Drawing on Style 2018

Page 1

D R AW I N G ON STYLE 2018



D R AW I N G O N S T Y L E 2018 Gray M.C.A . Gallery 8 . 8 Duke Street St James’s . London SW1Y 6BN 13 September 2018 Private View 6.00pm - 8.30pm 14 - 21 September 2018 10.00am - 6.30pm Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Christian Dior Artist-in-Residence Bil Donovan 17 September 2018 7.00pm - 9.00pm

In Partnership with The Courtauld Institute of Art

gallery@graymca.com . www.graymca.com GRAY M.C.A | 1


d

D R AW I N G O N S T Y L E 2018

Drawing on Style 2018 celebrates the masters of original fashion illustration from the twentieth century, alongside a select group of influential fashion artists working today.

As an art genre, fashion illustration is the interpretation of a look. It has its own unique sense of style, elegance & beauty that radiates from the paper. The artist develops their own individual artistic language, working with an innate understanding of balance, gesture, form & movement. Few words are needed to explain fashion illustration as the artworks literally speak for themselves. Fashion editors have repeatedly turned to illustration to highlight a new trend, even when photography was the far more fashionable medium of documenting fashion. Today, we see a resurgence of the genre as advertising & editorial increasingly commission fashion illustrators to illustrate the current trends. Drawing on Style 2018 includes many artworks originally published in the most influential fashion publications of their period including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar & The New York Times alongside the artworks of today’s contemporary artists.

Included in this year’s exhibition are the original artworks of three giants of the genre; the powerful early work from the estate of American artist Antonio Lopez – leader of the hedonistic New York fashion crowd who burst onto the scene in the late 60s & influenced both film & fashion. The iconic original drawings of René Gruau – the ultimate advertising man who’s work epitomised the elegance, sophistication & joie de vivre of the people & brands for whom he drew. And the formidable original artworks of Kenneth Paul Block, whose drawings are timeless in their sense of elegance, energy & stature. Block riveted all who knew him & he remains today one of the most influential fashion artists of all time. In addition, this year we see the beautiful drawings of Lorraine Alippe, an American fashion artist based in New York who worked quietly


throughout her career drawing for the department stores & fashion houses of 1950s America & Block’s contemporary Joe Eula, who was an integral part of the 1970s fashion sensation Halston & who portrayed fashion with a great sense of vibrancy & elegance. Bridging the divide between the masters of the twentieth century & todays contemporary masters is Colin McDowell, the grand master of fashion journalism whether it be through his time as chief fashion writer for The Sunday Times, as author of over twenty books on fashion or as a key spokesperson for young fashion designers through the foundation of Fashion Fringe. This year’s exhibition presents a collection of McDowell’s artworks that are his own private illustrative notes on the runway styles that he covered within his writing. These artworks have never been seen before & are as engaging & as masterful as any fashion illustrator working at the forefront of fashion documentation. There are also the exceptional & beautifully executed works of Bil Donovan, artist in residence to Christian Dior & a leading force in American fashion illustration working with the most influential names in fashion today. And the powerful, hugely atmospheric works of British artist Jason Brooks, who is a leading light of contemporary fashion illustration with his unique approach of interpreting fashion & lifestyle through a vivid combination of pen, ink & the digital platform for an international client base. Drawing on Style 2018 brings together all these artists & many more as a celebration of what makes fashion illustration a fascinating & critically important genre of art. Each artwork is unique & although they may have been commissioned for publication & seen by millions, the original artworks themselves are enormously rare & are the finest examples of Fine Art within the beautiful genre of fashion interpretation. Connie Gray – Exhibition Curator September 2018

GRAY M.C.A | 3


1

Lorraine Alippe (1930 - ) Model Seated, 1950s Ink, Wash & Gouache on Paper, 41 x 33 cms Lorraine Alippe Archive


2

Lorraine Alippe (1930 - ) Monte Sano & Pruzan, 1960 Mixed Media on Board, 40 x 29 cms Lorraine Alippe Archive

GRAY M.C.A | 5


3

Lorraine Alippe (1930 - ) Mink Collar & Sketch, 1950s Ink, Wash & Gouache on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, 56 x 37 cms Lorraine Alippe Archive


4

Lorraine Alippe (1930 - ) Mink Collar, 1950s Ink & Wash on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, 53 x 32 cms Lorraine Alippe Archive

GRAY M.C.A | 7


5

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Halston Cosmetics, Marker Pen & Pastel on Paper, 60 x 46 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation


6

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Evening Skirt & Jacket, Marker Pen & Wash on Paper, inscribed in margin, 46 x 34 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation

GRAY M.C.A | 9


7

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) 1980s Studio, Marker Pen & Wash on Paper, 58 x 46 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation


8

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Accessories, Marker Pen & Wash on Paper, inscribed in margin, Commissioned for Publication: The New York Post, 57 x 43 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation

GRAY M.C.A | 11


9

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Runway Walk, Marker Pen & Pastel on Paper, signed, 58 x 42 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation


10 Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Norma Kamali Swimwear, Marker Pen & Pastel on Paper, 58 x 48 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation

GRAY M.C.A | 13


11 Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Halston Summer Couture, Marker Pen & Wash on Paper, inscribed in margin, 52 x 33 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation


12 Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) White Winter Coat, Charcoal & Gouache on Paper, 58 x 48 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation

GRAY M.C.A | 15


13 Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Spring Summer Dress & Jacket, Marker Pen & Gouache on Paper, signed, 63 x 48 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation


14 Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) Drop Waist Cocktail Dress, 1984 Marker Pen & Gouache on Paper, signed & dated, 63 x 48 cms The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation

GRAY M.C.A | 17


15 John Galliano (1960 - ) Spring Summer 1991 Collection, 1990 Colour Printed Invitation on Felt, show details printed & inscribed verso, 64 x 44 cms


16 René Bouché (1905 – 1963) Evening Gown & Fur Stole, Watercolour on Paper, signed, 63 x 48 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 19


17 René Bouché (1905 – 1963) Givenchy, Live Sketch for Vogue, Givenchy Haute Couture Salon Paris, 1961 Ink & Pen on Paper, signed & inscribed, 60 x 46 cms


18 René Bouché (1905 – 1963) Sophia Loren, 1962 Charcoal on Paper, signed, dated & titled verso, 63 x 47 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 21


19 René Bouët-Willaumez (1900 – 1979) Paris Openings, US Vogue Front Cover, 1937 Ink & Gouache on Paper, signed, Published: US Vogue March 1937, 38 x 28 cms


20 Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson (1891 – 1958) The Pink of Perfection, Lucien Lelong, 1933 Gouache, Watercolour, Pastel & Pencil on Paper, inscribed, artist stamp & Vogue stamp verso, Published: US Vogue July 1933, 47 x 42 cms Jack Potter Private Collection

GRAY M.C.A | 23


21 Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson (1891 – 1958) Schiaparelli Fashions, The Skeleton & Pagan Dress, 1928 Gouache, Ink & Pen on Paper, signed, Published: French Vogue 1928, 66 x 49.5 cms


22 Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson (1891 – 1958) Winter Coat, 1948 Pencil, Gouache, Watercolour & Charcoal on Paper, signed, dated verso, 63 x 35 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 25


23 Joe Eula (1925 – 2004) 1950s Elegance, India Ink & Watercolour on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, 60 x 36 cms Joe Eula Estate


24 Joe Eula (1925 - 2004) Chiffon Evening Dress, India Ink on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, signed, 57 x 37 cms Joe Eula Estate

GRAY M.C.A | 27


25 Joe Eula (1925 – 2004) Anne Klein, Marker Pen & Pencil on Paper Laid on Board, signed, 61 x 45 cms Joe Eula Estate


26 Joe Eula (1925 – 2004) Evening Dress & Wrap, 1957 Graphite Pencil & Gouache on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, signed & dated, 66.5 x 101.5 cms Joe Eula Estate

GRAY M.C.A | 29


27 Joe Eula (1925 - 2004) Women by Eula, Original Artwork for Barone Gallery Exhibition Invitation, 1957 India Ink on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, signed, 56 x 43 cms Joe Eula Estate


28 Joe Eula (1925 - 2004) Pink Jacket, India Ink, Gouache, Watercolour & Pencil on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, signed, 56 x 40 cms Joe Eula Estate

GRAY M.C.A | 31


29 Fred Greenhill (1925 – 2007) Winter Jersey Dress, 1974 Ink & Gouache on Paper, signed, Commissioned by Lord & Taylor, Published: US Harper’s Bazaar December 1974, 44 x 28 cms


30 Fred Greenhill (1925 – 2007) Paris, 1974 Ink & Gouache on Paper, signed, Commissioned for Lord & Taylor Advertising, 31 x 20.5 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 33


31 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Traina-Norell Couture, 1949 Ink & Watercolour on paper, signed, Condé Nast stamp & artist stamp verso, Published: Condé Nast 1949, 44.5 x 33.5 cms


32 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Christian Dior, Ink & Pastel on Paper Laid on Conservation Board, signed & inscribed ‘Dior’ in margin, 39.5 x 31.5 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 35


33 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) International Textiles, Gouache on Paper, signed, inscribed & artist stamp verso, 36 x 28 cms


34 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Lèvres Rouge, Gouache on Paper, signed & artist stamp verso, 55.5 x 44.5 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 37


35 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Peak Hat, Gouache on Paper, signed & artist stamp verso, 32.5 x 25 cms


36 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Bemberg Textiles Milan, Gouache & Watercolour on Paper, signed & artist stamp verso, 43 x 31 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 39


37 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Snowfall, Gouache & Wash on Paper, signed & artist stamp verso, 40 x 30 cms


38 René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Jean Dessès Couture, 1957 Gouache on Paper, signed & inscribed verso, Published: French Vogue September 1957, 40 x 26 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 41


39 Yves Saint Laurent (1936 – 2008) Spring Summer 1977, Pencil & Ink on Paper, Published: The Daily Express January 1976, 32 x 12 cms


40 Karl Lagerfeld (1933 - ) ChloĂŠ Couture, Design Sketch I, 1979/80 Marker Pen & Ink on Paper, signed & inscribed, 40 x 29 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 43


41 Karl Lagerfeld (1933 - ) ChloĂŠ Couture, Design Sketch II, 1979/80 Marker Pen & Ink on Paper, signed & inscribed, 40 x 29 cms


42 Karl Lagerfeld (1933 - ) ChloĂŠ Couture, Design Sketch III, 1979/80 Marker Pen & Ink on Paper, signed & inscribed, 40 x 29 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 45


43 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) Now Nancy Now, 1974 Charcoal on Paper, signed & inscribed, 65 x 49 cms Nancy North Private Collection


44 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) Bloomingdale’s Fur Hats, 1981 Black Crayon on Paper, signed, 60 x 51 cms Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich, The Estate of Antonio Lopez

GRAY M.C.A | 47


45 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) New York Times I, 1963 Charcoal on Paper, signed, Commissioned for Publication: The New York Times Magazine, 92 x 50 cms Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich, The Estate of Antonio Lopez


46 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) New York Times II, 1963 Charcoal on Paper, signed, Commissioned for Publication: The New York Times Magazine, 87 x 49 cms Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich, The Estate of Antonio Lopez

GRAY M.C.A | 49


47 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) New York Times III, 1964 Charcoal, Watercolour & Wash on Paper, signed & dated, Commissioned for Publication: The New York Times Magazine, 80 x 40 cms Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich, The Estate of Antonio Lopez


48 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) New York Times IV, 1963 Charcoal on Paper, signed, Commissioned for Publication: The New York Times Magazine, 90 x 50 cms Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, Munich, The Estate of Antonio Lopez

GRAY M.C.A | 51


49 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) Variation 3, Daniel Hechter Fashion, 1967 Colour Pencil & Colour Overlay on Paper, signed, 60.5 x 48 cms


50 Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) Yellow Is Black, Daniel Hechter Fashion, 1967 Acrylic & Colour Overlay on Paper, signed, 61 x 43 cms

GRAY M.C.A | 53


51 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Evening Dress, 1980s India Ink on Paper, signed, 59 x 42 cms Colin McDowell Archive


52 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Long Skirt & Jacket, 1980s India Ink on Paper, signed, 59 x 42 cms Colin McDowell Archive

GRAY M.C.A | 55


53 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Long Blue Skirt & Jacket II, 1980s India Ink & Colour on Paper, signed, 59 x 42 cms Colin McDowell Archive


54 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Red Jacket, 1980s India Ink & Colour on Paper, signed, 59 x 42 cms Colin McDowell Archive

GRAY M.C.A | 57


55 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Evening Dress & Wrap, 1980s India Ink on Paper, signed, 34 x 24 cms Colin McDowell Archive


56 Colin McDowell (1936 - ) Skater Skirt, 1980s Watercolour on Paper, signed, 34 x 24 cms Colin McDowell Archive

GRAY M.C.A | 59


57 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Dior Robe Bustier, 2018 Acrylic & Pencil on Paper, signed, 38 x 25 cms Jason Brooks Studio


58 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Louis Vuitton Swimwear, 2018 Pencil & Japanese Ink on Paper, signed, 41.5 x 21.5 cms Jason Brooks Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 61


59 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Hood Profile, 2018 Acrylic on Paper, signed, 42 x 29.5 cms Jason Brooks Studio


60 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Blue Sunglasses, 2018 Pencil & Japanese Ink on Coloured Paper, signed, 25.5 x 35.5 cms Jason Brooks Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 63


61 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Fendi Floral, 2018 Fujiflex High Gloss Archival Monoprint, signed, 59 x 84 cms Jason Brooks Studio


62 Jason Brooks (1969 - ) Valentino Flowers, 2018 Fujiflex High Gloss Archival Monoprint, signed, 59 x 84 cms Jason Brooks Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 65


63 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Azzedine AlaĂŻa, 2018 Watercolour & Wash on Paper, signed, 39 x 29 cms Bil Donovan Studio


64 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Reds, 2018 Watercolour & Wash on Paper, signed, 39.5 x 20.5 cms Bil Donovan Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 67


65 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Schiaparelli, 2018 Watercolour & Wash on Paper, signed, 40 x 29 cms Bil Donovan Studio


66 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Antonio Grimaldi Couture, 2018 Watercolour, Pen & Wash on Paper, signed, 38 x 27 cms Bil Donovan Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 69


67 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Red Chic, Watercolour & Wash on Paper, signed, 37 x 30 cms Bil Donovan Studio


68 Bil Donovan (1953 - ) Ariele, 2018 Watercolour & Pastel on Paper, signed, 43 x 35 cms Bil Donovan Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 71


69 Lara MacKenzie Lee (1992 - ) Alexander McQueen AW18 I, Mixed Media on Paper, signed verso, 42 x 29.5 cms Lara MacKenzie Lee Studio


70 Lara MacKenzie Lee (1992 - ) Delpozo AW18, Mixed Media on Paper, signed verso, 42 x 29.5 cms Lara MacKenzie Lee Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 73


71 Lara MacKenzie Lee (1992 - ) Christian Dior Couture SS18 II, Mixed Media on Paper, signed verso, 42 x 29.5 cms Lara MacKenzie Lee Studio


72 Lara MacKenzie Lee (1992 - ) Prada AW18 I, Mixed Media on Paper, signed verso, 42 x 29.5 cms Lara MacKenzie Lee Studio

GRAY M.C.A | 75


Lorraine Alippe (1930 - ) American Lorraine Alippe spent her career as a fashion illustrator in New York having trained at Newark School of Fine & Industrial Arts in the 1940s. Her introduction to the established fashion illustrator Tod Draz (& his subsequent approval of her work) allowed her the confidence to pursue her dream. Among her many clients was the fashion store Goldring’s who had multiple stores throughout America in the 1950s & 60s. She was offered a number of projects away from New York but chose to remain in New York throughout her career & continues to live there today.

American designers including Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera & Calvin Klein. All were vividly aware of his critical appraisal once his pen & eye had interpreted their collections. Diana Vreeland, in her role as curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, New York, invited Block to illustrate the posters & exhibition literature of her celebrated fashion exhibitions. She appreciated his natural understanding of the world of ‘glamorous women in beautiful clothes’ like no other artist or photographer of the period.

Her quick elegant style was easily recognisable in newspapers across America & was beautifully adapted to illustrate each seasons collection’s including those of Christian Dior, Schiaparelli, Oleg Cassini, Arnold Scassi & Seymour Fox. She either worked from the studio with a house model or at the couture showrooms where she would be sent in an atmosphere of secrecy to sketch the collections prior to their launch at the beginning of each new season.

The poise & elegance of Block’s work together with the attitude & gesture underlines his unique position as a 20th century master of fashion illustration. His work is held in the permanent collections of numerous institutions including the Museum of Fine Art, Boston, the Frances Neady Collection of Fashion Illustration, New York, the V & A Museum & The Courtauld Institute, London. In 2016, The Kenneth Paul Block Foundation was established & is dedicated to the preservation & further appreciation, recognition & legacy of Block through international museum projects, lectures & education.

Kenneth Paul Block (1924 – 2009) American Kenneth Paul Block’s incisive yet graceful line influenced over half a century of style & made him an essential figure in the communication of American fashion. Each line he drew was swift to the point of hurried, yet no other 20th century illustrator could charge a work with such dynamic elegance & energy. He challenged perceptions of line & beauty in the creation of his drawings but this only made him more desirable to the adoring fashion crowd that followed his every stroke. Born in Larchmont, New York, Block trained at Parson’s School of Design before joining McCall’s Patterns for a short period. Here he found the atmosphere restrictive to his natural flair but one that allowed him to perfect the craft of ‘building’ an outfit. He swiftly went on to join the legendary trade paper & fashion bible Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) for whom he became chief features artist & later for W Magazine, both published by Fairchild Publications. His influence was legendary & was a key component in the success of many

René Bouché (1905 – 1963) American A celebrated portraitist & leader in the world of 20th century fashion illustration, René Bouché was appointed visiting lecturer at Parsons School of Design, New York in 1947 in recognition of his influence & standing as a master of the genre. Born in Prague, he moved to Berlin, Paris & finally New York at the onset of America joining World War II in 1941. Despite a lack of formal training, Bouché had an incomparable ability to capture with charm, whit, style & elegance the fashion of each season. He illustrated for Vogue & Harper’s Bazaar in Europe prior to his move to the US & continued to work with both publications (including many front covers) throughout his career. He was appointed chief advertising campaign illustrator for Saks Fifth Avenue & Elizabeth Arden in New York & produced a series of works for advertising campaigns

including Schweppes, Jaguar & Buick. He also created set designs & costumes for the Theatre Guild’s Child of Fortune in 1954 & the American Ballet Theatre’s Offenbach in the Underworld in 1956. As a master of social portraiture with a quick, intuitive yet penetrating style he was regularly invited to paint the portraits of the leading lights from the worlds of art, fashion, literature & politics including the Kennedy family (who nick named him Paintbrush), Truman Capote, Aldous Huxley & Sophia Loren. From the early 1950s, Condé Nast commissioned him to travel extensively abroad to capture the social & fashion trends in Europe each season. For a time, he became absorbed in abstract expressionism joining Motherwell, de Kooning & Pollock as a member of The Eight Street Avant-Garde Painters Club. He also provided numerous front covers for Time Magazine throughout his career. His final major commission was for a mural in the New York Hilton restaurant in 1962. Bouché’s work is held in public collections worldwide including the Whitney Museum & Museum of Modern Art, New York.

Jason Brooks (1969 - ) British Jason Brooks is a master of visual simplicity, placing him at the forefront of contemporary fashion & lifestyle illustration today. Since graduating from The Royal College of Art, London in the 1980s he has gained an international reputation for creating dramatic & bold visuals with his use of silhouette & line that are instantly recognisable. He is credited as being among the first to bring technology to the field of fashion illustration as early as the 1980s, although the foundation of his work lies in the skills of traditional & academic drawing & painting. His unique strength in the communication of a look can be enormously detailed in its execution, yet arrestingly simple in its final finished presentation. The glamorous & aspirational world of the imagination that Brooks presents in his work has attracted collaborations with a wide range of luxury & lifestyle brands


Joe Eula (1925 – 2004) American including most recently Vogue Japan, Lancôme, Revlon, Mercedes Benz, Virgin Atlantic, Veuve Clicquot, Ritz Hotels & Lucasfilm. Travel alongside fashion is a recurrent theme in his work & he is the author of a series of illustrated travel sketchbooks focusing on Paris, London & New York. New York Sketchbook & London Sketchbook were both finalists in the Victoria & Alberts Museum’s Book Illustration Awards, London Sketchbook winning the prestigious award in 2016. The V&A also holds an impressive collection of Brooks’ work in its permanent prints & drawings archive. His work has been selected to feature in a number of books including 100 Years of Fashion Illustration (Laurence King), Fashion Illustration Now (Thames & Hudson), Stylishly Drawn (Harry Abrams Inc.) & on the front cover of New Icons of Fashion Illustration (Laurence King).

Bil Donovan (1953 - ) American Donovan is America’s most important & respected contemporary fashion illustrator working today. As an artist, author & educator he has won great acclaim from both the worlds of Art & Fashion. Schooled in the finest traditions of fine art drawing, he works with swift fluid lines that capture the essence of elegance, proportion & gesture. The sense of spontaneity that he has uniquely mastered lends itself beautifully to fashion interpretation. He is a subscriber to the idea that less is more resulting in his images being the epitome of sophistication in a contemporary style. Following graduation from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York, Donovan has established lasting relationships with leading names in advertising, beauty, editorial & fashion including Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, The Costume Institute Metropolitan Museum of Art, The New York Times, The Washington Post, Luxure Magazine, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, Halston, St Regis Hotels & LVMH. In 2009 he was appointed Artist in Residence for Christian Dior, a role that he

continues today. He serves on the Executive Board of The Society of Illustrators, New York, chairs the Advisory Board for the Frances Neady Collection of Fashion Illustration & is a Professor of Illustration at both FIT & The School of Visual Arts, New York. His illustrations appear in numerous book publications including The Pursuit of Style for the Council of Fashion Designers of America, The Dress Doctor, Birds of a Feather Shop Together & most recently in 2018, Iris Apfel, The Accidental Icon published by Harper Collins.

Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson (1891 – 1958) American ‘Eric’ as he was known throughout his career, is recognised as the original & most influential fashion illustrator of the 20th century. He was the master from whom all other illustrators drew inspiration. He revolutionised the way that fashion was portrayed abandoning the stylised approach of the earlier illustrators. His fresh approach placed models in everyday situations & interiors making the couture more accessible & more importantly more desirable to the reader. He had a deep understanding of fashion, deploying an acute observation with an elegant line, loose brushwork & colour washes that achieved a great variation of line & a distinct seemingly spontaneous feel. His preferred medium was charcoal with light washes, a combination that he used to great effect. Born in Illinois, he attended the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts before joining Marshall Field’s & the renowned advertising agency Lord & Thomas. In 1916 he received his first commission from American Vogue. He continued to work for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar & all the leading publications in France, Britain & the US up until his death in 1958. His work & he himself were the personification of the elegant world in which he lived & worked. The Brooklyn Museum held a major retrospective of his work in 1959 & his works are held in museum & private collections worldwide including The Frances Neady Fashion Illustration Collection, New York & The Society of Illustrators permanent collection, New York.

A legendary fashion artist & costume designer from New York, Joe Eula was born in Norwalk, Connecticut entering into the world of fashion following military service in WWII for which he was awarded the Bronze Star. His dynamic impressionistic watercolours captured the essence of the latest fashion trends working with a freeness of line that expertly gave his drawings a sense of power with a light hearted elegance. His first commissions came from Town & Country magazine & Saks Fifth Avenue in the late 1940s & in the New York Herald Tribune under Eugenia Sheppard for which he illustrated her Inside Fashion column. He also worked in London with Ernestine Carter, fashion editor of The Sunday Times during the 1950s covering the European couture collections. He was a favoured house artist for Coco Chanel, Hubert de Givenchy, Gianni Versace, Christian Dior, Karl Lagerfeld & Yves St Laurent (for whom he was a personal friend as well as artist illustrating both his first collection in 1958 & last in 2002). His work could be seen regularly in The New York Times, American Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar & Life magazines. In the 1970s he was appointed Creative Director at Halston, a post he maintained for over 10 years. Eula was also an accomplished set & costume designer, working with the New York City Ballet under the direction of George Balanchine & Jerome Robbins & on Broadway shows including Noël Coward’s Private Lives that earned him a Tony Award in 1968. Later in the 1970s, he assisted Diana Vreeland, head of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. At the infamous Battle of Versailles in 1973 it was Eula’s swift & minimal designs for the staging of the American Designer’s sets that perfectly launched US Fashion onto the world stage like never before. His last work was published in The New York Times in 2003 shortly before he died.

GRAY M.C.A | 77


John Galliano (1960 - ) British

René Gruau (1909 – 2004) Italian

Galliano originally trained at Central St Martins, London in fashion illustration, graduating in 1984 with a first-class honours in Fashion Design. Amongst his teachers at St Martins was the renowned fashion journalist & academic Colin McDowell. His graduation collection ‘Les Incroyables’ was inspired by the French Revolution & the influences of the vibrant 1980s London club scene in which he played a central role. The collection was bought in its entirety by the London fashion boutique Browns & made him an instant sensation of British fashion. He designed under his own label for a number of years in both London & Paris before taking on the role as chief designer for Givenchy in 1995 & Dior from 1996 - 2011. He dramatically fell from grace in 2011 following a very public breakdown in Paris but has since joined Maison Margiela as creative director. Galliano has always been known for the exquisite attention to detail in his haute couture designs & his enormously flamboyant personal style both on & off the catwalk.

Gruau is undoubtedly the most recognisable fashion illustrator & commercial artist of his era. His arresting style was both simple & dramatic, using minimal lines to capture classic beauty, grace & sensual elegance. He drew on a number of artistic influences, particularly Japanese woodcuts & the work of ToulouseLautrec to illustrate for the most influential haute couture, advertising & magazine houses throughout his career. Instrumental in translating Christian Dior’s vision to a worldwide audience from the launch of the New Look in 1947 (for which he produced the now iconic image of the swan with black bow & string of pearls for Dior’s first perfume Miss Dior in 1947) through to his continued association with the label into the late 1990s, his power to influence was vast & reshaped the importance of marketing in the fashion industry forever.

Fred Greenhill (1925 – 2007) American Fred Greenhill was a greatly respected American fashion illustrator working throughout the 1960s & 70s in New York. His work appeared regularly in The New York Times, American Vogue & Harper’s Bazaar, most often for advertising features for Elizabeth Arden, Revlon, Estée Lauder, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus & Lord & Taylor. Born in Fort Worth, Texas, Greenhill studied Art & French at the University of Texas before serving in the army in World War II. On his return from the war he enrolled at Parsons School of Design, New York from where he was appointed primary illustrator for Saks Fifth Avenue. He was commissioned to create the immediately recognisable brand insignia for Lord & Taylor of the long stem rose in the 1970s. His works always emphasised grace & elegance using predominately charcoal & ink washes. In the tradition of ‘Eric’ he invariably positioned his models within a setting of elegant surroundings whether it be shopping, reading, or attending a party; a trademark that allowed the reader to immediately sympathise & relate to within their own lifestyle.

In his early career, Gruau worked for the French magazines Marie Claire, Femina & L’Album Du Figaro. In 1948 he moved to the United States to work for Harper’s Bazaar & Vogue & as exclusive artist for Flair magazine. A uniquely talented draftsman he was able to communicate a client’s vison with incomparable style. Amongst his most famous commissions was the cinema poster for La Dolce Vita in 1959, advertising artworks for Martini & the sensational advertising posters for Le Lido & Moulin Rouge in Paris. His work is held in museums internationally, including Le Louvre, Paris. A major retrospective of his work with Dior entitled Dior Illustrated was held at Somerset House, London in 2010.

Karl Lagerfeld (1933 - ) German The infamous fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld moved to Chloé in 1964 from Pierre Balmain & Jean Patou, becoming sole designer for Chloé in 1974. His vision brought the label to the forefront of couture & helped revolutionise the newly blossoming ready to wear trend. His designs introduced a sense of fantasy & exuberance that continues today. Under his direction, Chloé was to become one of the most symbolic labels of the 1970s & 80s. His runway shows during the 1980s were brought

to life in the most daring & provocative way possible & became the bench mark for fashion shows thereafter. His vision in reimagining Chanel in the 1980s turned the fortunes of the French haute couture label around, bringing it back into focus as a world leader in fashion couture. He continues in the role as creative director for Chanel today whilst also collaborating with Fendi & working with his own label, launched in 1984, Karl Lagerfeld. He has also collaborated on numerous projects in theatre, set & costume design, photography & interiors & was awarded the Couture Council Fashion Visionary Award from the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York in 2010 & the John B. Fairchild Award by WWD in 2017.

Yves Saint Laurent (1936 – 2008) French Yves Saint Laurent founded his couture label in 1961 having previously been with Christian Dior in the early 1950s. On the death of Christian Dior in 1957, Saint Laurent who at the time was just 21 years of age, was appointed artistic director at Dior & as a result became the world’s youngest couturier. He received international recognition with his debut collection for Dior in 1958 with the press calling him ‘the little prince of fashion’. But it was his later collections under his own label Yves Saint Laurent that included the ‘Mondrian’ collection in 1965 & the infamous dinner suit ‘Le Smoking’ in 1966 that sealed his name in fashion history forever. He is credited as being the first French couturier to launch a prêt-à-porter line with a view to democratise fashion in 1967 & was the first living designer to be honoured by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York with a solo exhibition in 1983. He was awarded Légion d’Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac in 2001.


Lara MacKenzie Lee (1992 - ) British Canadian Lara Mackenzie Lee is a fashion illustrator working in an entirely contemporary & unique style. Having studied Fashion Communication & Promotion at Central Saint Martins, London, her artwork focuses on the abstraction of colours & shapes to interpret & reinterpret a subject. Her eye allows her to deconstruct a runway look & focus on only the most essential elements to present a stunning interpretation using a combination of mediums including watercolour, ink & gouache. Lara has previously worked for Stella McCartney, Issey Miyake & Erdem & is an artistic contributor to SHOWstudio, London, having collaborated on a number of fashion illustration commissions & exhibitions including an artist residency for SHOWstudio, Fashion Flora, SHOWstudio, Moving Kate, The Mass Gallery, Tokyo & London & as an illustrator for Autumn/Winter 2017 Menswear London.

Antonio Lopez (1943 – 1987) American Lopez’s style is internationally recognised & his work considered to have been a driving force in placing American fashion at the forefront of the international fashion stage in the latter half of the 20th century. He electrified the fashion world with his work throughout the 1960s, 70s & 80s, bringing fashion to life by breathing creative genius into each one of his projects as well as being influential in introducing models of colour into the mainstream for the first time in the early 1970s. Influenced by life on the streets & clubs of New York, he worked with his lifelong creative partner Juan Ramos under the name ‘Antonio’ to huge acclaim in both fashion illustration or photography projects. In 1963, whilst still at The Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, Woman’s Wear Daily (WWD) recognised his immense talent & offered him his first position as a fashion illustrator prior to graduation. He continued to collaborate with WWD until his death in 1987. The New York Times, Elle magazine & Italian Vogue & Vanity (edited by Anna Piaggi) were all particular champions of his work throughout his career. In the 60s his illustrations inducted youth culture into magazines which helped set a new visual tone in fashion. In the 70s he lived & worked in

Paris. Here he introduced many facets of American pop culture to the French & was famously instrumental in launching the careers of Jerry Hall, Grace Jones, Jessica Lang & Pat Cleveland - the girls becoming known as ‘Antonio’s Girls’. The 80s saw intense colour & movement in his work that was as inspirational to the fashion designers themselves as the readers who religiously followed his projects. During the last few years of his life he devoted much of his time to education, lecturing & promoting fashion illustration. An important retrospective of his work entitled Antonio Lopez: Future Funk Fashion was held in New York at the El Museo del Barrio in 2016 & the film Antonio Lopez: Sex, Fashion & Disco was released in 2017.

Colin McDowell (1936 - ) British Colin McDowell is an acclaimed British fashion journalist, artist, academic & author. He is considered to be one of the most influential & internationally respected figures within the global fashion community. As Senior Fashion Writer for The Sunday Times for over 20 years, he has played an integral role in fashion reportage. In 2008, he was awarded an MBE by the Queen in recognition of his achievements. McDowell’s longstanding career in fashion included over ten years with the famed Italian couturier Pino Lancetti in a design capacity & also Laura Biagotti allowing him the unique position of being the only senior fashion commentator to understand the fashion industry from both sides of the runway. He has published over 20 books including the widelyacclaimed McDowell’s Directory of 20th Century Fashion. McDowell’s vast knowledge & appreciation of the fashion industry has been seen in several exhibitions that he has curated including in 2003 Manolo Blahnik at the Design Museum, London and Masters of Style at Somerset House, London in 2011. His fashion sketches are his own private illustrative notes on the runway styles that he covered & are both contemporary & timeless. His talent in communicating fashion through

both brush & ink are a remarkable dual conversation with his written word & are as masterful as any fashion illustrator working at the forefront of fashion documentation.

René Bouët-Willaumez (1900 – 1979) French Count René Bouët-Willaumez was born in Brittany, France. He studied engineering at L’Ecole Centrale though on arrival in Paris was drawn to a more artistic career path with the encouragement of former Editor of French Vogue Main Bocher (1922 – 1929). His work first appearing in French Vogue in 1929. He mastered his new craft with commendable speed & by the end of 1931 his work would be seen regularly in both Harper’s Bazaar & Vogue up until the 1950s when he retired. His preferred medium was ink & watercolour rather than pencil or charcoal to give a stronger outline, a style very like the illustrator Lee Erickson, wife of Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson, which led to a degree of tension & a period working predominantly for Vogue in London to clear the air. His drawings often had an inherent drama in the way they were presented yet each drawing always had a perfect sense of elegance, balance & a gentle dignity. His style presented work that could appear unfinished but this was an enviable trait of understanding the importance of leaving a certain amount to the reader’s imagination. He was an integral part of the famous ‘trio’ of 20th century illustrators made up of Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson (1891 – 1958), René Bouché (1903 – 1963) & himself; all of whom worked during the heyday of fashion illustration documenting each new season with their own defining style. There was a quiet competitiveness between the artists, particularly for front covers, whether it be in France, London or New York. Willaumez was based in New York for the duration of WWII & his work almost entirely disappeared from European Vogue’s from this time. Willaumez’s last work appeared in American Vogue in 1953. He was married three times to wellknown society figures & was considered whether in London, Paris or New York to be the quintessentially cultured French man of great charm.

GRAY M.C.A | 79


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS: Design & Print Shelleys The Printers UK

+44(0)1935 815364

Fashion Illustration Masterclass The Courtauld Institute of Art, London • www.courtauld.ac.uk Photography Richard Sainsbury UK Press & PR Purple PR London

+44(0)1823 272 828

www.purplepr.com

Published by Gray M.C.A

gallery@graymca.com

www.graymca.com

©All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photography, recording or any information storage & retrieval system, without prior permission from Gray M.C.A Ltd.


D R AW I N G O N S T Y L E 2018 BATH

Gray M.C.A . 5 Margaret’s Buildings . Bath BA1 2LP 8 October - 30 November 2018

gallery@graymca.com . +44 (0)1225 422 117 . www.graymca.com