1920sberlinerstyl 2

No. 2 - $L5 Reichsfennig

1920s BerlinerSTYL

HERBST/ WINTER MODE JOURNAL

1920s Berliner STYL Letter from the editor Cordelia Bellinghausen

Mir ist kühl. In my open-air office on the Strasse just outside the gateway to 1920s Berlin Project, it’s summer’s death; when light and shadow shift places like great actors on the stage.

Fashion follows suit with weightier fabrics and deeper, richer colors.

A dark mood descends.

Fashionable women aspire to look chic.

Cloche hats are pulled low over the eyes, and luxurious bits of fur grace slender shoulders.

2

Whether wearing an ermine-trimmed, or dyed rabbit fur collar and cuffs, every frau and fraulein know how indespensible these pelts are when the temperature drops and coal prices rise!

Regardless of social class; secretary and socialites wear tailored sportswear for day, and dressier looks for late afternoon and evening. The modern woman even adopts items from menswear - scandalous but very stylish!

This Herbst / Winter Mode Journal presents fashionable ensembles chosen with care to express the feeling of Weimar Berlin; a time when many are struggling to survive, but life goes on amidst a whirling cultural scene. It is a time ripe for both glitter and doom.

Join STYL Magazin in celebrating this new fashion season.

3

1920s Berliner STYL EDITOR IN CHIEF Zeno McAuley CREATIVE DIRECTOR Gstone Turas FASHION EDITOR Cordelia Bellinghausen COLUMNIST Dear Hildy EDITOR AT LARGE Padraica Yatsenko

PUBLISHER Gstone Turas Alexanderstrasse 4 - 1920s Berlin Project Sim

Published Semi-Annually as a Supplement to 1920s Berliner Post Newspaper

,

D ANKE FRAU JO YARDLEY Creator of 1920s Berlin Project Sim! W

e encourage our readers to visit 1920s Berlin Project Sim in Dudintsev.

It is this test sim which is featured here on the pages of STYL Magazin.

A

full-sized 1920s Berlin Metropolis is currently under construction, and with your help it will open soon.

P lease show your support by making donations at the meters, and by joining the group. http://www.1920sBerlin.com

1920s Berliner STYL HERBST UND WINTER 1929

IN THIS ISSUE

Straßenszene..................................................... 8 Büroarbeit...................................................... 20 Liebe Hildy......................................................24 Opiumhöhle....................................................28 Nacht leben.................................................... 34 Kampfklub...................................................... 40 heiße Schwestern............................................ 48 What’s Fashionable Now................................ 62 Accessorie Notes ............................................ 64 Styl Sprehen................................................. 66 Brigitte Helm Styl Revolutionary.................... 70

StraĂ&#x;enszene

9

10

11

12

Straßenszene

Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location on Feldstrasse in 1920s Berlin Project

Lillian in Cherries on Tan Dress by Mila Edelman Satin Flapper Shoes in Sage Green by Mila Edelman Available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) The Gem Cloche Hat by Bubbles Roxan Available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Anya Green handbag by Lelutka Available at Lelutka Mode (9,128,23) Green and Brown Plaid Dress by Pola Solo Available at Garconne, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Jazz Bakelite Jewelry Set Available at Eclectica, Sinaburoe (183,10,247) Flapper Shoes in Brown by Bettie’s Available at Bettie’s Vintage (167,115,28)

13

15

17

18

StraĂ&#x;enszene

Photographed by Gstone Turas on Location on Magdalenenstrasse in 1920s Berlin Project

Unisex Grey Tweed Coat by :: ? :: Unknown Available at :: ? :: Unknown Boutique, Shimokitazawa (57,107,17) Black Vicky Dress (skirt w glitch pants worn) by Artilleri Available at Artilleri (92,123,26) Green Feathered Cloche by Bubbles Roxan Available at The Millinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Umbrella by Mila Edelman Available at Old Time Prims Coal Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) Green Wool Coat with fur collar by Mila Edelman Available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Knit Hat with Flower by :: ? :: Unknown Available at :: ? :: Unknown Boutique, Shimokitazawa (57,107,17) Brown Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

19

B端roarbeit

21

22

Büroarbeit Photographed by Gstone Turas on Location in Newspaper Office in 1920s Berlin Project

Lulu Harvest Gold dress with Brown Dots; includes hat and gloves by Kembri Tomsen Available at The Curious Seamstress, The Carrington, Seraph City (188,137,106) Pearl Earrings by BB Clarice Available at Benty’s Beauty, Kensington (146,203, 72) Brown Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

23

Liebe Hildy, Everyone is always saying that hair is a woman’s glory, and that mine is so very fine and the prettiest thing about me, and that you should never cut it. But I am tired of brushing it one hundred strokes a night, and it so hot and bothersome in the summertime, and besides that, it’s 1929 and long hair is so old-fashioned. Can you think of any reason why I shouldn’t bob my hair like Lulu, I mean besides the fact that my father will never speak to me again?

Signed: Neue Fraulein on Schumann Allee

Dear Neue Fraulein I believe it is very unfair of your father to not speak to you again if you decide to bob your hair. Have you tried sitting him down and explaining to him your reasons for wanting to lop it all off?

Maybe make it known to him that the bob is very in right now and could help you find suitors.

24

This might appeal to his more logical side.You have to remember that the older generation does not generally understand the ways of the young. Make a good case for cutting your hair off and present it to him in a calm adult manner.

As for reasons why one might want to shorten their hair, well you have already mentioned a

few. It is easier to take care of indeed, looks much better with the latest fashions, its a statement that you are a modern woman and reflects your modern ideals.

In the end it is your hair and there for the decision is yours, but be careful of making a riff with your father that you might not be able to heal. Is a cute hair style worth the problems you might have to face?

that I am beginning to show the effects of age. Mother also says that it’s time I choose a beau, but why choose a beau when you’re having such fun and getting all the attention?

Let the other girls find their own admirers!

Signed: I never met an Herr I didn’t like

Dear Hildy:

Dear I never met an Herr,

I am the most popular girl in our circle and my dance card is always full. Just yesterday, Dietrich, Hanz, Adalbert, and Frederich all paid visits to my mother’s front parlor, bringing with them flowers, candies, cigars (for father),and poetry for me. This is my seventeenth year and although I don’t see anything wrong, Mother says

I completely understand the situation you are in. A girl of your age thrives on attention.

Luckily for you, we live in a time where a woman is allowed more freedom to choose who she wants to be, and who she wants to flirt and dance with. I believe that 17 is too young of an age to worry just yet about settling down, but I also want 25

Liebe Hildy, cont. to caution you against the possible bad effects of your actions.

You have to remember that these boys could have very real feelings for you, and while you are bouncing away at parties, many hearts could be breaking.

Make your intentions known to the young men. If all you want is to flirt and dance and have fun, then make them aware of that.

Do not trade real affection from one, for just “good times” with several others. In the end you can lose them all, for a woman’s beauty doesn’t last forever.

SEND YOUR LETTERS TO HILDY c/o Berliner STYL Alexanderstrasse 4 1920s Berlin Project 26

ART DECO Art Deco moved away from the soft pastels and organic forms of Art Nouveau and embraced influences from many different styles and movements of the early 20th century, including Neoclassical, Constructivism, Cubism, Modernism, and Futurism. Its popularity peaked in Europe during the Roaring Twenties.

Opiumhรถhle

29

31

32

Opiumhรถhle Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location in a Secret Opium Den somewhere in 1920s Berlin Project

China Blue Dragon Cheongsam by LD Available at LD, Mieville Victorian Steampunk Chinatown, (34,195,27) Blue Lantern Earrings by Tekeli-li Available at Tekeli-li!, Asunder (119,134,39) Gold Ballerinaschuch by La Luna Available at Dessous & More, Cydonia (99,77,36) Golden Dragon Coolie Peasant Ensemble includes Hat & Slippers by Grim Bros.

Available at Grim Bros., Clematis Island, (117,49,21) Gold Earrings by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) OPIUM DEN includes Wall Hangings, Beds, Floor Pillow, and Opium Dish w/ Wearable Opium Pipe by Jo Yardley Available at WEIMAR! Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) BEAUTY NOTES: Red Riding Hood Makeup Skin, by Grim Bros.

LuLu Hair No. 1, and No. 2 by Sonatta Morales 33

Nacht leben

35

37

38

Nacht leben

Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Der Keller Rooftop in 1920s Berlin Project

Alexander Platz deep red velvet skirt suit includes neckscarf and fur stole by Sonatta Morales Available at Sonatta Morales, Weird Couture, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Vamp red Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) Potsdamer Platz black and red dress with fur collar jacket, includes headpiece & gloves by Sonatta Morales Available at Sonatta Morales, Weird Couture, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Satin Flapper Shoes Black by Mila Edelman Available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500)

BEAUTY NOTES: On Redheaded Vita: Skin by Lelutka; Louise Bob Hair

by Curio, Curio On Aria Pobieski: Flapper Skin by Skinthesis, Hair included wih headpiece

by Sonatta Morales.

39

Kampfklub

41

43

45

46

Kampfklub

Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Neue Sporthalle in 1920s Berlin Project

Mirna Gown in Buff and Black by Kembri Tomsen Available at The Curious Seamstress, The Carrington, Seraph City (188,137,106) Cream Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) Jazz Bakelite Jewelry Set Available at Eclectica, Sinaburoe (183,10,247) Gold & Onyx Bracelet by Curio, Curio (128,128,37) Regents Gold and Red Art Deco Patterned Dress with Fur Trim

by Sonatta Morales Available at Sonatta Morales, Seraph City, (235,60,106) Triple Strand Pearls by Curio, Curio ((128,128,37) Coal Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) BEAUTY NOTES: On Bruised and Battered Vita: Acorn Battle Royal Shiner Skin by Curio, Curio; Auburn Georgina Hair by Mila Edelman, Old Time Prims On Platinum Blonde Aria; Flapper Skin by Skinthesis; Blonde Flapper Pin Curls by Skinthesis; Available at Live Your Dreams @ Skinthesis Ode (34,224,750) 47

heiĂ&#x;e Schwestern

49

51

53

55

57

59

heiĂ&#x;e Schwestern

Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Shuimus and Der Keller Tanzlokal in 1920s Berlin Project

Empire Black Tuxedo by Ray Linden Available at Midnight Passions (85,101401) Coal Eva Shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui Available at Nouveau (65,63,30) Geometric Crystal Chandelier Earrings by Paper Couture Water Over Wine Ring by Paper Couture Available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) White Tie and Tails Smoking Tuxedo by <Sartoria> Available at Sartoria Mainstore - Velvet (122,127,21) Deco Earrings by Donna Flora Available at Donna Flora - Bonin (152,151,37) Blue MaryJane Shoes by Evoke Available at Evoke,Vesta (51,88,21) DANKE Fraulein Sally Bowles Mein Herr Costume by Cartunno Couture Available at Cartunno Couture, Terric (211,87,21) Automobile Gorgon 1929 Tango Supersport Available at Gorgon Motors, Seraph City (118,166,106) 60

http://jazzbabyproductions.blogspot.com

61

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashionable Now ORIENTALISM.

The game of Mah Jongg has inspired the wearing of authentic oriental garb all over the western world. A set of 144 Mah Jong tiles consists of 36 tiles in the Bamboo suit, 36 in the Circle suit, 36 in the Character suit, 16 Wind tiles, 12 Dragon tiles and 8 bonus tiles (4 Flowers and 4 Seasons).

The best tiles are made from bamboo and ivory or bone and have beautiful hand-painted pictures representing the face of each tile. Traditionally, the Flowers, Seasons and the One of Bamboos come in for particular artistic creativity.

In STYL now are black lacquered hair colors, and hand fans like the beautiful metallic one at right painted with a pretty ďŹ&#x201A;apper admiring herself in the mirror.

62

63

ACCESSORIES of the 1920s OBJECTS:

Cigarette-holder, strings of pearls, large cocktail rings, jewelry, handbags, compact, gloves, cigarettecase and boa or fan made of plume feathers.,

HATS:

Cloche hats worn low over the brow, and for evening, turbans, silk head scarves tied with ends worn to one side, headbands embellished with embroidery, beadwork, and feather plumes. Hats with wide elliptical brims at the front and side, but brimless at the nape of the neck.

64

MAKE-UP:

Cosmetics are now popular: Red lipstick for the mouth, powder and rouge (a round splodge). Eyebrows were picked and a black line was drawn, green or blue eye-shadow, black eye-liner and fake eyelashes with a diamond were used.

SHOES:

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mary-Janeâ&#x20AC;? style with rounded-toe and cross strap or t-strap in leather and suede for day. Heel height is not more than two inches.

In the evening women wore evening shoes in silk and satin (dancing shoes). Heel height is low not more than two inches.

HAIR:

The styling was short hair bobbed hair- curled, or straight with bangs. All cuts are above the shoulder line, and most are above the chin-line.

65

1920s FASHION ACCESSORIES VOCABULARY English / German

66

STYL Sprechen FASHION VOCABULARY (1920-1930) English/German adjustable strap - verstellbaren Riemchen annèes folles - andere Bezeichnung für die 20er baggy - sackartig bell-shaped - glockig belt - Gürtel blouse - Bluse bobbed hair - Bubikopf button - Knopf calf - Waden coat - Mantel collar - Kragen corsets -Korsett cover - bedecken cuff -Manschette decade - Zeitraum embroidery - Strickarbeit 67

STYL Sprechen

CONT.

fur - Pelz glass pearls - Glasperlen low neckline - Decolletés material - Stoff petticoat - Unterrock silk-fibre - Seidenfransen skin - Haut strap -Träger tight-fitting - enganliegend tight - Strumpf to fall - fallen to flatten -flachdrücken to last - dauern upper part - Oberteil waist - Taille wool-combination - Baumwollkombination 68

a round splodge - runder Fleck bobble-hair - Bubikopf cigarette-case - Zigarrettenetui cigarette-holder - Zigarretenspitze compact - Puderdose fake eyelashes - falsche Wimpern fan-plum - Straußenfederfächer head-scarf - Kopftuch string of pearls - Perlenkette to pick- zupfen

SOURCES: Boucher, Francois: 20,000 Years of Fashion. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1966.

Seeling, Charlotte: Mode - das Jahrhundert der Designer. Köln: Könemann, 1999.

Lehnert, Gertrud: Schnellkurs Mode. Köln: Dumont, 1998.

69

BRIGITTE HELM Brigitte Helm, the German actress who defined the unobtainable, cool-eyed screen vamp is most famous for her role as the haunting teen-age star of Fritz Lang’s futuristic 1926 masterpiece, “Metropolis,” 70

71

She was the most sought-after actress of the glory days of the German Cinema, a tall blond beauty who starred in more than 35 films.

Fraulein Helm was the embodiment of the era’s ideal of cool sophistication. She turned down director Josef von Sternberg’s offer of the starring role in “Blue Angel,” so he had to settle for Marlene Dietrich.

The daughter of a Prussian Army officer who died when she was a toddler, Fraulein Helm is a native of Berlin whose original name was Eva Giesela Schittenheim.

SELECT FILMS INCLUDE: Metropolis, 1927 Alraune ten Brinken, 1928 L’argent 1928 Scandal in Baden-Baden, 1929 BRIGITTE HELM IS A STYL REVOLUTIONARY!

72

73