Kairos: Resurrecting Ellaville one coffee at a time

By Colby Hernandez, Staff Writer

For the last 15 or so years, there hasn’t been much to do in Ellaville. Recently, locals Peter and Moriah Horton opened Kairos PeMo’s Coffee Shop. So, as any good journalist does, I headed for Ellaville’s town square and tried what the townsfolk were referring to as the “Best Thing to Happen to Ellaville.”

As soon as you step in, you feel as if you have just come home after a long day. Kairos has a huge open-floor layout. The room is full of restored furniture and has a generally cozy atmosphere. Locals go there to hang out and have conversations, and the service is fast and friendly. There is even a side room that can be reserved for meetings, and you will often find a group of people having a Bible study there. Peter or Moriah will be at the counter, ready to take your order. I love a good iced vanilla latte, so that was the first thing I tried there. Their Boston Vanilla Latte is one of the best coffees in the state. I have had it served both iced and hot, and you will not regret either option. Their caramel macchiato is also amazing.

Caramel Macchiato.

Photo submitted by Kairos.

For those who prefer their coffee dark, they have many blends to choose from. From a weak decaf all the way to a heavily dark coffee, Kairos has you covered. In my interview with Peter, he told me about the Undertow. “If you can at least kind of stand espresso, come in and ask for an Undertow,” Peter said. “It’s kind of like an espresso shot. It goes hot espresso, then cold, and then sweet. It’s an experience. You must take it all in one shot. Even for people who don’t like coffee, it’s something you have to try. It’s just awesome.” This convinced me, reader, to undertake this challenge.

As the couple brewed this concoction, I noticed how well they worked together. The scent of espresso filled the air. They served it with a napkin and asked me if I was prepared. I will admit, this began to scare me. Why would I need a napkin, and why would they ask me if I was prepared? I swallowed my fears and put the drink to my lips. In one swallow, I conquered the beast. I felt each individual layer. You see, to make this drink, you have to have a layer of sweet cream of some sort, usually milk or half-and-half mixed with vanilla foam. On top of that is a layer of cold brew espresso with hot espresso on top. The first layer almost burns, as it is hot and pure espresso with nothing mixed in. Then the cold brew immediately follows. Nothing can mimic the feeling of relief that comes from the sweet foam replacing the bitter taste of espresso. I urge everyone to try this rollercoaster of coffee shop bliss at least once in their lives. But enough about my experience—what makes Kairos more popular than other hangout spots in Ellaville?

“I don’t think it’s necessarily that our business does it better,” Peter explained. “We love the other businesses here. I think what makes us stand out is that we love coffee culture. My wife [Moriah] has been a barista, and we’ve taken a lot of that culture and put it in Ellaville. It’s something that just hasn’t been here, or really anywhere in South Georgia, when it comes to other coffee shops. We’re trying to bring that here and have other people be able to experience that coffee community. When you go to a restaurant, you sit down and eat. Nobody is really thinking about staying there and hanging out there. When I go to a restaurant, I don’t know who’s serving me. I don’t get to know the people who I’m ordering from, but coffee is different. It’s community; it’s family. We know our customers. Even if you don’t order anything, you just want to be there.”

Undertow.

Photo submitted by Kairos.

Perhaps another answer is that the coffee shop is new, having opened in February 2023. Many may argue that Kairos is just a fad that will run its course. But I disagree. Not a day goes by that the parking lot isn’t full, especially in the mornings. Most Ellavillians, especially those who remember the Ellaville of the 1990s and further back, agree that Kairos will only bring positive change and encourage growth in the long-dwindling city.

Kairos only wants to bring positive change to the small town. “On Monday, Wednesday, and Friday nights at 7, we have what we call ‘Jesus Nights,’” Peter said. “It’s the reason we started the coffee shop in the first place. We wanted a place people could come and talk. We go out and we do community outreach. But it’s always after the coffee shop closes. There’s just a group of us who wanted to go after the Lord together.”

Finally, I wanted to know how Kairos benefits GSW students and why they should choose to make the small trip to Ellaville. “There’s nothing really to do in Ellaville or Americus,” Peter explained. “Every coffee shop is different in their own way. Cafe Campesino, they’re going to do things we can’t do, because they’re a bigger name. Starbucks doesn’t have the same atmosphere specialty coffee shops have. But they are doing great for what they do. But for GSW students, which I knew when I was in college, there was nothing to do anywhere. But we offer our space. We have Wi-Fi, we have a lot of room, we have a separate room where people can come and hangout or work on homework. We’re one of the only places you can do that. Our biggest draw is just community. Come here, hang out, get to know me and Moriah, and have some good coffee while you do it.”

Kairos is located at 28 E Church St, Ellaville, GA 31806, open 5:30AM-5PM Monday through Friday, 9AM-5PM Saturday. Closed on Sundays.

Chicken Bacon Full House Salad.

Photo submitted by Kairos.