Blue Water Sailing Fall 2019

FALL BOAT SHOW PREVIEW

Fa l l 2 0 1 9

WORLD CRUISING

MAHINA TIARE : ANTIGUA TO PANAMA WHAT WORKED, WHAT DIDN’T

12 YEARS OF CRUISING

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22 22 Bluewater Adventure

FALL 2019

Mahina Tiare: Antigua to Panama Mahina Expeditions offers true offshore experience for budding cruisers on passages all over the world. Here we catch up with Mahina Tiare, John and Amanda’s Hallberg Rassy 46, on the leg from Antigua to Panama in December 2017

by John Neal

34 Blue Water Boats

Annual Fall Boat Show Preview

by BWS staff

28 28 Living Aboard

What Worked, What Didn’t After Year 12 Twelve years in their circumnavigation, the authors offer their expert view of what products aboard their boat they can recommend, or not

by Patrick and Rebecca Childress

DEPARTMENTS 4

6 8 38 42 51 52

Cover photo: The new Outbound enjoying a sail on the Chresapeake

Captain’s Log Blue Water Dispatches Chandlery World Sailing Adventures Brokerage Classifieds

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{ CAPTAIN’SLOG }

BLUE WATER

The Urge for Goin’

W

hen the end of summer rolls around and we start getting the cooler nights and longer shadows of fall, I always feel that familiar urge to get the boat ready, untie the lines and head south toward the sun and new adventures. It’s that old urge for goin’.

We’ve followed that urge several times over the years with winter trips to the Caribbean, Bahamas, Florida and once we kept on following the sun right around the world. But we’re not going to get away this winter by boat. We’ll head south by jet and sail OPBs – other people’s boats. Its still ”away” but not the same.

For those who do want to sail south this fall, there are some great ways to do so with friends in the various rallies that are on offer. On the East Coast, there are three that have been running for years. There’s the North Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (NARC) that starts in Newport, RI and visits Bermuda on its way south to St. Martin. This a free and casual rally that offers weather forecasts and attracts a handful of boats each year.

The Caribbean 1500 sails from the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay to the BVI. It’s a commercial rally run by the British World Cruising Club and is known for its high fees and somewhat stuffy management. The rally usually gets about 25 boats. They offer daily weather updates but no individual routing.

The most popular East Coast to the Caribbean Rally by far is the Salty Dawn Rally that BWS sponsors and helped to create. It is run by a not-for profit organization called the Salty Dawg Sailing Association that fosters seamanship, camaraderie and a number of offshore rallies. The fall rally usually has 70 to 90 boats and provides excellent weather forecasting and individual routing by veteran Chris Parker. It sails from Hampton, VA to Antigua. The fee to join the rally is modest and the events that the volunteers put on are on a pay as you go basis.

Since 2017, the rally has made its destination at the rally’s end the island of Antigua which many consider the sailing and cruising capital of the Caribbean. The volunteer SDR staff has arranged for a range of fun events in Antigua for the boats that arrive there, which is a great way for cruisers to get into the swing of what island life and island time are all about. Ralliers make a lot of new friends during the rally and know they will bump into their fellow Salty Dawgs as they cruise the islands.

On the West Coast, the Baja HaHa is a huge rally that runs from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas every fall. They often get 200 boats and the parties are legendary. The rally was founded by Latitude 38 magazine and has a very laid back and fun ambience.

So, if you have the urge for going, there are ways you can do so with your fellow cruisers and make the whole experience safer, more collegial and more fun.

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photo by Bill Kund

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he Virgin Islands suffered two direct Category 5 hurricanes within 13 days in September 2017.

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At the end of August 2017, Skip and Andrea were in their annual offseason mode. The 15 Island Packets they manage in their fleet for the boats’ owners, were in the Independent Boat Yard, hauled out and going through the annual maintenance and repair routine. IYC was celebrating it’s 40th anniversary so the King’s were headed to the States for the Newport and Annapolis boat shows; they were planning to celebrate the anniversary with a big party in Annapolis. Andrea flew out on August 28 to visit her family in Massachusetts and Skip flew out the next day to Maryland.

On September 3, they saw the early forecasts for hurricane Irma to track right through the Virgin Island. It looked ominous. On the 5th, Skip drove through the night to Massachusetts so the couple could watch the disaster unfold together in their

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facilities to start repairs. They didn’t even know if their home was still standing.

Skip finally made a plan to fly to Puerto Rico, which had been largely spared by Irma, and was just about to depart when the news that a second Cat 5 hurricane was on track to strike the Virgin and Spanish Virgin Islands. Just 13 days after Irma, Maria struck the islands with the full force of a Cat

island home. “After the storm hit,” Andrea said, “we could not reach anyone on the island for days. All phone, electricity and internet services were gone.”

Finally, the Kings got word from an employee in Red Hook who reported that nearly every boat in the boat yard had been blown over, many had jack stands right through their hulls and five of the boats were dismasted. There was little they could do in the immediate aftermath. No flights were landing in the islands and there were no

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nicate with their charter boat owners and customers and begin to coordinate the start of the recovery. At the end of September, the Kings had to lay off their staff of six loyal employees.

PICKING UP THE PIECES

5 hurricane and rolled right over Puerto Rico as well. All hope of getting back to St. Thomas quickly was dashed.

It would be three full weeks

before Skip could fly to St. Thomas on the first commercial flight to land there. Andrea and their daughter Grace remained in the States where she could commu-

In St. Thomas, Skip found his life and his business upside down and broken into a million pieces. Without electricity or phone, he and two IYC staff started to assess the damage for the insurance company and began the long arduous job of salvaging whatever could be saved, while they waited for the boat yard’s crane to arrive.

In early October, Andrea worked the Annapolis Sailboat

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Show with Island Packet’s new owners Darall and Leslie Allen. “I was in a fog,” she said, “still shell shocked by the destruction of our business and the daunting recovery process that lay ahead.”

Yet, she still managed to host the IYC 40th Anniversary Party that was attended by 45 of their owners, customers, vendors and sailing industry friends. This core group of supporters were the foundation of what would be the long road to recovery.

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While in Annapolis, the Allens agreed to provide full factory support as the Kings set out to manage the repair of their 15 damaged vessels. ICY’s insurance company gave the plan the green light and all of the boat owners were informed; all were delighted with the solution. Lastly, Andrea arranged for Joule Transport, the company that moves Island Packets in Florida and around the country, to store the boats once they had been shipped to the States from St.

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Thomas.

In November, the boatyard secured the crane they needed and one by one the IYC boats were righted and placed in their pop stands. In December, a crew from IPY flew to St. Thomas to help Skip and the insurance company perform the triage on the 15 boats.

It was decided that six boats would be shipped to the IPY factory and six would be repaired in St. Thomas by IPY teams flown in to perform the factory backed repairs.

Skip would handle the non-factory repairs, rerigging and commissioning tasks. Three of the boats were deemed total losses.

Andrea and Grace flew back to St. Thomas on December 3 and on the day after Christmas the electricity in their island home Fall 2019

was turned back on. By April 2018, the six boats that were being shipped to the IPY factory had been patched, loaded on a ship and sent on their way. Seven months after Irma and then Maria turned their lives upside down, Skip and Andrea were beginning to pick up the pieces.

“Down here,” Andrea noted, “the locals have begun calling the storms by one name since they came so close together. We call it “Irmaria”.”

FLASH FORWARD

As Skip and Andrea were going through the beginning processes of assessing damage to their boats and their business, it became clear that there would be no charter business in the Islands right 17

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through the end of 2018. Starting in November 2017, Andrea contacted all of the customers with bookings and offered either a refund or the opportunity to rebook their charters for 2019 and 2020.

Of the 70 charters on the books, only 10 decided to take the refund.

“The remaining 60,” Andrea said, “are our amazing customers who hung in there with us and are our loyal and devoted repeat guests who sail with IYC repeatedly.”

By January 2019, IYC had five Island Packets up and running and serving their charter guests. By February a sixth boat, an IP465, joined the fleet. Now, as the fall 2019 charter season is set to begin in the Virgin Islands, they 18

have eight boats operating in the fleet with four more nearing the completion of repairs. Plus, Andrea is hopeful that they will add a few new boats to the fleet to get them back up to the 15 they had under management before Irmaria struck.

Island Yacht Charters has been an Island Packet dealer since 1995 and sells and manages boats for their owners out of their newly renovated base in Red Hook, St. Thomas.

“As of today,” Andrea said, “we have one full-time employee back with us, our lead mechanic Wolf Vincent, who we could not have survived without. We also have Chuck Schweikert, a close friend and capable shipwright, who owns BLUE WATER SAILING

Sailmark Design in St. Thomas. They were both with Skip through the salvage phase. We have two parttime cleaning ladies as well as Skip and me running the show and picking up all the pieces. With few employees, it has been nice to be more hands on again and doing all the little things on the boats to make them extra-special for our guests.�

You can reach Skip and Andrea King, who are very much back in business, via their website www. ipc.vi. BWS

Fall 2019

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Mahina Tiare Antigua to Panama Mahina Expeditions offers true offshore experience for budding cruisers on passages all over the world. Here we catch up with Mahina Tiare, John and Amanda’s Hallberg Rassy 46, on the leg from Antigua to Panama in December 2017 by John Neal

I

n 2015, upon reading two rave reviews of the new IGY Marina Santa Marta, Colombia, in Yachting World magazine, I checked out their website and contacted them hoping to stop there on our Panama-toBVI passage. Everything sounded perfect, except the fact that the marina said it would take at least 22

three days to clear in and three days to clear out. A six-day stop would not have allowed enough time to complete our planned two-week expedition.

Two weeks ago, I received an email from Jon and Mia, previous boat purchase consultation clients from Norway and Mallorca whom we’d met in Sweden, mentioning they were presently at Marina Santa Marta. I asked Jon if he could speak with the marina manager to see if there was any possibility we could stop just for one night. Jon replied that Kelly Gonzales, the totally switched-on front desk manager, had suggested

we could stop, but not clear customs. I clarified that with Kelly, and that’s exactly what we did.

SANTA MARTA, COLOMBIA

With a contrary current of up to 1.8 knots, we had to push to arrive Tuesday night before dark.

Our recent Admiralty paper chart and C-Map charts showed only an anchorage where the marina had recently been built, but the new Navionics electronic chart showed the breakwater labeled “Works in Progress”. The marina shares the bay with a compact and denselypacked commercial harbor, owned by the same visionary who built the marina.

It took several calls on VHF channel 72 before the dock master replied, directing us to a slip not far BLUE WATER SAILING

from the entrance. He motioned for us to back in, something that would have been nearly impossible without a bow thruster, owing to the beam-on winds and impressive surge that had all the boats jerking and tugging on their dock lines.

Once Mahina Tiare was secure with six dock lines, I ran up to the office, catching Kelly before she went home. It appeared she was the only one in the office who spoke English, and she explained that Colombian law allows visiting vessels to stop for up to 72 hours without clearing customs if they only require fuel, water or provisions, something we’ve never heard of in any other country. She copied our ship’s registration, my passport, our outbound Montserrat clearance and scanned each of our crew member’s index finger which allowed entry to the docks, showers, laundry and air-conditioned crew lounge.

Kelly also gave us maps of the city and recommended Donde Chucho, a nearby fish restaurant which proved exceptional. We were seated in a courtyard off the historic city plaza and the food and fresh-squeezed fruit drinks were fabulous and ridiculously inexpensive. Lin found a nearby gelato place for dessert and Brian and Tami were able navigators, leading us on a little walking tour.

Santa Marta, the oldest city in Latin America, having a population of 650,000 (hard to believe) reminded us of a cross between a Mexican and Spanish port town.

Fall 2019

Tourism is new to the city and most visitors were Colombian, here to enjoy the beach.

We all visited Jon, Mia and sixyear old son Teo aboard their Hallberg-Rassy 39 Itchy Foot, delighting in their stories of the week they had just spent exploring the Amazon while based at a small ecolodge. Rich, along with Karen and Lin, had been considering an HR 39 for extended cruising, so they were eager to check out Itchy Foot and quiz Jon and Mia as to how the design and size has worked out in their first year of cruising since departing Mallorca. We also met cruisers from many countries and our crew were also invited aboard a Pacific Seacraft 37 that we had passed before arrival.

Yesterday everyone took off exploring early, returning for engine room orientation at 1330 after which we set sail for Panama’s San Blas Islands. Just minutes after

leaving the marina, we found 18to-25 kt NE trade winds which hadn’t diminished at all. With 290 miles to cover and a very tricky landfall surrounded by coral reefs (where we ran aground once) and a 1-to-2 kt contrary current, we’ve been pushing a bit, with boat speeds periodically nudging 10 kts.

SAN BLAS

Our first full day after leaving Santa Marta our crew had good practice reefing and unreefing as we reeled off the miles toward the San Blas Islands. By 1100 someone yelled, “Land HO!” and a little after noon we entered Swimming Pool Anchorage, near Calubir Island, East Hollades Cays, one of the most famous anchorages (and an excellent choice for landfall) in the San Blas. We found eight yachts anchored, many flying the Italian flag.

Within minutes of anchoring

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everyone dove in and just after lunch a Kuna canoe pulled up – it was the unmistakable “Lisa Harris” (we don’t know her kuna name), the famous transvestite kuna mola seamstress whom we’ve visited with on each of our five previous visits to Kuna Yala. Lisa said times were tough and the competition for selling molas (reverse-appliqued fabric art) to yachties was fierce especially as several island’s traditional owners were charging her a commission for selling molas to yachts anchored off “their” islands.

What an amazing night we en-

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joyed – zillions of stars, the twinkling of a handful of anchor lights across the bay and no night watches! I think we all slept like babies.

At 0630 before the morning heated up Amanda led rig check aloft class then we set off on a brilliant broad reach for 12 miles to Mormake Tupu, (also known as Isla Maquina) the tiny island we’ve been bringing school books and supplies plus reading glasses to since 2000.

By the time our anchor was down we saw our friend, Venancio Restrapu climbing in his powered canoe and heading our way with

two five-gallon pails tightly packed with molas. Our crew purchased several stunning pieces and Venancio said we were welcome to visit ashore but many of the village members were at the next island celebrating a double hair-cutting (coming of age) ceremony.

Once we landed, we visited with some of Venancio’s family members then went to the congress (village meeting hut) to pay our regards and give the required small bag of rice to the sayla, or village chief. We then toured the village, helping women figure out which reading glasses would best serve them for sewing along with admiring and buying molas that had been quickly pinned to doors and outside walls.

We had just enough daylight left to make it to nearby Gaigar anchorage, which is protected by mangroves. Surprisingly, a family from a distant island has built a tiny islet near the entrance of the bay, totally surrounded by water.

We paid a visit ashore, bringing a bag of rice plus some apples and a book of stickers for the only child.

Sunday morning Amanda pulled out our Sailrite sewing machine to teach sail repair before we headed upwind to an unnamed anchorage that we had previously labeled, “BREAD MAN”.

We’d never seen more than one other yacht at this semi-exposed anchorage, so you can imagine our surprise when we spotted 28 anchored yachts, most flying Italian flags. After anchoring, we spoke with the crew of an HR 48 who said the two or three boats in the anchorage with German or French flags were actually also Italians, doing some kind of tax dodge with their flag of registry.

After landing ashore and purchasing some tasty kuna bread, we BLUE WATER SAILING

wove our way through the coral to a long-time favorite anchorage of ours off Yansadar Island in Cayos Chichime. Shortly after anchoring, a lovely kuna mother with three children paddled out to show her molas. We purchased molas and winis (small strung beads that the women wear on their arms and legs) and gave her rice, onions and apples. She wished us Feliz Navidad and invited us ashore to their tiny one-hut island which we enjoyed visiting just before sunset.

Situated only a few hundred meters from the outer reef, the booming surf was impressive and seaward on the inner reef two kite surfers were zipping back and forth relishing the constant trade winds.

Not wanting to enter our next coastal anchorage of Portobelo in the dark, we got an early start Monday morning to smartly cover the 60 miles. We enjoyed some very fast downwind sailing in the large breaking seas passing a Beneteau Clipper 400 that was being very impressively steered by a Hydrovane steering gear. Thanks to the strong winds and somewhat weaker contrary current, we arrived in Portobelo at 1500, three hours before sunset.

The first impression was of a multitude of shipwrecked yachts upon every shore; some on the beach with sails still furled, some washed well ashore, and several with only their mast showing above water. Our landing spot was Casa Vela, (House of Sails), a beer and pizza joint owned by a couple of German cruisers whom we’d met on previous visits. They shared that although Panama has always been considered to lie well outside the hurricane belt, last year a passing hurricane had pummeled the bay from the west, the only direction not protected by Summer 2019

land; 13 of the 16 boats moored or anchored in the bay either sunk or landed ashore and the waves crashed through the Casa.

We all wandered about town visiting the “Black Christ” statue in the cathedral, the numerous forts built to protect the vast amounts of silver and gold passing through the Spanish counting house (still being restored) by the likes of Henry Morgan and checked out the three quintessential Chinese stores.

Tuesday morning, after three of us enjoyed a shoreline run to ruins of another cannoned fortress, we set sail for Colon, the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal.

Although light at the beginning, the wind filled in providing a great final sail. The closer we got to the canal entrance, the more ships we could see, both on the move and anchored mostly waiting to be called to enter the crowded harbor.

When we were 1.3 miles from the breakwater entrance, a yacht called Cristobal Control, asking for permission to enter the channel.

The port controller, who sounded as busy as an air traffic controller at a busy airport, replied asking if the vessel hailing him was Mahina Tiare, as he’d been following their AIS signal. The yacht replied that it wasn’t their name and after giving

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their details they were given permission to carefully enter between the ships.

I immediately called Cristobal Control, also asking permission to enter and proceed to Shelter Bay Marina and we were given discretion to enter when we felt it was safe. We then quickly jibed and slipped between a fast-moving outgoing ship, passing through the breakwater at an angle and safely ahead of a large incoming freighter.

Once inside the breakwater we sailed along parallel to the breakwater for a mile or so, dropping sail just before entering the narrow channel to the marina. Tami was nervous, but did an excellent job piloting us nearly to our berth.

John Halley, Shelter Bay Marina’s dock master/marina manager, is Superman – working tirelessly to accommodate the many needs

26

of the visiting yachts, from mega yachts to the smallest cruisers.

He gave us clear directions to slip C-34, then was on the finger pontoon, waving us in and eagerly helping secure our lines, complete with additional volunteers.

After checking in with the marina, Tina McBride (our canal agent) had Rudy (her local representative) and Rico (his driver) meet us on the dock to whisk me away to customs. Well, “whisk” might be a bit of a generous term. Shelter Bay is located across the canal on the sight of Fort Sherman, a former U.S .special forces training facility, now used by the Panamanian defense force. In order to cross the canal, one must either take a free ferry run by the ACP (canal authority) or wait until there is a break in ship traffic and drive across the top of one of the lock gates. It took

nearly an hour to get to Colon.

Rudy then worked for hours getting us checked in with customs. It was very comical, but in the end we were checked in and crew were signed off. Rudy explained that the next step would be to get our cruising permit issued (which he said could take as little as three hours or as long as 1-2 days) and then immigration visas for Amanda and me plus our two crew who were staying longer than 72 hours in Panama. As those two offices were then closed, we headed back to the marina.

Our generous crew treated us to an excellent dinner in the marina that night complete with delicious desserts and while they packed up and cleaned the boat Wednesday morning, Rudy took Amanda and me, plus Tami and Brian, to immigration to apply for our visas

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RESOURCES USED ON THE PASSAGE FROM ANTIGUA TO PANAMA:

– but first – we had to go to a passport photo shop for visa photos!

It was 1520 by the time we returned to the marina with just enough time for Rico to take Karen and Lin to the airport, two hours away.

All of the sudden, Mahina Tiare was quiet and we could catch our breath.

Today the canal authority admeasurer arrived, inspecting our cleats and vessel seaworthiness before telling us he would love to build a boat and sail the Panamanian waters with his wife and son. He was very pleased to hear it had taken Amanda’s parents and her just two years to build Swanhaven their 50-foot Bruce Roberts ketch and only one year to build their Swanhaven II their 39-foot sloop.

The rest of today has been gobbled up with minor repairs and cleaning. Amanda had provisioned brilliantly in Antigua and Santa Marta and we’re now down to three carrots, four apples, a few onions and cabbage...somehow there’s always cabbage, it’s Amanda’s back up veg. I’d planned on dinner at the marina restaurant tonight but they were closed for their staff Christmas party and although there’s a mini mart in the marina it mainly sells drinks.

So, with Christmas around the corner we’re heading to Colon with Rico in the morning for our first grocery run. We’ll be here for Christmas and have seen posters encouraging all to join in for a Christmas Day potluck and carol singing. BWS John Neal and Amanda Swan Near founded and run Mahina Expeditions. Every year they spend seven months or more taking crew on extensive offshore expeditions while providing in-depth instruction on all thing to do with sailing, seamanship, boat care, navigation and much more. www.mahina.com Fall 2019

Wind & Weather: www.windy.com Cruising Guides: The Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus is brilliant and some of the Italians we met said all of the charts from this book are now available on line.

Electronic Charts: C-Map running on Rose Point Coastal Explorer Navionics Silver running on both our lovely new Raymarine MFD’s (multi-function displays). We purchased the latest Central & South America portfolio in Antigua and have been impressed with the accuracy, and considerably more detail than on C-Map charts.

General Sailing Conditions: The passages from Antigua to Colombia and Panama are all generally broad reaching or running this time of year when the “Christmas Trade Winds” are just starting to crank. We experienced more moderate conditions this year compared to our two previous crossings in 2002 and 2008. A current of .5 to 2 knots runs contrary to the course approaching Colombia and for most of the way to the San Blas, Portobelo and to Colon.

General Anchoring Conditions: All of these areas have mostly sand bottoms with some coral and grass.

Customs Clearance: www.noonsite.com has good information. If planning on spending some time in the San Blas before coming to Colon to check in, it is possible to gain clearance in Porvenir, San Blas Islands.

OUR CARIBBEAN CREW Rich, 40 years old, and a physician from Utah. Twenty years ago, I sailed with my father up Sweden’s beautiful west coast on his old, but sturdy HR Monsun 31. I look back at this time as one of my most cherished and formative experiences of my life and I have had a passion for sailing ever since. Currently my wife and I love sailing together and have chartered in Croatia, California, the BVI and we recently returned to Sweden and sailed out of Gothenburg. We have a baby girl on the way and we hope to one day soon cruise the world as a family. We don’t have a middle name picked out, but after this amazing experience with John and Amanda I’m leaning toward the name Tiare!

Brian, 48 and a physician from Michigan. Growing up in Michigan, I was surrounded by boats and was fascinated by sailboats from an early age. I have dreams of sailing away to exotic locations and joined this expedition to see if my dreams are realistic and achievable as well as to gain the necessary skills. I previously spent five years as a flight surgeon in the USAF where I earned my pilot’s license and gained navigational skills.

Tami, 48 and an accountant. My husband Brian introduced me to sailing and we’ve chartered several times on the Great Lakes and were ready to expand our experience. This leg has given us a very broad experience base.

Ken, 47, and an orthopedic surgeon from Anchorage, Alaska. My cruising goals are to sail widely throughout the globe and I joined this expedition to advance my skills. I began sailing two years ago and have mostly chartered around the San Juan Islands of Washington.

Karen, 60 and a systems engineer. I grew up in Southern California water skiing, fishing and sailing small sailboats. During college in Navy ROTC I learned navigation and seamanship. After serving as a naval officer and raising our family fishing, skiing and tubing, my husband Linwood and I took ASA 104 in the Abacos and discovered we love sailing! We are delighted to be learning and exploring together!

Linwood, 61. Originally from coastal North Carolina, I’ve been an avid boater all my life, but had never sailed before. Karen and I took lessons on our 35th anniversary in the Abacos and we were hooked! We’ve lived around water most of our lives and now live in the DC metro area. We enjoy fishing on the Chesapeake Bay aboard our 30-foot Grady White, Field Office.

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Twelve years in their circumnavigation, the authors offer their expert view of what products aboard their boat they can recommend, or not

by Patrick and Rebecca Childress

F

ortunately, this year while sailing the world and the south east coast of Africa, on our Valiant 40, Brick House, we had only one product failure, some good successes and some promising equipment to install.

MILANO FAUCET

What Worked, What Didn’t After Year 12 28

Our Moen, plastic, galley faucet had been with us for 12 years. It looked terrible though as the once white plastic had turned a nicotine yellow. After installing new water tubes to the galley, it was time to also install a new faucet. We went to an upscale mall in the largest city in Tanzania and bought the most expensive “stainless steel” faucet on display. The new faucet even passed our magnet test to make sure it was not chromed, common steel. The brilliant stainless finish certainly outshined our old faucet. But what a joke. Within two months the faucet was covered entirely by rust and corrosion. It still functioned, but it looked like it had been installed when this boat was built in 1976.

We contacted Milano Company, hoping for warranty coverage, but BLUE WATER SAILING

they told us that the faucet was not a Milano faucet even when we sent photos of the Milano name on the faucet. We then sent the credit card receipt and a video of the entire rack of Milano faucets in boxes at the store, with the salesman handing us our new faucet in the box with Milano clearly printed on it with all the Milano faucets in the background. They then refused to respond to any of our emails!

Moen no longer makes white plastic kitchen faucets, from what we can see. We will try a high-end Moen and see how it fares on our sailboat, which is really not any different of an environment than any other seaside cottage.

ALPENGLOW LIGHTS

My grandmother used to say how streetlights in Chicago went from kerosene to gas to incandescent, in her time. Such a fast, modern, transformation. On our sailboat, we saw some of our incandescent light bulbs get swapped for the very efficient, Alpenglow Compact Fluorescent bulbs, and then years later, those bulbs were swapped for the amazing, low amperage, very bright, Alpenglow LEDS. The LEDs were installed over three years ago and they are still working perfectly. To make that swap, we ordered the Alpenglow conversion kits. The kits include a new back plate, attached red night light, white lights, wiring and new switches. We did the soldering and conversion ourselves but if one is not familiar with tight soldering, it would be far easier and secure to just send Alpenglow the existing units and let them do the upgrade, and retain the warranty. (www.alpenglowlights. com). The cost is only $10 more Fall 2019

Above; Rusted Milano faucet; below, Alpenglow: old light panel and replacement LED panel

per unit for Alpenglow to do the work. That is a very good deal.

Our upgraded Alpenglow overhead lights have a high-low switch for the red light and a similar switch for the white light. On the low power setting for the white light, it draws 0.25 amps. That is plenty bright in our cabin or cockpit.

Rarely do we use the high setting, which draws 0.5 amps and is about a 33 percent energy savings over the old bulbs but we get light that is 30 percent brighter. Even the old CFL bulbs rarely needed attention but the new LEDs are projected to last 50,000 hours, about 25-to-30 years. With the modern advancements in LED technology, the new Alpenglow lights are the same warm white color as before. The LED has been such a positive upgrade that now, in

some dodgy anchorages, we leave the cockpit Alpenglow on all night to discourage thieves. This upgrade has been a very good, maintenance-free investment and simply keeps on working.

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Maggi chain going up to where it belongs

MAGGI ANCHOR CHAIN

It was past time to get new anchor chain. Our anchor chain was at least 25 years old, had been regalvanized twice and was now so rusty, I could not trust its strength in a strong blow. The problem was that we were in Thailand and Malaysia for a long time, where Chinese chain dominated the market.

There can be huge differences in longevity from one brand of chain to another, even when the chain grade and strength ratings are comparable. Chinese chain is most often not marked to indicate the manufacturer, or for anything else, so there is no indication of its quality without testing each piece.

According to Practical Sailor magazine, some Chinese chain they tested is excellent while other Chinese chain is very unreliable. We decided to order well in advance and have chain delivered to us in Richards Bay, South Africa. We went with a long-standing Italian company known for superior quality, Maggi Chain USA. Maggi chain is well known for its strength and elasticity and its secret galvanizing 30

process. While many European companies have turned to importing chain from China, Maggi continues to produce its own galvanized G40 and G70 (marketed as Aqua 4 and 7).

We had been getting by all these years with 5/16-inch chain, but specifications for our weight of boat call for 3/8-inch chain. We did upsize to 3/8-inch and bought a new gypsy for our Lofrans windlass. Our Maggi chain is stamped about every 3 feet with “MCIT”, which stands for Maggi Chain Italy. Sometimes this same chain will be stamped with “A4”, which stands for Aqua 4. If a chain is not stamped, how would a cruiser know for sure who made it? Another thing to look for is a “Cert”.

When a retailer sells an anchor chain, he should be able to supply to the customer a “Cert”, that is,

a certificate to show the chain has been recently tested and meets the minimum stated specifications. If this cannot be made available, I would proceed with great caution.

PROPSPEED ANTIFOULING

I have never been able to keep antifouling on any propeller that was installed on Brick House no matter what material the prop was made of. Antifouling quickly disappeared, which meant the beginning again of the biweekly chore to scrub the marine growth from the prop and drive shaft. In the 85-degree tropical water to which we are accustomed, the work was not terribly uncomfortable. However, there are frigid South American waters in our future, so I want the prop and shaft cleaning to be a quick “in and out” operation.

We have had Propspeed, which is a silicone coating, on our propulsion system in the past and it did what the advertising said it would do. We were very satisfied. The application is a very precise process of sanding, cleaning, etching, applying primer and then the final

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Installing the Tides Marine Sail Track

application of the clear silicone coating. The clear coating is not antifouling but an ultra-smooth surface that marine organisms have a very difficult time attaching to. If organisms do settle in the first year of application, I have been able to easily brush them off with a soft rag, and I would do this every two to three weeks to be on the safe side. As the Propspeed ages, a little more agitation is needed to brush the critters away.

The manufacturer of our Kiwiprop suggested that it is not necessary to prime the Zytel blades before applying traditional antifouling or Propspeed. I have learned to ignore that advise. With a Kiwiprop, however, an applicator must be careful not to build up any material in the area of swing of the blades’ trailing edge, as this could inhibit their forward-to-reverse function.

I can’t imagine a young-kid boat yard worker doing the application of Propspeed, correctly. Proper progression and timing of the application process is a fluid motion which leaves no room for taking a lunch or smoke break. Having a countdown timer during the application is useful to make sure one stays within the narrow window for proper adhesion between cleaning, priming and applying the finish coat. Propspeed is another Fall 2019

great product made in New Zealand by Oceanmax.

TIDES MARINE SAIL TRACK

Except for being wrapped up in our bent and mangled mast, during a dismasting, our previous Tides Marine Sail Track (www.tidesmarine.com ) was in great shape and served us well. That was in 2011, the same year our new mast went up, and so too the new Tides Marine Sail Track. So now, that track is eight years old.

Since we had been sailing all of that time in the harsh sun of the tropics, our TMST is showing some ultra violet sun etching. Now, we are hauled out in Africa, going through all the boat systems and replacing many things, including

the TMST, well before their expiration date so we can have a safe adventure crossing the Atlantic and rounding of South America.

The Tides Marine Sail Track is made of UHMW (ultra-highmolecular weight polyethylene) and is installed by simply sliding it up the existing mast groove and securing in place with a stop at the top and bottom.

On our 40-foot sailboat, I much prefer the Tides track, with its 316 sail slides, over roller-bearing cars.

Although those systems are easy to raise, there is so little friction that everything comes crashing down, sounding like something is going to break, unless one constantly has a hand on the halyard with a wrap around a winch. With the TMST and the stainless slides, I can let the main halyard fly and the main comes down at a measured clip.

The last several feet of sail triangle stays suspended just above the boom until it is ready to be flaked and then is easily pulled down.

The track comes in 125 different shapes to fit a variety of internal luff grooves as well as several external track shapes. This product has always proven to be a good investment on Brick House.

I have high hopes for Copper Coat

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A few supplies from AMT Composites

COPPERCOAT ANTIFOULING

We have never been satisfied with any antifouling paint we have applied to the bottom of Brick House. Self-ablative paints don’t self ablate. Medium hard paints attract soft, medium and hard marine growth. Every antifouling paint we have used, far in advance of expectations, requires going over the side with our hookah gear and hand scrubbing the bottom.

Even exposing new paint, it seems the toxins have leached out and marine growth soon reattaches itself. Our hookah and scraper have proven to be the best antifouling/ defouling gear.

Since there is no avoiding going over the side to clean the bottom, we will take a new approach, to make bottom cleaning much easier. Copper Coat is becoming well known, and if applied properly, is getting positive assessments.

Coppercoat is the combination of a specially developed twopart epoxy resin and 99 percent pure copper. Each liter of Coppercoat contains 2kg of ultra-fine copper powder. On immersion, sea water attacks the exposed pure copper, causing the formation of cuprous oxide. This highly effective 32

anti-fouling agent deters growth until the surface degrades further to become cupric hydrochloride.

This final copper form is highly unstable and is washed away by the movement of the yacht, thereby removing any accumulating silt or slime. This automatically reveals a fresh copper-rich surface whereby the process recommences. But, it is the “washed away by the movement of the yacht” promise I am not counting on. Yachts can sit for a long time and accumulate a huge amount of growth and some yachts just don’t reach surfing speeds to knock anything but a rusted piece of rigging loose. I hope I am pleasantly surprised and won’t have to spend much time in the water wiping the Copper Coat with a soft towel to remove marine growth. But if so, this will be a big improvement over having to use scrapers and scrubby pads which would take me at least two hours of underwater time to clean conventional antifouling.

AMT COMPOSITES

While in the U.S., I always used West System epoxy. Now that we are hauled out in South Africa, there are no familiar brands of

epoxy for sale at the local marine store. I had to buy one-liter bottles of repackaged resin and hardener, which had little more than the price tag for markings. I found out the hard way that no sales clerks knew the proper mixing ratio.

What a disaster... my fiberglass layup never hardened properly and I had to spend excruciating effort to strip the uncured layers off my previously solid work. Quickly I had enough of this repackaged, non-marked, who-knows-what brand of epoxy, and needed to find the good stuff.

Asking the boat yard contractors where they buy reliable epoxy, they all responded that they use AMT Composites (Advanced Materials Technology trading as AMT Composites) which has offices in Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg.

AMT supplies whatever one needs for building anything from composite airplanes to making a composite coffee table, to luxury boat building. AMT distributes Gurit formulated products – formerly SP Systems - which are manufactured in the U.K.. This is now what I have been using for general fiberglassing and repairing on Brick House. From all indications, this particular resin SP106, is equal to the West System 105 resin. The Gurit resin will also be used to rebuild all the craters in our hull that were created when I ground out old blisters that were initiated back in 1976, when this boat was built with bad fiberglass resin. The builder switched to a cheaper resin supplier and got what he paid for –this is sounding familiar–and now we are paying for it in repair labor and materials. When we need more supplies, whether resin, cloth or Peelply, I simply call in the order and they ship it to us here in Richards Bay. We could also buy it from one of the local yard contractors.

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The people at AMT provided some excellent technical advice when we initially contacted them to be sure we were buying the best materials for our particular job. The one thing about the AMT supplied resin is that they do not make available metered pumps so each batch of resin and hardener must be weighed on a scale. Every boat owner who plans to do work on their boat in South Africa needs to have the AMT website loaded on their computer. (AMT is kind enough to give us a discount on our supplies for mentioning them in this article.)

BLUEWATER BOOKS & CHARTS

the Atlantic Circuit and Patagonia & Tierra Del Fuego Nautical Guide, for the next year or two of travel.

Bluewater Books and Charts has been in business for more than 30 years and offers the single greatest selection of paper and electronic charts, cruising guides, marine books and publications, software, flags and instruments available for sailors like us. It’s nice to have one central location for everything offered, who can reliably ship around the world to us.

We have made KAP files (Google Earth charts) for every possible stop along the way, downloaded the Ovitalmap Bing satellite charts on our iPad, and have gotten new Navionics and Jeppesen CMap chart chips for both the Raymarine chartplotter as well as the iPad; we will update them again electronically just before we leave.

This year, for the first time, we purchased the Navionics PLATINUM+ Satellite/photography/nautical charts for South America for the chartplotter, instead of just the Navionics+ chips we have used in the past. This will be our first look

There is nothing like having a large-scale paper chart to see where a boat has been and where it is going. The super-wide view, also gives a spatial awareness that no chartplotter screen can match.

We ordered a paper chart of the entire Atlantic Ocean from Bluewater Books and Charts (bluewaterweb. com). That chart will be folded flat and live under the Plexiglas of the chart table. We will be able to quickly plot the location of fellow Blue Water Books is an amazing source for cruisers and keep nautical books and charts track of our own wanderings.

Additionally, as we start the fourth quarter of our circumnavigation, we have found that despite the plethora of digital information, a printed paper cruising guide, one that we can highlight and scribble notes in, is still our preferred way to organize routes and anchorages ahead.

We stocked up with Fall 2019

at the Platinum+ charts, running them on the newly updated Raymarine Lighthouse software that brings our slightly dated chartplotter up to the current look and feel of Raymarine’s latest models. This is very exciting considering the advances Raymarine constantly makes to their technology! We will now go into anchorages with full satellite images and photography on the chartplotter (still our favorite source), and we will have all the paper books and information we need in one central location without even having to turn on a computer. BWS Patrick and Rebecca Childress sailed away from Rhode Island to spend 4 years cruising. That was now, 12 years ago. The have sailed ¾ of the way around the world. They are hauled out in South Africa, revamping their boat in preparation for crossing the Atlantic to Uruguay.

How far south they get will depend on how well the cold weather treats them. Join their “how to” channel on YouTube, www.youtube.com/patrickchildress.

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2019

Allures 40.9

Annual Fall Boat Show Preview

W

ith boat show season just ahead, it is time for BWS to take a look at what is new out there in cruising boats and gear and equipment. The monohull market in the U.S. has been fairly quiet the last two years with not many new designs appearing at the shows. The big European monohull builders—Beneteau, Jeanneau and Hanse—account for about 75 percent of the new boats sold in the U.S., while traditional U.S. powerhouses like Catalina and Tartan are running at much slower volumes than they did only a decade ago.

Still, as we go into the fall, there are some very interesting new designs in the works from both large and small builders that seem to offer some promise for innovation and development in the monohull world.

Plus companies offering gear, equipment and electronics that serve both the sail and powerboat markets are constantly innovating and coming out with new and 34

by George Day

improved products.

Attending the fall boats shows is a great way to stay abreast of the sailing industry, it’s a fun way to hang out with your sailing friends and you are liable to find some very good “boat show specials” that will help you save a dollar or two.

NEW BOATS, NEW DESIGNS

Allures 40.9: If you are looking for a voyaging boat that will look after you at sea, that is incredibly strong and designed with a centerboard for shallow waters, then an aluminum-hulled Allures from France may be a great choice. Allures is part of the larger French company Grand Large Yachting so,

even though it is a small builder, it has plenty of financial and organizational strength behind it. The brand new 40.9 is a pure couple’s voyaging boat that has room for extra crew when making offshore runs and will be comfortable for guests who join you in the wild far off places that boat will take you to.

The design comes with either a two cabin one head layout or the three cabin two head plan. The cutter rig is sensible and allows a single watchkeeper to reduce sail in a rising gale easily and efficiently from the cockpit. For more information, log on to www.allures.com or visit the US dealer at www.swiftsureyachts.com.

Beneteau First Yacht 53

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Catalina 545

Beneteau First Yacht 53: Some of my favorite Beneteau designs over the years have appeared under the First banner. The boats have always been dual-purpose racer-cruisers and have always had a bit more, if not a lot more performance built into their DNA than Beneteau’s Oceanis line of cruising boats. But, we have not seen a new First series design come on the market for many a year. So it is with great pleasure we introduce you to the new Beneteau First Yacht 53. The design is by Italian speed specialist Biscontini Yacht Design with the deck and interior styling by Lorenzo Argento. As far as I know, this is the first new Beneteau for both designers.

The 53 has a completely modern hull shape that carries maximum beam all the way aft to the open transom and is fitted with a fixed bowsprit for flying asymmetrical spinnakers and reaching sails. The rig is tall and with a carbon fiber option, will provide exceptional sailing performance. The cockpit has twin wheels and it is so beamy that it also has twin cockpit tables.

The keel is a high performance Tbulb design and the twin rudders are high aspect foils. The interior layout offers either three cabins with two heads, or three cabins with three heads.

The new First Yacht is going to turn a lot of heads as she sails by and will be showing her racing and cruising companions her transom just about every time she sets sail.

Fall 2019

www.beneteau.com/us.

Catalina 545: We have been waiting for the new 50-foot plus design from Gerry Douglas at Catalina for some time now and, by the looks of the drawings and renderings, we and the Catalina family of cruisers will not be disappointed. The new 545 is part of the new family of modern cruisers that Dougas launched with the successful 425 a couple of years ago. The new Catalina look has a more plumb bow, a squared off fold-down transom and a fairly flat sheer. The cabin top is fairly low but it still has the distinctive Catalina side windows that you will always recognize across a crowded harbor. With a 15-foot, six inch beam, the 545 is not overly beamy and the hull shape looks sleek and fast. With 50 feet of waterline, this is a cruising boat that will carve up the miles at sea.

The interior shows a three-cabin layout with a giant master cabinsuite forward and quarter cabin aft.

The saloon is open and uncluttered with a dinette to port, a bench settee to starboard and a proper yacht galley that has a huge amount of counter space, storage and cabinets. This is a couple’s boat but it will work very well for a family who enjoy cruising together. And, with 225 gallons of water and 130 gallons of fuel in the tanks, this is a go-anywhere, go far offshore cruiser with all of the traditional American quality that Catalina builds into each boat.

Hanse 458 & 508: The Hanse Group in Germany is a huge boat building company that is beginning to rival Group Beneteau. Their keystone brand is the Hanse line of cruising sailboats that have done a lot to influence design ideas for the 21st century. The company is constantly introducing new designs and boats that upgrade existing designs.

This year, they have introduced the Hanse 508 and the 458, which are both futuristic looking sloops with self-tacking jibs and extra-large, cruising mainsails.

As it happens, I sailed a Hanse 50.1 across the North Atlantic last summer so I am familiar with this size Hanse and expect the new 508 to be very similar to the 50.1. The company has a habit of recycling good hulls with new decks and cockpits. This may be the case with the 508. Nonetheless, the boat is a huge 50 footer with three large

Hanse 508 35

cabins, a huge saloon, an in-line galley to port and a dinette that will seat eight to starboard. We found the 50.1 to be very fast and powerful, to the point that we often sailed with two reefs in the main.

The 458 takes all of the elements of the 508 and compresses them into a 45-foot package, which was no mean feat. The main difference is in the size of the cockpit, which is quite a bit smaller than on the 508. But, the cockpit is still ample for a crew of up to six or so. Down below, you can have either a standard three-cabin layout or you can convert the master suite forward into two smaller cabins for a total of four with berths for eight. Both the 508 and the 458 will make a great couple’s cruise boat and as we proved last summer, the quality and integrity of these German built boats is excellent. https:// www.yachts.group/gb/hanse.html.

Hylas 57 & 60: With two new luxury cruising designs in the works, Taiwan-based Queen Long is reinventing the Hylas brand with innovation and style. The new 57, which is already in build, takes the center-cockpit, raised-deck saloon theme introduced in the Hylas 48 a couple of years ago and applies it to a a larger yacht. The Bill Dixon-designed hull has a very modern form with a nearly plumb bow, long waterline and a broad transom. The Solent rig with a selftacking jib inboard and a reacher on the headstay will be easy for a couple to handle. Down below, the three-cabin layout saloon is bright and welcoming with huge windows and opening hatches. Hylas 36

has always built stylish, couHylas 60 ple’s cruising boats that provide a lot of quality for a fair price. The new 57 fits right into that mold.

The new Hylas 60, however, is something of a mold breaker. The builder has once again teamed up with designer German Frers but the hull he has drawn is a far cry from the more conservative hulls of his earlier Hylases. The 60 looks like a modern performance machine that will cross oceans at very high average speeds. I can see this boat doing 200 mile days pretty regularly with a favorable breeze.

The company teamed up with Italian designer Hot Lab to give the new boat a true “super yacht” ambience, both on deck and down below. The raised desk-saloon is gone and replaced by a very sleek, low cabin top. The cockpit is huge and will accommodate eight or more for alfresco meals. Down below, the design effort was to make the boat feel warm, elegant and calm so a lot of pale, neutral colors were melded into a incredibly chic and modern look. This boat is gong to turn heads both while sailing and while entertaining friends aboard. www.hylasyachts.com.

Island Packet 42 Motor Sailer: The rebirth of the Island Packet company, which also builds Blue Jacket sloops and Seaward shoaldraft sloops, continues under the management of new owners Leslie and Darrell Allen. Their big new project is the introduction of the IP 42 Motor Sailer. In keeping with the long IPY tradition, the boat has a Full Foil Keel and a large barndoor rudder. The cabin is a full raised deck house with the helm

station forward, the galley and a dinette aft. There are two double cabins with two heads down below.

The 42 MS has a standard IP sloop rig with an in-mast furling mainsail, a self tacking jib on a Hoyt jib boom and a genoa or reacher on the forestay. Sheets for the sails are run to Lewmar captive winches and controlled with switches at the helm. This way, you can hoist sails and control them from inside the deck house. A large hatch in the deckhouse roof allows you to see the mainsail and trim as necessary. This boat would be great for cruising the ICW or even heading to high latitudes for cold weather cruising. www.ipy.com.

Jeanneau 410: The new Sun Odyssey 410 with the walk-around side decks that Jeanneau introduced to cruising boats three years ago was designed by long-time Jeanneau contributor Marc Lombard. The boat is a little sister to the 440 and 490 that were introduced a couple of years ago to great acclaim. I sailed the 410 in Annapolis on a light airy day and found it to be easy to handle, fast and very roomy. The key innovation in the boat is the walk-around

IP 42 MS

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side decks which means you don’t have to crawl over the coaming to get in and out of the cockpit; instead you just walk around behind the twin helms and go forward undeterred. The look of the 410 is ultra-modern with a low slung cabin top, a slightly reverse bow, a bowsprit and hard chines that run almost the full length of the boat.

Down below the saloon is bright and well ventilated. The galley is amidships to port and is a great wrap-around sea-going galley. The L-shaped dinette is to port. The boat comes in a variety of layouts, with the two-double cabin and one head version being the simplest and most practical for most couples. Interestingly, the 410 can come with a deep performance keel, a shoal keel or it can be fitted with a swing keel that greatly reduces draft when not deployed. www.jeanneauamerican.com.

Outbound 52, 56 & Voyager 52: For the past 20 years, Outbound has been building one of the finest offshore, passagemaking boats on the market, the Outbound 46.

Outbounds are truly outbound since you will find them all over the world as their owners complete amazing voyages. A few years ago, they introduced the Outbound 52, which is a sleek, center-cockpit design that is a truly commodious and fast passagemaker with a bit more room below than the 46. This year, Outbound is adding a luxury 56 foot center cockpit design by German Frers that has a huge aft cabin, a large galley in the passageway aft and two comfortFall 2019

able cabins and a second head forward. This, too, is a couple’s Jeanneau 410 passagemaking boat that comes with a very strong pedigree.

The other exciting news from Outbound, as it expands, is the introduction of the new Voyager 52 which has a truly raised saloon and a raised dinette that allows you to see the world around you through 360 degrees as you sit at the table. The renderings for the new boat, inside and out, show a handsome, sleek hull very like the hull for the 52, a well crafted raised cabin house with large windows and a fine and commodious aft cockpit. The design has two equally comfortable sleeping cabins, each with its own head. For a couple who want a go-anywhere floating home that will sail very well, the new Outbound Voyager 52 is an exciting new option. www. outboundyachts.com.

Oyster 565: Over the decades that Oyster has built its reputation as a builder of true, luxury blue water yachts, the size of the boats on offer has crept up until it was rare to find much new under 60 feet. Something in the 65 to 100 foot range and you had a lot of choices. So, it is great to see the company building this great 56-foot family cruising boat that will make a great world cruiser for a couple or a

young family. A center cockpit raised deck salon design, like all of her sisters, the 565 has a powerful Rob Humphries-designed hull and a tall, sloop rig with a roller furling mainsail and a 110 percent working jib. With the bowsprit, you can easily fly a reaching sail forward of the jib’s roller furling system. The cockpit is large enough to dine with eight people and has the sailing functions aft so Voyager 52

loungers and sailors don’t step on each other. The 565 has a number of keel options and can be built with a shoal draft keel-centerboard that will make it useful in areas with thin water such a the Bahamas and Chesapeake Bay. Down below, the standard layout offer two large double cabins and a smaller pullman style cabin. The fit and finish of the 565 is as fine as you will find on any modern yachts. Many aspire to own an Oyster but only a few can do it. Perhaps you are one who can. www.oysteryachts.com.

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