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A Personal Welcome What gardening has taught me
Welcome to this free sample of Genovia Garden Monthly. I have brought its main subjects together in a shorter edition, with practical advice to help you enjoy and care for your own garden.
In this issue
I still work in gardens of many sizes, from smaller private spaces to larger gardens and estates. Before suggesting changes, I look at the soil, the position and how the owner wants to use the space.
04 Weeds & Homemade Feeds
03 Soil, Leaves & Compost
05 Planting & Winter Protection 06 Fruit Trees & Roses
I have learned a great deal from gardeners of an older generation. Years of watching plants through the seasons give their knowledge a depth worth passing on. Traditional methods deserve a place alongside new ideas and careful observation.
07 Lawns, Borders & Climbers 08 Crops, Wildlife & Water 09 Tools, Plans & Questions
Many of us enjoy an immaculate garden. I do too, but I think of the seaside: a spotless beach looks tidy, while seaweed left by the tide provides food and shelter. In a garden, some fallen leaves, seed heads and quiet corners also have a purpose.
10 Membership & Garden Visits
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The dates here are typical UK working windows. A mild autumn can delay leaf fall; a cold spring can delay tender growth. I watch the plant, the ground and the forecast before choosing the job.
Members receive a fuller digital issue by email every month. Membership is £47.88 a year, paid upfront: the equivalent of £3.99 a month for 12 issues. Details, offers and garden visits are explained on page 10.
Ramtin EPour
My reminder The garden will always teach us something new. I hope these pages give you something useful to try. 2 www.genovia.co.uk
Soil, Leaves & Compost November care starts beneath our feet
I begin with the weather and the ground. A useful November checklist protects soil, clears essential routes and turns suitable garden waste into something valuable.
1. Watch the conditions
2. Improve soil thoughtfully
A sheltered garden may still be growing while an exposed one catches frost. Check the short-range forecast, drainage, loose ties and unstable pots. Keep clear of hanging branches or newly leaning trees and seek professional assessment. If soil smears or squelches underfoot, use paths and wait before digging.
Well-rotted garden compost and leaf mould improve soil structure over time. Organic matter helps sandy soil retain moisture and can improve heavier ground. In established beds, I often leave suitable material on the surface for soil organisms to incorporate. I avoid digging simply to make a border look tidy.
3. Mulch the right way
4. Make leaf mould
Remove established perennial weeds first. Apply a general organic mulch about 5-7.5 cm deep to moist, workable soil, keeping roughly 10 cm clear around woody stems and trunks. Do not bury perennial crowns. Avoid frozen or waterlogged ground; routine nutrient-rich compost applications often suit late winter or early spring better.
Clear leaves from lawns and slippery paths, leaving suitable sheltered corners for wildlife. Collect clean leaves separately in a wire enclosure or a loosely tied sack with air and drainage holes. Keep them damp. Partly decayed leaves may make mulch after a year; fine leaf mould often takes two years or longer.
5. Balance the compost heap
6. Judge the finished material
Mix small additions of grass clippings and other soft growth with dry leaves, shredded plain cardboard or chopped stems. Thick grass layers turn slimy. Avoid treated clippings unless the product instructions allow their intended use. Keep meat, fish, dairy products, cooked food and pet waste out of an ordinary garden heap.
Keep compost moist, not sodden, and loosen a compacted mixture with dry material. Turning can speed decay, but winter heaps work slowly. Use dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling compost in beds and borders; return unfinished pieces to the heap. Garden compost differs from the potting compost used in containers. Liquid feeds are explained on page 4.
My reminder Keep access clear, protect wet soil and leave suitable quiet corners for nature. Useful care does not require bare borders. 3 www.genovia.co.uk
Weeds & Homemade Feeds Useful plants, careful choices and measured dilution
Some weeds support wildlife or cover bare soil, but they also compete with garden plants. I control useful patches. Homemade feeds suit active growth, rather than routine November lawn feeding.
1. A managed nettle patch
2. Dandelions and clover
Nettles feed butterfly caterpillars and can provide material for liquid feed. I keep a small patch away from paths and young planting, control its spread and wear gloves when handling it. A useful plant still needs the right place.
Dandelions and white clover provide flowers for insects in a wildlife lawn. I retain them where they fit the garden, while removing weeds that crowd seedlings or valued plants. Low cover can shield bare soil, but uncontrolled weeds compete for light, water and nutrients.
3. Comfrey soaked in water
4. Grass concentrate: no water
Comfrey is often grown deliberately for feed. Wearing gloves, I submerge its leaves in water in a loosely covered bucket. After about two to four weeks, I strain the liquid and dilute one part to ten parts water. I apply around suitable plants during active growth.
I pack clean, fresh clippings into a loosely covered garden container without adding water. I check weekly until dark liquid collects, then strain it. This may take days or weeks. Keep the container away from children and pets, and never seal a fermenting brew under pressure.
5. Measure the grass-feed dilution
6. Choose material carefully
For concentrate made without added water, mix one part liquid with 20 parts water: 50 ml concentrate plus 1 litre of water. Apply to soil around suitable growing plants with a watering can, never a sprayer. Nutrient content varies. This is not a 50:50 mixture or a November lawn tonic.
Use known, untreated plants. Wear gloves, label containers, work in a ventilated place and wash afterwards. Poisonous, unidentified or weedkiller-contaminated plants stay out of a brew. Remove unwanted seed heads and keep persistent weed roots out of an ordinary cool compost heap. Planned ground cover or mulch may be the better choice.
My reminder Illustrations are not an identification key. Do not eat these plants. Different feed recipes require different dilutions. 4 www.genovia.co.uk
Planting & Winter Protection Prepare for spring while caring for what is here
November offers planting opportunities when the ground is workable. I choose plants for the position, then check drainage, root protection and the forecast before beginning.
1. Plant tulips for spring
2. Handle bare-root plants gently
Choose firm, healthy bulbs and follow the packet for depth and spacing, with the pointed end upwards. Most border tulips suit sun and well-drained soil. Use suitable peat-free potting compost and drainage holes in containers. After flowering, let foliage die back naturally. Some tulips return better than others; keep notes.
Plant suitable dormant trees, shrubs, hedging and fruit bushes in autumn or winter while soil is workable. Protect roots from drying and wait if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Clear perennial weeds, plant at the correct depth, backfill with excavated soil, firm gently and water. Check ties, moisture and wind-rock afterwards.
3. Choose a winter display
4. Keep pots draining
I combine plants with similar light, moisture and compost needs. Winter-flowering violas, heathers and evergreen foliage can provide interest. Acid-loving plants need ericaceous compost; longer-term planting may suit a loam-based peat-free mix. Check the label rather than choosing by bag colour or a promotion alone. Allow for mature size.
Use clear drainage holes and raise outdoor pots on suitable feet. Do not add a gravel layer as a substitute for proper drainage. Check compost before watering: rain may miss pots under eaves or foliage. Protect vulnerable pots, remove damaged flowers and leaves, and keep displays from narrowing paths.
5. Protect tender plants early
6. Check the greenhouse
Check each plant's hardiness and your local conditions before frost. Some need frost-free accommodation; others benefit from suitable temporary protection. Secure horticultural fleece without crushing growth and allow ventilation when appropriate. Cold and prolonged wet together can be damaging. Dahlias and other tubers need care suited to the plant and garden.
Clean accessible glazing and remove fallen leaves, keeping space between plants. Use a minimum-and-maximum thermometer: an unheated greenhouse can still freeze. Ventilate on suitable mild days and close up before temperatures fall. Water according to the plant's needs, avoiding constantly wet compost. Follow equipment and heater instructions, keeping electrical equipment dry.
My reminder Plant only while conditions suit. Bulbs are not for eating; keep them away from children and pets. 5 www.genovia.co.uk
Fruit Trees & Roses
Identify the plant before picking up the secateurs Pruning follows the plant, its flowering or fruiting habit and its growth stage. A mild November day does not make every tree or rose ready for cutting.
1. Wait for dormancy
2. Read the apple tree
Established free-standing apples and pears are usually winter-pruned from November to early March, after leaf fall and before budburst. A mild autumn can delay dormancy. Choose dry, frost-free conditions. Young trees, cordons, espaliers and other trained forms need their own guidance. Do not apply this winter routine to cherries or plums.
Look for dead, damaged, diseased, rubbing or crowded growth before deciding what to remove. Some varieties fruit at shoot tips as well as on spurs, so a blanket trim can remove the next crop. Retain useful younger replacement shoots and reduce size gradually. A poor crop does not automatically call for harder pruning.
3. Keep pear pruning modest
4. Prepare roses for winter
Aim for well-spaced branches and light within the crown, rather than stripping out every small shoot. Many pears fruit on short spurs; protect useful fruiting wood. Routine pruning is usually light, around 10-20 per cent of the canopy. Severe cuts encourage upright regrowth. An overgrown tree may need gradual renovation.
Identify the rose type. Tall, exposed bush roses may benefit from shortening long stems by about a third in autumn to reduce wind-rock; this is not the full main prune. Secure climbing stems with soft ties. Collect leaves showing black spot and keep mulch clear of the base rather than piling wet material against stems.
5. Note the rose's main date
6. Step back before another cut
Bush roses are usually pruned in February or March, later in colder gardens. Climbing roses are usually pruned in December-February. Most once-flowering ramblers are pruned after summer flowering. Check the variety and conditions rather than treating a rambler like a hybrid tea or cutting all roses to one height.
Use clean, sharp tools and assess the shape repeatedly. Keep sound growth with a purpose; clean tools after diseased material. Remove rotten stored apples and reachable mummified fruit, and check supports and ties. High branches, heavy limbs, unstable trees and major restoration need appropriate professional assessment and equipment.
My reminder If I cannot identify the plant or explain why a branch needs removing, I wait until I can. 6 www.genovia.co.uk
Lawns, Borders & Climbers A cared-for garden can keep its winter character
I keep lawns usable, borders purposeful and supports secure. The right job may be a light cut, a careful tie or simply leaving sound growth alone until its proper season.
1. Care for the lawn gently
2. Keep or cut perennials?
Clear fallen leaves before they smother grass. If grass is growing and the ground is firm enough, mow with a higher setting than in summer. Keep off frozen or waterlogged lawns and reduce repeated traffic. Avoid summer lawn feed in November; any treatment must suit the season, instructions and actual problem. Record drainage, shade and moss for later repairs.
Retain sound stems and seed heads for shelter and winter interest. Remove collapsing material that smothers healthy growth, and keep clearly diseased material separate from ordinary compost. Penstemons often wait until April or May, after frost risk has passed. Ornamental grasses differ: many deciduous types wait until late winter, while evergreen types need selective care.
3. Protect next year's flowers
4. Know the clematis group
Forsythia, flowering currants and many spring-flowering shrubs are usually pruned after flowering. Cherries and plums generally need spring or summer pruning suited to the tree. Buddleja davidii usually waits until early spring; B. globosa follows flowering. Lavender is usually trimmed in late summer after flowering, avoiding bare old wood. Check the species first.
Group 1 generally needs little pruning; cut after flowering once frost risk has passed. Group 2 is pruned lightly in February and after the first flush of flowers. Group 3 is cut back to low buds in February. Check the variety before choosing a routine; do not cut every clematis down in November.
5. Support climbers and wisteria
6. Inspect hedges before trimming
Check trellis, wires and fixings safely from the ground. Retie flexible stems with soft ties, leaving room for thickening; do not force stiff stems sharply. Wisteria is normally pruned in July-August and January-February. November is useful for support checks. Large, heavy climbers or failing fixings may need professional attention.
Identify the hedge and its main trimming season. Beech, hornbeam, yew and Leyland cypress respond differently; most conifers do not regrow from old brown wood. Check leaning plants, loose roots and damage, and retain useful shelter. Never disturb an active bird nest. Tall hedges, major height reductions and unsafe access need suitable professional help.
My reminder Tidiness means choosing what needs attention, not removing every stem, leaf or sheltered corner. 7 www.genovia.co.uk
Crops, Wildlife & Water Harvest carefully and leave room for garden life
The garden remains active as winter approaches. I harvest what is ready, protect useful crops and make gentle checks around wildlife refuges and ponds.
1. Keep the vegetable plot useful
2. Choose garlic and beans carefully
Harvest leeks, parsnips and other winter crops as needed, lifting carefully without repeatedly treading on wet beds. Remove yellowing brassica leaves and check pigeon protection; inspect netting so wildlife cannot become tangled. Clear spent crop debris selectively, leaving standing crops that still have a purpose. Record crop positions and check seed stocks before buying.
Autumn garlic needs a suitable variety and workable, well-drained soil. Where the ground is too wet, consider starting cloves in modules. Overwintering broad beans suit appropriate mild areas and well-drained conditions; colder or wetter gardens may do better with pots under cover or by waiting. The variety and local conditions decide the job.
3. Identify your raspberries
4. Treat fruit bushes individually
Summer-fruiting raspberries crop on the previous year's canes. After harvest, remove old fruited canes and retain strong new ones, tying them in. Autumn-fruiting types usually crop on new canes; for the usual single autumn crop, cut old canes to ground level in February while dormant, before growth gets going. Do not cut every raspberry down in November.
Blackcurrants, redcurrants and whitecurrants have different pruning and renewal needs. Check the plant's method rather than giving every bush the same trim. Plant suitable dormant bare-root fruit in workable soil, protecting roots and allowing for mature size. Label varieties, check supports and remove rotten fruit where appropriate; a record of fruiting time helps future care.
5. Welcome wildlife responsibly
6. Check ponds gently
Leave some sound seed heads, berries, logs and sheltered leaves. Check for animals before moving heaps or stored materials; leave occupied refuges alone. Provide clean, shallow water with safe access. If feeding birds, use suitable hanging feeders, clean them at least weekly, remove waste and stop if birds show disease. A small managed patch can be valuable.
Lift excess leaves from a stable edge without disturbing the whole pond. Protect wildlife access and follow equipment makers' winter instructions. Never walk on pond ice or smash it with a hammer. Keep edges and cables safe, especially around children and pets. Plan major clearance around wildlife and pond conditions.
My reminder A pond or border does not need to be sterile to be cared for. Gentle maintenance often serves it better. 8 www.genovia.co.uk
Tools, Plans & Questions Use a quiet spell to prepare for the next job
Good gardening begins with observation and equipment that works safely. These checks and common questions help turn a wet afternoon into useful preparation.
1. Clean and store hand tools
2. Make machinery safe
Brush soil from spades, forks and trowels. Wash if needed and dry thoroughly, including joints and handles. Remove sap and debris from cutting tools; after diseased plants, use a suitable disinfectant as directed. Check blades, springs, bolts and handles, lubricate appropriate moving parts and follow sharpening guidance. Store securely with sharp edges protected.
Isolate power before maintenance and follow the manual: petrol, electric and battery machines need different storage routines. Keep batteries and chargers dry and within recommended conditions; never charge damaged batteries. Arrange servicing before spring. Never reach into moving equipment or attempt electrical repairs without appropriate expertise.
3. Plan around your own garden
4. Must I mow and clear every leaf?
Start with what you want: flowers, wildlife, family space, entertaining or somewhere peaceful to sit. Measure the garden and observe light, shade, wind, wet areas and existing planting. Keep what works, allow for mature plant size and future maintenance, then phase manageable changes. Clear priorities and plant notes help your existing gardener work with the plan.
Mow only if grass is growing and conditions suit, using a higher cut. Keep off frosty or waterlogged grass. Clear leaves from lawns and slippery routes, but leave suitable sheltered patches for wildlife. Collected leaves can become leaf mould. A clear path and a quiet leaf refuge can belong in the same well-kept garden.
5. Will rain and a greenhouse protect plants?
6. Can I prune now? What should I ask?
Rain does not always reach pots under eaves or dense foliage. Check compost before watering and make sure excess water drains. An unheated greenhouse gives shelter but can still freeze. Measure actual temperatures and provide suitable additional protection or frost-free accommodation where the species needs it, rather than assuming every plant will be safe.
Mild weather alone is not enough: check species, flowering habit and dormancy before cutting. For a gardening question, include a whole-plant photograph, a close-up and the label if available. Explain its position, whether it is in a pot or soil, when the problem began and recent watering or treatments. Identification comes before treatment.
My reminder A small note, a clear photograph and the right plant name often make the next gardening decision much easier. 9 www.genovia.co.uk
Membership & Garden Visits A little gardening inspiration, every month
This free, condensed sample brings the magazine's main subjects together. Membership offers a fuller digital issue each month, with room to explore plants, practical methods and seasonal choices in more detail.
1. One clear annual price
2. A companion to your books
Membership costs £47.88 for one year, paid upfront. That is the equivalent of £3.99 a month for 12 monthly digital issues, delivered by email. Payment is annual, rather than a monthly instalment. This sample issue is free. Visit www.genovia.co.uk to enquire about membership and confirm the current arrangements.
A good gardening book earns its place on the shelf. A monthly magazine brings useful jobs back to mind, with typical working windows, signs to watch for and reasons to wait when conditions are unsuitable. I want it to be something you return to in the garden, rather than read once and forget.
3. Fuller features and useful advice
4. Selected offers and promotions
Member issues will develop these subjects with seasonal checklists, plant-care features, planting ideas and guidance on composts and useful garden products. Members can submit gardening questions and clear photographs for consideration in future issues. The aim is practical knowledge that suits the plant, its position and the way you want to enjoy your garden.
I plan to include relevant garden-centre offers, product suggestions and promotions as they become available. Each offer will have its own availability and terms. Advice will explain why something may be useful, rather than suggesting every garden needs it. A discount should support a sensible gardening choice, not decide it for you.
5. Garden visits, with or without a gardener
6. A note on advice and timing These are typical UK seasonal windows, adjusted for species, growth stage, soil and forecast. Illustrations are explanatory, not identification keys. Editorial checks draw on RHS gardening guidance, Monty Don's seasonal advice and RSPB bird-care guidance: www.rhs.org.uk, www.montydon.com and www.rspb.org.uk. Thank you for joining me in the garden. Ramtin EPour.
Garden visits are charged separately and can complement your existing gardener's work. We begin with your priorities and the garden's conditions, discussing planting, improvements and future care. Enquire at www.genovia.co.uk to confirm availability, scope and charges.
My reminder Free sample. £47.88 paid annually for 12 monthly issues, equivalent to £3.99 a month. www.genovia.co.uk 10 www.genovia.co.uk