9 minute read
A Culinary Adventure in Kuching
Text & Images by MUHAMMAD HASIF MOHD JELANI
Though this is not my first time in Kuching, I am surprised to find out that Kuching has rich and diverse culinary offerings, which I did not realise during my earlier visit. I mean, with over 28 different ethnic groups, Sarawak, with Kuching as its capital, is bound to surprise travellers in one way or another, right?
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By joining the four-day-and-three-night media familiarisation trip called ‘Sarawak Food Trail – Lan Berambeh Makan di Sarawak’ organised by Tourism Malaysia Sarawak, I got to experience Kuching through my stomach like never before. We discovered new dishes and new flavours every day, to the point that I just couldn’t get enough of Kuching, which is why I decided to extend my trip to discover more of Kuching’s enticing, ambrosial side…
Top Spot Seafood Restaurant
One of the restaurants at Top Spot.
Without doubt, this is a must for everyone, be it local, first-timer or regular traveller to Kuching. This place is usually packed with customers who wish to experience some of the best menus in town, especially seafood. Since it is located on the top floor of a cark park that is al fresco and breezy, this place is an intimate space to dine with friends and family.
Café Café at The Original Carwash
Delicious Nyonya beef rendang served by Café Café at The Original Carwash.
Set up in a cosy area just next to a carwash, this cafe is known for its delectable and pleasurable fusion dishes. The idea behind it is to give customers a wonderful time treating themselves with good food while waiting for their cars to finish being washed. My favourite picks would be Nyonya beef Rendang, mini tuna toast, and Thai-styled cold midin (a type of local wild fern).
Lepau Restaurant
Brown Bario Rice wrapped in itun isip (wild ginger leaf) at Lepau Restaurant.
Open for dinner, this is one of the finest restaurants that serve authentic traditional cuisine, especially from Orang Ulu and Dayak ethnic groups. Be sure to savour the classic Brown Bario Rice wrapped in itun isip (wild ginger leaf) alongside other quintessential Sarawak dishes like pansuh (bamboo) chicken, Melanau fish umai, tempoyak goreng pusuk, sambal terung asam and stir fried midin with garlic.
Chelum Sarawak Chocolate
Various types of chocolates produced by Chelum Sarawak Chocolate.
A chocolate lover herself, Noorasmah, 45, decided to open her own brand of chocolate in 2018 called Chelum (which means ‘black’ in Iban). But what makes her chocolate special is that she incorporates Sarawakian flavours as part of the premium chocolate ingredients. Among the types of chocolates offered are Sagok Pearl, Tebaloi Crunch, Tiong Delite, Blackpepper Seed, and Lazeez Spice. To learn more or order the chocolate, travellers may contact Lazeez Enterprise at +6 013 939 9809 or +6 019 888 8808.
KANTIN at the Granary
The dish called nanasi, including juicy satay, served by KANTIN at the Granary.
Located within an old building rumoured to be a warehouse for grains, belian (Bornean ironwood) and opium, KANTIN at The Granary sits right at the foot of Marian Boutique Hotel. Focusing on modern Sarawak cuisine, the restaurant’s favourite mains include Rainforest Fried Rice, Nanasi (Nanas + Nasi), and Superdry Laksa while recommended beverages include Kantin Kaffeine, Sarawak Teh C Special (Three Layer Tea), and Three Sour Crush. My favourite must be the thick, juicy chicken satays (also served with Nanasi) which are chargrilled using Sarawak’s iconic natural sweetener, gula apong (palm sugar).
Babaganoush Restaurant
Umai obor-obor, Melanau traditional dish made from jellyfish at Babaganoush Restaurant.
This air-conditioned restaurant serves an array of dishes including seafood, fusion, international, and local favourites, making it suitable for all types of diners. Some of the highlights are ikan kurau asam pedas (threadfin in spicy gravy), dry curry ambal (razor shell), umai obor-obor (Melanau traditional dish with jellyfish), and ikan terubok goreng kering (dry-fried toli shad). Oh, don’t forget to conclude your meal with a refreshing bowl of sago gula apong!
Kek Lapis Warisan
Kek lapis demonstration at Kek Lapis Warisan.
For the Malay community in Sarawak, kek lapis is a staple during the Eid celebration and most of the time, it is considered a favourite souvenir for travellers to bring back home. Kek Lapis Warisan is one of the popular producers of this snack. It has over 30 types of kek lapis to choose from with prices ranging between RM10 and RM30. Interestingly, kek lapis produced here are of high-quality with no preservative used. Among the top-selling kek lapis are hati pari, lumut, masam manis, belacan, tiga serangkai and chocolate cheese. Tasters are available for travellers to nibble on before deciding the preferred flavours to buy. Oh, you can even witness and learn the painstaking process of making kek lapis here!
IG Aiskrim Gula Apong
Beat the heat by enjoying the toothsome ice cream drizzled with gula apong syrup! The distinctive, sweet taste of gula apong is truly satisfying that you might repeat rightly after. The gula apong ice cream is the shop’s all-time top-selling item but it also sells other luscious options like gula apong bubble milk tea with ice cream and gula apong ice cream with bubble served with toppings! Ais Krim Gula Apong has five branches spread across Kuching: Kuching Waterfront, Emart Batu Kawa, Eco Mall Semariang, Metrocity Square, and Jalan Satok.
Chong Choon Café
This humble eatery has many stalls serving different dishes under one roof. My friends and I tried three of them: Sarawak laksa, mee Jawa, and Hainanese thick toast, which all come recommended. No wonder this restaurant is generally packed with locals during breakfast!
Kubah Ria
This food court has more than a dozen stalls serving a myriad of local delights for travellers to dig in, ranging from seafood, the legendary mi kolok and a choice of Sarawak signatures to other Malaysian states’ specialities. At the same time, while dining, travellers can gaze at the panoramic view of the newly-rebuilt Satok Suspension Bridge that lights up in kaleidoscopic colours during the night!
Indah Café
Located in one of the time-honoured shophouses along the charming Carpenter Street, this café serves Sarawak-inspired cuisine. Established in 2014, among the recommended items include Nasi Lemak Daging Hitam, Ayam Kuah Satay Sandwich and Beef Bolognese Quesadilla. The café also holds an art gallery, event space, and cooking class, among others.
STAYCATION IDEAS IN KUCHING
• Astana Wing in Riverside Majestic http://riversidemajestic.com This new, upgraded wing (the other one being Puteri Wing) offers a premium stay experience with 272 modern and spacious guestrooms. Since it lies just next to the Sarawak River, travellers can take in the stunning panorama of Kuching Waterfront and its surroundings.
• Damai Beach Resort http://damaibeachresort.com This resort in Santubong has as 224 well-appointed rooms. It possesses two swimming pools as well; however, if that is still not enough, the resort has its own private beach with plenty of leisure activities.
WHILE IN KUCHING…
• Visit The Ranee Museum at The Old Court House https://www.brookegallery.org The exhibition follows the life of Margaret Brooke, the Ranee of Sarawak. It is inspiring to learn how she fell in love and found her purpose and identity in Sarawak. From her early life to legacy and contributions that she left behind, the exhibition is an eye-opening, great introduction to get to know Sarawak. Opens Monday to Sunday and Public Holidays from 9:00 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Admission fee is RM10 per local person and RM20 for non-local person. Alternatively, travellers can buy access to this museum as well as The Brooke Gallery at MYR15 for local person and MYR30 for non-locals.
• Visit The Brooke Gallery at Fort Margherita https://www.brookegallery.org Considered as a splendid continuation from the Ranee Museum, this iconic landmark built in 1879 overlooking Sarawak River, travellers can further learn about the Brooke family and the formation of Sarawak that we have come to know today. Travellers who are curious about what comestibles the Brookes consumed when they were in power may also ask the gallery staff for information. Opens Monday to Sunday and Public Holidays from 9:00 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Admission fee is RM10 per local person and RM20 for non-local person. Alternatively, travellers can buy access to this museum as well as The Ranee Museum at MYR15 for local person and MYR30 for non-locals.
• Walk around Main Bazaar Just a walking distance from Kuching Waterfront, travellers should pay a visit to this area as they can find shophouses selling variety of antiques, handicrafts, and souvenirs. Pay attention to the exquisite architecture that has been in place for generations and drop in at any of the quaint coffee shops within the are for a cup of coffee, or two.
An Orang Ulu performer playing the traditional musical instrument called sape at Sarawak Cultural Village.
• Join the cycling tour If travellers were still confused about where to start their journey in Kuching, this cycling tour comes highly recommended. With the help of a guide, travellers will be brought to landmarks around Kuching like the Square Tower, Darul Hana Bridge, and Masjid India Bandar Kuching; learn about the landmarks history; and take photos at each stop. Contact Paradesa Borneo at +6 08 223 8801 or visit https://paradesaborneo.com for more information.
• Visit Sarawak Cultural Village This award-winning living museum is best for travellers who want to learn about Sarawak’s major ethnic groups such as Iban, Bidayuh, Orang Ulu, Penan, Melanau, Malay, and Chinese all in one place. From the replicas of life-sized unique houses belonging to each ethnic group to food, traditional attires, musical instruments, dances and more, travellers are bound to spend hours exploring the entire village!
Gaya Travel Magazine team members extend our heartfelt gratitude to Tourism Malaysia Sarawak for turning our trip to Sarawak into reality and making the experience smoothsailing.
