Walk with me - Lucknow part I - Husssainabaad by Gaurav Patel

Walk with me

Sketches and illustration by Gaurav Patel

- By Gaurav Patel

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Acknowledgment First and foremost, I extend my heartiest gratitude to my urban design team Garima Agarval, Vidushi gupta, Meghna Verma and Saumya Gupta who we some amazing group mates who helped in the documentation of hussainabaad in our 9th sem urban design studio.

I also had the opportunity to work on CityLabs alongside Vaibhavi Dave that formed the first steps towards creating this book, and it was her that suggested the very name of this compilation, ‘Walk With Me’. All this came from me working as an intern for Pratyush Shankar, who showered me with his guidance and ideas at every step. His studio makes for an environment that motivates one to strive to be better constantly, and my growth under his guidance is unparalleled.

I would also extend my gratitude to my friend and brother, Nishant Arya, for always being there for me. I also can’t thank Aviral Singh, another brother, enough, for his iPad helped me create and move ahead with this book very smoothly. Last but not the least, my parents who have always supported my dreams and let me be whoever I wanted to be.

Walk

with me Gaurav Patel

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Walk Husssainabaad

The Husainabad precinct gains importance not only as the point of origin of Lucknow, but as a cultural link to what made this city the “City of Nawabs”. The fortified Macchi Bhawan once encompassed this whole area, on the southern side of which a flourishing market place called Chowk formed the old core of Lucknow. While the fort was demolished by the British long ago, traces of its magnificence can be seen from the monuments in the precinct the Imambadas, the grand doorways, the Satkhanda and the step well.

Today, this area is the main tourist hub of the city, and is bounded by dense settlements occupied by descendants of the Nawabs and the original inhabitants. This probably betrays most the situation of this historical precincts piece of past glories slowly being forgotten by it’s own residents

Saatkhanda Ali Darwaza Shaahi Talaab Hussainabaad Clock Tower Art Gallery Shia Community Ground Kudiya Ghaat

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5 1

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Saatkhanda

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2 Ali Darwaza 3 Shaahi Talaab 4 Hussainabaad Clock Tower 5 Art Gallery 6 Shia Community Ground

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Saathkanda

This building stands in the Precint of hussainabad, near the outer gate of the Chota Imambada. It is a four storied watch tower not seven stories unlike the name suggests.

It is an unfinised construction as after the death of the nawab Mohammad Ali Shah in 1847. Each of the floor is smaller than the last floor and the support of the floor dosen’t rest on the floor of the story but comes straight to the ground. It is said that it was inspied from the “Leaning Tower of Pisa”

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Ali Darwaza

9 Closest sibling to the Iconic Rumi Darwaza, just like the Rumi Darwaza it is the entry gate to the Chota Imambada complex, also this marks the entry to Hussainabad.

In my opinion, this is one of the most overlooked gateways as it is highly ornamented with mouldings and the level of intricacy can give Rumi Darwaza a run for it’s money.

In the Present-day one can only imagine how magnificent it would have looked in its prime, which is exactly what I’ve tried to capture in the drawing

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Shaahi Talaab

11 Shahi Talaab Area - TIMELINE

Clock tower Teele vala Masjid

The area between the 2 Imambadas was developed into a step well called Shahi Talaab, complete with a water

Rumi Darwaza

heating and distribution system.

The main entrance portico of the Baradari faces the river to facilitate the transport and movement by the river.

The Shahi Talaab also acts as a catchment area. The

Shahi Baradari

Road

surroundings are lush and green

Shahi Talaab

DURING NAWAB’S PERIOD

The Baradari has since been converted to a picture gallery. This revives both the historical knowledge and the building.

Teele vala Masjid

The area surrounding has been paved, clearing many of

Clock tower

the older trees. The lack of shade has subsequently leased Rumi Darwaza

footfall, especially in the day time and the summers.

The underground distribution channels have fallen into disrepair The natural drainage of the area to the Shahi Talaab is

Art Gallery

Road

disturbed due to which the water level remains very low.

Shahi Talaab

PRESENT CONDITION

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Hussainabaad Clock Tower

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It is located adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza, Bada Imambada and

Richard Roskell Bayne designed this structure, 67 metres (220

Teele Wali Masjid. Built-in the year 1881, Husainabad Clock Tower

ft) in height, and it reflects Victorian and Gothic style structural

is adjudged as the tallest among all the clock towers in India. it was

designs. Gunmetal is used for building the clock parts. Its

built as a replica to the Big Ben clock tower of London.

gigantic pendulum has a length of 14 feet, and the dial of the clock is designed in the shape of a 12- fully gold flower and bells around it.

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Art Gallery

15 Situated between the Hussainabad clock tower and Satkhanda, is this old Baradari

It preserves some life-size rare portraits of various Nawabs of Lucknow (previously

which is now being used as an art gallery. It was founded by Nawab Mohammad

known as Awadh). It is believed that these paintings were made on elephant skin

Ali Shah (the third Nawab of Awadh) in 1838. It is housed in a beautiful pink and

and the colour used was prepared from diamonds. These paintings also surprise

terracotta-coloured building which was earlier used as a royal summer house. It is

the viewers with their optical illusion because the subjects seem to look straight to

enclosed by wide verandas on the East and South sides. From its south side balcony

the viewer from almost all the angles. The pictures indicate the grand costumes and

(which is shown in the drawing) you get a majestic view of the Shaahi Talaab and

jewellery used by the Nawabs in those days. A talaab (water tank) was also built in

the old city in the backdrop.

front of it, after a year of its completion. It has a mosque and a pond overlooking it, which adds to the serenity and delight of the place. One enjoys the taste of intricate architecture and the royalty of the Nawabs through these paintings.

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Shia Community ground

SHIA COMMUNITY GROUND - TIMELINE

DURING NAWAB’S Ali Darwaza Chota Imambada

Open space for gathering and prayers

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Masjid

Courtyard

Gateway

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Entry gate

As shown in the map this masjid complex lies in the perfect symmetry with the heritage monuments around it. Therefore it was possible an active part of the heritage area in contrast to how it is in the now Masjid facing west the boundary wall oriented towards north-east for symmetry.

DURING BRITISH RULE After the Nawabs this area became prone to influx of people looking for place to build their houses.

Houses even started coming up inside the courtyard.

Chota Imambada

Masjid

Courtyard

Gateway

Ali Darwaza

Entry gate

PRESENT Houses abutting the boundary wall of the masjid complex

Narrow paved streets with no street lights.

Gateway to the main courtyard

Gateway to the courtyard from the main road in front of the Shahi Talaab Ali Darwaza

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Chota Imambada

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Masjid

Courtyard

Gateway

Entry gate

The area is surrounded with high density houses with small streets (around 14ft wide) The front towards the road is activated with commercial activities. While inner structures are houses.

Half of the court yard is covered with houses.

Monuments have started getting beat up, specially the Ali Darwaza and the gateway to this courtyards.

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Kudiya Ghaat

Rumi Darwaza

Kudiya Ghat - TIME-LINE The river Gomti as we know it was not a holy river like the Ganga. Lucknow was predominately was always home to the Nawabs, it was more like a highway for transportation and trade.

There was a Baradari on the banks of the river with decks protruding onto the river. This were docking points for the ships, boats etc.

Gomti river Baradari

During Nawab’s Rule

Water pollution on the ghat

Rumi Darwaza Residences crowd the Baradari.

New Pukka pul

Embankments

Gomti river Hanuman temple

Kudiya Ghat

Temple

As a result of over-site the Ghat contributes to the river pollution

Baradari

Settlements

Present Situation

Small informal commercial Activity also takes place, like selling of balloons, Tapris and small shops.

This is a result of both the houses and the local visitors to the ghat.

The Baradari now is abandoned. Currently used by Pradeshik Armed Constabulary (PAC)

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Thank you

to be continued....