EAT Magazine July | August 2021

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O OD | C U LT U R E

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JULY/AUGUST 2021

Welcome With this issue, we enter into our second pandemic summer. and EAT is buoyed up by the optimism, tenacity, and caring of our island. We talk to a long-time food service worker who has shifted his focus and started on a whole new career path. A brewery that has expanded into a new space and is adding to their presence and offerings. And a new resident in Victoria with some sweet ideas.

Our recipes run from sweet and cool with Jennifer Danter’s creamy popsicles to spicy snapper under Denise Marchessault’s guidance. And we’ve thrown in some meatballs and pickled veg for Rebecca Wellman’s dish inspired by a Banh Mi sandwich. EAT contributors have been out and about, finding new spots for you to try out and writer Adrien Sala had the “difficult” assignment of checking out the local ice cream scene.

This issue also marks my three-year tenancy as EAT’s editor-in-chief. I want to thank all those who have supported EAT through this phase. From the contributors to the advertisers to the readers, thank you for continuing on this journey with me. And thank you to our followers on Instagram, all 10,000 of you!

Cynthia Annett -Hynes

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REBECCA BAUGNIET

The weather is warming up, the province is opening up, and while slow and cautious seems to be the mood of the moment, by the time this issue hits the streets some small-scale events may even be shaping up for the summer. Late spring has seen a quiet return of winemaker dinners to some restaurants, and while we’ll likely still have to wait a year for our favourite summer food festivals to come back, there are still plenty of ways to get out and enjoy summer flavours with friends.

Farmers’ markets are back in full swing with appropriate Covid protocol in place to keep shoppers and vendors safe. James Bay Market runs 9am-3pm on Saturdays at the corner of Menzies and Superior. jamesbaymarket.com Moss Street Market runs Saturdays from 10am-2pm. You can find food and produce vendors spread out in Robert J. Porter Park and Brooke St. Park, while the crafter and artisan vendors are located in Sir James Douglas Elementary School schoolyard. mossstreetmarket.com The Esquimalt Farmers Market’s current location is in Bullen Field and runs Thursdays from 4.307.30pm. esquimaltmarket.com The Oaklands Sunset Market runs Wednesdays from 4.30-8.30pm. oaklands.life, and the Sidney Sunday Farmers Market takes place outside the Mary Winspear Centre on Sundays from 11am -3pm. sidneystreetmarket.com

Brunch Mon-Sun Happy Hour Thurs-Sun Dinner Thurs-Sun Pantry Mon-Sun

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Regional. Seasonal.

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Order the best food grown and made in the CRD in a curated or customized box.

Sign up for home delivery Victoria, View Royal, Langford, Colwood and South Saanich

WWW.SIFARMHUB.CA Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile.

John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

Summertime is synonymous with enjoying food outdoors, and there’s a new business bringing some style to your outdoor dining experience. Posh Picnics offers a luxury style picnic set up, featuring blankets, assorted pillows, picnic table and picnic basket, glassware, flatware, floral décor and more. poshpicnics.co You’ve probably already seen the beautiful offerings from White Heather Tearoom whiteheather-tearoom.com and the ready-to-go cheese, charcuterie, vegetable and fruit boxes from Boom + Batten. boomandbatten.com The Empress is also joining in the picnic fun with its “Lunch on the Lawn” menu. qattheempress.com The Inn at Laurel Point also has a gorgeous “Tea for Two” takeaway box. shop.laurelpoint.com Or try L’Apéro, that offers “Boards on the Go” aperocheeseexperience.com, Truffles Catering delivers grazing boxes to your door trufflescatering.net, and Little Jumbo’s popular picnic totes are online to order. littlejumbo.ca What happens when you combine a classic summer experience with 21st-century technology? You can now get a text message letting you know that The Ice Cream Truck is visiting your neighbourhood. Sign up at theicecreamtruck.ca, and you too can be notified whenever they’re driving by! Launched in August 2020, The Ice Cream Truck has locally made treats such as 49 Below, Cold Comfort and Mexipops on offer, as well as other ice cream truck classics.

Speaking of ice cream, Kid Sister has opened a mini outlet just around the corner from Empire Donuts.

Located at 230 Cook Street, selling pints, half-pints and paletas (popsicles). kidsistericecream.com

Also in the Cook Street Village, the food cart court is growing. Recent additions include Ciccio’s Cucina ciccios-cucina.business.site and a gluten-free wood-fired pizza cart from The Art of Slow Food. theartofslowfood.com/sourdoughpizza The Victoria International Wine Festival and Cheese and Meat Festival coordinators have launched the Islands Passport, a road map to the best wineries, distilleries, and cideries that Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands have to offer. shop.cheeseandmeatfestival.com/ products/islands-passport Briefly: Pluto’s has opened at their new location at 2709 Quadra St. plutos.ca YiFang Taiwan Tea Bubble Tea/Fruit tea has taken over the space previously occupied by Chatime on Douglas. yifangtea.ca Niche Grocerant is now open for in-store shopping and dining at #480-777 Royal Oak Drive. nichevictoria.ca Belle General has quickly become a snack stop favourite for downtown workers. bellegeneral.ca Yua Japanese Bistro has opened at 622 Fisgard St, offering a new take on traditional Japanese food. yuabistro.com Iluka Espresso is a beautiful new waterfront café offering summer vibes year-round on Portage Inlet. ilukaespresso.ca On the cover:

Blueberry Cheesecake Ice Pops

Photography:

Jacqueline Downey Recipe on page 30

Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events.

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JULY/AUGUST 2021

JULY/AUGUST

Sooke and Shirley

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Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/COPY EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Julie Pegg SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

Tom O’Neill REGIONAL REPORTERS

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Enthusiastic Eats

DAISY ORSER

FOOD IS LOVE

And there’s only one way to learn about the language of love in the kitchen, and that’s from someone who loves you.

THE LUCKIEST AMONG US have cherished memories of being in our grandmothers’ kitchens, at the apron strings as they say, learning the fine craft of nurturing from the masters of nurture, often with homemade cookie in hand.

I personally will move mountains to get my kids into grandma’s kitchen when she is canning salsa, pickling, or making homemade borscht. Anyone can learn to make jam, but there’s only one way to learn about the language of love in the kitchen, and that’s from someone who loves you.

When I was a teenager, my very favourite book was Like Water for Chocolate by Mexican writer Laura Esquivel. I was completely enamoured with the idea that we could relay our feelings through the food we prepare. To this day I believe this to be true, and though I may not be cooking your dinner, I hope you can feel the care that goes into sourcing the food we sell in our market. Usually, the effort put into feeding is loving, but on occasion I’ve wondered if my kids can taste how badly I did not want to pack their lunch, and if you want to hear a good story, ask my husband about our Italian dinner party forever remembered as “rage pasta.”

My very favourite memories revolve around food, and quite often when I say, “Do you remember that meal we had at that place,” what I mean is, “Do you remember what it felt like to be there, eating that food?” The meal may have been spectacular, but my food-memory is always heavily coloured by who I was with, the environment I was in, and why I was there; however, the food often gets all the credit, which is no accident.

As a business owner I find myself very motivated by the ambition that I can contribute to people’s food memories in a positive way, these being the very best memories of all. Personally, my treasured food experiences and memories are the building blocks of who I have become and am becoming.

This past year has brought the Root Cellar a gift as entrepreneurs—we are being reached out to by old friends, family, and past employees, inquiring on behalf of their young for job opportunities. I was recently delighted to learn that the daughter of a dear friend, former employee, and founder of Salt Spring Kitchen had moved here for university and stealthily applied for and acquired a position at our store unbeknownst to me. This sweet girl, who I held in my arms the day she was born, wanted to be hired on her own merits, not because of our history.

When I catch her working out of the corner of my eye, or I see the nephew of my high school friend, or the sibling of a former employee, my heart lights up.

I’m only 42, but I wonder: is this what grandmothers feel like with the young underfoot in their kitchens? When they witness their loved ones picking up the wooden spoon unasked? The sheer honour of being the passer-of-the-torch, the safe-keeper of the next generation’s love of food-learning?

I hope that everyone has a version of grandma’s kitchen somewhere in their lives; somewhere to learn about the values of mealtime, of the care put into feeding families and each other, of the rewards of sharing your love through the language of food. Not everyone has a grandmother, but as an entrepreneur, if I have built an environment where I can be a stand-in, I have truly arrived. Because food is love, and love is all you need.

Daisy Orser is co-owner of The Root Cellar Village Green Grocer 6

JULY/AUGUST 2021

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7

EATING WELL FOR LESS

ELIZABETH MONK

Take a slow food sojourn to Sidney by the Sea.

The Farmer’s Daughter

101-2360 BEACON AVE., NEAR FIFTH STREET, SIDNEY, BC, 778-351-3500

That menu is small but mighty, with categories of small bites, sharing boards, gooey grilled cheese, and wine and cheese flights. In the small-bite category, the Stuffed Medjool Date for $3 was very entertaining. The date is stuffed with St. Agur blue cheese and topped with chopped candied pecans. This is a clever deconstruction of the classic cracker, cheese, and chutney, with the pecans providing the crisp of a cracker, and the date providing the sweetness of a chutney.

It is almost impossible to choose between the three grilled cheese sandwiches on offer. Staying with the deconstruction theme, I went with the French Onion. This delectable sandwich is like a reverse French onion soup, with the usual toppings of Gruyère and bread becoming the stars instead of the accessories and the caramelized onions becoming a supporting player.

The sandwiches are $12, and a side of tomato soup brings it to $18. Do indulge in the soup—it is a rich purée of Pomodoro tomatoes presented with a swirl of basil oil.

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JULY/AUGUST 2021

ELIZABETH NYLAND

THE FARMER’S DAUGHTER FROMAGERIE could just as well be named “A Little Piece of France.” What feeling could be better than sitting on a patio in a beautiful arcade off Beacon Avenue and sampling from a cheese-based menu?

THE DUCK BOARD FE ATURES DUCK PROSCIUT TO, DUCK RILLET TE, AND A DUCK AND PORK NOISET TE SAL AMI. One of the sharing boards breaks with the cheese theme—it’s called the Duck Board. Duck prosciutto, duck rillette, and a duck and pork noisette salami are all sensational. The salami comes from Two Rivers Meats in Vancouver and in keeping with the French theme, the rich, buttery rillette is special-ordered from Quebec.

And yes, the owner is indeed a farmer’s daughter. Jessica Sommers-Dai was raised on a dairy farm in Ontario and had stopovers working in a wine store and studying at The Cheese School of San Francisco. Her experience has resulted in this superb small restaurant and fromagerie in Sidney.

Quince Café 104-2527 BEACON AVE., NEAR FIRST STREET, 250-656-1657

LIGHT, FRESH, AND LOCAL define Quince Café. This sweet little vegetarian café, complete with patio, offers soups, salads, sandwiches, and fantastic baked goods, and all the prices are very reasonable.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

ELIZABETH NYLAND

My soup of the day was Lemon Lentil with Spinach and Dill. This soup is very pretty, with dabs of orange carrot and green spinach floating in a yellow-hued soup, with flecks of dill as an accent. The lemon flavour says hello, but is not overwhelming. A small soup goes for $5.50, and a large one for $6.75. These come with a slice of Portofino bread.

As my sandwich, I had the Breakfast Biscuit. The soft, fluffy biscuit is made on site and is filled with creamy egg salad with a hint of green onion. At only $5, this is a very cheerful way to start the day.

The salads succeed at balancing flavours and textures. The fresh Kale Salad buoys cubes of roasted yam, and finely crumbled feta, cranberries, and sunflower seeds provide salt, sweetness, and crunch. The salad is lightly tossed with an apple cider Dijon dressing and costs $4.75 for a small and $6.00 for a large. At the same price, the Quinoa Salad is also much more complex than its name indicates.

Apple, pumpkin seeds, cranberries, and crumbled feta make each bite different, and the cumin and lemon dressing tops it perfectly.

K ALE SAL AD WITH ROASTED YAM, FETA, CR ANBERRIES, AND SUNFLOWER SEEDS AND THE QUINOA SAL AD WITH APPLE, PUMPKIN SEEDS, AND A CUMIN AND LEMON DRESSING. Owner Courtney Thomas is, like Jessica Sommers-Dai of the fromagerie, also a farmer’s daughter. She lives on a property that’s part of her parents’ blueberry farm and grows some of the vegetables used in the café, so her commitment to freshness runs deep.

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Food Matters

JULIE PEGG

HAVE RECIPES, WILL TRAVEL

With her travel adventures still curtailed, Julie Pegg is letting food magazines and websites take her to places she’s never been.

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10 JULY/AUGUST 2021

WRITING THIS ARTICLE IN the midst of Covid’s third wave had its challenges.

My culinary moods swayed enormously. One minute I was focused on making meals for when I can fully entertain again, poring over recipes no matter how much chopping, equipment, and washing up they required. The next moment I could barely think about boiling an egg. (Normally a perfectly cooked threeminute egg is pure eating pleasure for me.)

If you’ve not seen family, friends, and out-of-town visitors for over a year, you may be champing at the bit to cook for the gang. However, if the sourdough starter and the desire to make yet another crusty loaf has fizzled, and for the time being the bean pot and pasta maker have been stashed in favour of tearing into a loaf of Wonder bread, or tucking into KD, well, I’m not judging.

There’s no one-size-fits-all for how we’re to move forward when our culinary spheres expand once more. But I’m starting off by looking ahead to mid-summer’s delights: sweet/tart tomatoes, tender greens, and crisp cucumbers; green beans, peppery radishes, and pretty patty pan squash; bright red, yellow, and green sweet or hot peppers; corn fresh from the field; and potatoes of all sorts, shapes, and sizes. Even the ubiquitous zucchini. And the herbs! Oregano, marjoram, sage, parsley, chives, and thyme. And basil, of course, but also lemon verbena and shadeloving chervil and lovage. There will be peaches and berries and cherries galore.

What’s more, there’s little need to fire up the stove if you’re not up to cooking.

Come August my kitchen will be given over to flat upon flat of Roma tomatoes, hopefully from my annual Okanagan haul, for making Marcella Hazan’s slowsimmered, utterly simple and wonderful sauce. Fat ripe beefsteaks will get sliced onto burgers, or onto a baguette where all that’s needed is a sprinkle of olive oil or a slather of Hellman’s. Little yellow and red tomatoes will get a quick squish, pulp and juice to make shakshuka, ratatouille (along with all that zucchini), bruschetta, and no-cook pasta sauce. Crunchy Greek and Niçoise salads will make their usual seasonal appearances.

With travel still curtailed, food magazines and websites have taken me to places I’ve never been. Korea, for instance. Apart from punching up a bowl of rice or an egg scramble with scallions or spiking a particularly gooey grilled cheese with the country’s revered kimchi, I knew very little about the culture and cuisine of this East Asian peninsula.

I became increasingly drawn to the (mostly) Korean street food recipes that kept popping up during my literary quest for new dishes. What’s more, I noticed the use of ingredients that are at their best during July and August. And, bonus, the prep is pretty straightforward.

Maybe start with mayak kimbap (Bon Appetit, April 2021), much like traditional Japanese maki. Slivers of cucumber, carrot, radish, scallions, shredded spinach, Swiss chard, and/or whatever else you fancy are wrapped in sesame-oil-infused rice and nori (seaweed sheets). A simple dipping sauce of rice vinegar, soy sauce, Dijon mustard, and a pinch each of salt and sugar zip up the savoury roll. I could then rustle up a Korean-style omelette, known as gyeran-mari, folding carrots and scallions (or maybe yellow or red pepper, garlic chives, and zucchini) into the eggy mixture.

A vegan website with the delightful name The Curious Chickpea gave me a recipe for curly noodles tossed with matchstick-thin slices of raw patty pan squash and a peanutty gochujang (Korean chili paste) sauce. Delicious slurped hot or cold.

Meanwhile, juicy ripe tomatoes, assisted by fresh grated fresh ginger, go into making gochujang gazpacho. We bowl-food fans are happy making bibimbap.

(Specifically, bap refers to cooked rice or other grains, but for Koreans it can also allude to an entire meal or greeting. “Have you eaten bap?” is a way of saying hello.)

Fresh or pickled veggies, crisped tofu or chicken, and a nice jammy, golden-yoked egg are arranged on a bowl of cooked farro, quinoa, or other grains. A smattering of fresh herbs adds a nice savoury nuance.

Culinary spirit refreshed, I very much look forward to trying out these Korean treats (and adding my own touches) for friends when the time is right. Right now I’m off to boil a perfect three-minute egg.

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM / PINKOMELET

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Reporter

Bilston Creek Farm

4185 METCHOSIN RD., METCHOSIN (778) 533-7550 BILSTON.CA

The Metchosin lavender and honey farm does the pandemic pivot and is now open to the public for summer fun: pizza picnics, ice cream, and a well-stocked shop of house-made products.

PERHAPS ONE OF THE best-kept secrets of the pandemic is the amazing transformation that Bilston Creek Farm undertook amidst a swathe of wedding and private event postponements due to Covid restrictions. Situated a stone’s throw from Witty’s Lagoon Regional Park in Metchosin, Bilston is a sprawling farm that was originally established in 1851 and in the Witty family until 2001.

These days, it’s owned by Andrew and Melanie Penn—who bought the property in 2005 and used it as a private residence until 2018, when it was reimagined as a functional lavender farm that catered to private bookings while developing products made from the harvests of the property.

As a result of social distancing limitations, Bilston Creek Farm decided to reshape its offerings and is now open for the public to enjoy. The process of making a booking (required) is easy: simply visit bilston.ca and select a time slot that works for you. From there, you can pre-order some of the most popular items on offer from the on-site catering company, Bramble by Bilston. Offerings are seasonal, shifting from s’more kits and campfires in the winter to woodfire pizzas during spring and summer (pre-ordering isn’t required but highly recommended on some of the bigger ticket items).

“On the farm we manufacture almost everything we sell using the lavender and apples grown on the property,” says executive chef Sandi Irving. “And I

12 JULY/AUGUST 2021

One of the farm's lavender fields incorporate the key ingredients of honey, apples, and lavender into the menu design for all our events.”

There is homemade ice cream on site, as well as lavender tea and soda, lavender shortbread cookies—and a host of Bilston lavender products in the shop like hot chocolate mix, lavender rose tea, Bilston hand sanitizer, and so much more.

The farm also has an apiary and makes its own delicious local honey from bees foraging maple, blackberry, apple and lavender blossoms, and—later in the summer—high-country fireweed.

The Bilston property itself is dreamy, with large trees providing ample shade for picnics and a giant swing over the grass. The surrounding apple orchard is one of the oldest in BC, and the gorgeous wood-frame buildings for the shop and barn create an idyllic place to get horizontal and dig into freshly fired pizzas made with locally milled organic flour from Nootka Rose Milling in Metchosin. The pizzas are seasonal, and weekly toppings are sourced from local farms and butchers, with offerings such as the Farm + Foraged with local nettle cream, raclette cheese, The wood-fired pizza oven at Bilston oyster mushrooms, and asparagus—or the Ham, Artichoke and Fiore de Latte (Italian mozza) for meat lovers.

If you’re looking for something to do during a second pandemic summer, Bilston is a great option for anyone—a perfect date spot, a great getaway with friends, or a nice adventure with the family. For summer hours of operation for pizza picnics, checking the website ahead of time is best as the farm also hosts private engagements such as corporate dinners, retreats or birthday parties, depending on restrictions. ADRIEN SALA IMAGES COURTESY OF BILSTON CREEK FARM

Ha nd m a d e E thical L o cal Tra d itio nal

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A

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THEWHOL E B E AST. C A C U R E D @T H EWHOLEBEAS T.CA 13

Reporter

Wild Mountain Fire

1831 MAPLE AVE. S., SOOKE, 250-642-3596, WILDMOUNTAINDINNERS.COM

The award-winning Sooke eatery explores the comfort, power, and possibilities of cooking with fire in its new outdoor brick oven.

14 JULY/AUGUST 2021

JOHANN VINCENT

AMIDST LOCKDOWNS, SHUTDOWNS, LETDOWNS, and meltdowns, award-winning Wild Mountain chef Oliver Kienast was thinking about the comfort, power, and possibilities of cooking with fire. Now, more than 20,000 pounds of brick later, he and partner/sommelier/host/co-owner Brooke Fader welcome guests to explore their covered, brick, wood-fired oven, designed by award-winning Sooke mason Martin Swift.

Pull up a stool at the fireside bar as the restaurant serves up the next level of Wild Mountain local goodness.

“I grew up without any electricity and running water. Fire was a huge part of our lives,” Kienast shares. Two staggeringly gorgeous meals also fanned his ongoing attraction to cooking with fire. One was a “debaucherous” meal at Montreal’s Au Pied de Cochon, with a gigantic crispy steak cast-iron-cooked in a massive fire.

The other was a fire-cooked meal in Tulum, Mexico with Brooke Fader shortly before the pandemic. “It was a mix of the ocean and the wild and cooked on fire—I haven’t been able to let it go.”

Anticipate fire-roasted octopus, fish and fowl, root vegetables. Explore embertoasted foraged mushrooms and “real slow-fermented” breads. And, of course, there will be pizza. Tom Henry’s (Stillmeadow Farms in Metchosin) wheat will be

the crust’s cornerstone.

The brief menu celebrates both the very simple and the brave-curiosity.

Ingredients will include Marie Alice Johnson’s (ALM Organic Farms in Sooke) 30 varieties of tomatoes and Wild Mountain’s house-made charcuterie. On the wilder side, foresee a fish pizza with pickled herring and shaved octopus, smoked sablefish or clams.

Apart from the drive to The new outdoor wood oven at Wild Mountain. explore fire and provide more pandemic-proof options, the fire-burning oven is also a way to keep Chef and his team engaged and curious. “We’re on a food journey through the restaurant, all of us,” he states, co-captain of this heart- and food-fuelled team. Wild Mountain is unique in that they schedule based on what their team’s ideal work-life balance looks like. Brooke and Oliver fill in the gaps.

There are a few ways to enjoy Wild Mountain. You can order online, do takeout, pick up a few of their signature dressings, honey, and vinegars at Neighbourly in Victoria, or get yourself out there to Sooke and take in that patio and the fire. GILLIE EASDON

Reporter

Chocolate Coast

107-1753 SEAN HEIGHTS SAANICHTON 778-351-3311 ROCKCOAST.CA

From her tiny production centre in Saanichton, RockCoast owner Amber Isles makes exquisite chocolate and toffee creations.

Her business started part-time nine years ago when she began making what is still her bestseller: smoked salt English toffee with almonds. She smokes the salt herself over alderwood to soften the flavour of the salt. As her business grew, she gave up her veterinary technician job to launch full-time, and has been at the shop for two years now.

The shop in front of the production centre has many wonders. The chocolates include the Ruby Red Chocolate Melt. Ruby Red is a type of chocolate bean with a more tart profile, giving this chocolate a surprising brightness. And the Caramelized White Chocolate is a creative invention. Here the filling is a caramelized milk and sugar mix stirred with white chocolate, resulting in a very silky interior. If you prefer your chocolate chilly, RockCoast also has chocolatedrizzled salted toffee ice cream bars and cake.

RockCoast also hits it out of the park with its chocolate protein bars. The regular ones use Canadian-made, hormone-free whey protein mixed with chocolate, and there are vegan ones as well. The bars have 19 grams of protein and 12 grams of

ELIZABETH NYLAND

JOHANN VINCENT

SAANICHTON HAS A SECRET, and that secret is RockCoast Confections, where owner Amber Isles is creating chocolates, confections, and, interestingly, chocolatebased protein bars from a small but efficient production centre.

sugar, significantly less than some more well-known brands.

Where can you get RockCoast products? You can visit the storefront, order protein bars online, and go to various local grocery stores like Red Barn, Urban Grocer, Root Cellar, among others.

You can connect even more deeply with them and score yourself a free protein bar by signing up from July 1 to 15 for RockCoast’s virtual run to raise money for a hospital pledge fund. The fund will help families who cannot afford a pet’s medical bill—a clear sign that a little bit of the vet tech remains in the heart of this Saanichton chocolatier. ELIZABETH MONK

15

Liquid Assets

LARRY ARNOLD

A Wine for the Season Pink, in all its hues and flavours, is the colour of summer.

Tiberio Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo 2019 Italy $24.00 Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo is the new kid in the rosé category. It is a Montepulciano rosato, technically a rosé, but a wine endowed with much of the power and structure of its bigger red wine brother. Dark cherry red (Cerasuolo), it is veritably oozing with ripe cherry, strawberry, and spice aromas. Robustly flavoured, with great complexity and structure, there is little subtlety within the inky depths of this hearty Cerasuolo from the Italian heartland. It is blessed with abundant fruit, impeccable balance and lip-smacking deliciousness.

Côté Mas Rosé Aurore Pays d’Oc UGP 2020 France $15.00 Domaine Paul Mas Aurore Rosé is without a doubt the best value pink wine, sold in a litre bottle in British Columbia. A standard blend of grenache, cinsault, and syrah, sourced from the Languedoc region of the south of France, Aurore is very pale, very pink, redolent with ripe cherry and strawberry scents and flavours, and nicely balanced with a clean cut of refreshing acidity. Delicious!

Protea Dry Rosé Coastal Region 2020 South Africa $15.00 A blend of mourvèdre, cinsault, grenache, carignan, shiraz, and a great deal of panache, this plucky little peachy-salmon-hued rosé from the Coastal Region of South Africa is definitely worth seeking out. Dry and aromatic, its ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours persist through the finish. Very clean and fresh.

Sandhill Rosé, VQA 2020 Okanagan Valley $20.00 This blend of gamay, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon is a gorgeous pink grapefruit colour with delicate strawberry, peach, and melon aromas. Very refreshing on the palate with juicy fruit flavours.

Ryder Estate Pinot Noir Rosé Central Coast 2020 California $20.00 Fermented and aged in stainless steel after just eight hours of skin contact, Ryder Estate Pinot Noir Rosé is pale pink, dry, and utterly refreshing with bright strawberry and cherry scents on the nose and through the palate. Lush and tangy with a quirk of saline minerality and slash of juicy acidity.

PATIO PERFECT Small Plates, Big Views

PLUS WEEKENDS Brunch 11:30am–3:30pm Happy Hour 3:30pm–5:00pm

Fabre Côtes De Provence Rosé AOP 2018 France $23.00 Fabre is the largest family-run estate in the south of France, with more than 550 hectares of vineyards. This grenache, syrah, cinsault blend is a classic example of the rosés of Provence. Very pale, very light, and delightfully refreshing, it has subtle strawberry, cherry, and peach flavours. Soft and fruity with crisp acidity and a clean, dry, minerally finish. A few bottles with friends on the patio and you will feel as if you’re sitting on a terrace in the heart of the Côtes d’Azur. The following morning maybe not so much!

Barbebelle Rosé Fleuri Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOP 2020 France $20.00 I am almost certain we have all heard of the pink wines of Provence, but did you know there are three sub-regions to consider when looking for something not quite red but more colourful than white? They are Côtes de Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, and, finally, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. The latter is considered by many to be the source of the most minerally, refreshing, and complex rosés of the region, and Fleuri does not disappoint. This standard blend of grenache, cinsault, and syrah is salmon-pink and very forward with bright floral, raspberry, and passionfruit aromas. Delicate and light, its soft fruit flavours are accompanied by a cool saline tang.

Rathjen Cellars Traditional Method Sparkling Rosé NV Vancouver Island $39.00 Rathjen Cellars is a very pleasant addition to the cadre of wineries located on the Saanich Peninsula. The sparkling rosé is made in the same labour-intensive way as Champagne, and its dark pink colour and tiny persistent bubbles make it as lovely to behold as it is to drink. Very fresh with a long dry finish.

Chateau Musar Jeaune Rosé Bekaa Valley 2018 Lebanon $25.00 Chateau Musar is Lebanon’s most famous winery and for good reason. It’s still standing and cranking out world class wine despite the chaos and strife that surrounds the winery and vineyards each and every day. The Jeune Rosé is a blend of cinsault and mourvèdre made to be enjoyed as quickly as you can pull the cork. Salmon pink with more than a whisper of ripe strawberries and eastern spice on the nose. Great structure with juicy fruit, good acidity, and slight blush of tannin. *Prices may vary and do not included tax and deposit.

READY TO GRILL SLATER'S HOUSEMADE BURGERS AND SAUSAGES Quality meats, Poultry, Cheeses, Specialty Products & Condiments

OPEN DAILY FOR Breakfast 7:00am–11:00am Dinner 5:00pm–9:00pm

16 JULY/AUGUST 2021

Inn at Laurel Point 680 Montreal St aurarestaurant.ca @aurayyj • #EatAtAura

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

Salt Spring Island

Escape to the island. Slow down. Cook dinner at a cottage on the lake. Walk the beautiful, wooded trails or visit the many boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and cafés in Ganges. Take in the Tuesday and Saturday markets.

Cross the sea to our beautiful island. It's closer than you think.

Photo: John Cameron

EM 25-04 - V2 SSI ChamberOfCommerce 1/6

Eat. Play. Shop.

STAY! stop here first!

A message from the

121 Lower Ganges Rd. 250 537 5252 saltspringtourism.com

rhubarb designs

UNCOMMON GOODS

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Grace Point Square Unit 3107 rhubarbdesigns.com 250.537.8873 17

18 JULY/AUGUST 2021

Fol Epi's chocolate and frozen yogur t swirl

Ice cream sandwich balancing act from Cold Comfor t

Waves of gelato flavours at Ot tavio's

A selection of pints from 49 Below

Screaming Good!

It’s good to know that no matter how strange life gets, there is always ice cream—and locally made, at that.

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hen I was a boy growing up in rural Manitoba, ice cream was a fairly simple affair. There were shakes, storebought sandwiches, soft-serve, and classic cones with standard flavours like chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. During the early-’80s, the most adventurous option we could find was giant four-litre tubs of “tiger”—a very Canadian mix of orange-flavoured ice cream with black liquorice swirl—or bubble gum. Given a sales pitch on either of those today, it’d be a hard pass for me. Ice cream has evolved far beyond tiger to become even more adventurous—and I’m here for it. Unique ingredients and collaborations between breweries, peanut butter companies, local farms, and ice cream shops are commonplace—and there is no end of non-dairy options for those of us who won’t tolerate cream.

As we head into another strange summer, I feel as if it’s worth knowing what is out there for ice cream these days. While some restrictions are being removed, being outdoors is still the best option—and what better way to enjoy being outside than with a cold cone, bowl, sandwich, or cup of delicious, locally made ice cream?

Cold Comfort (1115 North Park St.) Right in the heart of North Park, Cold Comfort is a favourite outing for many. Available from the canteen window alongside the creamery in the summer, it’s a great spot to experience some neighbourhood vibes. With high-quality ingredients like organic B.C. cream, fresh eggs from happy island hens, fairtrade sugar and chocolate, fresh fruit and seasonal flowers and herbs—as well as plant-based coconut milk concoctions—Cold Comfort has something for everyone. Their adjacent store, CoCo’s Provisions, also offers products from other local producers.

Highly recommend their collab with Hoyne Brewing’s Dark Matter.

Fol Epi Yates (732 Yates St.) Offering an all-organic rotation of ice creams and dairy-free sorbets, Fol Epi Yates has a rotating range of flavours that include items like dairy-free chocolate, rhubarb elderflower, lemon meringue, and salted caramel—as well as the classics. The sorbet and ice

W OR D S

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Adrien Sala

Jacqueline Downey they also supply several stores in the region.

Kid Sister (230 Cook St.) Formerly found in Fan Tan Alley, Kid Sister now has a mini-outlet in Cook Street Village, around the corner from Empire Donuts, where you can pick up pints, half-pints—and homemade popsicles! Flavours range from lemon meringue and tiramisu to chocolate fudge ripple, London fog, and local strawberry. The dulce de leche popsicle (paleta) is definitely worth a sample too.

Paletas from Kid Sister cream here are a great addition to baked goods and perfect for a stroll—or a nice option to round out a meal of the fabulous pizzas coming out of their awardwinning restaurant, Agrius. Side note: Fol Epi at Dockside has the option for self-serve vegan chocolate and frozen yogurt as well, served in a homemade waffle cone.

Burger Crush (787 Fort St.) Some things are born to go together: peanut butter and jelly, wine and cheese, and, of course, burgers and shakes. Burger Crush has become known for its fabulous shakes, which are the perfect pairing to their burgers—including the vegan options they offer.

Available at the storefront location on Fort Street, as well as in the food truck (usually parked on the corner of Mason and Cook streets), these classic shakes come in strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate, as well as root beer float and orange crush flavours. All five flavours are made in-house and can be either dairy or vegan.

Parachute Ice Cream (2626 Bridge St.) Located in Rock Bay and now at a second location in the Westshore, 735 Goldstream Ave., Parachute Ice Cream takes pride in doing as much as possible in-house. That means making things from scratch like the brownies that go in the Brown Butter Brownie Ice Cream, the rhubarb compote and crumble for their Rhubarb Crumble ice cream, and the fresh, handchopped mint for the Mint Dark Chocolate. Offering “walk-thru” scoop service from noon to early evening,

49 Below (your house) Not feeling like venturing beyond your doorstep? No problem. 49 Below has a subscription delivery service that will satisfy both your introversion and ice cream cravings. A subscription gets you two pints a month of ever-changing exotic flavours like Hawkin’s Cheezies, Sriracha, or bacon/banana and peanut butter. There are also classics included in the delivery too (vanilla, chocolate, mint chocolate, etc.), as well as some seasonal options.

Mosi Gelato (569 Johnson St.) For those in the know, Mosi Gelato is an absolute must. Two years ago, this local gelateria and bakery won best flavour for its Seamist gelato at the Los Angeles Gelato Festival. The award-winner, made with Silk Road Seamist Green Tea, combines hints of seaweed, fresh mint, and lime juice. Located in a small but thriving shop on lower Johnson Street, the classic gelatos are perfect for a mid-shopping break, with flavours like Fatso peanut butter, lemon, raspberry, chocolate, and more—and they’ve got another location at 5303 W. Saanich Rd. that’s worth the trip.

Beacon Hill Drive-in (126 Douglas St.) Beacon Hill Drive-in is a stalwart classic deserving of everyone’s attention for its enduring commitment to traditional drive-in culture. A big menu with plenty of soft-serve options that can be ordered from the window, it’s a personal favourite. I know it’s officially summer when I’ve downed a large chocolate-dipped vanilla swirl in the front seat of my car.

Note: Many of these purveyors also supply local stores and it’s worth checking out their websites or Instagram accounts for details on where else to find them.

19

Masterclass

Keep it Simple This Summer R ECIPE + T E X T

S T Y L ING • PHO T OGR A PH Y

Denise Marchessault

Deb Garlick

When garden veggies are at their peak and fish is on the menu, there’s no better time for simplicity in the kitchen.

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Snapper is dusted with an aromatic blend of smok y paprika, chilli powder and freshly ground cumin and coriander. reshly caught fish and just-picked corn are two of my favourite summer ingredients, and they’re a breeze to cook. Add a side of savoury stuffed tomatoes and you have a meal worthy of company yet simple enough to whip up anytime.

One of the easiest and most flavourful ways to cook white fish (snapper, cod, or halibut) is to dust it with spices and pan-fry it. In this recipe, fresh snapper is coated with an aromatic mixture of smoked paprika, chili powder, and freshly ground cumin and coriander. To experience the true intensity of spices, purchase them whole and grind them with a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder.

Pan-frying fish is as simple as it sounds, but be mindful of a few things: bring fish to room temperature before adding it to a sizzling-hot pan. And for the love of fish, don’t crowd the pan. Otherwise, you’ll end up steaming rather than frying it. For the most succulent fish, remove it from the heat and tent it with foil just before it’s done. The residual heat will take care of the rest.

Fish has many great partners, but grilled summer corn is one of its finest pairing.

(This from a gal who could eat fresh-picked corn every day and never tire of it.)

There are many ways to cook corn, but grilling it, in its husk, is a fine way to keep it moist and sweet. The heat from the grill and the corn’s protective husk steams the kernels. Some recipes call for pre-soaking the corn, but I don’t bother with 20 JULY/AUGUST 2021

this extra step if the corn is super fresh. I place the corn in their husks directly on a heated barbecue grill, turn the cobs now and again, and in about 25 minutes they’re cooked to perfection.

Corn is most flavourful within three days of harvest. Here on the island, it’s easy to buy direct from the farmer, but if you don’t have that option, look for corn with tassels that are light, sticky, and moist, not dark or dry. When you peel back the husks a bit, the tip should reveal plump and tightly packed kernels.

The season also brings an abundance of tomatoes, and although I enjoy them simply with a sprinkling of salt, there are plenty of creative ways to prepare them.

Stuffed tomatoes are a great option for rounding up leftovers such as cooked rice and bits of cheese. In this recipe, small tomatoes are stuffed with a heady mixture of caramelized onions, briny olives, kale, tangy goat cheese, toasted walnuts, and a hint of sweet raisins. The filling is so flavourful you’ll want to stuff everything from Portobello mushrooms to sweet peppers. Stuffed tomatoes last a few days in the fridge, so prepare them when you’re in the mood for cooking and enjoy them when you’re not.

Cooking doesn’t need to be complicated to taste great. When vegetables are at their peak and fish is on the menu, there’s no better time to keep it simple.

Mini tomatoes make sweet-sized savour y appetizers or side dishes.

Spicy Pan-fried Snapper

Serves 2.

2 fillets of snapper, cod or halibut, about 6-7 oz each, bones and skin removed 2 tsp freshly ground cumin 2 tsp freshly ground coriander 2 tsp chili powder* 2 tsp smoked paprika (mild) ½ tsp sugar 1 tsp kosher salt 1-2 Tbsp vegetable oil Fresh lemon slices

Heat the oil in a medium non-stick skillet. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the spiced fish, being mindful not to crowd the pan. Cook just until the edge of the fish start to brown, about three to four minutes, depending on the size of your fish. Turn over and cook until almost done, about 2-3 minutes, depending on the thickness. Remove from the heat and cover loosely with foil. (The residual heat will continue to cook the fish.)

When ready to serve, pour the pan juices over the fish and serve with fresh lemon wedges.

Stuffed Tomatoes

*not to be confused with ground chili peppers

Makes 12 small stuffed tomatoes.

Bring the fish to room temperature and blot any moisture with a paper towel. In a small bowl, combine the spices, sugar, and salt.

12 small (about 2-inch diameter) ripe tomatoes*, such as Campari, about 1½ pounds 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 2 medium onions, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely minced 1½ tsp sweet smoked paprika 4 cups finely chopped kale 1 cup cooked brown rice, spelt or farro ¼ cup (about 16) kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped 2 anchovies, rinsed and finely minced 1 tsp hot sauce, such as sriracha ½ tsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar ½ cup toasted walnuts 1 Tbsp finely chopped raisins 2 Tbsp soft cheese, such as goat cheese

Place the fish on a sheet of parchment or waxed paper and scatter half the spice mixture over the fillets. Turn the fish over and sprinkle the remaining spice mixture over the fillets.

Grilled corn is best enjoyed within three days of har vest.

*select same-sized tomatoes to ensure even cooking You’ll need an oven-proof dish to bake the stuffed tomatoes.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Tomatoes Slice off the tops of the tomatoes and reserve. Using a spoon or melon baller, carefully scoop out and reserve the flesh, seeds and liquid, being mindful not to damage the tomatoes. If your tomatoes are toppling over, carefully slice just enough from the base to keep them upright.

Chop the reserved flesh and set aside (along with the seeds and liquid) for the filling.

Filling Heat the oil in a large pan or Dutch oven and fry the onions over medium heat until golden, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Add the garlic and stir continuously for half a minute or until the garlic is aromatic. Add the reserved tomato and smoked paprika and cook until the tomato has reduced and no liquid remains.

Add half the kale and cook until reduced, then add the balance, stirring occasionally to prevent burning.

When all the kale has reduced, add the remaining ingredients and mix until well combined. Taste the filling, and season with additional vinegar or salt, if desired.

Using a small spoon, carefully stuff the tomatoes with the filling being careful not to damage the tomatoes. (I find it easier to hold the tomato in one hand and spoon the filling with the other.) You should have enough to mound the filling just over the top of the tomatoes. Add the reserved tomato tops, if desired.

Transfer the tomatoes to the ovenproof dish and cover loosely with foil.

Bake for about 20 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft but still holding their shape. Remove the foil the last 5 minutes of cooking.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

21

Daniel Mason and stitching together a business from scratch.

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Adrian Paradis

Johann Vincent

o some, aprons might invoke associations of frilly flower prints and a 1950s aesthetic. Not that there’s anything wrong with flower prints and a wholesome grandmother aesthetic, but to the initiated, a clean, crisp apron has been a sign of professionalism in crafts and trades for centuries. Looking into an open kitchen, it’s common to see a team wearing stylish matching aprons with embossed logos, and at least one particularly snazzy individual who splurged on a custom design. This is where Daniel Mason and 80 Stitch Aprons come in.

Mason has been in the restaurant industry for 11 years, three of them in Victoria working in locations such as the Oak Bay Marina, the Village Butcher, and, more recently, The London Chef helping to teach cooking classes.

Having worked in kitchens for more than a decade, he’s familiar with the envy of seeing a co-worker arrive at work with a shiny new custom apron.

80 Stitch Aprons presented a way for Mason to still have a part in the industry he loves, but now he’s using the connections and experience he gained from a new perspective. All of Mason’s aprons are custom-made. They start with a conversation to help him understand what his client wants and from there he makes something unique. Customers choose between denim or leather fronts as well as variations of straps and colours. On the inside of each apron is usually a print fabric tailored to the client— something personal to them. Everything from citrus fruits to motor bikes have appeared on the reverse of his aprons.

Part of the appeal of 80 Stitch Aprons is the underground nature of them. Mason’s popularity is due mostly to word-of-mouth, making his work something of a rare commodity and all the more alluring. “I haven’t had a ton of time to promote the business, I’ve been too busy sewing,” he says.

“People just see these aprons and love them, so

Mason started 80 Stitch Aprons in the early days of 2020, not knowing it would soon be his sole occupation. When the pandemic affected his employment at the time, he pivoted (as so many did in 2020) to sewing custom aprons and masks full-time. “My dad used to sew my mom’s maternity clothes in Northwest Territories because they didn’t have the stores around there,” says Mason. “I went to him, and he taught me the basics of sewing. I started practicing and making aprons and eventually got to where I am now.”

The finished product!

22 JULY/AUGUST 2021

Mason set up a small studio and spent a long time making aprons for himself before he was confident enough to sell anything. “I was constantly working on it,” he says. “I was watching videos and talking to people who have experience in the industry and learned that way. I’ve always loved the cooking industry and I wanted to stay in it somehow.

But I didn’t know if I’d make it as a chef.”

Denim front apron in progress

it seems a bit exclusive right now.” Because of the custom nature of Mason’s aprons, the price for one of his pieces will vary. A custom denim apron will start at $175, and the leather options will be more expensive from there.

Adding to the appeal of these aprons is the emphasis on sustainable and local materials. Mason says he is using locally sourced leather from Pat Bay Leather Ltd. and almost all his materials are sustainable— cotton instead of polyester and brass fittings on his leather, which is easier to recycle than aluminum or steel. Everything he makes is stylish but also long-lasting.

Mason points out that cooking as a career has not always been viewed as a glamorous or popular undertaking; however, much like aprons, there has been a shift in this perspective in recent years.

The rise of celebrity chefs and big TV personalities brought a level of spectacle and style to the industry.

“In an open kitchen or a fine dining restaurant, you want to show off a bit and have a nicer apron,” says Mason.

Daniel Mason of 80 Stitches Aprons

Donning a crisp clean apron will likely continue to be a universal sign of hard work and

Back detail on an apron professionalism, but the style of the garment itself will no doubt continue to change. And while Mason’s pieces are probably not your typical 1950s grandmother’s aprons, they could likely come close if you asked him.

23

Expansion and Distillation, the Driftwood Way The innovative Esquimalt brewery is getting it all together on Viewfield Road.

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Gillie Easdon

Lillie Louise Major

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or the past three years, Driftwood Brewery has been on the lookout for a build-to-suit space to launch the next step in its evolution. The vision? To unite the canning, brewing, distribution, packaging, sales, and storage departments and their teams, which had been spread over three locations and 45,000 square feet in Victoria over the past years. But that’s not all. They’re also stepping into distilling and opening a kickass tasting room with a nano brewery and food. For their dedicated and many fans, this is deeply exciting. But for the whole team, it’s an opportunity to reconnect in a single space, re-energize, and dive into some tasty times together.

“It’s all about the people, bringing the team together, and finally giving our customers something they deserve. The synergy is so great and releases our potential to showcase what we can be,” says Gary Lindsay, Driftwood co-owner and “Purveyor of Precious Liquids.”

Location, Location Securing ample space with the proper zoning was a challenge. Plus, the four owners wanted to stay central to keep their killer team, maintain their devoted shop customers, and welcome Greater Victoria to a Driftwood-calibre in-house and on-the-patio experience. In mid-2020, they signed a lease to take over all 59,000 square feet of 836 Viewfield Rd., beside Canadian Wholesale Club in Esquimalt, where their canning and bottling line occupied 20,000 square feet. The stage was set with a massive blank canvas and cooperative landlords. Key players?

24 JULY/AUGUST 2021

The Driftwood team (including the recent return from Scotland of past brewer now master distiller Brendan Cook), Dumpling Drop, and Edda Creative—a trifecta of excellence.

Entering the site, past the temporary shop and office, I face a storey-high wall of White Bark cans. Factory-printed cans are a fifth the cost of sleeves, but you must purchase 155,000 of them. So, although the storage is functional, wandering through this dramatic landscape of fantastic artwork by Hired Guns Creative’s Richard Hatter is still awe-inspiring. Plus, it articulates the size of the space, like seeing a person as a pinpoint on the far side of a canyon.

Driftwood is buzzing with energy, and there is a striking cult-classic vibe as most of the crew are decked out in their signature “Raised by Wolves” fanged-maw Covid masks. The property has been meticulously fitted and includes slanted floors for drainage for the beer tanks, controlled temperature for the sours, temperature fluctuation for the coming spirits, an “every brewers’ dream” cellar for storage, and more.

Kindred Spirits And now, onto the spirits of things. “The success of the beer is in the entire collaborative process,” says Jason Meyer, Wizard of Wort, co-founder, co-owner, beer recipe writer, and spirits champion. “Writing a good recipe is just one small part of our success.”

For the last year, Meyer has been studying distilling.

An avid researcher who thrives on mastering wherever curiosity takes him, he finds tapping into the “deep well of many traditions in distillation” brings his fierce intellect joy. “You can build with brewing, but [distilling] is a whole new world that is humbling.”

In November 2020, Driftwood hired Master Distiller Brendan Cook, who had worked on the Driftwood team as a brewer for four years before heading off to Scotland to pursue distilling for the next four years. While Cook was in Scotland, he worked with Glendronach, which won World’s Best Whisky from the San Francisco Spirit Awards in 2020. He also worked at Benriach, where he worked on a full portfolio rebrand, where all expressions were awarded Double Gold from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2021. Lastly, he worked with Glenglassaugh, which reopened in 2008 after being closed for more than 20 years. In 2020 it released its first 10-year-old casks and is taking off with its nonaged core whiskies, along with 30 and 40-year-old expressions. Reflecting from Vancouver quarantine, Cook says his most significant time was spent with Benriach master blender Dr. Rachel Barrie, “If there were a Mount Rushmore of whisky makers, her face would be on there twice.”

Meyer will collaborate on ideas with him.

Taste Testing Over the last years, several local breweries have opened tasting rooms, great places to explore new flavours and a way to connect with people directly.

Driftwood, however, did not have room at the brewery on Hillside Avenue. Now, with more than 14,000 square feet of extra space, the possibilities are endless.

The tasting room, opening later this year, will have 32 taps, plenty of room for experimental nano brews and small-batch distillations to share with their guests.

The team is intent on showcasing other purveyors’ fine beverages as well. There will be 60 seats indoors and a patio with 60 seats outside. Viewfield is part of an industrial area, but the patio plan is flush with gorgeous gardens, an elegant pergola, and a beautiful fountain. Again, true to Driftwood form, they don’t follow trends but rather their own fixed course for the ubiquitous pursuit of quality. Guests can sit back and settle in as they weigh in on exclusive brews and spirits. Plus, they can dig into Tarn Tayanunth’s pillow-soft, savoury dumplings and sumptuous chili oil minutes from downtown, just off the Galloping Goose.

Though he was offered three top master distiller positions in Scotland, he and his partner wanted to return to Vancouver Island. When Jason Meyer called, Cook was thrilled. “I stayed in touch with a lot of the Driftwood team. I loved working there before. Also, BC and Canada are behind in the gin boom. I’m excited to create gins that are distinctly BC, tied to a sense of place—with the gin, and, when we get to it, whisky.” Unlike elsewhere, all ingredients for BC spirits must be from BC, a challenge and a compelling restraint for a creative master. Cook and his serious chops will be the creative lead for all distills, and Jason

As I approach the cash at the shop to pick up a Cry Me a River Gose and a Gravity Haze IPA, I chat with Braeden Papp, also known at times as the God of Growlers. He shares his thoughts about the move. “At first, I was apprehensive—how will they find us?” He laughs, “Everyone found us. It’s great to all be together finally, to be able to walk over to the person and ask a question instead of sending an email,” he explains. As I head out, sales maven and Victoria favourite Marika Veldink hauls a case of Fat Tug to the loading dock, cheering, “Dream team!” Kudos to Driftwood 2.0. My taste buds and I can’t wait to explore a whisky and some spicy beef dumplings with chili oil in a garden by a fountain with you soon.

Coming soon

Jason Meyer (L) and Brendan Cook (R) 25

Lemongrass Meatball Rice Bowls

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

B

Rebecca Wellman

anh Mi is a delicious traditional Vietnamese sandwich that is typically made with a protein (often pork), pickled and fresh vegetables, a good amount of spice, and a creamy sauce. It is built with layers of flavours, and covers the sweet, savoury, spicy, sour, and umami profiles that are some of my very favourite combinations.

I’ve taken inspiration from these flavours and have put them in a bowl, piled over scented rice, and topped with a variation of fresh herbs.

The meatballs here are made with a mix of pork and beef, but you can use whatever you like, modifying cooking time if necessary. Sliced tofu also works well (see the May June issue of EAT Magazine for my tofu cooking tips). Note that you may have more meatballs than you will need to serve. However, once cooked, these freeze very well. Thaw in the fridge before heating in the oven or microwave, and making this dish all over again!

If you are making any of these components in advance, be sure to refrigerate until ready to use.

26 JULY/AUGUST 2021

Meatballs

1½ kg (3.25 lb) ground meat (pork, beef, turkey or a combination) 1 large egg 2 tsp coconut sugar or brown sugar 2 Tbsp finely minced lemongrass *see tips Zest of 2 limes, grated 2 garlic cloves, grated 2½-inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp fish sauce 1 Tbsp tamari Few grinds black pepper Heat the oven to 350°F and line a large rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, mix all of the meatball ingredients until well blended. Using wet hands, form into 15-18 meatballs and place on the prepared sheet pan. Bake for 20-35 minutes, depending on size and type of meat used. The internal temperature of beef, pork or turkey meatballs should be 165°F.

Pickled Veg

Rice vinegar or white vinegar 1 tsp granulated sugar ½ tsp salt Few grinds black pepper 3 large carrots, spiralized or grated 4-6 radishes, thinly sliced 1 long English cucumber, cut into matchsticks While the meatballs are cooking, quick-pickle the vegetables. Add about 1 cup of vinegar to a medium bowl. Stir in the sugar, salt, and pepper, until dissolved.

Add the vegetables, submerging them into the liquid as much as possible. Top up with more vinegar if necessary. Adjust sweetness and saltiness to your taste.

Alternatively, you can pickle only one or two vegetables, and keep the other(s) fresh.

Rice

1 Tbsp coconut oil 600 mL Thai jasmine rice ½ tsp salt 2 bay leaves 1 stalk lemongrass, cut into 3 pieces 1 litre chicken stock Cook the rice. In a medium pot over medium heat, melt the coconut oil. Stir in the rice, salt, bay leaves, and lemongrass, ensuring the rice is well coated with oil. Turn the heat to high and continue to stir constantly for about 2 minutes. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, leaving the lid on and let set for 10 minutes.

Remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork.

Sauce

1½ cups best quality mayonnaise 1 tsp tamari 1-2 tsp lime juice Sriracha or sambal oelek to taste Make the sauce. Combine the mayonnaise, tamari, and lime juice. Add a touch of either of the hot sauces, taste, and add more if desired.

Toppings

Thinly sliced scallions Fresh mint Fresh cilantro Lime wedges Crushed roasted peanuts Spoon the rice into serving bowls, top with meatballs, pickled vegetables, sauce, and a generous smattering of toppings. Serve immediately.

The ingredients to build your bowl.

LEMONGRASS TIPS

Young, fresh, and tender lemongrass can be hard to come by, and the ones we get in the grocery store are often dry. It’s important to peel away several layers and get to the thin and more-tender inside, otherwise you will end up with some slivery, woody bits in your meatballs. You do have to buy a fair bit of lemongrass to get enough for this recipe, but there are some solutions.

If you can’t find or don’t want to use lemongrass, use finely minced fresh lemon verbena leaves (an excellent addition to your garden) or a combination of lemon and lime zest. (Lemon balm could also work.)

Another alternative is to chop the lemongrass stalks into ¼-inch rounds and place on a parchment-paperlined sheet pan. Set your oven as low as it can go (100°F is ideal, but often ovens only go as low as 170°F. If you have a dehydrator, even better!) Leave the lemongrass in the oven overnight, or until they are completely dried out. Once totally cooled, chop them into a powder in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Use about a tablespoon of powder for the meatballs. The unused portion will keep in a sealed jar for a few months.

27

on i s s a P y A r t s a W P for

Executive pastry chef Tony Velinov has followed his love of creating desserts from Europe to Newfoundland and across the country to the Empress.

WOR D S

PHO T OGR A PH Y

R ECIPE

Cinda Chavich

Lillie Louise Major

Tony Velinov

This luscious strawberr y and rhubarb gallet te is the creation of Fairmont Empress E xecutive Pastr y Chef Tony Velinov 28 JULY/AUGUST 2021

hen Tony Velinov was growing up in Bulgaria, his father told him to follow his passion—and that passion was chocolate.

“I really love chocolate,” says the new executive pastry chef at Victoria’s Fairmont Empress, “and the closest thing to working with chocolate was pastry school.”

From that first diploma in pastry and confectionary in his hometown of Sofia, to a Master Patisserie and Chocolate course in Brussels, Velinov has followed his love of chocolate and pastry on a journey from Europe to some of the best corners of Canada, landing here in Victoria in March.

When he first immigrated with his wife Vanya (also a pastry chef) in 2008, both found work in St. John’s, Newfoundland, working in top hotels, at the Gypsy Tea Room, and eventually opening their own Bistro Sofia, renowned on The Rock for their cakes and pastries.

After a decade in Newfoundland, the Velinovs moved cross country to the Canadian Rockies, where Tony was named executive pastry chef at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.

He says he’s thrilled to be in Victoria and ready to add his touch to the desserts at Q dining room and the iconic afternoon tea at the historic Empress Hotel.

“I think of our desserts as a measured indulgence,” says Velinov, noting he leans to modern pastry techniques that are lighter and more flavourful, with less sugar and fat. Ice cream and gelato are his specialties, too, and he’s keen to dive into the island’s fresh bounty of ingredients.

“I want to include different textures and flavours with lightness and freshness,” he says, describing a new dessert featuring a layered Victoria “landscape” of ice cream and sorbet, set on chocolate “soil” with flowers. “I love making ice cream and sorbet.

The possibilities are endless.”

After 24 years as a pastry chef, Velinov is still focused on learning more and experimenting with new ideas in the sweet kitchen. He enjoys “simple, rustic, flavourful desserts” but also want diners to be delighted.

“I think a dessert has to look simple and inviting,” he says, “but you also want people to say, ‘Wow, how did they do that!’”

Expect to see Velinov’s beautiful chocolate bonbons and bars on the Empress menu, along with cakes made with the honey from the hotel’s own bees, and desserts featuring local hazelnuts and berries.

This power pastry couple stays fit cycling, running, and walking, enjoying the opportunity to explore the great outdoors around Victoria. And the bounty of local ingredients is an inspiration for their sweet obsessions.

“We’ve lived from coast to coast in Canada,” he says, “but my wife says Victoria is like a Canadian cocktail—combining all the good things from across the country.”

"I love this dessert, it brings my favourite fruits together with a luscious strawberry cremeaux, decadent white chocolate, and crunchy granola base. Perfect for a measured indulgence on a warm summer evening. It’s best to make the component parts a day ahead and assemble it just before your guests arrive so the fruit is fresh and the base is crunchy." TONY VELINOV Serves: 8 GLUTEN FREE SHORTBREAD 130 g gluten free flour 65 g almond powder 50 g brown sugar Olive oil, choose a mild or fruity flavour Sift all dry ingredients together.

Mix together on slow in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Slowly drizzle in olive oil in a slow stream, with the paddle running until a crumbled consistency is obtained.

Place the dough into the centre of a sheet of parchment paper, cover with a second sheet and using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to 3mm thick.

STRAWBERRY RHUBARB JELLY 350 g rhubarb, fresh or frozen, cut into cubes 310 g fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced 90 g soft brown sugar 30 g agave syrup 8 g pectin 2 g agar agar 1 tsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed Mix the rhubarb and strawberries with the sugar, syrup, pectin, and agar agar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil.

Add the lemon juice and remove from the heat.

Set up two 5-inch cake rings lined with plastic wrap, or two spring pans lined with plastic wrap on a parchmentlined sheet pan.

Divide the jelly equally between the rings, allow to cool uncovered in the fridge. Once cool, cover and store in the fridge until ready to assemble.

YOGURT CREAM

Pre heat your oven to 170˚C/340˚F and bake for approximately 10-14 minutes or until it is light brown.

260g heavy cream, 35% 7 gelatin sheets, soaked in ice cold water for 10 minutes 260g white chocolate, chopped or callets 500g yogurt, plain or vanilla

Allow to cool at room temperature. Once cool, gently crumble the shortbread into thumbnail size pieces.

Heat the cream to 40˚C /105˚F. (Just warmed, not steaming, and no bubbles forming around edges.)

Freeze for 60 minutes.

GRANOLA – STEP ONE 100 g rolled oats 50 g sun-dried cranberries 50 g dried apricot, thinly sliced 50 g dates, diced 50 g sultana raisins 40 g pecans, roughly chopped 40 g almonds, sliced 30 g pistachios, peeled 20 g flax seeds 20 g sunflower seeds 90 g honey 30 g maple syrup Mix all dry ingredients, including the fruit, in a bowl.

Place honey and maple syrup in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and pour over the dry ingredients.

Mix gently with a spatula (careful, mixture will be hot).

Transfer to a tray lined with parchment paper , spread the granola out evenly, and bake in a pre-heated oven at 180˚C /360˚F for 7-8 minutes.

Allow to cool at room temperature. Do not refrigerate.

GRANOLA – STEP TWO 110 g cocoa butter (melted) 90 g olive oil, choose a mild or fruity flavour Combine olive oil and cocoa butter in ceramic bowl with the granola mix and crumbled gluten-free shortbread.

Mix well.

Place two 6-inch cake rings or spring form pans on a parchment-lined baking sheet, dividing the granola equally between the forms . Press the granola into the bottom of the forms using your fingers to ensure it is even and pressed to the edge.

Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatin sheets, add the gelatin to the cream and gently stir until dissolved.

Gently stir in the chocolate until melted. Emulsify with hand blender. Add yogurt and blend until a smooth consistency is achieved.

Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours before use.

STRAWBERRY CREMEAUX 150 g milk, 2% 12 g glucose syrup 3 gelatin sheets, soaked in ice cold water for 10 minutes 230 g white chocolate, chopped or callets 345 g heavy cream, 35% 100 g strawberries, hulled and sliced 5 drops red food colouring Heat milk and glucose to 40˚C /105˚F, . (Just warmed, not steaming, and no bubbles forming around edges.)

Remove from the heat.

Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatin sheets, add the gelatin to the milk mixture, and stir gently until dissolved.

Emulsify with hand blender until smooth.

Place the chocolate in a ceramic or glass bowl. Heat on medium power in a microwave for 30 seconds, until melted. Add to warm milk mixture and emulsify again.

Add the cream and strawberries.

Add the food colouring and blend with a hand blender until a smooth texture is achieved.

Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours before use.

E xecutive pastr y chef Tony Velinov FOR THE CHOCOLATE DECORATION 200 g white chocolate, chopped 4g red powdered food colouring (can be found at Bulk Barn). Must be oil based or candy colouring.

The common food colouring will cause the chocolate to seize.

Place the white chocolate in a glass bowl. Microwave on medium power for 30 seconds or until the chocolate is fully melted.

Sprinkle in the red food colouring powder and mix to fully incorporate.

Spread some plastic wrap tightly across the back of a flat tray–turn it over and use the bottom. (Hint: wipe the tray with a damp cloth. This will help the plastic to stick.)

Transfer the red chocolate into a small piping bag, and pipe round dots about ¾” – 1” in diameter on to the plastic-wrapped tray back.

Pipe about 30 dots.

Allow to cool at room temperature.

TO ASSEMBLE THE GALLETTES Place each granola disc onto a presentation plate.

Unmold and place a jelly disc in the middle of each of the granola-base rings.

Transfer the cremeaux and the yogurt cream into piping bags fitted with large round tips. Pipe dollops of the yogurt cream and strawberry cremeaux onto the jelly, randomly changing the sizes and placement of the dollops. . (You can use a spoon to add the dollops if you don’t have a pastry bag.)

Using the yogurt cream or strawberry cremeaux, pipe, or dab, a little bit onto the rounded side of the chocolate decorations, and stick them around the outside of the jelly forming a perimeter.

Place freshly hulled and cut strawberries, fresh mint leaves, and round chocolate decorations on top.

Dust with a small amount of icing sugar.

29

Keep Your Cool Luscious summer berries and creamy dairy come together for a delicious cold treat on a stick.

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Jennifer Danter

Jacqueline Downey

Blueberry Cheesecake Ice Pops Other berry or fresh fruit puree will work here, too, but who can resist those luscious, plump blueberries? Makes about 6-8 pops, depending on the size of your mold.

1 can (354 mL) evaporated low-fat milk ¼ cup honey or maple syrup + 2 Tbsp ½ cup spreadable cream cheese ¼ cup 5% Greek yogurt 1 tsp vanilla extract Pinch of sea salt ½ cup blueberries + extra Simmer milk and ¼ cup honey in a saucepan over mediumhigh heat, constantly whisking, until heated through, 2-3 min. Remove from heat; whisk in cream cheese, yogurt, vanilla, and salt until evenly mixed. Refrigerate to cool.

In a blender, puree ½ cup blueberries with 2 Tbsp each honey and water. Fill molds one-third full with the cooled milk mixture. Evenly spoon blueberry puree overtop each, then add the remaining milk mixture. Pop a few extra berries in each mold; swirl with a skewer. Insert pop sticks into centres. Freeze until solid, at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

TIP: S wap in raspberries or blackberries, but be sure to strain out seeds after pureeing.

30 JULY/AUGUST 2021

Victoria’s premier farmers market Est. 1992

patio perfect Relish ocean breezes and outer harbour views as you dine al fresco at the Blue Crab and Slip 53 patio. Our recently refurbished patio is the perfect place to dine on fresh, local seafood and enjoy craft drinks.

At the Blue Crab, we take seafood very seriously, and are thrilled to welcome local culinary icon, Executive Chef Garrett Schack to the Blue Crab team.

Moss St. Farmers Market Saturdays (10am-2pm)

Shop in person or online, at localline.ca/moss-street-market

MossStreetMarket.com

From our signature crab cakes and prawn Caesar, we can’t wait to welcome you to enjoy the casual, ocean-side ambiance.

Reserve today on Open Table or by calling 250.480.1999

Join us for a memorable Afternoon Tea experience at The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden Reservations Strongly Recommended

778-265-6466 BLUE CRAB SEAFOOD HOUSE Coast Victoria Hotel & Marina by APA, 146 Kingston St., Victoria, BC 250.480.1999 | bluecrab.ca

1964 Fairfield Rd. Victoria Open everyday 11am–4pm

Complete menu online: www.abkhaziteahouse.com 31

32 JULY/AUGUST 2021