Valencia: Ancient Roman City on the Med
El Carmen near Plaza Redonda
Valencia was founded by Roman soldiers on expedition in the 2nd century. They chose a location on the Turia River just 6 kilometers from the coast. Roman ruins remain in various locations, and there is a small archaeological museum containing some of the original streets. It is underground today. These Roman era columns were discovered when they were preparing the park behind the Museum of Modernity and Illustration (MUVIM).
The Moors took over the city after their invasion of Spain in 711. They installed an irrigation system which takes water from the Turia, high up in the mountains. The system is still in
operation. The skies in Valencia are almost always blue, meaning there is little rain – this irrigation makes possible the tremendous production of oranges, clementinas (Mandarin oranges), artichokes harvested young so you can eat almost the whole thing, almonds, melons, of course, rice -- Valencia is the home of paella -- and many other crops. El Cid was active in this area, fighting for the Spanish and the Moors – whoever was paying him at any one time. Once the Moors were defeated and expelled, this royal residence was built. Today it is the museum of Bellas Artes. In addition to religious art it boasts of a fine collection of works by the impressionist portrait painter Joaquin Sorolla.
Bellas Artes
In the middle ages Valencia was a major importer and distributor of Chinese silk. La Lonja was the Silk Exchange, one of a very few secular gothic structures that remain in Europe. Here is one of the staircases.
La Lonja
The deep port made silk imports possible. It also made the city an embarkation point during the Crusades. In the entrance arch of a small church, St John Hospitalier, you can see a painted red Cross of Malta, a symbol of the Crusades. The interior has a 12th century Jesus carved in wood. Huge ships still use the port.
St John Hospitalier
Valencia’s center is made up of several neighborhoods with distinct architecture. The medieval section has many delightful scenes.
Bar Sant Jaume
Plaza Sant Jaume
Parks are scattered throughout the city and are popular among the city’s residents. The Turia River was rerouted in the early 1960’s after devastating floods in the 1950’s. Now it is a park filled with exotic trees, walking and biking paths, and many soccer fields.
The huge tree in this watercolor has been there for ages. Nearby is the Fundacion Bancaja, a place for many art exhibits.
The Palau de la Musica overlooks the Parque Turia, created by the diversion of the Turia River after devastating floods in the 1950’s. You can listen to symphonic bands, for which Valencia is justly famous. Sometimes the composer is in the audience.
Here are some of the drawings I did in the audience.
Contrabass
Brass and Contrabass
View of the Stage
Xylophone Player
Brass and conductor
I used these and other drawings to produce some paintings
There is a botanic garden:
Abandoned cats live in the garden, cared for by volunteers:
When you need a snack, at almost any time of day or night, you can always stop in a bar and get tapas. Some are every day kinds of places with typical things like a tortilla (an omelet) sauteed mushrooms, snails, esgaraet (shreds of cod with red peppers), sauteed artichoke hearts, beans, green beans, stews, meatballs. The list goes on and on. There are upscale places with creative tapas as well. The wine, most often from the area, is very good to excellent and dirt cheap to cheap.
Tapas bar
The Spanish like to party and do so even in the streets.
The Lindy Hop
They love to sit, have coffee or snacks, and talk. And talk and talk and talk.
At the Plaza de la Virgin
A well known Spanish sculptor and painter lived in Valencia and had his studio there. You can visit it, see some of his work and the actual studio as well.
And when you tire of touring, there is the beach! In winter it is cool but pleasant:
Peg and Friends at the Beach In summer, on the other hand, it is very hot. The pleasant beaches are filled with sunbathers.
At the Beach
Valencia-- charming city, a pleasant place to live.