Swizzle: The Wine Edition

Sommelier SelectionS at rouSeS We carry highly rated wines and unique spirits from all over the world, not to mention the best craft and local beer selection of any market.

But don’t be intimidated by the choices; our in-store sommeliers and wine experts are there to help you make the perfect selection for every occasion.

JOIN US AT THE NEW ORLEANS WINE & FOOD EXPERIENCE swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

THE ROYAL STREET STROLL SPONSORED BY ROUSES ON THURSDAY, MAY 24TH The Most Unique Wine Tasting In The World!

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A definitive evening event bringing together New Orleans’ greatest gifts: rare antiques, fine art, live jazz, stunning historic architecture, our top restaurants and the world’s outstanding wines.

GRAND TASTINGS ON FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, MAY 25TH - 26TH Look for our booth at the this truly “Grand” experience for both foodies and wine connoisseurs, which features tastings from more than 75 of New Orleans’ finest chefs and a selection of 1,000 wines from around the world.

Get your tickets for both events at www.nowfe.com

“

We put so much effort into our wine department because we believe an extraordinary wine department enhances an extraordinary grocery store the way an extraordinary wine enhances an extraordinary meal.

- Donny Rouse

”

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SWIZZLE THE WINE EDITION •

2012 •

Bottled Up PAGE 5

Wine Diva Brenda Maitland provides the lowdown.

Bar Shopping PAGE 8

Missy Wilkinson finds the latest in wine accoutrements.

Matchmakers PAGE 10

Sommeliers at local eateries pair their dishes with wines.

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Roses are enjoying newfound respect and flavor.

Reign in Spain PAGE 14

New and old wines are gaining popularity.

Take the Cake PAGE 15

NOWFE’s 20th anniversary includes a cake contest.

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

Pretty in Pink

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swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

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Tabasco Wood Chips, as not seen in grocery stores everywhere. But you will find them at the one place that’s known for having all of those really hard-tofind grocery items you love…Dorignac’s Food Center.

710 Veterans Blvd., Metairie @BestIsBetter

SWIZZLE

WINE

BY BRENDA MAITL AND

REVIEWS he summer season is upon us, which means letting big red wines rest in the cellar while white and rose wines gently chill in the refrigerator. If your cellar is empty, here are nine wines to try this summer, including many priced at $15 or less. They’re good for drinking with a light dinner, partying on the patio or beach, or just relaxing with friends. There are sauvignon blancs from three continents, roses from opposite hemispheres, a luscious northern Italian pinot grigio, a vibrant vinho verde from Portugal and more.

2010 Girard Sauvignon Blanc NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

Following the traditional styles of the Loire Valley rather than that of more expressive New Zealand wines, Girard created an elegant sauvignon blanc without losing the grape’s New World brightness. The clean result is due to winemaking techniques, such as not exposing the wine to oak, that respect the character of the sauvignon blanc fruit. Native yeasts and stainless steel fermentation highlight its unique personality. Minerality is present but it takes a back seat to honeysuckle, fresh thyme and lemon, among the more traditional sauvignon blanc characteristics of honeydew melon, pineapple, peach, green apple and grapefruit. Drink it as an aperitif or with raw oysters, flaky white fish, creamy soups and tuna salad. Buy it at: The Wine Seller, Dorignac’s and Habano’s of Slidell. Drink it at: Herbsaint, Mr. B’s and The Sazerac at the Roosevelt Hotel.

2010 Castell de Raimat Albarino COSTERS DEL SEGRE, CATALONIA, SPAIN RETAIL $10-$12

Raimat, a nearly century-old winery in the southeastern corner of Spain, is both a pioneer in vineyard and winemaking techniques and an innovator of the Costers del Segre area’s growth. Raimat also holds the largest single wine estate in Europe. In the glass, this Albarino offers aromas of white peach, citrus and floral notes. On the palate, taste a light spritz, forward lemony flavors, a terrific acidity and a pleasing minerality. Drink it with white meats, seafood, paella, risotto and pasta dishes. Buy it at: Whole Foods Markets, Swirl Wines, Cork & Bottle and Dorignac’s.

COSTIERES DE NIMES, FRANCE RETAIL $14-$17

This dry, refreshing and elegant wine was produced in the Costieres de Nimes, the southernmost appellation in the Rhone, an area with abundant sunshine and a long grapegrowing season. This well-balanced blend of half syrah and half grenache takes full advantage of the region’s growing season. Grenache brings the strawberry qualities to the wine and the syrah offers blackberry notes. The wine also features brash acidity, refreshing minerality and a lengthy finish. Don’t overchill the wine or you will miss its nuances.

Drink it with smoked salmon, salad Nicoise, pork chops and grilled sausages. Buy it at: The Wine Seller and Cork & Bottle. Drink it at: Galatoire’s, Cochon, Bayona, Iris and Cafe NOMA.

2011 Nimbus Sauvignon Blanc CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE RETAIL $9-$12

From a single vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, this 100 percent sauvignon blanc is a lively summer refresher. Established in the 1980s, this cool, coastal region has proved excellent for the cultivation and vinification of white grapes.

The essential characteristics of sauvignon blanc are all in this wine, including aromas of tropical fruit, green apples and citrus notes. A pleasant minerality provides a beautiful backdrop for the aromatics and flavors of melon, peach and lemon and lime zest. Drink it with artichokes, salads, grilled vegetables, Asian cuisines and roasted Marcona almonds.

Buy it at: Rouses in Mid-City and Acquistapace’s Covington Supermarket. Drink it at: Ralph’s on the Park, Atchafalaya, Rene Bistrot, Hoshun Restaurant, Original Pierre Maspero’s and Chartres House Cafe.

2011 Anjos de Portugal Vinho Verde MINHO, PORTUGAL RETAIL $7-$10

Vinho verde wines are produced in a sub-region of the same name in northwestern Portugal. These uncomplicated, simply made wines are some of the lightest in the world. By law, the alcohol content is limited to 11.5 percent. Many of the wines, made from indigenous Portuguese grapes, are very

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

RETAIL $13-$16

2011 Chateau Lamargue Les Grandes Cabanes Rose

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Specials

2 for 1 drink specials • $2 Domestics • $4 House Wine Complimentary Appetizers every Thursday 5pm-7pm

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DINNER Receive a 10% discount and complimentary glass of wine with every dinner entrée (after 5 p.m.)

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Happy Hour :

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DRESS IT

PAGE 5

young with a slight frizzante, a refreshing mouthfeel. In the glass, these crisp, acidic whites feature bright aromas of wildflowers, pear and apple followed by flavors of tangy grapefruit, lemon and green melon. Pair it with tapas, sushi and shellfish. Buy it at: Martin Wine Cellar, Swirl Wines, W.I.N.O. and Bacchanal.

Drink it at: Galvez Restaurant, Rene Bistrot and W.I.N.O.

2011 Fabre Montmayou Rose MENDOZA, ARGENTINA RETAIL $13-$14

A French negociant who saw the potential for Argentine winemaking, particularly with Malbec, founded the Fabre Montmayou estate in the early 1990s. With vineyards at 3,800 feet and all hand-harvested, estate-grown fruit, the winery produces this malbec-merlot blend in Argentina’s southernmost winegrowing area. In the glass, the wine exudes aromas of cherry, peach, strawberry, floral notes and a bit of earth. On the palate, the wine presents a creamy fruit character with strong flavors of berry, stone fruit, orange zest and good acidity. Drink it with grilled tuna, shrimp, chicken, salads, vegetarian dishes and soft cheeses. Buy it at: Swirl Wines and Bacchanal.

2010 Barone Fini Pinot Grigio VAL D’ADIGE, ITALY RETAIL $10-$12

Domaine Plouzeau Sauvignon Blanc 2010 TOURAINE, LOIRE, FRANCE RETAIL $11-$15

The Loire Valley offers a distinct sauvignon blanc character. The vineyards around the city of Tours in the Touraine, along the River Cher, yield wines of understated elegance with aromas of fresh-cut grass and white peach, citrus flavors and stone fruit qualities. The acids are pronounced and long finishes are typical. Domaine Plouzeau takes advantage of the mineral-laden soils and brings the purity of organic winemaking to the fore. Drink it with fish, shellfish, oysters, fresh vegetables and lemony sauces like hollandaise and bearnaise. Buy it at: The Wine Seller and Bacchanal. Drink it at: Luke, Bayona, Commander’s Palace, Ste. Marie and Ignatius.

NV Huber Hugo Rose Sparkling TRAISENTAL, AUSTRIA RETAIL $15

For 10 generations, the Huber family has delighted Austrian wine lovers with excellent blends made from grapes in the Traisental region, just west of Vienna.

Markus Huber, a former professional soccer player, now carries the tradition.

This combination of zweigelt, the most widely grown grape in Austria, and boldly acidic pinot noir, is converted into a sparkling wine of excellent structure. The red grapes arrive on the palate as equal partners, bearing flavors of ruby grapefruit, rose petals, fresh cherry, spices, forest berries and citrus. Drink it with pate, chicken, turkey and seafood dishes. Buy it at: Swirl Wines and Bacchanal.

Drink it at: Mike’s on the Avenue and Toups’ Meatery.

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

Situated between the Dolomites and Alps, the valley of Val d’Adige is an excellent home for the pinot grigio grape, which loves the sunshine and the winds from the south at sunrise and the cool northern breeze at sunset. Pinot grigio has excellent natural citrus flavors, and fruit sugars are enhanced through careful vinification. It also has a strong minerality. Drink it with shellfish, bruschetta, pasta dishes and other light fare. Buy it at: Cork & Bottle, Vieux Carre Wine & Spirits, Dorignac’s, Whole Foods Market in Metairie and Albertson’s in Mandeville. Drink it at: Marigny Brasserie, Jacques-Imo’s, Meauxbar Bistro and Ristorante del Porto.

Any questions? Email Brenda Maitland at winediva1@bellsouth.net.

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SWIZZLE

BOTTLE

BY MISSY WILKINSON

SERVICE Enhance your wine with these finds.

Showcase your love for the vine things in life with this cork trivet, $12.99 at Cork and Bottle.

Generous proportions keep this cup from running over, and ombre hues and vine-like embellishments make it fit for an elegant feast, $10 at Dillard’s (Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 831-6140; www.dillards.com). www.dillards.com)

An ergonomic, felt-lined rubber drip ring fits over a wine bottle neck to fend off dribbles and stains, $4.99 at Cork and Bottle.

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

A plush, leopard-print wine bag lends panache to a simple hostess gift, $12.95 at Dillard’s.

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A stainless steel wine decanting funnel filters out sediment and helps wine breathe, $10.99 at Cork and Bottle (3700 Orleans Ave., Suite 1-C, 483-6314; www.cbwines.com).

Alligator print and a self-contained corkscrew make this wine purse equal parts snazzy and practical for an oenophile out on the town, $30 at Dillard’s.

Supporting local fishermen and local farmers by serving the freshest local products.

Pour wine through the Vinturi Wine Aerator for a more aromatic bouquet and smoother mouthfeel, $40 at Martin Wine Cellar (714 Elmeer St., Metairie, 896-7300; 3500 Magazine St., 899-7411; 2895 Hwy. 190, Mandeville, 985-951-8081; www.martinwine.com).

Come and experience New Orleans’ own chef Greg picolo’s French-Creole cuisine.

Redemption is housed in a beautiful 100-year-old historic church in the heart of Mid-City.

Try Our Extensive

Wine List from around the World FrEE cOrKaGE ThurSdayS

3-course Lunch $26 25¢ Vodka martinis Tues-Fri 11am-3pm

happy hour 5pm-6:30pm $5 drinks & $5 appetizers

Sunday Brunch 11am-3pm featuring endless Mimosas and Bloody Mary’s

3835 Iberville St. in Mid-City Collecting corks for mementos or craft projects? Keep them elegantly contained with this metal cork cage, $16.99 at Cork and Bottle.

Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11am-3pm Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5-10pm Sunday Brunch 11am-3pm (504) 309-3570 • www.redemption-nola.com

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This sleek, rechargeable stainless steel wine bottle opener takes the hassle out of decorking a favorite vintage. A single charge opens up to 80 bottles, $39.99 at Dillard’s

Bring your great wines every Thursday, all day, and receive free corkage.

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SWIZZLE

MATCHMAKERS

BY BRENDA MAITL AND

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

Local sommeliers pair wine and food.

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s small plates and global influences have become more common in local restaurants, wine lists have diversified.

Jenni Lynch, formerly Bayona’s dining room manager, moved to Mondo as general manager when Susan Spicer opened the Lakefront eatery.

At Bayona, the fine dining atmosphere required more specialized sommelier services, Lynch says, but “at Mondo, the world really is your oyster.”

“We are guest-driven,” she says. “A guest might not have the same palate I do.

I ask them what they drink at home. I try to determine what the guest is looking for. I’ll ask for input from everyone at the table.”

Guests often start with a glass of sparkling wine. “Sparkling and rose are wines that go with everything, and we keep them on the list throughout the year, adding more as the season warms,” she says.

Mondo’s deviled egg trio is a popular starter, and Lynch often recommends a glass of sparkling wine or the Domaine d’Arton Cotes de Gascogne white blend.

Guests also like White Rose Pinot Noir

Malvasia Bianca pairs well with shrimp and curried cauliflower or Chinese braised duck leg with bok choy, scallion cakes Cary Palmer recommends and shiitake stir-fry. Another wines to go with the match for braised duck is selection of small plates Portugal’s Quinta do Crasto at Bouligny Tavern. tempranillo.

PHOTO BY CHERYL GERBER Lynch suggests the Scarbolo Ramato Pinot Grigio from Italy’s Friuli region with the smoked chicken with thyme, Brussels sprouts and bacon. The complex wine goes with the Gulf fish and its three sauces: lemoncaper butter, parsley pistou and Muddy Waters. She recommends Oregon’s WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Gris from Willamette with shrimp and curry, shrimp and pork meatballs, pho, meat pies and Indian dishes.

Lynch finds Chateau de Lascaux Coteaux du Languedoc a good pairing for broiled lamb sirloin with Romesco sauce.

For the vegetarian dish of wood-oven roasted goat cheese polenta with mushrooms, roasted fennel and tomato ragout, she opts for spicy and complex from Willamette Valley with the picnic item.

County Line Anderson Valley Pinot Noir or With chicken liver pate with house-made earthy and rustic Cuvelier Cuvee del Maule pickles and crostini, she recommends from Chile.

Spanish Ameztoi Rubentis Getariako With its diverse menu, Mondo sells a Txakolina Rose or the Henri Bourgeois Les lot of wine by the glass, allowing diners to Baronnes Rose from Sancerre, France. explore different dishes and pairings.

“Our servers go to the tables to talk with guests about wine and ask if they want Cary Palmer holds court at the upscale to stay within their comfort zone or be Bouligny Tavern, which offers eclectic adventuresome, like with South Africa’s comfort-to-gourmet-style small plates.

Badenhorst Family Wine Secateurs red Chef/owner John Harris “knew what he blend which is a great accompaniment to was doing in designing the menu,” Palmer the slow-roasted pork shoulder with black says. “The dishes are imbued with a great beans and plantains as well as a pizza,” deal of creativity, so guests have a large Lynch says. range of items and styles from which to A Napa Valley 2001 Amethyst Vinalia order.” The wine list features 90 labels.

Nebbiolo-Sangiovese blend goes with the Bouligny offers a deviled egg trio, curGulf fish, mussels and chorizo as well as rently including duck liver mousse with duck lighter meat dishes, she says. confit, Comte cheese, and one with creme Lynch also recommends the unoaked fraiche, bowfin caviar and cornichons.

2009 Sonoma Lioco Chardonnay with the “A natural pairing for hors d’oeuvres is Gulf fish dish or mussels and chorizo. “The sparkling wine or Champagne,” Palmer says, wine is sustainably farmed and very vintage“and I usually recommend the Dumangin. sensitive,” she says. The wine is well-made, “I enjoy having roses on the list, espewith nice citrus, and so much of the earth.” cially during the season. Guests want the red wine flavor, plus the acidity and crispA Croatian wine, Bastianich “Adriatico”

ness that make roses more satisfying during the summer than even a white wine.”

During summer, white wine drinkers order lighter style wines like proseccos, a good sparkling wine for quaffing, and St. Peyre Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc.

Many white wine drinkers want crisp minerality, more neutral, refreshing wines, like sauvignon blanc, he says. Palmer likes the lush style of New World sauvignon blanc like The Supernatural from New Zealand with its floral, honeysuckle and passion fruit character.

“It’s a nice aperitif wine and pairs well with the rich meat of the Australian langoustine with garlic butter,” he says. He also pours the wine with fried squash with pesto and lemon or the fritto misto with shrimp, calamari, octopus, anchovy and oyster.

“A French sauvignon blanc such as the Domaine Neveu Sancerre is actually more of a food wine because of the acidity,” he says. “(It) matches well with the gougeres (airy cheese puffs) made with Comte cheese. You need some fat to counteract and balance the acid.”

Both fried squash and tempura green beans are welcome companions to the Vina Godeval Godello from Spain’s Rias Baixas, a greener, more neutral white wine that shows mineral and vegetal qualities. A bowfin caviar dish with potato crisps and accoutrements calls for Champagne, or Mont Marcel Cava.

“I also recommend the Lanson Black Label Champagne which is more austere and has a saline sharpness I like with the caviar,” Palmer says. He also points to the lighter Domaine Huet Vouvray Petillant Brut sparkling from the Loire Valley.

Sliced meats and cheeses from St. James Cheese Company are terrific with a southern French or Spanish wine, like Embruix de Vall Llach, a grenache blend from Priorat, he says.

Palmer chooses Fabre Montmayou Malbec to go with seared beef short ribs.

He also likes Vietti Barbera d’Asti from Piedmont, “an earthy, rustic wine with black cherry fruit that marries well with its acidity and cuts through the fat,” he says.

To drink with the duck confit dish, Palmer says, “I like a good Pinot Noir with great acidity and good fruit such as Bel Echo from Marlborough. It’s French in style but has that extra ripeness you get from New Zealand fruit. The acidity is

*This is a casting call out with no guarantee of acceptance

At Mondo, Jenni Lynch pairs wines with dishes from around the globe.

NEW ORLEANS, LA

Photo by Cheryl Gerber

Thursday May 24th 5-8pm Sunday May 27th 2-6pm Bourbon Heat 711 Bourbon Street New Orleans, LA 70116

www.TheConlinCompany.com

At Atchafalaya, sommelier Franklin Buist draws from a list of more than 100 wines to pair with chef Baruch Rabasa’s internationally inspired cuisine.

Pinot Noir, along with other lighterstyle reds, is the most popular varietal with diners, but Buist recommends wines of all styles. He sells many drier, crisper white wines from France’s Loire Valley as well as pinot gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Diners want vibrant white wine choices such as Anne Amie Pinot Blanc and Grower Champagnes, Buist says.

He suggests Domaine Sigalas, a Greek white wine, with an heirloom radish, arugula, shaved fennel, red onion and satsuma vinaigrette salad.

“The refreshing wine’s structure and clean, racy flavors complement the bright, fresh flavors in the dish,” he says.

Crab ravioli with shiitake mushrooms, spinach, mascarpone and citrus buerre blanc nearly jumps off the plate when matched with Domaine Jean Collet et Fils Chablis, produced with neutral oak, he says.

For something as familiar as chicken and andouille gumbo, Buist offers

either Spanish Raul Perez El Castro de Valtuille Mencia from Bierzo for red wine fans or the Alsatian Weinbach Riesling Reserve Personnelle for white wine drinkers.

When waitstaff serve Rabasa’s sesame-seared tuna with asparagus, tabbouleh and lemon vinaigrette, Buist reaches for Anne Gros Minervois, a syrah, grenache and carignan blend, or a 2003 Tofanelli from Napa Valley, an astringent wine that cuts the dish’s richness.

For the vegetarian Yukon gold potato gnocchi with asparagus, oyster mushrooms, roasted red pepper and tomato jus, Buist suggests Pinot Noirs Au Bon Climat of Santa Barbara or Prince Florent de Merode Ladoix from Burgundy.

Buist recommends Joseph Mellot Sancerre Rose for pork belly with butter beans, littleneck clams and harissa. The Loire Valley wine is a Pinot Noir rose with cherry fruit flavors that complement the smoky and sweet Tunisian condiment.

Another option to pair with the pork belly is a gamay like the Jean-Paul Brun medium-dry Beaujolais. For the grilled pork chop with mustard greens and black-eyed pea ragout, Buist prefers the French Domaine la Milliere Cotes du Rhone or Italian Bussola ca’ del Laito Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, both available by the glass.

Buist shares his knowledge of wines with Atchafalaya staff.

“I often stage ‘palate-check Mondays’ for the staff,” he says. “We blindtaste a number of wines on the list.

The staff … find it both a learning and challenging experience.”

Email: hellskitchen@theconlincompany.com Call: 310-313-9100

The Conlin Company

FEATURING

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$ HOUSE WINE

CHICKEN SALAD shredded chicken, with shredded cabbage, carrots, mint, in a House Sauce. Served with Shrimp Chips

by the glass 11am-5pm Mon-Fri

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very much like what you would expect from Bourgogne.”

Another option is Domaine du Joncier Lirac Le Classique, a grenache/ syrah blend from Cotes du Rhone.

With the marrow and garlic crostini, Palmer says he can go in either direction: “A rich, decadent red wine like the Mas Igneus grenache, carignan, cabernet sauvignon, syrah blend from Priorat, or the Mas Igneus’ decadent white wine — Garnacha Blanca — a ripe, unctuous, beautiful bottling,” he says.

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Paso Creek Winery Complimenting Tonight’s Dinner Wednesday May 23rd, 2012 • Arrival 6p.m. & Dinner at 7p.m. $120 inclusive

Aperitif

CHOUPIQUE CAVIAR Chive Crepe lemon mascarpone. Paired with: Ruffino Prosecco DOCG, Veneto, Italy

1st course

MAINE LOBSTER Vanilla butter poached lobster tail, potato and mustard green galette, lobster veloute and fried fennel pickles Paired with: Estancia Chardonnay, Monterey County, California , 2010

2nd course

PAN ROASTED HALIBUT Stone crab and mirliton gratin, pepper jelly gastrique, Paired with: Estancia Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County, California 2011

3rd course

LYCHEE SORBET ICE WINE FLOAT Fresh berries, Paired with: Paso Creek Zinfandel, Paso Robles, California, 2009

4th course

BOAR AND VENISON Herb crusted boar chop, Oat and nut crusted venison tenderloin, parsnip and celery root puree, Veal reduction, blackberry cameral, Paired with: Paso Creek Merlot, Paso Robles, California, 2007 & Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Paso Robles, California, 2009

5th course

CHOCOLATE PUDDING CAKE Luxardo cherry vanilla ice cream, cinnamon and spice anglaise orange zest Paired with: Paso Creek Zinfandel, Paso Robles, California, 2009

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You don’t have to drive to Cajun Country... we are conveniently located in Harahan.

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SWIZZLE

HOT PINK

Shake Things Up!

AT THE HOTTEST NEW BAR IN TOWN

BY BRENDA MAITL AND

Refined roses are in fashion.

Open Daily 3pm - 10pm Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Located in the French Quarter

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“Since 1969”

COUPON

roses $ .99 stock colors

R

merlot are popular varietals because the grapes have intense fruit with bold flavors. Most important, however, the grape skins, which imbue wines with flavor, provide plenty of tannins and structure on which to build great wines. Because the grapes are picked earlier than for red wines and are not allowed to fully ripen, the roses are lower in alcohol.

Producing a good rose starts with the way red grapes are vinified. Before the process goes too far, the juice is separated from the skins after only a bit of the skin color has been imparted to the future wine. The juice is “bled” off and placed in a separate tank to complete fermentation. This is called “saignee.” Since all of the sugars in the grapes are converted to alcohol, the result is a dry wine with no residual sugar.

Another process is used by wineries that produce higher volumes of wine.

The vintner takes red wine not chosen for release in its current state and adds it to white wine. The result is a rose wine of lesser quality.

The finest roses are well-structured, quality wines that bring out distinct essences, such as soft minerals, light cherry, watermelon and strawberry flavors. These lighter aromas and flavors, coupled with the wine’s tannic and acid structure, make them fine to drink by themselves, but they also are good matches for fish such as salmon and tuna, spicier fare like Thai cuisine and barbecue or picnic provisions.

Roses also are refreshing during New Orleans’ hot, humid summers.

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CASH & CARRY ONLY. NOT VALID W/ ANY OTHER COUPONS. COUPON MUST BE PRESENT AT TIME OF PURCHASE.

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ose wines are hot, hot, hot.

Within a relatively short time, roses have separated themselves from the stigmas created by white zinfandel and other inexpensive sweet pink wines.

The category of rose has experienced an annual growth rate 17 times greater than all other table wines by volume, reports Wines & Vines. These wines have always been there, but apparently they weren’t widely appreciated until recently.

“Blush” wines have been associated with sugary-sweet bottlings the color of cotton candy. The white zinfandel craze proliferated in the early 1970s — the wine was actually born of from a winemaker’s mistake — but it has faded as new generations of wine drinkers discovered European-style dry roses.

Quality rose wines have body, fruit character and tannins.

The southern French region of Provence has always been a leader in the creation of rose wines, and dry roses are the regional specialty. The appeal may begin with the wines’ hues, but it’s their versatility to pair with a wide variety of cuisines that makes them popular.

Exports of rose from Provence have increased dramatically, and Vins de Provence reported a 62 percent increase in rose exports to the U.S. in 2011. Other countries, including Spain, Italy, Austria, South Africa and Argentina, are exporting some excellent roses to our shores as well.

Rose is made from red grapes.

Syrah, grenache, sangiovese and

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SWIZZLE

SPANISH TRE ASURES

BY BRENDA MAITL AND

Spain offers Old World and new wines.

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panish wines aren’t new to local cellars, but new pleasures are arriving regularly from the Iberian Peninsula. Every wine-producing region of the country that gave us Don Quixote, Goya and El Cid is producing terrific work. The wines are made from native fruit dating back to ancient times, and even olives here are prized for their sweet meat and acidic qualities.

Spanish winemaking traditions maintain many Old World techniques still employed in the age of computerized temperature controls and stainless steel vats. One is as likely to encounter tools of the industry dating back to the mid-1800s as the micro-oxygenation apparatus invented in the 1990s. But what matters to consumers is that Spanish wines often are great values.

Here are some of the Spain’s major wine-producing regions and their primary grapes: • The wine region of Rias Baixas is nestled in the northwest corner of Spain between Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean. Its landscape has more in common with Ireland and Wales than other Spanish winegrowing areas. Rias Baixas is known for producing Spain’s finest white wines. Albarino is the native white grape, and it produces zesty wines with peach flavor with heavy overtones of honeysuckle, although the wines are not sweet but dry, acidic and well-structured.

Albarino is a good accompaniment to strongly sauced seafood dishes.

• The Duero River flows out of the high plateaus of northern Spain into Portugal and the Atlantic. (In Portugal it is known as the Douro and is famous for making the greatest ports in the world.) In Spain, the Ribera del Duero region is a red wine paradise, and the local grape, tinto fino, is likely a variation of Spain’s tempranillo.

Generally, the grapes are grown more than 2,500 feet above sea level, and the moisture from the river offsets the arid winds that blow through the region year round. The wines are aged for long periods in aged oak barrels, and in many cases are not released until four or five years after harvest. Blackberries, blueberries, concentrated fruit and tannins contribute to bold wines suitable for drinking with smoked meats and game.

• In north central Spain sits the most famous wine region on the Iberian peninsula, La Rioja. The name derives from Rio Oja, one of the seven tributar-

ies of the Ebro River.

This red wine region focuses on tempranillo grapes, and while often compared to Bordeaux wine styles, Riojas are actually more like fine Burgundys in character.

The grapes of Rioja are strictly products of their environment, with each area impressing on its fruit distinct exposure to heat, sunshine, moisture and soil conditions. The wines are aged in large oak barrels, lowering the contact with oak while adding structure and imparting wood flavor.

Rioja winemakers make extensive use of American oak and American rootstock. The red wines from this region are legally defined by their aging criteria (how long they must age in oak barrels).

• The rising star of the Spanish wine world is Priorat, which has its own long winemaking history and tradition.

The region’s wines have become popular outside of Spain in the last two decades.

There are many grapes used here, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, tempranillo and two major local grapes — carinena (known as carignan in France and Chile) and garnacha, a Spanish grape better known in France as grenache.

Winemakers in Priorat often use French oak during aging because the vines are very old and yields are low. The wines are highly concentrated, exhibiting flavors of blackberry, chocolate and licorice. They’re also usually high in alcohol, with big tannins.

• North of Priorat, but still south of Barcelona, lies Penedes, Spain’s greatest sparkling wine producing area. This region has been producing sparkling wines, or cavas, since the 1870s, and today there are more than 175 producers, including Freixenet and Codorniu.

To be designated a cava, the wine must be made in the traditional Cham-

pagne method, which means the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. By law, cavas must use one or more of five local grape varieties, parellada, xarel-lo or macabeo, and can also use chardonnay and malvasia.

Emerging Spanish regions include Rueda, Montsant, Jumilla and Arabako Txakolina. Arabako Txakolina uses local grapes such as the red hondarrabi beltza and the white hondarrabi zuri. The Jumilla region in the southeastern coastal part of the country uses Old World grapes like the red mourvedre, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. White grapes are similar to airen, the most widely planted white grape in the country, malvasia, macabeo and pedro ximenez.

Spanish wines deliver boldness, concentrated fruit and surprising value, a reflection of their environment and the dedication to quality of the winemakers that have labored for generations.

SWIZZLE

LET THEM BEAT CAKE

BY WILL COVIELLO

NOWFE celebrates its 20th anniversary with a cake contest.

L

Tariq Hanna once constructed an edible cake replica of Louise S. McGehee School.

PHOTO COURTESY OF TARIQ HANNA

judged by a panel of experts, and cohosting the event is Johnny Iuzzini from Bravo’s Top Chef, Just Desserts.

Hanna also engineered the competition to be different than most cake contests. Generally, the massive cakes must be entirely edible, but they are rarely ever consumed. This competition requires that everything on the outside be edible, but not all of the interior needs to be edible, to be less wasteful of food. And there’s a second part of the challenge: Each team must prepare 250 portions of a signature cake, which will be available at the event. Attendees can sample the cakes and enjoy chocolates from Sucre and Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. The victors win a $5,000 prize sponsored by Valrhona.

“We want something that will wow people,” Hanna says. “How often do you walk by a five-foot cake and say, ‘I’ve seen it’?”

BUY one get one happy hOur 4-6 pm

lOcaTeD jUST a few STepS frOm The ferry laNDiNg iN algierS pOiNT

May 29 The Big Gateaux Show 8:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday Royal Sonesta Hotel, Grand Ballroom, 300 Bourbon St.; www.nowfe.com Tickets $75

141 Delaronde St. • New Orleans 70114 www.vine-dine.com • 504.361.1402

swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

et me tell you how great cake really is,” says Tariq Hanna, chef/owner of Sucre. “The 159th (Air National Guard) fighter squadron is stationed in Belle Chasse. They were having a ceremony and one of the reservists knew me and asked if I could make them a (sheet) cake. I said, ‘Sure,’ but if I’m going to do it, I’m going to make them a cake. I made them a 3-foot scale replica of an F-15. No one knew I was doing it.

“Do you know what that cake got me?” Hanna adds.

“I was made Louisiana’s first-ever honorary commander of the Air Force. I flew in the back seat of an F-15 fighter jet. Never underestimate the power of cake.”

Hanna is harnessing the power of cake at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience in the Big Gateaux Show, to celebrate the festival’s 20th anniversary, benefit Second Harvest Food Bank and raise the profile of pastry chefs in New Orleans.

Hanna won the “Shark Summer” competition on the second season of TLC’s Ultimate Cake Off. On the Food Network’s Incredible Edible Mansions competition, he built a gingerbread replica of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water house. It’s televised cake competitions, he says, that have changed his business.

“Now people want amazing designs that spin and shoot sparks,” he says.

“The thing they don’t realize is that they could buy an entry level Kia for the same cost.”

But competitions are about excess, even if they have set specifications.

The cake contest at NOWFE requires competitors to incorporate the festival’s 20th anniversary as well as a burlesque theme, and the cake must be at least five feet tall.

For competitors, he’s recruited some top talents. They include Bronwen Weber, who beat him in the Edible Mansions competition, and is tops in the field. Representing New Orleans is Solandie Exantus, the Royal Sonesta’s pastry chef. Each of the contestants will be assigned three students from Delgado Community College’s culinary program. The competition will be

Under 21 NOT permitted in the wine bar & courtyard

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swizzle: the wine edition 2012 > bestofneworleans.com

MAY 22-26, 2012

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Tuesday ella BRennan aWaRd dinneR: a one-of-a-kind dinner, prepared by new orleans finest chefs, honoring the 2012 recipient:

Thursday

Friday & saTurday

Vinola: our premium tasting event is a rare opportunity for

Big gateaux ShoW: Join us Friday night as we celebrate

200 wine enthusiasts to mingle with notable winemakers

our 20th anniversary with Cake, Champagne and Burlesque!

and sommeliers while sampling elite wines from around

SeMinaRS: industry

the world.

insiders present what’s hot in wine and food.

Bill goldring.

Royal StReet StRoll SponSoRed By RouSeS: the Most

Wednesday

unique Wine tasting in the World! a definitive evening event

for a truly grand experience! on Friday enjoy cooking

Wine dinneRS: Chefs and Vintners plan

bringing together new orleans’ greatest gifts: rare antiques,

demonstrations from the editors of Fine Cooking Magazine

the menus together ensuring outstanding

fine art, live jazz, stunning historic architecture, our top

and on Saturday watch to see who is crowned the next

food and wine pairings.

restaurants and the world’s outstanding wines.

King of louisiana Seafood.

gRand taStingS: 175 wineries & 75 chefs come together

®

FoR eVent inFoRMation and tiCKetS, ViSit

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