Quench Magazine Issue 175 November 2019

MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2019

SNOW PATROL

BOYS DON’T WEAR PINK

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

an exclusive interview with the band

tackling the topic of toxic masculinity in music, fashion & society

the world’s greatest christmas markets

2 - JOIN QUENCH issue 175

@QuenchMagazine @QuenchMag @quenchmagcardiff Are you interested in the publishing industry? Fancy putting your creative juices to the test? If so, Quench is for you.

Quench is Cardiff University’s student lead magazine, where you will be given an environment through which your creative flare can flourish.

From written articles to vibrant digital design, Quench aims to help build your portfolio, while making a new set of friends at the same time.

We use a first come first served basis on our Facebook groupsQuench Contributors 19/20 and Quench Design and Creative team 19/20, so make sure your notifications are on!

In the contributor’s group, articles are posted by our Section Editors, who allocate them out through our first come first serve basis. If you see an article you’d like to write, all you have to do is comment below! We have five print issues a year, and weekly online content so there are new opportunities posted

Modified photograph of Cardiff University Main Building by David Meenagh via Flickr: https://bit. ly/2kgW9mu.

every day.

We are on the hunt for Welsh speakers for our Clebar section too!

Our Design group works in a similar way, and if you’d like to design any of our pages look out for a post from our Head of Design asking willing designers to comment. Don’t worry if you’re an InDesign newbie, as we will be holding Give it a Go workshops shortly.

All abilities are welcome, whether you’re hot off the press or a total newbie who’s never set foot in an editorial office.

Quench won’t get in the way of your social life either – we organise regular socials, alcoholic and non.

So get in touch. Contact us via the social media link for more information or email us through editor@quenchmag.co.uk.

issue 175

EDITOR’S LETTER - 3

There’s nothing I love more than the wintertime.

Despite the increase in darkened shadows and the cold air biting at your fingertips, the classic winter cliches of fairy lights and warm blankets are there to fall back on as the nights draw in.

Issue 175, our winter special, has a cosy selection of recipes, interviews and features to get you through these colder months. Our music editor, Josh Ong, spoke to Snow Patrol on page 44, Elly Savva reflected back on the noughties on pages 14 and 15, and our food section have numerous articles tailored to guide your festive eating on pages 26 to 31.

However, despite all the festive magic, we really wanted to emphasise that this time of year can be increasingly difficult for many people. Therefore, on page 70, Ella Woodcock has written an important piece on seasonal affective disorder (SAD). At Cardiff Student Media, we are very keen to improve the dicussion around mental health as a whole. This has been demonstrated brilliantly by our sister publication Gair Rhydd recently, who have released a video discussing Movember & mental health awareness as well as a 2 piece print feature on mental health in sport.

Sadly, as a publication, we have recently had two members of our team decide to step down. We’d like to wish Emily Stanton and Sophie Coombs all the best, and give them a massive thank you for all their hard work and dedication over the past few months. On a slightly brighter note, our previous Copy Editor, Izzy Wackett, and newest addition, Katie Duffin, have both agreed to step into their shoes and leave their own mark on Quench this year.

As always, I’d like to say a massive thank you to my whole team, who put so much love and joy into this publication. On behalf of all of us, we hope you enjoy the second installment to this year of Quench.

I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year - we’ll see you in 2020. Or, as our Film & TV Editor Caleb Carter likes to call it, “Quenchy- Quenchy”.

KATIE MAY HUXTABLE Editor-in-Chief

4 - MEET THE TEAM issue 174 Social Media Manager James Barker Head of Illustration Elaine Tang Dear Ella...

Ella Woodcock

Editor in Chief Katie May Huxtable

Social Media Assistants Janaki Selvaratnum and Coby Barker

Deputy Editor Luisa De La Concha Montes

Head of Photography Charlie Troulan Deputy Head of Photography Ella Cuss Head of Design Orlagh Turner Deputy Head of Design Ula Rodakowska

issue 174

Columnist Phoebe Grinter

MEET THE TEAM - 5

Features Rhianna Hurren-Myers, Elly Coyle and Rebecca Astill

Culture Sofia Brizio and Neus Forner

Clebar Indigo Jones

Food & Drink Lauren Stenning and Katie Duffin

Travel Marcus Yeatman-Crouch and Molly Govus

Music Kate Waldock, Josh Ong and James McClements

Fashion & Beauty Izzy Wackett and Emily Ricalton

Download Mike O’Brien and Emma Murphy

Copy Editors Denise Dogan, Hazel Thayre and Ellie Ball

Film & TV Caleb Carter, Cynthia Vera and Laura Dazon

Q3 Editor Jasmine Snow Q3 Deputy Editors Eduardo Karas and Nidhi Pattni

6 - CONTENTS issue 175

CONTENTS

Cardiff Story

8. Interview with Ronny Nyamilandu Manda

Column

9. Season’s Eatings

Film & TV

58. The Best Films of the 2010s 59. Review: The Lighthouse 60-61. A History of a Galaxy Far, Far Away...

62-63. Jane Bond: The Polarising Politics of Women in Hollywood

Features

10. Why do Women Have to Carry the Burden of Contraception?

11. Declutter Your Timeline 12-13. Have Yourself A Sustainable Little Christmas 14-15. Reflecting on the Noughties Media World

Culture

16. Winter Solstice Celebrations 17. Literature in the Age of AI: What’s to Come?

18-19. Ultimate Christmas Wishlist for Culture Geeks 20-21. Best Literary Wolds to Spend Christmas

Clebar

22. Nadolig Newydd 23. Nadolig yng Nghaerdydd 24-25. A-Y o eiriau slang Cymraeg

Food & Drink

26-27. The Ultimate Student Christmas Dinner 28. Inside the Heads of Cardiff Chefs 29. Editor’s Picks: Favourite Podcasts for Food Lovers 30-31. Eat and Drink Your Way Around the Christmas Markets 32-35. Food Photoshoot: Kin + Ilk

Travel

36-37. Christmas Markets: Dresden and Gamla Stan 38-39. The Happiest Countries in the World 40-41. The Ethics of Adventure

Music

42. Hiatus? Do Bands Ever Completely Quit Anymore?

43. Politics and Music 44. An Interview with Snow Patrol 45. Local Artist Spotlight: Tobias Robertson 46. Copyright Gone Mad? 47-48. Boys Don’t Wear Pink, Right?

Fashion & Beauty

49. Going Grunge 50-51. Fashion & Beauty Game Changers 52-53. A Suitable Diana or an Offence to Royalty?

54-57. Fashion Photoshoot: Winter Grunge

Download

64-65. Epic Games Store: Monopoly Breaker or Hostage Taker?

66-67. The Lowdown on the Apple Card 68. True Crime: Justice or Fetishism?

Playlist of the Issue 69.

Dear Ella

70. SAD or Sad? 71. Questions

Contributors

Amy King Sasha Nagura Niamh Sullivan Hannah Penwright Imogen Green Katherine Mallet Courtney Moody Sai Andrea Gaini Katie Waits Niamh Goodwin-Thomas Jacob Morris Ashley Boyle Emily Stanton Craig Strachan Alex Payne Rhiannon Humpries Chris Colbourn Millie Smith Omo Ifabua Lottie Ennis Caitíe Woolridge Prateeksha Pathak Lois Brooks Kaiya Simon Ella Clucas Rhiân Lock Amelia Field Sam Tilley Alex Daud Briggs Eve Lewis

Design & Illustrations Orlagh Turner Ula Rodakowska Elaine Tang Lottie Ennis Josh Ong Alessio Grain Yean Su Cho Dominika Matusiak Cynthia Vera Rebecca Astill Rhianna Hurren-Myers Ellie Hutchings Katherine Mallett Elly Savva Esther Loi Danny Brown Luisa De la Concha Montes Katie May Huxtable

issue 175

CONTENTS - 7

8.

14.

32.

40.

44,

45,

52,

54,

58,

8 - FRONT COVER Q&A issue 175

CardiffStory

Interview and modelling: RONNY NYAMILANDU MANDA photographs of Ronny by: CHARLIE TROULAN design by: LUISA DE LA CONCHA MONTES

So, ultimately, life growing up in Malawi really shaped me as a person, and it forced me to grow up at an age where I kinda couldn’t celebrate childhood.

How was your life at home different to your life in Cardiff?

I’m much more free now, that’s for sure. I feel like not everybody is focused on what I’m doing and that’s a huge relief. There’s no longer a pressure to be something I’m not. Back home, the community is so small that everybody knows everybody, and the lack of personal space really is something that gets to you.

What aspects of your childhood do you feel influenced your time at University today?

My parents divorce really influenced the social side of my life at University in terms of relationships. Because of it, I’m someone who loves when things are tangible and real, rather than meaningless.

At the same time, I’m not actively looking for love, I’m kinda of waiting for it to find me, metaphorically speaking. People spend so much time looking for love that they end up in some of the most meaningless and mediocre relationships, when self-love is actually the foreground you should base your life on.

This year at Quench we want to give you the chance to feature on our front cover. Each issue, we would love to speak to a different student about their life and how they came to study here in Cardiff. In this heart-warming interview, Ronny opened up to us about his life as a child in Malawi, and how the difficult experiences he went through defined him as a person, and shaped him to become someone better.

Name: Ronny Nyamilandu Manda Age: 19 Course: Journalism, Media and Culture What was your life like growing up?

My life was pretty traumatic you could say. I grew up in what you’d call a broken household, my parents were constantly fighting, until they eventually decided to get a divorce. In the midst of it all, I was too young to even know what a divorce was. It was only until my parents told me they would no longer live with each other that I truly got the jist of what it actually meant: separation.

On the other side, throughout my childhood I observed my mother’s role in Malawian mainstream media, and it interested me so much that I wanted to pursue it further. That’s sort of why I am studying Journalism at University, because in a way I feel like I’m honouring her legacy by finishing what she started and never got to finish herself.

What will you miss about your experience here in Cardiff when you graduate?

The opportunity, I guess. There’s so many people back home that don’t even have the opportunity to go to such a recognised school like Cardiff University. We have all these amazing resources like free articles, unlimited library access, and great student support. Coming from a third world country where poverty is a norm means that you kind of learn to feel privileged and humbled at such an experience.

What are three things you would go back and tell the younger version of you starting first year if you could?

1. Be yourself and don’t change for anyone.

2. Walking to class is cardio, and your peng summer body will thank you for it next year.

3. 40 pounds is a lot of money Ronald, and it doesn’t make sense for you to spend it on a three course meal at an Italian restaurant.

I spent the majority of my childhood, along with my younger brothers, bouncing between different homes and step siblings once my father had moved on. My mother stayed single for the majority of her life until she passed away in 2012 due to pneumonia accompanied by a weak immune system at the age of thirty-five. I experienced her passing as I was in my last year of primary school (aged 12), so it was all pretty rough. A year later, when I was in middle school I lost my stepmother to a car crash. I’d also grown quite close to her, so it all just felt surreal.

And finally, as this is our Winter issue, what is your favourite Christmas tradition?

School was filled with a lot of bullying too, especially because I was a closeted member of the LGBTQ community, and in Malawi it is a taboo and a legal issue. However, I found strength in ownership, and in living my truth: I came out to my friends and family, and they chose to accept me and love me, so it has been an uphill battle ever since. Out of all the sorrow, there was happiness. I took an interest in runway modelling, and made my debut in the local newspaper countless times at the age of sixteen. After years of overeating and not exercising, I lost weight.

Gyming, and running helped me move on. You could say shedding all the weight I had been carrying, mentally and physically, healed me in the process. Before I moved to the UK, I even made it into the Malawian National Airlines Magazine issue of upcoming artists.

If you are interested in being on our front cover and answering a couple of questions, email us at editor@quenchmag.co.uk – we look forward to hearing from you!

Singing, and listening to Christmas albums by Mariah Carey, Ariana Grande, and Michael Buble with a cup of hot chocolate and marshmallows.

l

issue 175

COLLUMN - 9

Christmas is not about the presents for me. To be honest, it’s not even about the birth of Jesus, being with family, or the Queen’s speech. It’s about the food.

And at Christmas, food isn’t just food. It’s tradition, it’s memories, it’s the thing that brings families together over a shared appreciation of pigs in blankets and selection boxes. The fridge is chocka from November, but you can’t touch any of it because we’re ‘saving it for Christmas’. It is the time of year when you overindulge on delicious festive food, when your calorific intake has peaked at 5,000 a day and you don’t even have to feel guilty because screw it, it’s Christmas! So why do people insist on stuffing themselves with minging mince pies?

The mince pie has been a part of British cuisine and culture since the 13th century, when knights returned home with new ingredients from the wider world. Exciting new spices like nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon were combined with dried fruit, suet (gross), and actual minced meat (even more gross) to make the ‘revolutionary’ mince pie.

Yes, they’re steeped in tradition, and Christmas wouldn’t be the same without them, blah blah blah, but the mince pie is pretty much the only Christmas tradition I cannot get on board with.

I refuse to be involved in all this ‘you’ve got to have a mince pie at Christmas’ rubbish. It baffles me that people say the fruity taste of mince pies is the epitome of Christmas when their sickly smell reminds me of the perfume counter at Boots.

To me, a mince pie sounds as if it should be a meat and gravy-filled savoury snack. Why still call it mincemeat if there is no meat in it? Have you ever gone down the meat aisle in Sainsbury’s and seen mince pies next to the chicken breasts? Exactly. Instead they are filled with raisins, the shrivelled and unwanted outcast of the fruit world. Have you ever heard someone say their favourite fruit is a raisin?

Exactly!! Although they look like delicious pastry parcels, looks aren’t everything. It’s what’s on the inside that counts, and the inside of a mince pie looks and tastes like an insect graveyard.

Does anyone actually like mince pies or is it just a right of passage into adulthood to buy them at Christmas to force feed to guests? Do people eat them solely because it is tradition or are there people who actually enjoy them? And if they’re so good, why do we only eat them once a year?

By refusing to eat them I am avoiding seemingly life or death questions that I don’t have the time or energy for during the festive season, such as commercial or homemade mince pies? Brandy butter or cream? Hot or cold? It doesn’t matter to me if it’s buried in ice cream, drowning in double cream, or accompanied by alcohol, I still refuse to eat anything labelled a mince pie. Despite the long list of alternative ‘mince pies’ created in an attempt to sell mince pies to people who don’t like them, I would much prefer a slice of stollen, a tower of profiteroles or a slab of trifle. To make things worse, they are now infiltrating other snacks too, and shockingly mince pie flavoured ice cream and even crisps now exist. Yes, you read correctly.

You can call me Scrooge all you like. Christmas is the most wonderful time of the year, so I will not ruin it for myself by following the crowd of people kidding themselves that they enjoy a mince pie just because it’s Christmas. Pass the Yule log, please!

words by: PHOEBE GRINTER design by: ORLAGH TURNER

10 - FEATURES issue 175

words by: AMY KING design by: LUISA DE LA CONCHA MONTES Since as early as 1600 BC, women have been experimenting the burden of contraception, alongside the dangerous physical and mental side effects that come with it. In the Ancient World, women would go to extreme lengths to avoid pregnancy, including methods that made use of stones, sodium carbonate, honey, and a flower known as ‘Queen Anne’s Lace’ (which is still used as a herbal contraceptive method in India). Since the rise of contraception in Britain in the 19th century, millions of women have faced side effects including heart attacks, strokes, blood clots, and liver tumors due to hormonal contraceptives.

In the past 50 years there have been dramatic advances in female contraception choices compared to men. Men’s only forms of contraception are condoms or vasectomies, in comparison to over 10 options available to females. As hormonal contraceptives aren’t available to men, they face minor side effects when using their choice of contraception. It is no males’ fault that their choices of birth control are slim, but the concept has existed for hundred of years now - so why has the scientific world created multiple options for females and so few for males?

A male contraceptive injection was trialled on 320 healthy men in 2016 and was recorded as 96% effective, as reported by ITV News. Regardless of the high success rates, the trial ended due to numerous side effects such as mood changes, depression, pain at the injection site, and increased libido. When compared to the side effects caused by female contraceptive methods (headaches, nausea, menstrual cramps, yeast infections, breast tenderness, acne, mood swings, weight gain, and decreased libido), the male contraceptive injections’ side effects don’t seem abnormal or life threatening. In fact, these effects have already been seen from the female injection.

Recent studies that were heavily reported by the media also claimed that users of ‘the pill’ were more likely to receive a prescription for antidepressants at a later stage, or to be diagnosed with depression. The study made headlines around the world such as “Are YOU on the Pill? You’re more likely to be depressed: Women who use contraception are up to 70 per cent more likely to be on antidepressants,” and “The Pill has been linked to depression. Why isn’t this more of a scandal?”.

So, why was the trial discontinued if what was happening to the males already happens to thousands of women worldwide?

This question has stirred scientists and healthcare professionals into researching hormonal and steroid contraceptives for males so that females don’t have to continue to endure more medical and invasive contraceptives.

In March 2019, American researcher Dr. Christina Wang (from The Los Angeles Biomed Research Institute) announced that their version of the male contraceptive pill appears to be safe whilst successfully reducing levels of hormones key to sperm production, making it the first hormonal male contraceptive of its time with no major defaults. Due to the safety measures experienced when creating any new medication, Dr. Wang also stated that although the male contraceptive pill is working in the right direction, “safe, reversible hormonal male contraception should be available in about 10 years”.

Even though tests are taking place to create a male contraceptive pill, the fact that it has taken this long for one to be created raises some serious questions. Additionally, the fact that the contraceptives that were trialled were terminated because of side effects that are already experienced by women shows a discrepancy between the responsibilities of both genders for sexual implications and childbirth. Hopefully, one day we can live in a society where both females and males can hold the weight of contraceptive choices and sexual protection equally.

issue 175

FEATURES - 11

DECLUTTER YOUR TIMELINE 24 hours. That’s the amount of time most of us spend online per week and, according to Ofcom’s “A Decade of Digital Dependency” report in 2018, that’s just the average. 16 to 24-year-olds (pretty much us) are actually online for 34.3 hours a week, and within five minutes of opening their eyes, 65% of people under 30 have already checked their phone.

The pressure this obsession comes with goes without saying. Jesy Nelson’s inspirational documentary Odd One Out earlier this year paid homage to some of the consequences social media can have on our mental health. The Little Mix star courageously detailed the relentless abuse she faced online following her X Factor win, shockingly revealing just before it aired in September that she had attempted to take her own life in 2013. Her story strongly resonated with audiences; all of us can relate to having insecurities about our appearance, and a lot of them stem from the things we see on social media.

The internet has become an essential part of our lives, but this doesn’t necessarily have to be a negative thing. Keyboard warriors aside, our social media spaces have the potential to enrich our lives with creativity and inspiration, but it’s in our hands to make it that way. It’s up to us to make our online spaces fill us with joy instead of dread – and Quench is here to help!

STEP ONE: REALISE YOUR GOAL

STEP THREE: DECLUTTER AND BLOCK

Think about what you want to use your social media for. Is it a space to inspire you, or one to keep up to date with news and events? Do you want to have a laugh or simply check what your favorite celebs are up to? There’s nothing stopping you from using your social media for all of these reasons and more, but if every time you open up Instagram you are becoming overwhelmed with junk and noise from accounts you just don’t care about, then it’s time for a detox.

STEP TWO: CHECK YOUR PROFILE I’m not one to tell anyone to get a theme going, but you are a contributor to online spaces too! Refresh your bio, post some new pictures, try out the Instagram highlights, stop posting pointless things on your story, etcetera. This is so important for good first impressions, especially for professional endeavors, and accounts like LinkedIn. Luckily, Quench has done some of the hard work for you.

Here’s our suggestions for the brightest and most inspirational Instagram accounts we could find.

Huge thanks to all our Quench contributors for their suggestions

SELF CARE & BODY POSITIVITY @prettyprogress23 @myfacestory @stacieswift @thongria @Hot4theSpot @bodyposipanda @theslumflower @mattzhaig @gurlstalk

POLITICS & ACTIVISM @scarcurtis @textpostfeminist @florencegiven @gavinwilliamson.mp @jameelajamilofficial @martigcummings PLANTS, NATURE AND SUSTAINABILITY @houseplantclub @natgeo @lostinplantopia @basillicana @wholesomeculture @educatedearthling @natgeo

Channel your inner Marie Kondo – does seeing this account on your timeline ‘spark joy’ and add to your existence? If not, block. Do this regularly! You aren’t the same person you were when you were thirteen, so the people you follow shouldn’t be staying the same either. Instead, it should evolve and grow alongside you. If an account makes you feel anything other than happy, calm and positive, then there’s no point giving them airtime. Unfollow the multiple accounts your friends have accumulated over the years, just keep up to date with their latest one.

Seeing one too many picture-perfect Instagram models? Do not feel any guilt cutting them from your timeline if it’s getting you down. Following ten different horoscope accounts? (We all know someone!) then maybe it’s time to think about opening up that space for something new. Perhaps the greatest advice is to look at your own interaction – if you’re not liking, sharing, retweeting, and instead just scrolling straight past, what is the point?

MOTIVATION @thebodycoach @gracebeverly @thefemalehustlers

STEP FOUR:

REFOLLOW SLOWLY!

FOR SOME LOLS @betches @smoothiethecat @donte.colley @cats_of_instagram @80s_90s_00s CREATIVITY @nathanwpylestrangeplanet @awardsforgoodboys @brian_bilston @explorerssaurus @littlearthlings @sarahdayarts LIFESTYLE & FOOD @alexandradudley @nigelslater @rivercottagehq @amandalouiseinteriors @lamaisonpierrefrey @iamlucymoon, @unjadedjade words and design by: RHIANNA HURREN-MYERS

12 - FEATURES issue 175

Have yourself a sustai As the festive season begins to reveal its glittering, bright, (and expensive) head, it is easy to forget that the excessive surge in spending has adverse impacts on the environment. Behind the wrapping paper and carols, there are unethical working conditions, alongside an unfathomable amount of waste. It is therefore important that we invest our pennies in businesses that offer sustainable solutions to such crazy consumerism.

HOUSE PLANTS

By Elly Savva Coyle The simplicity of houseplants is the perfect antidote to the over-indulgence and consumerism of the Christmas period. In its essence, it is a small gift of life - a little portion of the natural world that you can add into a special person’s life. It’s a present that can last for years on end; becoming a constant alongside them as their life changes. Prices start really cheap, but you can spend a little more if you were wanting something extra special.

Gift them with a few instructions on how to care for it (e.g. the light & water requirements), and you’ll have a thoughtful, sustainable, and really special present.

FOLDABLE KEYRING STRAW

By Rhianna Hurren-Myers Ok, fine - straws are admittedly not a huge part of the climate crisis, but they do play a role. I’ve carried a foldable metal straw on my keychain for over a year, and it is hands down the most useful gadget I own. It comes in a range of colours; blue, green, black - I’ve opted for baby pink (anyone that knows me will not be surprised by this). It even has a handy wire cleaner tucked inside. Channel your inner Greta with this perfect, sustainably inspired gift and say #NO to plastic straws for as little as a pound on eBay.

RE-USABLE WATER BOTTLES

B_ND AND TALA BY GRACE BEVERLEY

By Niamh Sullivan Grace Beverley, founder and director of TALA and B_ND, recognised the need for companies to put ethics before fast production and low prices. Grace’s active-wear range TALA provides consumers with on-trend products which exhibit sustainability. This is shown by the REC and CORE collection which is made of plastic bottles and factory off-cuts, that would otherwise have been dumped in landfill. As well as having a transparent supply chain which supports workers with fair pay and favourable working conditions, TALA provides both a sustainable gift for a loved one and gym gear to start fitness-based new year resolutions.

By Imogen Green Chilly’s: £20 – The OG of reusable bottles. Due to the 18/8 stainless steel, it is sure to keep your beverages cold for 24 hours, and hot for 12 - plus it is BPA free.

Swell: £25 – Aside being partnered with UNICEF to help make progress in the world, they too are BPA free, and will keep your drinks cold for 24 hours, and hot for 12.

Waterdrop Steel Bottle: £29 – This hardcore yet sleek bottle is designed and built for hard-use. From the minimalist bamboo lid to the double-stainless steel inside, it makes for a worth-while purchase.

Dopper Yellow Water Bottle: £12.50 – This multi-use bottle is perfect to use on the go, and can also serve as a jug and cup. Dopper is a climate-neutral brand and its bottles are both BPA free, and fully recyclable.

issue 175

FEATURES - 13

inable little Christmas

design by: REBECCA ASTILL

TOILET TWINNING

UPCYCLING

By Matt Tomlin Upcycling doesn’t degrade the original quality of waste products like recycling does, and instead aims to upgrade waste products into things much better looking than before. One example is water bottles turned into vases. For more information on Upcycling or upcycled gifts, there is a really helpful website with lots of advice called “Upcycle That”. Hopefully you’ll find some creativity for gift-giving from this platform as Christmas comes up.

By Hannah Penwright Going to the toilet probably isn’t your main concern this Christmas, but for 2.3 billion people, it comes high on the list. That’s because they don’t have access to a toilet, meaning they’re at risk of dying of preventable diseases. Twinning your toilet allows charities to teach communities about the importance of sanitation as well as building toilets in areas hit with disaster or conflict. It costs £60 and is a great present to buy for your whole family, or for housemates to share.

You can visit the Toilet Twinning website if you would like to find out more.

LUSH PRODUCTS

CHARITY SHOPS

By Sasha Nagura Working in a charity shop truly opens your eyes to the wonders you can come across. A limited-edition vinyl; a best-selling book; and pristine clothes from the likes of Levi’s, Urban Outfitters and Burberry. All for a fraction of the original price.

By charity shopping at Christmas, your negative contributions to the environment can be significantly reduced through recycling. Equally, it reduces the demand for fast fashion and therefore, the negative effects of production are lessened so you can shop guilt-free. Best of all, if you take the time and patience, amazing gifts for friends and family can be bought for 1/3 of the price - all whilst donating to charity!

TOMS ONE FOR ONE SCHEME

By Katherine Mallett The beloved cosmetic company, Lush, is an ideal solution to try and combat unsustainable spending. Lush offers a plethora of products from bath bombs to makeup brushes (who knew?!) that will suit any and all pampering needs.

All Lush products are organic and made by workers who are given fair pay, and not subjected to inhumane conditions.

Lush prides itself on its cruelty-free policy and leads an on-going campaign to fight animal testing. If the delicious smells, innovative gift boxes, and sustainable ethos doesn’t entice you, then who knows what will. After all, ‘tis the season for conscious consumerism.

By Courtney Moody TOMS quality footwear, a gift that will encourage sustainability within communities, improve standards of living for those in need, all whilst being mindful of the environment. For every pair purchased, the brand collaborates with their Giving Partners to distribute the same number of shoes to adults and children in need across more than 70 countries worldwide. TOMS’ One-for-One scheme means that your purchase will not only please your loved one at Christmas, but will have a direct and positive impact for those who need it most. So far, over 2 million children in poverty have been protected from hookworm thanks to TOMS’ mindful scheme. The forward-thinking brand also offer student discount - bonus!

14 - FEATURES issue 175

words and design by: ELLY SAVVA COYLE

A

I TALG S O N S HTIE G U O N

In the noughties there was all of the excitement and hope that came with a new millennia. There was new technology, commotion, and a unique form of celebrity culture. Musical chart toppers included the Black Eyed Peas, Christina Aguilera and the Pussycat Dolls.

On our screens, reality TV took off with the arrival of Big Brother in 2000, followed by Pop Idol in 2002 - in which Will Young stole the throne from the bookies favourite Gareth Gates. Before the technology of iPhones, Wi-Fi and Instagram, we had dial-up, MSN and flip phones. The style was questionable: low-rise jeans were all the range, brows were plucked pencil-thin and Ugg Boots were the epitome of cool. Luckily, most of these fashion choices were left behind in the era - just like having the freedom to smoke in pubs, which came to an end with the smoking ban in 2007.

Another big aspect of the noughties was a hugely powerful, invasive, and misogynistic media. In many ways, it was the peak of a celebrity culture stoked by frenzied paparazzi who fuelled a barrage of celebrity tabloid scandals. The pack mentality of the press that intensified with the hounding of Princess Diana in the nineties was escalated further in the tech-savvy noughties. Lifestyle magazines like OK!, Now and Heat took off as the public revelled in the ability to gossip about the lives of celebrities in a whole new intimate way.

issue 175

FEATURES - 15

One of the biggest developments in the press since the noughties has been the rise of social media. Although this has created new challenges such as tackling the spreading of disinformation on sites such as Facebook and Twitter, it has also democratised the way that the media works. Those in the spotlight now have much more ability to control their own narrative and respond to what is said about them. A great example of this can be seen

by Lily Allen’s response to an ‘upskirting’ incidenct in 2014.

After a Twitter user posted a revealing picture of the singer, she responded with “LOOK AT MY 2014 NEATLY TRIMMED VAGINA, 3 HUMANS CAME OUT OF THERE”. By refusing to be shamed, Lily Allen reclaimed her power and instead used the pictures to her advantage.

WHAT’S CHANGED? Before the invention of social media, there were no direct channels between the private lives of celebrities and their fans. This meant that publicists, record labels, and the press could carefully choreograph the image that was presented of a star. A key figure in the world of celebrity PR at the time was the infamous Max Clifford. During the decade he was a master manipulator of the media, now he is an emblem of a much murkier time in journalism. Clifford had the power to both make and break careers. His clients included huge names such as O.J Simpson, Simon Cowell, and Muhammad Ali. He admitted peddling false stories to raise the profiles of individuals, such as the infamous ‘Freddie Starr ate my hamster’ headline. The recent Channel 4 documentary about the reality star Jade Goody uncomfortably highlighted the way that he created a media circus around her final days. On Clifford’s actions around the time of Goody’s death, Jeff Brazier said: “He did well off it, yes.

Did he add to the quality of her life? No. But, again, I just had to take my backseat”.

The Leveson Inquiry that began in 2011 examined the practices, ethics and culture of the UK press in the wake of the phonehacking scandal. The hearings brought the public’s attention to the misery that had been caused by the media’s invasion of privacy in celebrities’ lives. Although the Prime Minister David Cameron refused to implement the legislation suggested by the Leveson reports, it had a huge impact on public attitudes towards the industry.

Although we are still a while away from having a wholly accepting media, celebrities are now allowed more of the luxury of being human. A lot of work has been done by activists to de-stigmatise the conversations around mental health and body image. In many ways, this shift in our awareness has also been reflected by our media. Thinking back to the tabloid documentation of Lindsay Lohan’s addictions, Nicole Richie’s fluctuating weight and Britney Spears’ 2007 struggles now feels deeply voyeuristic and uncomfortable. If the difficulties of these women were playing out today, it is undeniable that there would be media speculation. However, it is difficult to imagine that the public volatility encouraged by the press would be the same.

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December is a joyous and festive time around the world for many different reasons. But most December festivities in the northern hemisphere have a common origin: The Winter Solstice. This year, the shortest day of the year falls on December the 22nd. The word ‘solstice’ comes, as do so many other words, from the Latin Solstitium, meaning ‘sun standstill’. The Romans believed that on this day the sun would stand still, as sunrise and sunset changed direction.

The cultural significance of the Winter Solstice dates back to the Neolithic times, when astrological events were used to measure and keep track of the seasons.

Doing so was especially important due to the shortage of food in those times. People often had to plan ahead, as January and February were the coldest months in the northern hemisphere, making food a scarce good. To avoid having to feed their animals during those months, the prehistoric people would slaughter their animals in December, on the Winter Solstice. Also, during that time, the wine and beer of the year finished fermenting and would be ready to drink, ensuring that the winter solstice was one of the most extravagant festivals of the year. In a lot of pagan societies however, this festival would be at the start of the pagan day, which is the evening before the winter solstice.

In Europe, the pagan Scandinavian and Germanic people celebrated Yule, a twelve day ‘midwinter’ holiday, where the reawakening of nature was celebrated.

Customs such as the tree, the wheat and the yule log seen in modern Christmas celebrations originally stem from these Yule celebrations. In Scandinavia, Christmas is still called Jul, and as the Jul

was one of Odin’s many names, the Viking traditions are often still honoured during this wintertime.

Two of the most famous Neolithic monuments linked with the celebration of Yule are Newgrange in Ireland, and Stonehenge in England, dating back to 3200 BC and 3000-2000 BC respectively.

Their importance and fame can be attributed to the alignment of their primary axes. Newgrange is aligned towards the sunrise of the Winter Solstice, and Stonehenge to the sunset of the Winter Solstice.

Even though most of the Christmas traditions derive from Yule, the probable reason this festival got adapted into Christianity is the Romans. In Ancient Rome, the festival of Saturnalia, which began on the 17th of December and lasted seven days, was celebrated. This festival honoured the God Saturn where people would make sacrifices at his temple. Schools and businesses would close, and people would forget their old quarrels for the time being. On December the 25th the Romans would then celebrate Sol Invictus, the invisible sun, once again marking the significance of the winter solstice.

The celebration of the Winter Solstice is not limited to the northern hemisphere, as it can also be found in other cultures around the world. In East Asia, the winter solstice or Dongzhi in Chinese, marks one of the most important days of the year where the return of various gods of the sun is celebrated, and people are united by the festivities. Similarly, in the Hindu calendar, the sun deity Surya is celebrated on Makara Sankranti, also known as Makaraa Sankrānti or Maghi, the day of the Winter Solstice.

In Iran, Yalda or the 40th night, also known as Shabe Chelleh, is celebrated. This celebration is one of the oldest Iranian traditions, as it dates back to the time of ancient Persia.

So, even if you don’t go to Stonehenge to worship the days getting longer, and only celebrate Christmas, you’ll still be part of a re-imagined, millennial-old celebration.

words by: SAI design by: ORLAGH TURNER

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words by: ANDREA GAINI design by: ORLAGH TURNER Have you ever wished there was a machine that could gather all the information you need about a topic, analyse it and then turn it into a first-class essay? Well, you don’t need to go much further into the future to find it.

We live in the age of digital and scientific developments.

Discoveries and new updates to the current technological advancements have become a daily task. In particular, in the world of Artificial Intelligence, scientists have been making incredibly fast improvements in the last few decades, and they have developed machines that can process data and formulate conclusions better than humans.

In 1997, for example, the world’s greatest chess player, Garry Kasparov, was beaten for the first time in history in a game of chess by what he defined as a “$10m alarm clock” – aka IBM’s Deep Blue computer. Since this memorable event, researchers have made further improvements to the AI technologies and have been able to apply these to many other fields of work, including the creative world –one which humans never thought possible to be beaten at.

In 2016, scientists applied AI to Go, a game similar to chess invented in China. The result was that on their 37th move, the AI completed a procedure that had never been done by a human mind, using its own artificial creativity. Nowadays, most self-publishing Kindle writers already utilise AI in order to perfect their manuscripts. Kindle Spy, for example, is an app that analyses lucrative topics based on keywords occurrences in bestsellers and helps the writer find an idea for a new book.

ProWritingAid is also an AI software that helps writers improve their writing skills by comparing their work with other fiction works and, based on that, the AI gives them tips regarding pacing, dialogue, word choice, and other stylistic choices.

Recent studies conducted by Google have also shown incredible adaptability of AI to other creative fields, in particular to literature. In one of their works conducted with Stanford University and the University of Massachusetts, Google has been trying to improve the machine’s natural language by feeding them over 11,000 human novels from which the machines could gather data to understand the variances of human language.

The speed at which AI can absorb data makes the possibilities of technological advancement in the field incredibly quick.

Machines are already being used to produce literary content and adjusted to become more and more realistic. Ross Goodwin is the scientist who created a Long Short-Term Memory that writes screenplays. One of its products has already made its cinema debut with a short film called Sunspring directed by Oscar Sharp. The film was featured at the Sci-Fi London and was nominated in the Top 10 Best Short Films.

While it is very hard to predict where the AI could develop from here, and how the world around it will adapt to it, it is

important to know the potentials of such technologies.

Some have argued that machines are, as far as today goes, data processors, which leaves out all the complexities of thought-process held in the human brain. What is notable is that life is changing, and AI is becoming an essential part of our daily lives, making our lives better, and in some cases even directly replacing our work.

Literature will have to find a way to adapt to these changes as well as all other fields in which AI is tapping into.

18 - CULTURE issue 175 words by: NEUS FORNER design by: JOSH ONG

Experiences I believe gifting someone with an experience can be one of the best present ideas, especially if you share it with the person you’re gifting it to. Not only do they last longer, but they tend to be more engaging and entertaining. There are many immaterial gifts, but here are some of my favourites.

As obvious as it sounds, theatre tickets are always a good idea. A musical, a tragedy, something comedic: there’s a play for everyone. Accompanying someone you care about to watch a play can be a really enjoyable experience. It’s worth saying that opening nights are usually theatre fans’ favourites, so be on the lookout for those. On the same note, a meet-and-greet pass for their favourite play could be a once in a lifetime experience. Being able to meet the cast of actors that act in your favourite play is the dream of any theatre geek.

Another great idea for someone who loves theatre is a membership card for either ticket providers or for the theatre itself. With this, they might have discounts and other facilities to reserve tickets, and who wouldn’t love that? Especially if they are avid fans and are always making time to go and see a play.

For the more artsy friend, tickets for art exhibitions could do the trick. Another great idea could be to gift them a couple of art classes. They could be about a technique they already know but want to improve, or something completely new and innovative that they have never done. Life drawing classes, watercolour, pottery, etc… This could encourage that friend that has talent but never gets the chance to practice. Also, this could be easy to find, as there is always a professional who is willing to teach new tricks and new techniques for a good price.

Moving on, for the book lover, a ticket for a bookish convention is a great idea. During these conventions, they give out goodies, free books, and most importantly, you can meet some of your favourite authors. At these conventions, writers get together and talk at different panels about their books, specific genres, and writing techniques. Imagine being able to ask questions about one of your favourite books to its author, wouldn’t that be amazing?

issue 175

The jolly season is upon us, and so is the stress of finding everyone the perfect gift without spending all your savings. Yes, we’ve all been there. Should I get him this or that? Will she enjoy something like that?

Being out of gift ideas is one of the most frustrating things that can happen during the Christmas season.

I have gathered a list of some of the best presents (both material and immaterial) that almost anyone with a passion for books, art, or theatre would enjoy.

Here is the ultimate wishlist for any culture geek.

Material Gifts First and foremost, some form of instant camera. Who isn’t into photography nowadays?

You can help them capture one of a kind memories with this retro gift. Not being able to retake the picture, or select the one that is ‘best’ is the magic of it. These small pictures also serve as decorations. Pose, focus, and shoot!

If they’re into photography, a phone lens kit can also be a great choice. These packs come with multiple lenses to take their daily phone photography to another level. An extremely original gift that can be enjoyed by many, This next gift is, in my opinion, one of the most original: A subscription box. A subscription box is a recurring monthly delivery of niche products. These boxes could be about books, theatre, beauty, stationery, a particular fandom, and others. If you can think of something, it probably has a subscription box. Not knowing exactly what is being delivered every month is exciting, and it also feels like Christmas every month. Win-win!

For the bookish friend, besides gifting them a book (which is something you can’t go wrong with), a very handy gift idea is a gift card for their favourite bookstore. This is a lifesaver, book lovers are always broke (trust me, I know this), and what better gift than to give them the ability to buy new books.

Something really handy to give as a gift is a tote bag. Besides being environmentallyfriendly (which we love), tote bags can have any type of design. A book quote, an image, a broadway song - you can find tote bags with whatever you’re looking for, making it a great gift for anyone. You can even design the tote bag yourself to fit the likes of the person you are gifting it to. Alongside tote bags, I love gifting pins. They can be displayed in backpacks, tote bags, or even in jackets to spice them up. And, similarly to tote bags, there are pins about everything.

For a decor piece, art prints are the way to go. I think it is one of the best ways to decorate your room and make it a reflection of your personality. Also, try buying from small artists, that way you can support and appreciate their art.

Other gifts that you can’t go wrong with are notebooks or journals. From leatherbound journals to one-line a day journals, and everything in between. If you’re looking for an artistic gift for your artsy friend, an art journal kit would be a great idea, that way they can keep all of their art compiled in one place that is easy to take anywhere they go. Also, who gets tired of receiving notebooks?

I don’t.

For the writer in your life, a pack of magnetic words for their fridge is a fun pastime they’ll love. They can write while looking for their morning milk. Is there anything better than that?

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PLEASE DEETE THESE BORDERS WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED DESIGNING

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TO SPEND

Christmas, although magical and exciting, is probably the most stressful time of year. It’s so easy to get caught up in the rush of shopping, decorating, and just generally spending money. Decorations, food, presents – it all adds up. Trying to find the perfect gift for a loved one within your budget, while making it personal, can be very difficult. In all honesty, I can’t think of anything better than sitting in front of a fireplace with a hot drink on a cold festive night with a new book. Because of this, a book is perhaps one of the most personal gifts to give and receive.

In Iceland, this is a tradition that is enforced every year. Jolabokaflod, which roughly translates to ‘Christmas book flood’, is a tradition which began during World War II. Paper was not rationed and publishers would release new titles in the final months of the year. Therefore, the people of Iceland gave books as gifts and have continued to for decades.

They exchange them on Christmas Eve and spend the evening reading them. From brand new books to Christmas classics, fiction, non-fiction, light-hearted novels or thoughtprovoking tales, there’s something for everyone. Here are some of my recommendations of books that I think would be perfect reads for a cosy Christmas Eve night.

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words by: KATIE WAITS design by: DOMINIKA MATUSIAK

The Haunted Hotel by Wilkie Collins Telling Christmas ghost stories is a tradition that can be traced back centuries. Sharing sinister stories on winter nights is a fantastic way to get together with family and friends and bond over fictional terrors. A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens is a brilliant example of a ghostly Christmas tale. However, if you want to try something different, Wilkie Collins’ The Haunted Hotel is an excellent alternative! Set in 19th century Venice, we follow the story of a family whose relative has died in suspicious circumstances, and the events that follow his death are incredibly strange. Intriguing and bizarre, this novel is full of twists, suspense, and the supernatural. The mysteries within are sure to keep you awake on a Christmas Eve night.

The Snow Child by Eowyn Ivey As the title suggests, The Snow Child is, without a doubt, a wintery read. The novel is set in Alaska in 1920, where the married couple Jack and Mabel are in despair after losing their child. Mabel spends her time in mourning. After building a child out of snow one night, their lives are changed by a young girl called Faina, who the couple eventually come to love as their own. Based on a Russian fairytale, this is a gently-paced, atmospheric novel that will carry you on this family’s journey. The emotional story is a profound, bittersweet reminder about the power that love can have in the face of loss. It’s definitely a book to read wrapped in a blanket, surrounded by loved ones.

The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society

by Mary Ann Shaffer, Annie Barrows Set one year after the end of World War II, The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society is the terrific tale of Juliet Ashton. She is an author who exchanges letters Peel Pie Society. A place once under Nazi occupation, she discovers that the Guer nsey society was a way for a small group of people to protect themselves. On visiting the stranger she writes to, Juliet begins to get to know the members of the society and their moving stories. Historical and poignant, this novel could be linked to the Icelandic Christmas tradition. Both the society in this book and Jolabokaflod use literature to make the most out of a bad situation, to reflect on how much of an impact it can have and how it brings people together.

H is for Hawk by Helen Macdonald If you prefer non-fiction books, H is for Hawk is worth a read. Helen Macdonald is a naturalist, who uses this book to tell the story of the time she spent training a goshawk after her father’s sudden passing in 2007. Struggling in her grief, she decides to purchase this bird in order to help her through the challenging reality of the grieving process. The story is a journey through healing, hope, and memories. If you’re looking for a raw and honest read at Christmas, Macdonald’s book is one to try. It can remind us in nearing the end of the year that our troubles can be healed, and that we can look back proudly on our accomplishments, however big or small they are. H is for Hawk is optimistic and gripping, emphasising the importance of making the most of what we have.

Stardust by Neil Gaiman You’ve probably heard of the movie, but what you might not know is that Stardust is a novel written by Neil Gaiman, author of American Gods and Good Omens. Personally, I’ve included this book on this list of recommendations as I received it a couple of years ago for Christmas, and it has been a favourite ever since. It is a short but nonetheless spellbinding novel, filled with magic and fantasy – a magnificent book to read at the most enchanting time of year! The book differs from the movie but it still provides a brilliant sense of escapism with vivid descriptions and mystical characters.

If you dedicate a few hours to Stardust this Christmas Eve, you'll finish it without disappointment.

Some further recommendations:

The Hogfather – Terry Pratchett Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone – J.K. Rowling The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe – C.S. Lewis A Christmas Carol – Charles Dickens Mudlarking – Lara Maiklem The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry – Rachel Joyce I’ll Give You The Sun – Jandy Nelson

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NADOLIG

NEWYDD Symud i Brifysgol yn gam eithaf mawr yn ein bywydau ac yn gallu bod yn anodd iawn i rai yn enwedig wrth i ni agosâi at wyliau fel Nadolig. Ond paid becso mae ‘na phethau allwch chi neud dros Nadolig i wneud eich amser yn Brifysgol yn teimlo yn gartrefol. Gall yr uchod golygu naillai pethau fel ‘Secret Santa’ neu greu cinio Nadolig eich hun. Dyma gwpwl o syniadau i greu ‘Flatmas’ neu Nadolig newydd.

Bwyd

Gwylio ffilms a teledu Nadolig

Pryd mae unrhyw un yn drafod Nadolig y peth cyntaf rydyn nhw’n meddwl amdano’ yw’r bwyd, yn bennaf cinio Nadolig. Mae coginio cacennau a bisgedi Nadolig yn dod llaw yn llaw gyda’r gwyliau a thywydd oer, does dim byd yn ddweud Nadolig na’r arogl o bethau yn y ffwrn. Mae'r Terry’s, y Ferrero’s a’r Matchmakers yn dod allan, ac mae Mam wedi prynu’r bwrdd caws yn barod am y dydd, ond beth allwch chi neud yn Brifysgol? I greu'r ‘Flatmas’ perffaith allwch chi ac eich fflat creu cinio Nadolig ar gyllideb, gyda Lidl yn Cathays ar eich drws gallwch chi hyd yn oed prynu Bailey’s ffug am £3.99.

Mae 'na twrcis rhad ond hefyd opsiynau i lysieuwyr a feganiaid felly gall bawb cymryd rhan. Felly, prynu’r cracers Nadolig a mynd yn wyllt wrth wisgo hetiau papur a darllen jôcs rubbish rydych ‘di clywed pob blwyddyn ers oeddech yn blentyn.

Mae Nadolig yn meddwl un peth, ffilmiau Nadolig! Gydag opsiynau rhamantus fel Love Actually a It’s a Wonderful Life, opsiynau i blant fel Frozen a Polar Express a hefyd opsiwn arswydus fel Krampus, mae ‘na rhywbeth i bawb. Does dim byd gwell yn yr amser oer yma o flwyddyn, na cwtcho lan hefo siocled poeth a blanced wrth wylio ffilm. Fy hoff ffilm i yn ystod Nadolig yw Elf, y ffilm classic yma yn wneud i fi chwerthin yn ddi-ffael pob Nadolig, gallai hyd yn oed wylio fe yn yr Haf, ond paid dweud wrth unrhyw un.Cofiwch hefyd nad yn unig mae ‘na ffilms arno yn ystod Nadolig, ond hefyd specials teledu! Fel yr episode classic o Doctor Who gyda David Tennant a Kylie Minogue ar y Titanic, neu yn well na hynny'r special Nadolig o Gavin and Stacey. Gallwch chi felly gwylio'r uchod fel fflat neu ar eich hun, mae fe'n lan i ti!

Traddodiadau Nadolig

‘Secret Santa’

Ar ôl i’r cloc droi i ganol nos ar y gyntaf o Dachwedd mae hawl gyda chi i ddechrau chwarae caneuon Nadolig, yn ôl y gyfraith wrth gwrs. Felly wrth i chi cynnal eich ‘Flatmas’ cofiwch i blasto Wizard a Wham! tan ddiwedd y nos. Un o fy hoff bethau fi i wneud adeg Nadolig yw chwipio allan y gemau fwrdd fel Monopoly (er bod o’n ddechrau nifer fawr o ddadleuon yn fy nghartref). Bydd chwarae gemau fwrdd neu hyd yn oed gemau digidol yn ychwanegu at y naws cartrefol y noson.

Y ffordd fwyaf rhad i’r fflat i gyd cael anrhegion ar gyllideb. Y lle orau i ddechrau yw rhoi terfyn wario i bawb efallai £5-£15, ar ddiwedd y dydd rydyn ni’n fyfyrwyr ac felly methu gwario niferoedd ar anrhegion (o brofiad fy hun wnaeth fflat i wneud cymysgedd o anrhegion).Naillai allwch chi brynu anrhegion doniol, ystyriol neu DIY! Hefyd, wrth wneud ‘Secret Santa’ yr un ddydd a’r cinio Nadolig mae gennych chi ‘Flatmas’ bach cyn mynd adref i Nadolig go iawn. Mae ‘Secret santa’ yn y peth gorau i weld pwy sydd gwir yn adnabod chi a pwy sydd yn prynu taleb siop munud olaf!

Felly gobeithio rydych yn cael Nadolig ffug yn eich fflat eleni, ac yn cael eich ysbrydoli gan o leiaf cwpwl o fy syniadau.

Chwaraewch bach o Mariah Carey tra bod chi’n coginio, cwtcho lan wrth wylio’r Grinch ac edrychwch flaen i wylio special newydd o Gavin and Stacey eleni! words by: INDIGO JONES design by: DOMINIKA MATUSIAK

issue 175

Nadolig yng Nghaerdydd geiriau gan: NIAMH GOODWIN-THOMAS llun gan: ELAINE TANG Mae o’n glawio a gwyntog ac felly rydym yn gwybod bod y Gaeaf gwir wedi cyrraedd, ond be mae ‘na i’w neud yng Nghaerdydd amser yma flwyddyn? Gyda’r tywydd ofnadwy yma mae gwyliau braf yn dod ‘fyd, fel Nadolig Noswyl Blwyddyn Newydd sy’n llenwi’r amser ‘da nifer o ddigwyddiadau hwyl. Hyd yn oed os nad oes gennych chi diddordeb yn yr wyliau yma mae Caerdydd yn llawn pethau i’w neud.

Yn ystod y gaeaf mae’r cyfnod fwyaf y flwyddyn: Nadolig. Rydyn ni barod yn weld siopau yn paratoi am y cyfnod ac mae nifer o bethau ymlaen i’w neud.

Yn gyntaf cymryd edrychiad ar y farchnad Nadolig yn ganol y ddinas. Dydy marchnad Nadolig Caerdydd ddim rhy wahanol i’r weddill yn y wlad, ond mae dal rhywbeth i fwynhau, mae fo’n wir yn teimlo fel Nadolig pryd rydych yna. Gan fod y farchnad fach yma yn gadael i fusnesau bach cael cynnig eu cynnyrch mae yna amrywiaeth o fwyd ar gael, a hefyd nifer fawr o opsiynau i brynu anrhegion i’ch teulu yn cynnwys anrhegion yn yr iaith Gymraeg.

Mae Winter Wonderland yn nol amser yma ‘fyd, yn cymryd lle tu allan i’r Amgueddfa Genedlaethol. Mae nifer o reidiau a standiau fwyd o gwmpas, ac un o’r pethau gorau amdano yw’r sglefrio ia.

Hefyd eleni rydyn nhw’n ychwanegu adran arall i’r sglefrio ia, y

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llwybr ia, sy’n cymryd chi trwy’r Gerddi Gorsedd a gadael i chi sglefrio’r holl ffordd. Does dim byd gwell na Winter Wonderland i’w cyffroi chi mewn i’r ysbryd Nadolig, yn enwedig yn y nos gyda chwpan o siocled poeth a’r golau yn sgleinio ar y coed. Mae yna goeden Nadolig llawn addurniadau, olwyn fawr, Bar Sur La Piste a hefyd cafodd Gondolas sgïo ei ychwanegu blwyddyn yma, felly eleni yw’r amser gorau i fynd, cymryd y cyfle i brofi ychwanegiadau newydd yma. Felly os nad yw siocled poeth a sglefrio ia lawr eich stryd chi wel pam na’i fynd i’r bar a chael cwpwl o beints yn lle, mae ‘na wir yn rhywbeth i bawb.

Yn ogystal â hyn mae ‘na hefyd werth cael edrychiad o amgylch Gaerdydd yn ystod y Gaeaf i ymweld â’r golau yn y dref! Gan ddweud hynny un o’r llefydd fwyaf prydferth yn ystod Nadolig yw’r Castell; o gwmpas amser yma mae nifer o ddigwyddiadau cael ei dal yno, a pwy sydd ddim yn hoffi treulio amser Nadolig yn Gastell? Hefyd o amgylch amser yma’r flwyddyn mae’r celfyddydau yn llwyddo. Gan ddweud hynny mae ‘na sioeau ymlaen dros y cyfnod yma, o Banto i Ballet mha nifer o opsiynau i ddewis, felly mae yna werth edrych ar wefan y Ganolfan Mileniwm, y Theatr Newydd, neu hyd yn oed sioeau Act One gymdeithas drama’r Brifysgol.

Os nad yw’r gwyliau yn peth chi mae digon i’w neud o gwmpas amser yma. Efallai bod diddordeb da chi yn hanes ac felly bydd trip i San Ffagan y peth perffaith iddo’ch, ble allwch chi gerdded ymysg yr hanes ei hunain. San Ffagan yn brydferth yn ystod y flwyddyn, ond yn ystod y Gaeaf mae bron pob ystafell yn cael tân bren ac felly mae ‘na wynt mwy traddodiadol amser yma’r flwyddyn.

Mae ‘na nifer o opsiynau tu fewn hefyd fel TreeTop Adventure Golf yn St Davids neu bowlio yn Superbowl Caerdydd ‘da grŵp o’ch mêts. Ac os nad ydych erioed di bod i’r amgueddfa mae o’n rhywle dylech fynd o leiaf unwaith, a pryd mae o’n oer a gwlyb tu allan does dim amser gwell. Mae yna arddangosfa yno ar y pryd yn ymwneud a hanes naturiol, felly oes diddordeb nawr i’w amser i fynd. Felly mwynhewch y Gaeaf, mwynhewch Nadolig a joio cael strôl fach o amgylch Caerdydd!

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words by: GAN JACOB MORRIS design by: YEON SU CHO

Fel y dywed Dafydd Iwan un tro ‘Mae’r wlad hon yn eiddo iti a mi’ o’r De i’r Gogledd ac o Fôn i Fynwy mae Cymru’n frith o dafodieithoedd gwahanol. Ond ers dod i’r brifysgol mae’n siŵr bod yr amrywiaeth yng ngeirfa eich cyd-fyfyrwyr wedi peri penbleth i chi ar fwy nag un achlysur. Weithiau, pan fydd dwy dafodiaith yn cwrdd, gall sgwrs troi’n aneglur lle nad yw’r naill un na’r llall ohonoch yn deall eich gilydd yn iawn. O ganlyniad, byddwch yn chwerthin yn ysgafn er mwyn osgoi’r lletchwithdod rhyngoch. Felly, dyma gyngor i chi ar sut i ymgodymu a rhai o eiriau tafodieithol y byddwch yn siŵr o glywed tra yn fyfyriwr yn y brifysgol.

A . ‘ A s i f f e t a ! ’ ( G o g l e d d - or l l e w i n ) : Defnyddir y gair hwn gan un o gymeriadau enwocaf o’r gyfres C’mon Midffild, Mr Picton. Yn gymeriad sy’n fyr iawn ei amynedd, yn aml fe glywn floedd o ‘Asiffeta!’ pan fydd rhywbeth o’i le ac wedi ei wylltio i’r byw. Gair i gall, peidiwch fentro â dweud wrth Gog nad ydych yn gweld C’mon Midffild yn ddoniol…ma nhw bron yn addoli’r peth!

B. Bigitan (De-orllewin): Pan fydd awydd gennych i boenydio neu brofocio eich ffrind, brawd neu chwaer gan fod dim byd gwell i wneud, gan geisio eich gorau glas i fynd ar ei nerfau.

C. Co*t (Caernarfon): Na, nid rheg mo’r gair hwn. Yn hytrach, yn fodd gwresog o gyfarch cyfaill yn iaith y Cofi ac mae’n siŵr dyma’r unig le yn y byd lle mae’r gair hwn yn briodol yn y fath cyd-destun.

Ch. Chwil (Gogledd): Wedi i chi fwrw’r dre i brofi noson drom ar y ddiod feddwol, mi fyddwch chi yn ‘chwil’.

D. ‘Dwe’ (Sir Benfro): I bawb arall yng Nghymru defnyddiwn y gair ‘ddoe’. Weithiau mae’n hawdd meddwl fod gan bobl Sir Benfro iaith

ei hun a’r ffordd orau o gofio acen pobl y sir yw drwy’r dywediad ‘wedd hi’n wer yn y cwed dwe’ sy’n golygu mewn Cymraeg Safonnol ‘Roedd hi’n oer yn y coed ddoe’, sy’n cyfleu acen dra unigryw’r ardal hon.

DD. Ddaru (Gogleddddwyrain): ‘Fe wnaeth ef/hi/nhw’.

Dyma dafodiaith ardal Conwy yn bennaf, ond weithiau fydd rhai yn gollwng yr ‘Dd’, felly mae ‘Aru’ cystal cyffredin.

E. ‘Escob Dafydd’ (De): Gair i ddefnyddio pan fydd rhywbeth yn mynd o’i le, ac rydych wedi gwylltio a drysu.

F. ‘yn Feddw gocls’ (De): Wedi meddwi’n dwll fel nifer o fyfyrwyr ar grôls y GymGym dros y flwyddyn. Dyma stad feddwol o fath gwahanol le na fydd person yn cofio fawr ddim o’r noson gynt ac mae’r cur pen a ddaw wedi’r noson drom yn ddigon i droi dyn yn t-total am weddill ei oes.

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Ff. ‘Ffili’ (De-Orllewin): Gair arall am ‘Methu’ yw hwn.

Er enghraifft ‘Dwi ffili aros i fynd i Clwb nos Sadwrn.’

G. ‘Glei’ (De-orllewin): Gair sy’n dueddol o gael i’w leisio yng Ngorllewin Cymru, defnyddir yn aml gan y cantor ‘The Welsh Whisperer’ fydd pob perfformiad ar lwyfan yn cynnwys bloedd o ‘Odw glei’.

Ng. ‘Ngwash i’ (Gogledd): Dyma ddywediad fydd person hŷn yn defnyddio fel gair o gysur i berson yn iau na hwy ei hun, ac mae’n ddywediad a ystyrir yn annwyl iawn.

H. ‘Hambon’ (De-Orllewin)’: Rhywun sy’n hanu o berfeddion cefn gwlad y Gorllewin ac sy’n amaethwr wrth reddf. Mae ei wrth ei fodd yn ei gynefin gyda chaeau gwastad, arogl tail yn ei ffroenau ac yn aelod gweithgar o gangen yr YFC lleol. Tra bydd dynoliaeth, fe fydd amaethu…ac hambons.

I. ‘Iesgyrn Dafydd’ (De-orllewin): Dyma air caiff i’w leisio fel rheg sy’n arwydd fod rhywbeth wedi gwylltio dyn yn llwyr. Defnyddir y gair hwn er mwyn osgoi defnyddio enw’r Arglwydd mewn ofer.

J. ‘Josgyn’(Gogledd): Os mai hambon sydd yn y De-orllewin, josgyn yw’r brid Gogleddol. Mae’n amaethwr i’r carn ac yn hoff beint…neu ddau wedi diwrnod o weithio’r tir.

Ph. ‘a phecyn bwyd’: Nid yw’r gair ‘pecyn’ o reidrwydd yn air sy’n perthyn i un rhan o Gymru yn benodol, ond dyma frawddeg mae nifer o athrawon a phlant ar draws Cymru yn hoff o ynganu cyn mynd ar drip ysgol ’Cofiwch got law a phecyn bwyd’.

R. ‘Rysgol (Gogledd): Golyga hyn ‘Yr Ysgol’. Os ydych erioed wedi darllen un o nofelau clasuron y Gymraeg ‘Un nos Ola Leuad’ gan Caradog Pritchard, mi fyddai’r gair hwn yn gyfarwydd i chi.

Rh. Rhewl (De-Orllewin): Heol, ffordd neu lôn ac mae yna lwyth ohonynt yng Nghaerdydd.

S. Sopan (Gogledd): Gair am ferch gas iawn, ast.

L. ‘Lapan’ (De): Yn debyg iawn i glebran, dyma’r weithred o siarad yn ddi-ddiwedd o fore gwyn tan hwyr. Fydd person sy’n lapan yn dueddol o fod yn uchel ei gloch ac yn hoff glywed llais ei hun.

T. Tycli (De): Gair yn berthnasol i Gwmtawe sy’n golygu ‘i wisgo’.

Ll. ‘Llyffanta’ (Ynys Môn): Cerdded o gwmpas heb wisgo’n ddigonol mewn oerni. Debyg ei fod yn arfer sydd wedi peidio â bod y dyddiau hyn, er ar un adeg pan fyddai plant yn chwarae mewn llofft heb wres ynddi yn hytrach na swatio dan y dillad yn eu gwelyau, byddent yn cael gorchymyn i “beidio â llyffanta”.

W. ‘Wes’ (De-orllewin): I bawb arall golyga’r gair hwn ‘oes’. Dyma air sy’n rhan annatod o eirfa’r Gorllewin Gwyllt.

M. ‘Mynaffarni’ (De): Gair arall o’r de sy’n arwydd o berson sydd wedi syrffedi’n llwyr.

N. ‘Nain’ (Gogledd): Bydd pobl yn y De yn dueddol o’i galw nhw’n ‘Mamgu’. Maen nhw’n gogyddion o fri ac o bosib dyma bobl orau’r byd.

O. ‘Ogla’(Gogledd): Mewn Cymraeg Safonol dywedir ‘arogli’ ac yn y De, dywedir gwynto.

P. ‘Pwdredd’ (De): Person diog sy’n dda i ddim.

U. Uffach (Canolbarth): Pan fydd rhywbeth yn ofnadwy.

Y. ‘Yffach gols’ (De-orllewin): Ceir ymdeimlad fod gan y Cymry amryw o eiriau ar gyfer rhegi ac fe ddefnyddir ‘Escob Dafydd’ yn yr un modd.

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words by: ASHLEY BOYLE design by: YEON SU CHO It’s that time of year again! And whilst everyone loves giving and receiving presents at Christmas, an integral part of the festivities is the Christmas dinner. One of the biggest stepping stones faced by students when leaving home and studying at university is learning how to cook for yourself, and so it’s no shock that several students brave the challenge of the Christmas roast each year. Quench Food looks at the best places to enjoy a festive feast as well as how best to cook your own turkey banquet.

The Taf - £12.50 From December 13th Traditional menu- examples include: Starter - Spiced parsnip soup, creamy garlic mushrooms Main - Turkey, gammon or rosemary with red onion sausages with all the trimmings Dessert - Christmas pudding, chocolate mousse In previous years, Mulled VK is also available (Black Cherry and Apple and Mango VK mixed with warm festive spices) Alternatively, the carvery is available throughout November and December on Sundays for £7.45 For a traditional experience: Toby Carvery – £14.29 14th November – 31st December

For an alternative experience: The Cosy Club - £28.95 21st November – 24th December A twist on the traditional roast- examples include: Starter - Mini hot smoked salmon fishcakes, pulled beef brisket Main – Confit duck leg, Norfolk turkey and smoked bacon pie, slow roast pork belly Dessert – Chocolate and cider toffee cheesecake, Pimms and strawberry trifle A vegan menu is also available: Starter - Truffled garlic mushrooms, roast spiced beetroot Main – Balsamic roasted beetroot and thyme tarte tatin Dessert­– Baked vanilla cheesecake with mulled spiced oranges

Classic carvery favourite, with added extras: Starter – King prawn and avocado cocktail, garlic mushrooms Main - Choice of beef, turkey, gammon and pork with all the trimmings (roast lamb also an option on Sundays) Dessert – Christmas pudding, medley of profiteroles, ginger sundae

Alternatively, there’s the vegan option of sweet potato and apricot chutney tart or a festive turkey burger.

It can be pretty stressful trying to organise and cook the perfect Christmas dinner. It’s especially daunting if you’ve never done it before, and have now decided to cook for all 12 members of your flat! This guide will hopefully help you plan, price and prepare the perfect student Christmas dinner.

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If you are going to buy fresh vegetables, be sure to buy them loose and only get what you need. Not only does this reduce waste (both plastic and food) but it’s usually cheaper. We fall into the habit of buying prepacked veg because it’s easier or even appears cheaper, when actually these bags of veg work out more expensive. Check the price per kg/lb rather than the final retail price as this is where you can get caught out. One of the best places to shop for loose veg is the Cardiff Market.

First of all, and this is really basic, you need to know how many to cook for. It’s pointless getting carried away to find out that you’re actually the only person interested. The second most important step is to decide what people will actually want to eat. As most student diets are now pretty diverse, it’s good to check whether someone has any specific dietary requirements or preferences as to not leave them out. For example, things like gravy and roast potatoes have meat juices or fats added to them for flavour and so it’s only fair to work out a vegetarian alternative.

The best part about cooking for lots of people is that it’s a fun social experience! That being said, the famous line ‘too many cooks’ does indeed apply when there are 8 people all trying to peel potatoes. So, the best way to avoid overworking or feeling left out of the loop is to come up with two teams – a cooking team and a cleaning team (this was pretty effective in my house of 10 in my second year).

Some of you may not have space to all work together in the kitchen, so taking it in turns to peel, chop, whisk and roast in the kitchen may be better suited to your house. Being able to sit down, relax and have some fresh faces take care of the washing up can also be a great relief from the frantic cooking.

This could be the last day you all sit down together before the Christmas break and January exams, so you may as well make the most of it! Don’t stress about timings and be sure to have a laugh when cooking. Plan a games night or watch a Christmas film together afterwards, just like you would on Christmas day at home.

Who cares if it’s only November! My flatmates and I organise Secret Santa gifts for the occasion, which is always great fun.

Personally, nothing beats home cooking. The thought and work that goes into preparing and cooking your own meal can make it that much more satisfying. Of course, the options available at restaurants can be more complicated and exotic, but the whole point of Christmas (dinnertime in particular) is to bring people together and that sense of togetherness is best-achieved cooking and eating at home with others.

It really depends on a lot. Frozen turkey and veg can be cheaper and more convenient but can take up a lot of space in the freezer and sometimes mean more preparation time is needed on the day. A turkey, for instance, will need to be completely defrosted before cooking. On the other hand, fresh veg and meat can speed up the process but perish quicker. Ultimately, though, it doesn’t affect the end product.

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Inside The Heads Of Cardiff Chefs words by: LAUREN STENNING design by: ESTHER LOI We at Quench wanted to get to know the amazingly talented chefs behind the delicious and instagrammable food we consume all around Cardiff and discover what they really think about the industry, given the current political food climate. Of course, if we spoke to them all, we’d take up the entire magazine, so here’s a representative selection to show our appreciation for the dedicated chefs on the Cardiff food scene:

Oliver Ling, Curado Bar

Olivia Bird, Pieminister

Simmie Vedi, Dusty Knuckle Pizza

Cardiff born and raised, Ollie, 36, has been in the industry for 15 years, working all over the South West from Plymouth to Cardiff. You can now find him back where he belongs on the bustling Guildhall Place, home to the Spanish tapas restaurant, Curado Bar. Order the tortilla and you’ll make him very happy as this is currently his favourite dish to cook!

You can find 20-year-old Olivia, a student in Drama Theatre here in Cardiff, backstage at the celebrated Pieminister ensuring the perfect pies are delivered to an expectant audience on the restaurant stage. Originally from Bryn Mawr, Olivia has an impressive four years-experience in professional kitchens, previously putting her culinary skills to good use in The Angel Hotel and the Art Shop and Chapel, both situated in Abergavenny. She’s found the move to Cardiff to be significantly busier, “especially when there’s something going on at the stadium!”, she tells me.

Having studied Law and Politics, pursuing a career as a chef for 27-year-old Simmie took her by surprise, working her way up from a pub KP position! “I fell in love with the pressure and organised chaos of a professional kitchen and never looked back”, she says after three years in the business. She also loves the great sense of community present in the Cardiff food industry, having previously worked in Got Beef and Bar 44.

The chef loves working here in Cardiff, telling me that “there’s a lot of small independents popping up in Cardiff and I like to see that” - a sign of a supportive culinary industry in the city - adding, “also the farmers’ markets are great”, showing his dedication to local produce.

Ollie has always been a massive foodie, and his career as a chef was largely influenced by his parents, who he says “were both really good home cooks”. This family feel is what the chef loves most about his job, thriving off a high-pressure atmosphere in a close-knit team: “there’s no better feeling than a busy Friday night”.

As another family inspired chef, Olivia is following in her brother’s footsteps, who is currently enjoying cheffing in France.

Far from French cuisine though, this young chef heartily backs the wholesome pies she cooks up for us here in Cardiff, saying, “everyone loves a good pie, and the presentation of ours is so good”. She adds, “they’re really satisfying to plate-up and I love all the great feedback I get. I also love seeing clean, empty plates being brought back to the kitchen”.

Aside from pies, Olivia enjoys putting together a mean toad-in-the-hole to share with her flatmates – lucky them! Her top tip for aspiring chefs is plain and simple: Work hard!

When asked about her favourite dish to cook, it was an easy answer: “definitely a good North Indian Goat Curry”, as she went on to explain how she watched and learned from her dad who was a big fan of goat! Teaching and learning are aspects of being a chef that Simmie thoroughly enjoys, and aspects that should be emphasised in relation to the environmental concerns surrounding mass food production.

The pizza chef ’s advice for aspiring chefs echoes that of Olivia Bird’s: Work hard. But Simmie further inspires by adding, “make yourself indispensable. Let your passion for food drive you, but don’t let yourself burn out”. Whilst sound advice incorporating self-care for motivated individuals within the industry, her words are also an apt metaphor to apply to the world’s awareness of food sourcing, consumption and wastage – we can still create and enjoy quality food without draining our resources and damaging our planet.

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I’m going to hold my hands up here and make a confession. I don’t really listen to music… like ever. Shocking, I know, as I’m aware most people accompany everyday tasks and activities with music and would feel at a great loss without it, especially our music editors (who now hate me). If you’re wondering what I do whilst I’m getting ready to go out-out, travelling on the train or whilst I’m cooking dinner, then have no fear, I don’t spend my life in a burning rage having had to listen to annoying commuters - I am listening to podcasts.

If you haven’t yet delved into the latest podcast trend, I will tell you now that you’re missing out! Do you ever get those days where you can’t find the right playlist to suit your mood? Try a podcast! Or, better still, try one of my top five podcasts for food lovers. Podcasts are really easy to access on your smartphone and also particularly great if you don’t have a television in your student accommodation - don’t worry first years, I’ve got your back with this one! And best of all, they’re completely

The Kitchen is on Fire The Kitchen is on Fire is brilliantly presented by Food writer James Ramsden and musician Sam Herlihy. This pair offer weekly episodes of easy-breezy listening with top quality industry-related guests. They approach all areas of the food industry, with every episode being masterfully unpredictable whilst throwing in a teaspoon of non-foodie chat for good measure. They know what they’re talking about and don’t hold back when they interview their guests, making it an easy one hour and thirty minutes to listen to.

Off Menu with James Acaster and Ed Gamble As this is hosted by two comedians, James Acaster and Ed Gamble, this one is inevitably really funny. Celebrities pick their ideal starter, main and dessert, a classic conversation starter that the hosts manage to make into a really successful and hilarious podcast, aided by the core ingredient of a loveable silliness that can be expected from this pair. It’s relatable and endearing hearing personal stories and with fantastic special guests such as Nish Kumar, Dara O’Brien and Aisling Bea, it has me laughing to myself along the street before remembering where I am.

Bon Appetit Foodcast This one is for the real food fans with lots of tips and advice from industry professionals from across America. Very different from listening back to your lectures but at times just as educational. They talk about everything from flavour combinations and cooking techniques to sourcing the best ingredients. Although this is about America’s food industry, hearing the fantastic interviews with top chefs and food writers that we might not be familiar with still makes for a really interesting listen, especially if you have done some travelling in America!

words by: EMILY STANTON design by: ESTHER LOI Desert Island Dishes This wonderful podcast takes inspiration from the popular BBC Radio 4 programme Desert Island Discs but with a foodie twist (obviously I much prefer this food themed version!). Desert Island Dishes is hosted by chef and food writer Margie Normura where she interviews special guests in the industry about the dishes that have shaped their lives. The 7 Desert Island Dishes perfectly guide the conversation to discover their favourite childhood meals, their go-to meals and what their final supper would be before they’re shipped off to the desert island.

Table Manners with Jessy Ware Super cool musician Jessy Ware tasks herself with cooking celebrities dinner at her home with the help of her lovely mum. This set up makes for a great listen and you always feel like you’ve got to know a different side to the celebrity guest. It’s fun finding out what they’re cooking each week and as always, the food theme gets the conversation flowing, creating an intimate setting for their guests to open up. This podcast boasts a whole range of celebrities, from Stacey Dooley to Cheryl and industry professionals such as Jay Rayner and Nigella Lawson.

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Eat and Drink your way around the

Christmas Markets The fabulous German-inspired Christmas markets have started to arrive on our doorsteps in the UK - exciting times are ahead! They always have a wide range of stalls, perfect for present buying and getting the scrooges into the festive mood. However, my favourite part would have to be the vast amount of delicious food and drink they have available for you to try, gearing us up for our Christmas day feasts.

Everyone loves a Christmas market and Cardiff ’s very own version will be open from the 14th November to the 23rd December so there's plenty of time to make ample trips to try the delicious food and drink that's on offer. Now there really is something for everyone, but I can’t let you miss out on these particular gems!

German Sausage Nuts Mulled Wine If you don’t fancy a sickly-sweet hot chocolate to warm you up this winter, then you can’t go wrong by opting for a 'Christmassy' mulled wine. Many markets boast an array of exciting variations, such as cherry and raspberry flavour, as well as the classic version of the warm spiced drink. What's more, in addition to the traditional mulled red wine, I've also seen some markets selling a mulled white wine.

If you don’t have an allergy, then make sure you visit a nut stall.

Cashews, peanuts, almonds and loads more covered in a sugary glaze are the perfect sweet snack. The toasty aroma from these stalls really gets me in the Christmas spirit as it envelops the market. They also offer plenty of additional flavours that are worth trying such as cinnamon, cocoa powder and even chilli! The little bags of nuts can also make perfect gifts.

Sticking with the meat theme, no British Christmas market is complete without a German sausage stand. The sausages are perfectly cooked on large griddles for all the market-goers to see as they walk past. They're great for an evening peruse around the market as they’re filling enough to constitute your dinner. Being very different from British sausages, many markets offer a range of different types which all have a unique flavour - a definite must on your Christmas market travels.

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Baileys Hot Chocolate

Pork, stuffing and apple sauce roll

There's no better sign that Christmas is on its way than the sweet taste of a Baileys hot chocolate. After saying no to two sugars in your coffee all year, it’s the perfect time to treat yourself with a sickly-sweet drink like this one.

Caressing a delicious warm drink between your gloved hands whilst you wander around the other market stalls really captures the essence of an all-encompassing Christmas market.

What better combination to do it with than creamy baileys added to a luscious hot chocolate.

It sounds like a lot is going on here but this classic combination fits perfectly into a nice crusty roll and you'll never leave one of these unfinished.

There's always a generous amount of filling and the pork consistently tastes amazing, so you always feel as if it's money well spent with this savoury snack. The strong smell of perfectly cooked meat wafts around the market and is the perfect stomach-filler to walk around with whilst you browse the rest of the stalls and tick off your Christmas shopping list.

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Welsh Cakes

Cheese There are always plenty of stands boasting an array of delicious cheeses for you to sample, from your classic mature cheddar and red Leicester to more unusual combinations of Cheddar and ginger or whisky.

They make the perfect additions to anyone’s Christmas cheese board and I can’t help but buy a block of smoked cheddar every year. The cheese stalls at many markets are often locally produced as well, a nice touch when looking for unique gifts or catering ideas, as well as providing the opportunity to support local businesses.

Crêpes Crêpe stalls are absolute classics and I'm incapable of walking by them without sampling the goods. In Cardiff in particular, we have plenty of places you can dine in and eat one decorated in plenty of chocolate but there’s something more festively satisfying about walking around the Christmas markets with a crêpe that’s been made fresh in front of your eyes. My favourite flavour has to be Nutella but sometimes the simple combination of lemon and sugar is enough to satisfy my sweet tooth.

Obviously, being in Cardiff, the Welsh cakes make an ever-welcome appearance even at Christmas time.

Locally made Welsh cakes are always brilliant and the packaging they come in means that they can easily be used as a Christmas gift if you can resist demolishing the packet yourself.

I really hope you get to visit a Christmas market this winter and try some of my favourite food and drinks!

There are plenty of truly magical ones in cities all over the UK and of course, the Cardiff Christmas market has so much to offer. It's also a great opportunity to support small and local businesses at the time of year that we're all stretching the pennies.

words by: EMILY STANTON design by: URSZULA RODAKOWSKA

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Kin + Ilk words and photography by: LUISA DE LA CONCHA MONTES design by: ELAINE TANG

Cold months are coming, which means that the idea of treating ourselves to a nice cup of tea, coffee or cake is very tempting. Quench Magazine was invited to visit the brand new independent coffee shop, Kin + Ilk, and we concluded that they might be one of the best options around to satisfy our winter cravings.

Not only they have four convenient locations around Cardiff: St. David’s, Pontcanna and Capital Centre, but their prices are affordable (£3 for an latte, and £2.7 for a tea!), making it a great option for students.

However, the thing that convinced us was their ethical approach to coffee-making: All of their coffee is sourced from Finca El Corozo, which is a farm situated in the slopes of Ilamatepec, in El Salvador. Kin + Ilk keep a personal relationship with the owner of the farm, Fernando, and they pride themselves on their direct trade approach; which means that even when the market price is low, they still pay high, creating a sustainable partnership that gives back to the local community.

This also means that the coffee they bring from El Salvador has a unique taste, as it is honey processed, leaving delicious tasting notes of pecan, red apple and milk chocolate on the tongue. Additionally, all of their packaging is compostable!

We have emphasised the importance of having a sustainable christmas in this issue, and we decided to dedicate our food photoshoot to Kin and Ilk, as we believe that supporting independent places like this can help us become more responsible consumers, whilst building a sense of community. So next time you want to work, chill, or catch up with a friend in a coffee shop, maybe you should head to Kin + Ilk!

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Instagram:

@kinandilk St David’s store opening hours: Weekdays: 9.30AM - 8.00PM Saturdays: 9.30AM - 7.00PM Sundays: 11.00AM - 5.00PM

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design by: YEON SU CHO

Dresden words by: SARAH BELGER

Dating back to the 13th century, German Christmas markets are now a tradition which can be found all over the Western world, with their influence reaching almost every UK major city. The German capital of Berlin alone is home to up to 100 individual Christmas markets every year, demonstrating that they really are an essential feature of the festive season. However, if you’re looking for some that are a bit more traditional, or perhaps you’ve already been to Berlin, there are plenty more across the world which are well worth a visit.

Often cited as the oldest Christmas market in the world, Dresden in December is like a real Christmas fairy tale. The Striezelmarkt in particular focuses on a different local tradition each weekend, meaning there’s always something new and exciting regardless of when in the Christmas period you get the chance to visit. The word ‘Striezel’ itself refers to the German cake ‘Stollen’ so there really is no better place to try out this traditional German Christmas treat! The city is also home to numerous other markets, with hundreds of stalls ranging from hand-crafted decorations to some of the most luxurious hot chocolate in Germany (probably) to help warm you up thanks to the chilly December average of 2°.

From Dresden it’s also easy to go out and explore other German cities, such as the historic centre of Leipzig. Although slightly smaller than Dresden, their Christmas market spreads out all across the city, making it equally as magical and providing a brilliant opportunity to visit a beautiful historic city that might not have otherwise made it on to your travel wish-list. You’ll find live music every day of the week as well as a traditional medieval-style market where you can sample the kinds of pastries or Glühwein that you’d be less likely to find in the likes of Manchester or Birmingham. As soon as you leave the train station and start heading down the narrow cobbled streets

you’ll be struggling to resist the temptation to dig in to the first thing you see but I personally recommend holding out until you reach the main square and find the stall selling loaded garlic bread. Yes. You read that right. Maybe not the most traditional or ‘Christmassy’ thing you’d be able to find, but certainly not something to be missed.

And if those two aren’t enough, heading to the quainter city of Quedlinburg in the Harz mountains will surely fulfil all of your winter wonderland dreams as you stroll through streets lined with half-timbered houses and seemingly more twinkle lights than stars in the sky. If you’re lucky and visit while there’s snow, taking a train through the mountains will make you feel as though you’ve walked straight onto the Polar Express.

It’s easy to see why so many British cities are trying to recreate this typical German experience. In short, you could visit any German city in December and find a Christmas market easily worth bragging to your friends about. However it’s certainly worth taking the time to also look into those which you might not hear about so often.

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Gamla Stan words by: ASHER KAY COX

If you happen to be in Stockholm at Christmas, or Jul, as they call it there, your first port of call should be the Christmas markets in Gamla Stan. Gamla Stan, quite literally meaning Old Town, is the historic district of Stockholm, a preserved medieval area filled with cobblestoned streets and, in the centre, a marketplace ideal for Christmas shopping. In the cold winter snow the market looks like something out of a fairytale. Redwood log cabins sit, billowing smoke in rows in the square, and from them you can buy Christmas gifts for your loved ones and delicious food. Ideal presents include the traditional Swedish gingerbread - pepparkaka - hand-knitted woollen hats and scarves, traditional Swedish sausages, and handmade crafts. Don’t forget to buy yourself glögg, Swedish mulled wine, to keep you warm as you wander through this bitterly cold but beautiful Christmas market.

If you’re willing to spend a bit more money, you can also find Christmas markets in Skansen, Stockholm’s open-air history museum and zoo, the inspiration for Wales’ own St. Fagans. Skansen was first opened in 1891 and aimed to showcase how people in Sweden lived prior to the Industrial revolution. The museum itself holds a replica of a pre-industrial town, with various crafts people who will demonstrate traditional Swedish craftwork. This includes a baker, who around Christmas will be baking traditional Christmas bread, or leather workers and glass-blowers. Every Christmas season since 1901, Skansen has hosted its own Christmas market in the centre square. Traditional live music is played, and guests are welcome to dance at the Christmas tree. You can even make your own decorations with help from craftspeople. Similar to the Gamla Stan market, in Skansen there is a mix of food and craftworks, with additions like spices, homemade mustard, local honey, and traditional embroidery. One perfect present might be a Swedish Tomte. A folk figure in many Nordic countries, the tomten are small creatures that look almost like a garden gnome, with a long beard and a tall pointed red cap. Tomte and a Yule Goat are said to go from door to door at Christmastime, handing out presents to families. At Skansen Christmas market you’re sure to find a perfect Tomte, made by a native Swedish artist. Treating them well can be said to bring you good luck and fortune! If you like, you can also add in a woven straw Yule Goat, just to make sure the Tomten don’t forget your house!

Gamla Stan Christmas market is open from the 23rd of November until the 23rd of December, and is open every day between 11 AM until 6 PM. Admission is free. The Christmas market at Skansen operates weekends only from November 30th until December 22nd, and is open from 10 AM until 4 PM. Admission is 170 krona for adults, and 150 for students, (around £15 and £12). Make sure to head into Stockholm early, as in December the sun can often set before 4 PM! No matter where you end up, you’re certain to have an amazing time wandering these beautiful Swedish markets, trying out local delicacies, and finding the perfect present.

38 - TRAVEL issue 175

The

Happiest Countries

By Sarah Belger

Holland

Living in neither the richest nor the sunniest country in the world, the Dutch are surprisingly no strangers to the list of the world’s happiest countries. According to recent studies, the key is ignorance.

Going through life relatively unaware of how people from different backgrounds to their own live, even within their own country, be that for better or for worse, means that the Dutch spend more time thinking about what they do have and appreciating that. Teenagers in the Netherlands are specifically ranked among the happiest in the world, particularly compared to those in Britain, with the reasons mostly revolving around their school life. Positive relationships with their teachers as well as a well-structured academic programme means that pupils graduate with results that they feel like they have genuinely earned, as well as supportive groups of friends due to the lower-than-average recorded accounts of bullying.

Most surveys however come back to the idea of freedom in the Netherlands. Weed is semi-legal, prostitution is regulated and Holland is often cited as one of the most LGBTQ+ friendly countries in the world. The Dutch live according to their own ideas and beliefs, without fear of being judged by those surrounding them.

in the World

By Niamh Sullivan

Denmark

Denmark being recognised as one of the happiest countries in the world is likely due to its concept of ‘hygge’. The Danish word, pronounced hoo-ga, defines the feeling of contentment, and can be applied to all aspects of life. Hygge can directly improve a person’s mental health and Denmark has recognised the importance of self-acceptance in today’s critical society. The Danes prioritise a simple lifestyle through making conscious decisions, such as achieving a home and work-life balance to reduce stress and anxiety, which has visibly led to Danish citizens becoming happier.

Whereas British culture continues to glamorise working long hours, Denmark has acknowledged the futility of a successful career at the expense of your happiness. Social media allows people to idealise their own lives, however contentment will come through the pursuit of hygge, and not a digital façade.

issue 175

By Indi Scott-Whitehouse

TRAVEL - 39

Iceland

A location that can only be described as the most serene and cheerful place. Iceland’s natural beauty remains undisturbed –its geo-thermal springs, and geysers; the summer’s lush greenery, and its winter’s thick snow helps you understand why Iceland was used as a shooting location for Game of Thrones.

Who wouldn’t feel happy with those gorgeous views on their doorstep? The drastic difference in seasons and daylight appears to leave Icelanders unfazed and resilient. The ‘midnight sun’ and Aurora Borealis are just two of the unique novelties that never wear off for the locals. The cold temperatures and rain are accommodated to by the vast selection of cafés and restaurants ready to welcome you in with a warm bread bowl of goulash soup.

Iceland’s small size also contributes to a strong sense of welcoming community, inspiring visitors and locals to live by the attitude that “everything will work out”, or as our Icelandic tour guide kept saying on the bumpy drive through the countryside: “Þetta Reddast!” From this positive attitude to its striking beauty, Iceland really is a fairy-tale come true.

By Tammy-Louise Wilkins

Finland

By Holly McElroy What makes Finland the happiest place in the world is a product of the environment and the people. Forests cover 75% of the country, and support the traditional concept of ‘everyman’s right’; a belief that all people should have access to the natural environment.

Therefore, Finns can bike, hike and camp through nature in all directions. A high national tax rate is used to provide a strong societal safety net including good education and healthcare.

Physical well-being is very important to the Finnish. Every year in Helsinki, thousands of people participate in the Tough Viking obstacle course consisting of water, mud, and monkey bars. This and other common past times such as swimming and sailing promote a sense of achievement as well as health benefits.

There are 3 million saunas in Finland, more than half the total population of people, which are used to promote a community without status or societal standing due to the stripping away of clothes. As a result of their strong society, Finland is not only the happiest but also one of the most progressive countries. In fact, it is the the only country in the developed world where fathers spend more time with school-aged children than mothers, an example of their success in reducing the gender pay gap.

Norway

The stereotypical impression of Norway is a country inhabited by despondent individuals with seasonal affective disorder (SADs), naturally spawned from the arctic weather that we know the country best for. Yet, as the nation enters its sixth year as one of the happiest on the planet, it is time this preconception of Norway is remedied.

I am continually discovering the content union the citizens of this country reside in as I partake in the Erasmus+ Programme this semester. Initial realisations were that the people are welcoming, water is soft, the air is unpolluted, the surrounding nature is protected, and all of this is relished under the principle of koselig. Norwegians believe in nurturing well-being and their persistent equity in all societal structures supports this, but it is the emphasis upon nature as a medical prescription that appears to be the key to happiness.

Under the The Allemannsrett Law, Norway licenses travel anywhere, permitted it is safe, which thus leads to many Norwegians possessing the liberty to explore. This freedom, as I have observed, has progressed to less reliance on technology and more physical interaction. When nature is accessible, air is clean, and phones are off; happiness ensues.

design by: DANNY BROWN

40 - TRAVEL issue 175

words by: MARTHA CONNON - COLE design by: ALESSIO PHILIP GRAIN

The Ethics of Travel is, without a doubt, one of the most rewarding and inspiring things a person can do. I mean, who doesn’t want to explore the planet we call home? Adventure opens the mind to such a variety of different cultures, ethnicities, cuisines, environments, and more. The benefits of travel are truly never-ending. Without utilising the opportunity to travel we might as well still be living in the 19th century, right?

Nevertheless, travel is unavoidably accompanied by a whole host of problems, the most obvious including environmental damage, pollution, habitat disruption and overcrowding among many others. Whilst efforts can be made to remedy or at least reduce the intensity of these issues, problems associated with the morality of adventure are far more controversial. Problems can arise from volunteering projects in third-world countries, ‘poverty tourism’ in Africa, and the mistreatment of animals in South-East Asia to name a few. The pressing question is whether the organisations behind such activities are acting for the right reasons, or whether they are operating purely for their own economic gain.

The ethics of adventure is rightly called into question when it comes to poverty tourism. Having been on a ‘township tour’ to Soweto in South Africa - also called ‘pity tours’, ‘ghetto tours’ and even ‘poorism’ (shocking, I know) - I can see how such tours bring both positives and negatives. Initially, I hated every second of the tour, feeling as though we were exploiting those who lived there. Many people have gone as far to say that township tours are in fact bordering on voyeurism, or even that they romanticise or depoliticise poverty. The only way to explain how I felt is to liken it to a trip to the zoo, staring from the outside but not daring to get too close. There was little meaningful interaction with the locals; I wanted to hear their stories, but we simply weren’t allowed. I can only imagine how degrading it must have felt for them, to have us watch them go about their everyday business.

The only redeeming aspect of the tour was the fact that the money we paid was reinvested directly back into the community, in turn helping to improve conditions and amenities for the locals. We were even given the opportunity to sing for the children in the local school, as well as lending a helping hand with the younger children in the nursery. Our tour guide, Thato, was undeniably the best part of the tour; his enthusiasm and energy was so inspiring, entirely dedicated to helping the people of Soweto. His gratitude for our visit and the money we donated meant that, despite my initial reservations, the tour was utterly worth it.

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TRAVEL - 41

Adventure Sadly, not all organisations are so beneficial. Many supposedly non-profit organisations actually donate very little to the local communities they advertise to support. The status of the organisation is no guarantee of responsible practice, with many companies having little or no ‘trickle-down’ effect and the vaunted ‘benefits to the community’ never materialising.

This is, however, not true of all companies. A much appraised example of this is the organisation Think Pacific, who operate paid volunteering programmes to Fiji every summer and work in close partnership with universities across the country. They pride themselves in reinvesting the majority of the money they receive from volunteers back to the local community.

This is valuable in a number of ways; most impressively, they provide school resources for over 20,000 children annually, have initiated the UNICEF Just Play Programme, and also conduct WASH (water, sanitation and hygiene) surveys in rural areas, all of which are life-changing achievements for Fijian children.

These successes fill volunteers with a real sense of achievement, as their time and money really does make a difference.

This clearly highlights how adventure, when conducted ethically, can bring benefits to both the indigenous people and the volunteers themselves.

Opportunities to volunteer can encompass a diverse variety of activities, ranging from teaching children in third world countries to nursing endangered species. Volunteering with animals is a topic truly close to my heart, and I was lucky enough to volunteer at the Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai, Thailand last year. Living amongst eighty previously abused elephants from the riding, logging and circus industries was the most eye-opening experience that I will never forget - I even got a cliché tattoo so believe me when I say this!

There are still a countless number of so-called ‘sanctuaries’ that mistreat their elephants. Many continue to offer elephant riding to tourists; whilst this may seem appealing, this actually causes the elephant a huge amount of pain and a great deal of emotional stress. To ride an elephant, there must be an element of fear involved. In order to ensure their obedience, infant elephants are subjected to a brutal process known as ‘crushing the spirit’ in which they are restrained, beaten and starved for weeks.

Sadly, this is only the tip of the iceberg. To limit such

photo by Alessio Philip Gr ain

abuse in the future, it is essential that tourists are educated appropriately and research projects sufficiently beforehand. Real sanctuaries allow their elephants to live as naturally as possible, limiting contact time with tourists and prohibiting activities such as elephant riding, dancing, painting or washing. The sad reality, however, is that these conditions still exist in countless ‘sanctuaries’ across the world, and only we have the power to change that.

The ethics of adventure is therefore wholly dependent upon us. Travel has undeniable benefits, but it is important for us not to lose sight of the problems it also creates. For travel to continue to bring benefits in the future, the ethics of adventure must be closely reviewed. We must ensure that volunteering projects are respectful and beneficial to both the volunteers, and more importantly, to the local communities. Ultimately, we must strive to eradicate, and not perpetuate, any unethical practice for adventure to continue to be a successful and rewarding initiative.

42 - MUSIC issue 175

HIATUS? Do bands ever completely quit anymore?

words by: ALEX PAYNE design by: ELAINE TANG When a band comes out and says something like “we have come to the conclusion that we will take an indefinite hiatus”, you have to sit back and ask a few questions. Firstly, what in God’s name does that mean? Surely a ‘hiatus’, by definition, can’t actually be indefinite in the first place. But more importantly, is this better or worse than just saying “we’ve broken up”? Does it provide the fans with the bottom line to the issue?

The idea of being on a ‘hiatus’ implies that they haven’t really split up for good and will be back in some capacity later down the line. This current trend towards this sort of statement is doing away with the long, tedious “will they, won’t they” thing, and cutting straight to the fact that the band will be back later, don’t worry. You could see it as a sedative to the worries of an upset fan to keep their hopes high. In every heartfelt message to the fans announcing that they’re going on a hiatus, there is an underlying admission that they are writing up the poster for the reunion tour already.

However, it is very easy to see this rather cynically, and rather ask the question: are they doing it for themselves? Is this a term used by groups that have grown to hate the music industry life, but have chosen to keep the fans on the hook so they can profit from them if/ when they need the money? Or that a certain band’s popularity has waned, so they’ll leave for a while and wait to pounce on a wave of nostalgia. The sort of nostalgia you see surrounding the recent Spice Girls stadium tour. I think it’s telling that the only Spice girl that didn’t agree to that venture (Victoria Beckham) is the only one who has ultra-high earnings and no need for the extra cash. It’s possible that the word ‘hiatus’ is actually music industry code for “until I need a retirement plan”.

But the question, “Do bands ever completely quit anymore?”, (to which the answer is, not really) comes with an equally important follow on question. Is it good for the music? If bands aren’t quitting they’ll inevitably be making more music so they can keep touring. But

is this music any good? Most of the time the answer to that is “it’s not bad, definitely sounds like the stuff they were making at their best, but it isn’t really as good”.

Think about some of the greatest bands ever that broke up and never re-joined. The Beatles, Oasis or The Doors. They all hung up their instruments and left it that way. And at least part of the reason these groups are still considered legends of Rock n’ Roll is they made music when they had something original to say about the times, and stopped saying it before it became cliché. Every band that has some success is there because they made something new that represented where music was at during that time. But if a band doesn’t quit and they keep making music that sounds the same years after they started doing it, it is no longer original and no longer represents the time.

On the other hand, there are occasions where if a band uses a hiatus correctly it can give some fresh perspective on the music. Take Arctic Monkey’s last album, they waited five years and then released something completely new and different from anything they had done before. Or take Bombay Bicycle Club. They officially went on an indefinite hiatus in 2016 that felt a lot like a breakup. However, the time away from music gave the members time to explore some new interests and learn something new about themselves. When they did that, they discovered they had been given a new wave of inspiration.

They are now releasing a new album and are playing the Motorpoint arena in January. If their lead single Eat, Sleep, Wake (Nothing But You) is anything to go by, it should be really good.

So overall, is a ‘hiatus’ a good thing or not?

In the end, I think it comes down to the music. If the break, and inevitable comeback allows space for better creativity there’s an argument to say it’s worth the weird semantic language. But if the music starts sounding samey and like a greatest hits CD, it’s hard to see a hiatus-comeback as anything but a money grab.

issue 175

Cancel culture seems to be the faceless punching bag of standup comedy this year, with both Bill Burr and Dave Chappell using their new Netflix specials as a platform to say things they shouldn’t say – almost as a protest. Nowhere has cancel culture been as prevalent as in music, and with that much backlash, should it be?

Has pop music simply become too politically correct; too liberal?

On the surface, it sure seems like it with a so-called resurgence of protest music. But why is this, and has anything really changed?

Firstly, let’s address the elephant in the room: music is a creative art form, created by people who believe in something strongly enough to dedicate their career to it, despite not being paid well for it. The mere concept of the ultra-wealthy musician is almost as new as it is rare, with the entire industry having been built on a working class bedrock, and generally populated by starving artists. Sure, there are exceptions, but with just 6% of the UK being defined as the elites, there will be far fewer affluent musicians who passionately defend the status quo than there are rebellious spirits fighting against the rigged system that keeps them poor; maybe that’s why pop music seems more liberal? That’s not to say that pop music lacks conservatives, far from it. Legendary figures in the genre such as Phil Collins, Elvis, Joy Division’s Ian Curtis, Morrissey and Frank Zappa all have achieved peak chart success while being public about their republican beliefs. Contemporary musicians have proven this too, with Kid Rock and Kanye West both reaching number one with bold conservative outlooks.

With an estimated 90% of pop songs focused on love, let’s not undermine how the genre reinforces the status quo –and thus supports a conservative ideology, not a progressive one. Sure, Taylor Swift might have made a single queer anthem, but how much of her discography is dedicated to traditional relationships,

MUSIC - 43

POLITICS AND MUSIC words by: CRAIG STRACHAN design by: ELAINE TANG

and subconsciously supports the Western establishment? Love isn’t exclusive to pop either, with it being rapped, screamed and crooned about in almost every genre under the sun! So how come certain genres are more overt in their liberal, or conservative, leanings than others? This disparity between genres comes from a plethora of factors, ranging from its origin, to the demographics of the average listeners. Country is most commonly cited as a stronghold of conservative views, but is it simply that the imagery that forms the bedrock of the genre appeals to rural Americans, who coincidentally happen to be more likely to be republican? A little easier to understand is popular rock music, with a lineage that stems from blues and was later influenced by punk. As a result, the genre is inseparably entangled with the idea of struggle and conflict against the system.

Finally, we can’t forget the fringe genres that exist to represent almost any political opinion in existence, no matter how extreme. From the benign, like protest music that ebbs and flows out of popularity to meet current demand, to the borderline reprehensible Nazi metal, soviet pop and White Power Music.

Like their audience, these genres are small and extreme, yet clearly show that all political leanings are represented at least somewhere in the vast and barren world of the music industry. Maybe the liberal niche is just experiencing it’s own time in the sun, to meet the demand of a generation that has experienced a re-emergence of class identity that hasn’t been seen for decades, thanks to a rise in austerity and financial collapses. Indeed, in all Western countries, politics has become more presidential, more personal and crucially, more polarizing. Even if the political leanings of pop listeners haven’t changed, maybe their appetite has, as they search for their personal soundtrack to this increasingly turbulent world.

It’s hard to know in the music industry which trends are reactionary, and which are molded manually by record labels, moguls and radio stations. But in all walks of life, there will always be people that have different views to yourself, and that’s a good thing, even in music. With a little bit of understanding, and with an open mind, we can learn to appreciate all music, no matter what political leaning it may have.

44 - MUSIC issue 175 AN INTERVIEW WITH

Ahead of the release of their newest album, Reworked, which sees a reinterpretation of songs from across their previous discography, we got to chat to the band about the new record alongside experiences from across their 25 year career.

Why don’t you start by telling us a bit about the upcoming Reworked album.

We’d been on tour and stuff and recording a fair amount of it backstage. It was kind of a project for us to do whilst we were away. When we initially recorded these songs the first time around, there were so many different versions; some started as electronic songs whereas some were more acoustic. It was nice to go back and play around with them.

Sounds a lot easier nowadays. So you’re bringing the album on tour, what can people expect to see at the shows?

Uhm.... we haven’t even rehearsed it yet! But we’re definitely going to have the brass, strings, quite a few other friends and other guests. It’ll be like the Albert Hall show, maybe with some more electronic stuff in there. We’re going to do the new versions of the songs from the new album, but not all of them.

In terms of sound, was this album a natural continuation from Wildness?

You put on a show in 2011 at the Albert Hall with the same title, was that where the idea first started?

Oh, it’s a completely different thing altogether; it’s a lot more minimal. I think our next album is going to be similar to what we did with Wildness. It’s going to be cool.

I think it started from having to do a particular version of a song for a film and they wanted it to be slightly different.

Then we started doing other songs and so on.

In terms of the 25 years that you’ve been going, did you have any vision of where the band might be when you first started?

On your website it says you recorded this album in over 100 different locations on the Wildness tour. Was this a different process to the other albums you’ve made?

I mean, we’ve always recorded in houses and stuff when we’re making albums. We’ve always just recorded like that.

I think the thing that was different about it was that it was done in so many bits and pieces. It’s like when you do a drawing when someone draws the body, then somebody else draws the legs, kinda like that.

I mean when the band started it was like a punk kind of thing; smashing guitars and all that. Gary was also just a teenager back then, so his ideas were probably very different. He probably wanted to be like Nirvana or something. I think the biggest change was when Run was a success in the U.K. in 2003. It was like a second chance as we’d been dropped from the record label previously.

Everything just got progressively better since then. Our show last summer at Ward Park with Bono coming on stage and 40,000 fans singing the words back to you - it’s nuts.

Ah I see. Is that why you’ve chosen to release bits of the album in EPs before its full release?

I mean with Chasing Cars as the most played song of the 21st century, you’ve certainly got a name for yourself.

Yeah! Because half of it wasn’t done! As soon as something was mixed and mastered it was just a case of getting it out there. But we did try and do it in a coherent way, so that each EP has a good mix of songs.

It’s crazy; probably a bit annoying for some people if you don’t like it. “Oh god, not that one again!”

It must have been pretty fun to go back and explore the older songs and rethink what you could have done with them.

It’s funny because your music taste changes over the years, as does technology. You wouldn’t have been able to have made half of these things we’ve done this time back in the day, especially the recording backstage thing. You would have needed the Rolling Stones’ truck back then, nowadays all you need is a laptop!

I think that just about wraps up our questions. It’s been a pleasure.

Thanks for talking to us.

Reworked is out now on CD and all major streaming sites.

The band can be found taking the Reworked tour across the U.K and Ireland until the 5th of December.

words and design by: JOSH ONG

issue 175

MUSIC - 45

words by: JOSH ONG design by: INSERT NAME HERE

Tobias Robertson is a 26-year-old singer-songwriter from Newport, South Wales, who self-describes his musical style as “soul-folk”. He recently released his debut five track EP, Moving On; a pensive reflection on his lost loves and personal struggles, punctuated by the infectiously cheery and catchy central track Time for You. One of Tobias’ biggest influences when he first started playing was Newton Faulkner, but he now feels more inspired by current greats such as Theo Katzman, Joey Dosik (both of Vulfpeck) and Jacob Collier.

Tobias first really got into music when he was fourteen, after borrowing his sister’s cheap Argos guitar and spending hours every day with it. Tobias says of this time, “I read lots of books and wrote lots of poetry as a kid, so I guess the natural progression after I’d been playing the guitar for a year or so was to start wanting to write songs.”, and in doing this he realised he had a natural talent for it. From the age of sixteen, he was already starting to regularly perform his own music at open mics in his local area, gigging sometimes multiple times a week, letting school take a backfoot. “I used to be falling asleep in class because I’d been out until 1:00 AM at a gig, with people ten years older than me”. Following on from this, instead of going to university, he went to college so he could continue making music without the pressure of taking on a degree.

When he was twenty-one, Tobias was talent spotted at an open mic by a representative from The Voice UK and agreed to appear on the show. He was paired with Boy George and survived for two rounds, but found that it was not for him and that the final product shown on television was a very false representation of what happened behind the scenes. The experience was demotivating, knocking his confidence, and it took a lot of effort to pull himself out of the post-show slump.

For years, Tobias has been doing cover gigs alongside solo gigs, a career move that allows him to make music for a living instead of working an office job to support his solo work. He always makes sure that the songs he covers are ones that he really loves, “because life is finite, you only have a certain number of songs in your life that you’ll ever sing” and integrates a few of his own songs into his sets because he hates the idea of living

words by: RHIANNON HUMPHRIES design by: JOSH ONG a “double life”.

Tobias’4 creative production has been prolific, with a catalogue of around 80 finished songs, a lifetime’s worth of music for some people. He explains this, in his words but with a sentiment many can relate to, “music was my first coping mechanism”.

This made choosing just five tracks for his EP somewhat of a challenge, but each song selected fits perfectly with the others.

Moving On has been a rebirth for Robertson, a closing of certain chapters but also an example of his growth as a musician. The album is self-produced and the cover is designed by him, featuring a photo taken by the artist. Although the songs fit together, they were written years apart and track different periods of Robertson’s life. Not only does each track symbolise a transformation in his life, but so does the cover art, depicting light breaking through trees.

The young South Walian is overdue a big break, but 2019 has been an important year for him. Not only with the release of the EP, but also as he toured with British soul icon Heather Small in April 2019, after the songstress spotted him when he did a set at the Stable in Cardiff. Furthermore, he has also set up Patient Heart records this year, a small personal venture set on recording the music of local musicians he knows and loves, with a strong focus on caring for the self-esteem and mental health of the artists involved (something that is sorely lacking in the wider music industry). He may not be a household name quite yet, but he is definitely one to watch.

PLEASE DEETE THESE BORDERS WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED DESIGNING

46 - MUSIC issue 175

words by: CHRIS COLBOURN design by: KATHERINE MALLETT & ELLIE HUTCHINGS With a limited scale of notes to draw on, and a limit to how you can combine them to provoke the right emotions, the commercial music industry will naturally produce songs that sound similar. It’s easy to imagine how a songwriter might play a few chords that fit the tone they want for their lyrics and end up with something that’s been done before, consciously or unconsciously.

Music, like any art form, progresses by iterating and improving on what came before. This is all well and good, but things get legally tricky if artists are accused of lifting part of a song to make their own record. Even though all creative work is covered by copyright, if somebody steals your work, this doesn’t really matter if you don’t have the resources to prove it in court.

In recent years, the Marvin Gaye estate has sought to do just that, winning a copyright infringement case last year against Robin Thicke and Pharrell Williams, and now setting its sights on Ed Sheeran. The Gaye estate’s argument, essentially, is that the songs in question are “substantially similar” to earlier songs

by Marvin Gaye, and therefore infringe his copyright.

If the allegations are true, and Sheeran did copy Let’s Get It On when he made Thinking Out Loud, it’s not necessarily a bad thing for the industry. Basing one song on another that came before is at best transformative and at worst unoriginal.

It doesn’t seem right to sue somebody for being an unoriginal songwriter, just as I would be uncomfortable with every sitcom writer in the world having to pay someone royalties for their use of the “will they, won’t they?” trope, or for somebody to claim they owned the Dutch angle or the dolly zoom. Some things are just so generic they fall into the public domain, like using “a Coke” to mean a cola.

Sampling from existing songs has been controversial since the practice began, but it can absolutely be used to make transformative works. Public Service Broadcasting have recently built their careers essentially on the back of samples of archival recordings, either by using them as instrumentation, or by scoring parts of speeches.

Problems crop up when you decide to make a transformative work using material that is in copyright without a license from its owner. Copyright law is clear that they are well within their rights to sue you, and it’s up to you to defend your use of their

property. To see how this might go in the music industry, we can look to YouTube as a case study. To cut down on litigation, YouTube developed an automated Content ID system that provides an easy way for copyright holders to identify videos that contain their work (music or scenes from movies for example) but it errs too much on the side of the claimant, automatically giving them all future ad revenue from flagged videos they decide to make a claim against. There is an appeal process, but it is very drawn out, and if a channel is flagged for copyright three times, it is disabled. Meanwhile there is nothing to prevent copyright holders, or even trolls unaffiliated with the content owner from claiming revenue from any and all videos that the system flags.

If you’re struggling to imagine the effect this has on creators, think of Turnitin’s oversensitive plagiarism detection system, but imagine you rely on your essays to make a living, and there’s no human oversight to tell it what’s a quote and what’s simply copied. Are you supposed to just stop quoting texts and criticism, and end up with a worse grade, or keep the material in and run the risk of getting kicked out of uni?

Video Essayists, Let’s Players, and film reviewers have come up with a tool designed to protect films from piracy, but this has also ended up presenting a real threat to criticism and parody, stifling creative work rather than promoting it. Where copyright laws end up preventing creativity, something has gone very wrong indeed.

The defence YouTubers tend to rely on when they fall foul of the content ID system is that it falls under the Fair Use defence: their commentary or criticism adds value to the content they’ve used, and so it is a transformative work, which they are within their rights to monetise. This defence is at its strongest when it is obvious that the transformative work does not diminish the demand for the original content. For instance, the Robot Chicken or Family Guy parodies don’t diminish demand for Star Wars. If anything, they’re more likely to make people go and watch the originals to get the jokes.

To paraphrase Judge Louis Stanton, presiding over the case back in January, we must ask ourselves whether the “somber, melancholic tones, addressing long-lasting romantic love” of Thinking Out Loud damage the market for Let’s Get It On –a ‘sexual anthem’.

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BOYS DON’T WEAR PINK, RIGHT? collaboration by: JOSH ONG & EMILY RICALTON design by: KATIE MAY HUXTABLE

MUSIC / FASHION COLLABORATION - 47

Music Contrary to popular understanding, toxic masculinity extends far beyond the perceived forced drinking and emotional repression (although those two do sadly go hand-in-hand). I, like almost every male, fell into the trap of placing value in this oddly entrenched set of principles. Men can’t listen to pop. Men can’t wear anything from the ‘girly’ colour palette. Men can’t talk about their feelings. The sadness of these comes less from their outdated, and frankly incorrect, sentiments, but rather from demoralising truth in their widespread belief. Back in the day of my angsty indie-filled teenage years, I would be the first to slam pop music for being mindless and throwaway garbage as a way of satisfying my inner elitism of the time.

Nowadays, I no longer give this overtly repressive mindset any weight and tend to generally just enjoy things more as a result.

Masculinity, over the years of institutional infiltration, has claimed many things along the way to be brandished as things that ‘men do’. Simultaneously, whilst declaring its chosen idealistic values, it subsequently found itself brandishing anything that fell outside of these standards as incorrect & morally reprehensible, it’s ended up repressing just about everyone, not just men. Furthermore, by aligning particular traits with sections of society, it has created a dangerous precedent of sweeping stereotypes that are simply false. Being a man in 2019 is far beyond the antiquated utopian masculine values, with life being some kind of raging testosterone-fuelled smash-andgrab, akin to some kind of irately manly round of Supermarket Sweep. In today’s world, being a man is just about whatever you make of it.

In terms of music, it certainly permeates alongside most personal lifestyle choices. When addressing something like the idea of guilty pleasures, you might be confused as to why this is a masculinity issue; it’s a lot more simple than it seems. Really, you shouldn’t ever feel any guilt in listening to music, regardless of artist or genre. Any choices in your music taste, no matter how out-of-character they may seem, are ultimately ineffectual to everyone else. Matters of gender, race, economic background, sexuality or otherwise, shouldn’t ever limit what you listen to. I, for one, hid my particular love for outrageous and extravagant pop music found in Katy Perry’s Teenage Dream for a long time out of fear of being shamed and ridiculed by my contemporary peers. To put it simply, even if you’re male with a music library comprised of Taylor Swift, Ariana Grande and Lizzo, it doesn’t make you any less of a man than someone whose playlists are filled with Drake, Kendrick Lamar and Aitch. This applies across the board, too; if you’re a woman who enjoys more traditionally masculine things, congratulations!

You’re still just as much of a woman as someone dressed head-to-toe in pink.

The deepest tragedy in all of this comes as a result of toxic masculinity’s constraint on the human character. By limiting the ability through which people can experience and emote via imaginary social barriers, it becomes difficult for people to truly express themselves. This is the biggest loss of all, and should be enough reason to put these archaic values to bed, once and for all.

In the ever-changing creativity of the fashion industry, there has always been one convention that has remained – the stereotypes of gender. And yes, even though we might see brands adding feminine prints to their designs, the advertising industries of fashion still tend to objectify women, idolising the power of men.

by Josh Ong

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Fashion Growing up with a love of fashion, I watched brands, like Diesel and Calvin Klein Jeans, become the necessity of every male and female’s wardrobes, and this definitely included my own parents’. Now, I love a good Calvin Klein t-shirt, but their advertising campaigns changed the authority of my own gender. This was not only with the respect that women received within the fashion industry, but it was also in the self-confidence that I had for myself as a young girl – I saw myself as a companion to the opposite gender, someone who was considered nameless throughout the modelling world. And this definitely isn’t something that any female should grow up thinking: that men are more important than themselves.

In some respect, I put this to blame for my lack of confidence nowadays.

As a girl, these advertising campaigns had forced me to see half-naked women being dominated by muscular men that are double the size of their underweight selves. Just walking through a shop I would be exposed to this type of ‘toxic masculinity’, one of which mediates that a woman’s body is owned by a man, and that their sexual appeal will secure success.

These brands were so popular as they played off of insecurity, selling features of beauty for women and power for men – attributes that both genders are stereotyped to.

Denim-based brands, like the ones mentioned above, all started with the movement of nineties culture – a time where Grunge, a popular American genre, used fashion to break the conventions of society. The popular Nirvana lead singer, Kurt Cobain, started this campaign against gender conventions, wearing floral dresses and maintaining his long luscious locks - a style that sounds rather similar to my own. However, unlike myself, being a girl and it being seen as acceptable to wear a dress, Cobain received excruciating backlash for his unusual yet original style. Cathy Horyn of the New York Times disagreed with his style (which baffles me, who has the right to ‘disagree’ with someone’s personal choices?), stating that Grunge blurred the boundaries of boys and girls, creating a confusion that lead to Grunge being an ‘anathema to fashion’.

Unlike Horyn, for Cobain, wearing a dress, or even the colour pink, meant freedom. As quoted by The Fader editor, Alex Frank, ‘Kurt Cobain was the antithesis of the macho American man’, a symbolic figure that made it cool to maintain this lumberjack aesthetic, breaking down the restrictions of gender conventions.

In more recent years, we have seen high fashion brands, such as Vivienne Westwood, start to introduce an increase in gender fluid clothing to their designs. Even Westwood herself, an icon of the punk movement, has created a unisex fashion line that has been designed to avoid discrimination against gender conformities. Even Gucci, a global fashion name, has started to incorporate floral and feminine designs into their work, making it acceptable for men to be in touch with their so-called ‘sensitive’ side.

by Emily Jade Ricalton

BOYS DON’T WEAR PINK, RIGHT? collaboration by: JOSH ONG & EMILY RICALTON design by: KATIE MAY HUXTABLE

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This winter season, grunge is having a renaissance; punky plaids, chunky knits and floor-length slips will be sliding off the runways and into the wardrobes of the fashion conscious.

During the A/W 2019 shows, designers paid homage to grunge, a trend which spilled into the fashion realm in the 90’s as a result of the emerging music genre of the same name. Having trickled into pop culture in the mid-1980s, this new wave of rock music surged into mainstream popularity in the 1990s, with bands such as Nirvana and Pearl Jam predominately feeding the flow. This new genre embraced dark and bleak themes; angsty teens could relate to the depressing yet introspective lyrics in albums such as Ten by Pearl Jam and Nevermind by Nirvana.

As this new progression of music gained further following, the line between music and society blurred; musicians started to become the conductors of a grunge subculture, with Kurt Cobain as chief orchestrator. Not only was he the frontman of an iconic leading grunge band, but he had now assumed the position of frontman of a new cultural movement. His unapologetic lyrics and his slouchy style (mainly consisting of baggy jeans, oversized cardigans and dirty converse) embodied the very essence of grunge. Soon, Cobain’s dishevelled flair was translated into the fashion scene, as the youth began to adopt his somewhat scruffy and undone style. Grunge was not only a new sub-genre of rock music, but also a new style of life which had transformed 1990s culture.

This new androgynous style combined chunky knits and boots with feminine frocks; a concept that mirrored Cobain’s ability to soften the harsh exterior of punk rockers by revealing their more vulnerable interior. Loose fitting knitwear, ripped jeans, plaid shirts and Dr. Marten boots became the epitome of a grunge ensemble. It was Marc Jacobs who became the first designer to bring this new trend to the luxury fashion table.

As the creative director of Perry Ellis at the time, he grasped the opportunity to showcase a new spring collection in 1993 that consisted entirely of grunge looks. Despite costing Jacobs his job at Perry Ellis, this was the collection that launched his fashion career into the success it is today.

Almost twenty years later, designers are still paying homage to the trend. Over the A/W 19 fashion weeks, brands such

as Michael Kors and Alexander Wang displayed their modernised take on the trend, showcasing checked jackets and cosy knits thrown over maxi dresses and skirts. Other brands have regenerated the previously loose-fitting looks, such as Christian Dior and Marni, who focused on presenting a more feminine and sharper silhouette on the runways, with cinched waists and tailored tartan. The once scruffy and unkempt looks are transforming into slightly more clean and softer designs. Could it be said that 90’s grunge is losing an element of its grit in its modern-day resurgence?

To keep up with this trend your student loan does not have to stretch to the pieces paraded down the catwalks. This season, high street shops from Zara to Urban Outfitters are offering a plethora of baggy knits and chunky biker boots to fuel your grunge addiction.

Considering that Cobain’s style was titled the ‘thrift store’ look, why not source some vintage pieces in local charity and vintage shops such as Sobey’s Vintage Clothing and Hobos Vintage located within the arcades of Cardiff city centre. ASOS marketplace can also offer some great grunge garments and be sure to check out the Urban Renewal section at Urban Outfitters. Whether it’s for a comfy and casual library get-up, or for a wardrobe revamp into an edgier aesthetic, this season everybody will be going grunge! words by: MILLIE SMITH design by: ORLAGH TURNER bottom image by: DAVE TOASTER VIA FLICKR top image by: JULIE KRAMER VIA WIKIPEDIA https://bit.ly/33cJwdk

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2019 Fashion The Death of Karl

By Lottie Ennis Karl Lagerfeld’s death caused a dramatic shift this year. This controversial fashion icon caused a mixture of positive and negative ripples in the fashion world following his death. A collection of white shirts were commissioned under his name with profits going to charity, some of the designers included celebrity friends such as Kate Moss and Cara Delavigne, showing how popular he was within the fashion world. However, it is difficult to ignore the allegations that Lagerfeld was fat-phobic. After his death, celebrity activist Jameela Jamil took to Twitter to criticise the celebration of Lagerfeld. As Jamil pointed out, Lagerfeld was a “fat-phobic misogynist” who repeatedly made comments which suggested that women should conform to an incredibly specific physical criteria. This raises the issue of how those who are repeatedly misogynistic can affect the beauty and fashion standards for women all over the world. What's more, in the current fashion climate where we are moving towards a more plussize friendly environment, Lagerfeld’s comments seem outdated and even alien. Lagerfeld’s death could potentially mark the end of an era which places the importance of a woman’s size and overall physical appearance above anything else.

Love Island: The Real Prize

By Omo Ifabua Whether you can name every couple that’s still together ‘on the outside’ or you think I’m talking about a holiday for newlyweds, believe me, Love Island is an integral part of every British summer. Since the show began in 2015, it has moved far beyond our TV screens and social media timelines.

From Love Island’s success sprung ironic business opportunities, including a six-figure clothing deal for people that spend seven weeks on TV in a bikini, so it’s normal to wonder why and how this is possible. Amber Rose-Gill, one half of this year’s winning couple, bagged a £1,000,000 fashion partnership with clothing brand MissPap and closely behind her, one of last year’s winners, Dani Dyer made £750,000 from a deal with In the Style. But, with 4.7 million people tuned in across the globe, it’s fair to say that rallying support is not a problem for the Islanders. The show is fuelled by physical attraction and perhaps fashion has the same motive – look good, get noticed, feel happy? And who best to learn from other than women who have won the ultimate beauty pageant? With that in mind, it wouldn’t be hard for a ‘total catch’ (with 3 million followers) to sell anything to the British youth... Use code MOLLY for 30% off air fresheners!

design by: Cynthia Vera

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and Beauty Gamechangers Sustainability in Cardiff By

Prateeksha

Pathak

The beauty industry witnessed a shift towards organic products and sustainable production. Here are a few emerging brands and zerowaste stores you need to look for when you decide to shop next: 1) Ripple, Cardiff: Head to the store on Albany Road to pick your favourite skincare products in reusable containers. You can carry your own boxes, fill them up with skincare and haircare products, and save the planet (and some money, you only pay for the amount of product you picked!).

2) Bee Good Skincare: An organic skincare brand, made by honey and beeswax gathered in sustainable ways. Head to the nearest beauty store and pick up your favourite lip balm.

3) Rose May the Handmade Gift Shop: A small family-run business that offers a choice of handmade products, including soaps, shampoos, serums and gift packs, made using traditional tools and techniques in Britain.

4) The Personal Barber: Gift yourself or your partner a goodie bag of shaving and haircare products, delivered right to your doorstep every month.

Bye Sister: Charles vs.

Westbrook

By Caitie Woolridge As one of the most turbulent dramas in the beauty industry this year, the feud between YouTubers James Charles and Tati Westbrook brought in several celebrities: the Kardashian/Jenners, Jeffree Star and Demi Lovato.

Charles not only lost celebrity support as many unfollowed him on social media, but he also lost close to 3 million of his YouTube subscribers within the first two days of the public fight. Westbrook made several allegations of inappropriate sexual behaviour based on Charles’ flirting with a 'straight waiter' in a tell-all video entitled Bye Sister, sparking the great unfollowing of James Charles and fans destroying his collaborative eyeshadow palettes with Morphe. However, underneath Westbrook's allegations, the feud was largely just an argument between two friends and fellow beauty vloggers.

Tati Westbrook lashed out at James Charles after he made a post in support of SugarBearHair, a competitor of Tati’s Halo Beauty in April of this year. This marked the beginning of the end of the two beauty vloggers' friendship, and in fact with Jeffree Star even tweeting of his own ending friendship with James branding him a “danger to society”. Since the feud, both Tati and James, as well as Jeffree, released statements claiming the issue to be over, yet a friendship seems impossible.

5) Tropic Skincare: From sourcing their ingredients in a sustainable way to freshly making the products, the brand has uncompromising standards of beauty, making them a popular award-winning brand of beauty and skincare.

design by: CYNTHIA VERA

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words by: LOIS BROOKS

& IZZY WACKETT

design by: ESTHER LOI

picture: @HAILEYBIEBER’S INSTAGRAM

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BY LOIS BROOKS Vogue Paris’ August collaboration with style conscious Hailey Bieber was not missed by any. With intentions to share Bieber’s love and admiration for the late Princess Diana, Vogue recreated some of the nation’s sweetheart’s most iconic outfits. Hailey Bieber honoured Lady Di on her own Instagram, noting the ‘style legacy’ that was once left, along with her take on her causal, but effortlessly cool outfits.

On the anniversary of her death, Vogue Paris released the cover to honour the twentytwo years since the nation’s Princess left us. Lady Di has always been famous as a fashion icon alongside her royalty, with her most famous outfits still being available for public viewing at Kensington Palace. Bieber’s collaboration has reignited the love and respect whilst noting similar current fashion trends like cycling shorts and slogan jumpers; it’s evident how Diana is still a style icon to many. It’s without mention how Diana’s fashion changed the royal rules of dressing and introduced female empowerment in a whole different light. Her own love for fashion was reciprocated in her clothes and adored by many. Often being described as ‘comfortable-chic’, Diana’s trend-setting pieces are frequently sold and copied to keep her legacy alive. In an ode to educating the younger generation of how influential Diana once was, Vogue Paris chose to use a young icon to replicate the looks and loves of Lady Di. The chosen pieces that Vogue and Bieber decided to recreate include baseball caps, loose fitting jeans, and a blazer, all three of which are on trend today. By Vogue commissioning this article, they are emphasising the cycle of how fashion trends appear just a few years later. Their depiction of Bieber was similar to the original shots of Diana, with her naturally posing and being adored by the camera.

With the Princess’s famously compassionate nature and desire to do good by anyone, Vogue’s choice to continue her legacy has not gone without notice. Both Prince William and Harry have no secret in sharing their love for their late mother, with this being another charming tribute. Hailey Bieber’s contribution in keeping Diana’s legacy alive presents the impact she had on the public’s lives, especially due to Bieber being born just eight months prior to the accident. A forever role model is how Vogue and Bieber present the Princess with many still in awe of her gracious presence.

BY IZZY WACKETT However, not everyone was impressed with the shoot Hailey Bieber did.

Many trolls have been taking to Instagram, leaving comments to share their disapproval with the shoot. These comments included: “Princess Diana doesn’t deserve this”. Perhaps, this was because Diana was such an iconic figure in the British fashion industry, breaking several stereotypes and gaining worldwide recognition in her wardrobe style.

Furthermore, some people believe that the original photographs of Diana were invasive into her private life at the time, and so imitating these once again was actually offensive and in retrospect distasteful towards the ‘Princess of the Nation’.

Along with this, the collaborative photo shoot between Vogue and Hailey Bieber was released during the 22nd Anniversary of Princess Diana’s death. This caused further controversy within the public as the press and media were focusing on Bieber’s shoot instead of laying down respect to Princess Diana, the global fashion icon of the 20th Century.

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winter

photography by: CHARLIE TROULAN design by: LUISA DE LA CONCHA MONTES models: COURTNEY MOODY AND MERRYN RODWELL

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GRUNGE

FASHION SHOOT

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58 - FILM & TV issue 175

Kaiya Simon on Boyhood An obscure but fair choice, Boyhood is the 2014 coming-of-age drama directed and written by Richard Linklater.

It depicts the childhood and adolescence of Mason Evans Jr. from 6 to 18, growing up in Texas with divorced parents. With the main goal being to make a film about growing up, production took 12 years. For this reason I believe it’s an iconic film of the decade as it came together as the years went by, with Linklater developing the script throughout after re-watching footage they’d already filmed. He could see changes in the actors that he would incorporate and would let them participate in the writing process, speaking from personal experiences.

The fact that the film was made this way allows it to be raw, real, and natural - receiving universal acclaim from critics for its performances, emotional depth, and originality. The film won over 100 awards and was nominated for even more. I think this is due to its believability, along with the strong, talented cast that helped bring this realistic tale of growing up to life.

Ella Clucas on Whiplash Whilst the past decade has hosted several heartwarming romances, gripping thrillers, and conclusive chapters, nothing quite comes close to the intensity of Damien Chazelle’s musically driven Whiplash. The film, which premiered at Sundance Film Festival, keeps its audience poised in desperate hope for drumming prodigy Andrew Neiman as he tries his best (and tries again) to impress his brutal, foul-mouthed music teacher. Neiman, played here by Miles Teller, is subjected to heavy pressure and relentless abuse from jazz conductor Terence Fletcher - a challenging role for which J. K. Simmons received an Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor. This is all in pursuit of his passion for drumming, which slowly descends into painful obsession, and self-destruction at the hands of Fletcher’s criticism. The film is truly unlike any other in the tension it not only creates, but maintains consistently throughout. Chazelle combines original writing with brilliant direction to create what can only be described as an emotionally turbulent masterpiece. Prepare to hold your breath between off-beats; Whiplash will keep you on the edge of your seat.

Rhiân Lock on Moonlight In 2016, Barry Jenkins’ Moonlight was the film on every movie buff ’s lips after the embarrassing envelope blunder at the Academy Awards saw it scoop the Best Picture award right out of La La Land’s hands. It was the first LGBT themed movie to win Best Picture, and it was a deserved win. Moonlight is a coming-of-age story like no other, following the life of Chiron, a young black boy struggling with his mother’s addiction, loss, and his sexuality. Jenkins has been praised for his protagonist’s gentle and vulnerable nature, challenging the thuggish stereotype of black men. Mahershala Ali also received critical acclaim for his role of a drug dealer who is a stand-in father-figure for Chiron. After his performance, Ali became the first black, Muslim man to win an Academy Award. Moonlight will move you, challenge your perceptions, and leave you in awe.

Amelia Field on Pride Pride is a hilarious, feel-good film that tells the story of the stark difference between the two very different groups of West Welsh miners and London Pride joining forces after the closure of mines under Margaret Thatcher. This film comes complete with a cracking cast including Bill Nighy and Imelda Staunton, and will make you cry with laughter as well as sadness. Showing the camaraderie of these two hard-done-by groups when there is such a difference between the two exposes the audience to some hilarious scenes which in some way mimic the differences found between Gen Z and Baby Boomer generations. Adding to the feel-good element of this film is the fact that it is a true story of alliance. I believe that this is one of the best films of the decade as it possesses every element of what makes brilliant cinema, and despite it being based on events from a few decades ago, it still resonates with a 21st century crowd. design by: URSZULA RODAKOWSKA

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Review: The Lighthouse “HARK!” It’s 5am. Because of a further lapse in time keeping – and causing a sleepless 4 hour Megabus journey – I had to leave Cardiff at 1am to see my first screening of London Film Festival's, The Lighthouse. But the screening begins at 8:30am and so I roam Leicester Square in the navy, frostbit morning until a coffee shop opens. The queues swell an hour beforehand with eager Londoners and critics alike, awaiting the follow up to Robert Eggers’ Satan-stirred debut, The Witch (they must be the “cult following” that it garnered). At 8am, the doors open, so I down my coffee and find a seat. 8:30 on the dot, the projector stutters to life, and black, choppy waters invade the screen - their break in harsh white contrast to the inky depths that, rocking against the 1.19: 1 frame (almost square), look as if they have been contained in a magnified glass bottle. So, body clock frayed, eyes pinned sorely open with caffeine and on the brink of dreams that I kept at bay, this is what I experienced that morning…

Pure, pure, pure. It seems that Robert Eggers did not direct his sophomore effort but unearthed and forged it from its volcanic origin - post eruption, still rumbling with hellish energy.

1890’s lighthouse keepers Robert Pattinson and Willem Dafoe haul the two-man (and one mermaid) act on an isolated slither of New England rock, their scratchy knitwear and dungarees no match for the wind and pounding rain. Dafoe disappears into his fisherman’s beard, channelling both Neptune and Birdseye in titanic silliness whilst Pattinson’s slow succumbing to insanity is visible through every furrow and drunken slur. It is a tour-deforce of macho muchness that feels like less of a performance and more like a boxing match to the salty tune of sea-shanty’s. Inspired by Weird Tales of maritime delusion and steeped in the Lovecraftian uncanny, The Lighthouse thrives on the uncertain solipsism of the mind. On this rock out of time, it is your word against your own and it is fuel-fucked on and balls-deep in its own crooked madness that fish-scaled and slapping coils round your damned, gulping gullet.

With 35mm film flickered through 1920-40s equipment, then orthochromatically filtered, the photography pops like the quilled ode of a madman on bone paper. You can keep your soft, pretty greyscale because this is fucking black and fucking white as astral forces, whipping round each other in combative orbit. This is black and white as Doré prophesied: in the day, black is drawn spit and charcoal into Eden light, at night, white is etched from nether.

The Lighthouse is base - forced angry and erect from tar, grit soil and dripping gloppy in strings from pitch clouds that carry perpetual storm on their shoulders. Like The Witch, The Lighthouse is less concerned with contemporary revision and more so with reproducing the consciousness of its own setting. But, unlike the former’s Pagan paranoia, here the lens of machines that still need to be pumped by oil and sweatslicked, starving arms focuses on the unholiness of the corporeal: fabled demons are purged in the processes of human excretion, secretion, bleeding.

The mind therefore is doomed by the body as the toils of labour inform seaborne hallucinations and passions of desire and guttural hatred spur an unstoppable insanity. Inexorably linked, the mind will be dragged from heaven back to its aching, doomed frame in unsanctioned matrimony.

Rhythmically, the editing also reflects this harsh synthesis. Each frame is slammed hot and cast iron in place of the last, forcibly merging the fringes of mind and body, body and machine, machine and belief.

The Lighthouse is resolutely singular in its hypnotic intensity and feels like an impossible aside to our current filmic canon, omnisciently observing the present epoch rather than participating. Because of its unwavering anachronisms and dark psychologies, it already feels like a classic. I was deliriously tired, but in that screening all I could think was that The Lighthouse is it. An all-timer, cinema stripped to skeletal myth and soul-rendered upon granite. But it did not earn its place.

Eggers' has cheated, pummelled and muscled his way into the history books. words by: CALEB CARTER design by: URSZULA RODAKOWSKA

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In 1977, a moderately unknown director released what he at the time called a “space opera”. That director was George Lucas and the film was Star Wars. Whilst it may not be labelled as the most critically successful trilogy, nor does the box office gross match up to the modern-day franchises, Star Wars is the definitive series of our time.

Whilst it is impossible to attempt to condense the history of this forty-year-old franchise into a mere thousand words, what follows will hopefully be a comprehensive history of a galaxy far, far away…

The Skywalker saga begins on the planet of Tatooine; a barren desert world upon which nothing much ever happens. A young Luke Skywalker purchases two recently captured droids; a transaction which brings him into the world of Jedi, Stormtroopers and galactic civil war. The premise of the original film is that the Galactic Empire has a giant space weapon christened the Death Star which can literally destroy entire planets. The leaders of the Rebel Alliance quickly realise that this is an issue and they dispatch agents to steal plans so a weakness within the station can be identified. Unfortunately, one of their leaders, Princess Leia (surname tbd.) is captured by Darth Vader before the plans can reach rebel HQ. The special effects of the film are simply phenomenal considering the time in which it was produced; a recurring theme for the franchise.

Three years later, both in the real and Star Wars universe, film two was released. The Empire Strikes Back is now regarded as one of the best films of all time. Funnily enough, contemporary reviews were middling; with The Washington Post famously criticising the “middle-of-the-story” plot. Empire introduces the audience to one of the most famous cinematic characters of all time in Yoda and paints the series in a somewhat darker light.

Unfortunately, it is during Empire that one of the more unfortunate episodes of Star Wars takes place. Romance blossoms between Luke and Princess Leia… this is only slightly problematic as events of the following film show Luke and Leia to be flesh-and-blood siblings. That’s right; thirty years before Jaime Lannister ever snuck into his sister’s bed, the title of “most famous cinematic incest” belonged to the Skywalker twins. For reasons that escape me, this isn’t really brought up in the sequels.

Empire is also somewhat a rarity in that the heroes are utterly squashed by the movie’s end. Han is encased in carbonite, the cast face a major betrayal and, most famously, Luke loses his hand but gains a father in perennial villain Darth Vader; with one of the most famous lines in film history.

And for once, the payoff is actually well handled. Return of the Jedi begins with Han being rescued from eternity encased in carbon, but quickly pivots into the Alliance’s last stand on the moon of Endor. They also quickly realise that Emperor Palpatine (the true big-bad) is building yet another Death Star.

In an extended battle sequence, the Alliance manage to hold off Imperial forces long enough to give Luke time to finally

words by: SAM TILLEY design by: ELAINE TANG

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confront his father and the Emperor. After watching his son being tortured by Palpatine, Darth Vader finally becomes good and rebels against his mentor, being fatally electrocuted in the process. The now- redeemed Anakin Skywalker is able to die peacefully in his son’s arms. And thus ends one of the most successful trilogies of all time.

The Force Awakens was a critical and commercial megahit.

Yes, the plot does borrow a fair bit from A New Hope: desert planet inhabitant gets drawn into a civil war, Rebels versus the First Order and the climax takes place on Death Star 3. But the nostalgia doesn’t cloud the fact that it remains a very good film.

Rey and Finn step ably into the roles previously occupied by Luke and Leia and the story leaves just enough intrigue to carry over to the next film without radically changing the franchise’s mythology.

After holding off on greenlighting a fourth film, both due to the stress of producing the first three and because of the lack of affordable CGI, Lucas was enticed into re-entertaining the prospect of a second trilogy after seeing first-hand the new technological advances displayed in films like Jurassic Park.

However, the advancements in technology meant that the earlier civilisations depicted in the newer films look far more technologically advanced than in the films set over thirty years later.

The Last Jedi, however, was not as universally acclaimed. Despite the obnoxious and clearly sexist undertones of some of the trolls who targeted the film for portraying women in positions of leadership, there are legitimate questions to be raised at the unveiling of certain plot points including the ‘reveal’ of Rey’s parents. The main crux of the film is the conflict between the good and bad sides of the Force and whether or not the two can be reconciled; a deeply philosophical theme for a series that presents itself as child-orientated.

The prequel trilogy begins 32 years before the events of A New Hope and they flesh out a lot of the mythos of the franchise; the origins of Darth Vader and Palpatine, the circumstances in which Luke and Leia are born and the transformation from Galactic Republic to Empire. By the end of Revenge of the Sith, the trilogy nicely ties back into the originals.

With the release of the ninth, and final, film of the Skywalker saga this December, a story that first began over forty years ago will finally come to an end. We can only dream to ever see a saga like it again.

Another decade, another trilogy. Although following the lukewarm (pun intended) reception of the sequels, the selling of Lucasfilm to media titan Disney and the fact that the main cast were around thirty years older than the last time they were on a Star Wars set, there was much trepidation amongst fans and critics alike. They needn’t have worried.

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Jane Bond: The Polarising Politics of women in Hollywood For the past 57 years, the James Bond franchise has stood as one of Hollywood’s most beloved; with an estimated worldwide gross of $7,077,929,291, it also stands as the fourth most profitable franchise in history. It is of little surprise that a profitable franchise with such an enduring presence in popular culture would be subjected to a great deal of public scrutiny.

Whilst widely receiving mixed reviews from critics, Spectre (2015) the previous instalment ushered in a resurgence of one of Hollywood’s biggest rumours: was Daniel Craig intending to leave the role?

There is little doubt that there has been consistency in the previous casting of 007: of the seven actors that have portrayed the character, all have been white males. In the age of the #MeToo campaign, the gendered inequality of Hollywood has been brought to the forefront of public discussion.

When Daniel Craig officially announced his retirement from his thirteenyear stint as 007 back at the Bond 25 press conference, much discussion was placed upon his successor. As of summer 2019, Lashana Lynch will reportedly play 007 in No Time to Die. 007 and James Bond are not mutually exclusive; author Ian Fleming’s novels indicate that the ‘00’ refers to transferable titles, rather than specific individuals: it is possible to have a 007 that is not James Bond. In a time when Hollywood has seemingly acknowledged its issues with a gendered bias, is it time for a Jane Bond?

In the name of diversifying Hollywood, both in front of and behind the cameras, organisations such as WIF (Women In Film) and GLAAD have recorded yearly statistics of minority individuals working within the industry. Last year, WIF (founded by the former editor-in-chief of The Hollywood Reporter, Tichi Wilkerson Kassel, back in 1973) collated the research collected by the University of Southern California within the parameters of the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative. This research initiative worked to assess equality in Hollywood between 2007 and 2018; the report looked at women involved in the top 1,200 films over this eleven year period, with a particular emphasis on the top 100 films of 2018. The report concluded that, of the top 100 films of 2018: • • •

Women led or co-led 40 films 11 of these leads/co-leads were women of colour 11 of these leads/co-leads were 45 years of age or older

Frankly, the fact that fewer than half of the top 100 films last year featured a woman as a lead or a co-lead, evidently shows the disproportionately masculine-orientated disposition of Hollywood. Furthermore, whilst assessing the top 1,200 over this eleven year period, the report also recorded that just 28% of these films had a female lead or co-lead. This is an astonishingly small percentage; just 40 films having a female lead or co-lead in 2018 screams a masculine bias within the industry. However, that is still double the number of female leads or co-leads back in 2007, where it was just 20 films.

Moreover, there is undoubtedly a racial bias within an already biased industry. The Center for the Study of Women in Television and Film published a further report on diversity, finding that in the top 100 films of

2018, 65% of all female characters were white, whilst just 21% were black women, 10% were Asian, 4% were Latina, and 1% of other race or ethnicity. The statistics here are quite clear: there are simply not enough female leads/co-leads in Hollywood, especially female leads from minority backgrounds.

Some may argue that the lack of women represented on the big screen directly correlates to a masculine-orientated movie-going audience. There is a perpetuated stereotype that women simply don’t show as much interest in watching action movies as men; quite frankly, this is not an opinion routed in fact. In 2018, the Motion Picture Association of America reported that women made up 51% of American moviegoers, and similarly 51% of online subscription holders. Whilst not by a huge margin, the MPAA report indicates that women make up over half of the viewing audience; therefore, surely women should be more equally represented on the big screen?

Rumours of a female incarnation of James Bond have surfaced for years, with big Hollywood names such as Cate Blanchett, famous for her fashionable choices in suits as well as her acting credentials, have been attached to the franchise; as far back as 2016 saw British actor Gillian Anderson express an interest in the role via a retweeting of a fan-made ‘Jane Bond’ poster on Twitter. For as long as these rumours have persisted, so has a visceral backlash to the idea of a female 007; albeit, this is not an issue exclusive to the 007 franchise. The 2016 female Ghostbusters reboot famously received an exceedingly polarised reception from both critics and moviegoers alike, with a large amount of criticism directed to the female cast seemingly ‘replacing’ a beloved classic.

On the other hand, however, stands Atomic Blonde (2017). Starring Charlize Theron as MI6 agent Lorraine Broughton, David Leitch’s spy thriller is a female led version of everything James Bond wants to be: Theron gives an astonishingly high-octane performance, performing physical stunts that impress even the most die-hard Bond fans. Leitch’s film removes any worry in the success of an action film surrounding a female spy: Leitch is not afraid to show Broughton bruised and bloodied, nor does he shy away from Broughton’s sexuality, who successfully seduces the French spy portrayed by Sofia Boutella. In theory, the cult popularity of Atomic Blonde plateaus any concerns over a female-led spy movie.

On Jane Bond, 007 producer Barbara Broccoli made an astute observation: ‘We have to make movies about women and women’s stories but we have to create female characters and not just for a gimmick turn a male character into a woman.’ Representing women’s stories is vital on screen, but we need more original stories rather than just adapting pre-established masculine characters from a bygone era.

We need a female 007, but not a ‘Jane Bond’.

words by: REBECCA FISHER JACKSON design by: LOTTIE ENNIS

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Epic Games Store: Monopoly Breaker or Hostage Taker?

Thanks to the enormous success of Fortnite and the licensing of their Unreal Engine, developer Epic Games has become one of the wealthiest studios on the market, and they’ve used that money to develop their own online storefront: the Epic Games Store. Though other storefronts exist, like Blizzard’s Battle.net and EA’s Origin, the PC market is dominated by Valve’s Steam platform. This is a monopoly that Epic claims it wants to break and make the industry a better place for everyone. Their methods, though, have proven controversial to say the least.

The main way Epic has promoted its platform is by paying developers to launch their games exclusively through Epic’s storefront. More well-known titles to take this offer include Metro Exodus, Tom Clancy’s The Division 2 and Borderlands 3. For gamers, this is the core of the problem. Many feel that these tactics are anti-consumer since they remove the freedom of choice to purchase games from their desired storefront.

This isn’t helped by the fact that the Epic Games Store itself is not the best online store, lacking several of the features that are now common on Steam. At launch, it didn’t even have an offline mode, making it inaccessible for people with poor Wi-Fi. While this has been fixed, it still lacks achievements, store reviews, several international currencies and even things as simple as a shopping cart. Epic has promised that these will come sometime in the future, but it doesn’t change the fact that the store lacks the features of its rival. This brings up a legitimate point: why should gamers have to use a lower quality launcher when they’d prefer to use a much better launcher that they are also familiar with? This forced exclusivity makes detractors feel that Epic is holding games hostage in order to get around the inferior quality of their store.

It doesn’t help that many game originals promised to release on Steam have since become Epic exclusive. A notable example of these is Shenmue 3, which started as a Kickstarter game that promised backers a Steam version. Worse yet, the developers initially stated that they would not give refunds to backers until Epic themselves stepped in to pay. Some may argue, however, that the Epic Games Store may actually be working to improve PC gaming. The deal that Epic gives to developers is very enticing. They promise a better revenue cut than Steam, with the company taking 12% of the profit from games on their platform as opposed to Steam’s 30%. With smaller indie companies they have also stated that they would pay them the total sum of expected profit of the game upfront meaning that even if the game sells badly, the developer would already have a guaranteed return. As Super Meat Boy Forever co-creator Tom Refenes states, for smaller indie studios with lower budgets, it’s a “total no-brainer” to take the Epic deal.

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Tim Sweeney, CEO of Epic Games

Epic CEO Tim Sweeney further states that everything Epic is doing is benevolent. Developers getting money upfront and more profit via lower revenue from being exclusive will, in theory, mean that they can pursue bigger projects with bigger budgets. Thus, it can be argued that the Epic Games Store is better for the consumer as well. Sweeney also states that this is the only way to break the monopoly that Steam has on the PC market, as the exclusives pressure Steam into lowering their cut and improving the store for developers as well. Sweeney has even gone as far to say that if Steam was to cut their share to match Epic’s, they would stop taking exclusives.

This brings us to the crux of this argument: is the Epic Game Store a monopoly breaker or hostage taker? In my opinion, neither. While the Epic Store isn’t great, the games on it aren’t being held hostage. It’s a free launcher that can be accessed with the click of a button. Most of the Epic exclusive games are also available on other consoles like PS4, Xbox One and Nintendo Switch. Furthermore, if being on Epic helps smaller developers, I don’t see this as a problem – it’s understandable that they would accept a deal that offers more security. After all, game development is hard and often unrewarding.

With that being said it’s obvious to me that Epic is not trying to be a monopoly breaker as much as they are a monopoly taker. Sweeney’s song and dance about how much Epic cares about the PC gaming industry come off as disingenuous virtue signalling. It’s hard to take the CEO’s talk about wanting to break a monopoly seriously when his company’s solution to doing so is to rapidly build their own monopoly in the most blatant and aggressive way possible. I can fully understand how Epic’s aggressive taking of third-party games can be seen as anti-consumer. They’re essentially throwing their money around to force people to their platform. A significant example of these tactics is with ‘Unfold Games’, the developer of indie game ‘DARQ’. They turned down Epic’s deal but still offered to put the game on The Epic Game Store alongside Steam, which Epic declined. It’s very clear that Epic’s priority is not to force Steam into change through competition but to expand its own game library to bring consumers to them whether they want it or not.

words by: ALEX DAUD BRIGGS design by: LOTTIE ENNIS

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iPhone owners can now apply for an Apple credit card in their phone's preinstalled Wallet app, on any iPhone running iOS 12.4 or later. To apply, users need only input their date of birth, income, and the last 4 digits of their social security number, all in the app.

This data then goes straight to the bank issuing the card, Goldman Sachs for approval, without passing through Apple's hands. All very painless and (you would hope) secure, without the need to call or even message the bank. Goldman Sachs states that "within a minute" your application will be approved or denied, and if you qualify, the Card will appear in your Apple Wallet alongside any other debit, credit and train pass cards you've set up in the contactless system Apple Pay. It sounds a little strange that a new Apple service requires you to send your personal information directly to a third party like this, but Apple is not a bank, and so it’s unable to issue credit

cards itself. In fact, it seems that at the back-end, the Card is run almost entirely by Goldman Sachs, whose customer service team will be providing support, rather than Apple's own. Though this has given some people concerns about their privacy, Apple say that their deal with Goldman Sachs forbids them from selling purchase data to advertisers or any other third party, and it will only be used to approve or decline purchases.

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Rather than trying to compete with premium credit cards that offer points that can be exchanged for access to airport lounges and the like, the Apple Card’s proposition is simple: a ‘low’ interest rate, and daily cashback on purchases made with the card, credited straight to your Apple pay account. By using their card, customers can get back

without passing through Apple servers. A neat additional trick is the Card’s integration with Apple Maps, allowing you to see where you made transanctions that seem unfamiliar to you.

3% on payments made via Apple storefronts, 2% using the card with Apple pay, and 1% for other online and in-person transactions. Once the money is credited to your Apple Pay account, it can go toward paying off the card’s balance, be transferred to friends, other accounts, or used in transactions.

card. The physical card itself is a very pretty thing, and if you happen to have access to an engraver, you can put any design you want on it, but it is an entirely optional part of the service. The physical card can be used where vendors will not accept Apple Pay, and instead of displaying it's card number, security code and expiry date, it is engraved only with the owner's name. Apple says it is designed to improve security, but it does have the fringe-benefit of looking very cool.

It seems like a skinnier set of rewards than you might expect from a luxury brand like Apple, but unlike premium cards, Apple does not charge for the service. There are no annual, late or international fees, just a 12.99-24.24% APR (annual percentage rate), based on the user’s credit rating. These are by no means “among the lowest rates in the industry”, as Apple stated when the Card was first teased in March.

Rather, Apple hopes that the Card will provide customers with the cheapest rate available to them, and be affordable to as many iPhone owners as possible. By not charging fees, and apparently never having access to users’ purchase data at all, Apple misses out on valuable revenue streams for credit card companies.

What else do you get for gambling with your money like this? Rolled out across the US in August, the Apple Card User Interface offers users a lot of the same benefits as the Monzo app: within the Wallet app, offers can see their transactions categorised by type (groceries, food and drink, entertainment), budget tracking, and forecasts of the interest that they will build up if they don't pay off their balance by the end of the month. All of this processing is done on the phone,

What Monzo doesn’t give you is a flash, headline-grabbing Titanium

Because the US doesn't have Chip and PIN like the UK does, you can use the physical card just by swiping it at a checkout. This is of course, horribly insecure and I hope any UK roll-out of the card would come with a Chip and PIN, but users can temporarily block or entirely deactivate their physical card if they use it. Similarly, the card can be used online with a virtual card number that users can easily regenerate if they fear a site's security has been compromised.

All this comes on the heels of a third-quarter earnings report showing that for the first time on seven years, the iPhone brings in under 50% of Apple's revenue. Doubtless, this will change once the iPhone 11 range launches, but it does show that Apple is diversifying its holdings into services and wearables. The Mac and iPod lines each hold around 10% of revenue, with the remainder of the company's earnings coming from services (grown 13% in the last year) and from 'Wearables/ Home/Accessories' - formerly known as 'other' - which grew 48% in the past quarter.

words by: CHRIS COLBOURN design by: URSZULA RODAKOWSKA

68 - DOWNLOAD issue 175 In recent years, Netflix has released several wildly popular shows dealing with true crime; Making a Murderer, Mindhunter, and Unbelievable.

All of which, are hit shows providing a voyeuristic glimpse into the lives of murderers, rapists, kidnappers, and their victims. This interest in the morbid and the gruesome is nothing new and has existed for years on the internet in forums like Reddit and Websleuths, and Tumblr.

However, unlike with Netflix, members of the online crime community are not just passive viewers hoping for a quick fix of crime and popcorn. Instead, they are active participants in an ongoing discussion that sometimes moves from one of curiosity to another which is much more sinister in nature.

A quick five-minute browse of r/TrueCrime or Websleuths can easily lead you down the rabbit hole. These forums, with 158,500 and 136,500 members contain vast libraries of discourse on criminal cases. Most are high-profile, such as the murder of JonBenét Ramsey. Cases range from murders, disappearances, and kidnappings to arson and grand larceny.

Some of the cases are solved and discussed either because of new developments or to understand their motivations.

However, many of the forums focus on unsolved cases most of which have been cold for decades.

The members of these forums appear to be Sherlock-esque detectives and psychologists who want to know the truth. To know how and why criminals commit reprehensible acts that no normal person would dream of doing is the goal of the average Reddit and Websleuth member. Typically, they comment on cases with theories or re-frame the evidence and ask for the opinions of other members. For example, an r/TrueCrime thread titled ‘Why do you think Susan Smith drowned her boys?’ has prompted speculation that Smith was a ‘sociopath’ and a ‘narcissistic bitch’ who was ‘fed up’ with motherhood. The clear psychological terminology at use here (be it correctly applied or not) highlights the desire to know what drove this woman to kill, and to understand what seems impossible to fathom. Similarly, one thread titled ‘Unsolved Cold Case Help’ begs for members to look over the evidence of a cold case in Hawaii and find answers to give the truth. In these forums, members want answers, and finding the truth aims to provide the victims with justice and dignity.

However, those who stray away from these mainstream crime forums might find themselves in a much more disturbing corner of the internet. A trip to Tumblr will reveal fandoms and tags dedicated to mass shooters, serial killers, and rapists. The Columbine Massacre, in which Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold murdered twelve students and one teacher before killing themselves, has amassed an unsettling fandom. It is littered with drawings and fan-fiction (mostly pornographic) of Harris and Klebold, as well as clips from the tapes made by the boys before their killing spree. Some posts attack the victims of Columbine. Others voice a desire to have been a victim. In this vile corner of the internet, killers are glorified, perversely sexualised, and given a voice. There are users on this platform who attempt to police the discussion and remind people of what they are idolising but, unfortunately, they find themselves overshadowed.

True Crime: Justice or Fetishism? words by: SAM TILLEY design by: ELAINE TANG

If you decide to voyage into “true” crime, then a word of warning to you: stick to the moderated and user-policed areas of Reddit and Websleuths. Chances are, when someone writes a post romanticising a killer or rapist, it will either be removed or down-voted into oblivion.

You’ll generally step away from the screen with your curiosity satisfied but without feeling like you’re disrespecting a victim of a horrendous crime. If like me, you venture to Tumblr fandoms, don’t expect to leave with anything less than the feeling of disgust and unease.

words by: EVE LEWIS design by: ELAINE TANG

issue 175 playlist by: JOSH ONG design by: ORLAGH TURNER

PLAYLIST OF THE ISSUE - 69

words by: ELLA WOODCOCK design by: ORLAGH TURNER

70 - DEAR ELLA issue 175

The DSM-5 criteria are used to help determine between depression and being sad. In short there are nine criteria and the severity of each one is weighted. The criteria are:

Seasonal Affective Disorder, more commonly known as SAD, is defined by the NHS as “a type of depression that comes and goes in a seasonal pattern”.

1. Feeling depressed throughout each day on most or all days 2. Lack of interest and enjoyment in activities you used to find pleasurable 3. Trouble sleeping, or sleeping too much 4. Trouble eating, or eating too much, coupled with weight gain or weight loss 5. Irritability, restlessness, or agitation 6. Extreme fatigue 7. Unwarranted or exaggerated feelings of guilt or worthlessness 8. Inability to concentrate or make decisions 9. Suicidal thoughts or actions, or thinking a lot about death and dying

In a society that is finally deciding to educate itself about the ins & outs and dos and don’ts of mental health it is also increasingly important to recognise and differentiate if the way you are feeling is clinical or not.

Experiencing even one of these is warrant enough to seek help but knowing what to look out for is valuable when looking for fast and efficient treatment.

SAD usually causes low moods in the winter that tend to improve in the summer, however this is not always the case and sometimes it can be the reverse. SAD is recognisable if your depression comes and goes on a seasonal basis. If you have persistent low moods all year then you may suffer from Clinical Depression. Drawing a line between SAD and sad is very difficult. Understanding that it is normal to have the occasional down day without ignoring potential symptoms of something deeper is a fine art. Being educated and informed of what to look out for in ourselves but also in the people around us is the best way to gain a correct diagnosis and therefore treatment.

Treatment for SAD is the same as it would be for Clinical Depression. Light therapy is sometimes used, although the extent to which this is helpful is questioned. If you believe you may have SAD, there are some things you can do for yourself.

Aim to get as much natural light as possible. This can include getting outside more (the NHS suggest a short walk in your lunch break) but can also involve improving natural light in your living and working space. Like with clinical depression or anxiety there are many studies to show that a balanced diet and regular exercise can improve mood as a result of their involvement with serotonin.

Symptoms of SAD are similar to those of Clinical Depression, the main difference being that they come and go with the seasons. It is not completely understood why this is, but theories revolve around ideas of serotonin and melatonin production as well as our body’s circadian rhythm, which is controlled by how our body reacts to sunlight. Some of the most tell-tale symptoms that helps us to differentiate between being sad or having SAD is a feeling of worthlessness or suicidal thoughts.

It is rare to experience either of these things while just being sad. In either case there is no harm in reaching out to your GP, friends or a mental health specialist.

All mental health problems are multi-layered and therefore seeking professional and accurate advice is always the best way to tackle them. The media talks extensively about problems and symptoms that you may experience but it is vital to remember that the aim in this is to raise awareness. Not to diagnose or replace the advice and knowledge of mental health or NHS professionals. If you do believe that you are suffering, then the best thing you can do for yourself is to seek help and a diagnosis.

Listed below are some of the places in which you can find this: Cardiff University

Mental health can be so difficult to deal with because of the multitude of different aspects that contribute to it. It can sometimes seem as though the way you’re feeling is being reduced and quantified into statistics, while other times a more human approach is taken. The danger with SAD is it can be hard to receive a fast diagnosis as doctors have to monitor the patterns of your mood. This is why being able to talk and share your feelings as they happen is vital. Whether you think your mood may just be a passing feeling or you are repeatedly and consistently feeling down it is important to talk to people or note it down.

Phone:+44 (0)29 2087 4844 The Samaritans run a 24/7 helpline: Phone: 116 123 Mind Phone: 0300 123 3393 (Monday to Friday, 9am to 6pm) SANEline: Phone: 0300 304 7000 (daily, 4.30pm to 10.30pm) Textcare: comfort and care via text message, sent when the person needs it most: www.sane.org.uk/textcare

issue 175

The boy I am speaking to has told me he doesn’t want anything serious but continues to message me and ask to hang out. I really like him. Do I carry on seeing him or cut it off?

DEAR ELLA - 71

QA

These situations are really difficult because our heart and our head tell us to do different things. It is entirely understandable that you would prefer them to be there in some capacity rather than not at all. However, if they have told you they do not see anything long term – by continuing to be casual with them you could be shutting the door on another possible love opportunity.You are worth more than being somebody’s safe option. Cutting them off will seem like the hardest option but they will respect you a lot for prioritising yourself and not wait for them to make their mind up. It is important to remember however that in saying they don’t want something serious, they are not a bad person.

It hurts when your feelings aren’t reciprocated but they may be in very different life stage as you, so again you must respect this decision. It speaks volumes they chose to tell you this before things got outofhand.Surround yourself with friends, keep busy and find someone who wants the same things as you.

My best friend from school is starting to act really funny about me making new friends at university. She will always be my best friend but she can’t seem to accept that I have to meet new people when I am here. How do I stop her from belittling me when I talk about my university friends?

Your friend is not acting with you in mind. It is of course painful to see your old friends move far away and create a new life but she needs to understand that this is a necessary part of growing up and that doesn’t take away from how you feel about her. Try to explain this to her, that more friends doesn’t mean less to give to her. If she really values your friendship (and her extreme reaction indicates that she does) then she will just want the bst for you. Try to reassure her but don’t get too bogged down if you find yourself having to do so every day. Maintaining positive and regular communication is really key, especially if she is hurting. It might also be nice to invite her to university and introduce her to your new friends. This will help the situation seem less alien and removed. Be sure that she doesn’t start to become toxic through this jealousy and remind yourself that you are not in the wrong.

I am finding my course really hard this year. I have just about been ok for the last two years and now I am in my final year I haven’t been able to understand anything. I can’t drop out or change course as I have done over two thirds of my degree, but I feel like i will fail.

Chances are, if you have been able to pass the first two years, you are more than capable to pass the third. Your modules this semester be difficult, but they won’t be out of your grasp. Email your module leaders and explain – most schools offer office hours and most professors are great at emailing back to any questions. Use your course mates also, they may understand things that you don’t and vica versa. Asking for help is the best thing you can. Never suffer in silence because it might just take one sentence for things to click. A lot of this is also about your mindset. Stop telling yourself you cannot do something, not understanding something is temporary and you do have the intelligence and the means to change that.