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CITY LIMITS: TENNESSEE REPUBLICANS’ CONTEXT-FREE FURY OVER MIGRANTS

JUNE 24–30, 2021 I VOLUME 40 I NUMBER 21 I NASHVILLESCENE.COM I FREE

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CONTENTS

JUNE 24, 2021

DANCE

CITY LIMITS

The Rainbow Connection ..........................6 As drag queen Bianca Paige, Mark Middleton raised $1 million for HIV and AIDS patients. Now the city is naming a street after his persona. BY ERICA CICCARONE

Minor Threat ...............................................6 Tennessee Republicans’ fury over unaccompanied migrants in Chattanooga lacks context — even according to one of their own BY STEPHEN ELLIOTT

Pith in the Wind .........................................7

This week on the Scene’s news and politics blog

Action/Reaction

With the premiere of Enactor, dancer Becca Hoback explores the physical and the emotional BY AMY STUMPFL

BOOKS

The Story They Long For

A wonderfully devious narrator drives Mary Dixie Carter’s debut novel BY BRADLEY SIDES AND CHAPTER 16

MUSIC

COVER STORY The Road Trip Issue

Strange Days ........................................... 28

Tupelo, Mississippi .....................................8

Taking a scenic drive down the historic Natchez Trace Parkway to the gem of Northern Mississippi BY D. PATRICK RODGERS

Cumberland Plateau, Tennessee ........... 10 Small towns and natural wonders surround Monteagle, a short drive from Nashville BY STEPHEN ELLIOTT

Blue Ridge Parkway — Pisgah Region ..... 12 Asheville comforts and rugged hikes make for a flexible and diverse weekend getaway BY ALEJANDRO RAMIREZ

Bardstown, Kentucky .............................. 14

The self-proclaimed Bourbon Capital of the World offers fine spirits and a welcome change of pace

Amythyst Kiah paints a full picture of herself on Wary + Strange BY BRITTNEY McKENNA

Sharpening the Old Saws ....................... 28 J.P. Harris and Chance McCoy dive deep into Appalachian memory on Don’t You Marry No Railroad Man

BY STEVEN HALE

Ray Blanton, the KKK, and Other Specters From Tennessee's Dark History

40 BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY

Hattie B’s Partners With Flock Chicken Chips for a Novel Snack Option

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CUMBERLAND PLATEAU

HUNTSVILLE

TUPELO

Luca Is a Warm Reminder of Childhood Joys ON THE COVER:

Illustration by Mary Louise Meadors

BY EDD HURT

Concrète Jungle ...................................... 29 After a year off, Bluff City’s wildly eclectic Memphis Concrète fest stages a comeback online BY CHARLIE ZAILLIAN

The Spin ................................................... 30 BY CHARLIE ZAILLIAN

Stunning rock formations and pleasant hikes, three hours northwest of Nashville in Southern Illinois

Free Throw keeps the spirit of emo alive on Piecing It Together

From big springs to breweries and a botanical garden, the Rocket City has more to offer than astronaut ice cream

Shawnee National Forest ....................... 18

BARDSTOWN

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Grow Yourself Up ..................................... 29

The Scene’s live-review column checks out Joy Oladokun at 3rd and Lindsley

BY ASHLEY BRANTLEY

No.Stress’‘Sunset on Saturn’ Is a Subtle Exercise in Tension

BY ABBY LEE HOOD

BY STEPHEN TRAGESER

Huntsville, Alabama ................................ 16

THIS WEEK ON THE WEB:

31 FILM

The Greatest Show on Earth .................. 31 The Belcourt’s Essential Fellini series brings big-top magic to Hillsboro Village BY ERICA CICCARONE

Primal Stream 58 ................................... 32

Movies in the Park: 9 to 5, Dear Music Festival, Nashville Children’s Theatre Presents: Charlotte’s Web, Old Crow Medicine Show opens Brooklyn Bowl, Designing the New: Charles Rennie Mackintosh and the Glasgow Style, Act Like a GRRRL, Vietnam: Then and Now, Cowboy Bebop, postwar Rome and more

BY JASON SHAWHAN

Pink Lady Pfeiffer, claustrophobic terror and a ramshackle cult musical, now available to stream

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WITH BOTH VANDERBILT AND UT IN THE 2021 COLLEGE WORLD SERIES, THIS IS A GOOD YEAR FOR TENNESSEE BASEBALL FANS I’ve become a fan of the annual College World Series, which is held every June in Omaha, Neb., and this year will be one to remember. The baseball teams from both the University of Tennessee and Vanderbilt University are playing, and Mississippi State is also there, giving the SEC three of the eight teams in the 2021 CWS. I am very proud to be a Tennessean, and I have many fond memories of going to baseball games over the years with my sons — watching their faces light up as players took the field, hearing the crack of the bat, eating hot dogs, the whole experience. I have enjoyed watching Vanderbilt baseball come so far over the years. The team was not always as stellar as it has been recently — observers had even labeled the team a “perennial doormat” of college baseball at one point. But no more! When coach Tim Corbin first arrived at Vanderbilt in 2003 as head coach, the school’s baseball team had seen only six winning seasons out of 35 years in SEC play, and been to only three NCAA tournaments. Since 2004, under Corbin’s direction, the Commodores have been to every NCAA tournament but one. Ten years ago the team reached its first CWS, and this year marks their fifth trip. Of the four prior College World Series appearances, the Commodores brought home the national championship twice, in 2014 and again in 2019. There was no 2020 CWS due to the pandemic, so Vanderbilt is the defending CWS champion thanks to the team’s 2019 title. They’re also a favorite to repeat. UT would love to stand in Vanderbilt’s way — which could be unlikely due to their opening CWS loss — but if they win four straight elimination games, they could still be in the bestof-three finals. (Our press deadline was

Monday, so I am hoping UT beat Texas on Tuesday.) I also have to hand it to UT’s coach Tony Vitello — he’s been with the Vols’ baseball program only since 2017, but here they are, already in Omaha. That’s likely in large part due to Vitello, who’s been regarded as one of the top recruiting coordinators in America. UTSports.com reports that after leading the program back to the NCAA Tournament in 2019, Coach Vitello and the Vols would have likely had a strong 2020. The team was ranked as high as No. 11 in the nation after a 13-0 start, and was 15-2 heading into SEC play before the season was canceled due to COVID-19. At the start of 2019, the Vols had won their first 15 games of the season, making it the best start in the program’s history. What about this year? This year, the Vols won 18 of their first 22 games and were ranked ninth nationally, and now they’re in Omaha for the CWS. They could potentially face Vanderbilt, if the stars align. As The Tennessean notes, “Each side has a lot to lose — perhaps to the one school it would least like to lose it to.” The CWS finals do not begin until June 28, so there’s no telling what will happen in the meantime — or if UT or Vanderbilt will make it all the way through. But every Tennessean baseball fan is sitting on the edge of our seat. Every College World Series game is exciting, but this year is especially exciting, as we watch two great teams represent our state. Win or lose, they are two of the greatest teams out there — as is proven by their very presence at Omaha’s CWS 2021.

PHOTO: ERIC ENGLAND

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Editor-in-Chief D. Patrick Rodgers Senior Editor Dana Kopp Franklin Associate Editor Alejandro Ramirez Arts Editor Laura Hutson Hunter Culture Editor Erica Ciccarone Music and Listings Editor Stephen Trageser Contributing Editor Jack Silverman Staff Writers Kelsey Beyeler, Stephen Elliott, Nancy Floyd, Steven Hale, Kara Hartnett, J.R. Lind, William Williams Contributing Writers Sadaf Ahsan, Radley Balko, Ashley Brantley, Maria Browning, Steve Cavendish, Chris Chamberlain, Lance Conzett, Marcus K. Dowling, Steve Erickson, Randy Fox, Adam Gold, Seth Graves, Kim Green, Steve Haruch, Geoffrey Himes, Edd Hurt, Jennifer Justus, Christine Kreyling, Katy Lindenmuth, Craig D. Lindsey, Brittney McKenna, Marissa R. Moss, Noel Murray, Joe Nolan, Chris Parton, Betsy Phillips, John Pitcher, Margaret Renkl, Megan Seling, Jason Shawhan, Michael Sicinski, Nadine Smith, Ashley Spurgeon, Amy Stumpfl, Kay West, Abby White, Andrea Williams, Cy Winstanley, Ron Wynn, Charlie Zaillian Editorial Intern Kahwit Tela Art Director Elizabeth Jones Photographers Eric England, Matt Masters, Daniel Meigs Graphic Designers Mary Louise Meadors, Tracey Starck Production Coordinator Christie Passarello Events and Marketing Director Olivia Britton Promotions Coordinator Caroline Poole Publisher Mike Smith Senior Advertising Solutions Managers Maggie Bond, Sue Falls, Michael Jezewski, Carla Mathis, Heather Cantrell Mullins, Jennifer Trsinar, Keith Wright Advertising Solutions Managers Olivia Bellon, William Shutes, Niki Tyree Sales Operations Manager Chelon Hill Hasty Advertising Solutions Associates Aya Robinson, Price Waltman Special Projects Coordinator Susan Torregrossa President Frank Daniels III Chief Financial Officer Todd Patton Corporate Production Director Elizabeth Jones Vice President of Marketing Mike Smith IT Director John Schaeffer Circulation and Distribution Director Gary Minnis For advertising information please contact: Mike Smith, msmith@nashvillescene.com or 615-844-9238 FW PUBLISHING LLC Owner Bill Freeman VOICE MEDIA GROUP National Advertising 1-888-278-9866 vmgadvertising.com

©2021, Nashville Scene. 210 12th Ave. S., Ste. 100, Nashville, TN 37203. Phone: 615-244-7989. The Nashville Scene is published weekly by FW Publishing LLC. The publication is free, one per reader. Removal of more than one paper from any distribution point constitutes theft, and violators are subject to prosecution. Back issues are available at our office. Email: All email addresses consist of the employee’s first initial and last name (no space between) followed by @nashvillescene.com; to reach contributing writers, email editor@nashvillescene.com. Editorial Policy: The Nashville Scene covers news, art and entertainment. In our pages appear divergent views from across the community. Those views do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. Subscriptions: Subscriptions are available at $150 per year for 52 issues. Subscriptions will be posted every Thursday and delivered by third-class mail in usually five to seven days. Please note: Due to the nature of third-class mail and postal regulations, any issue(s) could be delayed by as much as two or three weeks. There will be no refunds issued. Please allow four to six weeks for processing new subscriptions and address changes. Send your check or Visa/MC/AmEx number with expiration date to the above address.

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Bill Freeman Bill Freeman is the owner of FW Publishing, the publishing company that produces the Nashville Scene, Nfocus, the Nashville Post and Home Page Media Group in Williamson County.

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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CITY LIMITS

THE RAINBOW CONNECTION As drag queen Bianca Paige, Mark Middleton raised $1 million for HIV and AIDS patients. Now the city is naming a street after his persona.

PHOTO: DANIEL MEIGS

BY ERICA CICCARONE

BIANCA PAGE

Chute in the ’90s, and at Mad Donna’s, Trax n 1990, Ron Sanford was at the Miss and other bars in the Aughts. Gay USofA pageant in Louisville, “Picture it,” she says in one video, gaudy Ky. A Nashville native, Sanford rhinestone earrings dangling down to her owned a club in Atlanta at the shoulders as her voice — coarse as sandpatime, but he stayed connected to per — contrasts with her glamorous getup. his hometown. That’s why he was “Bowling Green, Kentucky. A fag was shocked when a performer from Nashville born.” The crowd howls. “Calling Mr. Tail,” he’d never seen before came onstage. she continues. “Mr. Cock Tail. Please report “And 1,500 people within 30 seconds came to Bianca’s throat as soon as possible.” to a halt,” Sanford remembers. “You could Offstage, says Sanford, Middleton was have heard a pin drop.” “the perfect gentleman — just the perfect The drag queen named Bianca Paige person. … Mark and Bianca were totally difdelivered a Shirley MacLaine impression, ferent. Mark was very much the man, and serving Terms of Endearment, Steel MagBianca was very much the woman. It was an nolias and other samplings from the actor’s acting job for him.” famous roles. But circumstances of the AIDS “That crowd just stood still for epidemic soon gave that job seven minutes,” says Sanford. THE BIANCA a new dimension. Middleton “Then it erupted.” PAIGE WAY was diagnosed with HIV in This began a 20-year friendDEDICATION AND CELEBRATION the mid-’90s, and he decided ship between Sanford and Mark 3 P.M. SATURDAY, JUNE 26, he wouldn’t avoid the topic. Middleton, the man behind legAT TRAX, 1501 ENSLEY Instead, he took it to the stage. endary Nashville drag queen BiBLVD. “Mark decided that he was goanca Paige the Pantomime Rage. ing to be the one — to be the only On Saturday, the city will honor Her performer — to use his stage and his Eminence, who died in 2010, by dedicatpersona to get it out there,” says Sanford. ing a street in her name. Formerly Carney “He was determined to not only tell kids Street, Bianca Paige Way is located behind and people what was going on, but to get the gay bar Trax, between Second Avenue tested and to know your status.” South and Ensley Boulevard. Co-sponsored Sanford had been active in the Atlanta by Music City Prep Clinic and the Bianca chapter of ACT UP, the group that formed Paige Awareness Network, the dedication in New York City as a response to the AIDS and celebration will be an all-out street crisis and the government’s refusal to adfestival with music, food, dancing and, of dress it. “We didn’t have any help from course, drag. anybody,” says Sanford, “and people didn’t With cat-like eyes and a statuesque figwant to touch us. We had one funeral home ure, Bianca could command a room. Her in Atlanta that let us have this basement speciality was lip-synching, and you can so that we could bury our dead. And so we find her performing as Melissa Etheridge, did. We went in there, and I had decorators Celine Dion, Eartha Kitt and others on Youcome in, and we decorated it all up. And it Tube. She also played MC, doing stand-up was beautiful and ended up being the pretat Nashville clubs like The Connection and

tiest room in the whole place.” Oftentimes, Sanford would be closing down the Nashville club he managed at 5 a.m., and he’d find Middleton outside talking to young people who’d waited for him to take off his makeup and come downstairs. There Middleton would hold what he and Sanford called “church.” The young people were often recently diagnosed. Bianca had made them feel seen and understood, and Middleton could talk to them about living with HIV. For years, Bianca’s last act of the night was a dedication to those the community had lost to AIDS, and Middleton donated the tips Bianca earned to Vanderbilt University Medical Center’s Pediatric and Adolescent HIV/AIDS Clinic. Along with hosting charity events and working with other organizations such as Nashville Cares, Middleton donated $1 million to HIV/AIDS treatment and research. Sanford likes to say that he did it one dollar at a time. “That’s how we put on Pride, was dollar by dollar by dollar,” says Sanford. “And that’s how we took care of our sick. If we — our own people — would not have come in

MINOR THREAT

Tennessee Republicans’ fury over unaccompanied migrants in Chattanooga lacks context — even according to one of their own BY STEPHEN ELLIOTT

or the past few weeks, Tennessee Republicans have grown outraged, triggered by their sudden knowledge of a program initiated by Republican President Donald Trump’s administration and repeatedly approved by Republican Gov. Bill Lee’s administration. The current conflagration started when a Chattanooga television station aired footage of unaccompanied migrant children being offloaded from an airplane as they were to be transferred to a local processing and holding facility. (Others were transferred

and done the things that we did, there would have been thousands and thousands more that died.” Together, Sanford and Middleton founded the Bianca Paige Awareness Network to keep educating the community and destigmatizing the virus. That work continues to this day — but without Middleton. He succumbed to lymphoma in 2010. His memorial service at the Vanderbilt Plaza drew several hundred friends and fans who celebrated his life and impact. When asked if Middleton imagined what his legacy would be, Sanford doesn’t hesitate. “Do I think that he thought that he would ever have a street named after him? No. He knew he was doing good. … He used to say, ‘My talent is God’s gift to me. What I do with that talent is my gift to God and my community.’ I think he meant that. .... We have to keep the name out there and get people revitalized with it.” With Nashville’s long-delayed Pride celebration still three months away, the celebration is right on time. As always, Bianca will provide. EMAIL EDITOR@NASHVILLESCENE.COM

from Chattanooga to other states.) That kicked off a series of angry letters and cries for transparency from Lee (again, whose administration signed off on the facility) and other Tennessee Republicans, who blame Trump’s successor, President Joe Biden. “These reports raise many questions that need to be answered, but the basic question that must be answered is whether the federal government is using Tennessee as a central location for resettling [unaccompanied alien children] in the United States,” Republican Sens. Marsha Blackburn and Bill Hagerty and U.S. Rep. Chuck Fleischmann wrote in a May letter to Biden officials. “The citizens of Tennessee are entitled to more information. After all, their schools, hospitals and law enforcement agencies will bear the burden of this reported resettlement, which is the product of an ongoing border crisis that is making every town a border town.” This fury led state House Speaker Cameron Sexton and Lt. Gov. Randy McNally, both Republicans, to appoint a joint House and Senate committee tasked with studying “refugee issues.” (The unaccompanied minors are not technically refugees.) That group, made up of only Republicans, met for the first time Friday, where they called for enhanced oversight of the

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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CITY LIMITS

PHOTO: MATT MASTERS

THIS WEEK ON OUR NEWS AND POLITICS BLOG:

MARSHA BLACKBURN AND BILL HAGERTY

Chattanooga facility for minors and a study of the potential cost to the state and local government — the federal government foots the bill for care of the kids at the facility, though if they are later placed in homes in Tennessee they could eventually enroll in local public schools. “We have a right to know exactly who is being brought into our state and how long they will be here,” said Republican Sen. Dawn White, a co-chair of the study committee, adding that she was “deeply troubled” by the news reports she’d seen. Concern about the facility has extended to the treatment of children there. One 16-year-old reportedly went missing from the facility, and The Tennessean reported that one migrant at the facility told a Tennessee Department of Children’s Services inspector that they saw an employee kiss another child housed there. Those are exactly the kinds of concerns state officials should be worried about, immigrant activists say — not simply the fact that the children are present in Tennessee, as they have been for years. “It’s really important that the children are centered in all of these discussions, and we need to remember that these kids are extremely vulnerable, and our first priority should be ensuring their safety and protection,” says Tennessee Immigrant and Refugee Rights Coalition executive director Lisa Sherman-Nikolaus. “The unaccompanied-children program is a longestablished program that has been around under multiple presidential administrations, and Tennesseans have been providing loving and supportive homes to these kids for decades.” The committee decided to hold their next meeting on July 13 and to invite representatives from several relevant groups and government agencies to testify. One Tennessee Republican who was not surprised by the revelation that the federal government was temporarily holding some unaccompanied minors in Chattanooga: Todd Gardenhire, whose Senate district includes the facility. For the most part, he seems almost dumbfounded by his Republican colleagues’ reactions. During remarks at the study committee’s first meeting, Gardenhire sought to inject context into the discussion, responding to claims that the children were flown in “in the dead of night” by asking if, maybe, Chattanooga was simply the last stop on a long series of flights and the timing was not nefarious, and whether the types of abuse alleged at the facility are isolated or widespread. (And if it was the latter, he asked, why would we be scrutinizing this case but not the others?) He also reminded his colleagues when this all started: “By the way, Trump was president at that time.” Gardenhire doesn’t think the Baptiste Group, which runs the site for the federal government, could get a fair hearing at the legislature because of committee members’ “preconceived notions.” “Should the Baptiste Group pick up the phone and call Sen. Hagerty or Sen. Blackburn or Chuck Fleischmann every time a child comes in and out?” Gardenhire asked. “Should they stop what they’re doing — taking care of the child — to fill out reports? If I knew all this stuff was going on, why didn’t they? They have field representatives; I don’t. Why weren’t they involved early on? They should have known.” EMAIL EDITOR@NASHVILLESCENE.COM

President Joe Biden signed into law a bill creating a new national holiday: Juneteenth was originally the anniversary of news of the Emancipation Proclamation reaching enslaved people in Galveston, Texas, but it has since evolved into a broader celebration of the struggle and accomplishments of Black Americans. It passed unanimously in the United States Senate, and with just 14 votes of opposition in the House of Representatives. Despite this overwhelming — and frankly unusual — level of bipartisan legislative support, the hypocritical faux-intellectual populist vomiterati still felt it necessary to chime in so as to cash in on the grift that keeps on giving: bitter-ender Trumpists. Charlie Kirk, who doesn’t understand calendars, said with Biden’s signature there are now two summer holidays, one of which is based on race (Juneteenth is technically not in the summer, and Labor Day and Independence Day are, so there were and are still two summer holidays). Candace Owens, who doesn’t understand political realignment, says Juneteenth is segregationist, because Democrats used to be segregationists. Or something. Staffer J.R. Lind writes that these people are missing the point, because there are actual conservative reasons to celebrate Juneteenth. “If, as these people claim, they consider the founding documents America’s mission statements, we are striving toward a more perfect Union and we seek to preserve the blessings of Liberty for ourselves and our posterity,” he writes. “If you truly believe in equality of opportunity, if you believe all the things aforesaid, if you really consider slavery the moral stain it was, then Juneteenth is indeed a holiday for Americans. All of us.” … Tennessee is still struggling in the race to get more than half of its eligible citizens vaccinated. Unlike other states, Tennessee isn’t offering incentives to do so. (States with legal weed, for example, are offering “joints for jabs,” while others are entering the vaccinated into million-dollar lotteries.) Pith came up with a list of ideas for vaccine incentives, including: Derrick Henry agrees to stiffarm one (1) enemy; you get to take home one of the ducks from that Memphis hotel; and then, of course, “not getting COVID.” … Contributor Betsy Phillips is encouraged that, perhaps, Tennessee’s Klan bombings may get a fresh look. They’ve long been considered closed cold cases because — as investigators and prosecutors note — everyone involved in the bombings is dead. But a few weeks ago, a prosecutor in Hamilton County announced that 1970s Democratic Gov. Ray Blanton’s administration — already infamous for selling pardons, self-dealing and being so corrupt that legislative Democrats had Republican Lamar Alexander sworn in early to keep Blanton from, among other things, pardoning James Earl Ray — had a witness in a federal trial murdered. The Chattanooga DA investigated, convened a grand jury and announced its findings despite all the people involved having long since passed on. “I’m heartened that a prosecutor is willing to reinvestigate a cold case just to find out the truth of what happened, even if there’s no one left to prosecute,” writes Phillips. “Because the ‘but everyone’s dead’ stuff has been used to keep the truth from us for too long. I hope we’ll see more investigations like this in the future.” NASHVILLESCENE.COM/PITHINTHEWIND EMAIL: PITH@NASHVILLESCENE.COM TWEET: @PITHINTHEWIND

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THE

P I R T ROADISSUE From Huntsville to Tupelo, Bardstown and beyond, we explore six destinations perfect for a weekend getaway

Thankfully, this year’s Road Trip Issue (our third) won’t be quite as tricky as last year’s “Social Distancing Edition.” Indeed, in the six fact-finding missions we undertook for this week’s cover package, we got to enjoy so many of the things 2020 was missing: dining out, congregating, interacting with high-touch surfaces. In the stories that follow, your friends at the Scene head south to the quirky attractions of Tupelo, Miss., and the superior eats of Huntsville, Ala. We also journey east to the Monteagle, Tenn., area and the Blue Ridge Parkway’s Pisgah Region, and north to Bardstown, Ky., and the Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois. Throw this issue in the back seat of your car — or if you’re reading this on our newly redesigned website, bookmark this tab — and bring us along on your next weekend journey. We found some great spots you really ought to check out.

TUPELO, MISSISSIPPI Taking a scenic drive down the historic Natchez Trace Parkway to the gem of Northern Mississippi BY D. PATRICK RODGERS

alf the reason I opted to make my road trip destination Tupelo, Miss., was to travel the Natchez Trace Parkway — a historic stretch of twolane road that winds its way from Nashville southeast to Natchez, Miss. The parkway generally follows the Old Natchez Trace, a forest trail trod centuries ago by prehistoric animals, further blazed by Native Americans and later utilized by

white settlers. Natchez is the very definition of a scenic drive, immaculately maintained and peppered with roadside stops for vistas and historic sites. Up near the Nashville end you can find THE FINAL RESTING PLACE OF FAMED EXPLORER MERIWETHER LEWIS, who either killed himself or was killed by some unknown assassin in 1809 while making his way toward Washington, D.C. A memorial was erected to Lewis at his death and burial site near milepost 385, and it remains a popular stop for travelers. On my visit I noticed that an anonymous patriot had left a pocket compass and small American flag as tribute on one of the stones of the monument. Down closer to the Tupelo end of the trace you’ll find the PHARR MOUNDS — an archaeological site featuring eight domed

NATCHEZ TRACE

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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TUPELO BUFFALO PARK AND ZOO

CRAVE

burial mounds created by nomadic Native Americans some two millennia back. It’s awe-inspiring to look out over the Pharr site and consider all the history and culture that existed long before European settlers came to the continent. It’ll give you something to think about as you make that final stretch of the drive into Tupelo.

STAY The boutique-hotel boom hasn’t yet made its way to Tupelo, meaning if you’re looking to stay in a hotel while you’re there … well, it’ll probably have to be a Holiday Inn or Comfort Suites. But don’t do that. You can search Airbnb or Vrbo for vacationrental properties in and around the city, of which there are many. If you’re willing to make a 20- to 30-minute trek, nearby NEW ALBANY, MISS., has some really lovely spots to stay — including the CONCORD INN, a 150acre country estate with several different suites on the property. My partner and I spent a recent weekend in the Concord’s guest house, and with its various amenities (swimming pool, extensive cable channels, nearby cows and an ancient Labrador who might sniff around your quarters), we found it hard to leave. But if you want to be closer to Tupelo’s sites, find a spot to stay in the city’s FAIRPARK district, where cute cottages and bungalows abound.

Tupelo? If you didn’t know before, you will the moment you set foot into town, with its various Elvis-themed murals and tours and historical markers. Many people make the trek to Northern Mississippi for this reason alone, and if you’re a true fan, there are plenty of sites and experiences to take in. King among those (pardon the pun) is the ELVIS PRESLEY BIRTHPLACE, a museum and visitor center erected at the location where the future icon spent the first four years of his life. You’ll find little tidbits about The King’s childhood if you buy tickets and tour the Elvis Presley Museum and Memorial Chapel, but if you’re moderately or less-than-moderately interested, you can also get a quick look at the grounds, shake hands with the “Elvis at 13” statue and move on to other local attractions. When I made my way to downtown Tupelo

DO Elvis, Elvis, Elvis. Elvis Presley. Have you heard that The King was born in

ELVIS PRESLEY’S BIRTHPLACE

on a powerfully hot Saturday morning, I spotted a fat ginger cat sleeping in the window of an attorney’s office near the corner of Court and Broadway. On that same block is the Lee County courthouse, with a memorial to Confederate soldiers languishing in its lawn. These are the two sides of the American Deep South — the one we love to remember, and the one most of us would like to forget. Tupelo has many options for folks looking to go antiquing or shopping for media. RELICS ANTIQUE MARKETPLACE features two stories of vendor stalls full of furniture, quilts, comics, records, action figures, vintage clothes, jewelry, books, art, novelties, Elvis memorabilia (naturally), big-ass pine cones and more. OLE SOUTH ANTIQUES has particularly good antique picking. Like Relic, it’s full of vendor booths featuring glassware, quilts, records, furniture, antique toys, pins, bottles, brooches, picture frames and military memorabilia. You name it. If you want to do some crate-digging or book-flipping, GREATEST HITS is a fantastic repository of books, comics, records, tapes, memorabilia, art and vintage and antique wares — not to mention the largest assortment of DVDs I’ve seen in some time, and a genuinely strong record selection. Then, of course, there’s the eats. Everyone will tell you to eat at NEON PIG CAFE, and everyone is pretty much right. Both a butcher shop and a restaurant, Neon

is the spot for a burger — specifically the Famous Smash Burger, made with Benton’s Bacon mixed in with the grind. Sloppy and served on butcher paper, I’d call it a must. At the very cute coffee and dessert shop CRAVE, there’s almost no ceiling to how decadent you can go — crème brûlée, chocolate cake and something called an Oreo Avalanche. It’s also got a rock-solid cup of coffee and one of the better blueberry muffins I’ve had in recent memory. STRANGE BREW is a nice, bright little coffee shop in a former filling station with some baked-good and sandwich options. Nightlife is somewhat limited in Tupelo, but AMSTERDAM CAFE — a Palestinian-owned restaurant, bar and karaoke spot that offers shawarma, gyros and pizzas — was buzzing with activity on a recent Saturday night. And then there’s BLUE CANOE, a bar and live-music venue that stays open later than just about any other spot in town and has a good beer list and friendly clientele. Canoe also offers a “Nashville Hot” spicy crab sandwich if you’re feeling adventurous and/or homesick, but we went with a very good (and incredibly sloppy) fried bologna sandwich with some “crack dip” cheese fries, and that hit the spot. For a different sort of experience, the TUPELO BUFFALO PARK AND ZOO offers a drivethru that allows visitors to feed ostriches, zebras, bison, mini horses, camels and more. Just pay for a ticket and a bucket of feed, and roll through the grounds with your windows down — the animals will come to you. (Especially one particularly large, hungry and slightly rude camel, in my experience.) And if you’re looking for an extraordinarily quaint spot to take a stroll, the downtown area in the aforementioned NEW ALBANY is impossibly charming. Two parts Mayberry and one part Pleasantville, there’s a little strip of shops and restaurants near the TANGLEFOOT TRAILHEAD — including BRAIN FREEZE, possibly the most adorable frozen yogurt bar south of Nashville, where you can get a tasty dessert known as a “hot bottom.” Nearby is THE BIRTHPLACE OF LITERARY ICON WILLIAM FAULKNER — just a small, unassuming brick house with an inconspicuous historical marker out front. My partner and I happened across it completely by chance — just the sort of happy accident the Deep South loves to reward you with, if you go at your own pace and let a casual weekend afternoon take you where it will.

nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

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CUMBERLAND PLATEAU, TENNESSEE Small towns and natural wonders surround Monteagle, a short drive from Nashville BY STEPHEN ELLIOTT

he drive to the Sewanee area on the Cumberland Plateau is the easiest road trip in this week’s Scene — a straight shot down I-24, you’ll arrive in 90 minutes or so. But in the spirit of the issue, I took the scenic route (one way there, and a different one on the way home). With an extra hour or so to spare, it’s a delightful way to see some of the small towns and open spaces in between Nashville and the Sewanee area. On the way there for the weekend, I took Fourth Avenue South to Nolensville Pike, eventually passing through Nolensville. Further down Highway 41A, a small concert and block party was underway in the town of Eagleville. Continuing on the highway, which is more or less the same road as Fourth Avenue South downtown, you’ll eventually reach the relative metropolis of Tullahoma, and then continue through the quaint town square in Winchester and the small village of Cowan, whose importance in the area railroad system has waned, though it’s still home to a railroad museum in its old passenger depot. Then you make the climb up the plateau and eventually arrive in Sewanee. On the way home, you can again eschew the interstate and take U.S. Highway 41 (not 41A) from Monteagle, navigating switchbacks down the plateau and eventually making your way through Pelham and Manchester before the road eventually becomes Murfreesboro Pike, dead-ending at the exact point where the journey began.

STAY There aren’t a ton of hotels in the Sewanee area, but the nicest is the SEWANEE INN. The inn was built in 2014, replacing a shabbier outpost that once sat on the property. Owned by the University of the South and sitting conveniently on campus, the location is within easy walking distance of several trails and scenic overlooks and the beautiful Gothic Revival sandstone structures — including the can’t-miss All Saints’ Chapel — that make up the college’s central campus. The hotel’s patios provide prime sunset viewing and its on-site dining options are among the consistently best in the area. There are plenty of other housing options nearby, many of which can be found on the university’s centralized accommodations list online. There are creaky historic homes with shaded porches, both near the town of Sewanee and on nearby bluffs. The surrounding area is home to the MONTEAGLE ASSEMBLY, a frozen-in-time collection of Victorian-style homes. The plateau is chockfull of state parks and campgrounds for

the more adventurous. You can even stay at ST. MARY’S SEWANEE, an active convent with bluff views. Many of these accommodations will be full during busy college weekends like homecoming and graduation, so be sure to check the school’s calendar while planning your trip.

DO There’s plenty to do on the plateau for those who prefer being outside. And in the height of summer, going up “the mountain” usually means a slight — but noticeable and welcome — temperature drop from Nashville. A trip from Sewanee to one of several nearby towns or natural areas can easily take up a full afternoon or more. One favorite is TRACY CITY, where visitors can access the FIERY GIZZARD TRAIL in the SOUTH CUMBERLAND STATE PARK, a treat even for Nashvillians who just want to get out of town for the day. On the Tracy City side of the trail, a short and relatively flat hike will deposit you at pristine swimming holes, popular among families both local and from far away. A key bridge along the trail is out, which means more adventurous travelers can cross the creek — either by wading, hopping from stone to stone or scampering over a fallen tree — to access further pools. A longer hike (more than 12 miles) will deposit you at FOSTER FALLS, which is worth the trip even if you plan to drive rather than make the lengthy walk. Returning to the Tracy City trailhead, visit the DUTCH MAID BAKERY AND CAFE in town for special sweets or a light lunch, or TEA ON THE MOUNTAIN for full tea service. On the drive to and from Sewanee, you’ll pass a historic marker — it’s inconspicuous and easy to miss, like most historic markers, but this one is worth noting. It marks THE FORMER SITE OF THE HIGHLANDER FOLK SCHOOL, founded by educators and activists in the 1930s and a pivotal piece of civil rights history. Rosa Parks trained there before her famous bus ride. Martin Luther King Jr. and John Lewis went there too. The school’s music director, Zilphia Horton, first published the song “We Shall Overcome” — which she adapted from earlier songs — in the 1940s, before it went on to become a protest anthem. The state of Tennessee forced the center to close decades ago, though it reopened in East Tennessee later. Back in Sewanee, you can eat and drink your way through “downtown,” a small collection of shops and restaurants. Many establishments have come and gone there in recent years — victims of the highly seasonal nature of a college town with a small population. But mainstays SHENANIGANS and BLUE CHAIR have stuck around, and they’re so close to one another you can try them both at once. Try the fried zucchini, spicy turkey melt or a hearty deli sandwich at Shenanigans, a favorite among locals, students and alumni for years. And bring a pitcher of beer outside to the front porch, where everyone seems to know one another. Over at Blue Chair, there’s

SEWANEE INN

PERIMETER TRAIL

DUTCH MAID BAKERY AND CAFE more fried food, including top-tier fried chicken, in addition to lighter fare and Jackalope beers on tap. The hours at STIRLING’S COFFEE HOUSE are somewhat dependent on the school calendar, but if you happen to be in town when it’s open, stop in for a tasty drink or the curry chicken salad. Sewanee’s golf course, THE COURSE AT SEWANEE — renovated by acclaimed course designer Gil Hanse in 2013 and located adjacent to the inn — is worth the trip. Check

it out even if you hate golf, because its bluff views are among the best in the area. Tracing the edge of one of those bluff views is the PERIMETER TRAIL, a 20-mile behemoth of a loop that shows you just about all of the best sites around the school’s edge. Though it’s a rite of passage to complete the entire thing in one day, fear not: It can easily be cut up into much smaller chunks, all of them easily accessible by car, and many of the best views you can drive to if you prefer.

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY — PISGAH REGION Asheville comforts and rugged hikes make for a flexible and diverse weekend getaway BY ALEJANDRO RAMIREZ

he Blue Ridge Parkway is a massive stretch of road snaking its way through mountains, across North Carolina and into Virginia. You could probably plan a whole summer exploring the various parks, trails and towns that dot the parkway. But for shorter excursions, you can also pick one of the four districts it’s divided into and go from there. The southernmost section is the Pisgah Region, contained entirely in North Carolina, and that’s where my partner and I headed for the weekend. The Blue Ridge Parkway’s official website is full of planner tools, suggested itineraries and even an interactive map, so be sure to check it out — especially since GPS and cell signals can get wonky out there. It’s a useful starting point, but once you get on the road you’ll likely find views, trails and more that interest you, so play it loose and enjoy the mountain air.

STAY The headquarters of the Blue Ridge Parkway is Asheville, N.C. The town’s popularity has boomed in recent years, thanks to a slate of offerings for outdoorsy and indoorsy types alike. There’s no shortage of options for hotels and short-term rentals, but my partner and I decided to sorta-kinda rough it at the CAMPFIRE LODGINGS campsite just 16 minutes from downtown Asheville. We checked in, drove to our designated site and set up a tent. Campfire has other options, including yurts, cabins and spots for RVs. If you’re a party of six, you could even rent out the CLIFF HOUSE. The campground has a few hiking trails and a gorgeous outlook where you can take in some mountains and a river. As close to the city as you are — you can hear

Asheville traffic and revelers leaving the downtown bars in the wee hours — you’re still pretty close to nature, so be cautious. We were warned a family of bears lived on the mountain and would scrounge around for food at night. They weren’t aggressive but would go after coolers and boxes. Other wildlife visitors to our campsite included lizards, hares, butterflies and a doe.

DO Asheville offers easy access to state and national parks as well as smaller camping and hiking spots by DRIVING THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY. You could spend hours just driving around, taking in views and stopping at various overlooks. If you’re not inclined to stop every few minutes to take a photo, you should still be sure to switch out driving duties so you can at least enjoy the views from the passenger seat. When choosing trails, we kept our hikes on the easy side. Heading north on the parkway, you can travel to the CRAGGY GARDENS. Many of the signature rhododendrons unfortunately weren’t in full bloom (it looked like they’d peaked a couple weeks earlier), but the trees at the top were still quite impressive, framing picturesque mountain views. Drive one minute further, and you can also find an easy path to the CRAGGY DOME OVERLOOK, which offers terrific views of the mountain ranges in each direction. Less than an hour south of Asheville you can visit MOUNT PISGAH — drive right up to the summit or park at a trailhead of your choice. We parked at the BUCK SPRING GAP OVERLOOK near the summit, and hopped onto the trail of the same name for a one-mile hike to the PISGAH INN. The trail had some steep spots but was well-maintained — probably a good warmup for experienced hikers or any adventurers who have some extra energy they’d like to expend. It also had some rhododendrons that were still in bloom and healthy, plus a cool section of trees curving to form a tunnel. At the end of the trail you reach the Pisgah Inn, which also features an impressive observatory deck and restaurant. While there’s a special magic to more

BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY

RED GINGER DIMSUM AND TAPAS

PINBALL MUSEUM OF ASHEVILLE natural overlooks, sitting in a rocking chair with a perfect view of the mountains was a nice reward after a short hike. If you’re looking for waterfalls or for more challenging hikes, you can also explore elsewhere in PISGAH NATIONAL FOREST. After a day of driving and hiking, you can unwind with an evening in DOWNTOWN ASHEVILLE. There are plenty of museums, but one of the more interactive would be the PINBALL MUSEUM OF ASHEVILLE. The museum features classic pinball machines (including some rare ones that are display-only) and newer games as well, plus some arcade cabinets in the back. For a $15 ticket, most of the games are free to play, and you can grab a snack or drink while you try to thwart Darth Vader and the Evil Empire one pinball at a time. Outside of downtown, you can visit GROVEWOOD VILLAGE, a collection of museums and art galleries that also makes for a good day trip on the way in or out of town. Various sculptures — including spinning

flower-like wind sculptures made of steel — dot the strip of land. The ESTES-WINN ANTIQUE CAR MUSEUM features two rows of classic vehicles, packing a lot of history into the small former mill, while the nearby GROVEWOOD GALLERY features lots of unique sculpture, jewelry, furniture and more (much of which was for sale). Nearby is the historic GROVE PARK INN, an impressive hotel made of stone that features a terrace overlooking the golf course. You’ll need fuel for all that hiking, and Asheville’s restaurant scene has you covered. For breakfast, hit up LIBERTY HOUSE CAFE for the sourdough pancake — perfectly crispy outside and fluffy inside, full of juicy blueberries — or the breakfast sandwich, a not-too-crumbly sausage with egg, cheese and sauce on a dense muffin that won’t get soggy or hard to handle. For dinner, one of our most memorable meals was at the small-plate restaurant RED GINGER DIMSUM AND TAPAS. The Red Ginger Tuna Tataki was a few slices of perfectly seared fish in a punchy ginger dressing, while the pork spare ribs were chewy and savory. For dessert, you can head to FRENCH BROAD CHOCOLATE LOUNGE, or if there’s too long a line, hit up their boutique around the corner — I recommend the beer-infused bon-bons, which perfectly paired chocolate flavors and styles with local brews. Speaking of beer, there’s no shortage of breweries in Asheville. If you’re looking for food or have a big group, try WICKED WEED’s sprawling spot just south of Patton Avenue. Their Watermelon Dragonfruit Session is a great tart summer drink (and has made me far more receptive to sours), as is their signature Pernicious IPA. It’s a great way to get off your feet, whether you’ve been summiting mountains or hoofing it around town.

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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BARDSTOWN, KENTUCKY The self-proclaimed Bourbon Capital of the World offers fine spirits and a welcome change of pace

you’ve got the whole place to yourself at a very reasonable rate, within walking distance of a bevy of shops and eateries.

BY STEPHEN TRAGESER

hiskey connoisseurs and history buffs probably already know Bardstown, Ky., a small town about 45 minutes south of Louisville on I-65. Europeans crossed the Appalachians and settled in the area in the 1770s, and the town’s incredibly charming and walkable downtown area incorporates a significant amount of historic construction. Bardstown is also home to or within a short drive of a ton of distilleries, including those where some of the biggest names in bourbon make their spirits: The self-ascribed moniker The Bourbon Capital of the World is pretty accurate. Like a lot of small towns, Bardstown is more rewarding for early risers than night owls. If you’re looking to get away and take it easy for a couple of days, or for a home base for your pilgrimage along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, this is the spot.

The Little House is about four blocks from MAMMY’S KITCHEN AND BAR. While you can eat well at any meal, breakfast (served starting at 6:30 a.m. most days) is the ringer. The staples of the menu are country kitchen fare like flapjacks and perfectly crisp and tender country-fried steak. Portion sizes teeter on the edge of decadent. You could argue that the breakfast hot brown (they also offer a traditional suppertime take on the Kentucky specialty) falls right over that edge. But it lands softly in a small lake of parmesan cheese sauce and eggs atop a mouth-watering mountain of country ham, roast turkey and Texas toast. If you need to chase off a hangover or lay down a foundation for a day of bourbon drinking, Mammy’s has you covered. Other spots offer meals that are hearty but not quite as hedonistic — the bacon-and-egg sandwich at PAT’S PLACE tastes like you made it at home, always a plus. CAFE PRIMO had a knockout tiramisu, balancing all the rich flavors of chocolate, mascarpone, coffee and wine in a magic trick of a dessert that eats almost as light as Cool Whip. It’s a shame we didn’t have time to try one of Cafe Primo’s pizzas, because the one being shared by the family across the aisle from us looked and smelled amazing. We travel to Ohio to visit family several times a year, and we’re going to try and plan future trips around stops at HADORN’S BAKERY, a Bardstown institution offering doughnuts that are hard to beat anywhere. If you’re going to have just one, make it a Yum Yum — a sort of cinnamon bun that’s braided instead of rolled, then glazed and topped with streaks of gooey icing. As you might expect, most bars around town have walls lined with shelf upon shelf of bourbon, and most barkeeps we encountered were adept at showcasing the local spirit. If you’re going to pick by atmosphere, THE BLIND PIG BOURBON SPEAKEASY was the coziest we found, feeling relaxed even when it was near capacity. There’s a little bit of a ritual to get in — you’re supposed to phone from outside and answer the bartender’s trivia question — but no one was overly precious about it. The Blind Pig closes at midnight, which is pretty late by Bardstown standards, and it’s the kind of place where you could dress up if you felt like it, but you’re not going to feel selfconscious if you don’t. Bourbon, as you might know, has developed a cult following that can be kind of intimidating for a casual drinker like myself. Distillery tours are a good way to get up close and personal with the beloved oak-aged liquor. Though you’ll want to book tours well in advance, by staying in Bardstown you’re roughly a half-hour drive from JIM BEAM, MAKER’S MARK and FOUR ROSES, and slightly less from Nashvillian Wally

W STAY

Your options for lodgings in Bardstown run the gamut from chain hotels to centuries-old establishments. Some portions of the original 1779 structure housing THE TALBOTT INN, on Court Square in the heart of downtown, are still in use; a larger section dates to 1913. Among other historic figures, the inn and its tavern (now a restaurant and bar called OLD TALBOTT TAVERN) hosted Daniel Boone, Abraham Lincoln and Jesse James. The Airbnb we chose for our weekend stay is much more modest, but like so much else in the city, it’s a well-preserved link to the past. The home is called THE LITTLE HOUSE — quite appropriate for a kit house, purchased from a Sears Roebuck catalog and delivered to Bardstown by rail in 1920 or 1921. The amenities are somewhat limited (no Wi-Fi), but it’s got what really counts (up-to-date plumbing and central HVAC) and is wellsuited for a single person or a couple. Plus,

THE TALBOTT INN

MAMMY’S KITCHEN AND BAR Dant’s LOG STILL. You’re practically spoiled for choice right in Bardstown, as well: The BARTON 1792 distillery is a stone’s throw from downtown, while LUX ROW (which produces Rebel Yell, Ezra Brooks and more), WILLETT and the HEAVEN HILL BOURBON HERITAGE CENTER aren’t much farther. Many of these firms have been distilling for decades or longer. The massive operation at BARDSTOWN BOURBON COMPANY, 10 minutes from downtown, was launched in 2016. We stopped in for the one-hour FROM DISTILLATE TO BARREL TOUR, in which our knowledgeable and personable guide led us through a tasting that included fresh distillate (aka moonshine) as well as aged whiskeys. She also took us through the distilling plant and then out to one of the company’s rickhouses, where she thieved (that’s a technical term for dipping with a giant copper straw-like device) some samples from a barrel of BBC’s own bourbon. It’s been aging since 2016 and won’t go to market until next year. (Bardstown Bourbon Company has sold very little whiskey under its own label so far, but through its custom distilling program, you’ve probably tasted some of their handiwork in what Belle Meade Bourbon and other newer distillers offer while their own whiskey ages.) In addition to being fun and delivering the mildest hint of a buzz, the tour left us with some more tools in our kit for deciding what we truly enjoy in a bourbon rather than going on reputation. You can easily fill a weekend with distillery tours and meals in Bardstown. But while you’re walking off the calories around

downtown, you could pay a visit to the OLD BARDSTOWN COLONIAL VILLAGE, featuring a collection of frontier cabins spread over a verdant park. It’s very close to MUSEUM ROW, which includes the WOMEN’S MUSEUM OF THE CIVIL WAR, chronicling an array of contributions that don’t get talked about enough. It’s worth noting that Museum Row is aware that a key part of the story remains underrepresented: They’ve got an open call for artifacts representing the experiences of both free and enslaved Black people during the war. If a nature hike is more your speed, the beautiful and expansive BERNHEIM ARBORETUM, which Scene editor-in-chief D. Patrick Rodgers visited on his Louisville road trip in 2019, is very near as well. If you have a car or motorcycle that you enjoy driving on a country road, you’ve got those for miles and miles all around Bardstown — if you have the luxury of time, taking a detour off I-65 on the way from Nashville is highly recommended. And if nothing else, bring that book you’ve been meaning to read, plop down on a bench off the square for a while and bask in the pleasure of watching the world go by. BERNHEIM ARBORETUM

BARDSTOWN BOURBON COMPANY

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

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HUNTSVILLE, ALABAMA From big springs to breweries and a botanical garden, the Rocket City has more to offer than astronaut ice cream BY ASHLEY BRANTLEY

hat do Chelsea Clinton, the Olsen twins and Ozzy Osbourne have in common? They all came to Space Camp in Huntsville, Ala. While camp is still an option if you so choose, there are plenty of things to do in Huntsville for those who don’t want to follow in their zerogravity footsteps. Plus, at less than two hours from Nashville by car, it’s an ideal weekend escape from the record trashlorette season our city is projected to have this year. Here’s how it’s done.

STAY Boutique hotels have yet to hit Huntsville, so you’re looking at big-box lodgings. With less than 200,000 people, Huntsville is still a small town, relatively speaking, and that has its pros (free parking!) and cons (no room service). EMBASSY SUITES BY HILTON is dog-friendly but dated, with big convention-at-the-airport vibes. But it’s downtown, has an indoor pool and offers a free hot breakfast that’s more than rock-hard bagels and thimbles of cream cheese. The best lodging, however, is the AC HOTEL BY MARRIOTT, which is clean, comfortable and centrally located. Its onsite restaurant and a bar were closed much of the time we were there due to COVIDrelated staffing issues, but we did manage to grab a drink at the outdoor second-floor bar, which has a lovely view of BIG SPRING INTERNATIONAL PARK. Big Spring is important. It’s the reason Revolutionary War vet John Hunt founded the city where it is in 1805. The limestone spring pumps out up to 20 million gallons of fresh water a day — though the land and the name “big spring” were stolen from the

indigenous Cherokee and Chickasaw, as was (and is) the American Way. The surrounding park — which had been established by 1900 — is decorated with international gifts to the city: a lighthouse from Norway, a bench from the U.K., a sundial from Germany. The most iconic: 60 cherry trees and a red bridge donated by a Japanese general who attended a nearby missile school (!) in the ’60s and grew to love the city. Strolling around the lake and feeding the ducks, geese and koi is a great way to start your day — preferably with cinnamon-roll bread pudding from nearby COZY COW in hand.

DO Most fine dining in Huntsville comes from James Boyce. The Culinary Institute of America grad worked under Daniel Boulud and cooked in Vegas and Southern California before moving to Huntsville in 2008. He opened COTTON ROW, which features “fine American cuisine with strong Southern influences” — aka the logline of 99.9 percent of upscale dining establishments in the South. We grabbed brunch there, and it was appetizing if unremarkable. (Can truffle fries please be over?) Dinner looks more interesting, but I’d recommend kicking it fully old-school at Boyce’s COMMERCE KITCHEN. Their fried green tomatoes (pimento cheese, smoked aioli) were a crunchy, zingy paragon, as was their impeccable shrimp scampi (angel hair, tomato — the basics, but better). Add approachable cocktails, an ebullient staff and a cozy bar and you’ll see why this place is often booked full of locals. For casual fare, hit CAMPUS NO. 805. The former middle school has been flipped into an adult playground complete with arcade games, virtual golf, ballroom dancing and ax throwing. Campus is also home to two breweries, bars, a coffee shop and a tasty “Mexican-fusion restaurant.” HOPS N GUAC is worth visiting for the self-serve drink wall alone, which uses electronic wristbands to unlock 50 taps of beer, wine and cider that are added to your bill with each swipe. It’s equal parts thrilling and terrifying, espe-

EARTH AND STONE WOOD FIRED PIZZA

cially since Huntsville’s purple-cup rule means you can get a go cup most anywhere and legally stumble all over town with it. The best place to eat at Campus is at YELLOWHAMMER BREWING. Start with a T-Minus Kölsch — a tangerine beer spotlighting NASA’s love affair with Tang — served in skinny “stange” glasses, just as they do in Cologne. Then grab a pie from EARTH AND STONE WOOD FIRED PIZZA. One taste of the Infamous Tommy G pie — tangy red sauce, fresh spinach, salty meats — and you’ll see why they’ve grown to two brick-and-mortar locations from the single trailer where they started back in 2013. Finish with their signature adult ice cream in bourbon butter pecan. A few blocks from Campus, there’s BANDITO BURRITO, which is beloved but skippable. It’s got clever decor and a decent margarita, but if you serve me a burrito where one bite is all sour cream, the next is all lettuce and so on, may God have mercy on your soul. Luckily, across the street is the superior TAQUERIA EL CAZADOR BUS. I ordered a mango agua fresca and street tacos (pastor, carnitas) that were cheap, delicious and served with the crucial pickled carrots and citrusy green sauce. Bonus: You can also get Taqueria El Cazador’s cuisine at Stovehouse, another mixed-use facility a quarter-mile down the road. It made me think: Wouldn’t it have been cool if we put Mas Tacos or La Juquilita in Fifth + Broadway instead of the 65th concept by Arizona’s Fox Restaurants? Just a thought. Anyway, STOVEHOUSE is worth a walkthrough. It stands on the grounds of the Martin Stamping & Stove factory, which was built in 1929 and reopened in 2019. Today it’s full of restaurants, shops, outdoor spaces and live music, but its history still peeks through in bridge trusses, weathered tanks and industrial remnants. When it comes to beer, Huntsville’s got you covered with 10-plus spots downtown. Enjoy a pint and a board game at INNERSPACE BREWING COMPANY (just beware of ’90s Trivial Pursuit, which is less about Kurt and Courtney and more about Clinton’s cabinet). Dip into SALTY NUT BREWERY for lots of outdoor space and even more squirrel paraphernalia. Or hit up GREEN BUS for small-batch specialties or CHANDLER’S FORD to experience their unique tank-to-tap delivery system. If you’re traveling with children, EARLYWORKS CHILDREN’S MUSEUM is a no-brainer. Kids can touch, climb and pull on stuff till they plum pass out. There’s a storytelling tree, a “Kidstruction Zone,” a bandstand and an old general store. (I don’t know what

U.S. SPACE & ROCKET CENTER it is with kids and old-time grocery stores, but based on the amount of time I spent in the Piggly Wiggly at the Pink Palace growing up, it’s an ageless fascination.) On your way out, grab a pamphlet for the LUCKY DUCK SCAVENGER HUNT. If your kids can spot all 14, hit the visitors’ center to claim your prize. For a dose of tranquility, try the HUNTSVILLE BOTANICAL GARDENS, which offers 120 acres of flowers, wooded paths, grassy meadows and water features. It also has an interactive Children’s Garden and the nation’s biggest open-air butterfly house, which is apparently A Thing! Last but not least, there’s Huntsville’s best-kept secret: the U.S. SPACE & ROCKET CENTER. Obviously, that is a joke. Rocket City is not shy about proclaiming itself the “space capital of the universe,” so don’t be surprised if astronaut ice cream magically appears in your hand as you cross the county line. For those who weren’t aware — i.e., me — Huntsville is home to the rockets that first put men on the moon, and the center delivers on being the largest space museum in the world. They’ve got moon rockets, capsule trainers, design modules, next-gen vehicles and a bunch of other words I only vaguely understand. Bottom line: If you like space, go. At the very least, standing under a real space shuttle is pretty cool. And if you don’t find that entertaining, just look up the video of Ozzy asking an astronaut why she didn’t have sex in space. All hail The Prince of Darkness.

HUNTSVILLE BOTANICAL GARDENS

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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Car Culture An all-new experience in collaboration with the National Corvette Museum parking at Adventure Science Center August 28 - November 28 Learn more at AdventureSci.org/car-culture

Share your road trip pics for a chance to be featured in the exhibit by tagging @AdventureSci & using #CarCultureNash on social media.

nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

SHAWNEE NATIONAL FOREST Stunning rock formations and pleasant hikes, three hours northwest of Nashville in Southern Illinois BY STEVEN HALE

e didn’t throw a dart at a map to choose the Shawnee National Forest as our road-trip destination this year, but we might as well have. I was completely unfamiliar with the 290,000-acre wood that sits between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers in Southern Illinois before I started aimlessly poking around on Google Maps for possible weekend-getaway locations. But there it is, just three hours northwest of Nashville and home to hiking trails, photogenic rock formations, stunning views and Bigfoot merchandise (mugs, Tshirts and the like, as the famous cryptid is thought by some to reside in the area).

STAY Before we get to where and how to stay in the Shawnee National Forest, a note about getting there. The shortest route will take you through Marion, Ky., and from there you will continue on north through an Amish village before you get to the Ohio River near Cave-In-Rock State Park. The CAVE-IN-ROCK FERRY will take you across the river and into Illinois. Sounds neat, right? And it is, hon-

estly, especially if you’re not used to taking a ferry. Thing is, you might arrive — as we did — just as the ferry is leaving, and then you might wait for it to go to the other side and back, and then you might find out that the car right in front of you is the last one to fit and so you will have to wait again. Once we got on the ferry and to the other side of the river, we agreed that bridges are good. Once you’re in the forest, though, the options for lodging run the gamut. You can camp, glamp, or rent cabins that vary from log to luxury. There are the cabins of the family-friendly EGYPTIAN HILLS RESORT as well as a variety of more standard home rentals. We ended up in one of the latter, partly because our trip fell on Memorial Day weekend and most other options were booked — but also because the house had a hot tub. There are options beyond the forest too, however. If you’re looking to mix some small-town exploring with outdoor activities, the nearby towns of METROPOLIS, MARION and HARRISBURG are worth checking out for rentals within easy driving distance of the forest.

DO The forest contains several recreation areas with water for swimming, as well as a few areas where you can go horseback riding if that’s your sort of thing. We focused on hikes and sights. First on our list was GARDEN OF THE GODS. A short hike — a quartermile or so — will get you from the parking lot to some of the tall and bizarrely beautiful

GARDEN OF THE GODS

GARDEN OF THE GODS rock formations that are, apparently, the Shawnee National Forest’s best-known attraction. This was a perfect outing for our two children — 3 and nearly 6 — who only asked us to carry them a couple times. How to describe these formations? It looks like a giant-sized toddler was playing with boulders and left them stacked and strewn all around the wilderness. Naturally, you will want to take photos. Please be careful, folks. There are absolutely some people risking it all for an Instagram post on some of these rocks. You don’t have to be on the literal edge! The photo will still be great. The next day we took a slightly longer hike — still less than a mile — on the RIM ROCK NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL. There we found more memorable rock formations — only this time instead of standing on top of them, you’re standing beneath them or in between them. This was a blast, and we were told that during some parts of the year or after a particularly strong rainstorm, you can see waterfalls. As for eating, this is a forest. It’s not exactly dotted with restaurants. We brought food to cook for ourselves. That said, we did get a recommendation, which I will pass on to you. THE RED ONION, a restaurant said to have good steaks, is located in the small town of EQUALITY. The establishment’s slogan is “Yes! It’s Worth the Drive!” EMAIL EDITOR@NASHVILLESCENE.COM

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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SAFOR LE

Wedgewood Houston 43 Wharf Avenue

The future of affordable housing. Compact, high-efficiency community.

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In partnership with:

Energy Efficient The homes are designed with energy efficiency in mind. Blower door tests were performed three times during construction: twice pre-drywall and once at the completion of construction. The final blower door tests were between 2.7 and 3.5 ACH50; local code requires scores of 7 ACH50 or below. Through a testing a verification process performed by a credentialed energy rater, the homes have received official HERS scores, ranging from 51 to 54. 4 homes available

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YO-YO MA – STUART DUNCAN EDGAR MEYER – CHRIS THILE with guest AOIFE O’DONOVAN

August 11 Tickets and Information

615.687.6400 | NashvilleSymphony.org

the entire community is invited without charge to

...

a taste of Judaism Everything you always wanted to know about Judaism in three easy lessons . . . with Rabbi Rami Shapiro Join us Virtually via ZOOM on Tuesdays, July 6th, July 13st & July 20th at 6:00 pm Please register for the class at: thetemplehub.org or templenashville.org nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

SHOWING

27th Annual

TONIGHT

JUNE 24 9 TO 5 FREE TO ND! E T T A

Elmington Park

Food trucks, games & fun start at 5 p.m. Movies start at sundown.

N A S H V I L L E M O V I E S I N T H E PA R K . C O M SPONSORED BY

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

#MIP21 FOOD VENDORS

Come early for a special surprise performance that you won’t want to miss! I N PA R T N E R S H I P WITH

CRITICS’ PICKS W E E K L Y

R O U N D U P

O F

T H I N G S

T O

D O

[FIGHT THE POWER]

INTRODUCING BRANDON DE SHA

[CUP OF AMBITION]

MOVIES IN THE PARK: 9 TO 5

For this, the final week of June, we at the Scene are bringing you a stone-cold classic as the last installment in our Movies in the Park series. Released 41 years ago, 9 to 5 remains perpetually relevant thanks to its themes of workers’ empowerment and feminism — not to mention the fact that it’s a lot of fun. It also features dynamite performances from its trifecta of powerhouse stars, Jane Fonda (who also co-produced), comedic legend Lily Tomlin and particularly Dolly Parton, the latter of whom made her feature-film debut here. Parton also wrote and performed the film’s iconic titular song, which ultimately went platinum, spent two weeks at No. 1 on the Billboard Hot 100 and earned the singer a pair of Grammys. Good luck getting that one out of your head once our screening is over. As always, Movies in the Park is free, and attendees can expect food trucks, contests and more — so get there early and bring something to sit on. 5 p.m. (with the movie beginning at sundown) at Elmington Park, 3531 West End Ave. D. PATRICK RODGERS [WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR?]

VIETNAM: THEN AND NOW

If you liked the Frist’s Creating the American West in Art exhibition, you might want to check out Hendersonville’s

[MAKE IT NEW]

ART

DESIGNING THE NEW: CHARLES RENNIE MACKINTOSH AND THE GLASGOW STYLE

INTRODUCING BRANDON DE SHA THROUGH JULY 3

ZieherSmith, 509 Third Ave. S.

Monthaven Arts & Cultural Center, which is currently home to work by David Wright and Chuck Creasy. Both artists served in the Vietnam War, and have made work that responds to that era and its corresponding social upheaval. Wright is a Gallatin resident whose paintings of the American frontier have won him acclaim — he was recently named Artist of the Year by the Booth Western Art Museum. Back in 1965, Wright was a young Army adviser, and during his tour of duty he spent time sketching his comrades, as well as Vietnamese civilians from the country’s highlands. Those personal works will be on display alongside paintings by Creasy, who used watercolors to re-create photographs he took while stationed in Vietnam. It’s a well-conceived show that offers a uniquely personal glimpse into history. Through Aug. 1 at Monthaven Arts & Cultural Center, 1017 Antebellum Circle, Hendersonville LAURA HUTSON HUNTER

FRIDAY / 6.25 [KNOW YOUR ROOTS]

DEAR MUSIC FESTIVAL

There is a multitude of Black music traditions in Music City, and we need a broader array of festivals to help celebrate them. Enter the inaugural Dear Music Festival, a three-day affair focusing on local and regional hip-hop, gospel and contemporary Christian music. Friday’s party at Nissan Stadium Lot R will put the spotlight on an array of rising Nashville rap talent, with appearances from Trapperman Dale, Daisha McBride, FU Stan, Namir Blade, Malcolm DeWayne and many others. Saturday, the proceedings move down to Riverfront Park for a bill including Houston-raised Aughts hip-hop champ Lil Flip, Atlanta’s DJ Unk, New Orleans-based 2020 The Voice contestant Casme, B.B. King’s Blues Club mainstays Nashville All Star Band and lots more. And on Sunday, Lot R hosts a White and Denim Day Party with inspirational singers like Quintavious

Most art movements are acts of rebellion against what came before. Art Nouveau was a movement born of the intellectual and cultural freedoms Europeans were experiencing at the turn of the 20th century. Artists created a new visual vocabulary influenced by organic and geometric forms, simplifying ideas, lines and forms to their essence. Art Nouveau originated in Paris, and Glasgow — the industrial heart of Scotland — was where the style caught on in the United Kingdom. Architect, designer and artist Charles Rennie Mackintosh is considered the master of the British interpretation of Art Nouveau. Designing the New: Charles Rennie Mackintosh and the Glasgow Style, on view at the Frist Art Museum, presents 165 works of fine and decorative art — including architectural drawings, books, ceramics, furniture, posters, textiles and watercolors. The exhibition shows the influence of Islamic and Japanese art on the movement, as well as the role that architecture played in the art world during Mackintosh’s time. Mackintosh didn’t work alone — it takes more than one artist to make a movement. His colleagues and fellow students at The Glasgow School of Art formed a group they called The Four that would define the Glasgow Style, marked by, as the Frist describes, “taut linear treatment, elongated human figures, stylized hybrid plant/ human forms, a slight asymmetry, and enigmatic symbols.” The exhibition is sure to complement the Frist’s Art Deco building, the style itself a reaction to Art Nouveau. Through Sept. 12 at the Frist Art Museum, 919 Broadway ERICA CICCARONE MUSIC

FILM

LAURA HUTSON HUNTER

STEPHEN TRAGESER

MUSIC

Photographer and multimedia artist Brandon De Sha is brand-new to exhibiting — his first show is currently on view in downtown Nashville at ZieherSmith. That’s not a bad place to start: The gallery’s track record includes the debut exhibitions of Eddie Martinez, Rachel Owens and Paul Anthony Smith, all of whom are now represented by blue-chip galleries, with work selling for six figures and beyond. (A work by Martinez sold at Christie’s for $2 million in 2014.) De Sha is a St. Louis native early in his career, and his collage work — all of which is priced between $300 and $750 — grapples with identity, social constructs and his own experiences. From an interview with De Sha on the ZieherSmith website: “Making art is my way of channeling all my rage at those manifestations of white supremacy into something physical that destroys the canon of it all, and exorcising demons at the same time. I think those experiences made me just hate authority figures, and this is my ‘Fuck You’ to the powers that be.” Love a bold entrance. See the work in person at ZieherSmith — make an appointment in advance or visit the gallery’s Instagram account to keep track of availability — or check out the exhibition’s viewing room via ziehersmith.com. Through July 3 at ZieherSmith, 509 Third Ave. S.

ART

Johnson, Adriann Lewis-Freeman, Pastor Mike Jr. and the Ed Sullivan of gospel music himself, Dr. Bobby Jones. Visit dearmusicnonprofit.org for ticketing information and complete details. June 25-27 at Nissan Stadium, Lot R (408 S. First St.) and Riverfront Park (100 First Ave. N.)

“UNTITLED (BIG HORSE),” BRANDON DE SHA

ART

THURSDAY / 6.24

[IN THE TRADITION]

OLD CROW MEDICINE SHOW OPENS BROOKLYN BOWL

Despite some relatively hardedged moments on the 2004 fulllength O.C.M.S. that tie the band’s sound to, say, the Grateful Dead’s, Old Crow Medicine Show’s version of folk music sounds pretty much like folk music to me. Still, they epitomize a dominant strain of Americana, and on the two occasions I’ve seen Old Crow, they did indeed speak for their audience, with leader Ketch Secor doing his thing as a compelling frontperson. Me, I have a soft spot for folk music and the Dead — the traditional ways of the past. But as Old Crow’s 2017 Bob Dylan tribute album 50

nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 31, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

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CRITICS’ PICKS

OLD CROW MEDICINE SHOW

COMMUNITY

SUNDAY / 6.27

[GRRRL POWER!]

ACT LIKE A GRRRL

SATURDAY / 6.26 [SOME PIG]

PHOTO: GRACE PENNER

Years of Blonde on Blonde reminds me, folkies tend to distrust the modernist rock and pop that influenced Dylan in the 1960s. Old Crow’s 2018 album Volunteer contains some nice music, and they do have a way with songwriting, as Secor’s co-write with Dylan, “Wagon Wheel,” proves. They play two shows this weekend at the opening of Brooklyn Bowl, the music venue and bowling alley whose original March 2020 opening date got pushed back by the pandemic. Tennessee neo-bluegrassers The Po’ Ramblin’ Boys fill the opening slot on Friday night, while singer-songwriter and bluegrass guitar virtuoso Molly Tuttle does the honors Saturday. 8 p.m. June 25-26 at Brooklyn Bowl, 925 Third Ave. N. EDD HURT

auction is available at 32auctions.com/ ALAG2021, and runs June 21 through 26.) All funds raised go to cover the cost of the Act Like a GRRRL program and production. 7:30 p.m. at W.O. Smith Music School, 1125 Eighth Ave. S. AMY STUMPFL

Summer may have just arrived, but participants in Actors Bridge Ensemble’s Act Like a GRRRL program have already developed a unique collection of original works. Created by Actors Bridge producing artistic director Vali Forrister in 2005, Act Like a GRRRL uses autobiographical writing and performance to help female-identifying teens discover their own voices and speak their truth — “both on stage and in life.” The three-week program culminates on Saturday with an in-person screening of a prerecorded performance that includes personal monologues, dances, songs and more. There is a limited number of $15 in-person tickets

THEATER

PHOTO: KIT WOOD

THEATER

and the extraordinary spider who works to save his life. NCT executive artistic director Ernie Nolan directs a terrific cast, including Meggan Utech as Charlotte and Darius Aushay as Wilbur, along with Jennifer Whitcomb-Oliva, James Rudolph, DéYonté Jenkins and Addi King. Visitors are welcome to enjoy a picnic at the farm, either before or after the show. June 26-July 17 at West Glow Farm, 1296 Brush Creek Road, Kingston Springs AMY STUMPFL

NASHVILLE CHILDREN’S THEATRE PRESENTS: CHARLOTTE’S WEB

Exploring tender themes of friendship, sacrifice and the wonders of nature, E.B. White’s beloved novel Charlotte’s Web has charmed generations of young readers for nearly 70 years. But this weekend, the Nashville Children’s Theatre will revisit this classic tale in a whole new way, performing the piece outdoors at an actual working farm. Joseph Robinette’s faithful stage adaptation follows the unlikely friendship of a little pig named Wilbur

available, with priority being given to Actors Bridge friends and family. But you also can catch the performance online via Vimeo. Tickets for the online performance are $5 to $10, and Actors Bridge is also sponsoring a silent auction, which features everything from local art to an astrology reading and a Chattanooga getaway. (The

[NOW IN SESSION]

SUNDAY SCHOOL: LOCAL DISCUSSIONS ABOUT GUARANTEED BASIC INCOME FOR NORTH NASHVILLE

The idea of universal basic income — a guaranteed stipend for citizens — has been batted around for a long time among political thinkers and philosophers. Andrew Yang made it one of his main talking points in his failed bid for the 2020 Democratic presidential nomination, but the stimulus checks and job insecurity of the COVID-19 pandemic have also kept the concept in the popular imagination. On a local level, community project Moving Forward Nashville has been making the case that universal basic income for North Nashville residents can help disrupt poverty in the historically Black area. The group launched a series of discussions called Sunday School alongside Third Man Records, mixing in performances with panel discussions about housing, history and inequality. Past entries have featured speakers like Nashville Economic Justice Alliance organizer Denzel Caldwell, Dr. Learotha Williams and author Caroline Randall Williams, and sets from The Shindellas and The BlackSon. This Sunday’s entry — the third of the sixpart series — is titled “Housing Security: Housing Access through a Guaranteed Income.” Keep an eye on Moving Forward Nashville’s website for updated information: movingnashvilleforward.org/movewithus. 11 a.m. streaming via Third Man Records ALEJANDRO RAMIREZ

[CHE FIGATA]

EXPLORE THE CULTURE OF POSTWAR ROME

As you’ll read in this week’s film section, the Belcourt kicks off its threeweek Fellini retrospective on Friday, showing 11 films by the Italian maestro who brought us La Strada, La Dolce Vita and a treasure trove of other films. Fellini’s influence surpassed the film industry, changing Roman culture as a whole. This month, I suggest doing a deep dive into postwar Roman culture, and you can start with Shawn Levy’s Dolce Vita Confidential: Fellini, Loren, Pucci, Paparazzi, and the Swinging High Life of 1950s Rome. The book, which is available at the Nashville Public Library in print and as an audio book, documents Rome’s rise as a bastion of culture and cool. Not even a decade after Italians shook off Mussolini and Hitler, my people were making movies that rivaled Hollywood and designing clothing that put Paris on notice. The neorealists depicted the early postwar years with startling precision and humanity — see Roberto Rossellini’s

Rome, Open City and Vittorio De Sica’s Bicycle Thieves, to start. Then explore the master of depicting postwar alienation, Michelangelo Antonioni (L’Avventura). As Hollywood got interested, American directors like William Wyler crossed the ocean to get in on that hot Roman action and make Roman Holiday, with zipping motor scooters and icon-inthe-making Audrey Hepburn. But Italy had its own iconic women — like the legends Sophia Loren (see De Sica’s Two Women) and Anna Magnani (Pasolini’s Mamma Roma). An entrepreneur named Giovanni Battista Giorgini appealed to the national pride of the country’s best fashion designers, convincing them to join forces for a runway show that would stun the international press — and Pucci, Fabiani and Fontana became coveted brands first in America and then around Europe. Levy’s book also details scandals galore, like the unsolved mystery of Wilma Montesi, a young woman who was found dead on the beach 20 kilometers south of Rome. And then there’s the notorious striptease in a glitzy nightclub that had the Vatican making

pronouncements (and inspired Fellini’s La Dolce Vita), the endless masquerades of the paparazzi (a word Fellini coined in the same film), the comings and goings and fuckings of actors from around the world, and much more. All of this fits in with Fellini’s work, which was as much a reflection of the city’s people as it was a way for them to reimagine themselves. (Did La Dolce Vita cancel Rome? I think so!) Levy’s book is an excellent starting point for your own Roman holiday — be sure to check out the Belcourt’s Essential Fellini series as you go. ERICA CICCARONE

TELEVISION

BOOKS

EVERGREEN: STUFF YOU CAN DO ANYTIME

[3, 2, 1 — LET’S JAM]

WATCH COWBOY BEBOP

Let’s be honest: Hollywood adaptations have lately been hit-or-miss, especially when it comes to anime. After a controversy over whitewashing BIPOC roles and a lengthy stay in development hell, the critically lauded anime series Cowboy Bebop is receiving the Hollywood treatment, via Netflix. With the announcement of the live-action TV

series arriving later this year, there’s no better time to watch — or rewatch — the original series. For the uninitiated: Cowboy Bebop is set in the distant future and follows the (mis)adventures of a ragtag group of bounty hunters who capture intergalactic criminals. Series director Shinichirō Watanabe is known for his ability to masterfully blend music genres — with Cowboy Bebop, he’s created an incredible jazz soundtrack composed by the brilliant Yoko Kanno. Add to this the wellchoreographed fight scenes, immersive storytelling and memorable characters, and the show is an unforgettable experience packed in a tight 26 episodes. With a talented cast and Kanno returning as a composer, it’s likely that the 2021 series will live up to the legacy of the original. But as Cowboy Bebop’s protagonist Spike Spiegel himself says, “Whatever happens, happens.” Cowboy Bebop is available to stream via Hulu, funimation.com and Adult Swim. KAHWIT TELA

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 31, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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nashvillescene.com | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | NASHVILLE SCENE

POOL TABLE MOVING, INSTALLATION & SERVICE

CRITICS’ PICKS

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STRIKING MATCHES MUSIC

July 3

UPCOMING VIRTUAL EVENTS JANELLE ARTHUR July 4

THURSDAY, JUNE 24 6:00PM

ALKA JOSHI

in conversation with ASHA LEMMIE The Secret Keeper of Jaipur

6:00PM

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 30

TURK PIPKIN

in conversation with NINA CARDONA Willie Nelson’s Letters to America

THE ISSACS July 9

6:00PM

TUESDAY, JULY 6

MARY GAUTHIER

in conversation with ALLISON MOORER Saved by a Song

6:00PM JAMES GREGORY July 10

ALSO PERFORMING Jeff Allen Larry Carlton Mike Farris Farewell Angelina Backroads and Bridges: John Ford Coley, Billy Dean & Tom Wurth Allie Colleen

July 15 July 16-17 July 22 July 29 August 5

CHRISTINA BAKER KLINE

in conversation with JOHN SEARLES The Exiles

6:00PM

THURSDAY, JULY 8

DAVID BELL

in conversation with MARY COBB Kill All Your Darlings

6:00PM

MONDAY, JULY 12

JIMMIE ALLEN August 6

FT Live and Great Performances Sponsored by

615.538.2076 | franklintheatre.com 419 Main St., Franklin, TN 37064

WEDNESDAY, JULY 7

in conversation with MARY BETH ADAIR My Voice is a Trumpet

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SUNDAES, KLYPI, JHENETICS & SGT. LARK

This show is a master class in Nashville’s current experimental music scene — a gathering of some of the city’s most innovative electronic artists, each of whom showcases the different ways electronic music can shine. Sundaes is the nuanced, Moog-loving pop outfit founded by Max Nunes. The band’s latest album, Sundaes Volume 1, was released in April 2020. It’s a nuanced and emotional exploration of the various stages of a relationship — there’s lust (“The First Waltz”), crushes (“Pretty Little Thing”), heartbreak (“Too Much Water”) and hope (“Boyfriend”). Klypi stands proudly on the other side of the spectrum as an unapologetically in-yourface whirlwind of humor, pop and pop art. Earlier this year, Klypi released their debut album Consensual Hits, and it is as much a collection of tongue-in-cheek Keshaflavored anthems about partying as it is a smart exploration of gender and identity. Rounding out the bill is Jhenetics, the local DJ and producer who weaves hip-hop hooks with house music’s entrancing repetition, and Sgt. Lark, whose slick dance music is inspired by Charli XCX and orchestrated by Skylar Tippetts. If you have a pal who thinks all electronic music sounds the same, bring ’em by The East Room on Tuesday and show ’em how Nashville does it. 7:30 p.m. at The East Room, 2412 Gallatin Ave. MEGAN SELING

and events platform 2 L’s on a Cloud, you’ve got a chance Wednesday to see two of the most insightful and inventive MCs working in Music City. Knoxville native Daisha McBride began building her fan base online while still a student at MTSU, and chose to stay in the Midstate after graduation. In the wake of her 2019 debut full-length W.I.L.D. (which stands for “While I Learn and Develop”), the masterful lyricist has dropped two EPs and a small galaxy of singles that showcase her range, from freestyle tracks that harken back to her earliest work to recent single “Throwin’ It Back,” a bounce-flavored piece in which McBride flexes her muscle. Reaux Marquez had a spate of sonically and philosophically rich releases in quick succession over the winter: EPs No Decoys and No Renegades and album No Roads. Over soulful beats, Marquez and a who’s-who of guest Nashville rappers and singers weave together insightful vignettes that all circle back to an African proverb about the fabric of society and the nature of strife: “The child who is not embraced by the village will burn it down to feel its warmth.” DJ Walt will keep the beat rolling between sets of this outdoor show, part of Exit/In’s Out/Back concert series. 7 p.m. behind Exit/In, 2208 Elliston Place STEPHEN TRAGESER DAISHA McBRIDE

WEDNESDAY / 6.30 MUSIC

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[SUNDAE SCHOOL]

[DEEP IN THOUGHT]

HIP-HOP ON ELLISTON FEAT. DAISHA MCBRIDE, REAUX MARQUEZ & DJ WALT

I’d hesitate to say we’re living in a “golden age” of Nashville hip-hop. More than a few of the local artists who’ve recently been recognized far and wide for their great work have been at it for years, and I sincerely hope the critical mass that seems to be building is a foundation for something long-lasting. Thanks to music

NASHVILLE SCENE | JUNE 24 – JUNE 30, 2021 | nashvillescene.com

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