Quick + Easy Knits No. 2: Patterns for Beginners and Beyond

QUICK + EASY

KNITS Patterns for Beginners and Beyond • No. 2

CONTENTS 04 Editor’s Note 06 Overcoming Knitting Insecurities 10 How to Read Knitting Charts

PATTERNS 18 Aventurine Shawl Susanna IC............................. Instructions page 38

21 Coesite Mitts Mone Dräger........................... Instructions page 42

22 Larimar Tee Lana Jois................................ Instructions page 48

25 Corundum Shawl Annika Andrea Wolke.............. Instructions page 52

26 Charoite Wrap Blazenka Simic-Boro............... Instructions page 56

29 Feldspar Tee Hanna Lübben........................ Instructions page 58

30 Axinite Hat Emily Kintigh........................... Instructions page 62

33 Kyanite Cowl Megi Burcl.............................. Instructions page 66

34 Chalcedony Pillow Laura Barker........................... Instructions page 68

37 Dioptase Hat Molly Hackett.......................... Instructions page 72

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WELCOME

WHEN WE LAUNCHED the first iteration of Quick + Easy Knits, we included a survey to gauge the experience level of our readers. While most of the Interweave audience is a pretty knit-savvy bunch, we suspected that these simple, straightforward patterns might appeal to a newer audience: knitters who have finished their first scarves and hats and are looking for what’s next.

And while some of our readers fell into that group (welcome!), the majority of folks downloading the collection had years of knitting experience. If you’re one of those knitters, this probably comes as no surprise to you: We all enjoy simple, relaxing projects. The draw of quick and easy is not reserved for new knitters alone.

With that in mind, we created a second collection of easygoing patterns full of simple knit/purl patterns, garter stitch, and straight­ forward shaping. The mix of tees, shawls, hats, and a pillow (thrown in for good measure) make for great summer knitting projects. And if

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you are a newer knitter looking to expand your skill set, these patterns introduce basic concepts that will set you up for more advanced projects in the future.

As with our first iteration, this issue also includes links to helpful techniques, articles, and more, so if you are trying something for the first time, we’re here to help. For example, a few of the patterns in this issue include graphic knit/purl stitch patterns. The easiest way to represent these stitch patterns is by using charts. We know charts can be intimidating to the uninitiated, which is why we’ve included an article dedicated to reading them. I urge you to give it a try. Once you get the hang of using knitting charts, you’ll never go back.

Wherever you are on your knitting journey, I hope you enjoy these patterns.

Best,

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FEATURE

OVERCOMING KNIT TING INSECURITIES

By Lisa Shroyer

But the truth was, she was actually a super-sharp knitter. She was brand new to knitting and was tackling an advanced technique, one that requires a comfort with yarn and needles and an ability to read the stitches on your needle.

She was also new to reading knitting patterns, so she was struggling with her hands and her mind as she sat there trying to interpret the abbreviations on the printout in front of her.

I pulled my chair closer and quietly helped her over the next 30 minutes, including rewriting the instructions in longhand for her. By the end of the class, she had several inches of brioche fabric. She was not a terrible knitter by a long shot.

What would it mean to be a TERRIBLE KNITTER, anyway? I like to think it refers to the secondary definition of terrible: formidable in nature; exciting extreme alarm or intense fear. Like a 6

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monster in an ancient Greek myth. Like Medusa with yarn balls in her snake hair.

What are some other disparaging remarks knitters make about their work? Let’s run down the list of insecurities all knitters feel at some point . . . and turn them upside down!

1 MY KNITTING IS

too tight.

You’re a newer knitter, and you’re pulling the yarn really taut as you make each stitch. It hurts your hands; it’s also hard to get the needle into the stitches. It makes you slow and clumsy and you get frustrated.

REFRAME IT: Tell yourself, “I’m taking on a totally new skill, and it will take a while before I’m comfortable and adept with it. But eventually, I will be adept with it. GO ME FOR TRYING SOMETHING NEW.”

Getty Images/Alina Kvaratskhelia

ON A KNITTING RETREAT A FEW YEARS AGO, I was sitting through an introduction-to-brioche class and noticed the woman to my left struggling with the stitches. With two colors of wool spiraling tightly around her needles at odd angles, she couldn’t even get her needle tip into a stitch to work it. She sighed heavily and said, “I’m a terrible knitter.”

FEATURE

Fair Isle knitting can be hard to see in low contrast colors.

THIS SWEATER DOESN’T LOOK

good on me.

Nancy Shroyer

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wrong colors.

You did all that work and you don’t like it.

You feel like you must have bad taste.

That’s a sad feeling, and I’m sorry! We’ve all been there.

REFRAME IT: It’s not that YOU don’t look good, it’s that there’s some element of sweatermaking and tailoring that you haven’t mastered yet. Put it away for now, and when you’re ready, take it out, put it on, and study what isn’t working.

Learn from that—what can you do next time to prevent the problem? Can this sweater be undone and salvaged if you address that part?

I CHOSE THE

REFRAME IT: Colors do weird things once you knit them together, especially in Fair Isle patterns. You took a color risk and SCIENCE happened. Because there is a science to combining colors, swatching is really key to success. Try out other color combinations until you find something you love.

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I’m not good enough TO FOLLOW THIS PATTERN.

Getty Images/ Fernando Trabanco Fotografía

That lace shawl looks amazing and you want to knit it.

But it also looks HARD. And you haven’t knit anything that complex yet. You feel intimidated and inadequate.

REFRAME IT: What does the pattern entail? Buy the pattern. Read through it. Study the charts. Do you understand all the terms and symbols? The steps being described? Are the techniques beyond your skill level?

Does the combination of all the techniques and the scope of the project make it hard, but technically within

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your abilities? Break down the things that make a project “hard” and determine if you’re up for the challenge or need to learn more skills first. It’s not about your inherent ability; it’s about where you are on your knitting journey and how crazy/brave you are about trying something that pushes your limits.

BE A LITTLE CRAZY. It’s just knitting.

The Dayflower Shawl by Nancy Lekx, published in Interweave Knits Spring 2021. It looks complicated, but just take it stitch by stitch!

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I HOLD MY YARN

funny.

You’re at knit night and someone comments on your knitting style. Looking around at everyone else, you suddenly feel like a weirdo.

REFRAME IT: There is seriously no wrong way to knit. End of story.

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WHY CAN’T I KNIT

faster?

Susie from church group KNITS SO FAST, and it makes you feel inadequate.

REFRAME IT: Unless you’re competing in a speedknitting competition or working to a deadline, there’s absolutely no need to knit fast. Fast knitting is not fun.

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7 I never finish ANYTHING.

This is my knitting insecurity. I’ve managed two sweaters in four years and maybe a hat. The rest of my unfinished projects are languishing in bags around the house.

REFRAME IT: Knitting for me is about process.

Completing a project is not a marker of my love of knitting or the joy it brings me. It’s okay to graze on projects. It’s a hobby, not a job (most of the time).

WHAT OTHER INSECURITIES have you felt about your knitting? Are your purls wonky? Your cables sloppy along one edge? Your gauge always off?

The solution is simple: Just keep knitting. Try more tricks. Read more technique books. Take more classes. Keep learning. Keep trying. But don’t forget—keep enjoying the journey.

We’re all bad at things before we’re good at them.

It’s how the universe works. Welcome to the journey of mastering your craft! ■

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Palomar in Cotton Supreme DK from the ebook: Seaside Supreme www.universalyarn.com fine fibers available at your local yarn shop & online

THE BASICS

HOW TO READ KNIT TING CHARTS

by Roxanne Richardson THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR KNITTED STITCH patterns can be presented in either written or charted form. When instructions are written out, the stitch pattern of the fabric on the needles is gradually revealed as the knitting progresses— stitch by stitch and row by row. When the instructions are charted, symbols that represent the stitches are arranged in a grid in such a way that they correspond to the placement of the stitches of the pattern. Because the entire stitch pattern (or at least a single repeated motif) is presented in its entirety, charted instructions provide immediate context for the pattern, no matter which row you are working at any given time. This context makes it easier to keep your place while knitting and makes it easier to identify mistakes—whether in your knitting or on the

chart itself. This is one reason why many knitters prefer charts over written instructions.

If you’re new to charts, it may take a little practice to learn how to read them. In this article, we’ll explore the basics of reading charts. We’ll look at the differences between reading a chart that is worked in rounds and a chart that is worked back and forth in rows (or “flat”). We’ll also talk about the importance of learning how to “read” your knitting—an essential skill that will make using charts even easier.

A knitting chart is a visual representation of the stitch pattern, which can be seen by comparing the swatch in Photo 1 to Chart 1, where the sailboat image is clearly identifiable in both.

PHOTO 1

CHART 1 19

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1 11 sts k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS

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pattern repeat

THE BASICS

The chart depicts the right side—or “public” side—of the knitted fabric. And because the right side of the work is represented, a chart will look the same regardless of whether it is worked in rounds or worked flat (although there may be stitches outside the pattern repeat when working back and forth).

symbol. This will help you remember what the symbol means as you work from the chart, rather than having to constantly refer to the key.

THE CHART GRID A symbol may be confined to

RIGHT CABLE

one square in the grid or span several squares. For example, a

ANATOMY OF A CHART

CLIMBING LADDERS

stitch will fill one square because only one stitch is worked.

THE CHART SYMBOLS The symbols in a chart represent the action that is required to create a particular type of stitch.

Even though there is no universal standard for chart symbols, they should at least bear some resemblance to the actual stitch as it is viewed on the right side of the work. Figures 1 and 2 show the difference in appearance between a knit stitch and a purl stitch and the symbols that are often used to represent them. A knit stitch is smooth and is usually represented by a blank square or a vertical line. The symbol for a purl stitch will usually mimic the “bump” that is created when the top of the stitch in the row below the new stitch on the needle comes to the front of the work.

FIGURE 1

symbol for a knit stitch or purl

FIGURE 2

A symbol for a cable cross will span two or more squares, depending on the total number of stitches in the cable. However,

16 sts

A cable symbol will span several squares.

the number of squares allotted for the symbol isn’t necessarily an indication of the number of stitches that are worked from the left needle. Rather, it’s an indication of the number of stitches that are added to the right needle once the stitch is complete. For example, a k2tog symbol will appear in a single square even though two stitches are worked from the left needle, because only

A k2tog symbol appears in one square because only one stitch will remain.

41 sts

one stitch will remain on the right needle after the decrease is worked. And when a yarnover increase is worked, no stitch will be worked from the left needle, but one stitch will be added to the right needle when the yarn is draped over the needle, so the yarnover symbol (usually a circle) or

or

KNIT STITCH

PURL STITCH

When you encounter a new chart symbol, take some time to understand why this symbol was chosen to represent this action/result. After you work the technique, look at the result below your right needle and compare that result to the

will be shown in a single square.

THE CHART ROWS Each horizontal row of a knitting chart corresponds to a row of knitting. The chart is read from bottom to top, just as the knitting progresses from the cast-on to the bind-off. When you work back and forth in rows, the first stitch of every row is worked into the last stitch of the www.Interweave.com

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preceding 7 row. Thus, right-side rows of the chart are read from 5 right to left and wrong-side 4 3 rows are read from left to right 2 1 (and working the symbols as 11 sts indicated for wrong-side rows).

Usually, right-side rows will be Row numbers marked by odd numbers on the for wrong-side rows will be on right-hand side of the chart, the left-hand side and wrong-side rows will be of the chart marked by even numbers on the left-hand side of the chart.

When you knit in rounds with the right side of the work always facing, you will read all the chart rows from right to left. When a chart is worked in rounds, the row numbers will usually all be on the right-hand side of the chart. (If you are a left-handed knitter who works stitches from left to right off the right needle, you will read rightside rows of the chart from left to right.)

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THE CHART KEY Charts should always be accompanied by a key that describes how to work the stitch (or stitches) that each symbol stands for. As we stated earlier, most chart symbols will bear some resemblance to the stitch they are representing, as the stitch will appear on the right side of the work. Thus, after working a few charts, you should be able to read them without referring to the key. Even so, it’s always a good idea to check the key before working a chart for the first time in case the chart has symbols that

Sample chart key.

Note that some key symbols have different definitions for right-side and wrong-side rows.

k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS 2

(knit into front and purl into back) of same st

2

(purl into front and knit into back) of same st pattern repeat

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are unfamiliar to you, or if the designer has not used a standard charting convention.

The symbols for a chart that is worked in rounds will only describe what to do on right-side rows because every row of the chart is worked with the right side facing. The symbols for a chart that is worked flat will describe what to do on both right-side and wrong-side rows. A single symbol in the key may have two definitions if it falls on both right-side and wrong-side rows.

It’s not unusual for a chart to be worked both in rounds and back and forth in rows within the same project. In this case, some rows that were worked as right-side rows in the circular section of the project will have to be worked as wrongside rows in the section of the project that is worked flat.

THE CHART REPEATS In written instructions, the repeated portion on any given row will usually be marked by asterisks, semicolons, or brackets. The rows are independent of one another, meaning that a repeated section on one row may have more or fewer stitches than a repeated section on another row. With charts, an entire motif that is repeated horizontally will be marked by colored lines, highlighted squares, or brackets below the chart (or some combination of these). Unlike repeats in written instructions, the size and placement of a chart repeat is usually determined by the largest repeat on any given row (Chart 2).

Any stitches outside the marked area of the chart repeat will be worked only once (Chart 3).

If a chart is worked across an entire row, the number of stitches on the needle must be a multiple of the number of stitches in the repeat, plus any stitches outside the repeat. To work a chart that has stitches before and after the repeat, work the stitches before the repeat once, then repeat the stitches inside the marked area until the number of stitches on your left needle equals the number of stitches on the chart after

READING A CHART WORKED FLAT

the repeat (making sure to count the stitches that will be used, not just the number of boxes), then work the last stitches of the chart.

When working a chart flat, additional stitches are often added outside the repeat to give the pattern a certain appearance at the beginning and end of the row, and/or to make the pattern symmetrical. As mentioned earlier, the stitches outside the repeat are worked only once. Chart 3 will be worked over a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 4 additional stitches (6 + 4, 12 + 4, 18 + 4, 24 + 4, 30 + 4, etc.). With this chart, the 4 extra stitches are divided equally on each side of the repeat (but this won’t always be the case). Row 1 is a rightside row and will be worked as follows: K2, *k2, p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2. (In written instructions, this row would probably be simplified to read like this: K4, *p2, k4; repeat from * to end.)

Because we’re working back and forth, Row 2 is a wrong-side row and will be worked as follows (using the same pattern repeat as shown on the chart): P2, *p2, k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. And just as we simplified Row 1 when writing the instructions out, we can do the same with Row 2: P4, *k2, p4; repeat from * to end. Notice that this wrong-side row has purl stitches where Row 1 has knit stitches, and vice versa, even though both rows look the same on the chart.

Now that we know some of the basic rules about reading charts, let’s see how these rules can be applied to actual charts. (Note: The following examples assume that the chart is worked as an allover pattern.)

MECHANICS OF READING A CHART READING A CHART WORKED IN ROUNDS Chart 2 has a 6-stitch repeat, with no stitches outside the repeat, so it needs to be worked over a multiple of 6 stitches (6, 12, 18, 24, 30, etc.). Row 1 will be worked like this: *K2, p2, k2; repeat from * to end. Because we’re working in rounds, Rows 2, 3, and 4 of the chart will be worked exactly like Row 1. Rows 5, 6, 7, and 8 will be worked like this: *K1, p4, k1; repeat from * to end. Rows 9 and 10 of the chart contain only purl stitches. After Row 10 is complete, go back to Row 1 and work the next 10 rows of the chart as before.

Chart 2 is worked in rounds over a multiple of 6 stitches.

CHART 2

CHART 3 9 7 5 3 1

6-st rep

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1 6-st rep

knit

k on RS; p on WS

purl

p on RS; k on WS

pattern repeat

pattern repeat

Chart 3 is worked flat over a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 4 stitches.

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Forsythia

by Elizabeth Smith

70% merino wool, 30% silk 150 yds/50g

p. 888.566.9970 - info@fairmountfibers.com - www.fairmountfibers.com

TIPS FOR KEEPING YOUR PLACE WHEN KNITTING FROM A CHART

PHOTO 2

LEARN TO READ YOUR KNITTING It seems strange to say, but one of the best ways to learn how to knit from a chart is to learn how to knit without the chart, or at least without having to refer to it on every row. And this requires an understanding of the relationship between the stitches shown on the chart and the stitches you see in the knitted fabric.

This is known as being able to “read” your knitting. For example, we saw earlier the difference in appearance between a knit stitch and a purl stitch. But let’s explore this difference in more detail.

Knit stitches look like Vs.

PHOTO 3

A knit stitch is created by drawing a loop from back to front through a loop on the left needle, and a purl stitch is created by drawing a loop from front to back through a loop on the left needle. Because the action occurs in the loop below the needle, that’s where we have to look to see the type of stitch that was created. In Photo 2, we can see that the first two stitches under the left needle are knit stitches because each stitch resembles a V. And if we look at the first two stitches under the left needle in Photo 3, we can see the telltale bump that indicates that these are purl stitches. Now let’s look at how this understanding of stitch appearance can help when we’re working from a chart.

CHART 2 Remember that when working Chart 2 circularly, Rows 2–4 of the chart are worked exactly the same as Row 1. This means that once Row 1 has been worked, all you have to do is maintain the knit-and-purl pattern as it was established on the first row by working the stitches as 6-st rep they appear. Thus, if you see a stitch under the left needle that looks like a knit stitch, you will knit it; and if you see a purl bump under the needle, you will purl the stitch.

This same principle of working stitches as they appear applies when working back and forth in rows. It doesn’t matter how the stitches were worked on the right-side row; it only matters that the stitches match on every row (Photo 4).

Purl stitches look like bumps.

PHOTO 4 9 7 5 3 1

Working the stitches on Rows 2–4 of Chart 2 “as they appear” applies even when working on wrong-side rows.

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When we get to Row 5 of Chart 2, we will no longer be working the stitches exactly as they appear under the left needle. However, we know from the chart that the only difference is that one knit stitch on each side of the two-stitch purl column is now a purl stitch. If we look at the four purl stitches on the right needle in Photo 5, we can see that the first and last purl stitches have been worked above a knit stitch. These are stitches 2 and 5 of the chart. And in Photo 6, we can see that the four-stitch knit columns are now two-stitch knit columns. As before, once the new pattern on Row 5 has been established, Rows 6–8 can be worked by looking at the stitches and working them as they appear. Rows 9 and 10 will be worked by either purling two rounds if working circularly, or purling Row 9 on a right-side row and knitting Row 10 on a wrong-side row.

PHOTO 5

CHART CHART2 2 99 77 55 33

Note where the stitches switch from knit to purl.

11 6-st 6-strep rep

PHOTO 6

USE STITCH MARKERS Another method to make sure you are tracking the pattern correctly is to use stitch markers to signify each repeat. If we get to the end of a repeat and run out of stitches or have stitches left over, we know there has been an error somewhere between the markers, and we can fix it by unknitting to the point where we made the mistake. Using stitch markers to separate pattern repeats is especially helpful when establishing the first row of the pattern or when the repeat includes a large number of stitches.

Charts may take a bit of time to get used to, but they are incredibly useful for communicating a lot of information quicker than written instructions. Use the charts in this article to practice, both for flat knitting and knitting in rounds. ■

The four-stitch knit column has become a two-stitch knit column.

PRACTICE WITH: • Coesite Mitts • Charoite Wrap

ROXANNE RICHARDSON is a certified master handknitter

who lives, designs, and teaches in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Find her weekly videos on YouTube at www.youtube.com/user/roxmpls.

• Chalcedony Pillow LEARN MORE: MOUSE-POINTER Understanding Cable Chart Symbols play-circle Knitting Charts Video Download

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AVENTURINE SHAWL Susanna IC

Garter stitch is sometimes overlooked as being just a beginner stitch, but it can create some of the most beautiful projects. Take the Aventurine Shawl— squishy garter stitch looks both cozy and elegant with the addition of eyelet lace.

YARN Valley Yarns Worthington, distributed by WEBS PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 38

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COESITE MIT TS Mone Dräger

The Coesite Mitts are worked in the round, starting at the cuff, and include a thumb gusset for an excellent fit. Texture comes in the form of an allover zigzag pattern. If you’re new to reading stitch patterns from charts, check out our tech article, How to Read Knitting Charts (page 10).

YARN The Yarn Collective Fleurville 4 Ply,

distributed by LoveCrafts PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 42

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L ARIMAR TEE Lana Jois

Vertical lines of knit stitches give the simply constructed Larimar Tee a sophisticated look. The identical front and back are worked separately, then seamed together. You’ll get some practice picking up stitches around the armholes: A thin trim of ribbing is added at the end.

YARN Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, distributed by

Yarnspirations PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 48

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CORUNDUM SHAWL Annika Andrea Wolke

If you can increase, decrease, and join a new ball of yarn, you can make the Corundum Shawl! Gradient blocks of color are broken up with sections of eyelet lace that ease the transition from one shade to the next. This shawl starts small at the center neck and increases outward to the points.

YARN Knit Picks Comfy Worsted PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 52

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CHAROITE WR AP Blazenka Simic-Boro

There’s something so satisfying about knitting lace in bulky yarn. The Charoite Wrap is worked in rows from end to end, with a serpentine lace pattern winding its way up the center. Finish off this quick knit with lavish tassels.

YARN Lion Brand Yarn Hue + Me PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 56

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FELDSPAR TEE Hanna Lübben

Worked in the round from the bottom up to the underarms, the beginner-friendly Feldspar Tee uses garter ridges set against stockinette fabric to create subtle stripes. The addition of sweet eyelet lace at the hem, neckline, and cuffs gives the whole top an airy feel.

YARN Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 58

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A XINITE HAT Emily Kintigh

Hats are great projects for learning new techniques, and the Axinite Hat is no exception.

Practice simple lace knitting, crown shaping, and working a small circumference in the round as you complete this perfect warm-weather accessory.

YARN Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton Comfort PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 62

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K YANITE COWL Megi Burcl

The Kyanite Cowl combines the functional appeal of a cowl with the drapey goodness of your favorite shawl. The cowl begins with a long, narrow triangle that transitions into a parallelogram. The end of the cowl is twisted before joining, creating the effect of a Möbius cowl with a long tail.

YARN Trendsetter Yarns Tiger PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 66

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CHALCEDONY PILLOW Laura Barker

Give your living room a refresh with this cozy pillow. Start by working the triangular flap back and forth using simple increases, then cast on stitches and work the body of the pillow in the round. Simple knit and purl stitches give the Chalcedony Pillow its touchable texture.

YARN Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 68

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DIOPTASE HAT Molly Hackett

If you love a classic ribbed beanie but are looking for something a little more unique, try the Dioptase Hat. Worked from the bottom up, this hat incorporates slipped stitches into the ribbed pattern to give the hat a little added texture.

YARN Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend, distributed

by Fairmount Fibers PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS page 72

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AVENTURINE SHAWL Susanna IC DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

3

FINISHED SIZE 84" wide and 29" tall.

YARN Valley Yarns Worthington

(50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 174 yd [159 m]/13/4 oz [50 g]): #13 Arctic, 6 balls.

Yarn distributed by WEBS. NEEDLES Size 7 (4.5 mm): 40" circular (cir).

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle.

GAUGE 17 sts and 34 rows = 4" in garter st.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES

TECHNIQUES TO KNOW K2tog Make 1 Right and Left Ssk Weave in ends

• This triangular shawl is worked from the center neck down and outward to the points. Double increases are worked on the right side at the center and along both edges. After the solid body is finished, the garter-based eyelet lace is worked in increasing sequences with garter stitch sections in between.

• A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Yarnover  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

STITCH GUIDE KNIT, YO, KNIT (KOK) (K1, yo, k1) in same st—2 sts inc’d.

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GARTER STITCH PATTERN

EYELET BORDER PATTERN

Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k1, sl m, KOK, knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before m, KOK, sl m, k1, yo, k1—8 sts inc’d.

Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k1, sl m, KOK, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k2, **yo, ssk; rep from ** to 1 st before m, KOK, sl m, k1, yo, k1—6 sts inc’d.

Row 2 (WS) K1, drop yo, knit to last 2 sts, drop yo, k1—2 sts dec’d.

EYELET LACE PATTERN Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k1, sl m, KOK, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, M1R, sl m, k1, M1L, k1, **yo, ssk; rep from ** to 1 st before m, KOK, sl m, k1, yo, k1—8 sts inc’d.

Row 2 (WS) K1, drop yo, k1, sl m, k1, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 3 sts before m, k3, sl m, k2, **yo, ssk; rep from ** to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k1, drop yo, k1—2 sts dec’d.

Row 2 (WS) K1, drop yo, k1, sl m, k1, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sl m, k1, **yo, ssk; rep from ** to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k1, drop yo, k1—2 sts dec’d.

BORDER GARTER STITCH PATTERN Row 1 (RS) K1, yo, k1, sl m, KOK, knit to m, sl m, knit to 1 st before m, KOK, sl m, k1, yo, k1—6 sts inc’d.

Row 2 (WS) K1, drop yo, knit to last 2 sts, drop yo, k1—2 sts dec’d.

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39

SHAWL CO 3 sts. Knit 1 WS row.

Row 1 (RS) [KOK (see Stitch Guide)] 3 times—9 sts.

Row 2 (WS) K5, place marker (pm), k4.

Row 3 K2, KOK, k1, sl m, k2, KOK, k2—13 sts.

Row 4 Knit.

Row 5 K1, yo, k1, pm, KOK, k3, M1R, sl m, k1, M1L, k3, KOK, pm, k1, yo, k1—21 sts.

Row 6 K1, drop yo, knit to last 2 sts, drop yo, k1—19 sts rem.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt (see Stitch Guide) 51 times—325 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt (see Stitch Guide) once—331 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt 5 times—361 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt once—367 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt once—373 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt once—379 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt 5 times—409 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt once—415 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt once—421 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt once—427 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt once—433 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Lace patt once—439 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Garter st patt 5 times—469 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Border patt (see Stitch Guide) once—473 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Border Garter st patt (see Stitch Guide) once—477 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Border patt once—481 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Border Garter st patt once—485 sts.

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•

QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Border patt once— 489 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Border Garter st patt once—493 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Border patt once— 497 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Border Garter st patt once—501 sts.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Eyelet Border patt once— 505 sts.

With WS facing, BO all sts as foll: *K2tog, k1, return 2 sts to left needle; rep from * to end—2 sts rem. K2tog—1 st rem. Fasten off last st.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■ SUSANNA IC has an extensive collection of studio-arts

and art-history degrees, as well as a rather large yarn stash. She lives in Maryland with her husband and two sons. Find Susanna on Ravelry, Instagram, Facebook, and her website, www.ArtQualia.com.

Next row (RS) Knit, removing all m.

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41

COESITE MIT TS Mone Dräger DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

1

FINISHED SIZE 53/4 (63/4, 8)" hand circumference and 61/2 (71/4, 81/4)" tall.

Sample shown measures 63/4".

YARN The Yarn Collective Fleurville 4 Ply (100% Merino wool; 382 yd [350 m]/31/2 oz [100 g]): #604 Rose, 1 skein. Yarn distributed

by LoveCrafts.

NEEDLES Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of double-

pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Markers (m); stitch holder;

tapestry needle.

GAUGE 32 sts and 57 rnds = 4" in Zigzag

patt.  For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES TECHNIQUES TO KNOW

• These mitts are worked in the round from the cuff to the top, with a thumb gusset.

Backward-loop cast-on K2tog Make 1 Right and Left Pick up stitches Ssk

STITCH GUIDE TWISTED RIB (multiple of 3 sts) Rnd 1 *K1tbl, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnd 1 for patt.

Weave in ends  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

LEFT MITT CO 45 (54, 63) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in Twisted Rib (see Stitch Guide) for 20 rnds.

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43

UPPER HAND

Next rnd Knit.

Work Rnds 4–12 (1–12, 1–12) of Zigzag chart, then work Rnds 1–12 of chart once.

THUMB GUSSET Next rnd Work Rnd 1 of Left Thumb Gusset chart over 18 sts (inc’d to 20 sts), pm, work Rnd 1 of Zigzag chart to end.

Cont in patt through Rnd 24 (27, 33) of Left Thumb Gusset chart—61 (72, 85) sts; 34 (36, 40) sts before m; Rnd 12 (3, 9) of Zigzag chart is complete.

Work 2 rnds even, working first chart rep with 6 sts in St st rather than 4 sts.

Dec rnd Work 3 (6, 0) sts in patt, k2tog, work in patt to end—46 (55, 64) sts rem.

Work 2 rnds even, working first chart rep with 5 sts in St st rather than 4 sts.

ZIGZAG

Next rnd Work Rnd 1 (4, 10) of Zigzag chart over 2 (5, 5) sts, place next 16 (18, 22) sts on holder for thumb, using the backward-loop method, CO 2 sts, beg with st 3 (6, 6) of chart, work Zigzag chart to end—47 (56, 65) sts rem.

knit

11

purl

9 7 5 3 1 9-st rep

MR

M1R

ML

M1L no stitch pattern repeat

LEFT THUMB GUSSET end size 8"

33 31 29

end size 6¾"

27 25

end size 5¾"

23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 18 sts to 34 (36, 40) sts

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

Dec rnd Work 6 (3, 3) sts in patt, k2tog, work in patt to end—45 (54, 63) sts rem.

Work even in patt for 9 (15, 21) more rnds, ending with Rnd 4 (1, 1) of chart, or until piece measures 3/4" less than desired finished length.

TOP EDGING Next rnd Knit.

Work in Twisted Rib for 6 rnds. BO all sts.

RIGHT MITT CO 45 (54, 63) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in Twisted Rib for 20 rnds.

Next rnd Knit.

Work Rnds 10–12 (7–12, 7–12) of Zigzag chart, then work Rnds 1–12 of chart once, then work Rnds 1–6 of chart once.

THUMB GUSSET Next rnd Work Rnd 1 of Right Thumb Gusset chart over 18 sts (inc’d to 20 sts), pm, work Rnd 7 of Zigzag chart to end.

Cont in patt through Rnd 24 (27, 33) of Right Thumb Gusset chart—61 (72, 85) sts; 34 (36, 40) sts before m; Rnd 6 (9, 3) of Zigzag chart is complete.

Next rnd Work Rnd 7 (10, 4) of Zigzag chart over 8 (5, 5) sts, place next 16 (18, 22) sts on holder for thumb, using the backward-loop method, CO 2 sts, beg with st 9 (6, 6) of chart, work Zigzag chart to end—47 (56, 65) sts rem.

UPPER HAND Work 2 rnds even, working first chart rep with 6 sts in St st rather than 4 sts.

Dec rnd Work 7 (4, 10) sts in patt, ssk, work in patt to end—46 (55, 64) sts rem.

RIGHT THUMB GUSSET end size 8"

33 31 29

end size 6¾"

27 25

end size 5¾"

23 21 19 17

knit

15

purl

13

MR

M1R

11

ML

M1L

9 7

no stitch

5

pattern repeat

3 1 18 sts to 34 (36, 40) sts

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45

Work 2 rnds even, working first chart rep with 5 sts in St st rather than 4 sts.

Dec rnd Work 3 (6, 6) sts in patt, ssk, work in patt to end—45 (54, 63) sts rem.

Work even in patt for 9 (15, 21) more rnds, ending with Rnd 10 (7, 7) of chart, or until piece measures 3/4" less than desired finished length.

TOP EDGING Next rnd Knit.

Work in Twisted Rib for 6 rnds. BO all sts.

THUMB Return 16 (18, 22) held sts to needles.

Next rnd Pick up and knit 2 (3, 2) sts along CO at crook of thumb, knit to end—18 (21, 24) sts total.

Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 6 (7, 8) rnds. Work in Twisted Rib for 3 rnds. BO all sts.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. ■ MONE DRÄGER lives in a village in Germany and loves

to craft and be creative. She can’t imagine a day without knitting, and she enjoys playing with colors and stitch patterns. Find her on Ravelry and social media as monemade.

L ARIMAR TEE Lana Jois DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

3

FINISHED SIZE 321/2 (351/2, 38, 41, 44, 50, 521/2,

581/2, 611/2)" circumference at underarm. Top shown measures 41"; shown on a 34" dress form with 7" of positive ease.

YARN Bernat Softee Baby Cotton

(60% cotton, 40% acrylic; 254 yd [232 m]/ 41/4 oz [120 g]): #52002 Sand, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins. Yarn distributed by Yarnspirations.

NEEDLES Size 6 (4 mm): straight and set of

double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Marker (m); tapestry needle.

GAUGE 22 sts and 24 rows = 4" in k1, p3 rib.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES TECHNIQUES TO KNOW Bind off Mattress stitch Pick up stitches

• The front and back of this pullover are worked separately back and forth from the bottom up. After the shoulders and sides are seamed, stitches for the armhole trim are picked up around the armhole and worked in the round from the top down.

Weave in ends  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

BACK CO 89 (97, 105, 113, 121, 137, 145, 161, 169) sts.

Next row (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Next row (WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep last 2 rows once more.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

E

F

D B C

FRONT & BACK

A

A: 173/4 (191/2, 21, 221/2, 241/4, 271/2, 29, 321/4, 333/4)" B: 161/4 (173/4, 19, 201/2, 22, 25, 261/4, 291/4, 303/4)" C: 151/2" D: 5 (51/4, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 71/4, 8, 81/2, 9)" E: 4 (43/4, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 8, 81/2, 93/4, 101/4)" F: 8 (8, 81/4, 81/2, 9, 9, 91/2, 10, 10)"

FIRST SECTION Next row (RS) *K1, p7; rep from * to last st, k1.

Next row (WS) P1, *k7, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 9 (91/4, 91/2, 10, 10, 101/4, 11, 111/2, 12)" from CO, ending with a WS row.

SECOND SECTION Next row (RS) *K1, p3; rep from * to last st, k1.

Next row (WS) P1, *k3, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 18 (181/4, 181/2, 19, 191/2, 201/4, 21, 211/2, 22)" from CO, ending with a WS row.

THIRD SECTION Next row (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Next row (WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 201/2 (203/4, 21, 211/2, 22, 223/4, 231/2, 24, 241/2)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Loosely BO all sts in patt. www.Interweave.com

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49

FRONT Work as for back.

FINISHING With WS facing, sew shoulder seams (so that ridge from seam shows on RS of piece), leaving center 8 (8, 81/4, 81/2, 9, 9, 91/2, 10, 10)" unsewn for neck. Using a 1/2-st seam allowance, sew side seams, leaving 5 (51/4, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 71/4, 8, 81/2, 9)" unsewn for armholes.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

ARMHOLE TRIM With dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 58 (62, 64, 70, 76, 84, 94, 100, 106) sts evenly spaced around armhole opening. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2 rnds. BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends.

Block to measurements. ■ LANA JOIS is happiest when knitting lace, but she is

always experimenting with technique and construction.

Her work has appeared in Interweave Knits, Pom Pom Quarterly, Wool Studio, and Twist Collective. Find her designs on Ravelry.

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51

CORUNDUM SHAWL Annika Andrea Wolke DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

4

FINISHED SIZE 54" wide and 23" tall.

YARN Knit Picks Comfy Worsted (75% Pima cotton, 25% acrylic; 109 yd [100 m]/13/4 oz [50 g]): #1054 Whisker (light gray; A) and #K238 Hawk (dark gray; B), 1 skein each; #5606 Peony (mauve; C), #6111 Rosehip (dark pink; D), and #B982 Flamingo (light pink; E), 2 skeins each.

NEEDLES Size 9 (5.5 mm): 40" circular (cir).

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle.

GAUGE 17 sts and 32 rows = 4" in garter st.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

TECHNIQUES TO KNOW Add new yarn Bind off K1f&b

NOTES • This triangular shawl is worked from the center neck down and outward to the points.

• A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

K2tog Weave in ends Yarnover  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

STITCH GUIDE GARTER INC ROW K1, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before m, k1f&b, sl m, k8, sl m, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—4 sts inc’d.

EYELET INC ROW K1, k1f&b, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1f&b, sl m, k8, sl m, k1f&b, **yo, k2tog; rep from ** to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times—70 sts.

Break A; join B.

SHAWL

Next row (RS) Work Eyelet Inc Row (see Stitch Guide)—74 sts.

With A, CO 12 sts.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) K1, k1f&b, place marker (pm), k8, pm, k1f&b, k1—14 sts.

Next row (RS) Work Garter Inc Row—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) Work Garter Inc Row (see Stitch Guide)—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times—130 sts.

Break B; join C.

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53

Next row (RS) Work Eyelet Inc Row—134 sts.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) Work Garter Inc Row—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times—190 sts.

Break C; join D. Next row (RS) Work Eyelet Inc Row—194 sts.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) Work Garter Inc Row—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times—250 sts.

Break D; join E. Next row (RS) Work Eyelet Inc Row—254 sts.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) Work Garter Inc Row—4 sts inc’d.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 13 more times—310 sts.

Loosely BO all sts.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■ ANNIKA ANDREA WOLKE is a knitting designer

with an ever-expanding collection of knitted shawls.

Originally from Germany, she now lives in Yorkshire, England. Annika learned to knit at university, and since then, she has hardly been seen without knitting needles in hand. Find her designs on Ravelry.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

ENTER TO WIN THE

QUICK + EASY KNITS GIVEAWAY

Win a Yarn Pack

Chalcedony Pillow

Feldspar Tee

Quick + Easy Knits is back with more patterns you’ll love!

To celebrate our new patterns, we are giving one lucky winner a yarn pack from our sponsors, Plymouth Yarn Co. and Universal Yarn. You’ll get enough yarn to make two of the outstanding patterns shown.

Enter to Win at Interweave.com/go/quick-easy-giveaway Sponsored by:

Giveaway runs from 6/23/2021 to 7/23/2021. Please visit our site for full rules and restrictions. Open to US residents only, void where prohibited.

CHAROITE WR AP Blazenka Simic-Boro DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

5

FINISHED SIZE 12" wide and 69" long, excluding tassels.

YARN Lion Brand Yarn Hue + Me (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 137 yd [125 m]/ 43⁄8 oz [125 g]): #144 Haze, 4 skeins.

NEEDLES Size 11 (8 mm). Adjust needle size

if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS 6" piece of cardboard; tapestry

needle.

GAUGE 9 sts and 13 rows = 4" in St st.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES • This wrap is worked back and forth from end to end.

TECHNIQUES TO KNOW

WRAP

Bind off

CO 41 sts. Work Rows 1–28 of Climbing Ladders chart 8 times. Loosely BO all sts.

K2tog Ssk Tassels

FINISHING

Weave in ends

Weave in ends. Block.

Yarnover

TASSELS (Make 8)

 Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

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•

QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

Wrap yarn around a 6" piece of cardboard 15 times. Cut a short length of yarn and tie loops tog at top, then cut loops at bottom. Cut another piece of yarn. Tie it about 3/4" below top knot and

CLIMBING LADDERS 27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 41 sts k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS yo k2tog ssk sl 1 pwise wyf on RS; sl 1 kwise wyb on WS

wrap tightly around loops. Knot securely and pull end to center of tassel. Trim tassel evenly.

Attach 4 tassels evenly spaced along each short end of wrap. ■ BLAZENKA SIMIC-BORO has been designing and

making home décor, clothes, and accessories for years. She has been published in Crochet Now, The Crochetist, I Like Crochet, Knit Now, and Happily Hooked.

Find her designs on Ravelry and Instagram, and at www.blagecrochetdesign.etsy.com.

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57

FELDSPAR TEE Hanna Lübben DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

3

FINISHED SIZE 361/4 (40, 433/4, 471/2, 511/2, 551/4, 59, 623/4)" circumference at underarm.

Tee shown measures 40"; shown on a 34" dress form with 6" of positive ease.

YARN Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop

(50% cotton, 50% bamboo; 292 yd [266 m]/31/2 oz [100 g]): #126 Winter Blue, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) balls.

NEEDLES Size 6 (4 mm): 24–40" circular (cir),

depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Marker (m); stitch holders;

tapestry needle.

GAUGE 21 sts and 32 rnds = 4" in St st.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES TECHNIQUES TO KNOW Bind off K2tog Long-tail cast-on Pick up stitches Three-needle bind-off Weave in ends Yarnover  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

• This top is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth. After the shoulders are joined, stitches for the sleeves are picked up around the armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round from the top down.

BODY With cir needle and using the long-tail method, CO 190 (210, 230, 250, 270, 290, 310, 330) sts.

D

E

C

F G

BODY B

A A: 361/4 (40, 433/4, 471/2, 511/2, 551/4, 59, 623/4)" B: 93/4 (93/4, 10, 10, 101/4, 101/4, 101/2, 101/2)" C: 51/4 (51/4, 53/4, 61/4, 71/4, 73/4, 81/2, 81/2)" D: 41/4 (41/2, 51/4, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 63/4, 71/4)" E: 81/2 (91/4, 10, 103/4, 111/2, 121/2, 131/2, 141/4)" F: 33/4" G: 121/2 (131/4, 14, 151/2, 171/2, 19, 201/2, 211/4)"

Next row (RS) Knit.

Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.

Next rnd Purl.

Next rnd Knit.

Eyelet rnd *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end.

Next rnd Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 3 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 4 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 5 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 6 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 7 rnds Knit.

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59

Next rnd Purl.

Next 8 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 9 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Next 10 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

Knit 13 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19) rnds—piece measures about 91/2 (91/2, 93/4, 93/4, 10, 10, 101/4, 101/4)" from CO.

DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK Next rnd BO 7 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15) sts, k88 (96, 106, 114, 124, 132, 142, 150) (including st on right needle after BO) and place these sts on holder for front, BO 7 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15) sts, knit to end—88 (96, 106, 114, 124, 132, 142, 150) sts rem for back. Work back and forth in rows.

BACK Next row (WS) Purl.

Next row (RS) Knit.

Rep last 2 rows 10 (10, 12, 14, 18, 20, 23, 23) more times.

Next row (WS) Knit.

Next row (RS) Knit.

Next row (WS) Purl.

Rep last 2 rows once more.

Next 3 rows Knit.

Next row (WS) Purl.

Next row (RS) Knit.

Next 3 rows Purl.

Next row (RS) Knit.

Next 3 rows Purl.

Next row (RS) K2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2—89 (97, 107, 115, 125, 133, 143, 151) sts.

Next 3 rows Purl.

SHAPE NECK Next row (RS) P22 (24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 36, 38), BO 45 (49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 71, 75) sts pwise, purl to end— 22 (24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts rem each side.

Break yarn, leaving a 30" tail. Place sts on holders.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

FRONT

Next 3 rnds Knit.

Return 88 (96, 106, 114, 124, 132, 142, 150) front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn.

Next rnd Purl.

Work as for back. With RS tog and using tails, join shoulders using three-needle BO.

Next rnd Knit.

Next rnd *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end.

Next rnd Knit.

SLEEVES With dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 66 (70, 74, 82, 92, 100, 108, 112) sts evenly spaced around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd.

Next rnd Purl.

Next rnd Knit.

Loosely BO all sts pwise.

Next 10 rnds Knit.

FINISHING

Next rnd Purl.

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■

Next 5 rnds Knit.

HANNA LÜBBEN discovered knitting in her late

Next rnd Purl.

Next 4 rnds Knit.

Next rnd Purl.

twenties, and it has been her constant companion ever since. In 2019, Hanna opened her business, Herbgarden Knitwear, and began designing patterns.

She strives to create designs that are fun to knit and will be long-lasting additions to your wardrobe.

Find more of Hanna’s patterns on Ravelry and at www.herbgardenknitwear.com.

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61

A XINITE HAT Emily Kintigh DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

3

FINISHED SIZE 171/2 (191/4, 203/4)" circumference and 7 (73/4, 81/2)" tall. Hat shown measures 203/4".

YARN Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton Comfort (80% fine wool, 20% organic cotton; 180 yd [165 m]/2 oz [57 g]): #9054 Silver, 1 ball.

NEEDLES Sizes 5 (3.75 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm):

16" circular (cir). Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Marker (m); tapestry needle.

GAUGE 20 sts and 36 rnds = 4" in Lacy

Ridge patt on larger needle.  For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES TECHNIQUES TO KNOW

• This hat is worked in the round from the bottom up.

K2tog Weave in ends Yarnover  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

STITCH GUIDE LACY RIDGE PATTERN (even number of sts) Rnd 1 *Yo, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Rnd 2 Purl.

Rnd 3 *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end.

Rnds 4–6 Knit.

Rep Rnds 1–6 for patt.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

HAT With smaller cir needle, CO 88 (96, 104) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1". Change to larger cir needle. Work Rnds 1–6 of Lacy Ridge patt (see Stitch Guide) 5 (6, 7) times, then work Rnds 1–3 of patt once more.

SHAPE CROWN Note: Change to dpn when necessary.

Rnd 1 *K9 (10, 11), k2tog; rep from * to end—80 (88, 96) sts rem.

Rnd 2 Knit.

Rnd 3 *K8 (9, 10), k2tog; rep from * to end—72 (80, 88) sts rem.

Rnds 4–6 Work Rnds 1–3 of Lacy Ridge patt.

Rnd 7 *K7 (8, 9), k2tog; rep from * to end—64 (72, 80) sts rem.

Rnd 8 Knit.

Rnd 9 *K6 (7, 8), k2tog; rep from * to end—56 (64, 72) sts rem.

Rnds 10–12 Work Rnds 1–3 of Lacy Ridge patt.

Rnd 13 *K5 (6, 7), k2tog; rep from * to end—48 (56, 64) sts rem.

Rnd 14 *K4 (5, 6), k2tog; rep from * to end—40 (48, 56) sts rem.

Rnd 15 *K3 (4, 5), k2tog; rep from * to end—32 (40, 48) sts rem.

Rnds 16–18 Work Rnds 1–3 of Lacy Ridge patt.

Rnd 19 *K2 (3, 4), k2tog; rep from * to end—24 (32, 40) sts rem.

Rnd 20 *K1 (2, 3), k2tog; rep from * to end—16 (24, 32) sts rem.

Rnd 21 *K0 (1, 2), k2tog; rep from * to end—8 (16, 24) sts rem.

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Size 203/4" only Next rnd [K1, k2tog] 8 times—16 sts rem.

Sizes 191/4 (203/4)" only Next rnd [K2tog] 8 times—8 sts rem.

All sizes Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■ EMILY KINTIGH is an all-around creative person who

designs knitting patterns for accessories, toys, and more.

When she isn’t knitting, Emily can be found painting, gardening, walking her dog, or working at her day job as an educational assistant in Eugene, Oregon. Find her designs on Ravelry.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

New to knitting?

We have you covered.

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Enjoy: n A video glossary to visually help you

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Visit Interweave.com/go/start-knitting to get started today!

K YANITE COWL Megi Burcl DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

4

FINISHED SIZE 40" long from point to top of seam and 10" wide.

YARNS Trendsetter Yarns Tiger (40% nylon,

30% baby alpaca, 30% Merino wool; 220 yd [201 m]/13/4 oz [50 g]): #65 Pistachio/Black, 3 balls.

NEEDLES Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size

if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Removable marker (m); tapestry

needle.

GAUGE 23 sts and 40 rows = 4" in garter st.

 For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES

TECHNIQUES TO KNOW Bind off Make 1 Right Ssk Weave in ends

• This cowl consists of a long, narrow triangle followed by a bias knit parallelogram.

The end of the parallelogram is twisted, and the live stitches are joined to the side of the parallelogram.

COWL CO 3 sts.

TRIANGLE  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

Knit 4 rows.

Inc row (RS) K1, M1R, knit to end—1 st inc’d.

Cont in garter st, rep inc row every 4th row 62 more times—66 sts.

Knit 3 rows, ending with a WS row.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

PARALLELOGRAM Bias row (RS) K1, M1R, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. Place a removable m in last st.

Rep bias row every 4th row 63 more times, ending with a RS row (see Joining Diagram).

JOIN LIVE STS TO SIDE Turn needle 180 degrees to twist top of cowl.

Then, without undoing twist, hold needle with live sts so tip of needle is at m and WS of sts on needle are against RS of cowl, with needle and sts adjacent to selvedge edge above m. With WS of cowl facing, insert empty needle from WS to RS into edge st at m, then k1 from left needle, pass edge st over, *insert empty needle into next garter ridge, k1, pass edge st and previous st over; rep from * to end. Fasten off last st.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■ MEGI BURCL lives in Ohio with her family and with a

Dalmatian who, after four months, has been trained to curl up on Megi’s hip as she knits. He is an excellent armrest. Find her designs on Ravelry.

1. Turn needle 180° so needle point is facing in the opposite direction and the wrong side of the cowl is facing

2. Join live stitches to edge here

Removable marker

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67

CHALCEDONY PILLOW Laura Barker DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

4

FINISHED SIZE 173/4" wide and 171/2" tall.

YARN Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted

(75% acrylic, 25% wool; 200 yd [183 m]/ 31/2 oz [100 g]): #149 Periwinkle Heather, 3 skeins.

NEEDLES Size 8 (5 mm): 24" circular (cir).

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Markers (m); stitch holders; spare

cir needle in size 8 (5 mm) or smaller; one 2" button; 18" square pillow form; tapestry needle.

GAUGE 18 sts and 29 rows = 4" in charted

patt.  For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

TECHNIQUES TO KNOW Knitted cast-on Three-needle bind-off Weave in ends  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

NOTES • The triangular flap for this pillow cover is worked first, back and forth in rows, then stitches are cast on for the pillow body and the rest of the pillow cover is worked in the round, then finished with a three-needle bind-off.

• Because the flap is reversible, mark the front of the flap to distinguish the right side from the wrong side.

VERTICAL BUTTONHOLE, RIGHT SIDE

PILLOW FLAP

Next row (RS) Work Row 19 of Right Edge chart over 10 sts, remove m, place next 10 sts on holder.

CO 2 sts. Do not join.

Next row (RS) K1, (purl into front and knit into back) of same st—3 sts.

Work Rows 20–27 of Right Edge chart over these sts only—14 sts. Break yarn. Place sts on holder.

Next row (WS) P1, k1, (purl into front and knit into back) of same st—4 sts.

VERTICAL BUTTONHOLE, LEFT SIDE Return 10 left side sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Work Rows 19–27 of Left Edge chart—15 sts.

Next row Work Right Edge chart over 2 sts, place marker (pm), work Left Edge chart over 2 sts (inc’d to 3 sts)—5 sts.

Cont in patt through Row 18 of charts—20 sts.

LEFT EDGE

RIGHT EDGE 35

2

33 2

19

17

p on RS; k on WS 2

2

(knit into front and purl into back) of same st (purl into front and knit into back) of same st pattern repeat

3 2

1

2 sts to 18 sts

7

2

5 2

9

2

7 2

11

2

9 2

13

2

11 2

15

2

13 2

17

2

15 2

k on RS; p on WS

21

2

19

2

23

2

21 2

25

2

23 2

27

2

25 2

29

2

27 2

31

2

29 2

33

2

31 2

35

2

5

2

3

2

1 2 sts to 18 sts

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JOIN HALVES

CENTER

16 st rep

Next row (WS) Work Row 28 of Left Edge chart over 15 sts, pm, work Row 28 of Right Edge chart over 14 held sts (inc’d to 15 sts)—30 sts total.

35 33 31

Cont in patt through Row 36 of charts—36 sts.

29

Next row (RS) Work Row 1 of Right Edge chart over 2 sts, pm, beg and ending as indicated for flap, work Center chart over 32 sts, pm, work Row 1 of Left Edge chart over 2 sts (inc’d to 3 sts)—37 sts.

27 25 23 21 19

Cont in patt through Row 36 of charts—68 sts.

17

Next row (RS) Work Right Edge chart over 2 sts, pm, beg and ending as indicated for flap, work Center chart over 64 sts, pm, work Left Edge chart over 2 sts (inc’d to 3 sts)—69 sts.

15 13 11 9

Cont in patt through Row 18 of charts—84 sts.

7 5

PILLOW BODY

3 1

Next rnd P1, k1, pm for beg of rnd, beg and ending as indicated for body, work Rnd 19 of Center chart over 80 sts, pm, p1, k1, using the knitted method, CO 76 sts, join to work in the rnd, p1, k1—160 sts.

end flap

Next rnd Beg and ending as indicated for body, work Rnd 20 of Center chart over 80 sts, sl m, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Cont in patt until pillow body measures about 171/2", ending with Rnd 36 of Center chart. Do not BO.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

beg flap

k on RS; p on WS p on RS; k on WS

Cont in patt through Rnd 24 of chart.

Next rnd Beg and ending as indicated for body, work Rnd 25 of Center chart over all sts.

beg body end body

2

(knit into front and purl into back) of same st

2

(purl into front and knit into back) of same st pattern repeat

FINISHING Turn pillow WS out. Sl 80 sts to spare cir needle.

Join front and back using three-needle BO. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew on button.

Insert pillow form into cover, then button flap. ■ LAURA BARKER is a former engineer and math teacher

and a lifelong knitter. She enjoys combining the best of her experience in knitting design and education. She was an instructor at a Washington, D.C., yarn store and has taught at various retreats and festivals. Laura was the founding vice president of the Capitol Hill Knitting Guild.

Find her on Instagram and Ravelry as CathedralKnits.

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DIOPTASE HAT Molly Hackett DIFFICULTY LEVEL YARN WEIGHT

3

FINISHED SIZE 143/4 (17, 191/4)" circumfer-

ence (see Notes) and 61/2 (71/2, 81/2)" tall.

Hat shown measures 191/4".

YARN Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend (70% Merino wool, 30% silk; 150 yd [135 m]/13/4 oz [50 g]): #3301 Abalone, 1 (2, 2) skein(s). Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.

NEEDLES Sizes 3 (3.25 mm) and 5 (3.75 mm):

16" circular (cir). Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS Marker (m); tapestry needle.

GAUGE 32 sts and 32 rnds = 4" in Slipped

Rib patt, relaxed, on larger needle.  For more info, see How to Read a Knitting Pattern.

NOTES TECHNIQUES TO KNOW S2kp2 Weave in ends  Need more help? Find techniques and tutorials online at www.interweave.com/go/knitting-glossary.

• This hat is worked in the round from the bottom up.

• The rib pattern allows for a large amount of stretch.

• Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back unless indicated otherwise.

STITCH GUIDE S2KP2 Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over—2 sts dec’d.

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QUICK + EASY KNITS No. 2

SLIPPED RIB PATTERN (multiple of 9 sts) Rnd 1 *K1, p2, k1, sl 1 (see Notes), k1, p2, k1; rep from * to end.

Rnd 2 *K1, p2, k3, p2, k1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.

HAT With smaller cir needle, CO 117 (135, 153) sts.

Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.

Next rnd *K1, p2, k3, p2, k1; rep from * to end.

Rep last rnd until piece measures 11/4" from CO. Change to larger cir needle. Work Slipped Rib patt (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 51/2 (61/2, 71/2)" from CO, ending with Rnd 1.

SHAPE CROWN Note: Change to dpn when necessary.

Dec rnd *K1, p2, s2kp2 (see Stitch Guide), p2, k1; rep from * to end—91 (105, 119) sts rem.

Next rnd *K1, p2, sl 1, p2, k1; rep from * to end.

Dec rnd *K1, p1, s2kp2, p1, k1; rep from * to end—65 (75, 85) sts rem.

Next rnd *K1, p1, sl 1, p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Dec rnd *K1, s2kp2, k1; rep from * to end—39 (45, 51) sts rem.

Next rnd *K1, sl 1, k1; rep from * to end.

Dec rnd *S2kp2; rep from * to end—13 (15, 17) sts rem.

Next rnd Knit.

Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ■

MOLLY HACKETT began knitting as a way to calm her

nerves during track meets in college. That has turned into a lifelong love of knitting and crocheting. Her day job as a rocket scientist keeps her entertained most days, but sometimes Molly just wants to get back to the basics with math—and knitting and designing have filled that gap. Find her on Ravelry as Molly HatChick.

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Patterns for Beginners and Beyond • No. 2 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tamara Honaman EDITOR Stephanie White MANAGING EDITOR Laura Hulslander SENIOR PROJECT EDITOR Joni Coniglio ASSISTANT EDITOR Julia Pillard TECHNICAL EDITOR Karen Frisa COPY EDITOR Dale Ulland PROOFREADER Lavon Peters

CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR Kerry Jackson PHOTOGRAPHY Molly Stevenson STYLING Emily Smoot TECHNICAL ILLUSTRATION Ann Swanson

MARKETING & ADVERTISING SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Lorena Leggett,

lleggett@goldenpeakmedia.com AD TRAFFICKER Cari Ullom

DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tiffany Warble GROUP ART DIRECTOR Emily Simpson DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg SVP, CONSUMER MARKETING Paula Backer VP, DIGITAL Melanie Darienzo

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please contact us at www.interweave.com/contact-us. Quick + Easy Knits does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Quick + Easy Knits. Nor does Quick + Easy Knits evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Quick + Easy Knits.

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