Fashion Journal 191

ISSUE 191 / 2019

F R E E

Sunshine Drive

W WW. WR A N G LER . C O M. A U

CONTENTS

High Rise

10

16

20

26

28

34

40

44

The Scoop Fashion News Step Out with Converse From Country Feature Spotlight On Designer Profiles Coat Check Editorial Daisy Chain Editorial Sustainably Sourced Shop Beauty Buys New in Beauty

PUBLISHER Furst Media Pty Ltd. Mycelium Studios Factory 1/10-12 Moreland Road Brunswick East VIC furstmedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Giulia Brugliera giulia@furstmedia.com.au

PAR-MOI POLKA BLOUSE $179 Full shoot credits on page 42

DIGITAL EDITOR Sasha Gattermayr sasha@furstmedia.com.au

From the Team Hi friends, As we sit to pen our introduction to this next issue of Fashion Journal, we take a moment of pause. For us, this issue has been an opportunity to take stock of our rapidly evolving fashion industry and consider where it’s heading. While we’ve long been supporters of emerging talent, we’ve never been more excited about its future direction.

On page 28 we introduce just a handful of names from a long list of labels who are carving out their own models of retail, with results benefitting both the consumer and environment.

SALES & CREATIVE CAMPAIGNS Sophie Hodges sophie@furstmedia.com.au

We also speak with the journalist behind @ausindegenousfashion, Yatu Widders Hunt (page 20). Through her Instagram account, Yatu is giving a platform to a growing number of Indigenous Australian designers who continue to be largely ignored by mainstream fashion media.

Also in this issue, we profile a new crop of brands and businesses operating with sustainability at their core (page 40), look at beauty newcomers and ingredients for Spring (page 44), and prepare for a change in season with Converse (page 16).

The FJ team xx

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Maeve Kerr-Crowley, Nicole La Ruffa ADVERTISING Giulia Brugliera giulia@furstmedia.com.au Sasha Gattermayr sasha@furstmedia.com.au Sophie Hodges sophie@furstmedia.com.au DESIGN LEAD & DIGITAL Ruby Furst ruby@furstmedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGN Nina De Pietro DISTRIBUTION distribution@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL INTERNS Christina Karras, Ruby Staley, Anthony Graetz, Tess Macallan, Indah Dwyer, Mariah Papadopoulos

COVER

KATE SYLVESTER BLYTH JACKET $456, LONELY QUINN DRESS $370, VALET EVIE EARRINGS $159, MODEL’S OWN BOOTS

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FASHIONJOURNAL.COM.AU @FASHIONJOURNALMAGAZINE /FASHIONJOURNALMAG

DESIGN INTERNS Izak Stevens, Sophia Temporali

Photographer – Seung Rok Baek Model – Alissa Sugawara at Kult Models Full shoot credits on page 34

© 2019 FURST MEDIA PTY LTD. No part may be reproduced without the consent of the copyright holder.

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POWER TO THE PERIOD PERIOD. theprojectrem.com

NEWS

The Scoop

A.P.C. A.P.C. has collaborated with creative collective Brain Dead on an eccentric new collection. The line, dubbed Interaction #3, is inspired by the 1972 documentary Future Shock and retrospectively depicts what merch could have looked like for the movie’s release. Think imaginary movie posters on the back of shirts, bright yellow hoodies bearing the film’s title, and script excerpts printed on jeans and jackets.

The collection is available now from select A.P.C. and Incu stores.

INCU.COM

Poppy Lissiman

Blundstone

Karen Walker

Poppy Lissiman has dropped fresh, spring-ready styles just in time for the sun’s re-emergence.

The new range is heavy on transparent PVC, with playful details like marigold graphics and colourful gingham prints. Poppy has included mini handbags with detachable shoulder straps, boxy totes and an oversized shopper for extra versatility. Plus, everything’s made from recycled plastics and faux-leather, so your conscience will approve.

Not many brands can boast 149 years as a family-run business. Blundstone has managed it, working its way up from local roots to sell iconic, hardy boots in more than 70 countries. The brand offers work, play and adventure shoes inspired by the wilderness and heritage of Tasmania. As well as classic silhouettes, like the rustic 1308, Blundstone continues to update its range with new styles and more creative materials. Latest additions include the waxed suede 1615, nubuck leather 1466 and indigo blue 1462.

Karen Walker has finally embraced the power of ‘I do’, releasing a debut bridal collection.

Karen Walker Atelier encompasses both bespoke clothing and jewellery, with a selection of gowns, engagement rings and wedding bands for the less-than-traditional bride. Expect custom suiting, playful mini dresses, ethereal gowns heavy on lace and embroidery, and jewellery that draws on the designer’s classic arrowhead and starburst motifs. Personal fittings are available at the Karen Walker Atelier suite in New Zealand, so you may need to book a flight for this one.

POPPYLISSIMAN.COM

BLUNDSTONE.COM.AU

KARENWALKER.COM

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NEWS

Australian Style Institute Australian Style Institute is filling final places for its professional styling courses for 2019. Limited spots are still available for the school’s upcoming Certificate, Advanced Certificate and Masters of Professional Styling, with applications now being accepted online. The curriculum teaches principles of human psychology and behaviour, giving its graduates a competitive industry edge. A hands-on staff of industry mentors and world-class, flexible learning options will also support your journey. More information, including a course guide, is available online.

AUSTRALIANSTYLEINSTITUTE.COM.AU

Wrangler

UNIQLO

MUJI

We’re all for labels finding innovative ways to reduce their environmental impact, and Wrangler’s Indigood denim initiative is a great example. Traditional methods of dyeing denim can have nasty environmental effects, including the production of blue wastewater. Wrangler has recently introduced its new foam-dyeing method, which applies dyes via foam instead of through chemical or water vats, meaning no water is used in the dyeing process. The first batch of foamdyed denim is now available online.

With KAWS: Companionship in the Age of Loneliness set to hit the National Gallery of Victoria this month, the exhibition’s major partner UNIQLO is releasing a new range of T-shirts and tote bags. The 21-piece collection titled KAWS: SUMMER will feature styles for both adults and kids bearing select KAWS illustrations. You can get your hands on the range from UNIQLO and the NGV Design Store from September 20.

MUJI works to deliver essential products that consider the relationship between people and nature. To this end, the retailer is turning the spotlight on its new linen range. Linen is a fitting inclusion in the MUJI offering, as it works hard: its flax fibres are more resilient than many other natural fibres, with the added bonus of being hypoallergenic, breathable and moisture absorbent. To secure quality, most of MUJI’s linen products are manufactured with 100 per cent pure linen and organically grown flax. View, feel and shop the range in-store now.

WRANGLER.COM.AU

UNIQLO.COM/AU

MUJI.COM/AU

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NEWS

The-V-Spot An online marketplace for fashion savants with an environmental conscience, The-V-Spot supports a variety of indie designers in its roster of ethical and sustainable brands. Offering a range of apparel, shoes, bags, accessories and clean beauty, The-V-Spot’s curated site does all the work to help you shop more consciously.

Every product on the platform is proudly vegan, ethically made and environmentally friendly.

THEVSPOT.COM.AU

Rag & Bone

Veja

RES Denim

Rag & Bone has introduced a new line of women’s denim, carefully engineered to offer a perfect fit for different preferences and tastes.

Each season, five blueprint silhouettes will be updated with new leg shapes and washes to further diversify the label’s denim range.

Styles are categorised by rise, starting low and ending at a super-high rise. Like every pair of jeans created by the brand, these new fits prioritise quality, craftsmanship and timehonoured denim manufacturing techniques.

Veja has officially tried its hand at the holy grail of 2019 footwear: the dad sneaker. Adhering to the same social and ecological standards as the rest of the Veja range, the new chunky-soled Venturi incorporates protective cushioning made from 50 per cent natural rubber, originally designed to protect feet against vibrations while running. For the dad-style upper, you’ve got a choice between five new colourways, including suede, leather and a mesh made from recycled plastic bottles.

RES Denim sees denim as the quintessential Australian wardrobe staple, reflecting the country’s love of comfort, adventure and individuality. The brand maintains a classic style to all its designs through the use of heritage cloth recipes from the ’40s, coupled with quality yarns and dyes from around the world. For spring, RES Denim has dropped a campaign fronted by newest brand muse, model Brigette Cooper. In the collection, expect relaxed fits and timeless washes, complete with pops of bright white.

RAG-BONE.COM

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VEJA-STORE.COM

RESDENIM.COM

AVAIL ABLE NOW AT CLARKS.COM.AU

Step Out Now that winter’s over, every day is a new chance to edge closer to summer dressing. For a little inspiration, we’ve trialled looks for a few different occasions in partnership with the Converse One Star Sandal.

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CONVERSE.COM.AU

Wear to: date night Whether it’s a fresh fling or your steady boo, getting a little dressed up for date night is a simple way to show you care. Stick to a lighter shade for a clean, monochrome look and accessorise sparsely but creatively.

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@CONVERSE_ANZ

/CONVERSEAUSTRALIA

Wear to: a music festival The key to a festival outfit you won’t regret by the end of the day is comfort and maximum breeziness. To avoid overheating thanks to crowds or dancing, it’s worth considering a loose playsuit – in a bright, playful colour to reflect the festive atmosphere, obviously.

THIS PAGE

FINDERS KEEPERS HELOISE PLAYSUIT $159.95, SELECTED SL TANK (WORN UNDERNEATH) $59.95 FROM MYER, CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN SUNFLOWER $60 OPPOSITE PAGE

MANNING CARTELL POP SWAGGER BLAZER $599 AND PANTS $399 MARIMEKKO KAIDE JOKERI TOP (WORN UNDERNEATH) $295 DEADLY PONIES MR BOXETTE GRANDE BAG $609, CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN BLACK $60

Wear to: Sunday brunch Our favourite way to keep it both casual and interesting is with the classic Canadian tuxedo. When catching up on your pals’ lives over smashed avo or a coffee, you can’t go wrong with comfy jeans, contrasting washes and a cheeky splash of red.

PHOTOGRAPHER – SAM WONG PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT – LUKE CHANG

HAIR & MAKEUP – ASHLEIGH CARPENTER

STYLIST – JADE LEUNG MODEL – DEBBIE AT DUVAL AGENCY

Wear to: a picnic in the park With the knowledge that you’re going to be sitting in the sun eating fruit and nibbles, we fully support embracing a bit of romance and drama. Try an all-white look, and be sure to bring a cute blanket along to take the brunt of any grass stains.

THIS PAGE

KATE SYLVESTER VITA SKIRT $459 MANNING CARTELL TRANSPARENT DREAM SHIRT $299, KATE SYLVESTER EFFIE BODICE $239, CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN WHITE $60 OPPOSITE PAGE

LEVI’S 501 CROP JEANS $149.95 LEVI’S DORI WESTERN SHIRT $99.95 KOWTOW CLASSIC TEE (WORN UNDERNEATH) $69, K-WAY JACK PLUS DOT JACKET IN ORANGE $180 FROM STYLERUNNER, HOLLY RYAN X PARED SERRA SUNGLASSES $260 CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN ENAMEL RED $60

FEATURE

From Country WORDS BY MARIAH PAPADOPOULOS

When considering the direction of the fashion industry, one thing can’t be denied: sustainable fashion is on the rise. But for Yatu Widders Hunt, the term highlights a gap between Indigenous Australian and mainstream designers, as well as an opportunity for connection.

“People talk about sustainability as if it’s a new way of designing, but it’s actually anchored in how we have always done things,” says Yatu Widders Hunt.

The communications consultant and journalist is the founder of thriving Instagram account @ausindigenousfashion, which curates images showcasing the work of Indigenous Australian designers. She is also a descendent of the Anaiwan and Dunghutti peoples.

Citing interior designer Alison Page, Yatu explains how the term ‘sustainable fashion’ is synonymous with Indigenous design methods that have existed for 60,000 years. “As Aboriginal people, we’re born with a cultural obligation to care for the earth,” she says.

Rock-solid cultural values that have been passed down through generations are the foundation of contemporary Indigenous design strategy. Aboriginal Australian culture is inextricably linked to the land, and the sustainability agenda flows naturally from this.

“You won’t meet many Aboriginal designers that don’t work in ways that are sustainable and ethical,” says Yatu. “There’s a beautiful opportunity for the mainstream fashion community to better connect and learn from Indigenous peoples, because we are the oldest surviving culture on the planet and we have the oldest surviving traditions of sustainable design.”

The broader industry, it seems, has a lot to learn from Indigenous designers. But in the past, this reality has scarcely been acknowledged among the heavyweights of Australian fashion.

During her time as a journalist, Yatu worked for NITV and Koori Mail among other news outlets. She curated arts and fashion stories such as the Tjungu Indigenous Cultural Festival fashion show held at Uluru. Rubbing shoulders with talented creators, she met with designers such as Natalie Cunningham of Emu Designs (now Native Swimwear Australia), the first Indigenous Australian designer invited to show at New York Fashion Week.

“I met her and saw her collections, and I was absolutely baffled that she wasn’t getting picked up in mainstream media.”

Mystified the talented creatives she came across didn’t have support from their home

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PHOTO VIA NORTH

country – despite being invited to showcase their work in New York and Miami – Yatu started her Instagram page out of disappointment.

“I couldn’t believe that they didn’t have as strong a profile in Australia as I had imagined they might. People would say to me ‘Oh, I don’t even know who that is’.”

Initially she hoped to raise awareness and generate publicity for Indigenous designers and artists. But as she continues her work with these creatives, the account has become a tool to guide Australians towards a deeper, more genuine understanding of Indigenous fashion.

“We’re in a bit of a tough place in Australia at the moment. We are confronting some really hard conversations around where we are socially and politically,” she says. “[As a nation], we’re on a journey of really accepting and acknowledging Indigenous history as part of our identity. We’re still on that journey.”

Yatu and her peers are working to expedite this process, and their efforts are not without return. Marnin Studio’s collaborative project Design Within Country is connecting a growing number of emerging Melbourne labels like Lois Hazel and Post Sole Studio with the young people

and artists of Fitzroy Crossing. At the recent Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair, cult Australian label Gorman premiered a collaboration with local artists from the Mangkaja Arts centre, also in Fitzroy Crossing.

“It’s a very powerful thing to see that kind of leadership from within the fashion community.”

For Yatu, collaborations like these exist at the surface of the Aboriginal Australian design space.

The goal is to establish a gateway for deeper exploration of Indigenous voices and stories, expressed through fashion and design.

Supporting Indigenous designers doesn’t have to be a loaded political statement. From that perspective, Yatu champions a more relaxed mindset. Her focus isn’t shouting from the rooftops. It’s taking the time to listen to the stories Indigenous Australians have to share.

“Whenever you buy a piece of Indigenous fashion, you are intrinsically connecting with a story and a tradition. There’s just no other country on earth that has the world’s oldest surviving culture as part of its fabric.”

@AUSINDIGENOUSFASHION

M AYA

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SPRING 2019

GOODS

A New Light Our sense of smell is one of our strongest assets, and the sense most closely linked to our memory of others. If you’re not feeling your own signature fragrance anymore, it might be time to switch things up. From mainstays to newcomers, here are our fresh picks for spring.

PHOTOGRAPHER – ROSS CAMPBELL AT CUBED STUDIO STYLIST – JAM BAYLON

Clockwise from top left MAISON MARGIELA COFFEE BREAK EDT 100ML $170 FROM MECCA.COM.AU, MUGLER ALIEN FUSION MALE EDT 100ML $110 FROM MYER, IITTALA RAAMI TUMBLER (SET OF TWO) IN SEA BLUE $29.95 FROM MYER, MUGLER ALIEN FUSION EDP 60ML $139 FROM MYER, IITTALA RAAMI TUMBLER (SET OF TWO) IN MOSS GREEN $29.95 FROM MYER, RAG & BONE FINE FRAGRANCE IN OUD 50ML $205, ELLIS BROOKLYN RROSE EDP 50ML $153 FROM MECCA.COM.AU, BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP 100ML $297 FROM MECCA.COM.AU

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GOODS

Star Burst The iconic Converse One Star is already one of the most versatile styles in our closets, but doubling down with a pair of One Star slides means we’re all set for warmer days too. With a thick suede upper strap and memory foam footbed, the sneaker-sandal hybrid is equal parts ease, style and comfort.

PHOTOGRAPHER – ROSS CAMPBELL AT CUBED STUDIO STYLIST – JAM BAYLON

Clockwise from top left CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN SUNFLOWER $60, CONVERSE ONE STAR SANDAL SLIP IN EGRET $80, CONVERSE ONE STAR SANDAL SLIP IN BLACK/EGRET $80, CONVERSE ONE STAR SLIDE SLIP IN ENAMEL RED $60

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CONVERSE.COM.AU

@CONVERSE_ANZ

/CONVERSEAUSTRALIA

DESIGNER PROFILES

Spotlight On

Silent Arrow

Prene

Silent Arrow is about to open its first store in St Kilda, giving you the chance to touch and try its inclusive lingerie line before you take it home. The store’s arrival comes just in time for a collaboration with non-profit organisation, Sea Shepherd. All profits from a new accessories capsule will be donated back to the organisation to further its mission of conserving and protecting our oceans. The partnership is the latest step in Silent Arrow’s sustainability plan, which has also seen its True Rad Girl Bra – available in 32 different sizes – crafted from recycled microfibres.

Prene was started locally in Melbourne from the bedroom of a 20-year-old university student. This side hustle soon grew to a recognisable accessories brand. Creating easy to care for, lightweight bags, made from vegan-friendly neoprene, Prene has a strong focus on functionality. The brand offers simple pieces that are both classic in style and practical in use. Options include tote bags, backpacks, cosmetics and travel bags, as well as neoprene inserts to help you organise your contents. Sealing the deal for indecisive buyers, Prene’s bags are also machine washable.

WEARESILENTARROW.COM

PRENEBAGS.COM

Miro Miro Perth-based creative Andrea Goh has launched her latest project, a handcrafted jewellery line inspired by artist Joan Miró. The designs draw on Miró’s use of simple lines and spherical forms while also exploring aspects of Goh’s Chinese heritage. For example, Goh incorporates green and orange onyx into her designs to nod to her roots, as both are recurring colours in Chinese culture. Stones are ethically sourced and set in 18-karat gold and rhodium plating, as well as sterling silver. Each design is built on classic silhouettes but embraces small differences – like the Luna earring, which holds a small natural stone only visible from certain angles.

SHOPGOH.COM

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Coat Check

When it comes to cultivating thoughtful practice within the fashion industry, Australia is close to bursting with names worth mentioning.

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THIS PAGE

JACK WEARS DOUBLE RAINBOUU BIKINI KILL 3D LONG SLEEVE SHIRT $220 AMXANDER DAHL DETACHABLE SATIN OVERCOAT $570 OPPOSITE PAGE

JACK WEARS MNDATORY DOUBLE BREASTED GUN CLUB BLAZER $790 HOMIE EMPATHY TEE $65 ADELE WEARS SSCHAFER MESH GLOVE DRESS $250 COREPRÊT M.03 BODICE POA

As retail continues to adapt to new models of business and sustainable practice, a number of Australian labels are breaking ground. These reformers are increasing the consumer value of their output while simultaneously reducing their environmental impact, inviting consumers to buy less. Here we celebrate the change-makers, trailblazers and those carving out their own path to delivering design.

PHOTOGRAPHER – JESPER HEDE AT CUBED STUDIO

Amxander

A menswear label with an ethos of disassembly and reconstruction. AMXANDER utilises silhouettes and motifs associated with uniforms of different eras, cultures and occupations. These enduring design foundations are then injected with Eastern influences in order to transform the mundane into something special.

Arnsdorf

Hit pause in 2012 to properly respond to its own ethical concerns around its business practice, before relaunching in 2016 with a new set of standards. Almost all operations are now conducted in-house, with the brand building its own factory in Collingwood to accommodate.

Instead of collections, Arnsdorf releases individual styles in small runs as they’re created throughout the season.

Articles of Clothing

An experimental fashion label offering an-ever rotating selection of archive pieces. Each design is numbered and produced in a highly limited run which, when sold out, makes way for another design to briefly resurface.

Bared Footwear

Puts health first, with style a very close second.

Started by podiatrist Anna Baird, the label inserts a biomechanical footbed into each of its designs that steer clear of cliché, grandma-esque orthopaedics. For men and women.

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STYLIST – JAM BAYLON STYLIST’S ASSISTANT – CHLOE WILSON HAIR AND MAKEUP – KAT BARDSLEY

Coreprêt

Established around a simplified Monday to Friday model of dressing, Coreprêt is out to redefine the way we approach office dressing and the personal uniform. The brand is currently in hibernation, set to relaunch with new work-appropriate designs in October.

E Nolan

With a background in tailoring, designer Emily Nolan recently turned her hand to custom suiting for women. Each garment is made to order and designed to be worn frequently, with a focus on lasting quality.

MODELS – ADELE AND JACK FROM DUVAL AGENCY

Krystal Deans

Crafts garments only in response to client orders, with waste reduction and personalised consumption front of mind. Uses a variety of thoughtful textiles across collections, meaning prices will depend on your choice of fabric.

Mimi Holvast

A local designer and seamstress involved in each stage of the design process, from initial conception to pattern making, cutting and construction. She delivers womenswear in small runs from her studio in Byron Bay. All fabrics are made from natural fibres and sourced from within Australia.

Hew

Established to fill a gap in the Australian market for colourful, out-there menswear. The label regularly collaborates with local artists to design fun and experimental prints.

HoMie

A socially-focused label supporting young people affected by homelessness. As well as donating 100 per cent of profits to social impact programs, the brand assists homeless youth in finding employment. It recently released an entirely upcycled collection using past-season designs, which sold out in a day.

Mndatory

Tailored menswear inspired by architectural design principles. Garments are made to order, ensuring the personalised quality and fit of each garment while limiting wastage.

North

Shares the work of Indigenous artists across the Northern Territory. North sources prints from art centres in Indigenous communities and screen prints them, by hand, onto high quality fabrics.

Textiles are then turned into clothing, homewares and accessories, which generate an income stream for the art centres and provide a mechanism for supporting ongoing creative work.

ADELE WEARS SSCHAFER VINYL JACKET $300, ARNSDORF PRUDENCE SHIRT $480, COREPRÊT M.03 TROUSER POA, HABBOT LUCA RED SHOES $415, HOMIE SOCKS $20

JACK WEARS DOUBLE RAINBOUU BIKINI KILL 3D LONG SLEEVE SHIRT $220, AMXANDER DAHL DETACHABLE SATIN OVERCOAT $570 AND MATILDA CHECKERED PLEAT TROUSERS $350, HOMIE SOCKS $20 BARED POLONIUM WHITE LEATHER LOAFERS $229

Oh Seven Days

Classic-leaning capsule collections made entirely from fabric leftovers and offcuts. These are sourced in Turkey, where a number of big brands manufacture their garments. Oh Seven Days also offers personalised fits and customisation, to accommodate different shapes and sizes.

Par Moi

A one-woman show, with every piece designed, cut and sewn in Melbourne by designer Ashiya Omundsen (formerly of House of Cards). Ashiya has rejected the seasonal fashion calendar in favour of very limited runs and once a piece sells out, it’s gone forever.

Pendulum Studios

The brainchild of last year’s Redress Design Award winner, Tess Whitfort, and a prime example of forward-thinking sustainable design.

Zero-waste production methods are applied to cool, unapologetic streetwear, taking a different direction to many earthy, linen-loving ethical designers.

Permanent Vacation

Releases ‘projects’ rather than seasonal collections to maximise longevity and global appeal. Every maker involved with the brand sits within 15km of its Melbourne studio, and designs are made in runs only large enough to meet demand.

Post Sole Studio

Offers its entire footwear range in both leather and vegan options. The latter makes use of Ecolorica, a microfibre material that perfectly mimics the look and texture of natural leather. All designs are made by hand from the P.S.S. studio in Melbourne.

SÜK Workwear

Gender-inclusive workwear for all forms. The label was started by Mimosa Schmidt, who spent her twenties on building sites in standard issue, ill-fitting workwear. Feeling that her femininity, in the context of hard labour, was wrongly seen to imply incompetence, she started SÜK workwear.

Everything in the range is made from vegan, chemical-free materials.

ADELE WEARS COREPRÊT TH.2 POA, ARNSDORF ROBERTA TANK $149 ARTICLES OF CLOTHING MAROON JOGGER NO 149 POA, POST SOLE STUDIO CRISS-CROSS SANDALS IN SKY $339, VALET ATHENA EARRINGS IN YELLOW $119, RESPIRO EDIE BAG $279 FROM VALET

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DAISY CHAIN

PHOTOGRAPHER – SEUNG ROK BAEK STYLIST – AMY LOVE HAIR AND MAKEUP – CHERRY CHEUNG MODEL – ALISSA SUGAWARA AT KULT MODELS

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OPPOSITE PAGE ANNA QUAN SHIRT $300, STYLIST’S OWN TURTLENECK, ARNSDORF CALDER JEANS $380, VALET GEO HAIR CLIPS $55, MODEL’S OWN BOOTS THIS PAGE LONELY LUNA TEE $170, INCU COLLECTION REINA POLO (WORN UNDERNEATH) $180, ARNSDORF ODETTE SKIRT $470, VALET MARITZA EARRINGS $119

TRELISE COOPER LET’S RIDE JACKET $1,200 RELIQUIA PANTOMIME EARRINGS $139

GUESS PAISLEY FANTASY TOP $239.95, CECILIE COPENHAGEN MADINE KNIT $269 COOPER LICKETY SPLIT SKIRT $399, RELIQUIA PANTOMIME EARRINGS $139

ARNSDORF CLASSIC TRENCH $890, LONELY ALANNAH DRESS $290 PARED ROMEO & JULIET SUNGLASSES $250, MODEL’S OWN BOOTS

ANNA QUAN SHIRT $300, STYLIST’S OWN TURTLENECK, VALET GEO HAIR CLIPS $55

GUESS PAYTON COAT $579.90, TRELISE COOPER LET ME GO DRESS $899 STYLIST’S OWN TURTLENECK, VALET MARITZA EARRINGS $119, MODEL’S OWN BOOTS

SUSTAINABILITY

One Better

Celery the Label

The Fabric Store

Celery the Label pays careful attention to its sustainable efforts at every step of the creation process, including research, production and packaging. Every piece of vegetable-tanned leather or length of Australian wool used across the brand’s range of backpacks, duffel bags, totes and side pouches is consciously chosen with its environmental impact in mind. Celery’s new collection of recycled cotton bags, for example, is made from pre-consumer cotton waste – which means scraps, selvedge and mis-cuttings from cotton production are diverted from landfill and repurposed to create a new canvas fabric for the bags.

The Fabric Store is all about combatting fast fashion by giving people the option to craft their own beautiful clothes. High quality silks, linens and cottons share the store with specialty textiles like merino and leather. A sustainable ethos of reusing as much as possible means the company avoids mass-produced and ethically-questionable fabrics. Instead, the brand gets its stock from high-end designers, taking on unneeded sample lengths, offcuts and fabric ends. Not only does this bring unique, limited-run fabrics to customers, but it cuts down on industry waste.

CELERYTHELABEL.COM

THEFABRICSTORE.COM.AU

Shapes in the Sand Australian swimwear label Shapes in the Sand has introduced an industry-first, plant-based material for its new Pisces collection. The fabric, which is derived from castor bean oil, is just the beginning of the brand’s environmental efforts. As well as a zero-waste approach, 100 per cent recycled materials and the invention of a water-soluble hygiene liner, the label is now also working to protect marine life. It has teamed up with shark conservationist Madison Stewart to support her ongoing initiative, Project Hiu, through the sale of its latest collection.

SHAPESINTHESAND.COM.AU

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SUSTAINABILITY

Reuze It

Her Wardrobe

Reuze It was born out of a passion to educate and a desire to make sustainable choices easier. The brand believes in adopting simple changes to your everyday habits to better the environment and minimise long-term damage. The product line includes reusable alternatives for a range of singleuse plastics, such as coffee cups, straws, baking mats, shopping bags and drink bottles. There are also more sustainable options for everyday items like a bamboo toothbrush and an organic cotton bread bag. All products are designed for daily use.

One of the most sustainable ways to shop is to not buy anything at all.

Fashion rental companies like Her Wardrobe let you try out new trends or styles through a risk-free process, since anything you don’t love will go back to the retailer instead of into landfill. As well as a brick-and-mortar boutique in St Kilda, Her Wardrobe operates an online store with express shipping Australia-wide. Each outfit also comes with a pre-paid return envelope, so they’re extra easy to send back when you’re done.

HERWARDROBE.COM.AU

REUZEIT.COM.AU

Kindling

Velvety

Independent womenswear label, Kindling, has transformed both modern and nostalgic cuts for its new warm weather collection. Bold, striking prints are used across a range of natural fabrics, including Japanese hemp, linen and cotton, as well as salvaged remnants and vintage textiles. Silhouettes are striking but versatile to allow for maximum wearability. Taking a slow fashion approach, the label works closely with its seamstresses in Vietnam and Australia, having built up a trusting creative relationship over nine years. Kindling’s commitment to best practice production also extends to minimising waste, and using only paper and packaging that is both recycled and recyclable.

Velvety is an online hub of vegan, fair-trade and cruelty-free products, bringing as many brands together as possible to make switching to a greener lifestyle easier. The store’s ethos is based on placing values above trends and considering the long-term effects of our purchases beyond saving a few dollars. Across clothing, accessories, skincare and makeup, Velvety has carefully selected companies based on their ethics and certifications – with most products approved by PETA and similar organisations.

VELVETY.COM.AU

KINDLING.COM.AU

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Sweet Cheeks

PHOTOGRAPHER – HAYLEY PEASE PHOTOGRAPHER'S ASSISTANT – CHESTER LEWIS STYLIST – PAIGE MARY GRACE

HAIR & MAKEUP – VIC ANDERSON AT RELOAD AGENCY MODEL – SOPHIE AT PRISCILLAS MODEL MANAGEMENT

HAIR & BEAUTY

We’re all for a little rosy flush on a sunny day.

A good blush is the easiest way to add a bit of life and colour to your face, while still keeping your look relatively natural.

SIGNIFICANT OTHER TEMPO BLAZER DRESS $259 INCU COLLECTION TOP (WORN UNDERNEATH) $180 VALÉRE OYSTER LUXE EARRINGS $210

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Start with a fresh base, using a tinted moisturiser or BB cream, before brushing up your brows and adding a lick of tinted balm. Finish with a setting spray for a dewy, natural glow.

HAIR & BEAUTY

Beauty Buys

Ole Henriksen

Rohr Remedy

Ole Henriksen has released his first at-home face mask powered by polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), aptly called the Phat Glow Facial. These active ingredients use chemical exfoliation to even skin tone and texture, without going deep enough to require heavy recovery time. The mask is packed with Nordic birch sap for nourishment and hydration, pink bentonite clay to cleanse and detoxify, chia seed oil for plumpness and cotton extract to condition. The mask’s smoothing effect is designed to brighten skin and reduce the look of pores, fine lines and dark spots.

The Australian landscape offers a wealth of resources when it comes to making quality natural skincare. Rohr Remedy combines traditional Indigenous techniques with pharmaceutical formulas to create transformative effects for your skin. Key ingredients include desert lime, boab, Kakadu plum and quandong, which have evolved over time to be nutrient-dense thanks to harsh natural conditions. The range covers your whole skincare routine, with cleansers, moisturisers, serums, oils, body wash and a natural deodorant on offer.

SEPHORA.COM.AU

ROHRREMEDY.COM

Andalou Naturals Andalou is all about innovation, finding the best biotechnical ingredients to give its natural skincare products an edge. As well as its signature Fruit Stem Cell Science – utilising antioxidants from fruits like apples and grapes – the brand has introduced its new CannaCell line. Infused with hemp stem cells and hemp seed oil from the Cannabis Sativa plant, products like the CannaCell Glow Mask are designed to prevent oxidative damage, protect your skin from pollutants and leave it glowing. Andalou’s range is 98 per cent nature derived, GMO-free, vegetarian, gluten-free and cruelty-free. @ANDALOUNATURALS_AU

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HAIR INTERVIEW & BEAUTY

Hey Bud Skincare Hey Bud Skincare is encouraging beauty goers to be more conscious of what they put on their skin.

The Australian brand's purifying clay mask has hemp seed oil as its key ingredient, known to firm and rejuvenate the dermis, even out skin tone and repair stressed and dehydrated skin. Other actives in the mask include goji extract, avocado oil, aloe vera, kaolin clay and matcha green tea.

Together these ingredients extract pollutants and nasties, unclogging and tightening pores while deeply nourishing the skin. A master of all trades, Hey Bud’s Australian Hemp Clay Mask can also improve the appearance of redness, giving you a from-within glow.

HEYBUDSKINCARE.COM

Officine Universelle Buly

Fenty Beauty

Building on the bestselling Pommade Concrète Hand and Foot Cream comes a new release by Officine Universelle Buly. The Double Pommade Concrète works twice as hard as its predecessor, with antibacterial properties making it a worthy alternative to your hand sanitiser. While traditional hand sanitisers disinfect the skin, they can also cause dehydration. This new release instead uses a precise dosage of essential oils, properties of shea butter and emollient active ingredients to deeply moisturise skin and strengthen nails, while removing traces of polluting agents. The natural alternative lands at Mecca Cosmetica and online on October 1.

In a bid to take over your entire makeup routine, Fenty Beauty has released its debut brow product. The Brow MVP Ultra Fine Pencil and Styler is a retractable, triangular pencil designed to make feathery, hair-like strokes. With its just-creamy-enough formula, the product is long-wearing, waterproof and smudge-proof. In true Fenty design, the line has been built to accommodate an extensive range of hair colours, with 14 shades stretching from strawberry blonde to deepest black. There’s also a built-in paddle brush for combing, shaping and blending out excess colour to achieve a natural finish.

MECCA.COM.AU

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SEPHORA.COM.AU

OAKIETHELABEL.COM @OAKIE_THELABEL

ECO | ETHICAL | SUSTAINABLE

REVIEWS

Look & Listen WITH SASHA GATTERMAYR AND GLORIA BRANCATISANO

Trick Mirror

Bunny

JIA TOLENTINO

MONA AWAD

The Testaments MARGARET ATWOOD

There are few times when media creates a din so loud and the resulting product ends up being, at all, worth the agitation. Jia Tolentino is one of the writers who can withstand the noise. She manages to circumnavigate the hype and deliver a debut book about the contemporary human condition that makes her worthy of our attention.

Trick Mirror asserts there are many ways we see ourselves, and also many ways we fail to see ourselves. Through essays that are funny, real and relatable, Tolentino offers a stumping examination of this dissonance, woven with threads of selfexamination. She shares hypotheses on the social genesis of the Internet and her brief appearance on reality television as a teenager. Though, I wish she’d give herself more credit as the millennial spokesperson she never meant to become.

Norman F---ing Rockwell

Touted as The Vegetarian meets Heathers, I was always bound to love this book. Though lacking in both Han Kang’s delicacy of language and the immediate cult-classic status of Michael Lehmann’s film, Awad still gives us a hedonistic page-turner. Brimming with narcissism and obsessive female friendship, it follows misanthrope Samantha in her elite MFA program at a New England college. Thinking she’ll never want to befriend anyone, Samantha unwittingly falls into the dark web of a clique of rich girls in her class.

Taking a disturbingly funny turn, the campus of sociopathically intelligent students are revealed instead as straight-up psychopaths. This book is a twisted bacchanalian fever dream where nothing is as it seems, but you only realise when it’s too late to do anything about it. For fans of The Secret History and The Girls.

It’s the sequel to the 1985 novel that no one thought the beloved Canadian author would write. But then along came Elisabeth Moss and the 2016 elections, and every expectation went out the window. Picking up 15 years after the original novel finished, Gilead is still under the autocratic rule of its all-male oligarchy. But there is something rotten in the state of Gilead, and cracks are beginning to show in the stronghold.

The story is told through three women across different generations as they grapple with their identities and positions in the power structure.

If they are able to fight, do they really want to?

It’s hard not to think of these characters and this setting in the context of the adaptation, but Atwood does a remarkable job in allowing novel and series to work together.

About Us

Complex

G FLIP

MONTAIGNE

LANA DEL REY

Lana Del Rey’s fifth album – with its 14 tracks stretching to over an hour – is a journey that’s well worth strapping in for. Del Rey’s dreamy, breathy signature vocals are in full flight, and against stately piano, gently finger-picked guitar, lush strings and washes of synths, she tells lonely yet deeply romantic tales of Americana. But there is a price to pay for the American Dream and Norman F---ing Rockwell beautifully narrates the country’s downfall. LA is the place where American dreams go to die, after all. The retro haze is inescapable, but even for its ’60s and ’70s Laurel Canyon pop vibe, this is a record firmly entrenched in the now.

And despite the apocalypse that might be coming, Del Rey ends the record with what might be its most important line – “Hope is a dangerous thing for a woman like me to have, but I have it.”

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Remember when G Flip released her debut single, also titled ‘About Us’, and blew up so fast people were convinced she was an industry plant? Well, here we are with her debut album and it more than delivers on expectations. G Flip’s powerhouse vocals and stellar musicianship stand front and centre, delivering that same electric energy we’ve come to expect from her live performances. About Us is full of self-introspection and raw emotion, and whether G Flip is belting out a catchy hook, pounding through a drum solo or creating something softer, feelings of honesty, anxiety, loneliness and vulnerability are on full display. But there is also a strength and triumph that underpins each one of these personal narratives. Australia’s pop scene is currently having a renaissance thanks to a number of fresh and confident voices, and G Flip is right at the front of the pack. This is only the beginning.

What we really need is more brilliant, brave, leftfield pop — the kind that takes risks, throws out curveballs and fills you with equal amounts of joy and sorrow while still delivering huge hooks and soaring pop bangers. Enter Montaigne’s second album, Complex. With bright production flourishes, her signature powerful vocals, pulsating hooks and catchy melodies, Montaigne’s distinct brand of art pop stands tall. But alongside all the eccentricities and dramatic quirks sits Montaigne’s lyrical storytelling. Honest, open and vulnerable, she moves from bright anthems about new love and pushing yourself to improve, into darker moments focusing on mental and physical illness, toxic relationships, burnout and self-doubt. Complex is a brilliant, introspective look into the deepest parts of Montaigne, and it just might be one of the year’s best releases.

Kelsey is wearing: True Rad Girl Bra (10B-18G) & Stylin’ Hi Waist (XS-2XL). Both made from recycled microfibre!

SOCIAL

Out & About Pandora Brand Relaunch To celebrate an impressive global rebrand, Pandora threw a very big, very pink launch party in LA last month. The brand has reset its focus to empowering self-expression, encouraging women to voice and share their passions.

With performances by SZA and Charli XCX, the laneway party was held between vibrant murals created for the event by a female graffiti artist collective led by activist C. Finley. Aussies Shanina Shaik, Georgia Fowler and Bambi NorthwoodBlyth were in attendance, celebrating alongside the brand’s newly-named muses Nathalie Emmanuel, Halima Aden, Tasya van Ree and local Margaret Zhang.

AU.PANDORA.NET

Stockists AMXANDER ANNA QUAN ARMS OF EVE ARNSDORF ARTICLES OF CLOTHING BARED FOOTWEAR CECILIE COPENHAGEN CONVERSE COOPER COREPRÊT DEADLY PONIES DOUBLE RAINBOUU ELLIS BROOKLYN FINDERS KEEPERS GUESS

amxander.com annaquan.com armsofeve.com arnsdorf.com.au articlesofclothing.com.au bared.com.au ceciliecopenhagen.com converse.com.au trelisecooperonline.com corepret.com deadlyponies.com doublerainbouu.com mecca.com.au fashionbunker.com shop.guess.net.au

HABBOT HEW HOLLY RYAN HOMIE IITTALA INCU COLLECTION K-WAY KATE SYLVESTER KOWTOW LEVI’S LONELY MAISON MARGIELA MANNING CARTELL MARIMEKKO MNDATORY

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MUGLER PARED POST SOLE STUDIO RAG & BONE RELIQUIA RESPIRO SANCIA SELECTED SIGNIFICANT OTHER SSCHAFER TRELISE COOPER VALÉRE VALET

myer.com.au paredeyewear.com postsole.com rag-bone.com reliquiajewellery.com valetstudio.com sancia.com.au myer.com.au shopsignificantother.com sschafer.com.au trelisecooperonline.com valere.com.au valetstudio.com

sydney r e ta i l f e s t i va l

16-17 september 2019

the venue alexandria

a premium fa s h i o n t r a d e s h ow Sydney Retail Festival is a premium trade platform that showcases established and emerging Australian and international brands across 25 fashion categories. We invite you to inspire, connect and discover the latest ranges, collections, practices, trends, technology and offerings from Australia’s leading fashion businesses + support the growing talent and efforts of our next generation of designers and young fashion entrepreneurs.

200+ brands

across 25 categories

women’s apparel jewellery curve swim consulting children’s apparel streetwear beauty men’s apparel homewares sustainable fashion evening wear gifts footwear active intimates technology accessories maternity resort manufacturing specialty apparel logistics +more

free! retail seminar series It is no secret that the Australian retail landscape is rapidly changing! We are hosting 6 Fashion Seminars that will give you the tools you need to stay ahead of the game.

monday 16th september

tuesday 17th september

the future of retail

sustainability & sourcing

tech & fashion

social impact

what buyers want

fashion influence & marketing

1 1 : 0 0 a m - 12 : 0 0 p m 1 2 : 3 0 p m - 1: 3 0 p m 2:00pm- 3:00pm

1 1 : 00am- 1 2 : 00p m 1 2 : 30p m- 1 : 30p m 2 : 00pm- 3: 00pm

featuring expert panellists from: + many more!

free to attend! register now online

or contact our events team for details

sydneyretailfestival.com.au (03) 9103 1407

@ sydneyretailfestival

i n f o @ s y d n e y r e ta i l f e s t i va l . c o m . a u

BLUNDSTONE.COM.AU