Spring/Derby 2016 Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine

Forum/The Substance of Style/SS 2016

HOW TO DRESS NOW!

THE HISTORY OF

GOLF STYLE

JIM AND SUSAN

ANSWER YOUR FASHION QUESTIONS

Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

FEATURES 26 30 48 64 68 72

Culture: KMAC’s Aldi Milliken Couture: The Art of Fashion Profile: Samuelsohn Resorts: Sea Island Dreaming Interview: David Feherty History: Style Evolution

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Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

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Welcome Letter Happenings Rodes Events Ask Susan Ask Jim The Fashion Forum Wheels: A Horse With No Mane Travel: Brijuni Designers: Work It

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Welcome

When you’ve been in the apparel business for five generations, you see your fair share of changes. On the other hand, being around a long time also gives us the perspective to see the big picture and know that all those changes are about doing our best for you.

You are part of our Rodes family, and we would not have lasted 102 years without you!

We strive to offer you the greatest experience every time you walk through our doors. And we are always looking for better ways to serve and connect with you.

The best way, of course, is to see you in person.

We eagerly await your next visit!

See you around town, Susan and Howard Vogt

BEAUTY, BALANCE & LUXURY

CITRINE CAGE PENDANT AND EARRINGS DESIGNED BY

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LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC

happenings

GILDA’S NIGHT

Rodes hosted Gilda’s Night in November and nearly $600,000 was raised for Gilda’s Club Louisville, whose goal is to ensure that no one ever walks a cancer journey alone! Thank you to each person and organization who made this possible!

HOLIDAY CHEER Santa came to town on December 5th during Rodes’ annual Customer Appreciation Day. Old friends and good neighbors stopped by to enjoy the festivities and visit with St. Nick!

MARCH

11 & 12 12 12 17 17 17 & 18 17 - 19 18 & 19

Isaia Spring Showing Rodes City Run 10K Santoni Shoe Showing Rodes’ 102nd Anniversary Samuelsohn Spring Showing Natura Bisse Facial Event Lourdes Chavez Spring Showing Zegna Spring Showing

APRIL

14 - 16 16 21 21 - 23 21 - 23 22 & 23 22 & 23 23 23

Orlanda Olsen Jewelry Show Scarpe di Bianco Shoe Show Derby Divas Christine A. Moore Hat Show Stylists from Joseph’s Salon Clara Williams Jewelry Show Emy Mack Shoe Showing Eton Shirt Day Magnanni Shoe Showing

MAY

save the dates

2-5 18 & 19 20 & 21

Christine A. Moore Hat Show Basler Fall 2016 Showing Escada Fall 2016 Showing

JUNE

in store

EVENTS

10 & 11 16 - 18 21-July 2

St. John Fall 2016 Showing Algo Fall 2016 Showing Lafayette 148 New York Fall Show

VISIT RODES.COM FOR DETAILS!

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SJ K .C OM

LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK

ROBERT TALBOTT

VINCE.

LOEFFLER RANDALL

CANALI

SHOSHANNA

PETER MILLAR

BLACK HALO

SAMUELSOHN

ST. JOHN

JILL HABER

ETRO

ARMANI COLLEZIONI

SAMUELSOHN

THEIA

ESCADA

Hats by Christine Moore Millinery

culture

ALDI MILLIKEN DRIVES THE DYNAMICS OF

KMAC

BY SUSAN VOGT Because humans across the world have the same basic needs, almost every community has a rich history in arts and crafts. A bowl or pitcher results from using the materials at hand to meet a need, in this case holding food or water. That same bowl or pitcher also has a larger social impact: it makes life easier, prettier and more productive. How different is the pottery made by the Incas from that made in Egypt or the Appalachian Mountains, and when does that craft turn into art? The Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft, founded in 1981 with the mission to focus on our region’s rich craft heritage, answers those questions and gives Louisville and her visitors a wonderful collection of American folk art. With the advancing of time, the role of the museum has become more complex. The definition of art has expanded outside the walls of traditional museums and become part of the fabric of our society. Where do crafts fit into this contemporary art world?

This is the underlying question Aldi Milliken asks of himself as he builds the future of KMAC within the global art world. Milliken is the executive director and chief curator of KMAC, discovered in Sweden

by U.S. Ambassadors Brooke and Matthew Barzun. Unlike many dignitaries, they deeply immersed themselves in the Swedish culture and art worlds. As director and owner of the Milliken Gallery in Stockholm, Milliken was focused on collaborating with artists and writers to create thought-provoking shows. He befriended many Louisvillians, but it was Elizabeth and Mike Mayes who finally

wooed Milliken to Louisville (to our benefit, I might add). Elizabeth Mayes, then president of KMAC, was looking for a profound change to the museum. Milliken was intrigued by the opportunity to make an impact at KMAC by analyzing and rethinking the museum as a showcase for contemporary art as part of our history. Modern art exists outside the walls of museums, in every city and small rural community. Crafts should be appreciated not only as end products, but we should also explore and value the process of their creation.

The challenge was to provide a contemporary setting that would ignite people’s interest in the past. Milliken acknowledges that KMAC has everything going for it: a downtown location, a perfect size, and all the right departments to promote growth and education in our community. Every exhibit, education curriculum and social outreach program was created with intention by Milliken’s team and the KMAC board.

The museum’s philosophy is that dynamic contemporary art should be crafted with social, historical and human implications. The materials themselves have meaning. Good art, meaningful art, will ask questions. The museum should not offer its opinion, just the opportunity to find one’s own understanding of the work. Crafts take on new meaning when viewers focus on the hundreds or thousands of hours of brain images taken during the creative process. Artists question the materials being used, mixing elements with modern meanings and combining social and historical implications.

JONATHAN SIMKHAI

M MISSONI

SHOSHANNA

couture

THE ART OF FASHION

BY SUSAN VOGT

KMAC

couture

ART WALKS THE RUNWAY APRIL 16, 2016

KENTUCKY MUSEUM OF ART AND CRAFT

Art is the highest form of communication, and one of the best ways to influence our society through art is to impact daily lives. What better medium than clothing? Clothing is a common experience. Since the emergence of Venus from her shell, we’ve all wanted to look good and all share in the daily practice of dressing ourselves.

The haute designs we see on the red carpet are often one-of-a-kind creations, designed for a particular personality to wear to a specific event. From there, the clothing inspires other designers, and the original ideas trickle through into ready-to-wear collections, finally making an impact on our everyday lives. I recall my favorite monologue from The Devil Wears Prada, when Meryl Streep’s character gives our heroine, played by Anne Hathaway, an education on how cerulean blue became an on-trend color that season; it all began with a “pile of stuff.”

Four years ago, KMAC Couture was born, encouraging local artists to channel their energies into dynamic designs with the goal of creating an innovative wearable art exhibition using the fashion runway as a platform.

“The idea was to take that common human experience and radicalize it,” says Aldi Milleken, executive director and chief curator of KMAC, “rethinking the use of materials in relation to the human body to have it become a statement of form and art.” This high-fashion “pile of stuff” is sure to influence what you wear for years to come.

What is the pile of stuff? It is the materials that are presented to you. As Milliken explains, “The essence of KMAC Couture is resolving problems with a creative solution. It is the consideration of body movement and type, materials and design to re-innovate the common practice of dressing oneself.” The revolution is how the artist combines found objects into that one piece of work that could walk the runway as a dynamic creation that has never been seen before. Last year, 95% of the pieces came from local designers, including dozens of participants from duPont Manual High School and other local high schools, plus colleges including Western Kentucky and University of Louisville.

How do we get people excited about art? We celebrate it! KMAC Couture transforms Main Street with a 100foot tent stretching down the sidewalks. Inside is a runway show celebrating thousands of hours of hard work resulting in wearable art. Imagine the emotions of the artists, coming together under this roof, hearing the thumping music, being surrounded by 500 of Louisville’s finest guests dressed in 50 shades of white, watching their designs walk the runway, and being rewarded with a standing ovation. That is the essence of meaningful art for the people: activating emotion.

Stay Beautiful 3938 Dutchmans Lane | p: (502) 897 5369 | josephssalon.com |

/josephssalon

LA PETITE ROBE

Thank you to the Visual Arts Program at duPont Manual High School for the KMAC backdrop.

NORMA KAMALI

S S 16 . B E A N E W G E N T L E M A N .

BASLER

CANALI

HAMMITT

TRIXIE SCHOBER ISAIA

ETON

BLACK HALO

ISAIA

HERNO

HUDSON

IRIS SETLAKWE

ROBERT TALBOTT

SAMUELSOHN

DIDIER PARAKIAN

Thank you to photographer Andrew Kung, makeup by Meagan Townsend and Katy Gardner, hair by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa. Also, we would like to thank Nanz & Kraft Florist, Francis Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs and the Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft (KMAC) for the use of their new location.

askSUSAN

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Q:

There’s been a lot of pastel-colored clothing coming down the runways. How can I wear these sugary shades without looking like an Easter egg?

sonality: a ruffle detail to add texture, an asymmetric placket to up the architectural factor, or an off-the-shoulder silhouette to boost feminine

How indeed! Pantone named light pink “Rose Quartz” and baby blue

appeal. If the deconstructed button-up is too bold for your taste, revamp

“Serenity” as the colors of 2016, and you’re not alone in being wary of

your basic white shirt with a statement necklace. The pop of color and

wearing them. But these colors, along with other pale hues like mint

shine will instantly freshen your look.

and lavender, can infuse your look with a soft, nostalgic feel. When

mind your first baby bonnet, try a chambray shirt in a shade of pale

Q:

hydrangea, or a buttery rose-tone leather jacket. If you want even

hard to ignore the comfort and convenience a flip-flop can offer. The

more edge, look for statement hardware like zippers or studs.

good news is that we have plenty of other—much chicer—styles from

Still unconvinced? Don’t fret. Part of developing a signature style is knowing what works for you and having the confidence to sit out the trends that don’t. Want to try another color?

Spring and summer are the best seasons for wearing highwattage hues, so why not take the plunge with a burst of orange?

Stuart Weitzman and Loeffler Randall that aren’t tough on your toes.

choosing one of these sweet treats, remember that structure is key.

Look for streamlined styles and ground pastel pieces with neutrals like gray and white. Also, consider the material: if eyelet brings to

Q:

How can I give my classic white shirt an update?

I’m stuck in a flip-flop rut. Do you have any tips for upgrading my summer footwear repertoire?

I get it: strappy sandals can wreak havoc on your feet, and sometimes it’s

Wedges, three-season booties and mid-heels in lucite are all on-trend options that keep comfort in mind. This year’s fashions are somewhat more ornate than in seasons past, so expect fun details like rose gold hardware, fringe and tassels.

Q:

What one item can I purchase to infuse my wardrobe with fun?

A new warm-weather dress, of course! Dresses are comfortable, figure flat-

The white button-up is a go-to staple in many women’s wardrobes. It

tering and so easy to wear. We have new styles in store to suit every taste,

adds the right amount of polish to any look and can immediately

including some fresh florals and textured treatments like mesh overlays

transform an outfit from sloppy to chic. However, it’s time the white

and laser cutouts. Come in and let us show you the best of the best from

shirt gets a makeover. This season, it’s refreshed with a punch of per-

Clover Canyon, St. John, Etro, La Petite Robe, and more!

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askJIM

SPRING 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q:

I see a lot of my favorite suit brands offering madeto-measure suits and sportcoats. Is it worth the extra time and money?

Yes! You get to pick the fabrics, the model and the details (linings, buttons, monograms), and the fit is sure to flatter. Depending on the maker, delivery is usually within four to six weeks of getting measured, and we guarantee that this will become your go-to favorite suit! Our suggestion: select a pattern (subtle or bold) rather than a solid, or perhaps a seasonal fabric. If you’re going for special, why not make it really special?

plan on taking several long weekends this Any packing tips for a carry-on bag?

Q: Isummer.

Q: When is, and isn’t it, appropriate to wear sneakers?

Except for formal occasions and business meetings with conservative clients, it’s almost always okay to wear sneakers, especially contemporary leather or suede styles that look nothing like gym shoes. Modern sneakers might have contrast soles or colorful laces; they can cost as much as leather shoes and serve as a sort of hybrid between work and play. They’re certainly comfortable, and add a touch of personality to pants and a sportcoat.

That said, while some guys can pull it off, wearing sneakers with a suit takes a certain panache. If you’ve got it, go for it! But if you’re at all uncertain, stick to the updated leather shoes currently on our selling floor. Modern footwear will elevate your entire wardrobe.

Light and casual are the buzzwords for weekends away.

For travel, wear the pieces that take up the most room: long pants (lightweight five-pocket styles are perfect for most occasions), a long-sleeve woven shirt in cotton or linen and either a soft sportcoat or cardigan, depending on your weekend agenda. Then throw the rest into your carry-on—a short-sleeve woven shirt, two short-sleeve polos, two T-shirts, shorts, a swimsuit, underwear—and you’re good to go. If there’s room in your bag for sandals and grooming products, toss them in too. If not, hotels (and considerate hosts) can generally supply shampoo, moisturizer and flip-flops. If you’re a guest in someone’s home, don’t forget to bring a bottle of good wine. (But never pack sparkling wine in your checked bag, as it’s likely to explode. We know from experience!)

If you’re struggling to zip your overstuffed carry-on, you need a new travel bag! Come in and let us show you our favorite designs.

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profile Samuelsohn:

The Big Reveal

Tailored clothing’s best-kept secret comes out of the closet!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

These days, as business dress codes remain relaxed, men are choosing to wear fine tailored clothing because they want to, not because they have to. And men in the know are choosing Samuelsohn, an exceptional but low-profile clothing company that’s been crafting beautiful suits in Montreal since 1923.

But low profile no more, new ownership at this Canadian company relaunched the brand in 2011 and business has more than doubled. Much of the credit goes to the company’s new president and chief creative officer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, a talented designer and visionary executive who lives and breathes the clothing business. Upon taking over, he quickly recognized a “diamond in the rough” and immediately updated the label, the logo, the fabrics, the fits, the colors, the buttons, the linings, the marketing and

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more. What remains constant: Samuelsohn’s commitment to exceptional quality, and the “expression” of its full-canvas handtailored suits that both fit and flatter the wearer.

“I feel like I’ve come full circle,” says Silverstone, a third-generation clothing guy who grew up in his father’s suit factory in Montreal. “I’d always known and respected the Samuelsohn brand, Canada’s quintessential quality suit maker. (My father wore Samuelsohn suits!) As my career moved forward—from my father’s company to launching my own clothing label (that I ultimately sold to Oxford) to becoming design director at Nordstrom—I always dreamed of returning to manufacturing.

When Samuelsohn was bought by Stephen Granovsky in 2010, I was recommended for the job of president, and felt it was exactly where I belonged.” hat makes Samuelsohn clothing so special? Silverstone could go on for hours. “First of all, the suits are a rare combination of modern styling and classic tailoring, featuring fully basted canvas construction and hand-tailored details. Since all garments are produced in our own factory, we control every step of the process. Second, we are known for innovation, e.g. we were the first to come out with luxury performance fabrics that are cool, comfortable and wrinkle resistant; we’ve even developed clothing with carbon fiber! Third, we have the cleanest distribution in the industry: we don’t sell to outlets, only the best specialty stores in North America. Fourth of course is our tremendous intrinsic value: there’s more craftsmanship in a Samuelsohn garment than in most Italian brands that are double the price. (Canada’s duty advantages and exchange rates offer additional value for American customers.) Fifth, our made-tomeasure programs are the best in the industry. Sixth is our company culture: although we’re privately owned, we’re run more like a family business than a large corporation, with emphasis on customer service, personal relationships and employee appreciation.

“I know it sounds counterintuitive, but making money is not our number-one priority; we’re more concerned with providing the best goods at the best value and satisfying our customers so they’ll keep coming back.”

And come back they do! For spring ’16, check out the beautifully tailored Samuelsohn clothing arriving on our selling floor now. For practical types, we love the performance suit in a Loro Piana Storm System fabric with stretch. (It’s waterproof, wrinkle resistant and amazingly comfortable!) Or try the updated luxury travel blazer with 12 pockets and extra zippers. For nights and weekends, there’s an amazing washed cashmere sportcoat. And to make a bold fashion statement, why not a beautifully tailored striped DB suit in a hot shade of blue?

Which is his favorite? “It’s like asking a parent to choose his favorite child,” Silverstone responds. So we’ll let you, our customers, be the judge…

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the FASHION forum

NEVER TOO LATE FOR A CHANGE We’ve seen a complete changing of the guard in the late-night talk show world, with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon, James Corden, Seth Myers, Jimmy Kimmel and Trevor Noah among the funnymen now sitting in the interviewers’ chairs. But if the faces have changed, the uniform has remained mostly the same: dark suit, white or blue shirt, boring tie.

While these guys certainly look dapper, one can’t help but feel they could push the sartorial envelope a bit more. Corden is one of the faces of Burberry, so where are the cutting-edge designs and pops of plaid? Fallon recently signed a deal with G-III for licensed athletic wear, so perhaps he’s saving all his creative juices for that collaboration. And would it kill Myers to borrow something more casual and creative from Stefon, his former flame from Saturday Night Live? The time is ripe to start a trend. —BSL

L

ooking at the current high-fashion uses for denim, from threepiece suits to stylish coats, it can be hard to imagine just how utilitarian the cotton fabric was in its earlier days, when it was worn during the California Gold Rush and used to make early 20th-century prison uniforms. That latter usage surprised even fashion historian Emma McClendon, author of the new book Denim: Fashion’s Frontier and curator of the exhibition of the same name at New York City’s Museum at FIT. Still, McClendon admits that denim’s constant permutations really shouldn’t be shocking. “It’s the rare fabric that’s relatively inexpensive to produce, extremely durable, and easy to care for,” she says. —BSL

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TOP: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MUSEUM AT FIT

DURABLE DENIM

The Fashion Forum

THE MAN, THE MYTH Italians are known to be superstitious, none more so than the Neapolitans.

In addition to the distinctive touch Isaia’s red coral pin adds to the brand’s garments, they believe it also brings luck to the wearer. "We still keep the original piece of Isaia red coral, given to me by a friend, in our Milan flagship store,” says Gianluca Isaia. “And every jacket we make comes with a red coral lapel pin to bring good luck to he who wears it.”

The coral motif can also be spotted elsewhere throughout the collection, on buttons, under collars and in stitching.

As Isaia recounts from ancient mythology, Perseus slayed Medusa and delivered her head as a gift to the king of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with Andromeda, whom he found chained to a rock about to be eaten by the evil sea-monster Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat to wash his hands in the sea, Perseus laid down the sack that contained Medusa's head. Her blood dripped into the water and instantly hardened into the form we recognize today as red coral.

Just as the head of Medusa brought luck to Perseus in his battle with Cetus, red coral brings luck to the distinguished man who chooses an Isaia garment. —JL

FASHIONABLE FRIDA Is there anything more to know about Frida Kahlo? The great Mexican artist has been given the filmic treatment by Julie Taymor (and played

by Salma Hayek), and her work has been displayed everywhere from LACMA to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to the New York Botanical Garden. But another side of this groundbreaking woman is explored in Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being (Assouline, $195), a new book by journalist Susana Martinez Vidal that was inspired by an exhibition of Kahlo’s own clothing at her home, La Casa Azul.

As Vidal deftly illustrates, Kahlo’s fashion aesthetic is something neither time nor death can diminish. —BSL

STREET SMART

Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum gives the term “bag lady” a whole new (chic) meaning.

Inside a beautiful canal-side building, you can view hundreds of purses in various shapes, sizes and designs, spanning from the 1500s to the modern-day. This spring, the museum’s Street Couture exhibition (through June 5) offers an enlightening perspective on these accessories as it showcases colorful, playful and inventive bags by such top fashion names as Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior, sometimes pairing them with international fashion ranging from Japanese “Lolita” clothing to American hip-hop outfits to illustrate how one influences the other. It’s definitely worth crossing the Atlantic to witness these crossovers! —BSL

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PHOTOGRAPHY:SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR:MARCELINO GONZALEZ MAKEUP:CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING:WENDY MCNETT

DRESSing FOR A

GOODTIME Bring on the season of fun!

Add style and charisma to spring and summer with bright colors, breathable linens, light sportcoats, fun prints and great shades.

SCENE WITH STYLE

MAKING a

Lightweight sportcoats with colorful pocket squares and great accessories bring life to the party.

LOSE THESE OUTDATED LOOKS AND UPGRADE NOW!

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE NEW BLUE SUIT Black and charcoal feel too heavy for the warmer months, and the fit of your older suits is likely doing you a disservice.

To show you mean business, choose a blue slim-fit suit that follows the natural slope of your shoulder, nips in at the waist and breaks just slightly at the shoe. This color is less inky than traditional navy but is just as easy to wear. Pair with brown monkstraps and furnishings in seasonal hues.

BIG MEETING

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE KNIT BLAZER Some guys have taken the “casual� part too far. Stay professional in a linencotton blend sportcoat that keeps you cool under pressure. This versatile knit blazer is unlike anything else in your wardrobe: polished and sophisticated without sacrificing an ounce of comfort. Tailored fivepocket pants are just formal enough, and a dress shirt and knit tie complete the look.

BUSINESS CASUAL

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE LUXE POLO

P R O D U C E R / S T Y L I S T: M I C H A E L F U S C O . P H O T O G R A P H E R : E VA N TAY L O R G U N V I L L E . G R O O M E R : A M Y Z D U N O W S K I - R O E D E R . M O D E L : J U S T I N M C M A N U S @ F O R D .

Don’t give your style the day off just because it’s the weekend. Stick with wellfitting jeans or khakis and a trim polo, and don’t forget to accessorize! Wear with a sleeker sneaker or chukka boot—save your running shoes for the gym and flipflops for the beach.

WEEKEND COOL

resorts

Sea Island Dreaming

The history and tradition of this spectacular resort fulfill a golf-lover’s fantasy. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

’m sitting on the waterfront veranda of The Lodge, one of two luxury hotels at Sea Island Golf Resort. (The Lodge, adjacent to three golf courses on St. Simons Island, feels like an old English manor; The Cloisters, built on Sea Island in 1928 but reintroduced in 2006 after a three-year renovation, blends the history and aesthetics of Mediterranean revival style.) I’m sipping a Jack Daniels, taking in a brilliant sunset, and listening to the soulful sounds of a solitary bagpiper who’s been strolling the shoreline for the past hour. Enchanted by the music, the scenery, the wildlife, the canopy of oak trees and the genteel and gracious hospitality throughout the resort, I’m more relaxed than I’ve been in ages. (I had intended to go for a massage at Sea Island’s famous spa, but after only a few hours at the resort I no longer need one…)

Truth be told: I’m not a golfer but since I’m married to one, I looked forward to a mini-vacation at this renowned Forbes Five-Star resort, home to one of the top-rated golf schools in the country. Little did I know how much the property has to offer above and beyond golf! James Gibson, Sea Island’s VP of operations, lists a hunting lodge, a shooting school, a yacht club featuring fishing, sailing and kayaking, a pristine beach, numerous swimming pools, an award-winning 65,000-square-foot spa, an indoor atrium, many fabulous restaurants (including the five-star Georgian room and my favorite, Colt & Alison) and numerous bars (I loved the Oak Room!) among the resort’s amenities. “Our demographic is multi-generational,” he explains as we sip tea in the historic Trophy Room. “Guests come with their children and grandchildren, couples come for romantic getaways, groups come for golf outings, and of course many PGA golf pros have chosen to make this their home.” Asked to articulate the essence of Sea Island, what makes it truly special, Gibson talks about the employees. “At least 80 of our people have worked here more than 25 years, which is unheard

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of in our business,” he explains.

“Robert, who works in our men’s locker room, has been with us 50 years.

Ask him how he’s doing and he’ll always respond ‘Mighty Fine’ which is what we now call him. Our repeat customers always make it a point to visit with Mighty Fine…”

Brannen Veal, Sea Island’s director of golf, grew up playing golf in Macon, Georgia but turned to baseball at Auburn University (his dad had been a professional ball player with the Detroit Tigers). “After college, I went back to golf, starting out as a golf cart attendant as many of us do. I’m a good golfer (Editor’s Note: He’s being modest; he’s actually a scratch golfer.) and I’ve taught in Golf Digest top schools, but my passion is the service aspect: I love helping people enjoy the game.”

Discussing Sea Island’s celebrated state-ofthe-art Golf Performance Center (featuring 3D capture, 13 top-rated instructors, three fitters, two fitness experts and its own psychologist), Veal talks about an individualized approach tailored to personal goals and skill levels. Focusing on five core competencies (long game, short game, fitness, club fitting and mental game), Veal notes that each competency has its own instructors. “Our goal at this Performance Center was to create the ultimate golf experience: the best courses, luxury accommodations, fine dining, top fitness programs, exceptional instructors (who currently work with Davis Love, Matt Kuchar, Harris English, Zach Johnson and other pros) and our own sports psychologist, Dr. Morris “Mo” Pickens.

Veal points out that while many professionals frequent the Performance Center, it’s not just for five-handicappers. “I’d say the average handicap is mid-teens, and of course we also welcome beginners. And that’s one of the paradoxes we struggle with: because we have so many pros and so many top-50 teachers, people sometimes assume they’re not good enough to be here. So we’re trying to make the experience less intimidating. It’s essential for us to

grow the game and not be so focused on professionals and top amateur players. Sure they’re great, sure we want them here, but it’s just as important to get those beginner golfers who’ve never held a club, to make them feel comfortable so they want to be part of the game.”

Delving a bit further into the mental game, Veal jokes that “it’s the one place where I could destroy Dr. Mo: if he knew what was really going on in my head, he might never recover…” More seriously, he explains the process: usually a 30-minute initial assessment followed by Dr. Mo accompanying the golfer on nine holes and then coming up with suggestions. “It’s not earth-shattering stuff: it’s generally about how you compartmentalize, prioritize, focus and then let go. I know that’s oversimplified, but it works. And it’s as applicable to business, and to life, as it is to golf…”

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10th annual

Fashion Food Wine Divatinis All to support the Derby Divas Breast Health Center at Norton Women’s & Kosair Children’s Hospital through the Norton Healthcare Foundation

Thursday, April 21, 2016 6:30 to 9 p.m.

Rodes For Him and For Her RSVP to (502) 629-1234.

Learn how you can help fund mammograms for underserved women in our community by visiting NortonHealthcare.com/DerbyDivas.

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interview

KNOWN FOR HIS WIT, WISDOM, CANDOR AND CRAZINESS, BROADCASTER DAVID FEHERTY ADDS SOME MUCH-NEEDED PERSONALITY TO THE GAME OF GOLF.

BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN that Tiger Woods was starting out when he broadcast his first Masters and Jordan Spieth appeared on the scene for his last. Upon leaving CBS, Feherty signed contracts with NBC Sports and the Golf Channel, where he still does his highly rated interview series, launched in 2011.

Here, we talk to him about the state of professional golf and the turns his own career has taken.

Changing the Game uch has been written about David Feherty’s demons: a past tinged by drinking, drugs, insomnia, instability and other evidence of a dark side. Not enough has been written about his brilliance: an extreme work ethic, tremendous generosity (his Troops First foundation has raised millions, providing assistance, counsel and training to wounded soldiers), incredible charm, self-deprecating humor and a unique ability to get inside the heads and hearts of his interview subjects to showcase a little-known side of even the best-known celebrities. His is a talent that is very rare indeed.

Growing up in war-torn Northern Ireland, Feherty turned pro at 17 (with a five handicap) and played in the ’91 Ryder Cup and the ’92 Masters. He finished top 10 in three majors but retired from his professional career in ’97, just when CBS was looking for an on-course analyst. He attributes his 19-year tenure at CBS to good luck, noting

What is it about golf that attracts so many different personality types? Can you articulate the appeal of this game?

It’s like no other sport in that it has an addictive quality. Not everyone can throw a 60-yard touchdown pass but everyone can hit a ball in the middle of the clubface down the center of the fairway. There’s an indescribable feeling the first time it happens: you feel like the master of the universe because you’ve influenced a small object to go a long way, exactly where you want it to. There’s a sweetness to it. And once you’ve done it once, you want to do it again. Kind of like heroin.

Do you feel you lived up to your potential on the course?

Oh I think I went way past it. Not that I was ever one of the top players in the world, but I got close at times and I have no idea why.

Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time?

Tiger Woods. And it was harder to win in his era than it is today.

Do you think there will ever be another player who will dominate the tour for as long a stretch as Tiger did?

Not in my grandchildren’s lifetimes. It was an extraordinary spell.

Who has the sweetest swing in golf today?

Boo Weekley. There are players who line up behind him just to watch him hit on the range. It’s just gorgeous! He’s not a clothes horse; he’s not in great shape (he’s got issues with his back). In fact, he’s got a body like a ruptured sofa. But what a swing!

Well I kind of resemble him: the body, not the swing...

I’ve been there as well. When I quit drinking, I lost 75 pounds. I

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OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II

rolex

oyster perpetual and yacht-master are 速 trademarks.

had been close to 250. I was six inches taller if I’d lie on my back…

You’re famous for your very insightful interviews. Which are your favorites?

Well, I’ve interviewed a couple of presidents, most recently George W. I’ve also interviewed Bill Clinton and I love the fact that these two are polar opposites but great friends. Then there was Bill Russell, the greatest winner in the history of American sports. I’ve also interviewed Nicklaus, Watson, Samuel L. Jackson, Larry David… a tremendous cross section of people. But if I had to pick a favorite, I guess it would be Lee Trevino, my first interview, and my hero growing up. I remember watching him win the 1968 U.S. Open: there was just something special about Lee Trevino… I was only 10 years old at the time but I loved his style, his attitude. Then when I got a little older, I learned his story. He came from nothing: that’s my kind of people.

Which golfer, living or dead, would you most like to have interviewed?

I would love to have interviewed Seve (Ballesteros). We lost him, but he would definitely have been on my list. He was a magician, a warlock. He could change the weather with his face.

Here’s a tough one: Spieth, McElroy or Day? That is a tough one! I mean it’s so hard to pick between Jordan Spieth and Rory McElroy. Rory has more majors and he’s a little older but Jordan…the last time we had a child this special, there were three wise men and a donkey involved. So I can’t really choose. By the way, you should know that I’m not really an expert on golf; I just play one on television.

If you were stuck playing on one course over and over, which would you pick?

St. Andrews. Hitting to the 18th green, you feel like you’re playing into the soul of golf.

modern courses. I find it a shame that for the pros, the new equipment has taken the teeth out of these classic courses.

But all they’d have to do to make those courses relevant again is make the surface of the ball a little bigger. We did it once before when the diameter went from 1.62 to 1.68 inches. It makes the ball sit up around the greens a little better so it becomes easier for the amateurs to chip. But for the pros, it’s harder to hit it in a straight line. It spins more and won’t go as far. But that’s way too simple a solution for the ruling bodies, who just want to be members of each other’s golf clubs and don’t care about much else.

What took them so long to bring the British Open back to Ireland, where Royal Portrush will host it in 2019?

You’re right: it’s not been there since 1951. Of course we had The Troubles in Northern Ireland and it has to be in Northern Ireland: It would break tradition if it were in the South.

There are only a couple of viable venues in Northern Ireland, Royal County Down Golf Club being one of them. But it doesn’t have the infrastructure: you couldn’t get the crowd in and out. I think it’s taken them this long to get back to Royal Portrush because they were unwilling to spend what it would take to make it more accessible. The golf course is spectacular, but they still have a lot more work to do around it.

What do you think of McElroy’s decision to play for the Republic of Ireland in the 2016 Olympics?

Whether you’re British or Irish, if you come from Northern

“THE LAST TIME WE HAD A CHILD AS SPECIAL AS JORDAN SPIETH, THERE WERE THREE WISE MEN AND A DONKEY INVOLVED.”

Do you think technology has ruined or enhanced the game?

It’s definitely enhanced the game. For anyone who thinks it’s made the game too easy, just take a look at your score card. The amateurs are the important people in the game. Professional golfers are in the stratosphere where it really doesn’t matter. It’s the people who watch the game and pay for the 30-second commercials who drive the industry. They’re the important ones.

Is there any room in golf for tournaments played with older clubs and balls, like those used 25 years ago?

I think it’s a great idea; there’s room for a tournament like that for sure. I know they have this Hickory event that brings guys to their knees. Something between present day and Hickory would be interesting as well. I was using a wooden driver at the end of my career…

Today, the pros are carrying the ball over 240-yard fairway traps.

With a five iron!

Correct. I recently played the gorgeous Sea Island golf course where the pros play the RSM Classic and which is, like older classic courses, relatively short compared to the

Ireland, you have to make a decision. I had two passports for a long time and exchanged them both for an American one. I’m very happy with that decision. It’s not political and it’s not geographic: who you are is mostly an emotional issue. I didn’t know who I was until, at age 32, I captained the Irish side at the Dunhill Cup; when they raised the flag after we won, I got this huge lump in my throat. I remember thinking, “Sh*t, I’m Irish!” I hadn’t thought much about it until that point but it’s definitely an emotional thing.

What’s the toughest part of your job?

The constant travel. I get worn out with it: airports, hotels, being away from home…

And what, in your career, has been your biggest regret?

I don’t have regrets. I was a 17 year old with a five handicap and I decided in a geography class to drop out of school and become a professional golfer. When I look back, it was a miracle. Then, after I left professional golf, I was the right drunk in the right bar at the right time when CBS wanted to hire a course reporter. So I’ve been astonishingly lucky throughout my career.

They say it’s better to be lucky than good…

No sh*t!

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Evolution

Golf attire then and now.

BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD

GETTY1 THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION

Right: Ben Hogan, 1955 Below: The Duke of Windsor (left) with Lord Castleross, 1933

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GETTY1 HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION

history

Style

When I took up golf at the age of 41, the first thing I did was order a pair of shoes. Not just any shoes, mind you, as golf presented the perfect opportunity to bust out brownand-white spectator wingtips. When my Millennial-generation instructor saw me, he cast a doubtful eye. “The way it works,” he said, “is you’ve got to have game to wear stuff like that.”

I can see where he was coming from. I’ll never forget being in the group behind a freshly minted hacker. He hit every ball out of bounds, insisted on looking for it, and when he finally found it, took five strokes trying to hack it out of thick brush. But even more memorable than the

colossal waste of time he imposed on everyone behind him was his bubble-gum pink sweater. There was something offensive in his assumption that he could wear fun clothes despite having no skill nor sense of etiquette.

But the problem with golf attire today is not that it’s too flamboyant, but that it’s too serious. Crazy pants show up now and then, but for the most part golf clothing embodies the game’s obsession with professionalization, technology, corporate sponsorship and branding, leaving few traces of its aristocratic origins or Caddyshack hijinks. If we were to gather a metaphoric foursome representing the past hundred years of golf attire, we would see a sartorial mirror of change in both the game and society at large.

Let’s say that first on the tee box is the Gentleman. His hero is the Duke of Windsor, and he is clad in argyle knee socks, tweed plusfours (knickers), tattersall shirt, wool tie and Fair Isle sweater. For him golf is a game played on the vast acreage that surrounds a country estate—land that is used for farming (golf was invented by Scottish shepherds, after all), hunting, riding and keeping everyone else—save for the servants—as far away as possible. The clothing hardly differs from that worn for other country activities. Yet despite how it seems, there’s still a touch of the modern: for when the Duke of Windsor, the biggest fashion leader of his era, first donned a Fair Isle sweater in 1921, it was something new.

Next on the tee is the Classicist, from whom I take my personal inspiration. Whereas the Gentleman looks anachronistic, the Classicist is inspired by the past but stylistically relevant. The shoes are traditional, but the trousers are pulled from the man’s everyday wardrobe. The necktie is no longer customary, and in place of a dress shirt is a fitted short-sleeve polo shirt covered by a cashmere Vneck. A flat cap tops off the outfit. This simple, modern, timeless look was personified by Ben Hogan in the 1950s.

Wisecracking his way to the tee box next is the Country Clubber, even if he’s playing his local muni course at the discounted twilight rate. This guy’s hero is Bill Murray, and he resides in a sunny suburban community. He exemplifies the era when golf courses sprouted up across America, and middle-class desk jockeys took up golf to climb the social ladder. The clothing symbolizes a life of carefree suburban leisure: loud pants clash with brightcolored shirts and alpaca cardigans, and the clown colors seem to perfectly reflect the comedy of errors that is the game of golf. Hats are dispensed with altogether.

Finally stepping onto the tee box—and shooting from the blacks— is an imposing figure, so teched-out he simply must be a single-

ISTOCK: CHATCHAI SOMWAT

Right: Sergio Garcia, 2013 Below: Bobby Jones, 1920s

digit. He doesn’t wear wingtips, but shoes that look designed for skateboarding. His clothing is loaded with performance attributes and splattered with manufacturers’ logos. He wears a baseball cap, where yet another logo blares its brand loyalty.

Everything is color-coordinated, from his glove to his belt to driver head, which comes with 12 hosel adjustments. This is the Technocrat. In the near future, research will find that pants and zippered pullovers create wind resistance, and that a spandex bodysuit—the kind speed-skaters wear—can increase clubhead speed by an average of 1.2 miles per hour. This guy will be the first at his club to wear one.

On the surface it would seem like little in the game of golf has changed: you still try to hit a ball 400 yards into a four-and-a-half-inch hole in four strokes. Yet golf has always been driven by change and technology—the old balls were called featheries precisely because they were stuffed with feathers. And the world of golf instruction is increasingly accepting that there is no perfect onesize-fits-all swing, and that it’s more a matter of finding your own unique way of achieving the desired result.

Dressing for golf should be no different: you can wear whatever the hell you want, so long as it works for you.

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wheels

A Horse

With No Mane

If driving is your passion and performance is your goal, the Shelby Mustang GT350 is sure to please.

BY DAVID A. ROSE The 1960s saw automobile manufacturers pushing the limits when producing performance cars. The public loved these machines: the more power under the hood, the more love. In 1965 one of the most desired performance cars was introduced: the Shelby GT350 Mustang. With a modified 289-cubic-inch V8, this car produced 306 horsepower. To enhance the hype, 34 of these cars were built specifically for racing in the Sports Car Club of America’s B Production class, where they won the national championships in 1965, ’66 and ’67. In 2015 the Shelby GT350 Mustang celebrated its 50th anniversary at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion, where dozens of these magnificent vehicles were on display and on the track at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca.

For sports car enthusiasts who reminisce about the glory days of the 1960s, there’s good news: Ford Motor Company has resurrected the iconic marque with an all-new Shelby GT350 Mustang.

Carroll Shelby’s original concept of transforming an excellent road car into an extraordinary road racing car is apparent in this sixthgeneration Mustang, the most nimble, best-balanced and most powerful Mustang to date. Ford offers two engine options: the 2.3liter EcoBoost with twin-scroll turbochargers (310 horsepower and 320 ft. lbs. of torque) and the 5.2-liter V8 (producing over 500 horsepower with more than 400 ft. lbs. of torque) matched to a lightweight six-speed manual gearbox. Like the models built in 1965, there’s one color only: Wimbledon white with Guardsman blue rocker stripes.

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I recently drove the Shelby GT350 Mustang with 2.3-liter EcoBoost at Lime Rock Park, and although this is the milder version, it felt like a race car as it traversed the 1.5-mile course. The vehicle scored high marks for handling, braking and acceleration.

Performance is crucial to a car lover, but so is styling. “Everything we changed on the GT350 is purely function-driven design,” says Ford design director Chris Svensson. “We optimized the aerodynamic shape of the car and then fine-tuned what was left to increase down-force and cooling airflow. All bodywork from the windshield forward is unique to this high-performance model, and up to two inches lower than the Mustang GT.” More than 9.2 million Mustangs have been sold since being introduced in 1964. The new Shelby GT350, true to its heritage, might be the greatest of them all.

Art Walks the Runway tickets & information at kmacmuseum.org

April 16, 2016 DESIGNER

Frances Lewis MATERIAL

Hair Extensions MODEL

Centria Harris PHOTOGRAPHER

Staci Marie PHOTO ASSISTANT

Perry Wooldridge STYLIST

Jakeva Thompson HAIR STYLIST

Nikki Gore MAKE-UP ARTIST

Keisha Mink

travel

Brijuni

The elusive islands of Croatia.

BY STAN WILLIAMS

ne of the first decisions you’ll have to make when planning a trip to the secluded archipelago of Brijuni off the Istrian coast of Croatia is whether to book a Socialist-era room or an updated one in the only hotel on the main island of Veli Brijun. (Anyone who knows of my love of history and vintage style can guess what my Croatian-born partner and I chose for our late-summer stay.)

Part of Italy until after World War II, it was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945. Previously the private getaway of the late Yugoslavian president Josip Broz Tito, the islands, designated a national park and opened to the public in 1983, now go by their Croatian name, Brijuni.

Over the years, friends who have visited this oasis urged us to prioritize it as a destination, as rumors have circulated about a large hotel chain or moneyed developer eyeing it as a prime location for an exclusive resort. So far, the chatter has been just that, and a stay today continues to recall the mid-1950s, accented with a splash of modern luxury.

But the allure of a bygone era remains, from the original

Above: An aerial view of the Brijuni islands.

Left: A column from the remains of a 1st-century Roman villa.

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IMAGES COURTESY OF BRIJUNI NATIONAL PARK

light fixtures in the bar to the Mid-century headboard in our pleasant, semi-Socialist-era room in the Neptun-Istra building. It was a step up from rooms in the Karmen, where bare-boned but comfortable rooms start at €33 (about $38) a night. But even in the Istra wing, which has undergone a thorough renovation, the most expensive rooms cost €292 (about $330), a bargain for many U.S. travelers. Lodging includes a generous breakfast buffet. (Pay an extra dollar and order coffee from a waiter; it’s worth it.)

Transfers to and from Veli Brijun, the main island among 14 smaller islands, are also included. It’s reachable only by ferry from the town of Fažana, where those arriving by car must leave their vehicles in a private parking lot reserved for Brijuni guests.

What our room lacked in updates—no air conditioning (didn’t need it!), thin mattresses, uncoordinated furniture—it made up for in pure charm. Ceilings soared; the space was more than 450 square feet including a gigantic bathroom; and our spacious private terrace offered a to-die-for view of the entire harbor spotted with yachts bobbing dreamily in the Adriatic Sea. Besides, why spend any more time than necessary in a hotel room

while vacationing in a lush national park? Days are better spent swimming, both on a nearby beach and in the many hidden nooks around Veli Brijun. There’s also a safari park that prides itself on protecting endangered species, world-class golfing and tennis, and romantic pathways among ancient Roman ruins.

The sole way to get around the island, other than on foot, is by bicycle or golf cart. There are few restrictions on where visitors are allowed to venture, but private residences reserved for Croatia’s political elites and areas used by the military are off limits. Since the island can accommodate only those who arrive via ferry, overcrowding is never a problem. While riding over the paths that loop through the island, it felt as if we were the only ones there.

A rainy day is a good excuse to walk through the Tito Museum, where photographs of high-profile visitors are on view; Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida were among the president’s many guests. Museum-goers can even take a spin in Tito’s restored 1952 Cadillac Eldorado, which he endeared with the name “Victoria,” or just take a photo with her for a couple of dollars.

Dining options are limited, so reserving an outdoor table for the Hotel Neptun-Istra’s evening meal is strongly suggested. While not extravagant, service is excellent and meals run about $35 per person, including a delicious glass of Istrian white Malvazia.

But then who’s thinking about food when a spectacular view of the sea beckons attention? At 11 p.m., a sudden stillness settles in as the last ferry makes its way back to the mainland, leaving us to ponder the mysteries of this magical island.

The island, part of Italy until after World War II, was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945.”

Clockwise from top left: An updated room in the Istra hotel; an ancient olive tree dating back to the 4th century; guests at the entrance to Brijuni’s Safari Park.

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designers

WORK IT

OUR FAVORITE MEN IN FASHION TALK FIRST JOBS AND SURPRISING JOURNEYS TO THE TOP.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON My first real job was actually unpaid since I dropped out of school (truth be told I was kicked out). My father helped me get a trainee job at a local hotel where I cleaned rooms, worked with the maintenance team and helped out in the conference center.

I think my father thought that because I was doing this rather boring job at 16, I would reconsider my decision to drop out and return to school. I can’t say I enjoyed working at the hotel but at least I learned I never want to work at hotels. I enlisted in the army at 17 against my will and I was out of the hotel world after six months.

After 10 months in the army service and another less successful career at a reception job, I moved back to my old hometown and applied for a position in the warehouse at Eton. That was my first job in the business. I was about to turn 19 and through Eton I heard about a sales rep position at Harrods in London. I got the job and that became the starting point to my career in fashion.

I love working at Eton because of my colleagues. I get to travel to so many interesting places, I find time to play with my band, Highly Sedated, and I have a genuine passion for what I do. I have found a profession that I enjoy doing so much so it rarely feels like I'm working. That has got to be the ultimate feeling. I guess it's a matter of finding what you love and then going out of your way to do it. I have worked hard to get where I am today, but the rewarding everyday feeling makes it all worth it.

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My first job was in London, folding shirts in a shop for £25 a week. This position eventually led me to my current role because I was (and still am) the best folding man around! The best part about my job as CEO of Isaia is that I wake up in the morning happy to go to work…

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