Winter 2016 / 2017 Elegant Journeys Latitudes

Latitudes

Elegant Journeys

Issue 10 • Winter 2016 / 2017 Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Photography lesson of lupin flowers in Iceland

Keeping It in the Family: Travel Trends from the Desk of Mollie Fitzgerald 2016

Traveling as a family is so “in” and takes many forms. Multigenerational families are celebrating milestone birthdays on safari, parents are extending business trips to include a family getaway in Europe and Asia, and we see grandparents hosting grandchildren one at a time for a special trip of their choosing. Creating memories for the next generation is one of the best investments (with guaranteed big dividends), but it also requires careful planning to cater to diverse interests and maximize precious time together. At Frontiers, these are among our very favorite projects to take on and where we feel our talents really shine!

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new trend that I’ve observed is the important role that children now play in planning the trip: many times I am presented with a 12-year-old’s bucket list, a savvy teen’s hotel research on Trip Advisor, or a 9-year-old flat out refusing to go to Argentina (as a result reinventing the entire family holiday).

We’ve long known that keeping kids engaged and happy on a trip equates to happy parents, but this level of engagement takes it one step further. I find myself copying children on itinerary proposals, compiling age-appropriate reading lists, scheduling after-school conference calls, and waiting for parents to make hotel selections after they’ve had a chance to visit web links with their kids…a fascinating but total role reversal. While we have certainly had to adapt a bit, this enthusiasm and inclusiveness excites us…because the next generation already has the travel bug.

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The world is on sale! The US dollar is stronger than ever, and there has never been a better time to explore our world.

Compared to two years ago, we have 42% increased buying power in post-Brexit England, 22% in “Euro-land,” 23% in New Zealand, and a whopping 50% improvement in Russia. The experts at Frontiers are poised to put this currency-exchange advantage to work for you to make your travel dollars go further.

To this end, we’ve had staff in the field exploring each of these destinations so we have our finger on the pulse beat of new and exciting experiences. And don’t forget about our neighbor to the north, Canada, where our dollar has strengthened 25%—frankly, things feel downright cheap. When a long haul seems out of the question, we have great ideas just across the border—whether it’s a theater weekend in Toronto, a driving itinerary in Nova Scotia, or a rail trip in the Rockies.

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Museums are reinventing themselves and often provide us with the inspiration to travel. I was moved by a talk from the new director of Pittsburgh’s Frick Museum, Robin Nicholson: “No longer are museums mausoleums where old art goes to die.…

Empty echoing halls are transitioning into light-filled contemplative spaces with a constant sense of discovery.…There’s always something new around the corner.” Frank Gehry’s Foundation Louis Vuitton in Paris, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, and C. F. Moller’s new wing at the Royal Maritime Museum in Greenwich are reshaping our ideas about museums. Their goals are to attract first-time visitors, dispelling the myth that it’s a “members-only institution,” and to personalize the museum visit. We say BRAVO! Exhibitions are becoming much more interactive. London’s Victoria & Albert Museum will present “What Is Luxury” (April 25–September 25), and instead of assembling a lot of priceless material objects, they’ve chosen to “interrogate ideas of luxury rather than define it.” For example, what would luxury mean to the last man on earth? Perhaps time and space are the greatest luxuries. I can’t wait!

I recently ventured out of my comfort zone to a distant neighborhood of London called Wapping to check out Annie Leibovitz’s “Portraits: New Women” exhibit that had just opened.

It was housed in a very cool industrial warehouse space (a former hydraulic power station) with 20 metal folding chairs for viewing the portraits, which were projected on two huge screens as a

slide show. This was the very antithesis of a traditional museum space and yet it worked! The portraits reflect the changes in the roles of women today and feature women of outstanding achievement including artists, musicians, CEOs, politicians, writers, and philanthropists. Many of the subjects were recognizable (Barbra Streisand, Jerry Hall, Meryl Streep, Queen Elizabeth, Aung San Suu Kyi), and others were ordinary people—all fascinating as seen through Annie’s lens.

I can’t tell you how many clients flocked to Paris to see Ralph Lauren’s sports-car collection recently exhibited, how many of my fashionista friends are bound for San Francisco to pay homage to the Oscar de la Renta Perspective, or what a draw Art Basel is in Miami each December. My pulse quickens just thinking about the exquisite treasures in the newly opened Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, which I visited last summer. Art in all of its many forms is definitely worth traveling for!

The cultural anthropologist in me comes out at the oddest times when I travel, often trying to unravel the “whys” of a certain culture, overthinking things from my vantage point and through the filter of my own subjectivity. I came across a line in Lily King’s brilliant novel, Euphoria, based loosely on the life of Margaret Mead, that really resonated with me: “Our perspective can have an enormous wingspan, if we give it the freedom to unfurl.” I’ve embraced this and remind myself to spread my wings and fly! n

Table of Contents Introduction and Notes from the Editor................................2-3 Where We’ve Been Lately.............................................................4-9 What’s Caught Our Attention.................................................10-18 Remembering Susie Fitzgerald................................................... 19 South Pacific New Zealand.................................................................................20-21 Australia..........................................................................................22-23 Bora Bora.......................................................................................24-25 Society Islands..............................................................................26-27 Asia Eastern & Oriental Express Train.............................................28-29 Japan...............................................................................................30-31 Nepal...............................................................................................32-35 Europe Ice Hotel in Norway.....................................................................36-37 Prague.............................................................................................38-39 Bavaria’s Schloss Elmau.............................................................40-43 Brittany: Celtic Corner of France..............................................44-45 Canal Barges in Europe..............................................................46-47 River Cruises in Europe.................................................................... 48 Chantilly..........................................................................................50-51 Enchanting Gardens of England..............................................52-53 Aldourie Castle in Scotland.......................................................54-55

Travel with Elegant Journeys Frontiers Hosted Trips................................................................56-57 Europe Continued...

Madrid, Barcelona and Seville..................................................58-61 Venice Revisited...........................................................................62-65 Roman Holiday.............................................................................66-69 Africa Multigenerational Family Safaris..............................................70-71 Classic Kenya................................................................................72-73 Safari and Beach Extensions........................................................... 74 On Safari for the First Time........................................................76-77 Namibia’s Skeleton Coast................................................................ 78 South America Galapagos Islands........................................................................80-83 South America News..................................................................84-85 Belize: A Birder’s Paradise.........................................................86-87 United States Alaska with UnCruise Adventures...........................................88-89 Southwestern Pennsylvania: Nemacolin...................................... 91 Getting There Defining First.................................................................................92-95

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Eileen Datt with Shaun Scrooby from Adventura Africa in the Cape Winelands

Where We’ve • Two winter trips to the idyllic Bavarian hideaway Schloss Elmau, and nearby Garmisch, Innsbruck and Salzburg.

• Multiple trips to London, inspecting all of the latest and greatest hotels including Corinthia, Beaumont, Ham Yard and The Dorchester; but the highlight was the reopening of our favorite, The Goring, after its lobby renovation—and meeting the Duchess of Cambridge!

• An introduction to Nepal by helicopter, including Kathmandu, Pokara and the Annapurna Mountains, Upper Mustang, and the magnificent Himalayan Range.

• Rediscovery of St. Petersburg and the fabulous new Four Seasons Hotel, the Fabergé Museum, and the little-visited but splendid “Mon Plaisir.”

Lynda McDonough Un-Cruising in Alaska

• A winter trip to Norway featuring a trendy new design hotel in Oslo, The Thief, as well as chasing Northern Lights, snowmobiling, and a stay in an ice hotel.

• Incredible India and attending the annual Sufi Musical Festival in Jodhpur…highly recommended.

• Channeling George and Amal Clooney at the Aman Canal Grande in Venice, a stunning 21st-century renovation of a historic palazzo.

• Two trips to Miami, whose art scene is cutting-edge… what an impressive urban renaissance!

• Half a dozen staff trips to Iceland; we have unparalleled knowledge of Reykjavík hotel options and loads of great ideas for exploring the countryside.

• Ecuador to explore the Galapagos with Lindblad Expeditions, inspect our recommended hotels in Quito and its surrounds, snorkel with sea lions, and go horseback riding in the Andes. Hacienda Zuleta was a highlight; the Plaza Lasso family’s authentic hospitality will make you feel you’re visiting old friends at their historic hacienda.

Mollie Fitzgerald, Anne Burgard, Henrietta Strutt and Leigh Buches overlook rooftops of Reykjavík

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• Argentina and Chile to inspect the finest hotels in Buenos Aires, Mendoza and Santiago; Atacama, the driest desert in the world; and the majestic Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia. We were thrilled to see exciting new Virtuoso properties in the wine country, such as Casa de Uco in Argentina’s Uco Valley and Viña Vik in Chile’s Millahue Valley.

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Continued •••

Been Lately Jill Jergel at the Eilean Donan in the Scottish Highlands

Sarah Guest horseback riding at Vinã Vik, Chile

Kristene Fitzgerald with Belcampo chef Renee Everett about to prepare some conch ceviche after “snorkeling for lunch,” Belize

Cindy Smith before boarding the Belmond Eastern & Oriental Express train

Eileen Datt with the Himba Tribe in Namibia

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The Duchess of Cambridge meets Mollie Fitzgerald at The Goring Hotel

Sarah Guest in the Galapagos Islands with Lindblad Expeditions

Where We’ve Been Lately • Peru to inspect all of our recommended hotels in Lima, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Cusco, from the Belmond and Inkaterra properties to the hidden gems of Palacio Manco Capac.

• French Polynesia aboard the m/s Paul Gauguin from Tahiti and an incredible stay in an overwater bungalow at the Four Seasons Bora Bora with snorkeling, spa and unbelievable service.

• Four staff trips to Africa including Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, viewing wildlife, enjoying walking safaris, horseback riding, dune riding, hot-air ballooning, fishing, cultural visits, adopting a baby elephant, and checking out the latest and greatest hot new lodges.

• A review of Stockholm hotels and a day trip to the Swedish Royal Palace as well as Drottningholm, the summer residence of the Swedish royal court, and the Fotografiska Museum.

• Ireland to explore Dublin’s top hotels, the remote reaches of County Donegal, and the stunning Ballyfin.

• Australia to attend the Luxperience Show with onsite visits to Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island, Emirates Wolgan Valley, Longitude 131 at Ayers Rock, and Bamurru Plains in the Northern Territory.

• Belize to host a group at Belcampo Lodge near Punta Gorda with birding, snorkeling, touring the organic farm, and learning about Mayan culture.

• The American West for private Snowcat skiing with visits to the top resorts, plus Utah and Montana and multiple staff visits to The Ranch at Rock Creek, one of the premier guest ranches in the West.

• New Zealand to experience the Maori culture in Rotorua, the wineries of Nelson, sea kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park, hiking from Blanket Bay Lodge, and outdoor pursuits in Queenstown and Doubtful Sound.

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• Amsterdam for a thorough look at special-interest tours in the city and surrounding area, including an exciting early morning visit to the vibrant Aalsmeer flower auction.

• A delightful visit to the Black Forest’s rich culinary and wine offerings throughout the Baden-Württemberg region of Germany.

• Southeastern Alaska on the Wilderness Explorer expedition ship with Un-Cruise, which included hiking the rainforest, kayaking the sea, getting close to the glaciers, and visiting the small towns and villages of Alaska.

• The best of Florence, Tuscany and Rome.

• A fresh perspective on the European River Cruise scene with three separate staff trips on our two favorite all-inclusive luxury lines to experience onboard hospitality, quality of active shore excursions, and caliber of meals and overall service onboard. We’ve also refined our options for pre- and post-cruise touring and recommended hotels.

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Continued •••

Cory Van Horn at the Royal Zambezi Lodge in Zambia

Kathy Schulz with Frontiers’ adopted elephant, Mbegu, in Nairobi

Onboard Belmond’s luxury Rhone River cruiser, Napoleon

Mike & Kristene Fitzgerald checking in at Ballyfin, Ireland

Mollie Fitzgerald at the sexy new terrace bar at Miami’s Faena Hotel.

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Casa de Uco owner Juan Tonconogy in Argentine wine country with Sarah Guest

Beth Kurcina on a private visit to the Strahov Library in Prague

Where We’ve Been Lately • Multiple trips to France, from Brittany to Provence and from Normandy to the Alps, on and off barges, in and out of hotels, spending time with guides, to determine what is great to recommend—and what is not.

• An autumn week in the Highlands of Scotland with local drivers, collecting travel tips and suggestions enhanced by their expertise, sampling some new country-house hotels and some oldies but very goodies, plus learning the latest on the Edinburgh hotel scene.

Frontiers hosted group attending the Sufi Festival on the ramparts of the Jodhpur Fort

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• Switzerland revisited with a focus on beautiful Lausanne and the multitude of interesting and active excursions available there.

We were so impressed with the Swiss Travel System’s efficiency and ease—amazing rail service and funicular access to pristine villages— while offering a front-row seat to alpine vistas.

Mike & Kristene Fitzgerald departing by chopper, Wharekauhau, New Zealand

Hank Ingram summiting the notorious 401 Trail in Crested Butte, Colorado

Sue Szakelyhidi discovering French Polynesia aboard Paul Gaugin Cruises

Mollie Fitzgerald atop Kongde looking at Everest in the distance

Kristene Fitzgerald and Sue Szakelyhidi exploring Kangaroo Island, Australia

Mollie Fitzgerald and daughter, Abby, Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg

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What’s Caught Our Vienna: Bristol Hotel—Live Streaming from the Vienna Opera House In the months of April, May, June and September, selected opera and ballet performances from the opera house on Ringstrasse are broadcast live on a 50-square-meter LED video screen outside the opera house. Five remote-controlled HD cameras ensure top quality, and the opera house’s own director of photography is responsible for the final outstanding product. The audience can thus enjoy performances in a relaxed atmosphere in the open, and naturally with free admission. And what better vantage point than the comfort of your own room at the Bristol Hotel, which conveniently faces the opera house?

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Vienna: Schönbrunn Palace’s Grand Suite Experience the splendor and majesty of the royal court!

Schönbrunn Palace is the former imperial summer residence of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth (known as “Sisi”). Now you too can stay at one of Vienna’s most exclusive addresses (and one of the nation’s best-known cultural attractions) as you follow the footsteps of the emperor at night, when the palace is deserted and free of tourists, amateur photographers doing selfies, and posing couples. If you want to personally experience the luster of imperial Vienna—or if you just want to feel like royalty—you will not find a better place to stay in the Austrian capital than the exclusive 1800-square-foot, two-bedroom Grand Suite in Schönbrunn Palace. The view from the suite of the 160-hectare palace gardens, taking in the Gloriette, Neptune Fountain, and Crown Prince Garden, will leave you in no doubt that you are at the cultural and political heart of the former Habsburg Empire, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Cost is approximately €700 per person per night.

• Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com

London: The Stafford Hotel One of our favorite and most competent London concierges, Frank Laino of The Stafford hotel, hosts walking tours for in-house guests around the St. James’s area in which the hotel is idyllically located. About three hours in duration and €350, this tour is a unique opportunity to gain insight into this exclusive and storied neighborhood. Frank describes the tour as follows: It all started with one of the most famous kings of England, who wanted a new palace for his second wife. Learn how after Henry VIII built the palace of St. James’s, this part of London became one of the most exclusive and sought after in the city, and it remains so to this day. Hiding along and behind the bustle of the main street there lies a wonderfully preserved corner of London, rich in history and colour. We will visit some of the oldest and most iconic shops in London, including the oldest hat shop and the oldest wine merchant. We will talk about the coffee shops turned gentlemen’s clubs and the many famous personalities who lived in this area, including the famous St. James’s “fashionistas,” and how a little candle shop became one of the most exclusive retailers in the world. We will talk about the architecture of the area and walk by some of the most exclusive residences, including those of some of the members of the royal family.

And speaking of The Stafford…we are delighted to advise that Stuart Proctor is back as the General Manager.

Attention London: The Berkeley Hotel— Calling All Fashionistas Prêt-à-Portea—We love The Berkeley’s stylish twist on the quintessential English tradition of high tea, Prêt-à-Portea. From delicately piped clutch bags to killer heels in short pastry, Prêtà-Portea is The Berkeley’s daily homage to haute couture as each season’s signature items step from catwalk to tea stand.

Their pastry chef’s inspired collection of taste-as-good-asthey-look delicacies is wowing fashionistas the world over.

Prêt-à-Portea

The Fashion Trunk—Playing “dress up” is not just for little girls! Now grown-ups can join the fun too, in the privacy of their hotel suite. This summer, The Berkeley once again unveiled its one-of-a-kind fashion trunk, curated by Europe’s leading digital vintage fashion boutique, Vestiaire Collective. Designed to celebrate the very best of vintage, the handcrafted trunk features an exquisite collection of rare accessories and clothing from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s by leading designers for suite guests to borrow. So whether you’re heading for a night out at the BBC Proms or an impromptu day at Goodwood, this treasure trove can transform your look for a day or even help out in a wardrobe emergency; and if you can’t bear to part with your new favorite piece, you can purchase it and enjoy it forevermore.

Continued •••

The Berkeley’s Fashion Trunk

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Palazzo Margherita Palazzo Margherita is the realization of renowned director Francis Ford Coppola’s dream to convert a 19th-century palazzo in his grandfather’s charming hometown into a nine-room, luxurious boutique hotel. In 2004 Francis purchased the Palazzo, built in 1892 in Bernalda by the Margherita family and affectionately referred to as “Bernalda Bella,” believing it was time to introduce visitors to this stunning and still undiscovered region.

The surrounding countryside, which dates back to Greek and Roman times, produces sumptuous fruits and vegetables as well as the Aglianico grapes used to make wines of the same name.

Just 50 miles from the airport at Bari, and nestled between the ancient cities of Metapontum and Matera, the area is rich with history, including haunting primordial cave dwellings called Sassi di Matera (meaning “stones of Matera”), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is just 20 minutes from numerous pristine, white-sand beaches; one can choose between quiet seclusion or beach-club action and shoreside tavernas. While the nearby region of Puglia has become popular for sightseeing, Bernalda

is one of a few beautiful towns where the food and wine have remained authentic and untouched by mass tourism. The townspeople welcome visitors with a genuine hospitality that makes every guest feel like a local.

The Palazzo has been completely restored by Coppola and acclaimed French designer Jacques Grange, who have created a luxurious, authentically Italian experience that ushers guests into a private world of palatial comfort, surrounded by gardens, courtyard and swimming pool, all just steps from a small, bustling town in which the visitor is a friend and neighbor rather than a tourist. Francis wanted the Palazzo to become a place his children would want to visit again and again, and therefore invited the whole family to contribute ideas to the design. The interior is styled with tiled floors as well as Moroccan- and Baroque-inspired hand-painted fresco ceilings. Grange designed some of the exotic tiles and furniture, including one of the most beautiful suites, which is in a Tunisian style to honor Coppola’s Tunisian-born grandmother. All of the floors in the Palazzo have been restored from the original marble.

What’s Caught Our

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Amenities include a screening room with 100 Italian films personally selected by Coppola, plus an eat-in kitchen where guests are taught to make pasta by hand and a delightful café at the front of the Palazzo, the Cinecittà Bar. Overlooking Bernalda’s town square, this traditional café and pizzeria spills out onto Bernalda’s main street and is a perfect spot for people watching, mingling with the local life, and sipping delicious Italian coffee, all of which is supplied by Illy.

If you are searching for authenticity and unspoiled Italy, look no further. This has captured our imaginations in the biggest possible way!

Continued •••

Attention

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What’s Caught Our Attention Lavish Layovers

While no one likes the idea of a long airport layover, sometimes, based on prevailing air schedules, one is simply unavoidable. So why not make the best of the situation? Here are three of our favorites at top international getaway cities.

Frankfurt: Villa Kennedy

Los Angeles: Ritz Carlton Marina del Rey

Frankfurt International Airport is a great hub for travel between Europe, Asia, Africa, and North America—and Frankfurt’s finest address is just ten minutes away! Take the stress out of a long stopover at Villa Kennedy, the city’s most luxurious hotel and the perfect place to revive and recharge between your connections. Their Luxury Stopover package includes round-trip private airport transfers, an €85 food and beverage credit, a 30-minute anti-jet-lag massage, and day room use.

Escape from the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles International Airport to the tranquil waterfront setting of the Ritz Carlton Marina del Rey. Just 14 minutes from the airport, this 300-room property offers a Lavish Layover package that includes overnight accommodations, round-trip airport transfers, a $25 hotel credit, full breakfast, and your choice of a full-day bicycle rental for two or a one-hour tennis lesson.

Delhi: Oberoi Gurgaon Less than 15 minutes from Delhi’s busy airport lies the Oberoi Gurgaon, an oasis of perfection and the perfect place to recharge your batteries before your next flight connection (and Delhi is famous for middle-of-the-night departure times). Their stopover program includes planeside meet-and-greet, round-trip airport transfers in their fleet of BMW sedans, a 60-minute jet-lag massage in their 24/7 spa, unpacking services via the Oberoi Butler Service, luxury accommodation, and full breakfast.

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Continued •••

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What’s Caught Our Attention Montreal: The Colder the Better If freezing temperatures and mountains of snow are not enough to induce chronic hibernation, Ritz-Carlton Montreal is giving guests even more incentive to check in and snuggle up indoors in front of a roaring fire. The hotel’s newest package, “The Colder the Better,” is available for all suites with fireplaces, where guests automatically save a percentage off their room rate based on the temperature outside below zero. Negative 15 degrees upon check-in? Save 15%. If the mercury dips further, save even more.

Four Seasons Lâna’i Reopens The secluded island of Lâna’i offers a glimpse of the Hawaii of yesterday: unspoiled, unhurried and unequaled. You won’t find any stoplights, traffic or fast-food restaurants. Instead, in just 90,000 acres, you can explore an astonishing range of landscapes—from secluded beaches where you won’t see another soul to cool, misty mountains that are a paradise for hiking and horseback riding. On this one-of-a-kind island, the fully transformed Four Seasons Resort Lâna’i presents a visionary new vacation experience. After an 18-month head-to-toe renovation, the resort now features 213 ultraspacious guestrooms and suites, multiple dining experiences such as the signature One Forty and Nobu Lana’i, spa and wellness, a complimentary activity program and children’s club, and luxury retail boutiques as well as tennis and the 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Signature Manele Golf Course.

And in spite of all that is new, they have continued the Torch Lighting Ceremony tradition, which starts at 7:00 p.m. with the Pu¯ Blowing (referring to the Hawaiian name for “conch shell”) to say goodbye to the day followed by torch lighting.

With late winter and early spring temperatures in Montreal typically hovering around –10 C, Ritz-Carlton Montreal’s “The Colder the Better” package equips guests with everything needed for the perfect night in the city, without the frostbite. The package includes suite accommodation with fireplace; herbal teas or hot chocolate, chocolate-flavored marshmallows, and spiced Speculoos cookies in-room; cocktails at Maison Boulud; breakfast at Maison Boulud; complimentary parking; and complimentary late checkout—all at the discounted room rate based on the below-zero temperature outside on the day of arrival!

Las Vegas: K-9 Concierge Services at the Delano Delano Las Vegas, a non-gaming, non-smoking boutique alternative, offers signature suites with an optimal solution for those in possession of “K-9 companions,” as all dogs are treated with the same white-glove service and modern conveniences as their human counterparts. A selection of dog-friendly rooms and a tasty room-service menu as well as a fully capable sitting service are just a few of the amenities offered. The Doggie Butler Service includes “Check in and Check Up” (they stop by the room, check on your pet, and send you a text message), “Fast Break for Fido” (quick potty breaks outside), and for those dogs in need of the whole nine yards, “Plush and Pampered” (which includes a daily walk, change of water, grooming, and time spent visiting your pet in your room).

Continued •••

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What’s Caught Our Attention

Delhi: The Leela Palace We were astonished to learn that this sumptuous New Delhi hotel flies in over 10,000 fresh roses daily to keep their spectacular floral arrangements fresh and perfect…talk about unabashed luxury! Located in the exclusive Diplomatic Enclave, the Leela Palace New Delhi brings a new level of elegance to India’s capital. The 254 guestrooms, as inviting as they are opulent, offer top-end comfort, service and technology. Starting at 550 square feet, they’re the largest in the city. Guests can enjoy the ESPA spa facility and dine in the renowned Le Cirque, which opens its doors in Asia for the first time, or the Japanese specialty restaurant, Megu.

Vancouver: Calling All Foodies for “Off the Eaten Track” Eat like a local and experience some of Vancouver’s most interesting neighborhoods with the award-winning “Off the Eaten Track” culinary tours! With themed departures like “Railtown’s Urban Eats,” “Sip, Savour, Shop on Main,” and “Gourmet Ice Cream Tour,” there is something to please every palate! New for 2017, those traveling to Banff can indulge in poutine, maple syrup, craft beer and nanaimo bar on the “Canadian Culinary Experience” tour.

Cory Van Horn exploring Vancouver with his guide, Kate

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Mallorca: Channel Your Inner Artist at Belmond La Residencia The charming coastal village of Deia has long been a magnet for artisans, attracting poets, painters and sculptors for decades to its cobbled streets and hidden ateliers. Wanting to both celebrate this artistic tradition of the area and offer its guests more than just a classic hotel stay, Belmond La Residencia initiated an “Artist in Residence” program and offers master classes in painting, sculpting, portraiture, ceramics, and linocuts to in-house guests.

There are even special classes held for children. In addition to learning to “express yourself visually,” guests enjoy wonderful walking trails through the Tramuntana Mountains (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), fabulous outdoor pools, a relaxing spa, and great restaurants. Discover this 67-room gem for yourself!

Shanghai: Cruise Along the Bund in Your Own Private Yacht!

Frontiers’ top pick in Shanghai, the iconic Peninsula Shanghai, on the historic Bund, offers spectacular views of the Huangpu River, Pudong, and Shanghai’s skyline. Blending art deco glamour with traditional Asian opulence, the hotel has launched the Princess 54, a luxurious 54-foot yacht offering scenic private cruises along the Huangpu River for up to 10 guests. Moored at Dream Wharf, just 10 minutes from the hotel, it has been fitted out with a range of Peninsula amenities. Guests on board can enjoy a bespoke sunrise breakfast, lunch or dinner or perhaps champagne and canapés as they take in the city’s breathtaking Pudong skyline from the unique perspective of the Bund, which is always a hive of activity. We think this would be great for a proposal! Rates start at about $1200/hour. n

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Photo courtesy of Doug Oster | Trib Total Media

In Memoriam: Susan Burt Fitzgerald 1939-2015 On August 20, 2015, we lost a great lady. Susie Fitzgerald was the other half of the famous “Mike and Susie Fitzgerald” team that founded Frontiers in 1969 and not only created the sporting travel trend which is the norm today but set the standards for how patrons of the sporting industry should be looked after. As she always used to say “Michael handles the forest, and I handle the trees” and that is exactly how it was.

The standards she set have not changed, indeed we still all strive to keep to her standards today.

She almost single-handedly introduced the world to the Rio Grande, and to Christmas and Alphonse Islands among others. As a supplier, if Susie Fitzgerald believed in you, you were on your way.

There was no greater enthusiast or optimist.

She will be greatly missed by us all.

Africa Revealed: A Journey by Private Jet 21 Days | February 17-March 9, 2017 | $92,500 per person, double occupancy

Around the World by Private Jet: The Tropics to the Arctic 26 Days | May 1-26, 2017 | $129,000 per person, double occupancy

Around The World with Geoffrey Kent: An Inspiring Expedition by Private Jet 24 Days | October 1-24, 2017 | 147,500 per person, double occupancy

Around the World by Private Jet: Cultures in Transformation 26 Days | February 8-March 5, 2018 | $135,000 per person, double occupancy

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New Zealand Kia Ora, Welcome to New Zealand

By Kristene Fitzgerald

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e planned a return trip to New Zealand in April, which is a lovely time to travel as the country is easing into autumn in the Southern Hemisphere.

We made six stops in 10 days, trying to maximize our short time, and two

of our favorite stays were at Otahuna Lodge and Blanket Bay Lodge.

Otahuna Lodge We made the scenic 30-minute drive from Christchurch into the countryside to Otahuna Lodge, one of our top recommendations in the entire country.

Set in pastoral surroundings, Otahuna is a stunning Victorian mansion that is consistently ranked as one of the top food-and-wine resorts and international hideaways in the world.

The home was built in 1895 for Sir Heaton Rhodes, a high-profile pioneer of Canterbury, and his wife, Jessie. The name Otahuna is Maori and translates as “little hill among the hills.” The owners have taken New Zealand’s largest private historic residence and revitalized it with luxury accommodations, glorious gardens, and sophisticated cuisine.

Otahuna Lodge has seven spacious suites, and our favorites are the Rhodes and the Veranda. We stayed in the Veranda Suite, which boasts an incredibly large bedroom and adjoining private Two golf courses in New Zealand rank in the World’s Top 100

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bath—larger than virtually any bathroom we have seen internationally. Off the bedroom, the second-floor balcony offers splendid views of the manicured gardens and is a superb place to enjoy a cup of hot coffee in the morning.

There are lots of sights to see in this region. A short drive away is the Canterbury Wine Region, which is becoming well-known for its Riesling and Pinot Noir wines. The soils of the region are stony and alluvial. The climate is hot and dry in the summer and often cool, clear and frosty in the winter.

Another popular day trip is a visit to Akaroa, a picturesque seaside town that has retained many of its 19th-century public buildings and cottages. Akaroa, settled by French immigrants, offers charming shops and restaurants, as well as hiking and sailing. Active guests also have the opportunity to swim with the world’s rarest and smallest dolphins, the Hector’s dolphins.

As a Relais & Châteaux property, Otahuna offers one of the best culinary experiences in New Zealand. We had an incredible five-course tasting menu paired with top New Zealand wines, which was arguably our best meal Down Under.

We particularly enjoyed the pan-seared yellowfin tuna and Asian vegetable salad, complemented by a Gisborne Chenin Blanc. The Canterbury duck breast was also exquisite with a Waipara Pinot Noir.

Blanket Bay Lodge Situated on Lake Wakatipu near the eclectic town of Glenorchy sits the magnificent Blanket Bay Lodge. Even though you can easily reach the lodge within an hour of the Queenstown center, we suggest you consider it as an overnight destination to complement your stay in town. You can easily spend a few days here as well as in Queenstown and have two very distinct experiences.

The five lodge rooms and seven lodgeand-chalet suites all have private bathrooms, super-king beds, sumptuous sofas and chairs, and spectacular lake views. On-property amenities include a spa, a whirlpool with glass doors opening to spectacular views of the Remarkables Mountains, an outdoor pool, a game room, a gym, hiking trails, horse riding on the adjacent Wyuna Station, and a new boat soon to be launched.

There is also a helicopter based next door for scenic heli-excursions to Milford Sound, as well as backcountry fly fishing and a wine tour of Central Otago. Heliskiing is available in the winter. Other popular activities include a jet-boat trip on the Dart River, a high-country hike with a naturalist, and trekking on the Routeburn Track, one of the most popular scenic hikes in the country.

With nightfall arriving early in the autumn season, heaters and wraps are also available to chase off an evening chill if required. For a truly intimate dining experience, request a table in the property’s wine cellar.

Unforgettable Experiences in New Zealand: White Island in the Bay of Plenty is a 30-minute helicopter ride off the coast of Whakatane. There is virtually no vegetation on the island; instead the appeal is the spectacular view of active steam vents called “fumaroles,” dramatic sulphur formations, hot streams, and the steaming crater of the volcano itself. Walking on the crater floor is a truly unique experience.

New Zealand is a walker’s paradise with a multitude of trails over very diverse landscapes ranging from remote beaches and rugged coastal cliffs, through farmland, wetlands and river valleys, to high-country tracks with dramatic mountain ranges. Besides some of the more-notable hikes like the Tongariro Crossing day hike, we can also organize multiday hikes such as the Milford or Hollyford Track in Fiordland National Park with a knowledgeable guide who can provide additional insight into the flora and fauna and also handle any safety concerns for less-experienced hikers. You will only carry personal belongings that you need for the day; everything else is provided along the way.

Marvel at Mother Nature’s light display as you raft along the subterranean Waitomo River and gaze at the myriad of starry glowworms lighting the limestone walls. As you enter this galaxy of tiny living lights, you will immediately experience a serene ambience and be fascinated and intrigued by the glowworms that light the way.

Whale-watching tours from Kaikoura offer exciting, up-close encounters with the world’s largest toothed predator, the giant sperm whale. Giant sperm whales are the stars of the show and year-round residents, but you may also encounter New Zealand fur seals, pods of dusky dolphins, and the endangered wandering albatross. Depending on the season, visitors may also see migrating humpback whales, pilot whales, blue whales, and southern right whales.

Since the introduction of trout to New Zealand in the late 1800s, the country has emerged as a favorite angling destination. Fishermen from all over have recognized New Zealand as the world’s best wild-trophy-trout fishery. The majority of the rivers on both North and South islands are known for their clarity, and their reputation draws travelers from far and wide in search of giant trout.

New Zealand is a world-class golf destination with two courses ranking in the World’s Top 100, Kauri Cliffs and Cape Kidnappers. Rounding out a trip could include the Kinloch Club on the North Island and The Hills and Jack’s Point from Queenstown on the South Island.

This country produces some exceptional wine, from crisp Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough to the awardwinning Central Otago Pinot Noir. Follow the Classic Wine Trail from Hawke’s Bay through Martinborough and across the Cook Strait to Marlborough. This route produces 70% of New Zealand’s wine. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Unforgettable Experiences in

Australia

By Kristene Fitzgerald and Sue Szakelyhidi

EACH SEPTEMBER IN SYDNEY, the luxury trade show Luxperience is held to showcase South Pacific properties and ground operators specializing in high-end experiential travel. My colleague Sue Szakelyhidi and I made the trek and found this to be a great opportunity to connect with some of our favorite lodge and property managers, and also to learn about new and exciting things happening in the South Pacific. We also took advantage of our time to visit a few properties in Australia. Here’s what’s caught our attention Down Under.

Whether you are staying in Adelaide or this is a stopover en route to Kangaroo Island, we recommend the Connoisseurs Adelaide Market & Barossa Valley Tour. Operating Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, the tour takes you through the Central Market Stalls, sampling the multicultural fare before heading to the Barossa Valley. Here you will experience an incredible lunch with visits to some of the finest wineries in the region, including Seppeltsfield, Penfolds, Rockford, Yalumba and Torbreck.

For the adventurer looking for an outback experience in Australia’s Top End, spend three nights at Bullo River Station cruising the Bullo River Gorge, exploring Aboriginal rock art sites, fishing for

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barramundi and other river species, cattle mustering and station-related activities, and horseback-riding or quad-bike tours.

Then take a one-hour helicopter flight to Bamurru Plains for a stay in safari-style tents. Activities include river cruising, 4WD safaris, and game viewing by airboats on the floodplains.

Capella Lodge is located on Lord Howe Island, the world’s southernmost coral reef. This volcanic island has a diverse landscape ranging from mountainous natural forests to pristine beaches.

Activities include snorkeling and scuba, as well as a glass-bottom boat for those less inclined to be in the water. The island is also home to a number of rare birds, plants, geology, and marine life.

Emirates One & Only Wolgan Valley: Sue Szakelyhidi

Lizard Island is the property to stay at to explore the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. The island is a 60-minute flight north of Cairns to Australia’s northernmost island beach resort, located right on the Great Barrier Reef. The Villa is the newest addition to the property, sitting atop the ridge with spectacular views of the clearblue Coral Sea. The secluded location, private plunge pool, and private dining with your own personal chef make this a perfect retreat for honeymooners or to celebrate a special occasion. Besides the host of activities on the property, you can also dive and snorkel the Inner or Outer Reef, or charter the MV Fascination for private diving or fishing for black marlin from September to December.

If you’re traveling to Tasmania, it’s worth exploring the Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail. The Cradle to Coast Trail showcases some of the region’s local producers and spans the northern coast from Devonport to Stanley and inland to Deloraine.

Tasmania is also home to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), located within the Moorilla Winery in Hobart, and the largest privately funded museum in Australia. Tasmania also has some great trout fishing and unique flora and fauna to explore.

The Kimberley region tends to be off the beaten path, which means it does not make many travelers’ itineraries. The remoteness of the Kimberley can be accessed a bit more easily, though, when you explore this region aboard a small charter ship, which gives you access to areas where larger ships cannot go. For something a bit more adventurous and a great introduction to the region, True North offers the seven-night Kimberley Snapshot Cruise, as well as other itineraries based around the seasons.

For the ultimate experience, True North also has a full-time helicopter on board for further exploration of this untamed, naturally beautiful wilderness. n

Just a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the hustle and bustle of Sydney finds you at the doorstep of the World Heritage–listed Blue Mountains. Located between the Wollemi National Park and the Gardens of Stone National Park, the Wolgan Valley resort offers 36 onebedroom Heritage Villas, each with a private plunge pool, double-facing fireplace, ample living space, and private deck. The three two-bedroom Wollemi Suites and the single threebedroom Wolgan Villa are perfect for families or a honeymoon hideaway.

There is no shortage of wildlife, with opportunities to see wallabies, wallaroos, wombats and kangaroos. I arrived in the late afternoon, and my first adventure was the 4WD evening wildlife tour on the property—a perfect introduction to Wolgan Valley. Our informative guide gave us a crash course on these fascinating marsupials. The “joey” (baby kangaroo) remains in its mother’s pouch for seven to eight months then becomes its mom’s shadow until about 18 months of age. Two highlights of this excursion were watching two young “boys” boxing with each other (kick-boxing at its best!) and seeing the albino wallaroo that makes Wolgan Valley its home. We also saw wombats scurrying into their burrows (which can tunnel up to 30 meters underground).

Each suite offers complimentary mountain bikes, which I thoroughly enjoyed, and it was great to get a bit of exercise and explore the property on my own. I ventured out to Platypus Platform for an enjoyable ride prior to lunch. Be sure to also allow time afterward for a pampering treatment at the Timeless Spa, where the treatment rooms open up to breathtaking views of the surrounding cliffs and canyons.

The on-property organic gardens supply the kitchen with seasonal fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs throughout the year and are complimented by locally sourced Blue Mountain organic farms, private growers, and vintners. I especially enjoyed the three-course tasting menu, which is a smaller version of their degustation tasting menu.

If conservation and wildlife are high on your agenda, without compromising on luxury, then be sure to pay a visit! n

Longitude 131° Ayers Rock: Kristene Fitzgerald In conjunction with Luxperience, I planned to visit seven properties in total (58 hours and 15 minutes of flight time combined!). By far, I was most looking forward to the two nights at Longitude 131°.

Located in the heart of Australia, this property is the quintessential glamping experience. With 15 tents all with unobstructed views of Uluru and the desert landscape, this is a great base to explore the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

Sundown at “The Rock” is not to be missed, as the ever-shifting light reflected over the rock is constantly changing from oranges and pinks to vibrant reds as the sun sets. The perfect ending to the evening was dinner at Table 131° under the stars while being entertained by Aboriginal dancers and a didgeridoo player.

Besides the long list of included activities, other private adventure options from Longitude 131° include camel rides, Harley Davidson motorcycle tours, scenic helicopter and plane flights, and bush tucker tours.

Now through March 31, 2017, experience Field of Light, a special solar-powered installation from Bruce Munro. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Perfect Paradise Perched in the South Pacific!

by Kristene Fitzgerald

As we were planning our familiarization trip to New Zealand, we received an incredible invitation from Four Seasons Bora Bora to see the property with a group of Preferred Partner Agents. If you get invited to Bora Bora (especially by the Four Seasons!), do not look at the calendar—simply accept and pack your bags! Staying in an overwater bungalow at Bora Bora in French Polynesia has consistently been at the top of our bucket list, and with nonstop air service from Auckland, we jumped at the opportunity!

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f Bora Bora had synonyms, they’d be adjectives along the lines of “romantic,” “majestic,” “sublime,” “stunning” and “awesome” to say the least. Stepping off the short 160-mile Air Tahiti flight from Papeete, you are greeted with views of Mount Otemanu towering over the turquoise waters of the atoll. Often rated as the most romantic island in the world, Bora Bora is famous for its “aqua-centric” luxury resorts. Even 18th-century British explorer James Cook named it the “Pearl of the Pacific.”

The open-air Bora Bora Airport has aircraft on one side and boats—the only transportation to the hotels—on the other.

On arrival, we were met and welcomed by a gracious Four Seasons staff member with flower leis. We were then escorted

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to the hotel’s private boat and presented with a moist towel and an ice-cold bottle of water for the short 20-minute cruise to the hotel property.

The Four Seasons Bora Bora opened in September 2008. With 100 overwater bungalows to choose from, there are lots of accommodation options, some of which have two bedrooms and plunge pools, and all at over 1000 square feet—plus seven beachfront villas (perfect for those who are looking for a bit more privacy or families traveling together). Our onebedroom villa had beautiful views of the lagoon and the beach with a spacious living room, a gorgeous bathroom area with views to the water below, and a lovely king bedroom with floor-to-ceiling doors opening to views of the ocean

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and a nice deck. Without question, the accommodations far exceeded our expectations.

There are four restaurants with cuisine ranging from a nice sandwich poolside to sushi on the beach at the Sunset Bar to fine dining at Arii Moana. The food quality, presentation and variety were remarkable—especially considering Bora Bora’s remote, island location. There are also weekly Polynesian shows, beachfront BBQs, and in-bungalow dining on your own deck: Breakfast is delivered via outrigger canoe.

There are lots of activities available both on property and around the island: sea kayaking, paddleboarding, offshore fishing, taking the water taxi to the major

Mike and Kristene Fitzgerald enjoying a farewell dinner at Arii Moana, Four Seasons Bora Bora

settlement of Vaitape for a great lunch and shopping, learning about black pearls in a private presentation, parasailing, having a private picnic on a beach with your own captain and boat, and climbing Mount Otemanu. One of our favorites was booking a jet-ski tour around the entire island, which was a ton of fun and allowed us to see a number of the other hotels.

There is also wonderful snorkeling right at the resort, which is home to the Ruahatu Lagoon Sanctuary, a research facility and home to over 100 species of marine life.

An on-staff marine biologist conducts ongoing research, teaches the principles of conservation to guests on daily tours, and grafts coral in an effort to further the development of the lagoon.

Another of our favorite excursions was snorkeling with rays and sharks. We were met by our local Polynesian guide (who was quite a character) and taken to three great snorkel sites. The first stop, swimming with the rays, was incredible.

There were lots of sharks in the area too.

Once we figured out that they were not a threat, it was a delight to be with both species in the shallow lagoon.

The resort also offers a full-service spa, which was named the No. 1 Spa in French Polynesia by Condé Nast. The spa facilities, adjacent gym, and private relaxation pools are among the very nicest we have ever experienced. We highly recommend a couples treatment in the Lagoon Suite. There are glass floors over coral heads, and you can watch the tropical fish during your massage…truly incredible!

We then went to the reef and loved swimming with the myriad of tropical fish.

Our last stop was in deeper water just off the reef, where we enjoyed a lot more shark time! Afterward, we had a delightful lunch on a private island complemented by a couple glasses of cold white wine.

The Four Seasons Bora Bora was a wonderful way to end our South Pacific sojourn. Whether you want to stop on your way home from New Zealand or take it in as a stand-alone holiday, we highly recommend this Pacific gem! n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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The Best Way to Visit

French Polynesia’s Society Islands

by Sue Szakelyhidi

If your dream has always been to “get away from it all,” the tropical French Polynesia is the perfect place to escape.

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long-time dream finally came to fruition this past fall when my husband and I had the opportunity to join a seven-night cruise on the m/s Paul Gaugin through the Society Islands.

We explored secluded lagoons and the intriguing ports of Huahini, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Moorea.

Each day Paul Gauguin Cruises provide multiple shore excursions, creating a customized experience. Alternatively, guests are welcome to stay on board to enjoy enrichment lectures presented by renowned archaeologists and marine biologists, learn the art of Tahitian dance and jewelry making, attend a presentation by the chef, or simply bask in the sunshine on the top deck. Once a week, a Tahitian blessing ceremony takes place for any couple wishing to renew their wedding vows.

One of my personal highlights from this experience was the tranquil day on Motu Mahana, a private island on Taha’a, where you can partake in snorkeling, use the

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complimentary kayaks, swim, or just relax on the white-sand beach with a barbecue lunch. We snorkeled with black-tipped sharks, stingrays, and a school of colorful tropical fish in a coral garden, a oncein-a-lifetime ecosystem experience only available in French Polynesia!

The only thing missing onboard the m/s Paul Gaugin was more time. I highly recommend a pre- or post-cruise landbased extension at the Four Seasons Bora Bora or selecting a 10-night cruise itinerary (or longer) to include stops in the Cook Islands, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Fiji, and Tonga.

The m/s Paul Gaugin is a purpose-built ship designed specifically to cruise through the crystal-blue waters of Tahiti.

Launched in 1997, she carries a maximum capacity of 332 guests and a crew of 214, who anticipate your every need. As a member of Virtuoso, Frontiers is able to offer amenities such as shipboard credit and cabin upgrades on select sailings across their portfolio. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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All Aboard in

Southeast Asia

by Cindy Smith

After living my life in the northeast United States, I grew tired of the snow, and for many years, I have been exploring the Caribbean, Central America and Europe looking for places to retreat to in the winter. But last fall when an opportunity arose to travel to Southeast Asia, I jumped at the chance to explore a new destination and see how diverse it is from my travels so far.

M

y trip was hosted by Kai, Belmond, and Destination Asia with air by Delta. I flew to Singapore, and after 26 hours of travel time, we arrived in the middle of the night and were met by our driver and guide, who whisked us to the hotel.

We spent the next two days exploring the city by foot, “tuk tuk,”

boat and car. Over the last five years, this tiny island nation has been transformed from a shopping haven into one of Asia’s largest cultural centers.

But the highlight of the trip for me was our mode of travel from Singapore to Bangkok aboard the Belmond Eastern & Oriental Express train. This three-day, two-night journey through Malaysia and Thailand promised stops in Kuala Lumpur, the town of Penang with its markets and temples, the River Kwai Bridge station, the Thailand-Burma Railway Center, and the Dan Rah War Cemetery.

As interesting as these sites are, the train itself is also a destination. The elegantly restored interiors of the train feature exquisite marquetry and teak paneling. The rooms are well laid out, with a comfortable sitting area by day turned into twin beds at night. Breakfast is served in the cabin each morning by your steward while you travel at a slow pace, watching the world unfold. Children walking to school, workers in rice fields, monkeys playing in trees, all ignored us as we passed. It was interesting to see everyday tasks from a whole new view.

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Presidential Cabin in the night configuration

Outdoor observation area

After breakfast, it was a good time to explore the train and its variety of guests. There are a library, a small gift shop, and even a masseuse on board, but the main meeting area is the colonialstyle Observation Car at the back of the train where everyone congregates for talks on our destinations or for some local entertainment. Part of the carriage is outdoors, providing some great photo opportunities. There was an interesting mix of guests on our trip—six countries were represented, and ages 35 to 85.

Lunch and dinner are served in two sittings in one of two Restaurant Cars located in the middle of the train. The chef and his staff work in a very small galley kitchen and produce some amazing meals—from appetizers to desserts, it seemed like each meal was better than the last. After dinner, most of us went back to the lounge to discuss what we had seen that day and talk about what was in store for the next.

Our arrival in Bangkok was sensory overload after the tranquility of the train: traffic, congestion, noise and masses of people everywhere.

My train trip was only two days, but the Eastern & Oriental Express also has a few longer journeys. This would also be a great way to begin or end a cruise. And if you aren’t planning a trip to Southeast Asia in the near future but would like the train experience, consider one of Belmond’s other trains: the iconic Venice Simplon-Orient-Express or the new Grand Hibernian in Ireland. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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What’s New in

Japan

by Sarah Guest

New bullet train routes makes visiting Japan’s western coast more convenient

Amanemu, Nagi Suite

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Traditional fan painting, Kyoto

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apan is one of my favorite places in the world. I lived in the rural Miyagi Prefecture for several years as an English teacher and grass-roots cultural ambassador with the JET Programme. I also received my MA in East Asian Studies from Duke University and spent a summer in Kanazawa and Kochi researching the relationship between pop culture and tourism in Japan. As a result I speak fluent Japanese, which helps with making reservations at remote “ryokan.” Though I’ve spent a lot of time in Tokyo and Kyoto, my favorite places to explore are in the countryside, hiking in the mountains, going to festivals, and staying at “onsen” hot springs resorts.

My takeaway for travelers headed to Japan is this: As a woman traveling alone, the most remarkable thing about Japan is how safe it is. I have never been anywhere I felt more comfortable walking in a city at night. No matter where you are, strangers will go out of their way to help you. The spirit of hospitality is very much alive here, and with a great conversion rate making travel affordable, and festivals and stunning scenery in all seasons, it is a fantastic time to go to Japan.

Aman Tokyo and Aman Emu Noted for peaceful resorts in iconic locations, Aman has opened a new urban resort in the heart of Tokyo. Aman Tokyo showcases Japanese design sensibilities, creating a peaceful, modern retreat at the heart of one of the world’s busiest cities.

The view from the pool is spectacular.

New in 2016, Aman Emu is opening in Mie Prefecture. This will be a hot-springs resort, a quintessentially Japanese luxury spa, where you can take in the green countryside or visit the grounds of the nearby Ise Shrine, the holiest shrine in Japan, where the goddess Amaterasu is said to dwell.

Ramen Restaurant Receives Michelin Star Not only does Tokyo have more Michelinstarred restaurants than any other city in the world, it is reinventing the sort of food we think of as deserving Michelin stars.

In December 2015 the tiny ramen bar Tsuta, where one of the signature bowls of tender noodles and pork will run you about $10, joined the ranks of Tokyo’s Michelin stars. What you save in cash on this amazing meal you’ll pay for in time; the line

usually stretches around the block. You have only to look at the faces of the people leaving to know it’s worth the wait!

Luxury in the Historic Heart of Japan Voted No. 1 of Travel + Leisure’s top 10 cities to visit in the world, Kyoto is the cultural heart of Japan. As such, it is an attractive destination for the world’s finest luxury-hotel brands. 2015 saw the opening of the Ritz Carlton Kyoto, an ideal base from which to explore the city with the scenic riverwalk along the Kamogawa steps from your door. And we look forward to the opening of the Four Seasons Kyoto in 2016.

Japan by Private Jet For a comprehensive Japan experience in places both iconic and off the beaten path, we suggest traveling by private jet with TCS World Travel. Their “Secrets of Japan” journey takes you from Tokyo to Kyushu, with exclusive access to cultural experiences like a private tour of an ancient monastery with calligraphy and meditation lessons, or an evening of “maiko” entertainment in Kyoto. n

New Bullet-Train Routes In March of 2015 the new Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet-train line began service.

Now you can get from Tokyo to the renowned gardens and traditional tea districts of Kanazawa in an easy 2 1/2 hours! This new route has opened up a number of exciting places on the western coast to convenient travel. In March of 2016 the new Hokkaido Shinkansen opened, connecting Aomori on the northern tip of Honshu to Hakodate in Hokkaido. Before, you had to fly or take the ferry to visit Hokkaido. Now you can reach it from Tokyo via Japan’s comfortable, high-tech bullet trains.

The view of the Tokyo Tower from the pool at Aman Emu in Tokyo

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Namche Bazaar, a village on the trail to Everest Base Camp (elevation 11,286 feet)

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Naturally at Home in S

Nepal

by Mollie Fitzgerald

ticking proudly out of the cloud cover, the mighty Himalayas came into view. Everyone on the plane gasped and pulled out cameras; shutters were flying. After several aborted attempts (due to low visibility), we finally landed, and I stepped into 78-degree sunshine, pinching myself the whole time that I was actually in Kathmandu, a city whose name—the way it rolls off your tongue—has as much romanticism and exoticism attached to it as Timbuktu. Our guide, Sanjee, gave us many interesting insights into both Nepal, a country of 27.1 million—the size of Wisconsin—and Kathmandu, its capital city with population 4 million. On the same latitude as Cairo and Jacksonville, Florida, it enjoys a subtropical climate but is cooler due to the elevation at 4297 feet. I had no idea that Nepal was 81% Hindu and just 9% Buddhist and would have predicted it the other way around, but it is interesting how the two faiths have blended into the everyday spiritual fabric of the people.

Though rich in natural beauty, it is a poor country with average per capita income just $1200 a year. Its recent past has been tumultuous with the country’s transition from monarchy to democratic republic only in 2008 and the constitution yet to be written. It is difficult to synthesize the highlights of this trip into a few words because there were so many. We literally went from one euphoric experience to another—from “IMAX moments” in helicopters to blessings from a living goddess—but here are a few that burn brightly in my memory:

The worship, unique to Nepal, of prepubescent girls as living goddesses, believed to be manifestations of the divine female energy or devi in the Hindu faith. This practice is known as kumara, which comes from the Sanskrit word for “virgin.”

Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu, a history lesson in itself with its priceless collection of Nepali handicrafts, carved window frames, and objets d’art, some dating back to the 13th century.

The International Mountain Museum in Pokara, dedicated to every aspect of the mountains from culture to climbing, geology to mythology. Photographs, memorabilia, and even some of the rudimentary equipment used in early expeditions offer a fascinating collection. On my trip, it was a timely introduction to the mountains—our home for the next four nights—and we pondered why humans have such a magnetic attraction to the mountains and, for some, an unquenchable desire to conquer them.

Jonsom, the gateway to Mustang (pronounced “moos-tang”), which is situated at 9000 feet, and the 60-room Mustang Mountain Resort that faces the 7061-meter peak, Nilgiri.

Sipping cider in the winding cobbled streets of Marpha—and we’re not talking Marfa, Texas!

Continued •••

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Dinner with His Majesty, the Crown Prince of Mustang, consisting of delicious Tibetan soup, served familystyle, in steaming samovars with hot coals in a center tube that kept the contents literally boiling hot! Glass noodles, chicken, vegetables, and deep-fried condiments on top…nothing not to like!

The Living Goddess

The 600-year-old capital of Mustang, Lo Manthang, a highelevation desert and the home village of the Crown Prince (who traces his succession to the throne back 26 generations), and supposedly one of the last strongholds of pure Tibetan culture.

A “fly-in” breakfast at Mala Lodge facing the 6993-meter “Fish Tail” in the Annapurnas.

Landing at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in colorful Lukla at 2860 meters. Referred to as “the most dangerous airport in the world” (some would say “most thrilling”), its short, 35-degree angled runway dead-ends into a mountain face.

The hospitality and convivial atmosphere of Yeti Mountain Homes.

Buying a painted yak skull in Namche Bazaar—and my tales of getting it home!

Learning about the Sherpa people. “Sherpa” literally means “people of the east,” one of Nepal’s many ethnic groups, and is not just a professional tag for the high-altitude guides and porters who have gained international fame. It is also the surname of most of these sturdy mountaineers.

Champagne breakfast at Kongde (14,025 feet) on a bluebird day with Everest in the foreground, prayer flags fluttering, and a 360-degree view of the mountains…omelets oozing with gruyere cheese, and fresh croissants!

Decompressing at Dwarika’s Resort, a destination spa in Dhulikhel an hour outside of Kathmandu and the perfect place to “reset” after action-packed days in the mountains. Ayurvedic treatments and farm-to-table cuisine helped!

Rainy-day retail therapy in Kathmandu—it works!

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Who should come to Nepal?

I see two broad categories: The culturally curious. I was fascinated by how Hinduism and Buddhism were so comfortably enmeshed in the spiritual fabric of everyday life; equally, the opportunity to see the last pure strains of Tibetan culture in Mustang is like taking a step back 500 years in time.

The adventure seekers. From hard-core mountaineering to soft trekking, from paragliding with hawks to birding, Nepal offers rewarding pursuits for anyone with a genuine love of the outdoors. The Himalayas serve up a heady dose of adrenalin!

Having explored the Himalayas in Bhutan, the Yunnan Province of China, and Darjeeling and Ladakh on the Indian side, I came to Nepal to round out my understanding of these grand peaks and the distinctive people who dwell amongst them. The impetus of the trip was an invitation from my friend, Rebecca Slater of Rebecca Recommends, who is the U.S. representative of Ventours, a Bombay-based onsite that specializes in bespoke itineraries on the subcontinent and is super-well connected in Nepal.

I was not sure what to expect from Nepal, but my experience there was overwhelmingly positive. They operate with SWAT-team efficiency. My expectations were vastly exceeded, mostly by the genuine warmth of the hospitality we received from our Nepali hosts, who “get it” and gave us the highest possible compliment: “The mountains have accepted you.” There are not words to describe the grandeur of the mountains, and I know this will not be my only trip to Nepal, for I already feel drawn to return. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Norway’s Ice Hotel

By Mollie Fitzgerald

I didn’t pause for even a nanosecond to accept an invitation to speak at Villaksen I Nord, a conference dedicated to the challenges facing wild Atlantic salmon held in Alta, Norway, last February. I have fished the legendary Alta River for each of the past 21 summers and developed a deep-seated love for the place, its people, and the mighty fish that call this river home. I’d often fantasized around the campfire with my boatmen about visiting Alta in the winter with tales of snowmobiling to distant cabins, skies lit by Northern Lights—and an overnight in an ice hotel. Talk about ticking things off a bucket list! This speaking engagement was just the impetus I needed to realize my dream.

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s always, I packed with care for this trip: fleece layers, furs, flashlights, hand warmers, and serious muklukstyle boots. Get out your maps and check out just how far north Alta is at 70 degrees north—well above the Arctic Circle, and a two-hour nonstop flight from Oslo.

Known as “The Land of the Midnight Sun,” this part of the world has 24/7 daylight in summer when I usually visit, and total darkness from mid-November until the sun makes its first appearance as it did this year on January 24. We enjoyed about six hours of daylight during our stay—from 8:35 a.m. to 2:38 p.m.

A dark, snow-covered town glistened upon our arrival. As if on cue, the Northern Lights appeared as we were driving from the airport, and we noticed people taking photographs on the side of the road (although I doubt they turned out, as you need a tripod, and patience, for the at-least 90-to-120-second exposure). We could hardly wait to drop off bags, check in, set up cameras, and drive off into the crisp, clear night, away from the town’s lights, to capture this

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northern wintry phenomenon that is in no way a sure thing! I have a client, who shall remain nameless, on a lifetime quest to see the Northern Lights, and Mother Nature has not cooperated, so I felt blessed and sent him a quick text.

We had one full day to “play” before the conference began, and it was akin to an Arctic Ironman competition: snowmobiling, beholding the frozen banks of the Alta River, dinner with royalty, and the pièce de résistance, an overnight in an ice hotel! Our summer fishing guides, Bjorn and Trond, collected us in the bluish morning light with Arctic Cat ATVs in tow. We stopped by Bjorn’s house to don insulated boots, ski pants, helmets, and goggles and set off to the starting point with great anticipation. I realized that it’s been several years since I was last on a snowmobile and was suddenly filled with apprehension—I’d forgotten just how fast you go, and add to that fierce winds and blowing snow that resulted in practically zero visibility…Needless to say, I held onto Trond for dear life as he deftly maneuvered us across the frozen tundra

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and alpine lakes at breakneck speed. The only signs of life were two teams of sled dogs practicing for an upcoming race.

Our destination was Bjorn’s parents’ weekend cabin tucked up in the mountains and only accessible by this unique means of conveyance. The smiling faces of Randi and Bjornoff were a welcome sight—as was the warmth of cabin! A bucket of snow was melted to make water for tea, and we feasted on enormous bars of milk chocolate.

It was an exhilarating but exhausting day—I think I used up a lot of energy just holding on, but happily I did not fall off, and there were no casualties. After a successful day of fishing, we finally retreated to our motel in town to review the three pages of instructions on how to prepare for our ice hotel overnight, and to dress for our special dinner, which would officially kick off the salmon conference, with His Majesty, King Harald of Norway, in attendance. The intimate dinner for 36 guests was taking place at Sorrisniva, a fitting venue as it is also the name and

Fantasy location of one of the most famous beats on the river and a personal favorite of my late father. Many memorable summer evenings have been spent around the campfire there, and we’d heard tales of the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel, the genius invention of my friend Hans Ulrich Wisloff, who was one of my father’s first boatmen on the river. Hans Ulrich was there to welcome us, and we made a beeline for a tour of the ice hotel, which is amazing to say the least.

It is over 27,000 square feet, and both the interior and exterior are made entirely of snow and ice including the rooms, beds, armchairs, even the glasses in the bar. With 30 rooms and suites, a giant bar, a gallery with ice sculptures, and a wedding chapel that tops anything I’ve seen in Las Vegas, complete with reindeer-skin-covered pews, the hotel was beyond my wildest dreams. Pink and blue spotlights create evocative lighting.

The interior temperature is kept at about 21 degrees Fahrenheit. Next door is the heated “service building” with changing rooms, bathrooms, a sauna, a place to store luggage, and a staging ground for a myriad of winter activities. It also houses the Restaurant Laksestua, one of the best kitchens in town and situated in an attractive large wooden structure built to resemble a Sami tepee. We were ushered into the restaurant to meet one another over a glass of champagne and to review protocol for HRH’s imminent arrival.

Seated at one of three tables of twelve, I was beyond flattered to discover that I was placed directly opposite the king and would have the privilege of being his dinner partner. Other guests included the heads of the Alta fishing association, the mayor of Alta, ministers of the environment, distinguished scientists who would also be lecturing at the conference, and other international speakers and delegates. As I knew that the king is a keen fisherman and also fishes the Alta, the subject of fishing was an easy icebreaker, and I found him to be a charming and witty man with perfect English. An enjoyable evening was had by all. We tucked into delicious salmon served with asparagus and hollandaise, followed by a filet of reindeer and for dessert a mousse cake with cloudberry ice cream, all complemented by a 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

And then, as if in a Cinderella moment, at the appointed hour, we rose to our feet, the king departed, and my royal encounter ended. It was a heady night to remember, and a few of us remained for a nightcap by the fire to recount the details. But the ice hotel beckoned, and Hans Ulrich issued sleeping bags and escorted us to the Frozen Suite, which is comprised of a bed of ice laden with reindeer skins and two ice chairs. I was surprised by how warm it was inside the sleeping bag.

The king’s parting words to me had been “I hope you don’t turn into an ice cube overnight”—and we didn’t! n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Mucha, Mozart, Museums:

Three Days in Prague

By Beth Kurcina

Prague is a fascinating and vibrant city filled with well-preserved medieval architecture, having been spared the largescale destruction during the Second World War. If you have three days to explore this city, then I suggest you plan your itinerary around gawking at the building facades in Old Town, attending the plethora of musical performances, and visiting museums that offer an array of special interests.

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ne of the highlights of my visit to Prague was the library in the Strahov Monastery, where Frontiers can offer our clients an exclusive private tour of the two splendidly decorated halls, which are off-limits to the general public. The origin of the collections in the library dates back to the 12th century, when the monastery was founded in 1140 by King Vladislav, and soon after it became the center of intellectual and spiritual life in Bohemia. It is still a functioning library for academics and researchers, and overseen by the monks.

In addition to the jaw-dropping, massive book collection with 200,000 old prints and 3,000 manuscripts, the ceiling is painted with the most spectacular frescoes, the furniture is exquisite, and there are beautiful globes from the 13th century on which North America does not even exist. Also, their secret passageway, which I “hid” behind, will spark your sense of intrigue. Many

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movies have been filmed in the library, including one of my favorites, “Amadeus,” the incredible story of Wolfgang Mozart narrated by his peer and secret rival, Antonio Salieri.

And the monastery is just the beginning. One cannot visit Prague without experiencing the rich and deep classical-music performances offered throughout the day and evening in elegant concert halls, churches and music schools.

I had no less than thirty options to choose from during my visit and opted for the Czech Philharmonic Symphony, founded in 1896, performed at the famous Municipal House’s (Obecní Du˚m) Smetana Hall, Prague’s most prominent art nouveau building.

The incredible acoustics and extraordinary decorative details transported me back to the 19th century with a stunning rendition of Antonin Dvorak’s New World Symphony No. 9.

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In addition to fostering classical music, Prague is a haven for jazz lovers. After the Nazi occupation, jazz flourished and served as an expression of opposition to German music and as a yearning for freedom. You cannot cross the Charles Bridge without experiencing at least one or two jazz bands playing.

I had a very enjoyable evening on the “Jazzboat,” cruising the Vltava River on a moving stage with five Czech musicians performing a wide array of Dixieland tunes, while viewing the sensational beauty of Prague by night. Dinner was delicious with a choice of a traditional Czech dinner of pork medallions, bread dumplings, red cabbage, and homemade plum sauce or a homemade venison terrine with arugula, cranberries, and freshly baked pastries.

Old Jewish Cemetery next to the Pinkas Synagogue

Black Light Theater, a theatrical performance style characterized by the use of black boxes paired with fluorescent costumes and augmented by black illusion lighting, has become a specialty of Prague, and I attended a performance that was both interesting and unique.

Additionally, I visited the Alphonse Mucha Museum, named for perhaps the most famous Czech painter and decorative artist, who is best known for his distinct style of art nouveau illustrations, advertisements and postcards. It was his first poster of Parisian actress Sarah Bernhardt that made him famous.

One other noteworthy museum to visit while in Prague is the Communist Museum, which houses a variety of exhibits on Czech daily life, politics, education, media propaganda, and censorship in Communist Czechoslovakia before the Velvet Revolution in 1989. Ironically, the museum is located in the same building as a McDonald’s and casino—welcome, capitalism!

Beth Kurcina in Prague’s Communist Museum

For those interested in Central European Jewish history, I had the opportunity to visit the Jewish quarter of Prague with our expert guide, Martin. We began our visit at the Pinkas Synagogue, which was turned into the Memorial of Jewish Victims of the Second World War. Almost 80,000 names have been inscribed on the walls of this extremely simple but touching monument. A small room on the top floor houses a precious collection of drawings created by the children of the Terezin concentration camp.

Next to the Pinkas Synagogue is the Old Jewish Cemetery, where we viewed almost 12,000 tombstones jumbled together among the trees. The oldest gravestone is that of Rabi Avigdor Kara, who died in 1439. From the Klausen Synagogue we had a short walk to the Old-New Synagogue, which is architecturally the most interesting building of the ghetto and also one of the oldest preserved synagogues in Europe.

We continued our walk to the Spanish Synagogue, which was built in 1868 in a Moorish style. The rich polychrome and gilded stucco arabesques and other Oriental motifs together with an organ make this interior very different from other traditional Jewish

Strahov Library

religious buildings. I was quite moved by the extensive tour of Prague Jewish Quarter, particularly upon learning that the current Jewish population in Prague is fewer than 5,000 compared to the prewar population of 80,000 in 1938.

Prague is a spectacular city that offers a varied itinerary and is an ideal pre- or post-destination for a European river cruise; believe me, you will likely find it the highlight of your trip. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Bavaria’s Schloss Elmau: A Winter Wonderland

by Mollie Fitzgerald

General Manager Nikolai Bloyd with Mollie Fitzgerald and daughter, Abby

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• Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com

Less than two hours south of Munich, near the enchanted Bavarian town of Garmisch, lies Schloss Elmau, the most magical hideaway I’ve encountered in recent times. I visited briefly in 2014 and have been dreaming about it ever since. In January, accompanied by my daughter, Abby, and friends, I returned to experience the Elmau Retreat, an intimate 47-suite “hotel within the hotel,” which was under construction during my last stay and opened in spring 2015, just in time to host the prestigious G7 Summit last June.

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n our final approach, gazing out of the jet window at the lack of snow on the German countryside, I was more than a little worried that some of our outdoor winter pursuits would be scuppered. But those fears were allayed altogether, as there was considerably more snow as we started to gain elevation and make our way into the mountains—and then it proceeded to snow another 10 inches while we were there! It was a spectacular winter wonderland with boughs of stately pine trees heavily laden with snow.

We were welcomed warmly by my friend Nikoli Bloyd, an affable and handsome host who heralds from California and looks like an ex–surf star on “Baywatch.” He also happens to be a master sommelier and an extremely capable, energetic and intuitive general manager—one of the best I know. Abby and I were shown to Summit Suite #738, a capacious 125 square meters, which would be home for the next four nights. (It also happened to be where German Chancellor Andrea Merkel stayed during the G7!) Words almost fail me in attempting to describe the panoramic views—but let’s start with “jaw-dropping.” Three walls of the bedroom are plate glass, with French doors that open onto snow-covered balconies that must be wonderful in summer.

The bedroom is sparsely furnished in a Frank Lloyd Wright style so as to not detract in any way from the alpine wilderness that surrounds the property. The oversized bathroom and separate living room have amazing views as well.

Welcome amenities on the coffee table included a beautifully presented plate of German charcuterie and cheeses, still-warm soft pretzels, some gorgeous petit fours, homemade chocolates, and a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc (Nikolai remembered it is my favorite). There is high-speed complimentary and easy-to-use Wi-Fi everywhere in the resort (as it should be) and all sorts of high-tech gadgets in the room including multiple Apple TVs, a Nespresso machine, light sensors that turn on to 30% if you awaken in the night, and a Toto toilet with a 14-inch control panel. I never managed to quite figure it out, but the lid automatically senses your presence and opens and closes without you having to touch it!

We tucked into a Thai lunch at Tutto Mondo on the ground floor, still drinking in the stunning views. Even though the mountain peaks were obscured by low-lying clouds and snow flurries, it was spectacular. We indulged in much-needed 4 p.m. “physiorelax” spa appointments, and one of Schloss Elmau’s signatures is a bold-colored velour bathrobe for each guest—ours were teal blue and rosy pink. This was followed by a dip in the outdoor saltwater pool (heated to 98 degrees) while watching snowflakes melt on noses and eyelashes!

For dinner we ventured next door to the 100-room main hotel, “the schloss,” (also called “the castle”). Only a 100-yard walk or three-minute shuttle ride finds you at the Kaminstrubel (Fondue) Restaurant, which was a favorite from our prior visit. We felt fully indoctrinated into the region after both a cheese fondue for dipping bread and a broth fondue for shrimp, beef and veggies.

In addition, we were introduced to a white-wine-grape varietal, Grüner Veltliner, which we loved and which became our go-to drink—we were in “the Tyrol” after all! The wine’s dry taste, golden color, and slight effervescence are distinctive, and the best ones come from neighboring Austria.

Continued •••

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In spite of jet lag, I awoke early and dressed for a 9 a.m. yoga class; the hotel’s tag line for their program is “yoga without dogma,” which is great and less intimidating for anyone who has not practiced before. In addition to seasonal yoga retreats with visiting gurus, they offer two classes daily, usually at 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. The yoga studio is one of the most inspiring indoor spaces I’ve ever experienced, with a hardwood floor and huge windows with panoramic views. This morning was particularly stunning with heavy snow falling outside.

The next day was earmarked to enjoy the hotel, which is an oasis of calm. A lazy Sunday morning was enjoyed by all—mine started with an outdoor swim followed by the authentic Finnish sauna for as long as I could stand. I withdrew to read in the “relaxing room,” a solarium with upholstered chaise lounges, cozy lap blankets, and floor-to-ceiling windows, which I had all to myself. One of the tag lines in the Schloss Elmau quarterly magazine, “Libretto,” that really resonated with me was “a liberating sense of space and privacy,” and it was hard to believe at that moment that the hotel was full.

Feeling limber after yoga, we donned outdoor gear and hiking boots for our afternoon hike to the Alm Hutte, an uphill 90-minute ascent to an enchanting little hut where we’d enjoy an amazing lunch. Nikoli joined us and issued walking poles, which proved incredibly useful in the fresh inches of snow, in spite of the groomed trail. A sumptuous spread was laid for our arrival, including glühwein, apricot schnapps, and a potato-sausage soup, warming liquids that would gird me later for getting down the mountain. The idea was that we would hike up and sled down…something I’ve not done for decades. We had a choice of a wooden runner sled or a plastic “bob” (both of which looked as if designed for a 10-year-old), and there were five separate downhill sections. I started on the runner but quickly swapped out to a bob, as it was a bit easier to use my feet as brakes! It was great fun and fortunately there were no broken bones, only a few bruises that grew like continents on my legs.

At lunch, we encountered the violin maestro from the prior evening, chatted him up, and sent a bottle of wine to his table.

Still snowing steadily, it was the kind of weather that made you want to “tuck in” by a roaring fire for a long winter’s nap, but we instead braved the elements and went for a walk followed by the afternoon yoga session. We perused the hotel’s amazing oldfashioned bookstore with 16-foot ceilings lined with bookcases that require a sliding ladder to reach the upper shelves. There is a title to please every age, language and interest!

We got back to the hotel just as the sun set over the hill, and dressed for a symphonic concert that started at 7 p.m. Culture is an integral part of Schloss Elmau, and the hotel is host to over 200 events per year celebrating classical music, jazz, literature and debate. They have the perfect venue—a chapel-like hall with great acoustics—and admission is complimentary for hotel guests.

Tonight featured Jan Vogler on violin and Martin Stadtfeld on piano performing a Bach sonata. Afterward, we made our way downstairs for a tasting menu at the Italian restaurant, Fidelio.

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After much debate about what to do for dinner, we were irresistibly drawn back to the fondue restaurant for round 2, which was every bit as delicious as round 1, and I discovered that little bits of soft pretzel are outstanding when dipped in the melted cheese.

Sadly, Monday morning brought Abby’s departure back to the States, but we kept our early morning outdoor swim tradition, which she would later appreciate midway across the Atlantic.

Rewarded with a clear morning, we watched the full moon give way to a pink-hued sunrise as we plied the salty water. I’d thought that the views from our room were amazing during the past two days of snow, but today was even more dazzling with blue skies and brilliant sunshine, which belied the single-digit temperatures.

We had a big day planned with an excursion to Innsbruck, site of the ’76 Winter Olympics. Nikolai suggested we go partway

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by horse-drawn sleigh, and we set off swaddled under multiple layers of blankets and fur. It was a glorious day, and I felt like Julie Christie in her troika in “Dr. Zhivago,” stepping back in time. We clippity-clopped through the national forest that abuts the resort over the mountain and into the village of Mittenwald, which took almost two hours. The only people we passed en route were hearty souls out cross-country skiing.

Half-frozen, our driver drove us the remaining half hour over the border into Austria. Strolling around Innsbruck’s cobbled main square, we opted for lunch at the venerable Goldener Adler Hotel, whose charming Tyrolean restaurant did not disappoint. We ordered green salads and Wienerschnitzel for the table, served au natural with fresh lemons: outstanding. Now ready for a bit of retail therapy, and in search of cute Tyrolean clothes, we returned to Garmisch, the town closest to the hotel, and visited Grasegger, a Tyrolean clothing mecca, where Schloss Elmau guests receive a courtesy discount. We arrived in Garmisch after dark, and the snowy lanes still twinkled with holiday lights. We even managed to find a glühwein stand still serving its warm brew in Santa mugs during our mid-January visit! The staff was so nice and patient; they kept the store open late for us, and I decided to pop for a dirndl and was measured for the matching apron.

Our departure day was another bluebird-sunny day, and although it was sad for the holiday to be ending, the memories burn brightly and we know we’ll be back! It is a perfect venue for families (with entirely separate family spa, pool and children’s facilities), a romantic retreat for couples, an ideal destination spa for mothers and daughters or a girlfriends trip—and let’s not forget that great outdoors that beckons the sports enthusiasts with two downhill ski resorts within 15 minutes, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing! But it’s not just about winter…Schloss Elmau is open year-round, and the wildflowers in spring are rumored to be as sensational as the hiking during the summer. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Carnac Stones in Brittany

Making crepes

Breizh =Bretagne = Brittany: The Mystical Celtic Corner of France

By Jill Jergel

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ust as the local traditions and favored foods from one corner of the United States to another can be vastly different (chowder and baked beans in New England versus skillet cornbread and fried chicken in the Deep South), France has absorbed a wide variety of regional preferences into her Tricolore flag. The Germanic influences experienced in Alsace couldn’t be farther apart from the cypress trees, lavender and olive oils of Provence. The bright-red peppers and succulent hams from the Basque region are a world away from the elegant wines, boeuf bourguignon and escargots found in Burgundy.

Yet I was completely unprepared for the distinctively different identity the enchanting region of Brittany (that protruding “thumb” of land surrounded by the sea) revealed to me when I was recently a guest of the French Government Tourist Office for a week. Within an hour of my arrival at Quimper, I was sitting in the incredibly atmospheric, half-timbered Crêperie Les 3 Fees (Crêperie of the 3 Fairies) in the “plus beaux village” of Locronan, looking at the most-foreign menu I’d ever viewed in France while the roaring fire

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warmed our soggy toes. A variety of galettes—the savory buckwheat crêpes with choices of mushrooms, ham and eggs—was offered, and a generous jug of potent cider was plopped on the table.

When I scanned the menu top to bottom thinking I’d have a Chardonnay instead of cider, I found the most foreign of wine lists I’d ever seen in 40 years of traveling to France—“du Vin: Blanc ou Rouge,” meaning “Wine? Red or White.”

Very quickly I learned that the culinary customs of Bretagne, like the traditions, folklore and heritage, are all completely foreign to what most people envision when thinking of France. There is Celtic language on the street signs, and Celtic music and dance comprise a big part of the numerous regional festivals; Lorient’s annual summer Festival Interceltique pulls over 500,000 visitors from Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Cornwall and even the Louisiana Bayous. Legends and fables abound everywhere, including the saga of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table. In fact, the mythical Forest of Brocéliande—King Arthur’s forest (and apparently the location of Merlin’s spring of eternal youth, plus the home of his fairy mistress, Vivian, Lady of the Lake)—is reputed to be the Paimpont

forest located outside of Rennes, the regional capital. Even the local tourist office produces an Arthurian trail map to find mysterious fountains and something called “the Valley of No Return.” In fact, we saw fairies, crystals and many Sedonaesque ornaments and baubles everywhere in southern Brittany, called Morbihan.

Combine this “aura” with the massive and unexplained megalithic stones found all over Brittany’s south-central core—but primarily around Carnac—and you’ll understand that Brittany offers its own appealing cachet to the visitor.

Getting back to food, let’s not forget that fresh seafood, especially oysters and other shellfish, is among the chief culinary delights of Brittany. The exclusive and delectable hand-churned Bordier butters from Northern Brittany are the only ones used by the finest chefs in the country—and remember the abundant crêperies in each little town and village?

They all feature sea-salt butter caramel crêpes “avec crème,” which is its own divine decadence. Put Brittany on your bucket list—and let Frontiers help you explore the Thomas Kinkaid–like villages, medieval towns, and rugged coastline of this decidedly un-France-like corner of France. n

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Small Ship Cruising in Europe

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Consider Frontiers’ Handpicked Selection of Boutique and Luxury Canal Barges

By Jill Jergel

For 33 years, Frontiers has represented and recommended the canal barges in Europe that we believe offer the finest overall experiences—each with their own brand of hospitality and cachet. We are proud to be considered a respected broker of the barges by our peers and barge owners alike. Our portfolio of recommended barge options in Europe reveals a superb cross section of routes, levels of luxury, and budgets. We have no ownership of or fee-based bias toward any barge; some brokers do, and urge guests to book only “their” barges. Frontiers’ recommendations are 100% objective and based solely on our guests’ interests, preferences and availability.

What Exactly IS a Canal Barge Cruise?

We liken a week on a chartered canal barge to having your own floating house party in a private villa—with chef and chauffeur.

Cruising no more than 75 miles during a six-night cruise, guests unpack once and each day explore a beautiful corner of European countryside.

Days are spent learning local history, tasting regional treats, and becoming enlightened by classic European culture while traveling through French, Irish, Scottish, German, Dutch or English countryside.

Our barges are never larger than 12-passenger, six-cabin vessels, and several on the historic Canal du Midi (one of France’s oldest inland waterways located in the south) carry only four passengers—simply ideal for a family or girls’ getaway.

Frontiers as a company has 46 years of experience coordinating international travel; we work as a team with our clients to design their trips and plan all arrangements. We have a designated air department offering attractive contract fares and schedules. In addition to forging long-standing, close relationships with many small hotels in Europe, Frontiers is a member of the prestigious agency consortium Virtuoso as well as a Four Seasons Preferred Partner, a Belmond Bellini Club member, and a member of the Dorchester Collection’s elite Diamond Club. These affiliations provide added value and extra amenities to hotel room rates such as receiving a full American breakfast at no additional charge, plus food and beverage credits. Enjoy “one-stop shopping” by calling Frontiers, and receive a quality travel experience from the initial planning process to your return home.

Continued •••

Daily excursions with the barge’s English-speaking driver / guide are included, and independent cycling or walking on the towpath is normally a daily option. If you have chartered the barge for your own exclusive use (we consider this the preferred experience), you may request alternative activities with a specific interest such as antique shopping, additional wine tastings, or regional “foodie” explorations.

In short, expect authentic experiences with locals, private entrée experiences, deliciously fresh and healthy (and occasionally decadent) cuisine, attentive service, and plenty of active options.

Benefits of Booking with Frontiers With our excellent knowledge of Europe’s canals and rivers, we are uniquely positioned to describe the experience on a luxury 12-passenger barge cruising the Rhone River through Provence—versus taking a quality, brand-new 130-passenger Rhone River ship. We can compare the details of these two trips against our travelers’ expectations, so that you make the best decision for your journey.

Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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River Cruising

By Jill Jergel

A Frontiers Niche Specialty for 10 Years

Demand for European river cruising has exploded!

The incredible popularity of the 98-190 passenger river cruises, which ply the historic watery freeways past the Old World Capitals of the European continent, remains an ongoing cruise phenomenon. Popular choices include the Danube, the Rhine, the Rhone, and the Seine, all of which afford opportunities to see palaces, abbeys and castles perched upon hilltops. Glide past some of mankind’s most splendid architectural achievements after unpacking just once. It’s not surprising that many of the motorcoach tour companies from the 1970s and ’80s now own and operate their own fleet of ships.

Latest Trends: In 2017 one of the most beautiful, ultra-deluxe, new river-cruise ships will be redeployed to the Danube. If you’re considering this journey, call us so you book the right ship! Also in 2017, one popular line will be granted access to the heart of Paris for a splendid evening cruise past the illuminated monuments in the City of Light on a brand-new, custom-built ship. Shouldn’t you be sure your cruise has this advantage?

But how to choose? Viking, Emerald, Avalon, AmaWaterways, Scenic, Amadeus, Uniworld, and Tauck—the list does not seem to end, and new worthy competitors are arriving for 2017! Ask the professionals at Frontiers to compare your needs and preferences with the specific features offered by the large selection of what we consider to be excellent options.

Accommodations: We can match preferences and requirements to the right cabin on the right ship. For instance, one cruise line has designed a revolutionary way for cabins on the lower deck to have a marvelous feeling of space and light; they’ve added a duplex level with an elevated ceiling of glass so that these lower-priced cabins have lovely natural daylight and a feeling of height with the raised ceiling.

Cost: Let us guide you to the right ship from the start. We know which cruise lines offer truly all-inclusive experiences so that you’re not charged additionally for excursions, gratuities or cocktails.

Activities: Relationships are constantly evolving, and we have our finger on the pulse. One of our favorites among the many exclusive options offered on these river cruises is an offering from highly regarded cycling tour company Backroad, and family-tour king Adventures by Disneh, both of whom have teamed up with one of our favorite river-cruise companies to offer dedicated cruise itineraries for like-minded travelers to have the ideal experience.

New suite on Crystal’s Mozart

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Let the Frontiers team of experts and our 33-year track record of making recommendations and traveling Europe’s rivers and canals add the perfect touch to your own cruise. We stand ready to assist, and are available to help you plan your memorable holiday travel experience. n

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Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Saving the Best for Last:

Reinventing the Paris Airport Hotel Experience

By Jill Jergel

Domaine de Chantilly grounds with hotel adjacent

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e all know the feeling: the wonderful trip you’ve anticipated for months is drawing to a close.

Anticipation of your own bed makes the prospect of home appealing—yet you don’t want the fun, the learning, the delight of discovery (or the exquisite meals!) to end.

And—talk about a downer!—you made the questionable decision to spend the last night of this Grand Adventure at a monochromatic Paris airport hotel, which in spite of its proximity just doesn’t make an appealing final evening in France.

Often overlooked by even the most experienced traveler to France, the exquisite Domaine de Chantilly is truly one of the rarest gems in France’s glittering crown of châteaux. Comprised of buildings dating from the mid-1500s to the late 1800s, the vast estate is truly a visit we recommend instead of battling the masses at Versailles. The château itself has magnificent galleries, private apartments, a library Belle and the Beast could get lost in, and a massive collection of antique paintings second only to the Louvre. The grounds were designed by (and reputed to be the favorite of) that 16th-century planner of exquisite landscapes and revered green thumb, Le Nôtre, and today contain a maze, a children’s hamlet, and a recently restored life-size game of Snakes and Ladders, the historic predecessor to Chutes and Ladders.

However, it is the Equine Palace—en français, Grandes Écuries, or Great Stables—that quite nearly steals the show.

The stables were built between 1719 and 1735 by Prince Louis-Henri de BourbonCondé because he believed he would be

reincarnated as a horse. On the practical side, he also needed someplace to house his 240 horses and 150 hunting dogs, so he had this masterpiece of 18th-century architecture constructed (some said to one-up his cousin Louis XV as well). Ever since then, Chantilly has been closely connected with horses, and guests today can visit the new Museum of the Horse and view equestrian shows and performances that have now become world famous. The impressive “domaine” is now thankfully under the protection of the Aga Khan, who formed and funds a foundation for the preservation and development of the vast acreage.

Knowing horse lovers and visitors to the nearby racetrack and domaine would need a comfortable, top-quality hostelry, the Aga Khan used one of the buildings to create a très chic, très élégante, small 92-room hotel within easy walking distance of the château and historic stables. The marvelous Auberge du Jeu de Paume is understated, but don’t

underestimate the quality throughout: a two-star Michelin restaurant, the latest in bath accoutrements including a rainfall showerhead for power showers, and one of the friendliest service-driven staffs on this side of Paris.

At the special request of Frontiers, this little bijou of a luxury hotel—located only 25 minutes from Paris CDG Airport—created a “Last Night in France” package, which includes accommodation, tickets to the domaine, breakfast, and a private-car transfer to the airport the next day. But don’t stop at one final night! Add a night to provide ample time to absorb the astonishing history of the domaine, the pageantry of the horse museum, and one delicious dinner in the gourmet restaurant plus one in the lovely casual restaurant. End your trip with what could be its most memorable experience, as delicious as the chantilly cream invented here by Vatel: a stay at the Auberge du Jeu de Paume in Chantilly. n

Historic stables at Chantilly

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Enchanting Gardens of England

In Remembrance of Capability Brown

By Lynda McDonough

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016 marks the tercentenary of the birth of Lancelot “Capability” Brown (1716–1783), best remembered for landscape on an immense scale, constructing not only gardens and parkland but also planting woods and building farms linked by carriage drives, or “ridings,” many miles from the main house. He achieved spectacular feats of water and earth engineering imperceptible to the garden visitor.

His parklands were designed for hurtling carriages at breakneck speed, his garden buildings for illicit rendezvous, his lakes for moonlit sails.

one way or another by Brown. Such are the enduring qualities of his work that over 150 of the 260 or so landscapes with which he is associated remain worth seeing today.

Some of the most famous Brownian landscapes within easy reach of London that can still be seen as he designed them include Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey), Bowood House, Prior Park and Longleat in Wiltshire, Stowe and Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, Syon House, and Petworth House.

There are many events happening during 2016 to celebrate the 300th year of Brown’s birth.

Although his work is continually reassessed, every landscape gardener and landscape architect since has been influenced in

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Garden Events The Chelsea Flower Show Held Annually the Last Week of May A perennial favorite, this is the most famous of the Royal Horticultural Society’s flower shows, attracting visitors from all over the world. Combine Chelsea with visits to some of Britain’s best-known gardens such as Great Dixter, Sissinghurst and Hidcote. All are only a short hop from London, in Sussex and the Cotswolds.

The Hampton Court Flower Show Held Annually the First Week of July This is the world’s largest annual flower show, set in the stunning Versailles-inspired grounds of Hampton Court Palace alongside the River Thames. It’s the best time of year for roses (and Hampton Court has one of the most beautiful walled rose gardens you’ll ever see!), so combine a visit here with a tour to some of the best rose gardens in England such as the newly restored Jellicoe garden at Cliveden, the rose garden at Broughton Castle (where “Wolf Hall” was filmed), Mottisfont Abbey, Sudeley Castle and Kiftsgate Court in the Cotswolds, and David Austin Roses near Birmingham.

HRH Prince Charles’s Gardens at Highgrove If you are in the Cotswolds—which is heaving with stunning gardens, many of them private and only open by special appointment—why not see if you can fit in a visit to the Prince of Wales’s gardens at his country home of Highgrove near the pretty town of Tetbury? Days to visit these stunning organic gardens are limited, but we can check your travel dates and do our utmost to coordinate a visit to this exclusive site.

Off the Beaten Track in Cornwall I’ve recently returned from a visit to Cornwall, which is world famous for its woodland gardens containing lush subtropical plants fostered by the Gulf Stream.

Spring is the best time to see these gardens, which are known for their collections of camellias, rhododendrons and lush semitropicals. We can arrange for a local garden owner and garden expert to provide guidance in stunning gardens such as Glendurgan, Trebah, Caerhays Castle, and the Lost Gardens of Heligan. n

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Scotland’s Completely Glorious

Aldourie

by Jill Jergel

The ultimate grand-celebration castle estate on the shores of Loch Ness is a rare venue for family house parties, luxury group golf trips, a special birthday party, a board of directors meeting, or a corporate-incentive stay.

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rontiers—and Hollywood!—have both had long and passionate love affairs with Scotland. Just as the steam-puffing Hogwarts Express train captivated young and old in the Harry Potter series, and the handsome, tartanclad star of “Outlander” has won female hearts across the country, our savvy travelers have been drawn for decades by the sporting traditions of challenging golf, the lure of world-famous fly fishing rivers, and the plentiful picture-perfect castles in scenic glens. Many of us on staff have literally made dozens of trips—

both personal and professional—to Scotland.

So when we tell you that Aldourie is truly a one-of-a-kind, simply exceptional property that is available solely for private hire—exceptional not only for Scotland, but on a global scale—we hope you will sit up and listen.

The impressive 500-acre Aldourie Castle estate is perfectly placed on the banks of mythic Loch Ness with its very own pier for private cruises to nearby ruins. It is rare that a historic venue is as perfectly appointed while remaining as completely comfortable as Aldourie is. Immaculately maintained and impeccably preserved, the interiors and estate grounds are the stuff dreams are made of, in a class—and a world—of their own, yet just five miles from Inverness.

Hard to believe the original part of this Grade-A listed castle dates to 1626, afterward hosting aristocratic house parties and holidays during Victorian

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times, and belonging to the same family for 250 years. Although curious looking to our 21st-century eyes, the vintage plumbing is in perfect condition, and the antiques throughout are prime—yet make no mistake, this is a “relax and enjoy” house, definitely not a museum piece where the children must be told “don’t touch.” It’s as informal as you’d like and welcoming to young people—even those who want to jump on the beds!

Lavinia, our hostess, was pouring the coffee during my visit. “Really, we just love to welcome families here for special getaways—there’s so much to do!” As the fire cast an inviting glow on the crimson walls, she casually rattled off an engaging list of marvelous activities and experiences she and the staff enjoy arranging for houseguests: • A private boat cruise on Loch Ness to the ruins at Urquhart Castle for a custom picnic • A true Scottish Ceilidh (pronounced Kay-lee), which means fiddles, singing and dancing • Private single-malt tastings • Bonfires on the shorefront with local storytellers

• Hog roasts, falconry displays, claypigeon shooting, off-road driving, and horseback riding

concluding the evening at Aldourie’s atmospheric graveyard, lit with torches for a memorable denouement.

According to Lavinia, many families simply appreciate the exceptional opportunity to play “Downton Abbey” at one of the UK’s most amazing properties, yet part of what makes the experience so perfect is the seasoned staff who simply love to create the magic for their guests. A frequent request (and one that “screams” to me) is a Murder Mystery Evening complete with actors and an array of Agatha Christie–like whodunit plots.

Characters are introduced at cocktails, and as the evening unfolds, the plot thickens while guests try to figure out the identity of the murderer. Guests can select their character before the event and dress up accordingly—even

This is one of the most impressive private-hire castles in the UK: full of light, warmth, unique activities, and a rare opportunity for guests to share a once-in-a-lifetime experience bursting with traditional opulence, classic style, and warm Scottish hospitality. We recommend that you enjoy the attention to detail and unparalleled hospitality at glorious Aldourie for that special event on your calendar.

The castle sleeps 28 people in 13 ensuite bedrooms, and the estate can accept up to 50 guests including the four cottages on the grounds. A threenight minimum is preferred, priced at £20,000 (about USD $28,860) for the three nights plus catering. n

“You Take the High Road and I’ll…”

Come with You!

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cotland’s stunning new North Coast 500 is a breathtaking 500-mile-circle trip from Inverness traveling up and around the Highlands that shouts “road trip!” Already included in a short list of Classic Drives such as Big Sur, the Amalfi Drive, and Ireland’s Ring of Kerry, the NC500 boasts steep cliffs climbing out of the sea with plenty of snow-clad peaks, mystical lochs, and ruined castles (not to mention a few conveniently located whisky distilleries) to provide fortunate travelers with an unparalleled view of stunning Scottish scenery.

The journey provides an excellent opportunity to visit a “Frontiers Favorite” country house hotel, the Torridon—which is so wonderful you shouldn’t plan less than a two-night stay. Amazing cuisine (there’s something so decadent about fresh Scottish salmon for breakfast) and exceptional hiking make this an essential stop. Traveling north from here, past Caithness and John o’ Groats, you will then head south past Dunrobin Castle and Dornoch, returning to Inverness. Such an exquisite road might require an exquisite car—let Frontiers source a vintage sports car to make this a journey to remember. A 1971 Jaguar E coupe, a Morgan 4/4, and an Austin Healey are just a few of the possibilities available.

The UK media have named the new road Scotland’s own Route 66; however, I think NC500 is just a remarkable opportunity to absorb the culture, heritage and amazing scenery of Scotland. And if you’re a fan, you can include some of the filming locations for the Starz series “Outlander” (or as it’s known in Scotland, “50 Shades of Tartan”) such as the Clava Cairns, located just outside of Inverness, which inspired the show’s time-traveling stones at Craigh na Dun. With no time limit on completing the circuit, we can design the adventure based on your travel time frame with preferred months between April and October. n Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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Frontiers Hosted The Best of New Zealand: Hawke’s Bay, Christchurch and Queenstown Hosted by: Mike & Kristene Fitzgerald March 16–26, 2017 Experience New Zealand’s entertaining mixture of refined lifestyle and cultural excitement with activities including a private helicopter excursion to Milford Sound, garden tours, hiking, jet boating, vineyard visits, and more! The adventure begins with three days on the North Island in Hawke’s Bay, followed by a full week on the South Island. Highlights include visiting some of the most scenic coastal and inland areas with an emphasis on being outside to enjoy New Zealand’s unique flora, fauna and incredible vistas. We start at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay, a 5,000-acre sheepand-cattle station. Next, we travel to Otahuna Lodge, 20 minutes outside of Christchurch, where we will have exclusive use of the property. Our trip ends at Matakauri Lodge in Queenstown in deluxe suites with stunning views of Lake Wakatipu.

East Africa Photographic Safari Hosted by: Barry & Cathy Beck July 28–August 11, 2017 Professional photographers, writers and Frontiers Ambassadors Barry and Cathy Beck will host their ninth photographic safari to Africa in 2017. This customdesigned itinerary will include the classic safari locations of the Maasai Mara in Kenya and the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti in Tanzania, with the highlight being one of the most eagerly awaited and avidly observed wildlife spectacles on earth—the annual Great Migration. Limited to just twelve guests.

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Trips The Silk Road: China and Uzbekistan Hosted by: Mollie Fitzgerald September 2018 “Beyond the sands of the Ordos lie the kingdoms of the west, untold treasures and mysteries to test.”

(Ancient Chinese saying about the ancient Silk Road) “The ringing of the camel’s bell, the sounding of merchant’s yell, herald Silk Road treasures are here to sell.”

(A popular saying from Xi’an) There are many iconic journeys in the world, but there is only one true adventure that spans the continuum of time—the journey along the Silk Road. This is a travel experience that transcends history.

The very name “Silk Road” conjures up a kaleidoscope of images: caravans, desert dunes, lost cities, palaces, and the mystery of Cathay. Traders, travelers, pilgrims and dreamers have traveled this transcontinental golden road that once linked the Roman Empire with the imperial majesty of Han Dynasty China. The two greatest empires of world history—Rome and China—were tethered by this single silken thread, a thread spun into a highway that saw the greatest flow of commerce and culture between two disparate worlds long before our age of international trade agreements.

Set forth on a specially designed journey that will take you

across the Chinese Silk Road into Uzbekistan, the lost world of Samarkand and Sogdiana, the ancient land that served as the great marketplace between East and West. Our journey begins in Shanghai, where you enjoy two days of activities before flying to Xi’an, the gateway to the ancient wonders of Imperial China, home to some of the greatest archeological wonders of the world. During your visit to Xi’an enjoy unprecedented access to these sites and meet with the archeologists and experts that are rewriting the wonders of Ancient China.

On leaving Xi’an, travel through the heart of Silk Road China to the magnificent Mogao Buddhist Caves at Dunhuang. Next, visit the lost Silk Road cities in Turfan, ending up in Kashgar, the most remote city in China and site of one of the greatest of all market experiences, the Sunday Bazaar that seems to be lifted from the pages of “One Thousand and One Nights.” From Kashgar travel to Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, the land of Tamerlane and the Golden Horde. Enjoy the markets and museums of Central Asia’s most picturesque capital before setting off to explore Samarkand, the greatest of all ancient Silk Road cities. The story of Samarkand, the city on the Golden Road, begins at the dawn of recorded history and through its many centuries has seen the armies of Ancient Greece, Parthia, Persia, China and Russia to name but a few. Here the dazzling enameled domes of the grandest of all cities in the ancient world recall the riches of Timur’s empire. Our journey ends in Beijing, where we enjoy two days in China’s historic capital.

Nepal and Sri Lanka Hosted by: Mollie Fitzgerald March 2018 Home to 8 of the 10 tallest peaks in the world, the tiny mountain kingdom of Nepal, ringed by the Himalayas, is a land of contrasts harboring a wealth of Buddhist and Hindu art and architecture. The colorful capital city Kathmandu—at once ancient and modern, natural and urban—reflects 2000 years of truly peaceful coexistence, producing a unique blend of Hinduism and Buddhism that is distinctly Nepalese in character. Nepal is nearly 75% mountainous while its Terai region is fertile, low-lying, hot and humid. Once covered with dense forest that supported only wildlife, recent years have seen deforestation, making this area the hub of a growing population.

Known as Taprobane to the Ancient Romans, Serendib to the Arab traders, Ceilao to the Portuguese, Ceylan to the Dutch followed by Ceylon to the British, and finally Sri Lanka to the Sinhalese, this is the land of serendipity—of happy surprises! No wonder Marco Polo declared the atoll “the finest island of its size in the world.”

The teardrop-shaped southernmost point of mainland Asia became an indispensable port of call to the earliest travelers awaiting favorable trade winds for onward journeys. This Great Emporium became a principal center of exchange and commerce between the Mediterranean trade of the Roman Empire and the wealth of imperial China. The Portuguese came with sword and cross, the Dutch with ledger and law book, and the British with roads and railways. When Buddhism declined in the country of its birth, India, it took root in Ceylon; and here, so its adherents claim, it is still to be found in its purest form. n Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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The Trifecta of Spain:

Madrid, Barcelona and Seville

By Beth Kurcina

If you have the opportunity to delve into visiting just one country, you have to consider Spain for its diversity. The cities of Madrid, Barcelona and Seville offer an incredible assortment of Castilian, Catalonian and Andalusian flavors!

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pain is one of the most visually spectacular countries in Europe. I had the opportunity to immerse myself in the fascinating cultures for two weeks in February.

Madrid Given that Madrid is the capital of and the largest city in Spain, it possesses a modern infrastructure but has preserved the look and feel of many of its historic neighborhoods and streets.

I stayed at the beautiful and spacious Villa Magna Hotel, located on the 6-kilometer Paseo de la Castellana, which is lined with elegant palaces. The hotel underwent an extensive renovation in 2007 with a two-year closure.

The result is a luxury hotel with modern appointments and an exquisite staff.

If you love art, Madrid is the place to visit. Best known is the Golden Triangle of Art located along the Paseo del Prado and comprising three museums; the most famous is the Prado Museum, with its rich collection of Goyas and Velázquezes, followed by the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, established Beth Kurcina in Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia

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from a mixture of private collections, and the Reina Sofía Museum, where Pablo Picasso’s “Guernica” hangs.

My trip was organized by our trusted on-site supplier, Made for Spain and Portugal, and I experienced a private photo walking tour that offers great appeal for amateur photographers. Not only do you see unique sights beyond the more-visited ones in Madrid, but along the way you are also given recommendations and advice on shooting from unique perspectives.

Many travelers’ itineraries include a day trip to Segovia or Toledo from Madrid; but few consider Alcalá de Henares, the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, author of “Don Quixote.” The city center remains essentially medieval with winding cobbled streets and historic buildings. Uniquely, the city includes Moorish, Jewish and Christian quarters, and these three distinct neighborhoods have given Alcalá the reputation of the “city of three cultures.”

The other unique aspect of this charming town is its population of white storks. I observed their large nests atop almost every church and historic building. I was also fortunate enough to be in Alcalá on the opening day of Carnival and was able to see all the children in their costumes parading down the main pedestrian street.

bowls of tropical fruit to the most gorgeous purple eggplants to twenty varieties of mushroom. The freshness and plumpness of everything is unsurpassed. In the center of the teeming market of tourists, locals and chefs sniffing, pinching and smelling, there must be forty stands of fresh whole fish and seafood such as squid, octopus, lobster, langoustine and salted cod.

I booked a Catalonian tapas-making class at the Canela Fina School. The experience takes about four hours and teaches you how to prepare unique tapas such as bread with tomato and Catalan cured sausages, “Coca de Escalibada” (baked flatbread with roasted vegetables) with black olive tapenade and anchovies, Spanish “tortilla de patatas” (potato omelette), Spanish ham and cheese croquettes, and sangria. Upon finishing the preparation of the tapas, I was able to enjoy the fruits of my work with a delicious lunch.

The origins of tapas are the subject of great debate, depending on which area of Spain you are from. It is said that the first tapas was simply a hunk of bread placed over a beer mug to keep the flies out. Hence the word “tapas,” which means “lid” in Spanish, was born.

Continued •••

I would definitely recommend Alcalá as a day trip from Madrid—or as an attractive alternative to staying at a Madrid airport hotel prior to an early morning flight back home, as it is only twenty minutes away from the airport. There are several hotels available in Alcalá, including the Parador de Alcalá de Henares, that would make a lovely end to your Spain trip.

Barcelona Barcelona, the Catalan capital, is a food lover’s dream destination.

There’s no better way to understand what this means than visiting Barcelona’s vibrant Boqueria Market, the best-known of the city’s six public marketplaces.

As soon as you arrive at the market, open every day except Sunday, you know you are on serious foodie turf. I have never seen such a variety of options from the food pyramid, from ornate

Carnival Festival in Alcalá de Henares

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see Antoni Gaudí’s crypt, an impressive church, which Gaudí built but never fully finished.

Less well-known but just as worthwhile is the Torre Bellesguard, which is currently owned by the Guilera family and is a family house designed by Gaudí and built between 1900 and 1909. We had a lovely visit and tour in this medieval-inspired castle in which family members joined us for champagne and dessert.

Park Guell in Barcelona

Along with food, the Catalonians love wine. If you are interested in vineyards, the Penedès region is an hour south of Barcelona, and you could easily spend two days visiting the vineyards for wine tastings.

There are many internationally famous brands and important wineries located in the Penedès such as Miguel Torres and Jean Leon. Excellent boutique cava companies include Raventós Blanc and Parés Baltà, which I toured. The roots of Parés Baltà go back to 1790, when the first vines were planted on the estate that now surrounds the winery. Today, Mr. Joan Cusine works alongside his multigenerational family, enthusiastically maintaining the quality of the wines.

Seville

Velázquez Puerta Museo del Prado

Though you could spend all your time on food in Barcelona, there is much more you won’t want to miss. You cannot speak of modernist Barcelona without mentioning Antoni Gaudí, the Spanish architect best known for Catalan modernism. I spent two half-days exploring Gaudí’s architecture.

The most-known structure and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sagrada Familia, has been a work in progress since 1882.

With its multicolored towers piercing the blue sky, it is no doubt the most iconic structure in Barcelona.

While the exterior is a fascinating, intricate masterpiece, I was amazed at the impressive stained-glass windows that line the interior. The Sagrada Familia is

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projected to be completed in 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudí’s death.

I then proceeded to Colonia Güell, a 45-minute drive outside of Barcelona, which lends itself to an educational halfday trip, or you can make this a full-day trip and add a visit to Montserrat for the breathtaking panoramic views from the mountain.

Colonia Güell was once a small worker’s village built in 1882. In the town center is the museum, located in the colony’s old cooperative, which offers an introspective of the estate operations and how the tradesmen and factory women lived and worked under Gaudí. In addition, you can

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Andalusia, the southern region of Spain, is one of my favorite destinations in Europe. Although there are many other enchanting and diverse destinations close by, such as Marbella, Málaga, Granada and Cádiz, I focused on Seville and Córdoba on this trip.

In one day in Seville, I experienced tapas bar crawling, a visit to the Royal Palace, and the most famous flamenco show at the El Arenal, followed by a Catholic procession to the Gothic cathedral and exploring the Royal Tobacco Factory where the famous opera “Carmen” was inspired. Seville is a tourist’s dream: the city center is enchanting because it has been preserved, and there are no highrise buildings.

Seville offers many hotel choices. The King Alfonso XIII Hotel has been the premier

Mezquita, the Great Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

hotel in Seville for 85 years and has consistently maintained its aura of history and glamour. The distinctive Mudéjar-style architecture is breathtaking, with sweeping arches, decorative brickwork, and ceramic finials. I stayed in a room that offered a grand terrace overlooking the city center.

For a day trip outside Seville, Córdoba, which has the second largest Old Town in Europe, is an excellent choice. While touring this World Heritage Site, you get an insightful sense of the melting pot of the religious history of Spain relating to the Muslim, Christian and Jewish cultures.

The most important building and symbol of the city is the Great Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba called the Mezquita. Córdoba has architectural wonders, and I loved the cobblestone lanes lined with flowering balconies. Another sight worth visiting is the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristanos, the medieval palace and fortress with beautiful gardens and fountains.

Be sure to include Andalusia on your destination list so as not to miss an incredible experience that will enrich both your mind and palate.

Think about visiting Spain on your next trip. The climate is ideal yearround, and whether it is music in Andalusia, food in Barcelona, or art in Madrid, you will come back home with incredible memories. n Balcony suite at Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville

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St. Mark’s Square in a November flood

Venice Revisited In the words of 13th-century traveler Marco Polo:

“There is still one of which you never speak.”

Marco Polo bowed his head.

“Venice,” the khan said.

Marco smiled. “What else do you believe I have been talking to you about?”

The emperor did not turn a hair. “And yet I have never heard you mention that name.”

And Polo said: “Every time I describe a city I am saying something about Venice…perhaps I am afraid of losing Venice all at once, if I speak of it.”

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nd yet, speak of it we must! Built on water, steeped in history, and synonymous with romance, Venice is a fabled destination with a glorious past and a vibrant present that continues to enchant today’s traveler just as it did 800 years ago. It sits precariously atop 118 small islands, connected by winding canals and arched footbridges. Noted for its maritime prowess, the Most Serene Republic of Venice was once a major seat of power with a population in the mid-16th century of nearly 200,000. Today, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to just 50,000 residents, it is known for the unique beauty of its setting, its architecture, and its treasure trove of art.

Craftsmen follow centuries-old traditions of blowing glass on the island of Murano. Luxury textiles like Fortuny silk originated here. Old Venetian Masters like Titian and Tintoretto flourished in the Renaissance…and the artistic legacy continues with the internationally celebrated contemporary art exhibition “Biennale.”

―Italo Calvino, “Invisible Cities”

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By Mollie Fitzgerald Abby and Mollie on the Grand Canal

I discovered Venice somewhat later in my travel career than you might suspect and Murano glass blower instantly made a promise to myself to return as often as possible (to which I have been true!). The labyrinth of cobbled lanes is an endless source of fascination, and my explorations have revealed quaint residential squares, little neighborhood wine bars, artisans’ ateliers, and more.

There is nothing like setting out for a walk in Venice! I like it best in the off-season—the early weeks of spring or the grayest days of winter, like my most-recent late-November visit, when the fog and light are moody and interesting.

Never mind the drizzle, the damp, and the fact that the streets can flood at a moment’s notice. Once while I was visiting, the entirety of St. Mark’s Square flooded while we Continued •••

The Rialto Bridge

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Drawing room of Aman Canal Grande

were at dinner! When this happens, the city is very efficient at erecting a scaffolding of platforms along which people can walk.

Guest room at the Aman Canal Grande

One of the most iconic waterways in the world is Venice’s Grand Canal, which meanders through the heart of the city in a sinuous S shape. It is plied by gondolas, public ferries called “vaporetti,” and cigarette-style speedboats alike—and lined with more than 170 gracious palazzos between 200 and 700 years old. These physical reminders of the city’s grand heritage were built to demonstrate the wealth and artistry of the republic in its heyday. In one of these regal palaces is situated the stunning 24-room Aman Venice, fusing the romance and history of this legendary city with the hospitality and discreet service for which Aman is renowned. Neo-Renaissance meets refined modern aesthetics at Aman Canal Grande. As a confirmed “Aman junkie,” and fueled by the images of George and Amal’s much-touted nuptials, I was so energized to be back in Venice and simply dying to see this property!

And Aman Venice does not disappoint. The dazzling public spaces, which include original ceiling frescoes, fabulous sconces, and stunning Murano chandeliers, look like something on a movie set. My room was a soothing oasis of space—very contemporary and with all modern IT controls. I could just imagine how inviting the private garden would be in the summertime.

Facade of Aman Canal Grande

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As Jessica Zafra writes in “Twisted Travels,” “I cannot write about Venice; I can only write about me, and the sleeping parts of myself that Venice has shocked into wakefulness.” It is simply so true! Each of the five senses is stimulated in Venice, and what a feast it is…There is such a sense of intrigue as to what is around that next corner. I cannot get enough! n

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Frontiers recommends in Venice: • Have lunch at Grand Hotel Monaco on the outdoor terrace. The geranium-studded flower boxes overlooking the Grand Canal are seductive enough, but the service is impeccable. Tuck into some shaved baby artichokes, fresh calamari, and a bottle of wine…Life is oh, so good!

• Have dinner at Da Ivo. This tiny little gem—probably just 10 tables, with classic redand-white-checkered tablecloths and copper pots hanging from the ceiling—is on a canal and so easy to access, offering among other delights delicious, fresh pasta with shaved truffles.

• Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Her amazing 20th-century art collection is displayed in her even more amazing palazzo, Venier dei Leoni—on the Grand Canal, of course. Open daily 10 a.m.–6 p.m.

• Take a guide—at least for your first afternoon. An introductory walking tour can give you so much perspective on the city and help you get your bearings.

• Be prepared for rain, and don’t bring your fancy shoes! It can flood at any moment and has on 50% of my visits here. A good hotel (like Aman) will have wellies for you to borrow, but you don’t want to get stranded in your Louboutins or Jimmy Choos!

• Visit the private-entrée villas and delve into the genius of 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio.

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Lobby at the Four Seasons in Florence

A Roman Holiday

By Suzie Duff

Goose bumps. When “on location” we at Frontiers encounter goose bumps almost as a matter of course. “Encounter” is the wrong word—rather, we seek out those experiences abroad most likely to evoke a visceral reaction.

Like most of us I feel goose bumps when immersed in an experience that delightfully surpasses the ordinary, and these moments leave an indelible mark in my memory.

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jump at every opportunity to travel, so when I received an invitation from one of our top on-site suppliers, Italian Dream Incorporated, to participate in a familiarization trip to Italy in October, I was thrilled. Italy is one of my favorite destinations, and I have been fortunate to travel there several times. The proposed IDI itinerary included Florence, Tuscany and Rome—all places I have previously visited and loved. While there are many destinations on my bucket list that I have yet to visit, an opportunity to see Italy with IDI transcends the ordinary Italy travel experience to such an extent that it’s almost like going for the first time.

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I arrived in Florence ready to hit the ground running. At the airport I was greeted by a driver from IDI travel who helped me with my bags and whisked me to my home for the night: the Four Seasons Firenze, a new property in the Four Seasons portfolio. Mollie Fitzgerald had seen the property during the renovation on a “hard hat” tour, so I had an inkling of what to expect.

This idyllic Four Seasons is tucked into an unassuming corner of Florence, noticeably developed in deference to this historic city’s architecture rather than imposed upon it. The entry is neither expansive nor flashy—true understated elegance.

Four Seasons has created yet another property that does not disappoint. The main hotel was built within the 15thcentury Palazzo della Gherardesca, which was once a palace, and the annex building was originally the 16th-century Conventinto (former convent) situated in an 11-acre private park. In addition to the usual sybaritic appointments, the property boasts an Olympic-size outdoor swimming pool and an on-site “proper” spa offering a myriad of treatments, a fitness center, and several lovely outdoor dining options.

I settled into my room, unpacked, opened the windows wide, and was greeted by a symphony of singing birds. The lovely in-room breakfast was made all the more enjoyable by the avian serenade.

The next day I set off for my next destination, the Hotel Lungarno, to join my fellow travelers. The hotel is part of the Ferragamo family properties, and the location and hotels should not be missed.

After a day walking around Florence, it is a welcome retreat, as it is located across the Ponte Vecchio in a more residential section of the city.

I was full of excitement and anticipation as we drove to our next destination, a museum set in the attractive yet unassuming (and small) old home of a famous Italian artist. An IDI guide greeted us, pointed out some of the highlights of the works on exhibit, and expanded on the significance of the home itself—who had lived there with the artist, and the secret storage vault that lay behind what looked like a typical wall. Then our group received a very subtle (yet official) wave, and with that it was understood that we were to follow her. We ascended the staircase to the second floor and entered a room that looked a bit like a classroom, containing a large table surrounded by chairs with a podium at the front. I assumed that we would receive a lecture.

I was absolutely unprepared for what came next.

The docent left the room and returned wearing white gloves and carefully holding a wrapped paper bundle. As she Continued •••

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unwrapped a package that contained sketches done in red chalk, it became very clear that this would be anything but a mundane lecture. (Our guide had a master’s in interpreting these ancient texts, and that this was her chosen life’s work was obvious as she affectionately handled each piece.) A lecture was indeed not forthcoming, but rather we were shown a handful of precious sketches of a man who changed the world. Before he passed away (at age 88) Michelangelo destroyed over 10,000 of his sketches. Apparently he, like many other perfectionist geniuses, did not want

people to see his early drafts or initial attempts at design. The first piece placed on the table was his depiction of Mary with Jesus, one of only a few in this genre.

It is posited that rendering the Madonna with child was a painful undertaking for him, as he lost his own mother at a very young age. For the same reason, in his renditions, Mary never makes eye contact with the baby Jesus. The goose bumps started immediately. I wasn’t seeing a piece of his work displayed behind an inch-thick plate of glass. I was looking at his actual work lying on a table as close to my eyes and no more protected than if it

were a common newspaper. To be in such intimate proximity to the work of such a revered genius elevated the experience from mere fascination to the realm of sacred.

I was especially touched when three of his personal journals, penned during his time in Rome while painting the Sistine Chapel, were presented. Our IDI guide translated several sections. I was expecting to hear pearls of great wisdom, the inner thoughts of a mastermind or perhaps stories about one of the many evenings he spent with his very good friend Galileo. The entries, however, were actually quite ordinary and included lists of supplies and logs of expenses. Who would have guessed that Michelangelo would engage in a task as pedestrian as preparing an expense report? Especially interesting were his very human reactions of doing a job from day to day—things like “my back hurts from painting this ceiling” and “all I do is get paint in my eyes all day long,” as well as a note that he at times felt like a painting himself by the end of the day (presumably because he was so spattered)!

None of this would have been possible if not for IDI: The second-floor archive is not open to the public, hence the reason my attempts to research this prior to departure were fruitless. IDI is a patron of the museum, as IDI owner Filippo Curinga underwrites the museum not only as an expression of his love of country and his personal enthusiasm for the master but also so that his clients will have access to this singular experience. Further, he wants to keep the pieces available for coming generations.

I thought it would be hard to top this experience in Florence, but IDI exceeded my expectations again in Rome. “Roman Holiday” is one of my favorite movies.

Starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, it is one of the great romantic films of the ’50s and makes you dream about living in a different time. Since I had only seen Rome depicted in films and photographs, I was so excited that I had the opportunity to reenact a scene from

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the movie—IDI arranged for us to tour the city on vintage Vespa motor scooters!

Seeing nothing in my suitcase that seemed appropriate for scooter riding, I took advantage of just one of the Westin Excelsior’s extensive amenities. If you are a runner or would like to use the gym but didn’t think to bring workout clothes (the one thing I didn’t pack!), simply call the front desk, and in a few minutes you will be handed a complete New Balance workout outfit including tennis shoes in the right size. So, despite not donning a replica of Audrey Hepburn’s outfit, I was set for the adventure ahead. As we exited our hotel, we were greeted by a fleet of Vespas in various sizes, shapes and colors. They were fabulous! We all chose which Vespa we wanted to ride on, and the drivers appeared with head covers and helmets. At first I thought we’d be driving the scooters ourselves, so I was

a little disappointed to learn there’d be a driver, but to the envy of all of the other ladies, my driver was a very handsome Italian man. So I had my Gregory Peck as well!

As soon as we hit the streets, the goose bumps started. I felt immediate relief that I was not the driver! It was 4 p.m. on a Friday afternoon, so the streets were packed bumper to bumper. Touring Rome on a scooter is a brilliant idea.

Sitting on the Vespa revealed striking views of the city unobscured by a car’s roof. By car we would have been able to cover about one-third of what we saw on the nimble little motorcycle. Not only was “Gregory” completely charming, he was a very knowledgeable guide and explained the historical significance of what we were seeing rather than merely identifying buildings and rattling off facts.

The hour passed very quickly, and then

A page from Michelangelo’s personal journals

“Gregory” and I had to part ways. All of my senses were heightened after the tour—I truly experienced my very own Roman Holiday! n

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Making Memories

by Kathy Schulz

On Made-to-Order Multigenerational Trips to Africa

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The Ronald Strain family at the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa

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photographic safari on the fascinating continent of Africa appeals to all ages. With decades of in-depth experience in the luxury-travel business in Africa, Frontiers is wellpoised to create a special itinerary that keeps everyone on the journey excited and engaged. Our destination knowledge is unparalleled, and our suggestions are based purely on your objectives and where the peak game viewing may be at your desired time to travel.

Many safaris are specially designed for a family or a group of friends looking to celebrate a landmark birthday, an anniversary, or any special occasion.

Our family programs are custom designed so that distinct attention is given to children, with more child-friendly activities such as dancing with the Maasai warriors; viewing the Great Migration from a hot-air balloon over the Serengeti; taking an elephant-back safari near one of the seven wonders of the natural world, Victoria Falls; or floating down the Okavango Delta in a mokoro (dugout canoe), just to name a few. We’ve found that including more ecotourism or philanthropic activities, such as a visit to a wildlife orphanage or local school or attending conservation lectures, has added appealing enrichment. The temperate climate, delightful people, exotic wildlife, and an ever-changing classroom provide all the ingredients for a trip of a lifetime—one to be enjoyed with those who are closest to your heart.

Sharing the gift of travel with family and close friends is one of life’s most precious investments.

To ensure you’re spending this time wisely, take advantage of our understanding, expertise, creative ideas, and connections in Africa to customize your travels. n

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Encountering Classic Kenya and the Enchanting “Singing Wells” of Sarara

by Kathy Schulz

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recently experienced Kenya’s warm, friendly hospitality and the exceptional wildlife in the game-rich areas of Laikipia, Mount Kenya, the Masai Mara and Samburu.

Traveling as part of an invitation-only Abercrombie & Kent Familiarization Trip, I had the pleasure of visiting some classic safari locations including the historic Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi, the intimate lodges and bush homes in the renowned Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, the prestigious Mount Kenya Safari Club, and several great properties in the Masai Mara including the remarkable new Angama Mara, which had just opened its doors literally on the edge of the Great Rift Valley three days prior to my visit. The design and namesake of this fabulous owner-run lodge was inspired by the Swahili word for “suspended in midair.”

Our last stop in the Mara was also my favorite: Sanctuary Olonana. Situated on the banks of the famed Mara River, Olonana’s private location in a riverine forest provides a frontrow seat during the annual action-packed Great Wildebeest Migration. The luxury camp features 14 spacious and tastefully appointed “tents” with verandahs close to the river where guests can relax and watch the resident hippos wallowing. You can also enjoy an open-air spa treatment, take a tasting tour of the organic garden, learn about the camp’s eco-initiatives, plant a tree with your name on it, or accompany one of Olonana’s Maasai guides to the nearby village.

Maurice, the manager of this extremely friendly and well-run camp, has been at Olonana for 17 years. He worked his way all the way up from his original entry-level position, and his love for and dedication to this camp have an almost tangible tricklethrough effect. Olonana is the perfect choice for both couples and families, with scores of fun and creative children’s activities.

Our dear friends at Africa House Safaris hosted me for the last few days of my memorable safari. I was delighted to take a scenic flight in a private Cessna 206 to the northern frontier of Kenya and spend two nights at Sarara Camp, set in the pristine wilderness of the Mathews Range in the Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy. This remote and dramatic landscape is also home to the Samburu tribe, whose age-old traditions, including the famed “Singing Wells,” are as much a part of the fabric of this land as the wildlife.

Our fascinating and well-versed Samburu guide, Lemaiyan— otherwise known to guests as Robert—escorted us on a

walking safari from our elegant six-room tented camp through the African bush to the Singing Wells. We felt extremely privileged and deeply moved as we observed the Samburu warriors descend into the wells, standing naked one on top of the other, forming a human chain that extended 32 feet deep.

They handed buckets between each other on the precarious ladder, gathering water for their livestock as they sang their haunting Samburu melodies. Each herdsman’s unique chant rose deep from his throat and served to call his cattle to drink as we witnessed this extraordinary ritual.

Some of the wells are also used by the thousands of elephants in the area and the stunning Sarara leopards. Although the Samburu bring their cattle to these watering holes on a daily basis during the dry season, no photography is permitted of this intimate experience. The scene is truly surreal and something you can experience nowhere else in Kenya, let alone the world.

Safaris in Kenya are overflowing with incredible flora and fauna as well as romantic scenery and breathtaking views!

Anyone who’s been on safari before knows that no two days are ever the same. Activities enjoyed during my 12-day journey included day and night game drives in open-sided Land Rovers, guided bush walks, horseback riding, hot-air ballooning, breakfast in the bush, dinner under the endless stars, cultural experiences at local Maasai and Samburu villages, and a very special private visit at Daphne Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage to meet our Frontiers’ adopted baby ellie named Mbegu.

If you would like to adopt your very own baby elephant or engage in another meaningful philanthropic opportunity firsthand, contact Frontiers Africa Department to let them share how Africa fills your soul like no other destination on earth! n

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Benguerra Island private pool

North Island, Seychelles

Safari and Beach: The Ultimate Holiday in Africa

Mnemba Island Lodge, just off the northeast coast of Zanzibar

by Kathy Schulz

Mafia Island Lodge, Tanzania

An idyllic beach extension off the coast of Africa is a great way to recover from jet lag or relax after an enthralling safari. The legendary islands of the Indian Ocean have attracted romantic travelers for centuries. They are not only stunningly beautiful but also rich in colonial history and charm left over from the spice-trade era. We’ve compiled a few of our favorites below.

Mafia Island lies less than 100 miles south of Zanzibar but still remains virtually unknown. Aquatic life is abundant, and the coral gardens are pristine due to the protection of the Mafia Island Marine Park, which facilitates extraordinary deep-sea fishing and scuba diving. Their 34 eco-friendly rooms are set among the coconut palms with their own veranda overlooking Chole Bay.

Azura Benguerra Island, located off the coast of Mozambique This island offers just 18 villas nestled along the white-sand beaches and warm turquoise waters of Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago with all the creature comforts you could wish for. From sparkling private pools to Mozambican butler/ hosts to look after your every need, from seafood fresh from the ocean to an African spa to relax in, Azura offers a fantastic range of activities and experiences, all at a community-based project where the local islanders benefit as much as you. Truly, paradise found.

North Island, Seychelles Found in the “inner” islands of the Seychelles, which are known as the most beautiful on earth, North Island is a place of exclusive luxury within an exquisite wilderness sanctuary. For those seeking a private and unspoiled tropical retreat, their 11 opulent, handcrafted villas lap the pristine, powder-white sands of the turquoise Indian Ocean.

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Be among just 20 guests at this romantic, private hideaway, where 10 beachside bandas overlook Mnemba Island (a scuba diver’s delight). From snorkeling, swimming and kayaking to massages on the beach to doing nothing at all, Mnemba has something for everyone.

Anjajavy L’Hotel, Madagascar While the adorable lemurs and thousands of other animal species found nowhere else on earth are its main attraction, Madagascar boasts 1,800 miles of beautiful beaches on what is the world’s fourth-largest island. Anjajavy L’Hotel is the only Relais & Chateaux property on Madagascar, and each of the 24 rosewood villas faces the sea and borders the main beach of the sprawling private estate.

Located on 1,900 acres, the Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve is home to more than 1,800 vegetal species, almost entirely local, and many medicinal plants, as well as the famous Verreaux lemur and Coquerel’s sifaka.

Each of these gems offers excellent opportunities for those seeking relaxation or more adventure. Experience worldclass diving, view extraordinary sunsets, indulge in delectable seafood, or simply wander for miles along the virtually untouched white-sand beaches. n

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On Safari for the

by Cory Van Horn

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here are moments in travel that will capture your heart and stick with you for the rest of your life. For me, it was during my first trip to Africa, where I explored the four corners of Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. In the days leading up to my trip, I thought I was prepared. I received a thorough debriefing and a detailed packet of pretrip documents from our team of Africa specialists. I packed light and brought a great camera with an excellent zoom. But nothing prepared me for the pure, raw emotion I felt during my 12 days on safari.

A way to get up close and personal with the animals

Throughout the 20th century, photographic safaris have been popularized in film and literature through grand tales of adventure, romance, and a curiosity for the unknown. Accentuated by the thrill of pursuit, game drives are the most requested animalviewing experience by our clients. Guests ride in 4 X 4 safari vehicles and journey through the bush with a guide navigating and scanning the terrain for the perfect photographic moment.

Every game drive is mesmerizing in entirely different ways. I never knew what was around the corner or hiding in the underbrush.

On one drive I saw an elephant with her newly born calf, and then a pack of lions lounging among the brush, followed by two male giraffes necking in an act of dominance. On another drive we rounded a corner to discover a herd of zebras grazing on tender grasses by a watering hole and then a leopard napping after what was surely a hearty meal.

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First Time

Ngoma Safari Lodge

Game drives are not the only opportunities for exceptional animal viewing. A bush walk serves as an introduction to game viewing by focusing on the micro versus the macro perspective. James, our guide at the Royal Zambezi Lodge, educated us on the “Little Five” of Africa—elephant shrew, buffalo weaver, leopard tortoise, ant lion, and rhino beetle—as we walked along a path that leads hippos to the river known as the “hippo highway.”

The most relaxing experience I have ever encountered is a canoe safari. Herds of elephants and impala, baboons, buffalo, kudu, and countless birds came to the water’s edge for a drink. More than a few crocodiles sunning themselves slipped into the channel as we drifted past. Even during a guided tour of Victoria Falls, the paths were full of unexpected animal discoveries including a few baboons foraging for grubs as we walked past. At both Ngoma Safari Lodge in Botswana and Lianshulu Lodge in Namibia, game viewing via boat took center stage, allowing us a close-up perspective of elephants splashing each other with their large trunks and the most beautiful birds I have ever seen.

Lounging at Royal Zambezi Lodge

Just as Karen Blixen, author of “Out of Africa,” says, “If there were one more thing I could do, it would be to go on safari once again.”

The next time I return to Africa, there are still a number of special safari experiences on my list, including a hot-air balloon safari or perhaps game viewing on horseback. Even gorilla trekking is in the top 10. No matter the mode in which I see the animals, I know it will always feel like the very first time. n

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Skeleton Coast National Park

by Eileen Datt

If you feel like one of the last people on earth, you must be at Skeleton Coast National Park!

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’ve always loved traveling to remote areas of the world, but nothing could have prepared me for my experience in Namibia. Namibia is the second-leastdensely-populated nation on earth, and the Skeleton Coast is the least-denselypopulated area of Namibia. When I landed at the airstrip at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, I felt like I’d just landed on the moon. As we approached camp after our short 10-minute drive, the first thought that popped into my head was “Beam me up, Scotty.”

Wilderness Safaris’ new Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a joint venture with the surrounding rural communities of Anabeb, Torra and Sesfontein. In keeping with its very fragile environment, the camp is 100% solar powered and utilizes state-ofthe-art water-management technology; it is also completely removable, without a trace of human presence.

The camp is located on a massive private concession (over a million acres) bordering Namibia’s iconic Skeleton Coast National Park. Hoanib takes seclusion a step further, as it is only accessible by light aircraft, making it ideal for the adventurous traveler seeking an unusual and remote wilderness experience.

One of the highlights of my stay at Hoanib was the full-day excursion to Skeleton Coast National Park. Guests staying at least three nights receive a complimentary tour, which includes a game-viewing drive to Mowe Bay, ending with a scenic flight back to camp.

I set off with my travel companion, Nikki Stander from Wilderness Safaris, and our guide, Elias, driving in the dry Hoanib River in search of desert-adapted wildlife.

We spent the next eight hours (the tour typically takes about four to five)

exploring this vast, isolated park, stopping to photograph huge herds of desertadapted elephants, along with sightings of gemsbok, giraffe, springbok, oryx, ostrich and black-backed jackal.

The high point of the day was the time we spent at the Roaring Sand Dunes.

Standing at the top of the dunes, you see nothing but sand stretching as far as the eye can see. We had the most fun running, jumping and sliding down the dunes. (This could be one of the reasons our tour took eight hours.) The Roaring Dunes have a distinctive sound that comes from the air built up between the dry grains of sand. “When you run, slide or drive over the sand, it pops and “roars.”

After a brief stop at Mowe Bay to see the huge colony of Cape fur seals basking among shipwreck debris, we enjoyed lunch on the coastline before boarding our scenic flight back to camp. We did not see another soul the entire day.

It was such an incredible experience to be alone in this hauntingly beautiful corner of Africa. It gives you a profound perception of just how very big the world really is. n

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Exploring the Enchanted Isles with Lindblad Expeditions

by Sarah Guest

The Galápagos is one of those places that are truly unique in all the world, so much so that each island is a self-contained ecosystem utterly different from the next. The pirates and whalers who were the first travelers to frequent the islands called them “the Enchanted Isles,” and contemporary adventurers will find the name holds true. It is as if a spell is laid on the land, where animals never learned a fear of humans. Sea lions will sport with you in the waves or sunbathe next to you on the beach, cheeky mockingbirds might untie your shoelaces, and blue- and red-footed booby chicks, something like fluffy soccer balls in shape, will peer at you unconcerned from nests just a few feet away.

This seeming Garden of Eden is an alluring destination for families, photographers and nature lovers of all kinds.

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he Galápagos are far from being untouched, however; it has taken a huge amount of work to restore these fragile ecosystems to their current flourishing state, and their preservation takes constant vigilance. Lindblad Expeditions has been an integral part of that story from the beginning with the creation of the Galápagos National Park. When the park opened, Lars Eric Lindblad funded the first year’s salaries for the new park rangers. Fifty years ago Lindblad escorted citizen explorers on the first expedition cruise of the Galápagos, forging a symbiotic relationship between tourism and the park from the start. I got to be a small part of that history, joining Lindblad Expeditions for an eight-day exploration of the Enchanted Isles.

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The Lindblad experience is one of effortless adventure. From the time the guide picked me up at my hotel in Quito, I never had to worry about any details other than which excursions I wanted to go on each day, so I could give all my attention to the delight of my surroundings. And this wasn’t only the case for me: One older man had a cane and a recently injured knee, making it difficult for him to get in and out of the Zodiacs on the rough September waters, but it was no problem for the guides, who made sure two of them could help him in and out each time. They made it possible for him to go on every excursion without anxiety.

In a setting with so much to learn about each animal or geological formation, it would be easy for guides to be didactic, but they conversed rather than lecturing, and I felt I was abroad with good friends who just happened to be brilliant ecologists.

And what adventures I had! When snorkeling, I felt a tug on one of my flippers. I thought it was my swimming buddy (you always swim in pairs) getting my attention to point something out, and when I turned, I came face to face with a sea lion, who snorted bubbles like laughter right in my face and then swam circles around me. It was the season for pups, and we had to dodge the curious little creatures as they came lolloping up the beach to see what we were. I watched waved albatross clack their beaks together in a mating ritual that looked more like a fencing duel.

And I even tried out the LEXspa glass-bottom boat, a floating spa that you reach by Zodiac. My view below the massage table was of drifting schools of brightly colored fish, a mesmerizing display even while the masseuse eased all my aches from days of nonstop snorkeling and hiking.

Continued •••

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I went for the animals, but some of my favorite memories are of the people I met. The sorts of people a Lindblad cruise attracts are as interesting as the cruise itself. I was traveling solo, which could have proved a challenge for snorkeling, since you must swim in pairs for safety. But I’d made friends with a couple on the ride to the airport in Quito, and it turned out the husband didn’t enjoy swimming, so the wife and I became snorkeling buddies.

She is a famous actress in New York, a fact I’d managed to miss until days into the journey, when she mentioned she was excited to be a major character on “The Walking Dead” that season. I hadn’t watched it before, but now I do, and oddly associate it with happy memories of snorkeling. Another friend I met is a sculptor who specializes in the avian form—talk about a perfect place to find inspiration, with huge, beautiful birds that will let you walk right up to admire them. Now when I see her finished waved-albatross sculpture on her Facebook page, I feel like I’m back on Española, listening to their dueling beaks. It was easy to make friends in the laid-back atmosphere of the ship, with the flexible seating for meals and small groups for excursions. I had to leave the Enchanted Isles behind, but I got to take the friendships with me.

Whether you’re traveling solo or looking for the perfect destination for a multigenerational trip, head to the Galápagos with Lindblad Expeditions for the experience of a lifetime. n Red-footed booby coming in for a landing

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South America News Atacama Glamping In this brand new expedition, exclusive to A&K and partnered with Alto Atacama, experience the ultimate stargazing experience in this arid lunar landscape. A perfect combination of luxury tent, dining alfresco, and Chilean wine in hand around a campfire sets the tone for sleeping under the dark skies of the Atacama Desert.

explora Experience Comes to Peru!

Views abound at explora Valle Sagrado Hotel

Opening July 1, 2016, explora Valle Sagrado is located 90 minutes from Cusco in the Sacred Valley. The Sacred Valley at an altitude of approximately 9,500 feet above sea level is the gateway to any trip to Machu Picchu, affording travelers time to acclimate before arriving in Cusco (11,000 feet above sea level). explora continues to stand out from the crowd with high-end lodging consisting of fifty rooms nestled in a terraced fashion on an Inca corn plantation with mountain views. The all-inclusive rates not only include all meals but a variety of over 20 excursions on foot, bicycle or van led by specially trained guides.

Chile’s Lake District The Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira opened in November 2014, approximately a 10-minute drive from the charming resort town of Pucón in Chile’s Lake District. The region is known for its lush forest, snowcapped volcanoes, magnificent peaks, crystalline rivers, and the many lakes that give the region its name. There are 18 attractive suites located in the main building, and facing the Liucura River are the Villa Suites that have individual outdoor baths. The Vira Vira is a proud member of Relais & Chateaux, offering gourmet cuisine and a full range of active and leisurely excursions from trekking to fly fishing to soaking in natural hot springs.

The “Elegance of Adventure” is the hotel’s trademark. A unique element of the hotel is that it is Chile’s only property that is also a working farm and dairy, providing 90% of the products used in the hotel’s cuisine, and resident chef Damián Fernández offers cooking classes to food lovers. A friendly staff provides warm, personalized service that is regularly overseen by the on-site owners, Michael and Claudia Parvicini, a Swiss couple who followed their dream to run an exclusive hotel in a stunning natural setting. The hotel operates as an all-inclusive property, with meals, excursions, and lodging included in the price.

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Peru Sky Lodges Are you a thrill-seeker in search of a unique adventure to compliment the iconic Machu Picchu view? What better way than in a Sky Lodge suite safely secured to the side of a mountain in the Sacred Valley. The way to the top is via ferrata, arriving at sunset, with a zip line return in the morning, including one-of-a-kind views, breakfast, gourmet dinner, wine, and the occasional passing condor (however, not guaranteed).

The Vines Resort & Spa Joins Virtuoso The Vines Resort & Spa in the Uco Valley, Argentina’s most up-and-coming area of wine country, has joined Virtuoso.

Now all Frontiers clients visiting the Vines will receive amenities such as a complimentary room-category upgrade, winery tour and tasting, three-course dinner at Francis Mallman’s Siete Fuegos Restaurant, and daily breakfast for two. The Vines is an ideal location for couples or families, with incredibly spacious all-villa accommodations that feature outdoor hot tubs, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, and full kitchens. Spend the day learning the art of wine blending, enjoy a dawn horseback ride in the Andes, or just relax on your villa patio with a stunning mountain view. n The Vines Resort

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Adding to My Life List: A Birder’s Thoughts on Dream Trips to Costa Rica and Belize

by Harold Brewer, Frontiers Client

Based on my love (and my wife’s) of saltwater fishing, it’s wonderful to spend the cooler months of the year in the Upper Keys of Florida. Part of the fishing experience is the opportunity to embrace other flora and fauna in the areas where I am angling.

Through the many fishing seasons, I began to spend more time in my skiff looking for birds and other wildlife while searching the flats and channels for bonefish and tarpon. What started when I was a child as a small bird-watching hobby has evolved into an absolute passion, and I love to share that experience.

M Belcampo Lodge

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y wife, Mona, and I have traveled with Frontiers on a number of fishing trips and knew that they offered many other unique international outdoor experiences. I have always wanted to travel to Central America to focus on birding, and Costa Rica was at the top of our list. Traveling into remote regions of Central America, we wanted to be comfortable and have access to top-quality guides who knew where to take us safely, and who could help us make the most of our birding time.

Having fished with Frontiers in Central America several times before, we knew they could help. Mike and Kristene Fitzgerald aligned us with their Costa Rica expert, who designed a wonderful itinerary, including three completely different regions of the country.

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We started the trip at Hidden Canopy Treehouses Boutique Hotel, south of Lake Arenal, near the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Bird watchers will delight in the marvels of the cloud forest, and the hotel was wonderful. We stayed in the Rivendell Treehouse, a two-level chalet that was perfect for our group. We were most impressed with our guide. He took us into the reserve, where we found the resplendent quetzal along with many first-time species for each of us.

We then returned to San Jose for an overnight in the Star Villa at Xandari Resort and Spa. It was a really special night, and we had a great early morning guided birding tour. We saw a number of new species right outside of San Jose. We then headed to southern Costa Rica and stayed at Luna Lodge with beautiful bungalows overlooking the rain forest, where we also experienced great birding and lots of other activities. The overall trip exceeded our expectations, and I added over 150 new species to my life list.

Later last year, Mike and Kristene invited us to cohost a Bonefish & Tarpon Trust trip in southern Belize at Belcampo Lodge, which features, along with some excellent permit fishing, birding as one of their activities! Mona and I jumped at the opportunity to travel down a few days before the group to enjoy the birding.

As you come through the main entrance onto the farm, you immediately know that you are in a very special place. The dining experience at the lodge is based almost exclusively on ingredients from their farm. After passing the vegetable gardens, the pastured poultry, the chocolate and coffee buildings, and the sheep, cattle and hogs, we climbed a steep hill through lush vegetation and arrived at the lodge, an oasis of comfort on a bluff overlooking the Rio Grande River and the Caribbean off in the distance. Howler monkeys and beautiful keelbilled toucans right outside the windows! Amazing!

The birding was absolutely incredible. Belcampo’s birding guide, Emmanuel Chan, was a host of knowledge, energy and enthusiasm and is a genuinely nice guy. He took us both on and off property into private reserves for one of the best birding experiences of my life. We located and photographed many hard-to-find species, and I added several dozen additional and interesting species to my life list.

Belcampo is an incredible destination for any group. There are great birding, all kinds of adventures on the farm, snorkeling, Mayan culture, and great fishing. I liked the destination so much that just two months later I returned with my friend Ken Janes for their intensive birding adventure. We had another great experience with Emmanuel as well as with Dr. Lee Jones, who is the author of “Birds of Belize,” the definitive guide to the birds of this beautiful and friendly country.

Call the specialists at Frontiers. They will make sure you have a great experience in the field! n

Harold’s Birding Basics: n Do not be afraid to invest in a good pair of binoculars. They are essential and can last a lifetime. You get what you pay for! My preference is water-resistant 10 x 42. n Get a bird guide for the area you are visiting and study before you go. n Take a small notebook or device app to keep track of your sightings. n Arrange for a guide or a knowledgeable birder to help you get started and progress in this wonderful outdoor pursuit.

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Experience Alaska —Your Way

by Lynda McDonough

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ou will definitely want to put the “Land of the 3 Million Lakes and Some 10,000 Glaciers” on your must-see list. Sam Abell, the famous National Geographic photographer, once said, “For sheer majestic geography and sublime scale, nothing beats Alaska.”

Planes, trains and boats show off our 49th state, but one of the most experiential communions with nature is the small expedition cruise company Un-Cruise. I enjoyed seven nights on the Wilderness Explorer (only 37 cabins) to the Inner

Charming town of Ketchikan

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Reaches Eastern Cove of southern Alaska.

This vessel is equipped with kayaks, paddleboards, inflatable skiffs, hiking poles, yoga mats, and a bow-mounted underwater camera for viewing in-water action. The route is a beautiful display of ice-capped mountains, rugged coastlines, glaciers, and pristine rain-forest terrain.

While the ship caters to the active and adventure spirited, it is nicely balanced with creature comforts such as a hot tub, a sauna, a fitness area, and morningexercise classes. There are little touches such as binoculars and water bottles in each guest room, someone ready to spray off your boots after a hike, or a sit-down session with a map for plotting your course—and my personal favorite, a steaming cup of hot cocoa ready as you get back from a particularly cold trip on the skiff. Evenings are open for relaxation in the lounge, with a fully stocked bar and stimulating lectures on topics such as whales, Alaskan culture, salmon, and

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glaciers presented by an intellectual and enthusiastic staff member.

For a busy day of outdoor activity, a hearty breakfast is a must (options include salmon, the omelet bar, flavored pancakes, and fresh fruit to provide sufficient energy). While breakfast and lunch are buffet-style, dinner is plated. One highlight of our trip was the crab fest, which made for a lively time amongst guests. In addition to a head chef, the Explorer also has a pastry chef who created delicacies each evening. I liked that the dessert portions were small, enabling us to enjoy a sweet without feeling guilty!

We boarded in Juneau and glided through the waters to the Tracy Arm Wilderness and Frederick Sound as our first stop.

Standing on the top deck, I watched the ship float into the Endicott Arm Passage.

The dramatic towering mountains and glacier walls beckoned; it was absolutely resplendent. Dan Blanchard, the owner

of Un-Cruise, came on board and shared his passion and enthusiasm for the trip we were about to take, noting that we should forget about anything other than the immediate experience and just soak it all in. That was not hard to do when my very first sight included Dawes Glacier in all its majesty. The deepest azure-blue granite wall against a backdrop of snow-covered mountains and caverned forest ranges gives one a euphoric feeling.

Each evening, guests can sign up for a wide range of activities and times. The opportunity to hike the rain forest provides a magnificent display of colors, sights and sounds. Hikes range from casual walks along shorelines to guided hikes on trails in the woods to full hiking experiences, called “bushwhacks,” in uncharted areas. My first experience included tromping through the lush, boggy areas called “muskegs,” with their incredible display of nature’s best colors. Stopping to examine colorful toad mushrooms, flowers, and rare plant life, we occasionally indulged in blueberries on the vine. My fellow travelers chuckled upon my return to the ship, as my hair held remnants of the forest: little sticks and pieces of leaves from the hike.

For a more relaxed opportunity to view the scenery and wildlife, the ship offers a number of skiff excursions each day.

Adventurists will want to get up close and personal with the sea and enjoy the kayaks and standing paddleboards.

The ship has a unique floating dock that makes getting in and out of the kayaks easy; it’s a very quick and efficient system.

I tried to avail myself of every activity, but ever mindful of my aversion to the cold, I did opt out of the Polar Plunge!

Un-Cruise Wilderness Explorer

There are also unparalleled opportunities for wildlife viewing while on the cruise.

I saw a group of mountain goats precariously grazing on the rugged mountainside, as well as seals perched upon broken-off pieces of icebergs from the glaciers. While kayaking, I watched sea lions frolic in the water, every so often flipping and splashing in a miniperformance for us. I held my breath in awe a whale 200 yards from my kayak breeched four times before disappearing. I was further star struck, standing on the deck of the ship in the Misty Fjords, upon seeing a beautiful humpback performing a unique acrobatic display, followed by porpoises at play in the brisk waters of the cove.

My chance to see the beautiful bears of Alaska came as I was reading on the deck; the captain announced there were three bears on the shore of the river. The mother bear was searching for salmon, and the two cubs were playing nearby.

And bald eagles reigned supreme as they soared through the air. They were plentiful throughout the trip.

We also visited small towns that larger cruise ships do not. On this sailing we

stopped in the charming Norwegian fishing village called Petersburg. Scads of salmon-fishing boats and tiny cabins line the shores. There is a large replica of a Viking ship and a museum showing the development of the town. The one main street in Petersburg is delightfully full of shops and small restaurants, and the tour finishes with a large salmon cannery at the end of the town. In addition, we gained insight into the heritage of the native tribes, the Tlingit and Haida. The ship invited a local tribal chief to come on board and share some of the legends and lore.

Our last stop on this cruise was Ketchikan, a fishing and timber town that was filled with gold miners in its early days. Creek Street is especially colorful; this main street was a former red-light district, and Dolly’s House Museum depicts the life of a madam during the heyday of the town. Today the town is full of shops and restaurants with a frontier theme.

While Un-cruise describe themselves as Un-expected and Un-rushed, which is certainly true, I would add in my own words that this type of cruising is also quite Un-imaginable in its beauty. n

Breathtaking views from the social deck

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Taking a Fresh Look at Southwest Pennsylvania:

Nemacolin Woodlands

by Jill Jergel

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s a Pittsburgh resident, I’ve long been familiar with Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, nestled in a historic corner of the Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands, just a 90-minute drive from our airport. When the economy took a nosedive in 2009, Nemacolin’s owners, Joe Hardy and his daughter, Maggie Hardy Magerko, focused all energies on keeping their nationwide builders’ supply company, 84 Lumber, from going under. After the dust settled on the economy, and 84 Lumber weathered the storm, perfectiondriven Maggie didn’t like what she saw at Nemacolin. She replaced the entire management team, carefully selecting savvy and experienced hoteliers from some of the most elite properties in the country, and began to redesign the Nemacolin Experience.

During a recent visit, I was completely wowed. My husband and I spent Father’s Day weekend in one of the sumptuous rooms of the château, and we were spoiled for choice with the astonishing array of enticing activities offered, ranging from a child’s dream world of games, play and delight to the ultimate in indulgent spa, shopping and wellness options for the ladies, not to mention everything a sporting gent could wish for, including the finest fly-fishing streams and creeks in the Eastern United States, a premier Shooting Academy, and a championship golf course.

And food? Like the kids say: OMG! I was impressed to learn that the tasting menus at gourmet restaurant Lautrec are designed by Chef Kristin Butterworth, the youngest female chef in the world to helm a Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond restaurant. Between the local farm-to-table ingredients served at Autumn restaurant, the soaring views of the Pete Dye–designed 18th hole at Mystic Rock, and the steakhouse Aqueous, each meal was a temptation of choice. Although I’m always ready for the next destination, be it home, another Frontiers adventure, or our daughter’s house, I truly did not want to leave.

For your next family gathering, winter or summer, I urge you to take a look at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort. Attractive accommodation packages, ranging from the elite Frank Lloyd Wright–styled Falling Rock to the spaciously swank rooms at the château or the beautiful private homes (some are dog-friendly!) available for exclusive use, Nemacolin is now placed at the top of a short list of our nation’s most luxurious and activity-driven resorts in a splendid locale. Book your stay through Frontiers to take advantage of the most current discounts and promotions—plus all returning guests to Nemacolin booking through Frontiers receive 20 percent off their stay plus a $100 resort credit. n

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Defining

First

By Joyce Larkin

In the early days of commercial air travel, flying was simple. There were few airlines, limited routes, and only two travel classes: first and coach. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and you’ll find that flying has become extremely complex, with hundreds of airlines, thousands of routes, and more variations on the four most-common travel classes than ever before.

The Americas

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American Airlines introduced their next-generation Flagship Suites in 2012 and in doing so immediately became a serious competitor for premium passengers in long-haul international markets. This exciting new product provides everything travelers could possibly desire for working, relaxing or resting on board. The unique swivel seat can be transformed from a lounge chair facing the 17-inch touchscreen monitor to an office with a laptop desk, AC power outlets and USB ports, and a view of the clouds to an 82-inch fully flat bed with drop-down armrests for a restful night’s sleep. Cabin amenities include complimentary pajamas and turndown service, an on-demand entertainment system, and a walk-up bar stocked with snacks and refreshments—the first of its kind for a U.S. carrier.

f those four we tend to find first class to be the most misunderstood. Many travelers confuse it with business class, and some are unaware that it even still exists.

But exist it surely does; and while true first-class products are becoming increasingly rare, the best of them offers the absolute pinnacle of luxury air-travel experiences available today.

As with everything in travel, not all first-class products are alike, or even worth the added expense over the ever-improving businessclass seats on the market today. To help define the best of the current first-class experiences available, Frontiers recommends the following carriers and seat products as extravagances that are well worth the splurge!

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While all the major airlines of the Western Hemisphere have significantly upped their business-class game in the last decade, only two carriers still offer an actual first-class cabin on long-haul flights. Both had fallen woefully short of having seat products that could compete in the global marketplace, but one airline is finally catching up with the rest of the world.

American Airlines

American’s new Flagship Suites are offered exclusively on their new Boeing 777-300ERs. The route network for this aircraft continues to expand, increasing your opportunities to sample this excellent first-class product.

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Europe

Air France

First-class cabins have long been a staple among Europe’s legacy carriers, and a variety of products remain on offer in spite of the abundance of flat-seat business-class products on transatlantic routes. Competition is fierce and innovation a point of pride for European carriers, leading to the launch of some excellent new products.

British Airways In the ’80s British Airways was one of the first carriers to introduce the individual-suite concept to first class. Back then they consulted with yacht designers to determine how to best maximize comfort and provide upscale amenities in an environment with limited space. Known simply as First, this seat product paved the way for other first-class suite designs worldwide and has remained one of the finest premier air-travel products available, only receiving its first true overhaul close to a decade into the 21st century.

In 2015, faced with increasing competition from the Gulf State carriers, British Airways once again raised the bar for its First cabins with an even-more-luxurious version of its current design.

For this upgrade the carrier looked to the luxury-automobile industry for inspiration, incorporating quilted seat cushions, armrests and surfaces wrapped in leather sourced from the same supplier that outfits Aston Martin and Jaguar, chrome accents, and an exclusive jog dial that controls the headrest, lumbar support, seat recline, and both reading and ambient lights. In response to customer feedback, the new suites also feature a

Air France has long relied on excellent onboard service to bolster their somewhat-outdated premium products, which until recently included a first-class seat that was more on par with other airlines’ lie-flat business-class offerings. Amazing as they may be, designer-clad flight attendants serving excellent French wines and cuisine can only make up for so much, and Air France realized it was time for an upgrade. Drawing on their country’s flair for fashion and design, France’s flag carrier is creating quite a sensation with their new Le Premiere Suite, the most elegant firstclass product to come out of the Continent in years.

The exclusive Le Premiere cabin is home to only four spacious suites and offers an environment of privacy and serenity. Brightgray fabrics, light wood accents, and soft suede surfaces combine to provide a calming atmosphere that feels more like a fine hotel than an aircraft cabin. Guests on board can enjoy on-demand entertainment on a 24-inch high-definition monitor, indulge in exquisite meals designed by award-winning French chefs, or slumber in total comfort behind chic floor-to-ceiling drapes on 78-inch beds topped by cozy Sofitel MyBed duvets.

This stunning suite is currently only available on limited routes operated by Air France’s new Boeing 777-300 series aircraft, with new markets being rolled out as more aircraft enter the fleet.

variety of useful new storage areas, including a wardrobe large enough for coats and jackets, a divided side cupboard with vanity mirror, a compartment beneath the various power points where electronics can be safely stowed while charging, and a storage ottoman large enough for shoes and a soft-sided handbag. The top-of-the-line Thales entertainment system provides a fixed 23-inch screen, allowing for gate-to-gate IFE controlled by a smartphone-style handset that eliminates the need to touch the screen.

British Airways offers an upgraded First cabin on approximately 80% of their current fleet, but their newest product is available exclusively on their Boeing 787-900 series Dreamliners.

The Gulf States In an area of the world that strives to offer the biggest, tallest, boldest and flashiest versions of just about everything, it comes as no surprise that the region’s airlines are continually setting new standards of excellence. Fortunately for luxury-air travelers, the ongoing sibling rivalry between the national carriers of the United Arab Emirates has resulted in first-class products that are the envy of the global aviation community.

Emirates Although they’ve been flying since the mid-1980s, Emirates took the international-air-travel world by storm in 2003 with the introduction of their first-class suites. With shoulder-height double Continued •••

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doors that completely close off the suite, these ultra-private minicabins instantly changed the way premium-air travelers expected to fly. In keeping with the character of their home city, Emirates packed these suites with every amenity one would expect to find in a lavish Dubai hotel suite—large flat-screen TV, stocked minibar, vanity with lighted makeup mirror, and a handheld control panel that operates all of the suite’s systems from the comfort of the seat/bed—and then added to the wow factor by trimming everything in gold plate!

Comfort goes along with this opulence in the form of a generous reclining seat that transforms to a spacious bed outfitted with a mattress, full-sized pillows, and a fluffy duvet. The illusion of being earthbound while streaking through the sky is enhanced by restaurant-style à la carte dining on demand, a serviced sit-down bar, and mood lighting that evolves throughout the flight from daylight to sunset to a night sky filled with stars.

Emirates have hinted that an even-more-extravagant first-class product is on their horizon, but until it arrives you can enjoy their outstanding classic first-class suite on almost every long-haul route.

And yes, if you are lucky enough to find yourself on their Airbus A380, there is a spa shower, so nothing but sweet dreams here!

Etihad Created in 2003 by a royal decree from the Abu Dhabi government, ambitious Etihad Airways has never been content to remain in the shadow of their competition. The smallest and youngest of the Gulf’s big three carriers, Etihad established themselves early on as a niche carrier focused on safety, service, and being the best instead of the biggest. This strategy soon paid off, with their premium products rapidly taking their place on numerous “world’s best” lists.

enclosed by 64-inch-high sliding doors, and upholstered in fine Poltrona Frau leather. Each apartment features a wide armchair, a full-length ottoman that opens out into a separate 81-inch bed, an adjustable flat-screen TV that can be viewed from the armchair or bed, a vanity with lighted mirror and storage space, a chilled drinks cabinet, and a wardrobe. The spacious seating areas and extendable table allow travelers to entertain colleagues for a business meeting or companions for a private dinner, and a divider between compartments can be lowered to form a double apartment for those traveling with a partner.

First-class public areas include the Lobby, a shared social space with business class, and spacious bathroom facilities featuring an onboard shower room. Still found exclusively on Etihad’s Airbus A380—along with the beyond-first, even-more-amazing threeroom Residence—this exquisite first-class product rivals the very best in the world and is a “must-fly” for the true premium traveler.

Asia Ask any luxury traveler to identify the world’s best airline, and chances are excellent that the carrier they select will call Asia home. From the stalwart veterans to the brash upstarts, the airlines of Asia provide almost an embarrassment of riches for premium-air travelers. But even in a field this strong, a few legends stand apart.

Singapore Airlines

With the inauguration of their Airbus A380 superjumbo, Etihad managed to eclipse even their glitzy neighbor with the debut of their First Apartments. Offering a staggering 39 square feet of living space in the sky, the First Apartment has truly revolutionized flying for the discerning traveler. Located on the upper deck, the nine First Apartments are configured 1-by-1 across a single aisle,

When you’ve garnered as many accolades as Asia’s premier carrier has, people begin to expect great things. As the proud recipient of the designation “world’s most awarded airline,” Singapore Airlines never disappoints. As many carriers struggle to maintain even one worthwhile first-class product, Singapore has three: First, New First, and Suite Class.

While all are excellent in their own way, Suite Class is the breakout star of the airline’s lineup of premium products. Located on the main level of the Airbus A380, Suite Class offers 10 cabins in a 1-by-2-by-1 configuration. Created by French luxury-yacht designer Jean-Jacques Coste, each individual cabin has a sliding

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door and window blinds to afford travelers with complete privacy if desired, while providing room to accommodate a guest for dinner or socializing. Suites feature spacious armchairs and matching ottomans clad in quality full-grain leather, large dining tables that double as a work space, large flat-screen monitors for inflight entertainment, and an innovative bed with attached mattress that folds out from the wall to provide a restful surface on which to sleep.

For couples traveling together, the center suites have partitions that can be completely stowed to form one large accommodation that offers a double bed, the first to ever be offered on a commercial airliner. Combine this outstanding product with the impeccable culinary offerings and flawless service that has become the hallmark of Singapore Airlines, and it’s hard to imagine a flight ever being quite long enough.

Cathay Pacific

In a market that is largely trending toward individual passenger spaces sectioned off by walls, curtains or doors, Hong Kong’s flag carrier has taken a decidedly different approach to their newest first-class cabin. In keeping with their OneWorld alliance partners, Cathay Pacific has rejected the enclosed-seat option and chosen instead to provide an open-concept suite in a low-density cabin.

In spite of possibly being perceived as offering a lack of privacy, Cathay’s new first-class product frequently lands the carrier at the top of savvy travelers’ favorite airline lists.

wines, is provided by gracious flight attendants who treat every guest to Asian hospitality at its finest.

Australia When traveling to destinations that require some of the longest flights in existence, a quality, premium seat product is an absolute must. There are an abundance of foreign carriers offering anywhere from acceptable to excellent options, but when you’re heading Down Under why not travel with the carrier that knows the area best?

Qantas The fact that Australia’s national carrier is the only airline homebased in the region to offer a true first-class product by no means makes it a winner by default. Qantas’ international first class can hold its own against the best in the world. Available in the U.S. market only on their Airbus A380 aircraft, Qantas’ semiopen First Suites are located on the main deck and arranged in an exclusive 1-by-1-by-1 configuration. Although they do not offer full-enclosure walls, the unique seat design manages to maximize privacy through the use of a variety of cleverly placed partitions.

Each suite features a forward-facing seat for takeoff and landing that rotates in flight toward the separate ottoman and TV screen.

As is common in first, the ottoman accommodates a guest and allows for in-suite storage of smaller carry-on bags.

Qantas’ onboard dining experience has been brought to new heights with restaurant-style meals designed by Neil Perry, and their Sommeliers in the Sky advise passengers on which awardwinning wines and champagnes will best complement their selected cuisine. The inflight entertainment system features a 17-inch touch screen on which to view a wide range of movies, television programs, moving maps, and interactive games. Firstclass passengers also have access to the upper-level businessclass lounge for drinks and between-meal snacks. Sleeping is a pleasure in the suite’s fully flat, extra-wide bed that features Qantas’ signature Bedding Down service, complete with a sheepskin-covered foam mattress, luxury pillows, cotton sheets, and cozy blankets and duvets. n

Accommodating just nine passengers on their Boeing 747s and only six on their newer 777s, the spacious, open suites create a cozy, peaceful environment that renders walls unnecessary.

Each suite features 36-inch-wide reclining seats padded with soft leather and comfortable fabrics that convert into 81-inch-long fully flat beds. An ottoman, doubling as a guest seat, is equipped with a seat belt that allows traveling companions to enjoy meals together, a process facilitated by Cathay’s unique table extenders that double guests’ dining space. When it’s time to turn in, the seat transforms into one of the widest beds in the sky, complete with thick mattresses, large pillows, and 500-thread-count cotton duvets. Cathay’s industry-leading cabin service, featuring anytime à la carte dining, premium champagnes, and award-winning Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com •

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UNITED STATES OFFICE 600 Warrendale Rd., Gibsonia, PA 15044 Toll-free 1-800-245-1950 Phone 724-935-1577 Fax 724-935-5388 Email info@frontierstravel.com Website www.frontierstravel.com

EUROPEAN OFFICE Kennet Cottage, Kempsford Gloucestershire, GL7 4EQ, England Tel +44 (0)845 299 6212 Fax +44 (0)1285 700 322 Email info@frontierstrvl.co.uk Website www.frontierstrvl.co.uk

The air holidays and flights in this brochure are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is ATOL 3315.

Copyright © 2016. Frontiers International Travel. All rights reserved.

Photo Credits: Abercrombie & Kent, Lindblad Expeditions, Bristol Hotel, Schonbrunn Palace, The Stafford Hotel, The Berkeley Hotel, Palazzo Margherita, Italian Tourism Board, Villa Kennedy, Oberoi Gurgaon, Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons Resort & Spa, Delano Las Vegas, The Leela Palace, Belmond, Peninsula Shanghai, Tourism Australia, Longitude 131, Emirates One & Only, St. Regis, Paul Gauguin Cruises, Destination Asia, Japan Tourism Board, Amanemu, Prague Tourism, Germany Tourism, Schloss Elmau, France Tourism Board, European Waterways, Uniworld, AmaWaterways, Tarquin MillingtonDrake, Auberge du Jeu de Paume, Original Travel UK, Scotland Tourism Board, Aldourie Castle, Barry & Cathy Beck, Spain Tourism Board, Venice Tourism, Aman Canal Grande, Wilderness Safaris, South Africa Tourism, Ngoma Safari Lodge, Royal Zambezi Lodge, Lindblad Expeditions, explora Valle Sagrado Hotel, South America Tourism Board, The Vines Resort, Harold Brewer and Family, UnCruise, Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, American Airlines, Emirates, British Airways, Etihad, Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Qantas, Crystal Cruises, Tauck, Silversea, Switzerland Tourism Board, Frontiers Staff

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• Call Frontiers 1-800-245-1950 • +44 (0)845 299 6212 in the UK • www.frontiersej.com