Page 1

Volume 9, Number 10

The Bombucha Issue!

Triple Crown FREE

Surfboard & Accessories Buyer’s Guide

+

2012

Preview

Searching for Myles Padaca Evan Valiere Photo: Joli

In Hawai’i


ROB MACHADO PHOTO CHOINIERE


C H I P PA W I L S O N

design unlikely future / analogclothing.com


PHOTO: WOLCOTT


Free Parking

J.D. Irons deep in the belly of a wintertime beast. Photo: Baeseman


10

Free Parking

20

News & Events

26

The Top 30 Moments of the Triple Crown of Surfing

38

Searching for Myles Padaca

42

Dark Horses

60

Aperture

70

Environment

74

Board Buyers Guide

98

She Rips

104

Industry Notes

110

Last Look

Bryce Johnson

Table of Contents


Maui

Whalers Village, KaĘťanapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove


if can, can. if no can, bottle. Either way, liquid aloha.

Editorial Publisher : Mike Latronic Managing Editor : Matt Luttrell Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Copy Editor / Office Manager: Lauren Shanahan Free Thinkers : Casey Butler, Ross Williams, Jordon Cooper SeniorPhotographer : Eric Baeseman

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Chris Burkard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Quincy Dein, Patrick Devault, Jeff Divine, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Dave Homcy, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Sue Li. Mana, Mike McGinnis, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Tom Sanders, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Pake Salmon, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jessica Wertheim, Jimmy Wilson. Sales Senior Sales Executive : Sean Wingate Advertising Executive : Shaun Lopez Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez Advertising Inquiries Manuele Inc. info@freesurfmagazine.com 808-638-7395 www.freesurfmagazine.com

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Editor’s Note Thanks for picking up the first annual Freesurf Bombucha issue faithful freesurfers! Not only is this issue bigger than normal, but we cover two of your favorite topics this month; the 30th Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and a comprehensive list of winter surfboards. With so much goodness packed into one magazine, we hope you don’t froth too hard before the Northern Hemisphere begins sending energy our way. I don’t feel like I am going out on a limb when I say this past summer really sucked for waves. Which is why the crew here at Freesurf is getting so amped about the waves this winter. Every night I’ve been going to bed and dreaming about the North Pacific lighting up the weather maps with big red blobs that are gonna send liquid freight trains as gifts to the reefs of the Hawaiian Islands. I can’t wait to witness the legendary rides, the brutal wipeouts, and the epic contests that will go down over the next couple of months. Even if the waves aren’t as good as last winter’s Triple Crown, it has to be better than this summer, right?! With winter fast approaching, nothing gets you more in the surf mood than buying a new shredstick. Our winter board buyer’s guide is jammed with surfboards from the world’s finest boardbuilders. If you can’t find a board that is right for you in this issue, chances are you just need to stick to riding your sponge. Alright freesurfers, enjoy this winter surf season and may the froth be with you always. - Matt Luttrell


Jon Steele

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replenish “Hawaiian& sttiavy e c a ” t i Superfru

With the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing upon us, there is no sweeter sight than a perfectly executed bottom turn at Pipe to encapsulate what we love about winter. Seeing this shot of Evan Valiere putting it on rail to sneak under the lip of a Pipeline first reef double up is absolutely mental. Valiere has made a career out of charging big Pipeline. In 2011, Evan proved that not only can he free surf Pipeline with the very best of them, but that he could also put a jersey on and compete against them. Evan’s quarterfinal performance at the 2011 Billabong Pipe Masters was validation

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that when Pipe gets BIG, few surfers can ride it as deep and as smooth as Valiere.


News & Events Kailua Shorebreak Classic

Pancho Sullivan and daughter Kirra enjoy a beautiful day.

O

Written by Sean Yano and Mike Miller In addition to the perfect weather and waves, we also had the largest crowd

On Saturday, August 25, 2012, the 8th Annual Kailua Shorebreak Classic

and the most contestants of any years past. All 150 contestants went home

was held in memory of Peter Miller, Jason Bogle, David Aluli, and Jeff

with a prize pack and an event T-shirt specially designed and donated by the

Barbieto. With the surf forecast predicting no wind for the weekend,

head designer of DC Shoes and former Kailua surfer, Gibo Tennburg. The prize

we were crossing our fingers all week hoping for a miracle because

packs included T-shirts, hats, slippers, stickers, wax and lots more from our very

Kailua shorebreak, as the local Kailuans call it, relies on the tradewinds

generous sponsors: HIC Kailua, Volcom, Billabong, Hurley, Rip Curl, Reef, RVCA,

to generate waves. By the time we showed up to Kalama Beach Club at

Twin Islands Clothing, Vertra Sunscreen, Da Kine, Susu Slippers, Sera’s Surf &

dawn on the morning of the 25th, the sun was out, the sky was blue and

Sport, Island Snow, Macbeth Shoes and Kailua Sailboards. All the first place winners in each division won brand new custom surfboards from Hawaiian Island Creations, Jason Shibata and J. Kashiwai, Danny O’Brien, Straight Up Hawaii and Gordon Hansen. This year all proceeds from the donation tickets were donated to Na Kama Kai, a non-profit organization founded by 2010 ASP longboard champion, Duane Desoto, whose mission is to educate and empower the youth in ocean safety and conservation. Just a few of the prize giveaways the crowd went home with included five surfboards donated by Kimo’s Surf Hut, Jimmy Kay from Hawaiian Surfboards, pro surfer Keanu Asing, local surfer Hunter Johnson, and Jason Bogle’s father, Steve. There were skateboards donated by 808 Skate Kailua, Sector 9 and Olley Skateboards, surfboard bags from Freedom Riding Company, backpacks, deck patches, hats, and clothing.

Kaya Pestana

A special thanks to all of the generous sponsors and amazing volunteers, Ku’au Rescue lifeguards who spent the entire day keeping our keiki safe in the water,

the tradewinds had picked up - it was clear the boys pulled through for the

Zia’s Café Kailua, Mr. Emmett Miller (Peter’s father), Mrs. Jan Aluli (David’s

keiki. Jason Bogle was a professional surfer who passed away in 2004

mother), JJ Dolan’s and Brew Threw for providing a delicious meal for all the

after a long battle with bone cancer. His best friend, Peter Miller was

contestants and volunteers, and Jamba Juice Kailua for donating 200 smoothies.

an air ambulance pilot who died in an accident while flying into Maui in 2006. Just 24 hours before his accident, Peter’s close friend, David Aluli

Top professional local surfers Pancho Sullivan, Ross Williams, Keone Watson,

passed away. Last year, a special dedication was given to Jeff Barbieto, a

Glen Matsumoto and Jason Shibata were all on hand to support the keiki and

member of Ku’au Rescue, died in June 2011 while diving in deep waters

they even had their own kids participating in the event.

off the coast of Ewa Beach. 20


V A N S

It

Live

at

P R E S E N T S

w w w . Va n s . c o m / H I C P r o

Official Qualifier of The Va n s T r i p l e C r o w n o f S u r f i n g Watch

Official 2012 HIC PRO T-shirts, Trucker Hats and Posters are available at HIC Stores & www.hicsurf.com

Hawaiian Island Creations - Pearlridge Center, Downtown

T H E

NORTHSHOREOAHU

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News & Events

Kailua Shorebreak Classic Continued This years’ winners were: Timmy Metcalf, Juniors Division (boys 14-16) Ayla Sprecher, Girls Division (girls 16-under) Koa Matsumoto, Boys Division (boys 10-13) Diego Ferri, Groms Division (boys 7-9) Kaleo Relator, Super Groms Division (boys 6-under) But the highlight of the day was when rising surf star and 2011 Shorebreak Classic girls champion, Brisa Hennessy, who turned down an entry into the contest this year to volunteer her time instead, gave away surfboards to two contestants, Scarlet Ray and Niko Ponte, who inspired her with their positive attitudes. That’s truly what this event is all about – providing keiki with an opportunity to build confidence, sportsmanship, and friendships through surfing and the entire community coming together to remember Kailua’s best.

A

Tenth Annual John Kelly Awards Attention all surfers and environmentalists, please mark your calendar and Save the Date of November 17th, because you don’t want to miss the 2012 John Kelly Awards. Join Surfrider as they celebrate the men, women and pro surfers that work to protect our ocean for the 10th annual awards. You might even see Freesurf’s very own Cora Sanchez at the awards. Last year Cora won the Lifetime Achievement award, following 2010 winner Mark Cunningham and 2009 winner Yvon Chouinard.

J

Just when you think the man can’t set any more records, Kelly Slater goes out and dominates the competition yet again. Trestles, the site of Slater’s first professional victory way back in 1991, served up the 11 time champ with his 50th career victory this past September. The King showed why he is the undisputed master of the surfing universe as he decimated the competition at the world’s most rippable wave in California. Switching up equipment on the last day, Kelly took down Mick Fanning in the semis and an in-form Joel Parkinson in the finals on a quad he designed himself. Slater’s victory jumps him ahead of John John Florence into 3rd place coming into the European leg. With four events remaining, everyone is hoping that the world title comes down to

Kirstin ASP

Pipeline. Especially John John.


News & Events

John John Wins 2012 Kustom Air Strike

T

The wonder kid has done it again, winning 50 large for a sweet little frontside stalefish rotation that he stuck while in the Mentawais. Currently number 4 in the world, 2012 has been the year of John John Florence. Starting the year off with a victory at the Volcom Pipe Pro, following that with a victory at Margaret’s River, then winning his first WCT event at the Billabong Rio Pro, JJF continues to show the world that he is the ultimate package. And proof that the world’s most progressive surfer is also one of the best competitors.

Effin’ Stick Fish

As if surfers in Hawaii don’t already have enough to worry about with big waves, heavy currents, heavy locals, sharp reefs and various ocean predators. We can now officially add Giant Needle Fish, commonly called the stick fish, to the list! Yes, the Stick Fish (scientifically known as the Stongylura gigantea) is a somewhat easily frightened

reef dweller that has just shot up the danger list. Sunset Beach resident Dave Cunningham was simply duck diving a breaking wave at Sunset Beach when a stick fish, swimming at high velocity, punctured the skin adjacent to his eyeball and temple. The “stick” lodged itself dangerously in Dave skull. The good news is that Mr. Cunningham is recovering. A few millimeters towards Dave’s eye and this might have been a very sad story.


North Shore Menehune Surfing Championship

N

Nothing signals the beginning of surf season like the 36th Annual North Shore Menehune Surfing Championship. Held at Haleiwa Alii Beach Park on October 20-21 and October 27-28, this fun contest was started back in 1977 by the late Rell Sunn and friends. Head on down to Haleiwa for

Photos: Island Style Images

some good family fun!

Naked Juice

C

Can you do this with your Naked Juice? Rochelle Ballard shows off her yogi-like moves while enjoying a delicious Green Machine and a Blue Machine.


It’s the most wonderful time of the year! No, I’m not talking about Christmas (or Hanukkah or Kwanza), I’m talking about the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Comprised of three events held at Haleiwa, Sunset and Pipeline, the Triple Crown is the ultimate test of a surfer’s versatility. No title in surfing is more prestigious than the Triple Crown. Some pundits even lay claim to the notion that a Triple Crown title is more important than a world title. Created by Fred Hemmings and Randy Rarick, 2012 marks the 30th anniversary of the Triple Crown of Surfing. Since Michael Ho won the first Triple Crown title back in 1983, only twelve other men have won the title during the last 29 years. Think about that for a second. Just 13 men have won the Triple Crown, and most of these men have multiple wins. Sunny Garcia leads all others with 6 Triple Crown titles. Andy Irons won 4 as did Derek Ho. Michael Ho won 2 as has Kelly Slater. And most recently we’ve seen Joel Parkinson win 3. While the Triple Crown brings a sudden influx of humanity, the high drama that unfolds each November and December have become the stuff of legends. Dreams are made and dreams are crushed in 30 minute heats. And one wave here in Hawaii has been known to make a surfer’s career. Which reminds everyone that Hawaii continues to be the surf world’s ultimate proving grounds.

26

Brian Bielmann

Top 30 Moments of the Triple Crown of Surfing


2002

AI Wins Pipe and Triple Crown

Andy headed into Pipe with the World Title already clinched, yet without a victory at Pipe, his little brother Bruce was going to continue to lord it over him. In the finals, Andy caught a wave at Backdoor with 3 minutes left to snatch the victory from longtime Pipe charger Shane Dorian’s grip. The victory also marked the first time Andy would beat Kelly Slater in the finals at Pipe.


Gordinho

1982

Michael Ho Wins Pipe Masters with Broken Wrist Ho’s Pipeline victory with a broken wrist might have technically happened the year before the first Triple Crown officially kicked off. However, his amazing win at Pipe certainly helped propel the powerful regular footer to victory in the inaugural Triple Crown title in 1983, and again in 1985.

1983

Michael Ho Wins Inaugural Triple Crown

1985

Michael Ho Wins Triple Crown

1987

Tom Carroll Wins Pipeline Masters “One of my favorite moments from Triple Crown was 1987 when Tom Carroll won the Pipeline Masters. His sister had died in a car accident

1989

the day before so to see him win that was pretty special.” Faith Wenzl

Cheyne Horan Wins Billabong Pro

“Cheyne Horan and Ross Clarke Jones in the finals and the waves were perfect. I remember the waves being 10 to 12, and just barreling on the inside. I was still pretty young, taking it all in, taking notes on the beach. I was hanging out with Cheyne Horan and checking out what he was doing. He was taking bee pollen and ginseng, buzzing all around. Such a funny character. It was the biggest prize purse in the history at that time, $50,000 for first. That really got my motor spinning. These guys are making pretty good money out here. That was a game changer for me. And that was a great day for Cheyne Horan to win that and walk away with that cash.” Myles Padaca

1984 Bielmann

1980

1983

Derek Ho Makes First Pipe Masters final A 19 year old Derek Ho makes his first Pipe Masters finals, finishing 3rd while Dane Kealoha wins the event.

1984

Derek Ho Wins Triple Crown

1986

Derek Ho Wins Pipe Masters & Triple Crown

1988

Derek Ho takes it back

1990

Derek Ho wins 4th Triple Crown


Bielmann

1987

Kong becomes First Aussie to take the Crown

Late 80’s

Gary Elkerton Dominates Sunset “In the late 80s, the climax of that era was when Gary Elkerton was a force out here at Sunset Beach. There had been a lot of good surfers and through the 60s and early 70s when you really had to make your mark at Sunset. I think in the late 80s and early 90s was really the peak of that performance, and the guy who did it better than anybody in my opinion was Gary Elkerton from Australia. He was a really powerful surfer and he loved Sunset Beach. In fact, he won two Triple Crown events back to back at Sunset and went on to win the actual Triple Crown title in the late 80s. I don’t think anybody has really dominated Sunset since then.“ Randy Rarick

1988

1992

1991

Tom Carroll’s Pipeline Snap Never before had a surfer made such a critical turn in a Pipe contest. Even 21 years later Tom Carroll’s turn remains the balliest snap ever executed underneath a

Photos: Joli

Pipeline lip. Period. TC’s snap put the exclamation mark on his victory at Pipe and the Triple Crown title.


Sunset bows to Pipeline “What defined the 90s was Kelly Slater and the Momentum generation. Prior to that you had to cut your teeth here at Sunset Beach. The Momentum generation’s thinner more rockered boards, they didn’t work at Sunset Beach. Quite honestly, that equipment change changed the whole emphasis on what was going on here at the North Shore, particuraly at Sunset. Kelly singlehandedly shifted the whole emphasis down to Backdoor Pipeline, Off the Wall, and that whole little stretch because his boards worked there. And that really began to define the guys that surfed Backdoor Pipeline. Before that it was all about going left at Pipeline and getting tubed. But all of sudden you have guys going Backdoor getting totally barreled and it was harder to ride it, but the boards allowed it to happen. And what was interesting, those same boards didn’t work out here at Sunset Beach. One of the facts is, Kelly Slater has never won a contest at Sunset. So to ride Sunset, you need a thicker, bigger board that can handle a much bigger playing field. All of sudden the boards are smaller, thinner, higher rockered, work perfectly in those barrels at Backdoor Pipeline, but no longer worked out here. So complete generation shift, and with it, the media went with it. So all of sudden the emphasis was no longer at Sunset Beach, no you gotta make it work at Pipeline, and Backdoor Pipeline in particular. So that early to mid 90s completely changed the whole playing field. And with it, it changed how equipment was made. How surfing was done. And a whole new generation of surfers came along with it. So that was

Rick Doyle

really was the second coming, or second generation here on the North Shore.” -Randy Rarick

1993

Derek Ho Wins Pipe and World Title “Watching Derek Ho beat Tom Carroll at the 1993 Pipeline Masters, that was a moment that should have been in a book the way it happened. Two years before, back in 1991, Derek let Tom take that wave in 1991 and lost the contest. But in the 1993 Pipe Masters, Derek got him back.” Ben Aipa

1995

Pipe Masters Final High-Five When best friends and competitors Kelly Slater and Rob Machado met in the finals of the 1995 Pipe Masters, most people thought it would be a tense affair. Which is why it was all the more surprising when Rob Machado gave Slater a high five after threading a perfect Pipeline barrel mid-heat. The ultimate moment of surfing bro-dem ever witness in contest before or since.

1993

1995 Gordinho

1992

Sunny Garcia Goes to the Hospital Twice at Pipe. Sunny wins his first Coors Light Triple Crown of Surfing yet loses to Slater at Pipe Masters. “Sunny is a very hard guy. But he backs it up. When he got injured at Pipe, I was working with him. I told him, you don’t need to go back out there unless you want to. You don’t have to. He looked at me and said, “I want to.” Boom, he went out. In the finals against Kelly, Kelly was concerned about Sunny being hurt. As a competitor, Kelly never really used that opportunity to beat Sunny. Kelly backed off on a lot of waves that could have taken out Sunny completely. Because of Kelly’s sportsmanship, and as a person, he did this for Sunny. Sunny knew it, and he didn’t like it. And for Kelly, he was just trying to be another surfer, or friend, rather than a competitor. I told myself, this guy is gonna be a multi-world champion. For Sunny, going through this, it shows how core he is. It shows in his surfing. The way he talks. Sunny backs it up.“ Ben Aipa


THE LANAI AVAILABLE AT: BoArdrIdErs NorTh shorE / BoArdrIdErs WArd CENTEr / BoArdrIdErs PoIPu


Gordonho

2001

Myles Padaca Wins Triple Crown “Watching my good friend Myles Padaca win the Triple Crown was pretty amazing. It was cool to see the effort that he put in. To see someone that wasn’t on tour, that supposedly isn’t anointed as one of ASP’s best surfers in the world take down everybody. He beat out the world champions, everyone that came here to compete in it, as a local wildcard entrant, and won it all. So that was really inspiring. Won Sunset. Made the finals in Haleiwa. One of the great moments in Triple Crown history and for Hawaiian surfers”. Pancho Sullivan

Kelly versus Andy “The 2000s were the Kelly-Andy rivalry. Their rivalry made for some of the best clashes ever. I think it really helped push both of their surfing. Kelly has said many times if it wasn’t for Andy he wouldn’t have kept going. And Andy was the same, he wanted to dust Kelly. That rivalry through the mid-

Cestari / ASP

2000s really drove the Triple Crown.” Randy Rarick

1997 1997

Johnny Boy Gomes Wins Pipe Masters “Power. The guy was surfing so strong that he was one of the very few people you never worried about coming through waves. His drive, the momentum,he jut had so much inertia out at Pipeline. And who can forget his rail grabs, pig dogging the Pipeline lefts perfectly. He was evolutionary. He didn’t invent the rail grab, but he certainly perfected it.” Mike Latronic

2000 2001

Bruce Irons Wins Pipe It wasn’t just Bruce who was stoked about his victory. Myles Padaca won the Triple Crown because of it. “Pipe was an invitational that year. I think I lost in my first heat. I was sidelined, just there watching, doing all the math in my head. Trying to think: What does Mick Fanning need to pass me? What does Andy need to pass me? It got so crazy I just had to leave the beach and go back to my house. Andy was in the semifinals with his brother Bruce. I was like, “Its done, Andy’s gonna make it and win it, I’m over it.“ So I left the beach. And Bruce ended up beating Andy in the semis, and went on to win the contest. I got a call saying “come down you won this.” I asked them if they were sure. I thought I had done the math. I was never that good at math anyways. I ended up winning by 20 or 30 points or something crazy like that.” Myles Padaca


Karen

2006

Andy’s Amazing Victory over Kelly at Pipe Masters “ Andy was comboed by Kelly. But Andy crawled back out of the grave. Posted a high score on a left. Needed a big score to come back and Andy scored a 10 in the dying seconds of the heat. It was crazy to see it because Kelly wanted the wave but Andy was deeper. Kelly fended for it, but Andy was in the right spot and had priority so he went and got the 10. The whole beach erupted. It was a chicken skin moment. It was crazy to be there to witness the energy and intensity and the level that they took surfing at Pipe that day, and that heat. It was awesome.” Myles Padaca

2004

Jamie O’Brien Wins Pipe “A favorite memory is the year Jamie O won. It was just so neat to see a local haole kid raised on the North Shore, right there at Ke Nui Road, to see him win that year. What was so sweet about that, all afternoon he kept wearing his blue singlet that he won the contest in. He went across the street to the Sunset Beach Elementary School Kickball contest and was still wearing his leis and contest jersey. Late into the night at the after-party at his backyard there at Pipeline he was still wearing his singlet just stoked out of his mind. I remember lifeguarding with Jamie’s dad Mick for many Cestari / ASP

years, and watching Jamie as a grom. It was pretty neat to see him come from a little grom eating sand under the tower to winning the Pipe Masters.” Mark Cunningham

2003

2007

2005

2007

“The year Pancho won at Haleiwa and the stoke and celebration

Makua’s come from behind victory at the World Cup of Surfing at Sunset was

throughout the whole North Shore community was pretty special. There

simply amazing. Needing a 9 point ride, Makua caught a 10 foot West peak

were the signs on the side of Kam Highway saying Yeah Pancho! I’m

with 2 minutes left, threaded a barrel and gouged a huge turn to take the win in

getting chicken skin now remembering it. But just how much love, aloha,

dramatic fashion.

Pancho Wins Haleiwa to qualify for WCT

support and stoke there was for Pancho’s win at Haleiwa. That was pretty cool.” Mark Cunningham

Makua Rothman Wins Sunset World Cup


Bilderback

2008

Kelly Slater Reclaims Pipe Masters title It had been nine years since Kelly had won a Pipe Masters. Having lost to AI in 2003 and 2006, Kelly was due in 2008. Slater showed up to Pipeline with a board he shaped himself. Dubbed the Deep Six, the 5’11” x 18.5” x 2.5” round pin proved to be one of the most innovative boards ever ridden to victory at Pipeline. The King’s victory at Pipe solidified that no

Heff

one rides the place better.

2011

John John Florence Wins Sunset World Cup and Triple Crown “John John’s performance out here at the Vans World Cup of Surfing last year. Pipe’s been the focus of the last 10 years. Kelly and all the Pipeline boys, Andy and Bruce. Sunset has sort of been forgotten. Back in the early days in the 70s and 80s you had to prove yourself at Sunset. And to see John John surf Sunset, 19 years old, and just put on a dominant performance. Yeah, we know he rips Pipeline. But he came out here last year and absolutely ripped it in solid 8 to 10 foot Sunset. Just tore through the field and won the contest.” Marty Thomas

2011

Kierren Perrow Wins Pipe Masters “A memory that comes to mind is Kierren Perrow’s path to winning the Billabong Pipe Masters. The year before last is when he was in the final against Jeremy Flores and he had the heat won. Kierren had that priority error, and Jeremy got that wave in the last minute and beat him. And Kierran, you could just tell he was crushed thinking this was my chance. Then he comes back the next year and fights his way all the way through to the final and takes it out. Hats off to Kierren Perrow, that was a great moment.” Marty Thomas

Everyone Goes Home “I guess maybe my favorite moment of the Triple Crown is the last day of the Pipeline holding period. And the circus leaves town and it is all over. (laughing) The traffic backs off and the congestion backs off. The tension and energy in the lineup ease up a little bit and things settle down a bit. And it’s over. “Mark Cunningham

2011 Cesari / ASP

2008


3

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Ells

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Triple Crown by the Numbers 1 Total Prize Purse $925,000 , 39 Days long. 2 Sunny Garcia has won 6 triple crowns. 34, oldest surfer to win Sunny. Most wins at Reef Hawaiian Pro @ 5. 3 Derek Ho has won 4, Michael Ho 2, only brothers to win. 4 Surfers have won all events, Andy Irons, Mark Richards & Gary Elkerton @ 3. 5 Most wins at World Cup of Surfing, Joel Parkinson and Michael Ho @ 3. 6 Most wins at Pipe Masters, Kelly @ 6. 7 Most wins within the Triple Crown, Sunny & Andy @ 7. 8 Youngest surfer to win John John @ 19.

5

Bernie Baker

2

Gordinho

6

Marcher

Marcher

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pancho / TRaDER onE / ExclusivEly aT haWaiian RETailERs / availablE nov 15. E

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Heff

Searching for

Myles Padaca Since the Triple Crown debuted in 1983, every man who has won the coveted crown has been a competitor on the ASP World Championship Tour. Every year that is, save for one. Coming into the 2001 Triple Crown, no one was betting that Myles Padaca would be a front running contender for Hawaii’s prestigious title. Not because he didn’t have the talent. Padaca had plenty of talent. Myles had proved he could hang with the big boys in great waves during the 1997 Skins Event at Bells Beach. On that epic day, Padaca had been the only surfer to best a raging Mark “Occy” Occhilupo in flawless six to eight foot Bell’s bowl. Myles had taken the only skin from Occy, the eventual contest winner. No, it wasn’t talent. It was because he no longer traveled the world on the Qualifying Series to compete in crappy beach breaks. Or in the words of Pancho Sullivan, “he wasn’t feeding the (ASP) meter.” It should go without mention that 2001 was a crazy year. That fall, after the attacks, the world felt as if it were upside down. In response, the ASP cancelled the European leg of the tour. After just 4 events, the surf world descended on the North Shore of Oahu for its annual winter pilgrimage, and for the final WCT event of the year, the Rip Curl Cup at Sunset. If Padaca were to have a shot at the Triple Crown title, he would have to battle through the trials at Sunset for a chance to compete against the ASP’s top ranked surfers at his adopted break. Fresh off a 3rd place finish at Haleiwa, Myles charged into the trials at Sunset. Equipped with some fresh Dick Brewer surfboards and the hard fought knowledge that came from spending 10 years climbing Sunset’s pecking order, Myles was ready to battle Hawaii’s best. He took down all challengers, besting Kekoa Bacalso in the finals of the trials. Winning the trials was a huge accomplishment in of itself, yet Padaca was just getting started. Myles tapped into everything he had learned surfing alongside good friends Pancho Sullivan and Noah Johnson during the main event. Padaca navigated Sunset’s tricky lineups and advanced to the finals, taking down C.J. Hobgood and Kalani Robb in the process. Myles met Australia’s Mick Lowe in the final of the Rip Curl Cup. (Incidentally, this was the last man-on-man heat ever held at Sunset during the Triple Crown.) Held in perfect 10 foot Sunset, Myles took advantage of his preternatural knowledge of the North Shore’s most complex reef and nabbed the best waves during the final. Lowe kept getting caught inside, copping sets on the head, and never really found his rhythm in the shifty lineup. Padaca sealed the victory by sliding into his last wave, a classic Sunset peak that offered up two barrels for the victor. Myles Padaca’s victory at Sunset and the overall Triple Crown title in 2001 was destiny fulfilled, pure and simple. Ever since Myles had first surfed Sunset he had been hooked on the infamous spot. While Padaca’s victory wasn’t a surprise to surfers on the North Shore, to the surf world the 30 year old’s victory was unheralded since no other unseeded surfer had ever won the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing before (or since). With his victory earnings from the Rip Curl Cup and Triple Crown, Myles bought himself a property, right before the real estate boom hit Oahu. A fairytale ending for the kid who learned how to surf powerful waves on the wave battered Southeast side of the Big Island. Myles had grown up in Kalapana, a place exposed to wind swells and summertime South swells. “That’s where I started learning about powerful waves,” Myles recounts. “I used to be scared, of course, just like everyone else out there, but I took the baby steps.” Padaca made his first trip over to the North Shore when he was 15. He had qualified to surf an event on Oahu by placing in the finals of a Big Island pro-am event. It was during this initial trip that Myles first surfed Sunset, slowly gaining a spot in the lineup over the next 5 years during his annual winter visits. At the age of 20, Myles left the Big Island to move over to the North Shore, triggered by the lava flow that consumed Kalapana. “The lava came down and consumed a whole village. 250 homes. 10 really good surf breaks. Out of the 10 surf breaks, probably 2 world class waves. When that finally happened in 1990, it ran over all the reefs and all the waves. I was going to school at the University of Hawaii Hilo at the time. I was at a point in my life where I was like, I’m gonna put 100% into this pro surfing thing,” Padaca recalls.

38


Baesemann

“I think a lot of people have said over the years that the Triple Crown is the second most prestigious thing you could win compared to a world title. I think its the first. These are three of the most challenging waves in the world. It takes a lot of focus. A lot of preparation. Dedication. It’s mentally, emotionally, not to mention physically draining. You have to change your act in each event. You kind of have to do that on the World Tour, but your not dealing with life threatening conditions like you see here on the North Shore events.” Pancho Sullivan

Myles landed on the North Shore, poor but stoked. Initially, he ate saimin and lived in a closet. Yet, Myles was completely content because he was surfing Sunset every day. “That’s when I started hanging with Pancho and Noah Johnson and a few of the other boys,” Padaca remembers. “We would all hang out and surf big waves together. Kind of like earn our stripes. Push each other. It was a great time just to be young and learn. Carefree with no responsibilities. It was pretty special.” For Myles, surfing on the North Shore was a drastic change from the Big Island. “The North Shore has a couple of hundred spots in this 10 mile stretch, and it (moving) just seemed like a no-brainer to me,” Padaca says. “Because on the Big Island you’d have to drive an hour or two to the Kona side. The surf wasn’t as accessible as it is here. Not only that there are so many good surfers that set up camp here for 6 months out of the year. Watching all these great guys, all these legends of the sport, it’s beneficial to your surfing.” With Pancho and Noah pushing his surfing, Padaca made a career out of free surfing heavy waves around the world. Myles graced every cover in the surf magazine world, displaying a brand of committed technical power surfing that would become his trademark. Yet, despite Myles enormous talent, competitive success didn’t exactly follow suit. Before the 2001 Triple Crown, Myles best contest results were a runner up finish at the 1997 HIC Pipeline Pro and a win at the 2000 Asahi Pro at Sunset Beach. Which means (on paper at least) Myles Padaca came out of nowhere to win the 2001 Triple Crown. And it leads us to the inevitable question: who is the next Myles Padaca? There is no one better to ask that question than Padaca himself. “I hope that there is another,” says Myles. “And I do believe there is another surfer that is young, capable, and willing, who has all the tools, and is working hard right now. The cool thing about Hawaii is we have such a crazy crop of new generation surfers. From the Moniz Brothers, to Zeke, and Keanu.” Padaca continues: “If you break it down to these three events in Hawaii, you would need a quarterfinals or better at Haleiwa to legitimately have a shot. If you make a final at Sunset, and carry that momentum to Pipe, that’s what it is all about, being in the Top 5 to have a chance for the Triple Crown. I think there are guys out there that are capable, and are talented enough. Having all these different variables come into play and fall in place for yourself, that’s what it takes. Being focused. Having the boards, the right equipment, and having a good support group. I think there is another underdog if you will out there in Hawaii. Maybe he’s on one of the outer islands, he’s under the radar, he’s working tail off just to be a better surfer. Safe to say, I hope they are out there listening. If you guys want it bad enough, and you apply yourself, it’s very attainable.” It seems like the 30th Vans Triple Crown of Surfing would be the perfect setting to watch an upstart from Hawaii grab the title. Everyone loves an underdog, so with that in mind we compiled a list of 9 Dark Horses to watch out for this Triple Crown. While they might not win it all like Myles did back in 2001, each one of these surfers has the ability to take out a contest victory should the waves cooperate.


Baesemann

Dark Horses

Jamie O’Brien The Freak surfs Pipe like a cat on acid. JOB already has a Pipe Masters victory, it would be interesting to see him make a run for the Triple Crown title.


Ells

Joel Centeio Joel is always dangerous out at Haleiwa. It’s his home break. He won the event back in 2009. He got 2nd in 2010. Oh, did we mention that Joel is no slouch out at Sunset and Pipe?


Having competed on the WCT, Bam isn’t afraid to mix it up with top 34 professionals. Kekoa’s committed rail surfing is precise, so if the waves are firing at Haleiwa for the Reef Hawaiian Pro, watch out.

Rock

Kekoa Bacalso


Heff

Hank Gaskell If there is a favorite local surfer to take out the Triple Crown, it would be Hank. Extremely talented and hard working, Hank’s professional career has been far from easy. Yet that hasn’t kept a good man down as evidenced by Gaskell making the finals at Sunset last year.


Kirstin / ASP

Evan Valiere One of two goofyfooters on the list, Valiere is a fantastic Pipe surfer. What often gets overlooked is his ability out at Sunset where he draws big, committed lines. Evan can even shine in the small stuff.


Heff

Pancho Sullivan Pancho is still the man out at Sunset, especially if the waves are firing. Having won Haleiwa to qualify for the WCT at 32, Sullivan is more than capable of making a legitimate run at winning the Triple Crown should the waves be intense.


Kirstin / ASP

Roy Powers Another former WCT surfer, and a former Reef Hawaiian Pro champion, Roy Powers has always had the talent to string together a huge Triple Crown result. For this Kauai surfer to make an impact, the waves need to fire.


Latronic

Marcus Hickman This Sunset beach local is just as big of a threat out at Pipe as he is at Sunset. If you need further proof that Marcus Hickman could contend for the Triple Crown, Marty Thomas named him as a guy to watch out for this winter.


Cestari / ASP

Kai Barger: The other goofy footer on our list, this former World Junior Champ is poised for a breakout Triple Crown. Especially considering his performance at this year’s Volcom Pipe Pro.


Aperture

No one has spent more time packing barrels out at Backdoor Pipeline than John John Florence. Photo: Baesemann


Shane Dorian prepares to wear the set of the day at Waimea straight on the head. Photo: Bielmann


Kamalei Alexander putting it on rail at the Banzai Pipeline. Photo: Latronic


Flynn Novak looking for the exit. Photo: Bielmann


Jonah Morgan, perfectly slotted. Photo: Latronic


Jesse Merle Jones lighting up Rocky Point. Photo: Heff


Photo: Navy

Tsunami Debr is s i r b e D e n i Mar Triple Cr own and the

an

-Lauren Shanah

sy Navy

Photos: Courte

The winter season is upon us and the swells about to hit the north shore may possibly be washing up a little more debris than normal. Since the Fukushima Japan tsunami debris has already made appearances in Canada, Alaska, Washington, and Oregon, is it possible that it will be the guest of honor this year during the Triple Crown in Hawaii? It seems the answer is yes, as in recent weeks Hawaii has begun to see the first bits of tsunami debris washing ashore. What further debris awaits us these winter months? An estimated 5 million tons of debris washed into the Pacific Ocean on March 11th,, 2011. 70% (3.5 million tons) of this waste sunk almost immediately amongst Japan’s seabed deposits. The remaining 30% (1.5 million tons) has been drifting along the Pacific on ocean and wind currents. The Great Pacific Garbage Gyre, (a concentrated area of plastic marine debris in the North Pacific Ocean) is the final destination for much of the floating tsunami trash, while the rest will continue to wash ashore throughout coming years. And with wind currents moving flotsam along the ocean’s surface quicker than water currents can, we’re already seeing the first bits of debris wash ashore Hawaiian beaches. Late last month, a large blue plastic bin was found in Waimanalo, confirmed as the first piece of tsunami debris to hit Hawaii. Another 30 x 50” floating dock is making its way toward Oahu from Molokai, threatening to beach itself as well. So far, the shattering magnitude-9 earthquake/tsunami has washed up other things like a Harley Davidson motorcycle in a container, a 66-foot floating pier, a 20-foot fiberglass boat, fishing floats and vessels, sports balls, plastic bottles, and more along the North American coastline, all confirmed as tsunami flotsam. Interestingly enough, only twelve items have been officially verified as tsunami debris. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) have been diligent with research updates, blogs, and informative websites to answer the public’s questions. But a lot of the rumors and misconceptions are still floating around, and people want answers that NOAA simply can’t produce. A lot of what’s happened isn’t well understood. There weren’t any previous studies on the 70


effects of Japanese tsunamis along Hawaiian coastlines. The fact that there has been little research on this catastrophe has caught everyone off guard. However, in recent months, NOAA reported that the tsunami debris is not quite the compacted mass we imagined. Much of the debris has already been scattered, with flotsam reaching western shores intermittently. NOAA does recognize that the amount of resources necessary for large-scale removal efforts (of trash from our coastlines) is something they cannot do alone. The administration will be partnering with federal, state, and local businesses to reduce the potential impacts of the debris within the coastal communities distressed by the debris. Ocean trash is still an ongoing problem beyond what the tsunami has deposited, and Hawaii remains greatly affected by this. Carey Morishige, NOAA’s Pacific Islands Regional Coordinator talked with Freesurf about the tsunami debris and what’s currently drifting around. She says that lighter floating debris (such as buoys and styrofoam) has already come and gone through Hawaii, moving with the circular patterns of the Pacific Ocean currents and being pushed along even quicker by the wind. The highest floating debris travels the fastest, therefore passing over the Hawaiian archipelago sooner than the heavier debris can wash ashore. “The tsunami was a single natural disaster event that sent out an influx of debris,” says Morishige, and while the tsunami debris is massive in size, researchers say it barely compares to the amount of trash getting dumped into our ocean regularly. The tsunami litter represents only part of a larger issue, and determining the damage from the tsunami is like determining the weather, uncertain. Marine debris continues to plague our oceans and clutter our beaches, harming sensitive ecosystems and damaging coral reefs. This is the big ongoing issue that Hawaii has been facing for years. While the public wants answers to their tsunami debris related questions, the truth is tsunami debris is almost impossible to decipher from everyday marine debris. Especially in Hawaii. With so many products and materials from Asia of our own, it’s hard to distinguish between what’s tsunami related and what’s simply Hawaii trash. We’ve seen things like Japanese fishing floats, wrappers and bottles with Japanese characters, and fishing nets wash up on our beaches for a long time. But only after the tsunami are people now having a heightened awareness to it all. The debris pushed out by the tsunami isn’t quite what the media was sensationalizing (i.e. human remains and radioactive material). As far as negative impacts from the tsunami debris go, Morishige says that “there won’t be anything much different from what we’ve seen in the past.” Worse-case scenarios for Hawaii include threats of coral reef and habitat damage, marine life entanglement, ocean navigational dilemmas, and more interestingly, alien species introductions. One of NOAA’s biggest concerns regarding the tsunami debris is hitchhiking invasive species. Hitchhikers include an array of barnacles, mussels, starfish, algae, seaweeds, worms, urchins, snails, and more, many of which are considered invasive by conservationists. Two species found attached to the floating dock that washed up in Oregon were documented by NOAA to be on the “top 100 international most invasive species list,” reports Morishige. Alien species could pose a huge threat to sensitive habitats in the path of tsunami debris, and present costly eradication efforts that simply are not in the budget. There has already been major spending for the eradication of a particular seaweed species in California, $7 million to be precise. Hawaii experts are coming together with the larger national research groups to learn more about


alien species threatening our ecosystems, preventative measures, and how to handle what will continue

So what can we do as a community to prepare

to wash up.

for the arrival of tsunami debris? Get involved in statewide clean-up efforts, be aware of

The International Coastal Cleanup (ICC), which is the Ocean Conservancy’s largest volunteer effort for

beach debris, and report anything abnormal.

world-wide marine debris elimination, is focusing their efforts on informing people of what to expect

Hawaii has yet to set up a hotline number for

and how to help. Chris Woolaway, the ICC Coordinator for Hawaii says that the largest concern for

debris sightings, but you can send a detailed

our environment is the amount of fishing gear that is washing our way. Thirteen Japanese fishing

email to disasterdebris@noaa.gov should you

communities were wiped out from the tsunami, and while

need to report

researchers can’t say exactly what’s floating out there, they can

anything. In the

certainly predict that fishing nets, fishing line, floats, docks, and

case of potentially

vessels will be a big expectation. There is a real concern from

hazardous material

the ICC and from NOAA that marine life will suffer from this, and

sightings, derelict

Carey Morishige says entanglement is indeed one of the worst

vessels, or other

case scenarios for Hawaii’s habitats. Protected species such as

large debris, NOAA

humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals, and green sea turtles are

encourages you

all potentially threatened.

to call 911, the Environmental

At this point, research is being conducted to gather more accurate

Health

information on the tsunami debris and its current effects on our

Administration’s

surrounding ocean. August 27th brought hopeful news when

Emergency

NOAA’s team of researchers returned from their 24-day expedition

Response Office at

around the Hawaiian Islands. Scott Godwin, a marine invertebrate

(808) 586-4249, or

zoologist and the expedition’s chief scientist says that sharks are still present in the area, meaning that

the National Response Center at 1 (800) 424-8802.

marine life is still abundant enough to sustain the larger ocean predators. The coral reefs appear to be safe from tsunami debris, still alive and thriving and with no signs of coral bleaching or disease outbreak

As winter approaches and marine debris washes

among the marine life.

onto our shores, keep in mind that small contributions help to make a larger impact. The

Morishige, Woolaway, and many others involved in the international effort for ocean health are trying

Japanese tsunami debris has become our problem

to alert the public to be aware of the current situation. Abnormal sightings, larger quantities of specific

as an ocean community, so remember what you

debris, and non-weathered debris could all be indicators of tsunami flotsam reaching our shores. But a

love most about your local beach and donate back

good point that Woolaway brought up is that we probably won’t see things wash up outside of the areas

to it.

we typically see marine debris collect. “We’re looking at areas where we normally see debris, and the coastlines will probably have a greater opportunity to catch this stuff,” says Woolaway.


74 Heff


Surfboard Buyer’s Guide Fall / Winter 2012

By Ross Williams The Rhythm of surfboard design If you look at our past, the trends and style of music shape the way we design our lives. From our homes we live in, the cars we drive and the clothes we wear all seem to pull inspiration from one key source. Music. It has to start somewhere right? If we collectively enjoy a certain band, we then naturally take in their style. The way they dress, talk, and portray themselves have an infinite effect on people, which then, has a trickle effect that flows into what WE do and what WE ultimately build. Are you still with me? Example: 70’s- music was all about the Funk. People wanted to shake their booties. Disco was king. Surfboard design followed suit with the revolution of the twin fin and other much more maneuverable boards. People just wanted to dance, man! The 80’s were all about electronic rock. The Flock of Seagulls, Depeche Mode, David Bowie were all trail blazers that lead the “flock” towards Neon colors and whacky hair. As a result, the uninhibited shapers of the 80’s spit out some chunky, flat rocker gems that influence shapes to this day. Which brings us to the present. Over the past decade or so some people think our surfboard designs have become stagnant. I’d argue just the opposite. Yes, current design change is subtle but that’s due to years of stumbling and discovering what works until finally aging to perfection. We are combining all the qualities from board design in the last 40 years and injecting them into our hi tech materials to produce the modern day rocket. Just like Gotye, Lupe Fiasco, Little Dragon and so many other artists of present day, our inspiration comes from many genres and different era’s to hopefully project a best of the best collaboration.


Surfboards

Kelly Slater pushing the boundries of board design at Off the Wall. Photo: Heff

It’s well known that Kelly Slater has lead us to the future with his relentless pursuit to find that magic design. How lucky and fortunate are we to have the best surfer ever to live, be interested and actually progressive with his equipment? Many professionals have a relationship with their shapers but for the most part they just tell them if the board is working good or not and the shaper takes it from there. Kelly has gotten his hands dirty in his quest to find what works for him. He not only gets in the shaping bay with Al Merrick, but he shapes boards himself. Kelly took a lot of criticism for his attack on the standard of length in surfboards. Yes, he did go a little too short for a while but it enabled him to discover the balance between too much and too little. Credit is also due to tow surfing and the equipment used in that realm. No one would have ever thought to use a 5’9” in 20 foot surf but that was

Kelly has gotten his hands dirty in his quest to find what works for him. He not only gets in the shaping bay with Al Merrick, but he shapes boards himself.

discovered, after years of trial and error, to be exactly what helps you not only ride but perform on big waves. I think Kelly knew he was on to something but the only thing that stood in the way of this revolution was the fact that we need to paddle into waves. All these years we have been using big boards in big waves so that we can simply catch them. If we are talking about building a board for an outer reef then yes, the bigger the better. But for places like Pipe, Haleiwa and even Sunset it seems like less is more. As long as you can get away with catching waves on a board that’s seemingly way too short for paddling you will be rewarded once on the wave with that much more maneuverability. The trick is to push your wide point forward in the board a touch so that the bottom half of your board will perform like a bigger board without all the unnecessary volume sticking to the face of the wave. As for small waves it seems at least for Kelly, that some similar design theories work. Its much more subtle due to the fact that small wave boards are already pretty small. But the same principal works, less volume where you don’t need it and more where you do. Thankfully pros have an unregulated budget with their board sponsors, and continue to perfect the designs that we can all enjoy. So don’t’ get mad when you see Parko show up this winter with 40 boards, or Jordy or Mick, hell all of them! Just thank them and order your one and only board for the winter! Just make sure you take the

best designs from all eras. It’s that beautiful curve from the 70’s, the low rocker from the 80’s and the attack on volume in the 90’s that brought us to the magic designs of the future. Whether you are ordering a board for Pipe or Ehukai keep this in mind, what kinds of music do YOU like? But before you go out there and order some crazy board make sure you have a nice discussion with your shaper to make sure you get what works for you. Because you don’t want to be THAT guy on the dance floor, making an ass of yourself!


Bret Boards

Bret Boards

Bret Boards

Aku Bird

Matador

Savage

Shaped by Bret Marumoto

Shaped by Bret Marumoto

Dimensions: 5’8 x 19 1/2” x 2 5/16”

Dimensions: 9’6” for Kala Alexander. Width: 21 1/8” Thickness: 3 5/8”

Shaped by Bret Marumoto Air Brush: Bret Marumoto Dimensions: Size: 5’11 Width: 18 1/4 Thickness: 2 3/16” Fin system: FCS “five fin option” Glassing APP: Top 4+2/3 4 Bottom 4 S-Glass(U.V. ultraviolet glassing system)

Fin system: FUTURES “tri-fin”

Fin System: FUTURES “five fin option”

Glassing App: Top 4+4 Glassing App: Top 6+6 Bottom 4 S-GLASS (U.V. ultra violet glassing system) The AKU BIRD was created with small to medium surf in mind. Shorter, wider with low rocker entry gives you glide through the flat spots with drive and speed. Team riders: Coco Ho. Mason Ho, Keala Naihe, Kalani Chapman, Tanner Hendrickson, Flynn Novak, Kala Alexander, Koa Rothman www.bretboards.com bretsurfboards@gmail.com

Bottom 4+6 (U.V. ultra-violet glassing system) The MATADOR has been developed by collective feedback from world-class big wave riders who have a passion for chasing that ultimate session here in the Hawaiian Islands or around the globe. Team riders: Coco Ho, Mason Ho, Keala Naihe, Kalani Chapman, Tanner Hendrickson, Flynn Novak, Kala Alexander, Koa Rothman www.bretboards.com bretsurfboards@gmail.com

Camp Nine

Catch Surf

Derived from the Regulator series this model has a moderate nose rocker entry to single concave bottom to double concave between the fins. The tail rocker has been increased for in the pocket turning accuracy. The SAVAGE has become a favorite among our riders. Team riders: Coco Ho. Mason Ho, Keala Naihe, Kalani Chapman, Tanner Hendrickson, Flynn Novak, Kala Alexander, Koa Rothman www.bretboards.com bretsurfboards@gmail.com

Catch Surf

Hot Pocket

Beater Original 54

The ONE

Shaped by Camp Nine Board Line Hawaii. Dimensions: 5’9” x 21 1/8” x 2 1/2 FCS Fin. Quad. Design stems from a retro fish idea with effective modern changes. The rocker is kept low, similar to its retro fish ancestor, which will allows the board to paddle in with ease and be faster once you’re up. The outline has less curve in the middle, thus resembling the midsection of a modern short board.

Shaped by Catch Surf

Shaped by Tom Morey

Dimensions: 48” or 54”

Dimensions: 4’6” x 20” x 2 3/8”

The original fully customizable shred stick! Surf it with or without fins, skim or body board it, do whatever the heck you want. Price- $149 www.catchsurf.com (949) 218.0428

The Super ONE is a pocket-size shredder based on The ONE with the addition of FCS® fins! The Super ONE is loose, but still offers plenty of drive. Available in 4 new color-ways. Price- $295

The deck is flat like an older fish, but instead of having chunky rails, the rails are beveled into a smaller performance oriented square rail. Good in 1-3 ft. softer, more playful waves. Checkout available surfboards at Surf Garage Honolulu and Diamond Head Surfboards. (803) 226.7944 www.campnine.com info@campnine.com

www.catchsurf.com (949) 218.0428


Surfboards

Catch Surf

Heff Heff

Heff

Bret Boards - Isaiah Moniz. Photo: Heff


Catch Surf

Catch Surf

Channel Islands Surfboards

Super ONE

Division 71 Standard

DFR

Dimensions: 4’6” x 20” x 2 3/8” Shaper: Tom Morey The Super ONE is a pocket-size shredder based on The ONE with the addition of FCS® fins! The Super ONE is loose, but still offers plenty of drive. Available in 4 new color-ways. Price- $295 www.catchsurf.com (949) 218.0428

Shaped by Division 71 Dimensions: Available in 39”, 41”, 41.5”, 42” & 44” The Standard is a magic carpet ride. CNC shaped with ARPRO™ beaded poly-pro core (BPP), double ProjectionFlex (PFS) stringers, Surlyn® bottom, Cross-link bumpers and inner rails, 8lb SealedAir® PE deck and outer rails, nose grips, graduated channels and crescent tail. This board represents the pinnacle of our stock line-up and is ideal for warm-water locales. Price- $199 (30% off and FREE shipping to Hawaii) www.catchsurf.com (949) 218.0428

Dimensions: 6’0” x 19” x 2 3/8” No, not the “Dane Fred Rubble” the DFR is a new design from Dane freaking Reynolds. An ultra-modern short board, the plan-shape allows for a short rail line while maintaining drive. A full outline provides enough volume to ride the DFR about the same length as your height. This short board is not only ready for big airs but also allows for the heaviest carves you can lay down. Dane rides his DFR his own height. 6’0” x 19” x 2 3/8” EXPERIENCE: Intermediate to Expert IDEAL WAVE SIZE: Excels from knee high to overhead surf. info@cisurfboards.com www.cisurfboards.com

Channel Islands Surfboards

Channel Islands Surfboards

Demarco Surfboards

MotorBoat Too…

Weirdo Ripper

Mini Log

The “Too” is an all-around performance minded surf craft, well suited for both pocket surfing and at sections. Rob super-charged the original Motorboat, added tail rocker, deck rocker, and foiled out the thickness. The bottom is single to double to vee out the back providing drive and forgiveness. The end result is an updated version that surprised Rob in its performance in all conditions, not a novelty but a user-friendly board for all skill levels.

The Weirdo Ripper is a user friendly design, a full volume, wide point forward, v bottom, square-winged swallow that works well as a thruster or quad.

Shaped by Joe DeMarco

EXPERIENCE novice to advanced surfers IDEAL WAVE SIZE Knee to slightly overhead info@cisurfboards.com www.cisurfboards.com

Ideal for that small to medium all-around board in your quiver is the Yadin Nicol-created “Weirdo Ripper.” Development began with Yadin in a CI shaping bay getting weird on Al’s Pod design. The Weirdo Ripper spent over a year behind the scenes in development with Kelly, Dane, Nathaniel and Yadin, until ultimately being unveiled at the 2012 US Open by Dane Reynolds, who displayed the board’s advantages in the tricky Huntington conditions. EXPERIENCE Intermediate to Expert IDEAL WAVE SIZE Waist High to Well Overhead info@cisurfboards.com www.cisurfboards.com

Dimensions: 6’2” x 20 1/4” x 2 1/2” The Mini Log model is designed to be ridden in small to medium waves and will get you flying down the line in style. This board features longboard inspired outlines and curves, but in a short high performance package. From 360 off the lips to hanging five in the barrel, this model does it all. Available with international artist Christie Shinn’s Mini Log graphics and airbrush. Team riders: Love Hodel, Willy Asprey Price- $550 (808) 220.6822 joe@demarcosurf.com (619) 694.7805 ashley@demarcosurf.com www.demarcosurf.com


Surfboards

Heff

Latronic

Demarco - Willy Asprey

Hi-Tech - Ola Eleogram - Photo: Heff

Firewire - Gavin Gillette. Photo: Latronic


Demarco Surfboards

Demarco Surfboards

Firewire Surfboards

Electric Ham

White Fire

Artillery

Shaped by Joe DeMarco

Shaped by Joe DeMarco

Shaped by Nev Hyman

Dimensions: 5’4 x 17 1/2” x 2”

Dimensions: 5’8 x 19 1/4” x 2 7/16”

Dimensions: 6’7” x 18 7/16” x 2 9/16”

Named by a grom, for groms. We’ve taken all the elements of our best shortboards and shrunk them down into miniature rip sticks. Perfect for the up and coming shredder looking to take it to the next level. At Demarco surfboards, we are breeding future world champs one Electric Ham at a time.

We have been working on designs with team rider Love Hodel that will excel in weak conditions but will still perform when the waves turn on. The result? The White Fire model. By making the board shorter and wider and moving the wide point forward, we were able to create a board that could fit into tighter pockets and turn harder and faster. From mini Malibu to bowling V Land, this model will handle all the different conditions your local spot with throw at you.

Artillery Series represents a combination of everything we’ve learned, building step ups and guns for our top team riders such as Tahitian charger Michel Bourez, North Shore big wave surfer Gavin Gillette, and of course Timmy Reyes, who will paddle out in anything. The foils and bottom contours are refined and the outlines feature smooth curves from nose to tail. And by combining these high performance shapes with Firewire’ s World Tour proven Future Shapes Technology (FST) and Springer deck inserts, the Artillery is made for charging!

Team riders: Love Hodel, Willy Asprey Price- $550 (808) 220.6822 joe@demarcosurf.com (619) 694.7805 ashley@demarcosurf.com www.demarcosurf.com

Team riders: Love Hodel, Willy Asprey Price- $550 (808) 220.6822 joe@demarcosurf.com (619) 694.7805 ashley@demarcosurf.com www.demarcosurf.com

chuy.reyna@ firewiresurfboards.com www.firewiresurfboards.com

Diamond Head Surfboards

Grain Surfboards

Hi-Tech

Wave Catcher

Radicle Mini Gun

Milkman

Shaped by Eddie Picollo

Shaped by Brad Anderson

Shaped by Matt Kinoshita

Dimensions: 5’9 x 20”

Dimensions: 6’9” x 18 1/4” x 2 1/2”

Dimensions: 6’1 x 18.375” x 2.25”

This board has a super-fine entry with loads of nose rocker. A flat vee in the tail gives excellent high-speed response and a thruster setup ensures positive turns and drive to round it all out. Designed with the input of Pro free-surfer Dave Rastovich, the first version was built with him on the North Shore.

This is the gold standard of Maui performance shortboards and the board that help launch the careers of Ian Walsh, Dusty Payne, Granger Larsen, Kai Barger, Clay Marzo, Ola Eleogram, and Hank Gaskell.

Manufactured by Eddie. Produced in Wahiawa at Fine Line Glass Shop Surfs as a rocket, paddles like a longboard. 5-Fins systems allows you to use a 4 fin, 3 fin thruster, or keel fin (combined with quad) that Slater used to win his 11th title in 2011 New York. diamondheadsurfboards. com 525 Kapahulu Ave. Honolulu, HI 96816 (808) 691.9599

www.grainsurfboards.com (207) 457.5313

Comes in various lengths, widths, scaled accordingly. Price- $450-$495.00 Available at Hi-Tech Surf Sports 425 Koloa St. Kahului, HI 96732 (808) 877.2111 www.surfmaui.com www.facebook.com/ HiTechMaui


Surfboards

Local Motion - Keanu Asing, Photo: Heff

Heff

Taylor

JS Industries - Bruce Irons, Photo: Baesemann

Modex- Ha`A Aikau, Photo: Heff


Infinity Surfboards

JS Industries

JS Industries

Tombstone

Monsta X

Revolution

Shaped by the Boehne Bros

Shaped by JS

Shaped by JS

Dimensions: 5’11 x 19 x 2 3/8

Dimensions: 5’8 x 19 3/8” x 2 3/8”

Jack Freestone and JS have spent a lot of time together over the past months creating the new “MONSTA- X” model. The standard MONSTA model has become one of JS best selling models of all time. JS has made the rocker flatter, deepened concave and a flatter exit rocker. The extra thickness and width creates more outline curve and overall volume. All of these adjustments create a faster and more forgiving ride in mushy unpredictable beach breaks and enables you to choose 1 weapon for varying conditions. Ride MONSTA- X 2 inches shorter than your normal board.

Revolution is the brother of JS best seller “Blak Box.” Flat rocker with double concave under the chest continuing on with another double concave between the fins. More flex than ever before due to the single layer glass on deck and bottom. Revolution is the latest and most technically designed model that JS has EVER released.

Dimensions: 5’4” x 21 1/2” x 2 3/4” This is our version of the “mini-simmons” fast and fun twin fin action. See more online www.infinitysurf.com (949) 661-6699

www.jsindustries.com

www.jsindustries.com

JS Industries

Local Motion

Local Motion

Bullseye

Dung Beetle

Shaped by JS 6’0 x 19 1/2” x 2 1/2” OCCY thought he was back on tour this year and after results in WA and Trestles riding MONSTA he was looking like he might get there too! Taking a little bit from each of these he now has the BULLSEYE. The BULLSEYE has everything you would expect from an Occy favorite, built for those guys looking for a forgiving board that has glide and turns when you need it to.

Shaped by Wade Tokoro

Keanu Asing BF 19 model

www.jsindustries.com

This model is a fun little board for small to medium surf. Fuller nose and tail outline with a flatter deck and fuller rail makes this model user friendly. Lower overall rocker allows this board to paddle well and makes surfing fun. (808) 254.7873 www.localmotionhawaii.com

Shaped by Wade Tokoro The Keanu Asing model was designed by combining two of his favorite designs. The rocker, concave and foil are based off his small wave board. The outline is based off his all around board. The merging of the two designs created a great all around to small wave surfboard. This is his go to board in most surf conditions and competition.

(808) 254.7873 www.localmotionhawaii. com


Surfboards

Infinity - Kaoli Kahokuloa. Photo: Jared Sislin

Lyle Carlson Surfboards - Jensen Hassett, Photo: Servais

Heff

Mendonca - Photo: Lemos Images

Kazuma Surfboards - Imai Devault, Photo: Heff


Lyle Carlson Surfboards

Mark Angell Surfboards

Kazuma Surfboards

Jensen Hassett Model Big Wave Gun

The Fix Model

Kazuma Jaws Paddleboard

Shaped by Lyle Carlson Surfboards

Dimensions: 6’2 x 20’1/4 x 2’1/2

(415) 596-6464 facebook.com/ Lylecarlsonboards lylecarlsonsurfs.blogspot. com

Shaped by Mark Angell

Specs: 5 Fin (Quad Thruster) Convertible The Fix is a versatile board; goes good down the line and rips in the mush. Lower entry rocker and good volume makes it easy to catch everything. The outline curve and single to double concave makes it fast and carves unreal. Mark Angell Surfboards; over 40 years of Shaping History, Design and Innovation.

Dimensions: 10’6” x 21.375” x 3.75” No one knows Jaws better than Kazuma. Available at Hi-Tech Surf Sports 425 Koloa St. Kahului, HI 96732 (808) 877.2111 info@kazumasurf.com

Price-$465

(808) 651.1234 markangellsurfboards@gmail. com www.markangellsurfboards.com

Mendonca Surfboards

Modex Designs

Modex Designs

AK47

Fuzion

Galatik

Shaped by Paulo Mendonca

Shaped by Tom “Nezzy” for Modex

Shaped by Tom “Nezzy” for Modex

All art by Pinky Taylor X Modex

All art by Pinky Taylor X Modex Collaboration

Dimensions: 5’10 x 18’1/2 x 2’5/16

Dimensions: 6’2 x 18’1/2 x 2’3/8

Dimensions: 9’0” x 21” x 3 1/2” This board was designed with feedback from Mavericks local Alex Martins to reduce length and maximize volume under the ramp at Mav’s. The result is a board that handles the steep trough and sits comfortable through the bowl. Model available in thruster, quad or five box optional. Team riders : Alex Martins, Danilo Couto, Lapo Coutinho, and Hank Gaskell Starting price- $750 mendoncasurfboard.com (808) 450.7621 mendoncasurfboards@live.com

The FUZION model is a “fuzion” of your favorite good wave board combined with your favorite small wave board to make the ultimate fuzed all round board for all conditions. www.modexdesigns.com modexhawaii@gmail.com inquiry@modexdesigns. com (808) 421.7517 MODEX Hawaii Retail Shop 909 Kapahulu avenue # A, Honolulu Hawaii USA http://www.facebook.com/ modexhawaii

The GALATIK model is made with good waves in mind or small hollow waves with push and power. This model is for demolishing good waves with big turns! www.modexdesigns.com modexhawaii@gmail.com inquiry@modexdesigns.com (808) 421.7517 MODEX Hawaii Retail Shop 909 Kapahulu avenue # A, Honolulu Hawaii USA http://www.facebook.com/ modexhawaii


Surfboards

Heff

Heff

Raynor - Daniel Jones

Pyzel - John John Florence. Photo: Latronic


Modex Designs

Monstah! Surboards

Pyzel

Matrix

12 Pak

Pinky

Shaped by Tom “Nezzy” for Modex

Dimensions: 5’8” x 19 3/4 x 2 7/16

Shaped by Jon Pyzel

All art by Pinky Taylor X Modex Collaboration

Outline: Groveler, full volume. Rocker: Low nose and low entry, low kick in the tail. Bottom: Flat to light spiral vee. Tail: Diamond Fin Setup: Tri Surf Size Range (Hawaiian): 1 to 5 ft. Size Recommendations: 5’0” to 6’4” order 4” to 6” shorter, 1” wider and 1/8” to ¼” thicker than your short board dims.

Dimensions: 5’8 x 19’1/2 x 2’3/8 The MATRIX model is our go to small wave board or summer model! But who cares, if there’s some swell and you want to get creative, it might just surprise you… www.modexdesigns.com modexhawaii@gmail.com inquiry@modexdesigns. com (808) 421.7517 MODEX Hawaii Retail Shop 909 Kapahulu avenue # A, Honolulu Hawaii USA http://www.facebook.com/ modexhawaii

A good all-round groveler for most waves and conditions, quick and drivey, still surfs vertical like your shorty. Can be ordered with any tail shape/variation and fin set up ie. Quad or Five fin. www.monstahglasshawaii.com info@monstahglasshawaii.com makani808@gmail.com

Dimensions: 5’11 x 18 1/2” x 2 1/4” v=25.4 This is the board that John John won his first CT event on in Rio! It has more tail rocker than any of our other models to keep it loose, but a wider nose helps to keep the outline straighter to add drive and easy acceleration. This board is amazingly fast from the take-off, and will get you into the air easily. Ride this the same length and volume as your regular short board. Download our new Pyzel Surfboards iPhone app and receive $10 off your first order using the app! info@pyzelsurfboards (808) 223.3305

Raynor Surfboards

Raynor Surfboards

Raynor Surfboards

DDR

Hipster

Alpha

A customer favorite since its inception to the line in 2010, the DDR is a quick, small wave performer for any surfer. While following the “wider, fuller, and flatter” philosophy, we’ve incorporated more performance characteristics than your standard fish or groveler. Now available with FUTUREFLEX technology.

The HIPSTER is a fullbodied performance board that works well in wide range conditions, but outshines most boards in its class when the surf is less than ideal. From the contest kids, to the middle-aged rail surfer, the HIPSTER will be a great addition to anyone’s quiver. Now available with FUTUREFLEX technology.

The ALPHA is a high performance board for high performance waves. Designed to be surfed in (and above) the pocket, the ALPHA excels in punchy surf, and likes to be surfed aggressively, and vertically. Now available with FUTUREFLEX technology.

www.raynorsurf.com info@raynorsurf.com instagram: raynorsur

www.raynorsurf.com info@raynorsurf.com instagram: raynorsurf (808) 253.9020

www.raynorsurf.com info@raynorsurf.com instagram: raynorsurf (808) 253.9020


Surfboards

Rock

Town & Country - Makua Rothman. Photo: Heff

Freedom Riding - Buttons. Photo: Nate

DaKine - Shane Dorian. Photo: Baesemann


Sadoy

Scovel Surfboards

Setsu

V3

The Knock Out

Shaped by Nelson Sadoy

Shaped by Will Scovel

RP1 Randall Paulson Model

Dimensions: 6’0 x 18” x 2 1/8”

Art by Dustin Barca

A good board to have on the north shore, all around dependable. This is a forgiving board, rides really free if it’s working well. Made after a former board, this is a duplicate of a V-land type model that Sadoy had for five years. Great for anything in 2 feet to 6 feet. All handmade. www.sadoy.com sadoyn001@hawaii.rr.com

Dimensions: 6’1 x 18 1/2” x 2 1/4” Excellent all around short board built to get up and go. Designed to generate speed and maneuverability that will take your surfing to the next level. Thruster, quad, or optional fin system. Can be custom ordered with channel bottom!!! Made for novice-professional sizes range up to 7’0.

Shaped by Setsu Dimensions: 5’11” x 18 ¼” x 2 1/8” All around board for mushy and barreling conditions. If it feels like you’re going 300 mph… then it’s the RP1! All inquiries please contactRandall Paulson randallpaulson@gmail.com

Available at Tamba Surf Company and Poipu Surf Company. Custom orders welcome. scovelsurfboards.com Facebook: Scovel Surfboards Kauai (808) 652.7929 willscovel@yahoo.com

Surf Garage

Surf Garage

Surf Garage

Lopez Lightning Bolt

Mini-Simmons

Dimensions: 6’10x18-3/4x2-5/8

Dimensions: 5’1x22x2-1/2

Christenson Bonneville

So fresh. So clean. Come see more at the Surf Garage.

Pineapple Express said it best “Dopest Dope I’ve ever smoked. Dopest dope!” Get hooked up at the Surf Garage.

2716 South King Street Honolulu, HI 96826 (808) 951.1173 www.surfgarage.com info@surfgarage.com

2716 South King Street Honolulu, HI 96826 (808) 951.1173 www.surfgarage.com info@surfgarage.com

Dimensions: 9’5x221/2x2-7/8 They say a picture is worth a 1000 words, and that’s very true when you see a beauty like this... But this board only needs 5 words: Best Long I’ve ever ridden! Come see more at the Surf Garage 2716 South King Street Honolulu, HI 96826 (808) 951.1173 www.surfgarage.com info@surfgarage.com


Surfboards

Baesemann

Kirstin/ ASP

Setsu -Randall Paulson. Photo: Heff

Tokoro Surfboards -Sunny Garcia. Photo: Baesemann

Wavejet - Garrett McNamara. Photo: Latronic


Surf Design Hawaii Standard Shorty Model

T & C Hawaii MS1

Shaped by Surf Design Hawaii

Shaped by Glenn Pang

Dimensions: 6’0” x 18 1/2” x 2 1/4”

Dimensions: 6’0” x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8 Volume area: 26.3

Squash tail Our standard issue modern high performance short board. Price- starting at $350 (808) 936.1316 surfdesignhawaii@gmail. com

Design: Single to double concave with less tail rocker and more nose rocker. Expectation: Good all around board for waist high to over-head waves. (808) 483.8383 www.tcsurf.com enquiries@tcsurf.com

Tokoro Surfboards M1 Board Model Shaped by Wade Tokoro Dimensions: 5’10” x 19” x 2 3/8” There has been a big push to ride shorter boards in better surf, this winter we are introducing the “M1” a big board design in a short board. The M1 has our standard gun bottom but has a lower entry and tail rocker. The wide point has been pushed up and there is a little more volume up from center as well. We recommend going 6” shorter and a 1/2” wider than your normal gun. Check out the Tokoro Boardroom at the Quiksilver Store in the Ward Warehouse for a complete selection of new models and demo boards to test ride. www.tokorosurfboards.com

Wave Jet Performance Shortboard Shaper/Manufacturer/ Artist: a world-renowned team of shapers with input from Cory Lopez. Dimensions: 6’6” x 20 1/2” x 3 1/8” The shortest board in our range, this is the highest performance WaveJet model. Combined with WaveJet propulsion technology, this board will enable surfers to shred waves ranging from the tiniest dribble to pumping barrels. This board can be ridden as a quad or thruster, making it the most versatile board in your quiver. Team riders: Cory Lopez and Garrett McNamara Price- $4395.00 To order, check out our store info@wavejet.com wavejet.com


Heff

Accessories

Heff

FCS - Kiron Jabour. Photo: Heff

“I have not snapped a KS 1.1 yet and that includes out at Jaws 25 feet with my board tomb stoning.” ­Kelly Slater

Da Kine

FCS

Freedom Riding

Hawaiian Flag

Diamond groove traction. Beveled edge. Medium center arch. 25 mm tail kick. Strongest 3M adhesive.Three piece pad.

The Dakine Taj Pro Traction Pad The Dakine Taj Pro Traction Pad Size: 11 in. x 12.25 in. A three piece pad with a 10mm center arch and a 25mm routered tail kick.

Team riders: Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Kalani Chapman and more.

MF-1

The size of the FCS MF-1 makes this fin ideal for heavy or powerful surfers. The long leading edge plus the high degree of sweep angle provides control when driving off the bottom or carving through turns on the open face.

Price- $30 1 (888)720.SURF (7873) admin@freedomhi.com www.freedomriding.com

www.surffcs.com www.dakine.com

Da Kine

Freedom Riding

Freedom Eagle

Diamond groove traction. Beveled edge. Medium center arch. 25 mm tail kick. Strongest 3M adhesive.Three piece pad.

The Dakine Parko Pro Traction Pad The Dakine Parko Pro Traction Pad Size: 10.75 in. x 12.5 in. A three piece pad with a 10mm center arch and a 25mm routered tail kick. www.dakine.com

Team riders: Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Kalani Chapman and more. Price- $30 1 (888)720.SURF (7873) admin@freedomhi.com www.freedomriding.com

Freedom Riding Leashes

Comfort and Security by Twin Stainless Steel swivels. Flexible Fusion Molded Fittings. Deluxe Neoprene Cuff. Highest Quality Urethane Cord. Triple Wrap RailSaver. Quick Release Pull Tab. Sizes: 5.5 COMP, 6.0 COMP, 6.0 REGULAR, 7.0 REGULAR, 8.0 REGULAR, 9.0 REGULAR 1(888)720.SURF (7873) admin@freedomhi.com www.freedomriding.com


Futures Fins

JS Industries

Online Store

Jordy Signature Model Our latest release in the Large fin category, the Jordy Signature Model features a wider base and thinner tip, giving the template laid back lines, suiting Jordy’s effortless approach to a tee. www.futuresfins.com

P3 KR has produced a fin with a dense layer of carbon in the base and independent carbon strips leading up into the tip of the fin. The dense carbon matt offers maximum stiffness in the base of the fin. Available in SMALL/MEDIUM, MEDIUM/LARGE and LARGE www.jsindustries.com

JS Industries 6 Shaper: You are the shaper!!! Specs: Fiberglass Hawaii carries the largest selection US Blanks, from shortboards to longboards we’ve got it all. Shaping tool kits are available and blanks start at $55! Contact: We have 5 locations between California and Hawaii and we ship World Wide! Email us at sales@Þberglasshawaii.com or shop online at (800) 566-2653

www.Fiberglasshawaii.com

Komunity Project

AI-2.1

JS Industries

JP-5

AI-2.1 is the larger of the two templates. It is recommended for surfers between 65-85 kg or 145-185 lbs as the everyday fin for most conditions. This large weave, 12K carbon works especially well with this new template to provide the perfect balance of flex, drive and release.

Parko is one of the world most fluent and effortless surfers, and his fin needs to follow those characteristics. The basis of this template has been refined by Joel and shaper over the years and has now been carefully integrated into both fin systems. Recommended for surfers between 65-85kg / 145-185lbs.

www.jsindustries.com

www.jsindustries.com

Komunity Project

Komunity Project KS 1.1 One Piece Molded Leash - 3 Year Warranty - World¹s Best Premium Urethane - Stainless Free Spin Swivels - Detachable Railsaver - Plug Thread Tool

Clay Marzo Signature Pad

- 3 Piece Elevated Traction Grip - 14² / 6MM Arch / 20MM Kick - KS 11X Boost Tail Kick - Hi Density Lightech EVA Foam - Super Tack 3M Adhesive

Kelly¹s Signature “BULLSEYE” Model - One Piece Pad - 14² Flat Arch / 20MM Kick - 11x Boost Tail Kick - Hi Density Lightech EVA Foam

“Komunity Project is my vision of what surf accessory products should be. Using the World¹s best equipment is everything” Kelly Slater, 2012

www.komunityproject.com

www.komunityproject.com

www.komunityproject.com

Stay Covered Competition Leash

Stay Covered

Stay Covered designed the Competition leash for the experienced surfer in average conditions. All Stay Covered Leashes are manufactured in the United States. - Double 8mm Swivel - 1.5” Cuff - .220” Cord - 1” Removable Railsaver Colors: Black, Lime Green, Foilage Green Camo, Rasta, Cyan Blue, Red. www.staycovered.com

Stay Covered Wax Standard wax materials blended with organic grade components. www.staycovered.com

Waxy Wax Local and extremely passionate Surfer Gary McFadden had a mission to create the perfect surf wax. A high performance surf wax with well formed bumps, super stickiness, and awesome texture and consistency. www.waxywax.com Wax is 100% non toxic and does not stain. http://www.waxywax.com


She Rips Rowland / ASP

Leila Hurst by Jericho Rell

Every generation of surfer breathes a new breath of life into the waters of style and grace in

Have you ever felt like you have missed out on

the sport of surfing. Offering a fresh and young perspective into the culture. Seventeen-year-old

“normal life” things like dating and school? Or do you

Leila Hurst is one of the girls paving the way toward surfing with her upbeat and compassionate

feel you have you maintained a sense of both through

outlook on the world. She has earned numerous titles; she won the world junior title for women,

out?

competed in a few six stars and made the semis in France as well as competing in the Van¹s

I don’t feel like I have missed out on a thing. I graduated

Triple Crown several times. She has a grounded family core standing right behind her supporting

high school, dated boys, and went to school dances.

her. She has a deep love and respect for the ocean and is coming right along as one of the most promised and talented young women in surfing. Here is a little of what she had to tell us.

From what I have read it seems your parents have always been incredibly close to you and very

You have been surfing since a very early age. Was that something that your family

supportive. Can you tell us about that dynamic?

encouraged or did you just fall in love right away?

My family is my life. I am extremely close to both my

Growing up on Kauai surrounded by ocean and a dad that loved to surf it just came natural. I

mom and dad. I grew up surfing with my dad every day,

was raised spending every day in the ocean; I was in love since day one.

so that has formed a special bond between us. They are just the best.

Did it ever occur to you how blessed you were to be born and raised on Kauai, or did it just seem normal because it was all you knew?

I read your sister Sophia who has Spina Bifida (Spina

I think, as I got older I started to appreciate Kauai more, especially once I started traveling and

Bifida is a disabling birth defect that affects the spine)

realized home was the prettiest place of all.

would you say she is your biggest inspiration in your life?

You were sponsored at nine by Billabong? Can you talk about how has the transition been

My sister Sophia is amazing. I feel like she keeps me on

to Vans and what it has been being part of the Vans Family?

my toes without saying a word. She inspires me to work

I was extremely lucky to be sponsored at the age of nine. Billabong was a ton of fun because

harder. When I start complaining about anything, I think of

we would have a ton of girl¹s team trips and things where I got to meet really cool girls from

her and how happy and confident she is and I immediately

around the world. At the age of 15, I was picked up by Vans. It was the best decision I ever

change my attitude.

made. Can you talk about your experience with doing Life What has it been like being on the road and traveling from such a young age?

98

Rolls On when you got to take her surfing?


Steve Sherman

She Rips

Best experience by far. That was such a special feeling being in the ocean with Sophia. It was magical and extremely emotional for me. Can you tell us how many Triple Crowns you have been in, and what

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your experience has been like participating in them? I have been in a few Triple Crown events. I got the wildcard into the Sunset event a few times and it was crazy! Sunset freaks me out but it was a ton of fun being out there with 3 other girls. As far as competition wise do you have anything you are aiming to compete in for the future? I would like to hopefully qualify for the WCT sometime in the next 2 years. But I am in no rush. I am enjoying traveling and surfing different waves and bettering my surfing right now So the surfing culture has come a long way as far as the acceptance of women in the sport. Have you faced any discrimination as a young

KENEKE’S

woman in surfing? Not at all! It’s great; boys love giving me waves when I am in a bikini, in a wet suit.... Not so much! ha ha Have you noticed any stereotypes in the surf world that have gone by the way side towards women? It seems that often the press will put a woman surfer in a “box” so to speak. Like “sexy” surfer or “hardcore chic” Do you find that this is true at all? I feel you just have to be different and do what makes you happy and people will appreciate you a lot more.

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(808) 237-1010 WWW.KENEKES.NET


Mon-Sat. 9:30 am - 8:00 pm Sunday 9:30 am - 7:00 pm 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy G-100 Haleiwa, HI 96712 (808) 637-5026 www.northshoreboardridersclub.com


She Rips

Leila Hurst Continued Leila Hurst Continued What women in surfing do you feel have paved the way for the sport? Lisa Anderson has always been an inspiration to me. I love how she holds herself and how beautiful her surfing is. Stephanie Gilmore has raised

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the bar in surfing and inspired me to be more creative with my surfing. Why is Stephanie Gilmore an inspiration for you, what is it about her character? Stephanie is such a classy girl. She has not one bad thing to say about anyone and that alone is inspiring. She’s a happy girl and extremely talented in our sport.

come in and dine with this coupon and receive a free order of spring rolls or thai crispy noodles. ward : 1.808.591.8421 mccully : 1.808.942.8194 mililani : 1.808.623.6228

Do you have any inclination to speak out politically on any issues? I feel very passionately about my sister’s disability. I get easily offensive to what some people say about handicap people. Where has been your favorite place you have traveled, best wave? I love Tavarua, and I love the waves in Mexico. What would advice would you give to a young up and coming girl in the surfing world? I would just say to enjoy every minute of being in the ocean, it¹s a blessing.

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You seem as though you have remained incredibly humble through all your success, how have you handled it at such a young age? I have the most amazing job ever; I would never replace it for the world. It can be high stress at times but other than that it¹s a dreamy job.

Voted best on maui!

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Industry Notes

Alana Blanchard Kauai’s Alana Blanchard has qualified for the 2013 Women’s World Championship Tour. The 22-year-old re-qualified for the elite tour with a semifinal finish at the SATA Airlines Azores Pro. Congratulations Alana!

HIFF Be sure to check out the surf film El Mar, Mi Alma this October 20th at 9:30 pm at the Hawaii International Film Festival. Filmed by Hawaii cinematographer/photographer Dave Homcy on location in Chile, this is an unique surf film featuring Dave Rastovich and a cast of other talented wave riders that focuses on more than just surfing.

HJST Tryouts If you surfed Rockies or V-Land this September, you likely saw some of Hawaii’s top junior surfers shredding for the Hawaii Junior Surf Team annual tryouts. After winning the 2012 ISA Junior Championships, Team Hawaii is looking to repeat their winning ways in 2013. Go Team Hawaii!

Pulled Out Big news from the biggest surf contest in the world, the US Open of Surfing. Main sponsors Hurley and Nike have decided not to renew their sponsorship of the event. Since 2009, Nike and Hurley have transformed the event into a showcase of the world’s best surfers, having attracted almost every surfer from the Top 34 to compete over the past four years. Currently, no company has stepped to sponsor the event.

Schedule Change In a move that is sure to create controversy, ASP Hawaii has pushed back the event schedule in order to accommodate WQS surfers competing in the Canary Islands. While this is good news for international surfers, what this means for Hawaii surfers is that it will be that much harder for local surfers to gain entry into the HIC Sunset Pro.

New Tech GoPro finally has some competition. Polaroid just announced that they will be entering the extreme small HD camera market with not just one camera, but rather three different models. The Polaroid XS7, XS20 and XS100 will retail for $69.99, $99.99 and $199.99 respectively. Since GoPro has Kelly Slater on their team, we’re guessing either Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson or John John Florence is gonna have a new camera sponsor this winter. 104


kaleimaeole handcrafted jewelry

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Kai Ku Hale Green Style Island Living Unique Hawaiian Art, Home Decor & Gifts

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or

North Shore Country Market Sunset Beach Elementary School across the street from Pipeline


Industry Notes

V A N S

P R E S E N T S

In4mation Launches HI Beer

T H E

NORTHSHOREOAHU

HAWAII OCT29-NOV10 2012

The crew over at In4mation have just released their newest product, HI Beer. Made in conjunction with Hawaiian brewmasters Frank Wenzl and Greg Yount, HI Beer is a Golden Lager style beer that is sure to be a new favorite here in the Hawaiian Islands. In4mation has long been a brand that has pushed the boundaries in the actionsports market, so this new foray into oat sodas is sure to be a hit. Look for for HI Beer at select bars on Oahu beginning in mid to late October.

Official Qualifier of The Va n s T r i p l e C r o w n o f S u r f i n g Watch

It

Live

at

w w w . Va n s . c o m / H I C P r o

Official 2012 HIC PRO T-shirts, Trucker Hats and Posters are available at HIC Stores & www.hicsurf.com

Like Party? October 26th @ Surfer The Bar , “Thriller Night”. A Micheal Jackson Tribute & Pre-Halloween Costume Party featuring DJ’s Daniel J & Massfunk : VIdeo DJ Screen.Costume Contest & Prizes, Magician & Photo wall 4 memorable guest photos ! $10 cover w/ costume, $15 w out & $5 w full-body MJ

Hawaiian Island Creations - Pearlridge Center, Downtown

costume ! November 1st @ Surfer The Bar, 420 HUNNY’s Invade North Shore ! featuring

HIC Pro Don’t forget to mark your calendars for October 29th for the HIC Pro at Sunset Beach. The HIC Pro kicks off the winter season and is a contest you don’t want to miss!

Ecoboards? FireWire has developed a new line of sustainable surfboards called the

DJ’s Daniel J & DAX out of L.A, Hosted by : the 420 Hunny’s girl’s, in house Breakdance Crew, Mc Rick Rock, & sexy GO-GO Dancers. $10 cover November 10th @ Haleiwa Joes, Triple Crown of Surfing Reef Hawaiian Pro 30th Anniversary Block Party ! Featuring Hang 11 LIVE on the open tented lawn w full bar, Djs Daniel J & DAX, MC Rocky Cannon, LIve Percussionis “Ryno”, Hula Dance Crew doing Modern & Kahiko dances, GO-GO Dancers, Big Screen Projection playing surf & party Videos. $15 cover

Enviroflex. The Enviroflex meets the benchmark standards of “ECOBOARD Project” which was set forth by Sustainable Surf, an environmental non-profit

November 17th @ Surfer The Bar,Turtle Bay Resort “The Aftermath”

organization. Made with the latest technology in green chemistry and recycled

Featuring Dj Mark Moreno, Daniel J & video DJ Crime out of Las Vegas,

materials, the Enviroflex boards are glassed with Entropy Super Sap epoxy resin

Bikini Show by Chama Swim, Go-Go Dancers. $10 cover

that is composed of 25% biologically derived content that emits 50 times less Volatile Organic Compounds than a traditional polyurethane surfboard.

M

Maika`i

Vans Get-N-Classic Vans Get-N Classic Vol. 2 just premiered in Biarritz, France at the conclusion of

Maka`i in Hawaiian means good. Of

the Vans Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational. Featuring all the Vans team riders,

course it is, because this month,

including Kalani Chapman and the Florence brothers (Nathan, Ivan and John),

Foodland’s Maka`i Rewards coupon

Get-N Classic Vol. 2 is available to watch for free online at vanssurf.com/

is giving away free Surf.

getnclassic.

Surf With A Smile

Dr John

Jones Dentistry

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67292 Goodale Ave. Suite A-3 Waialua, HI. 96791


Shawn Parker

Music

Jon Swift When I think about the relationship between music and surfing a small number of names come to mind. At the top of that list is Jon Swift. I first heard his music on the soundtrack of the iconic surf film Shelter. Having grown up as a member of the Momentum generation, Swift has been at the center of modern surf culture for many years. Jon’s musical experience began as a child, sneaking into a neighbors’ house to play their piano. Coincidently, his relationship with surfing began around the same time. While experimenting further with music he taught himself guitar, harmonica, ukulele, mandolin, percussion, and banjo. Later he achieved a Ph.D. in Astrophysics but always stayed close to the ocean. In addition to his career in Astrophysics, Swift has also managed to find the time to write and record three full length albums, one EP, and appear on the soundtracks of multiple surf films. Swift’s latest offering, Faith In Changes, comes to us after Jon became a husband and father. He travelled down to Australia record the album in Byron Bay with fellow musical cohort Jessie Siebenberg. The recording process was documented as a part of a forthcoming project from Taylor Steele. Swifts’ music has always

celebrated the beauty of our natural surroundings while carrying the specific weight of the human experience. As an album, Faith In Changes has an even more developed, cohesive sound. An incredible group of musicians were involved in the making of Faith In Changes, including Neil Casal, Eric Sullivan, Fernando Apodaca, along with the aforementioned Jesse Siebenberg and was mixed and mastered by Jason Mariani. Highlights include “Falling Or Flying,” “Ramblin’ River Song,” and “The Rhythm We March.” Look for Faith In Changes October 1st on iTunes or at www.jonswiftmusic.com. Jordon Cooper


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Last Look

Billy Kemper about to be enveloped in the bowels of Jaws. Photo: Fred Pompermayer


Reef Mc Intos h

HAWAII LIMITED EDITION


PHOTO

Fanning

Owen

Machado

Dorian

Seth

Mikala

J d

Evan

MOSS


Freesurf Volume 9 Number 10  

Freesurf Magazine October 2012