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FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

BILLY KEMPER

4X BIG WAVE CHAMP A SHOC ATHLETE

F R E E

P A R K I N G

From this bird's-eye view, we see the yin and yang of Pipeline. The crowd, as formidable as any spot around the world. And the wave, a moment of pure beauty.

The challenge is just sneaking on to one.

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C O V E R

S T O R Y

Photo Brian Bielmann

Nowadays, with the advent of digital entertainment and the massive if not alarming amount of time humans spend staring at computer and video display screens, getting a cover shot for a magazine is a rare and special event. This month’s cover athlete Billy Kemper states it clearly.

“Getting a cover shot, you know, it's, it's really rare.

As a professional athlete to see yourself in print it's almost like a miracle! It doesn't happen often and I'm very grateful for the family at Freesurf Magazine for keeping this dream alive. My first cover shot ever was with Freesurf, which is now the only iconic monthly magazine for surfing and you know, I feel really honored. It’s just a blessing a dream come true and brings back my childhood dreams and feelings of wanting to be, you know, like Sunny (Garcia) on the cover, wanting to be like my idols and peers and to be able to open up a magazine and see myself on the cover. The stoke never dies with that one. I'm honored once again to be on the front page. It, it truly means a lot to me and my family.

pinnacle of high performance especially in bigger waves. Hale`iwa is not an XXL wave but as far as big wave progression surfing, when you think of guys on the CT guys on the QS, the, and the level of power surfing and progression surfing, Hale`iwa is kind of the pinnacle for that.

When I think of Hale`iwa I think of performers like Sunny Garcia, Kaipo Jaquias, Andy Irons and Pancho Sullivan- real powerful surfers. I just try to enter my ‘Sunny’ mode every time I surf out there and everything he's ever taught me and showed me with the lineups.

That particular wave I remember very clearly. It was actually on Thanksgiving. I ran away from the family while I had the Turkey on the Trager and was able to get a nice warmup session before the contest started the next day. I remember dropping it on that wave and taking a real drawn-out bottom turn. It was kind of one of those deep west ones behind the bathhouse and I came off the bottom into a real nice opening carve. It was such a beautiful canvas, one of those sections where you can really lean into your rail, kind of like a snowboard turn in powder and just really put it all on the line. It's rare you get sections like that. And when you do it's, there's not a better feeling. A magic carpet ride!

That day I was riding my Town and Country, Glen Pang 6’4’ – S-4 V a model that we've been working on over the last couple of years. Its got a little bit of volume distribution change, a bit more volume up in the front of the board under the chest, which makes it paddle much better and a real pulled in defined tail that kind of creates that shortboard feeling to be able to do those high performance turns when the waves are bigger.

On this cover “Hale`iwa is one of the most iconic waves worldwide, let alone being on the “seven mile miracle” of the north shore O`ahu. It’s at the

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TA B L E

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C O N T E N T S

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Free Parking

44 Aperture

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Cover Story

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Editor's Note

66 Nazare

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Smiles for Miles

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Red Hill

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Hale`iwa Challenger

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Industry Notes

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Locked & Loaded

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Last Look

NSSA Nationals

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F E AT U R E S

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Smiles For Miles

The 2022 WSL Championship Tour Qualifiers

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Locked and Loaded Surfing's Elite Gear Up for the Vans Digital Triple Crown

44 Aperture

This month's greatest hits

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NSSA Nationals

Hugs, hi-5’s and great surfing were seen each day

66 Nazare'

A beautiful sunny day and clean, offshore 40-to-50 foot bombs

the

ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE BOARDSHORT

THE HY PER F R E A K BOA R DS HORT ELI OLSON O’N E I L L I N C. 2022 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M

S H O P T H E H Y P E R F R E A K B O A R D S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N

E D I T O R ' S E D I T O R ' S

N O T E N O T E

Photo: Brent Bielmann

Extended Residency

By Andrew Oliver

Normally this time of year, we are dutifully chronicling the end of the competitive surf season which has just recently crescendoed on the North Shore. For as long as we can remember The Vans Triple Crown straddled the holiday season and was the climactic conclusion to the World Tour.

World Champions were crowned, the following year's rookies were decided, and for all intents and purposes the North Shore season came to an end - as far as international competitive surfing was concerned - right before the New Year’s celebrations began. Just as so many aspects in our lives have changed in the last two years, what we know as the North Shore season has been completely altered.

As of this writing, we’re still freshly digesting the results of the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale’iwa Challenger Event, a consequential end to the 2021 Challenger Series, which as we dive into in this issue, crowned local hero Bettylou Sakura Johnson and decided one of the most exciting crop of rookies in recent memory. But, as the Hale’iwa event marked the close of one season, we’ll quickly be welcoming the next, with the WSL Championship Tour kicking-off its 2022 season with events at Pipeline and Sunset, beginning in late January. In the interim, surf fans will be happily satiated by the daily action of the months long Vans Digital Triple Crown, beginning December 21. And, sprinkled in for good measure are the specialty big wave events: The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, The Quiksilver Jaws Big Wave Challenge, and The Red Bull Magnitude Womens Big Wave Content Contest. Safe to say, the calendar is packed!

We’re accustomed to having the North Shore abuzz with surf action, but to have it stretched out over this expanded period is a new phenomenon.

But, much like a great rock band settling in for an extended residency, new avenues of creativity can be discovered in well-trodden material. A group of surf talent like the one assembled - feeding off the collective energy - will likely pave new paths in both competitive glory and redefine what's possible in the world's most challenging surf. As surf fans, could we ask for much more?

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“SURFING WITH ALOHA SINCE 1977”

Samuel Pupo, Luana Silva, Liam O’Brien, Bettylou Sakura Johnson, Jake Marshall, Kekoa Bacalso with Jackson Baker, Gabriela Bryan, Callum Robson Photos: WSL

N E W S

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E V E N T S

Smiles for Miles

The 2022 WSL Championship Tour Qualifiers With the completion of the 2021 Challenger Series, the qualification picture for the 2022 Championship Tour (CT) has now been finalized. Joining the world's best at the Billabong Pro Pipeline when the CT kicks off this January will be a large crop of fresh faces and young talent. Competitors made their return to one of surfing's proving grounds at Hale`iwa, for the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger - a last chance for critical qualification points towards joining the elite Championship Tour.

Australia’s Liam O’Brien has been knocking on the CT door for a few seasons now, and the Hawai’i leg has been where he’s seen his qualification dreams slip away. Unfettered, O’Brien flipped the script this season and solidified his spot on the Dream Tour with a stellar performance at Hale’iwa. Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

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Luana Silva Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

From this bird's-eye view, we see the yin and yang of Pipeline. The crowd, as formidable as any spot around the world. And the wave, a moment of pure beauty. The challenge is just sneaking on to one.

Luana Silva Photo by Damien Poullenot/WSL

Bettylou Sakura Johnson Photo by Brent

The event marked the first time the women have put a jersey on in Hale`iwa's lineup since 2010, and the locale proved to be a crucial factor in local junior upstarts Bettylou Sakura Johnson and Luana Silva’s ultimate Dream Tour qualification. Both needed solid results to make it on the big stage, with Sakura Johnson taking out the win in storybook fashion, securing not only her spot on the 2002 CT, but also immortalizing herself as a hero to the deep-rooted Hale`iwa surfing community.

Bielmann/WSL

"I'm just really happy to represent Hale`iwa here," said Sakura Johnson after her massive win. "I'm in shock. I'm so excited. I can't wait [for next year]."

For Silva, who was sitting on a major result, a win at the MEO Vissla Pro Ericeira in October, her path to qualification seemed clearly laid out.

But, a loss in her stacked quarterfinals heat at Hale`iwa left Silva having to wait out the results in nail-biting anxiety - she was ultimately given the nod just barely edging out Australian phenom Molly Picklum in the final year-end tabulations.

India Robinson

Gabriela Bryan Photo by Tony Heff/WSL

Photo by Brent Bielmann/WSL

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The Brazilian Storm is still as strong as ever, especially with the rookie reinforcements of Samuel Pupo (top), and Joao Chianca (bottom right). But, it appears that this dominant force is spreading further in the Americas as 2022 will see Peruvian Lucca Mesinas (bottom left), and Costa Rican Carlos Munoz joining the CT ranks. In total, this will mean that 19 of the Top 34 will hail from the Southern Hemisphere. Photo: Tony Heff/WSL

Silva and Sakura Johnson are joined by fellow Hawaiian, Kauai’s Gabriela Bryan who dominated this year’s Challenger Series. Bryan solidified her position on the 2022 CT after an impressive run through the Challenger Series season, including runner-up finishes at the US Open of Surfing, Roxy Pro France, and the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger.

"It felt great going into Hale`iwa already qualified," Bryan said. "That was the main goal for me going into the Challenger Series this year, so to already accomplish that with one event left felt so good.”

Overall, this new class of rookie women will bring a huge generational shift to the Tour. At 22 years old, Costa Rica's Brisa Hennessy is the oldest in the class - and the sole returning CT surfer. Joining the Hawaiian youngsters is India Robinson, of Victoria, Australia who is 21. Along with Oceanside, California’s Caitlin Simmers. Both Sakura Johnson and Simmers are only 16, and Silva is 17.

The drama carried over to the Men’s side of the draw as the last remaining qualification berths were decided on the final day of the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger. The final qualification

Lucca Mesinas Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

spot was awarded to Carlos Munoz of Costa Rica when Aussie Kalani Ball's long-shot bid to join the Tour came to an end when he came up short in the second Semifinal. The first male from Central America to make the CT, after years of hard work and pouring his heart and soul into his surfing, Munoz will give surfers around the world much to cheer about. He'll join countrywoman Brisa Hennessy, who currently sits atop the Challenger Series ratings, on Tour next year.

"Thank you everybody who believed in me and supported me and have been through this journey with me. It's been a learning experience and all I can say is thank you," said Munoz. "I can't believe this.”

When the CT kicks off this January surf fans will have a flood of new faces to familiarize themselves with. Among the 12 Qualifiers, only three will be returning CT surfers - Hawai`i’s Ezekiel Lau, California’s Nat Young, and Australia’s Connor O’Leary. Of the remaining nine surfers, none have spent a full season on the CT. Brazil's Samuel Pupo and Joao Chianca, Costa Rica's Carlos Munoz, Australia's Jackson Baker, Callum Robson, and Liam O’Brien, Peru’s Lucca Mesinas, and Hawai`i’s Imaikalani deVault will all be true rookies.

Carlos Munoz Photo Tony Heff/WSL

Joao Chianca Photo by Damien Poullenot/WSL

An ambush surf contest series celebrating ordinary surfers everywhere. sunbum.com/bumrushtour

Pupo's qualification moment came when he advanced out of the Quarterfinals at Hale`iwa. For the effort, he'll be joining his best friend Chianca and his brother Miguel Pupo, on the CT next year.

Imaikalani deVault Photo Tony Heff/WSL

"It's been such a long journey, I've been competing on the QS since I was 15. It's been a long road," Pupo said. "It just doesn't feel real ... to be on tour with my best friend [Chianca] and my brother."

Echoing that sentiment, Aussie Jackson Baker relished the moment of learning of his confirmation on the ‘22 Tour.

"I'm shocked...I'm over the moon.

The last week has been a lot of number crunching," smiled Baker, dedicating the accomplishment to his late mother. "It's a dream come true."

Class of 2022 Championship Tour Qualifiers: Women Gabriela Bryan | HAW Brisa Hennessy | CRI Caitlin Simmers | USA India Robinson | AUS Bettylou Sakura Johnson | HAW Luana Silva | HAW

For those in the know, Maui’s Imakalani deVault is the 2022 rookie who has garnered the most excitement. His incredible mix of classic Hawaiian power surfing and Maui hi-fi new-school will be an exciting addition to the CT mix.

Men Ezekiel Lau | HAW Jake Marshall | USA Imaikalani deVault | HAW Nat Young | USA Connor O'Leary | AUS Liam O'Brien | AUS Callum Robson | AUS Lucca Mesinas | PER Joao Chianca | BRA Jackson Baker | AUS Carlos Munoz | CRI Samuel Pupo | BRA

Imaikalani deVault Photo Tony Heff/WSL

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Bettylou Sakura Johnson of Hawai`i wins the Final at the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger on December 5, 2021 in Hale`iwa, Hawai`i. (Photo by Brent Bielmann/World Surf League)

N E W S

&

E V E N T S Bettylou Sakura Johnson, the 2021 Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Women’s Champion, celebrates the biggest victory of her career in front of her hometown crowd. Photo Tony Heff/WSL

John John Florence and Bettylou Sakura Johnson claimed victory at the World Surf League Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger John John Florence (HAW) and Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) claimed victory at the World Surf League (WSL) Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger, the final stop of the 2021 Challenger Series.

Florence overpowered XL swell at the iconic North Shore reef break along with Jack Robinson (AUS), Kanoa Igarashi (JPN), and Samuel Pupo (BRA) in a thrilling, action-packed Final. It was Florence’s ninth North Shore, O`ahu victory in his career to tie the late, 3X WSL Champion Andy Irons (HAW).

“I’m feeling good, really good and it’s just so much fun being here and competing again,” said Florence. “After those injuries the last few years, it just feels good to be here and I just want to say thanks to my wife, my family, my whole team, and everyone who’s there supporting me.

It’s been huge going through these last couple years and to be here winning again is awesome.”

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This marked Robinson’s first-ever Finals appearance on the hallowed grounds of Hale`iwa and he surged through the competition on his way to a runner-up finish.

“That was a good run and it was funny because John (John Florence) and I were in a paddle battle before he just turned and went on a wave,” said Robinson. “I think that put him in a good rhythm with those two waves and I turned around thinking what just happened. But, it was such a fun event and a good tune-up for next year. It’s funny, it’s been two years since I’ve qualified now and everything here feels so different but at the same time it’s the same beautiful place and I’m just excited to be back here.”

Young Hale’iwa local Shion Crawford made a major statement in his Challenger Series debut, brilliantly surfing his way to the Quarterfinals.

Photo Tony Heff/WSL

The following day, in a dramatic Final to over Gabriela Bryan (HAW), Carissa Moore (HAW), and India Robinson (AUS), Sakura Johnson overcame inconsistent, three-to-four foot swell and provided moments of brilliance to secure her first major WSL victory and secure her qualification on the 2022 Championship Tour .

Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Men’s Champion John John Florence (center and below with runner-up Jack Robinson), did not disappoint in his highly anticipated return to competition. Looking as sharp as ever, Florence displayed some of the most exciting surfing of the event, from his first heat all the way through the final. Photo Tony Heff/WSL

“This is such a huge moment in my life,” said Sakura Johnson. “Just a big thanks to everyone being here, rain or sunshine, and I’m just going to have a big smile. Thank you to everyone in Hale`iwa, helping me and supporting me, and I’m really happy to represent Hale`iwa and do it here. I’m truly in shock.”

The 16-year-old’s calm demeanor with CT qualification looming was beyond her years as Sakura Johnson dropped an excellent 8.00 (out of a possible 10) to take the lead. Efforts from Bryan moved her into the runner-up spot over five-time WSL Champion Moore, but Sakura Johnson was out of reach after an immaculate finals day showing beginning with her Quarterfinal runner-up behind CT veteran Lakey Peterson (USA) and eventual fourth-place finisher, Robinson. Conditions tested Sakura Johnson’s ability to be patient, but she rose to the occasion in phenomenal form.

The finalists after the Final at the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

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Gabriela Bryan’s (HAW) determination and powerful surfing guided her way straight into the Final with clutch performances to advance through the Quarterfinal and Semifinal bouts over Challenger Series threats and CT hopefuls. The confirmed 2022 CT Rookie came into Hale`iwa wanting to finish the year strong and did just that to claim the Challenger Series rankings leader as she looks to keep her confidence heading into the HIC Pipe Pro in coming days and the Billabong Pro Pipeline to start the CT season.

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“I’m so happy to win the Challenger Series and I’ve gotten so much confidence throughout the year at these events,” said Bryan. “Surfing against Carissa (Moore) multiple times definitely helped build that and she’s been one of my idols since I started surfing. I can’t wait to be on the CT next year and start it here in Hawai`i.”

Women’s Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Final Results 1 - Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) 13.17 10,000 points 2 - Gabriel Bryan (HAW) 11.50 8,000 points 3 - Carissa Moore (HAW) 9.76 6,500 points 4 - India Robinson (AUS) 2.00 6,100 points

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Men’s Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Final Results: 1 - John John Florence (HAW) 18.03 10,000 points 2 - Jack Robinson (AUS) 15.03 8,000 points 3 - Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) 14.54 6,500 points 4 - Samuel Pupo (BRA) 10.13 6,100 points Photo Brent Bielmann/WSL

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LOCKED & LOADED

Surfing's Elite Gear Up for the Vans Digital Triple Crown

By Andrew Oliver

The Vans Digital Triple Crown is a digital event, (hence the name), but that doesn't mean there aren’t fans on the beach.

Eli Olson putting his talent, and local insight to use, snagging a clean one at Pipe during the early season opening day.

Look to Olson, and a deep pool of homegrown rippers to be a major threat at every spot.

Photo: Brent Bielmann 34

T

here’s no way around it, we live in a digital world. As surf fans we’re well accustomed to having events delivered to our eyeballs via the digital realm. Yes, traditional WSL Events are in fact held in real time with a live audience - but only a privileged few get to absorb the Dream Tour from the sand - the vast majority of us are relegated to our screens. And, happily so. Slow-motion replay is a wonderful thing. While there have been many iterations of purely digital surf events over the years, none have been done to quite the scale and prestige as the Vans Digital Triple Crown. A month-long superheat, pitting the world's best surfers in the world’s best waves, and providing the ultimate freedom to perform. In only its sophomore year, the Vans Digital Triple Crown has the feel of a surfing mainstay. The result is the logical evolution of the decades long traditional event matched with the media prevalence of the modern day North Shore. It’s very rare these days, that a wave ridden at one of the three jewels of the Vans Triple Crown Hale’iwa, Pipeline, and Sunset - goes unfilmed in brilliant 4K video. So, why not have an honest reckoning of who truly is the performer of the season?

The North Shore has long been the epicenter of performance big wave surfing, and while traditional surf contests have served as a good measure of who’s who in a given season.

There have always been those performances in the freesurf sessions that rival, and at times even outshine what happens in the span of a few 30 minute heats. Leaving a lot for the peanut gallery and the armchair pundits to chew over. By drastically opening up the window to capture the entirety of the season, and freeing the competitors from the tactical pressures of traditional heats, the winning results can go down truly undisputed.

Look no further than the historic performances of last year‘s champions John John Florence and Carissa Moore.

Beyond providing a competition surfing alternative, the Vans Digital Triple Crown is a vehicle to bring us back to the good old days of surfers immersing themselves in the North Shore experience. It's all about hunkering down, being here for the long-haul, and charging whatever the day serves up.

While a traditional contest will tell you when, where, and arguably how to surf, this digital event puts the surfers in the driver seat. And this year, Vans is prodding the surfers to take that freedom seriously, requiring one of their rides submitted for judging to be done on something other than your standard thruster high-performance surfboard.

Free your mind and the rest will follow!

Far from a critique of the state of contemporary professional surfing, this is a celebration! The Vans Digital Triple Crown format is in lock-step with what the top-performers are doing on a daily basis anyways. These young women and men are as dedicated as they come, out there rain or shine, onshore or off - you don’t get to the level of Carissa, or Bettylou, or John, or Jack, or any of these top performers by sleeping in and cherry picking your sessions. It's time spent in the water, going for broke, and living the dream.

Seems like something worthy of celebrating.

History, tradition, and respect abound on the North Shore.

Long live the King.

Gudauskas Brothers - Trio of Stoke Aloha is where the heart is.

The North Shore is by no means an easy place to break into. The crowds are tough, and the waves are even tougher. Some become dismayed, others, enchanted by it. The Gudauskas brothers (Pat and Tanner pictured above, Dane surfing, pictured below) fall in the latter camp. The San Clemente trio have been making the annual pilgrimage since grommethood, and have been so dedicated to the North Shore experience they have long maintained a storage unit on the island for their ever evolving and eclectic quiver.

“The Vans Triple Crown is always something I look forward to each year. It's kind of the pinnacle of the entire surfing year for my brothers and I,” said Pat. “To come to Hawai`i, and surf what is generally the best waves of our whole year - it’s rad! As you can see in the photo, our boards are kind of a reflection of that excitement for the waves here. Boards of all sorts of styles and sizes, from soft boards to 10’2”s, to fishes, to twin fins. We make it a point to always ride a bunch of different equipment every single day over here, because it's the only place in the world you really can do that.”

Quiver Photo: Andrew Oliver, Surfing Photo: Brian Bielmann

Jon Pyzel - Shaper

Photos: Brian Bielmann

It's long been known that when the visiting surfers come to town they’re best served by linking up with the local craftsman. The shaping community on the North Shore, and Hawai’i in general, has always been robust. Storied names like Brewer, Chapman, Rawson, Aipa, to name a few, helped define what performance big wave surfing became - through their designs.

In the decades following, Arakawa, Tokoro, Pang, were among the most sought after names for filling in a surfers Hawai’i quiver. In recent years Jon Pyzel has rightfully earned his spot amongst those widely respected names with his equipment being repeatedly demonstrated to perform at the highest level - look no further than his top team rider John John Florence (Pictured below).

Pyzel benefits from an open dialogue with John John, and the rest of his growing team, in fine-tuning his designs. “I gain a lot from having good relationships with my team and getting instant feedback from them,” said Pyzel. “If the waves are good in front of my house, then my yard is full of boards, and my guys are coming in, switching out boards, changing fins, and they will tell me what's working, what isn't. From there, I can go adjust the boards and have the next versions shaped, glassed up, and ready to ride in a few days. I think it works great for all of us.” Seems like the program is working!

Zoe McDougall - Local Threat They say history is written by the victors, and while Carissa Moore isn’t penning the annals of surf history herself. Her deeds cast a wide shadow - and rightfully so. But don't be mistaken, there is a force to be reckoned with among this new generation of wahine rippers nipping at the queen’s heels. Sunset Beach local, Zoe Mcdougall, charged every last ounce of swell last year during the inaugural Vans Digital Triple Crown, and put down some of the most impressive performances of the event. Look to McDougall to build on her experience and write her own history.

Photos: Brian Bielmann

Jack Robinson - The Other Freak Based on John John Florence’s performance last year, and the momentum he’s carrying from his win at the Hale’iwa Challenger Series Event, it be safe to say he’s the man to beat. If there's one man to put your money on to take out the reigning Vans Digital Triple Crown champ it’s Western Australia’s Jack Robinson. Robinson is one of the few surfers in the world who can match John John’s preternatural ability in waves of consequence. The bigger and gnarlier it is the more he begins to shine. If the forecast gets serious, definitely keep your eye on Robbo.

Portrait Photo: Brent Bielmann, Surfing Photo: Brian Bielmann

Carissa Moore - Reign Supreme To have all of the accolades and accomplishments of Carissa Moore, and to still be pushing the performance barrier so far ahead, this deep in her career, really speaks to the talent and drive that leaves her in a class all her own. Moore is now in a realm where she is building a legacy that will forever be unrivaled. With her unwavering work ethic and level-headed demeanor all-signs are pointing to her being pretty unstoppable for the foreseeable future. Photo: Christa Funk

Wade Tokoro - Shaper If there were ever an official award for a surfer’s shaper it would undoubtedly go to Wade Tokoro. This may be hard to believe as you would be hard pressed to recall seeing him in the lineup. Understandably so, because unless you do the vast majority of your surfing predawn, as Wade does, you wouldn’t see him either. But, just like his dedication to perfecting the craft of his surfboard designs, Wade is equally fanatical about his original passion surfing.

“It's really crucial that I stay in the water so I can get feedback firsthand,” said Tokoro. “I'm really thankful for my riders (Like Zeke Lau pictured), as I can get good feedback from them too. But, I really love it where I can have that first hand feedback. Where I can feel it instantly. As I’m out surfing, in my mind, I already start thinking about how to improve and make adjustments to equipment.” A master is never satisfied.

Portrait Photo: Andrew Oliver, Surf Photo: Brian Bielmann

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Bettylou Sakura Johnson - Welcome Aboard In the middle of the Hale’iwa Challenger Series Event, as Bettylou was in the midst of the greatest victory campaign of her young career, she was asked about the Vans Digital Triple Crown. “I can’t wait to do it,” Bettylou laughed. “I wanted to do it last year, but when I tried to sign up. I read in the rulebook that I was actually too young.” What a difference a year makes.

Bettylou Sakura Johnson, the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale`iwa Challenger Champion, and 2022 WSL Championship Tour qualified surfer, is officially in the Vans Digital Triple Crown. Look out ladies!

Photo: Brian Bielmann Inset: Andrew Oliver

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Kai Paula, morning glory.

Photo: Dayanidhi Das

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Photo: Brent Bielmann

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Seth Moniz, contemporary power move, Rocky Rights.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

If it's barelling somewhere, anywhere, chances are Mason Ho is out there - locked in.

Photo: Tai Vandyke Inset photo: Brian Bielmann

A rare moment of solitude at Waimea Bay. Photo: John Weaver Inset photo: Brian Bielmann

Points along the North Shore visual spectrum. (left) Rio Waida, Photo: Brian Bielmann, (top right) Steve Roberson, Photo: Tai Van Dyke, (bottom right) Mason Hyce Barnes, Photo: Brian Bielmann

Nalo Dedato Photos: Mike Latronic

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Robert Grilho

Brett Simpson

While his result at the Hale’iwa Challenger Series event didn’t reflect it, Michel Bourez is far and away one of the best to ever surf Hale’iwa.

Bourez, demonstrating his prowess. Photo: Brian Bielmann

Surfers from all around the world bring every style of surfing known to man to the waves of the North Shore. This day, Brazil’s Jesse Mendes brought his dancing shoes. Mendes laying it down on the Rocky Point dancefloor.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Shion Crawford, going from grom to man, one power-gouge at a time.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

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2021 NSSA Nationals Story & Photos by Mike Latronic

After the past two years of dealing with closures and cancellations due to Covid 19 it was truly a breath of fresh air to see the tribes gathering again for this year’s NSSA Nationals. Hugs, hi-5’s and great surfing were seen each day of competition.

Huntington Beach California AKA Surf City USA, set the stage for the 8-day competitive rally, November 16-23 and for the most part, the Southside of HB pier featured fun 2-4’ surf, dropping off to 1-3’ on the final days.

From Haiku to Cape Hatteras, to San Diego and Santa Cruz and back, top young surfers gathered from all-across America to battle for bragging rights and top honors. Presented by Huntington Surf n Sport, Sex Wax and Coaches Oats this event really is a great snapshot of America’s future stars.

Inspired performances were seen from surfers from all parts of America from and the results tell the story. Here’s a truncated list of the results but be sure to check out the full list of results on-line at www.freesurfmagazine.com.

Big ups to good folks at Coaches Oats and Java Jaws Coffee for taking care of the crew every morning!

See the full results at nssa.org

A name we all will undoubtedly hear more and more of is Shion Crawford Crawford has proven himself to be one of the most dynamic and hardworking surfers in the water and more recently has developed a comfort, and high percentage rate for pulling off aerials as part of his already strong repertoire.

Maui's Levi Young surfed a smart contest and applied consistent yet explosive maneuvering to capture victories in two divisions!

Getting the highest score of the contest (9.93) Nora Liotta used her power and speed to blaze to both women's finals and place runner up to Kenworthy in one of them.

The longboard division staged at Huntington Beach was like a blast from the past combined with new-school reality.

Conjuring classic poses straight out of the "David Nuuihawa textbook," NYC's Chase Leider styled and had toes over the nose, all the way to a first place spot.

Part of a long list of rising new names from Hawai`i, Matteus Santos churned out some great heats and was a double finalist.

East Coast's Blayr Barton showed solid form in the event with a notable penchant for hard, fast surfing.

2021 NSSA Nationals

With catlike reflexes, dynamic surfing and a knack for making every section explode with inertia and spray, Kai Martin was definitely one of the top all around performers throughout the whole week.

Bella Kenworthy was a "hammer," ultimately making history by "nailing" victory in ALL FOUR women's divisions. That smiling face is so very well deserved!

Kauai's Rylan Beavers was fresh off a win at the Rip Curl Grom Search a week prior, and it showed in his confidence and surfing, Beavers nabbed a win in Explorer Boys for his effort.

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Kai Lenny of Hawai`i surfs during the Heat 1 of Round 2 of the TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge presented by Jogos Santa Casa. Photo Antoine Justes/ WSL

Spectacular Surfing at TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge Presented by Jogos Santa Casa NAZARÉ, Portugal (Monday, December 13, 2021) - Competition got underway bright and early this morning at Nazaré’s Praia do Norte for the World Surf League (WSL) TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge presented by Jogos Santa Casa. A beautiful sunny day and clean, offshore 40-to50 foot bombs set the scene for what would be an epic showcase of the world’s best big wave surfers pushing the performance bar in Portugal.

Lucas Chianca (BRA) was quick to set the scale on the very first wave of the event, fading right with a 360° spin in the middle of the wave face before racing on a high line on the left to score a nice barrel vision. His compatriot Pedro Scooby (BRA) was hands down the most impressive surfer out in the lineup in the first half of the day as he set himself up for the biggest, deepest barrels, and eventually scored a clean exit with the spit to take the top spot on the leaderboard after the first three heats, courtesy of a near-perfect 9.50 score (out of a possible 10).

“It was a crazy heat,” Scooby said. “We chose the wrong waves at the beginning and I was going crazy but Nic [Von Rupp] calmed me down and ended up putting me on a bomb. His driving put me in the perfect spot and I just did the rest, the barrel was really good.”

Kai Lenny (HAW) did his part of the job to take his duo up top the team leaderboard, scoring some nice rides on the lefts of Nazaré but not quite managing to find the hollow sections his partner Chianca was all over.

Justine Dupont Photo Antoine Justes/WSL

On the women’s side of the draw, Justine Dupont (FRA) held the lead after her first two sessions with good waves but was on the wrong end of an interference call which opened the door for her opponents Maya Gabeira (BRA) and Michelle des Bouillons (BRA) in their second go at the Portuguese lineup.

Des Bouillons stayed extremely busy in the lineup, surfing maybe the most rides out of the field but struggled to find the deep sections and was always a little away on the shoulder, hindering her scores.

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When the dust settled on the six, 50-minute heats, the leaderboard standings post first round remained accurate as Lucas Chianca (BRA) walked away with the Men’s Best Performance award for his ferocious attack of the big lefts earlier this morning. Towed in by his partner, and 2020 winner Kai Lenny (HAW), the Brazilian rising star of the big wave world got his time to shine and stepped up with a massive performance.

The pair successfully defended their 2020 title as the combined efforts of Lenny and Chianca once again put their team atop the leaderboard for the Best Team Performance award.

“It’s a dream-come-true working with someone like Lucas (Chianca) because we’re so like-minded,” Lenny added. “We go out and we know the exact waves we want and we’re trying to push our performance as far as we can in the airs, barrels and turns, and we’re just having so much fun out there.”

Pierre Rollet Photo Laurent Masurel/WSL

Despite a close call in her second heat, with the interference that could have cost her the victory, Justine Dupont (FRA) also managed to retain her title. Her attack of the rights and lefts, carving on the massive wave faces proved once again unmatchable as she claimed back-to-back Women’s Best Performance award.

Pressure was definitely palpable in the final heat of the day as Pedro Scooby (BRA) was chasing a relatively low score to push his name and his team atop the leaderboard. The bomb he needed unfortunately never manifested and he had to settle for the second spot in the individual rankings.

Justine Dupont of France wins the Women's Wave of the day.

Photo Laurent Masurel/WSL

But the Brazilian powerhouse’s morning exploits, scoring the deepest tubes and taking maximum risks to put himself in the sketchiest sections won him the Jogos Santa Casa Most Committed Award.

Andrew Cotton Photo Antoine Justes/WSL

With the TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge pres. by Jogos Santa Casa completed today, the best big wave surfers on the planet will now shift their focus to the Pacific and track swells around Hawai`i in anticipation of the Quiksilver Jaws Big Wave Challenge presented by TUDOR. The TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge pres. by Jogos Santa Casa is proudly supported by TUDOR, Jogos Santa Casa, Red Bull, Corona, Hertz, MEO, Portuguese Waves, Visit Portugal, Oeste Portugal, and Nazaré City Council.

The TUDOR Nazaré Tow Surfing Presented by Jogos Santa Casa was broadcast LIVE on WorldSurfLeague.com and YouTube, as well as the free WSL app. The same platforms offer an array of replay content, from the full day of action to cutdowns of the best action, highest scores, interviews and more.

For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Lucas Chianca wins the Men's Wave of the day. Photo Laurent Masurel/WSL

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Team USA celebrates Team Gold Medal. Photo: ISA / Ben Reed

USA Reclaims Team Gold on Dramatic Day of Finals in Pismo Beach Roy Calderon and Jimena Ruiz deliver first wins for Costa Rica Team Spain earns Silver, Brazil Bronze, and Costa Rica Copper Seven new World Champions are crowned, nine previous World Champions increase individual gold medal totals

The surf pumped throughout a dramatic finals day in Pismo Beach for the 2021 ISA World Para Surfing Games, leading home-team USA to their second gold medal in the Para Surfing Team Championship.

Team USA acquired a trilogy of gold medals courtesy of Liv Stone, Sarah Bettencourt and Jose Martinez. The two women used a combination of clever heat strategy and solid surfing to back up their 2020 wins in Stand 1 and Prone 1 respectively, while Martinez pushed his teammate Jesse Billauer to the bitter end in the last heat of the day, the Men’s Prone 2 final.

“I’m always proud to be a veteran, but this is on the ultimate level,” said Martinez. “To represent my country for a new sport that’s coming out, that I see as absolutely epic and is going to be so meaningful for the rest of the world, not just for us. I am grateful and I am honored.”

Four former champions find magic in the number three

find success in Men’s Visually Impaired 2 and Women’s Stand 2 respectively.

The number three was the order of the day for four returning champions who each claimed their third gold medal. Para Surfing pioneers Mark “Mono” Stewart (AUS) and Alcino “Pirata” Neto both saw themselves back on top, while Victoria Feige (CAN) and Melissa Reid (ENG) made it three in a row, as the first two women to win three gold medals in Para Surfing history.

“I worked three shifts and gave up all of my vacation time to pay for my travel,” Calderon said. “I’m so happy to win this for all of Costa Rica!”

“The girls are all charging and I love to see that,” said Feige. “I think we’re going to keep raising the level of adaptive surfing.”

Roy Calderon and Jimena Ruiz deliver first wins for Costa Rica Costa Rica achieved their first two Para Surfing gold medals, with both Roy Calderon and Jimena Ruiz improving on previous results to 70

Fresh faces find gold with dominant division victories.

Two women found themselves wearing gold around their necks for the first time. In the Women’s Visually Impaired 1 final Marta Paço (POR) put early pressure on the rest of the field and didn’t let up on her way to a convincing win. A dynamic final defined Joyce Neumueller’s (AUS) victory in Women’s Prone 2, with the lead constantly changing before she posted an 8.00 and sealed the deal in her first appearance on the international stage.

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Audrey Pascual adding another medal for team Spain. Photo: ISA / Sean Evans

Outstanding performances across multiple divisions raise the bar

Klang’s teammate Nachman Balulu won his first silver medal.

Firstly, for the actual competitors and their families and friends at home.

Leaving his best for last, Fellipe Kizu Lima, opened the Sit final with the highest single wave score of the event, a 9.83. With a backup of an 8.93, the Brazilian accumulated a total of 18.76 to deliver the highest heat score of the championship and beat his own previous record of the second highest total in Para Surfing history.

Also going one and two for their country, defending champion of Men’s Stand 1, Mike Richards Vaz (BRA), collected his second gold medal over his teammate Jonathan Borba in silver, though Richards left it to the final moments to catch the wave that took him from fourth place to first.

Secondly for the thousands and thousands of para surfers around the world.

Hansen retains record as Para Surfing’s most successful Men’s Prone 1 brought the drama as Hawai`i’s Casey Proud came convincingly close to taking the win away from the undefeated Bruno Hansen of Denmark. However, Hansen retained his record as the winningest participant in Para Surfing history, earning himself an unprecedented sixth gold medal.

Sending his love around the world, Hansen said, “I’d like to dedicate this to all the teams that couldn’t make it to this event this year.

This gold medal is for you guys.”

It was team Israel who saw themselves victorious in Men’s Stand 2. The everexuberant Adi Klang kissed the sand as he clung to his nation’s flag, an impressive performance increasing his gold medal count.

ISA President Fernando Aguerre said: “The getting together of the top para surfers of the world at the ISA World Championship matters a lot.

Thirdly for the people with different abilities that today don’t surf for any reason.

And finally for the rest of the world as a way to remember that impossible is nothing.

Para Surfing belongs in the Paralympic Games.

Getting in is as difficult as getting in the Olympic Games. And I know something about this subject. But two days ago, the Executive Board of the IOC voted to include surfing as a permanent sport in the Olympics. So, getting in the Paralympic Games might be a bit easier now.

And last, but certainly not the least, I wanted to share my biggest hope: I hope that this event brings hope to the rest of the world.

Making the world better through surfing and para surfing.

Thank you Pismo.

Peace, love and surf!!!”

See full results at isasurf.org

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E N V I R O N M E N T

Contaminated Water Unifies Island to Demand Shutdown of Red Hill Fuel Tanks

By Surfrider Foundation Oʻahu Chapter, Tabatha Knudson & Doorae Shin Photos Jason Lees / OHA When residents on Oʻahu started noticing a fuel smell and taste in their water last month, it seemed the worst case scenario had come true. Over 80 years ago, the United States Navy built an underground bulk storage facility in Red Hill, just west of Moanalua, to store up to 250 million gallons of jet fuel for World War II. Each of the 18 operational tanks are 250 feet tall, large enough to fit the Aloha Tower within each tank, and they act as a source of fuel for the military’s ships and planes.

If the sheer volume of these tanks isn't alarming enough, they lie rusting no more than 100 feet over Oʻahu's main aquifer, which supplies the island’s freshwater from Halawa to Hawai`i Kai. Half of Oʻahu’s residents, along with millions of visitors, depend upon this irreplaceable water source. If contamination spreads, the impact is unconscionable. What would hospitals do to access clean water? How would families shower, do their laundry, clean their dishes or cook food? Every part of our lives depends upon clean water, and this critical resource is now threatened.

With the tanks continuing to corrode with no preventative action, and some parts being no thicker than that of a dime, it’s no wonder our water supply has been poisoned. If one of the fuel storage tanks was shrunk to the size of a Hydro Flask, the wall would be as thin as aluminum foil. After over 80 years since its construction and the last major Pacific war, these fuel tanks are still in use and continue to pose catastrophic threats to O`ahu's people and its environment.

The Surfrider Foundation was horrified when the Navy then released this fuel-contaminated water straight into our storm drains, flooding directly into our oceans, streams and surrounding environment. Now, people on Oʻahu not only need to be afraid of the water they drink, cook and shower with, but they also have to be hesitant of swimming and surfing in our nearshore waters. In addition, our corals, fish, birds, and other organisms are at risk of ingesting jet fuel, jeopardizing their health and the wellbeing of our coastal ecosystems.

Since 1943, almost 200,000 gallons of jet fuel have leaked from the Red Hill facility into our freshwater supply and environment.

This includes the 27,000 gallon fuel spill that occurred in 2014 alone.

Just last month on November 20, another 14,000 gallons of fuel from Red Hill leaked, and just a week later, reports of sickness and a fuel smell and taste started to roll in. Now we know that over 100,000 people have been affected by the fuel leak, with 2,800 displaced, and some even hospitalized.

Not only did the Navy double down on their acts of mass pollution, they are also fighting the recent emergency orders from Governor Ige and the Hawai’i Department of Health to drain the fuel tanks.

This wasn’t an isolated event either. In 2020, a bill was proposed to effectively shut down the Red Hill tanks by 2028. The Navy lobbied extensively against this bill, and they succeeded. In May of this year, a 1,000 gallon fuel leak occurred. Recovered emails revealed that the Navy had evidence that this leakage was active, but they waited months to report it to the Department of Health.

The impacted population includes the Navy’s own families at Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam, which includes military housing, schools and a day care center, along with the Aliamanu Military Reservation. This crisis has occurred solely at the fault of the Navy’s persistent inaction despite knowledge of these threats for decades.

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The Navy’s own studies cite that there is a nearly 1 in 3 chance that the facility could leak up to 30,000 gallons of fuel every year. Despite this alarming data, the Navy still refuses to take adequate action to prevent this. On top of that, their studies state that a sudden release of 120,000 gallons or a slow release of 2,300 gallons of jet fuel per year per tank “would have, at most, a minimal impact on groundwater.”

As we can see by this recent spill of 14,000 gallons causing multiple hospitalizations, the impact is significantly more than “minimal”.

80 years. 200,000 gallons of jet fuel leaked. Persistent inaction.

Everyone deserves the right to clean water. How many times must people be hospitalized, their health threatened and our environments destroyed before enough is enough? Do we wait for an earthquake or another large leak to poison our water source once again, before we demand quick and decisive action?

We must make sure that this is the last time that our water supply and our interconnected environment are contaminated. We must guarantee that the Navy follows the orders of the Department of Health and drains the fuel tanks. We must ensure that the Navy no longer has the ability to threaten the health and wellbeing of Oʻahu’s people, ecosystems, and communities. We must fight for our neighbors, for our keiki, for our families. We can do it, but we need the help of the entire community to be aware and stand up against these harmful practices.

One important action is the passage of Bill 48, which was introduced this month by the Honolulu City Council, and which would effectively require the shutdown of these tanks due to their persistent leaks and proximity to our aquifer. Another call to action is to call for the Biden administration to order the tanks to be de-fueled and decommissioned.

Storage alternatives exist for the Navy, and they have an urgent duty to take action immediately to prevent any further leaks or damage to our water source and to the public trust.

The Sierra Club of Hawaiʻi has been a leader on this issue for several years. For more information about how you can get involved and for the latest updates on this issue, visit @sierraclubhi on instagram and subscribe to their email list at sierraclubhawaii.org/redhill.

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EDDIE AIKAU OPENING CEREM ONY The 2021 - 2022 Eddie is a Go! Congratulations to all the talented invitees and alternates that have the opportunity to honor the life and legacy of the legendary, Eddie Aikau. After the Big Wave Invitational was cancelled last year due to safety concerns around COVID-19, everyone is excited and more than ready to participate in this sacred event.

Surfing is Hawaiian, and with that comes a certain level of respect that is required to earn respect. We saw an epic demonstration of the love we share for this sport and culture in early December when the opening ceremony for the Eddie commenced at Waimea Bay. Paying tribute and giving proper respect to Mother Nature and those who have paved the way for future generations is a tradition as Eddie’s legacy is timeless and will continue for generations to come.

KALANI RIVERO JOINS SALTY CREW

A perfect match was made between local hammer, Kalani Rivero and Salty Crew. Whether it’s flat or 10ft, Kalani simply loves being in the ocean and has proved that he’s just as talented of a fisherman as he is a surfer. We’re beyond stoked for his journey with a more than appropriate brand backing him.

UNCLE M EL’S WATERM AN CLAS S I C All kinds of fun went down at Makaha beach with Uncle Mel's Watermen Classic, if you’ve never been to the event it is definitely a must-see. Shown here, Nelson Mahina, took top honors in the longboard division which also served as a qualifier for the WSL Longboard Tour. Mahalo to Andre Derizans, for spearheading this particular division and giving Hawaiian longboard surfers a chance to compete on the world stage.

Z EKE LAU X JAS ON M AM OA COLLAB Zeke Lau and Jason Mamoa, two Hawaiians who have found major success in the surfing industry and the entertainment industry, have teamed up with Electric to spread Aloha and support our beloved coastlines. Electric has worked closely with Jason Mamoa to build a pair of eco-friendly shades that not only look sick and perform great during epic adventures, but they also support the Non-Profit OrganizationSustainable Coastlines Hawai`i. Mahalo, Jason and Zeke, for spreading Aloha and demonstrating what community support looks like.

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RIDE NATURE Ride Nature is an action sports mission organization headquartered out of Fort Myers, Florida. They are dedicated to giving generously, proclaiming the Gospel of Jesus Christ, and making disciples through action sports outreach, evangelism, and discipleship, while equipping leaders worldwide with the tools necessary to do the same. Head to their site to see how you can give back and get involved.

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Grace in chaos. Zeke Lau is no stranger to muscling his way through the most powerful waves. Zeke, making his mark at Hale’iwa. Photo: Brian Bielmann