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FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA

LEVI SLAWSON

A D V O C AT E S O F C A P T U R E

BRENT

BIELMANN

PHOTOGRAPHY AND MOTION NET WORK

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P A R K I N G

Will the double black diamond slopes of the outer reef open this season - it remains to be seen. But, one thing is for sure, there's a dedicated group of chargers with their lift tickets ready. Evan Valiere is one.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

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TA B L E

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C O N T E N T S

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Free Parking

46

Aperture

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Editor's Note

62

News & Events

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Man With A Camera

66

Tom Morey

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Alaska

74

Ocean Cleanup

34

Surf Art

76

Stuff We Like

38

Textured Waves

78

Industry Notes

44

Steep & Deep

82

Last Look

Photo: John Weaver

Luke Tema

Sunset Beach Photo: Latronic/Manulele

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F E AT U R E S

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MAN WITH A CAMERA ERIK KNUDSON

28 ALASKA

The Stoke Runs Hot in the Deep Cold

38 TEXTURED WAVES

A collective founded by three African American female surfers

46 APERTURE

The North Shore is now open

U S Pa te n t D 8 8 6 ,6 6 6

ELI OLSON

AVA I L A B L E AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

All Roads Lead to Stoke Photo: Brent Bielmann

By Andrew Oliver

Surfing is one of those paradoxical things which on the surface appear to be rather simple - in its essence the act of riding a wave is fairly straightforward - but for those of us devoted to this basic sensation we know all too well that surfing permeates our lives in incredibly complex ways.

From the instinctual physicality of reacting to the ever changing contours of a wave, to our obsessive thoughts of all things surf between sessions, surfing captures us uniquely, in moments when our mind is both turned “off” and “on.” This is likely the reason why surfing is a deeply personal and unique pursuit, as there aren’t many things in our lives that occupy such varying degrees of our mental experience.

Obsession and addiction, terms that generally conjure the negative, have long been used to describe our relationship with surfing, and understandably so. And, let's be honest, to be devoted to something on this level we are bound to take it deeply personal. Unfortunately, that can lead us to fall back on our baser instincts, divided among ourselves, clinging to our beliefs of what is “right” or “wrong” in surfing.

As diverse as wave riding and the culture that surrounds it has become, when we step back and retrace the myriad paths that surfing has taken, we end up at that same fundamental source - the rush of harnessing the energy of the ocean and gliding on a wave.

In this issue, we remember Tom Morey, inventor of the bodyboard and champion of open-mindedness and exploration in wave riding, feature one of surfing’s most respected filmmakers, Erik Knutson, and join a band of wahine wanderers as they journey into the frigid Alaskan winter waves.

Three disparate paths, all seeking the same destination - stoke.

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AL A MOA N A CE N T E R | KOKO M AR INA HYAT T R E GE N CY WA I K I K I

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“SURFING WITH ALOHA SINCE 1977”

Man With A Movie Camera Erik Knutson, John John Florence, and the Cutting-Edge of Surf Filmmaking.

By Andrew Oliver

J

ohn John Florence, without question, is the most influential surfer of his generation. That stature is in no small part due to the incredible body of work he’s produced documenting his groundbreaking surfing on film.

While his films have consistently pushed the boundaries of what we come to expect from high-performance surf videos therefore, requiring much bigger production teams than the oneperson shows that put out the vast majority of edits that come across our screens - there's been one instrumental figure that's been at the heart of it all from the beginning, John John’s full-time filmer, Erik Knutson.

Far from just being in the right place at the right time, Knutson has matched the creative aspiration of John John every step of the way, pushing himself in all aspects of filmmaking to become one of the most highlyregarded surf-shooters in the world. FreeSurf caught up with the lesser-known of this dynamic duo to learn a little about their epic creative journey and insight into some exciting projects down the line.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

When I was in college, John John was just getting on tour and his mom kind of approached me one day while we were all surfing backdoor. And she asked, “Hey, we're looking for someone to travel with us and shoot with us?” And, I said, “I gotta finish school, but I do have a camera.”

And I was actually gonna be in Portugal, while they were going to be in France for John's first event. So I ended up meeting up with those guys, and Daniel Russo was traveling with him because he was getting stills for Van's, but Russo also had a Red camera. So that was where both John and I got our first introduction to Red cameras. Russo had a Red One and we were all fired up on it.

Let's go back to the origin of your story. How is it that you ended up working behind the camera for one of the best surfers of all time?

Growing up, the Handycam was a part of the family. And so we'd always mess around with that. And then once surfing kind of took over my life, someone's always with a camera, and you’d kind of pair off with your buddies filming each other.

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hrough high school, we’d all kind of traded off filming and, and making little surf films and whatever. Hanging with Mason and Cheeseburger and all those guys at V Land, that was our crew. I'd always like to go get a few waves and then ride my bike back down there before the sun sets and try to capture some of the crew. Before I’d go in I’d tell them all, “I'm going to go get my camera, like stay out.

You know?” It was just so fun.

I shot with Russo that whole trip in Europe and it kind of snowballed into working with him the next winter. He would shoot stills and I'd shoot video on land, or I’d be on the ski with him and I'd be doing video and he'd be shooting stills and driving, which got us into all sorts of terrifying moments out in the outer reefs.

It’s a team effort. Erik and John John nailing the shot on an outer reef.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

And that was right around the time when John was gonna make A View From a Blue Moon with Blake Kueny. And, Blake was trying to step out of that full cinematographer role and actually focus more on directing.

He liked editing, and wanted to create more of the storyline, work behind the scenes on the direction of the actual piece, and bring it all together. He was trying to phase out of the everyday monotonous kind of filming. But, I really like that part of it, I love hustling and running down the beach and shooting more so than editing. So it was a perfect marriage of creativity there. We were stoked traveling and I just kinda kept charging with that crew.

And so, one day I was riding my bike down the driveway, and Kalani Robb was my neighbor, and it just so happened that Bill Ballard was there filming something for one of his surf films and Kalani. And, Kalani was like, “This is your guy, dude. You got to get him hired.” And so, I worked with him, and I also worked with Mike Latronic and you guys at FreeSurf. Mike signed off on my hours for my high school senior year.

So I only went to school for like an hour or something. It was so silly.

Like I had my license pretty early. And so I was always like in and out of high school somehow, it felt like a college class my last year. I remember we did a lot of stuff with Larry Haynes, logging a lot of his tapes, it was super fun to have him in the studio and kind of see how it was all going down in there.

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As with anyone who does this, it's all kind of relative to whether the surfs good. If so, we're really hustling and trying to find the best waves.

Obviously, most of the time we know when it's going to be good and we’ll have an idea of where we're going. If it's a Pipe day for example, “Are we going to set up another angle? Who's going to help me film and I'm going to swim out?” We got to get everyone prepared on that day. Or if it's somewhere else, does the ski gotta be ready? So we're definitely hustling in that sense of being prepared. But on a normal day to day, you know, John surfs a lot.

You clearly put in a lot of work to gain the experience and expertise to operate very cutting edge equipment. And you had to become able to contribute effectively to these projects - that had very high aspirations. But, how fortunate to partner with someone that had the patience to see these big projects through, and really push the envelope.

His creativity and what he wants out of the films and how he's documented and everything is unmatched. He's so driven to create awesome work and really has a high standard. And it keeps you on that high level. I definitely don't want to let him down because he has that

super high standard, and work ethic. He's in it, you know, and you see it. He's stoked to come behind the camera and look at how things are filmed. He really wants to be involved in the angles and knows what looks good. And I've always been super receptive to that. It's been fun creatively. We're working together rather than I'm working for him, you know? So it's been a fun process for sure.

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nd to see an athlete on that high level to have that kind of vision, and to do whatever it takes to capture these moments, he's always been stoked on that.

It seems like you guys adhere to the “quality over quantity,” motto.

And, we don’t really have a daily vlog style look into your guys whole program. You're not putting something out every day, but I know you're still working extremely hard, on a daily basis. So, what does the day to day look like for you?

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o, I'm just waiting for the call and hustling down to the beach and documenting. John knows what we're working on. And we can always get the lifestyle shots and stuff like that, where it comes. But we definitely try to think of the shots we want to get and approach it like, “Okay, today we're going to try and get this shot.” The day to day surf stuff that is more just like being there and getting the shot kind of thing. Try not to miss anything and obviously shoot it really well. But it's more of a tool. I send him all the clips and then he's studying them to see how his boards are working, and to share them with Pyzel, and he’ll send them through to his coaches.

Definitely in the past, it's been something where we were trying to hold all of our cards pretty close. There's definitely waves that they like to go to that generally, no one's ever at. So in those cases, we're not really too worried about it. But, I think the way we kind of package our edits, like if you saw a wave twice, even if we posted one of his airs or his barrels or something like that, you're not going to be bummed if you saw it in an edit, put together with good music and a string of different clips. Even if half the session landed on his brother's blog or Koa’s. We still tend to put it out as well.

Recently, John and I have been talking about making a pretty cool edit for this winter, focusing on something bigger than what we have been lately, which has just been trying to focus on his YouTube channel with putting out content in a way he wants to, so we haven't really been holding on to too much. Whereas he seems pretty psyched to try and work out something and storyboard some cool ideas of a proper edit.

So with that being said, that's going to change how we build these sessions.

There's probably so much unused footage from your guys' archive. People would be happy to watch footage from 12 years ago, or whatever - they’ll be psyched.

Yeah. There's a ton of that.

We’re sitting on a lot of this stuff because when John was winning world titles and we were making films and series around that.

There was a lot of footage that

I guess it's a little hard to really say what my day to day is, cause every day is completely different.

There's also the case of, “He got this smoking wave, did we get it somewhere where 10 other cameramen got it?” If that's so, maybe we just post our angle of it that day. Especially if it’s one at Pipe and everyone else has it already, we'll kind of put our little spin on it, and get it up there as quickly as we can.

The exclusivity thing that's, that's nothing new. It's something filmers have dealt with for a while. Obviously John's someone that people want to shoot. How hard are you guys working to get exclusive sessions? You don't have to give away any secrets, Haha.

In the past it's definitely been an issue when we were working on A View From a Blue Moon, because obviously we wanted to have an epic film with stuff that no one had seen. So there were definitely moments where it was like, “Holy crap, there's someone in the bushes literally waiting for John to surf.” Haha

didn't make it in any of that stuff.

So, I think it's kind of a fun thing that we can kind of put out now. We have a pretty cool one coming out with John and Dave Rastovich. We went on one of our little surf trips to this spot outside of Tourquay, they got some cool little barrels and stuff. And, we were able to turn it into a cool 10 minute YouTube video that hopefully people are going to be stoked on.

That's epic! It'll give you guys time to breathe and continue to pursue the bigger projects, but keep people kind of satisfied on a more regular basis.

With John everything is always in flux with what he wants to do, but I think this year is going to be pretty exciting. I know he's really psyched to surf, and we have the Vans digital Triple Crown. Obviously, he's really stoked on that. It'd be cool to see him do well in that again.

And, we'll push to make something along the lines of Maps of Home, but probably a little more thought out. So, that should be pretty sick!

An ambush surf contest series celebrating ordinary surfers everywhere. sunbum.com/bumrushtour

ALASKA

The Stoke Runs Hot in the Deep Cold Reflections on an all-wahine mid-winter surf trip to Alaska.

Words and Surfing by Kirra Seale and Anna Gudauskas All photos by Sarah Lee Kirra: Close your eyes and try to imagine Alaska in February. The most beautiful landscape full of bright white glistening mountains and ice blue glaciers that take your breath away. Snowflakes landing on your lashes and the chill in the air penetrating deep into your bones. Now imagine being there but on a fishing boat. Waves and wind whipping at the sides. Splashing and rocking you while in search of perfect waves. No other humans in sight and in the middle of nowhere out at sea in Alaska in hopes of pioneering new waves. That’s where our story begins...

Kirra Seale

Anna: We are definitely tougher than we may have thought, but Alaskans are still tougher. During a month where most boats are frozen to their docks and crew members flock to warmer climates, we were trying, accompanied by some incredible stroke of luck, to find surf along an often bypassed stretch of Alaskan coastline. Abiding by Captain Mike’s motto "When the stoke is hot, you can endure a lot" we climbed aboard eager for a new adventure.

Captain Mike was kind enough to offer to have us onboard “The Milo”, a 58 ft fishing vessel that’s been converted for surf exploration. He needed to get the boat from Homer to Seward, where his coldwater surf trips begin in spring.

Mike McCune acquired the boat after selling his house and business to reclaim his passions for surf exploration. Equipped with all-time crew members, he's responsible for discovering a majority of the distant surf breaks of America's most northern state.

K: Anna Ehrgott, now Gudauskas, said goodbye to her small surf accessories business and then fiancé Dane to join professional water photographer Sarah Lee and I, North Shore born and raised professional longboarder Kirra Seale.

Sarah and I headed over first to get used to the cold. We had a week of snowboarding and adjusting to the climate change. Never surfing in anything thicker than a 2mm wetsuit, I was beyond nervous. Anna, the cold water connoisseur met us in Anchorage as we boarded a tiny plane to Homer.

A: Not only was this to be our Alaska Surf Guide's second ever trip in the dead of winter, but we also happened to be a group of three girls coming straight from Hawaii. A decent amount can go wrong in the wintertime northern seas, as anyone who’s watched The Deadliest Catch can attest to. You have to flex your common sense muscles when you’re miles out at sea in oceans that could kill you in minutes. Upon boarding and getting a tour of the boat, we were instructed to throw up inside or on the deck if we became sick. The risk of going overboard is taken seriously.

Anna Gudauskas

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K: The excitement of seeing constantly perfect peeling right and left point breaks popping up at every turn made the amount of rubber we had to put on less daunting. We would scale down into the engine room and sway and nearly fall over as we managed to get into our 7mm wetsuits, wool socks with 7mm booties and gloves. We then proceeded to wipe a thick layer of vaseline all over our faces and pull on our hoods. I genuinely did not think I’d be able to surf. I felt like I was sinking and my board no longer had enough volume for all my extra weight. Anna was in her element so I just followed along hoping to gain some cold water wisdom. After nearly two waves and feeling as if my body didn’t belong to me, I soon realized the hood had to go. The boat captain and crew looked at me like I was crazy, but, being from Hawaii and never wearing a wetsuit, my equilibrium and balance disappeared when putting on a hood. I certainly will never take for granted being able to hear your surroundings. No words can describe the feeling of being absolutely in the middle of nowhere with jagged snow capped mountains in front of you. Huge sea lions swimming beneath you and sharing multiple perfect left point breaks with just a few friends. Bobbing around on your log next to icebergs while being frozen to the core, but so incredibly happy and in awe of Mother Nature that your heart instantly warms you up.

A: The first rough crossing came in the evening of our third night. After the sun had set, we could no longer keep our eyes fixed on the horizon to stabilize the rocking that throws your equilibrium into a tailspin. That first crossing laid us all up in the cabin clutching to handrails, trying not to think about puking or all the comforts of solid ground. By the third crossing we’d all found our spots to get through it. Kirra under her pillow fort on the couch, Sarah butted up to the heating vent, and me at the kitchen table watching the pots and pans sway.

K: I genuinely never have felt so scared in my life. I definitely had the thought that if I died out here I wouldn’t even be able to call my mom and tell her I loved her. But, those fears and rough crossings quickly dissipated the moment we would see the next untouched wave. The winds were gentle but the ice cream headaches were still real as we surfed multiple 4 hour windows before finally returning to the boat to thaw out.

A: Recalibrating to life on land was jarring after our time at sea. The bathroom of our snowed-in motel swayed around us with mal de debarquement syndrome leaving us feeling like we were still on The Milo Surf Boat. Thinking back on the trip, it seems like it wasn’t real. An adventure beyond our wildest imagination and pushing us past our limits in the most euphoric way.

Kirra Seale 32

Lola Pilar Hawai’i

Did your prints sell immediately?

All of the framed pieces that day sold, and within a week, most everything sold – so that was really awesome. I started to get a few custom orders too. The whole experience was very eye-opening and helped to validate that people liked what I was creating, and it pushed me to get my website up and running because people were starting to contact me through Instagram for orders.

By Jenn Tokin

Working under the name of Lola Pilar Hawaii, local artist Kristen Reyno has amassed an impressive body of work - especially her signature photographic prints of carefully arranged floral flat-lay designs. The striking images are a direct result of her technical experience merged with her love for Hawai’l’s unique flora.

Increasingly uncommon these days among creative types of the Instagram generation, Reyno has deep technical photographic training and experience. After graduating with a degree in film and commercial advertising from the Brooks Institute of Photography, Reyno worked in the film industry in Hawaii and LA, then landed a permanent job with Quiksilver doing in-house product photography for their website and lookbooks, along with providing imagery to all of their main accounts.

In retrospect it makes perfect sense that her creative work has come full-circle to celebrate Hawai’i’s natural splendor. Reyno grew up on the verdant East side of Oahu, one of the most beautiful locales in all of Hawai’i. Moving back to Oahu in 2010, Reyno started her own wedding and family photography business and also worked as a freelance photographer for various local magazines. But it was the natural beauty of her surroundings that served as her creative muse and continues to propel her artwork.

FreeSurf caught up with Reyno to talk about her passion for photography and what inspires her to create.

When did you start Lola Pilar Hawaii?

In 2018 I started to dabble in floral flat-lay arrangements and taking photos of them. Later in the same year, a friend of mine, Amanda Watkins, was opening up a boutique in Kaimuki ('awa + 'ōlena). Amanda asked if I would be willing to showcase my first collection at her grand opening party - and I jumped at the opportunity.

Are you just focusing on Lola Pilar full-time?

No, I'm actually still doing weddings and family portraits. It’s all a juggle, I just had a family shoot earlier this morning. The timing of things actually worked out, with COVID and everything, it gave me some time to focus strictly on Lola Pilar.

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What are some successful partnerships you’ve had?

A recent partnership I did was with ANA (All Nippon Airways). I have an art dealer/liaison who works with local Hawaii artists, and she helps to make connections with Japanese companies who are interested in our work. It’s really cool that I’m able to break into the Japanese market, it will be interesting and fun to see what happens next.

Can you describe your process of how you create the arrangements that you photograph?

I use my own backyard to find flowers, leaves, or fruit for my photos. I also ask friends, post on social media, search in Chinatown or visit local farms. Sometimes I forage for a particular hibiscus or certain leaf I have in mind, other times I will just go out scouting and see what is out there. A lot of the time I’ll see something I haven’t used before or a flower that only blooms in the winter. Often I will go on a walk in a different neighborhood or get in my car and go for a drive, and I’ll end up seeing a beautiful flower I haven’t seen before. So, it's just kind of like scouting

and always having your eyes open to new plants. I’ve always loved plants and flowers, but since doing my photography - I feel I’ve opened a whole new world. My perspective has changed and now I notice things I haven’t seen before - details of a palm tree, or little seeds or baby flowers – and in my head, I’m thinking, “Oh I can’t wait to take a photograph of this!”

Where else do you find inspiration?

I find inspiration everywhere – everything from architecture to fashion, to watching movies and looking at magazines. Consuming things. Traveling and seeing new places. Hanging out with friends and family – all of this inspires me.

With how busy you are, do you find any time to surf?

I definitely don't surf as much as I used to. If I could, I would surf every day. I need to start making it a weekly goal to go at least once a week.

Your pen name is Lola Pilar, what is the meaning behind the name?

I wanted to come up with a meaningful name – and “Lola Pilar” is one that honors both my own grandma and my husband’s grandma. Both of our grandmas loved flowers and worked with flowers in different ways.

My husband is half Filipino, and “Lola” means grandma in Filipino. His grandma’s first name was “Pilar” – so the name “Lola Pilar” really stuck with me.

Castles is my favorite on the East Side - even though it's tiny and it hardly ever breaks, but when it does, it's the best. When I get motivated to drive to town, I love going to Rockpiles or somewhere in Waikiki.

Who are some other local Hawaii artists that inspire you?

Mark Kushimi, Susanna Cromwell, and Jim Russi (his work was always an inspiration as a kid because he shot for Roxy and Quiksilver – and growing up as a girl surfer in Hawaii, my friends and I were obsessed with Roxy.)

You can find Lola Pilar Hawaii prints – and now pouches, scarves, and pareos via her website @ www.lolapilarhawaii.com or on Oahu at Roberta Oaks, The Honolulu Museum of Art Shop, Olive in Kailua, GreenRoom Gallery, Lauren Roth in Kailua, and House of Mana Up in Waikiki.

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By Mike Latronic Photos Mike Latronic and Alex Heil

Textured Waves is a collective founded by three African American female surfers to promote the sport of surfing toward women of color and underrepresented demographics.

The three founders Chelsey Woody, Danielle Black Lyons and Martina Duran visited the Hawaiian Islands on their mission of inclusion and salt-water inspiration.

Danielle Black Lyons, co-founder states, "Two years ago, we met up with Martina at her home in Honolulu and she introduced Chelsea and I to her surf community. It was a beautiful gathering of Black and brown women and we connected over our shared passion for the ocean. It was a retreat of sorts, which birthed the idea to one day intentionally gather a larger group of women of color surfers to share waves, experiences and knowledge.” COVID halted the execution of those plans for a time, but on November 4-8, Textured Waves held its first women’s "Co Wash" surf retreat in Waikiki. Black Lyons, adds, “I can’t help but reflect on what a historical, full circle event this was. Our vision came to life, women of all shades riding the waves. I am incredibly grateful to all the amazing women (and men) who attended, joined our free surfs, taught lessons, gave land blessings and supported this movement. Special thanks to my fellow founders who collectively curated a socially conscious experience that uplifted Hawaiian culture, and placed ocean safety and stewardship at the forefront."

Chelsey Woody

Danielle Black Lyons

Martina Duran

Photo Alex Heil

Photos Alex Heil

Martina Duran, another founder who lives on Oahu adds, “The majority of our participants live in areas where coastal access and ocean knowledge is often and historically hard to obtain. This retreat provided a space where, regardless of social standing, ocean and aquatic spaces were easy to access. The necessary knowledge needed to safely play in the ocean was provided by what we consider the true hosts of the sport, Hawaiians. It was important that the teaching came from native and local voices. We opened the retreat with a Hawaiian blessing and opening ceremony that included a history lesson on Hawaiian culture and customs and how to be a low impact visitor to the islands. Before our first paddle out to Canoes we met and spoke with local surfers of the lineup for an official welcome and explanation of behavior and etiquette in the lineup. The local surfers we met not only called Waikiki their home, but their mothers, grandmothers and ancestors called Waikiki their home and they themselves are currently raising their children in and around the waters of Waikiki. It was a beautiful modeling of how to maintain respect and safety of the lineup while maintaining a welcoming and inclusive atmosphere”

Chelsey Woody Photo Mike Latronic

Co Founder Chelsea Woody adds, “It was important to us to center influential Hawaiian voices, inviting them to share their knowledge and stories with our attendees. We are so grateful to our guest speakers Malia Kaleoppa and Lala Thomas, shaper Hoku Kupihea and Duane Desoto of Nakamakai who helped enrich this experience and share their perspectives.

Making this retreat accessible to our community was a priority for us as a collective and we could not have done this without our brand partners that helped us send 5 scholarship recipients to the retreat. We hope our attendees take away something bigger than just a renewed love and respect for the ocean but apply this experience to other arenas in their life. “

Danielle Black Lyons Photo Mike Latronic

STEEP AND DEEP RETURNS Anyone who has ever surfed Banzai Pipeline, or even witnessed it’s awesome power and beauty, knows all too well what the words “Steep and Deep,” represent. Pipeline, arguably the most photographed wave on the planet has been home base for many events. One such event, in Memory of hard charging surfer Sion Milosky is the “Steep and Deep,” Pipeline photo challenge.

After a long pause the event returns now in it’s 6th year. The Sion Milosky Foundation and Volcom present this year’s annual Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge.

The Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge awards the best shot at Pipeline and or Backdoor for the 2021/22 winter season. One surfer and one photographer will each receive $2500. And beside serious bragging rights, and to put icing on the cake, that winning image is slated to grace the cover of a future edition of Freesurf Magazine.

The challenge will run for 3 months this winter season. January 1 2021 and ends April 1 2022.

For more information on the event and registration please go to Livelikesion.com and @Steepanddeeppipeline Sion Milosky Photos Brian Bielmann

NATE TYLER | BORN ON CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST CHECK OUT MORE AT 805BEER.COM

Mikey O’Shaughnessy Photo: Tai Van Dyke

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Barron Mamiya Photo: Brian Bielmann

Matt Meola Photo: Dayanidhi Das

Shion Crawford Photo: Mike Latronic 52

Francisco Porcella Photo: Tai Van Dyke

Unidentified Photo: Mike Harris

Billy Kemper Photo: Mike Latronic

Benji Brand Photo: Brent Bielmann

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32nd Annual

Vissla / Lopez / Hi-Tech Surfbash

It was a Young brother and a Boverman sister act at the 32nd annual Vissla / Lopez / Hi-Tech Surfbash, Saturday and Sunday at Hookipa Beach Park.

Cody Young, of Makawao, claimed the open men while younger brother, Levi, won the boys 16-17 and boys U18, and was third in open men.

Haylee Boverman took thetogirls 14-15 while younger sister Shia took her first-ever Hawaii Surfing Association event, U14. in stride. “I “I was originally just going help out and Levi took the lossthe to girls his brother do some judging,” Cody said. “Then Levi was For Cody, it was pitallstop at home between talking smack to ame week, so I decided to France two weeks ago, and leaves for Oahu sign up.” Then Cody laughed, “So I could beattoday qualification him and shutcontest him up”.to make the 2022 World Surf Kidding aside, Cody is impressed with his 17-year-old sibling, a senior at King Kekaulike.

“He’s gotten so much better. His surfing has elevated so much in just this last year. He’s landing full rotations, he has a lot of power and really grew into his body.”

A lot of people are comparing my brother and I because we look so similar, and we surf so similar, and are kind of at similar levels.”

Both are 5’10” and at 170 pounds, Cody is 15 pounds heavier and five years older than Levi.

He’s also has a little more contest knowledge.

“I’m stoked I beat him,” Cody said. “I think I outsmarted him. I used my years of competitive experience against him a little bit.”

Levi Young

thought I was ready, but I guess not yet. I’ve World Surfing League events. He competed in always wanted to compete against him. He’s to prep for the Haleiwa Challenger, the final amazing at what he does. I just try to follow League tour. his footsteps and try to be better.”

For the Boverman sisters of Paia, the twin wins may have been the result of surfing for nearly three months in the Mainland with hanai brother, Rafi Neri, who won the boys 14-15. They spent a month in California during which Haylee and Neri competed in the Surfing America nationals. Then father, Kale Boverman, took all three to surf in Nicaragua for another month.

Then it was back to Maui before leaving for the National Scholastic Surfing Association nationals in Huntington Beach, California.

Neri explained what happened on the way to nationals. “The minute the plane started moving, we saw a notification that nationals got canceled because of the oil spill.”

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VIS S LA / LOPEZ / HI-TECH S URFBA S H The nationals were moved back to November 16 so the Bovermans and Neri had another three weeks to train on the Mainland.

Haylee felt mainland surfing really helped her. “It definitely did, just surfing that much and getting that much more practice in. Hookipa is my homebreak so I surf here all the time. But surfing all the other waves, learning how to do different turns on different sections helps out.”

Maldives

Haylee was thrilled with Shia’s win.”I’m so happy for her. She’s never won an HSA event. It’s so cool we both won, even Rafi because we’re like a family. It’s so cool we all won.”

This will be Shia’s inaugural national competition. “I’m really excited because it’s my first time doing it. Just getting in the jerseys and competing with the other girls was really fun today.”

Nori Liotta was also a double winner. She repeated as the open women champion and claimed the girls U18 division.

“The wave were firing,” Liotta said. “Just a great day. I just love those waves at Hookipa that push all the way through.”

Pacifc Islands

Indo

Kaden Awad, who won the boys U12 last year, moved up and won boys 12-13. Other winners included: Kona Yamada (boys and girls U10), Bode Davis (boys U12), Faith Lennox (open para), and Ty Simpson-Kane (open longboard).

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Side note: After the first day of competition, a park ranger would not let John Willard, the contest director, spend the night as security guard for the contest equipment. The next morning, the equipment that was left on site was missing, nowhere to be found. John was able to arrange for back-up equipment to finish the second day of competition, but Hawaii Surfing Association-Maui lost thousands of dollars of equipment. The Maui community rallied and in a few hours raised enough money to replace everything that was stolen. One of the first to come to the beach, after hearing about the theft, was local boy Imaikalani Devault, who dropped off a personal check for $8,500. It was an awesome display of generosity by one of Maui’s favorite sons!

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THE INVENTION OF PURE FUN The Bodyboard and Tom Morey’s Lasting Legacy of Free-Thinking Wave Riding

The bodyboard is one of Tom Morey’s most enduring legacies. We caught up with some of the legends of the sport, reflecting on the heyday of the sport, and Tom’s long-standing contribution.

MIKE STEWART I first met Tom in 78 or 79 when I found out he lived in Kona. His research and development center was there. He agreed to hire me and I would clean up and organize the lower floor. I would also test some of the early prototype boards. It was a new way to experience riding a wave. A cushion of blunt cut flexible foam allowed for speed and control yet the various energies of the wave face reverberated through the craft and could be sensed through your entire body. More than anything I believe he recognized this sensation and wanted to share it.

It was fun.

It would also become a device that would allow me to explore the vast realms of surf and how my imagination could be applied to it. Somehow I am still enthralled with it all as there continues to be new frontiers to explore with waves and what the boards are capable of.

For the most part Bodyboarders have prioritized fun over social status. I believe this free spirited approach has recently overflowed into all types of wave riding and riders. From my perspective this is one of the best things that could happen for everyone that rides waves regardless of the craft they choose.

BEN SEVERSON I grew up riding waves in Waikiki so I was exposed to all sorts of wave craft. I got my first surfboard at age 8 and made my first paipo board around 10-11 years old. What drew me into bodyboarding was tuberiding.

I don't think any of us could have anticipated the impact Tom's invention would have on the wave riding community. For me, I was in the right place at the right time and just followed my passion - riding waves on any type of board. It just so happened I was able to make a living riding a bodyboard rather than a surfboard.

Bodyboarding and riding waves has given me directly or indirectly everything meaningful in my life!

CHRIS WON TALOA My first experience with bodyboarding was when I was 8 1/2 years old. The people I was doing it with came from all different types of backgrounds rich, poor, black, white, brown. It united us as children because we didn’t have to worry about the fiberglass of a surfboard busting our faces open. We could smash into each other like a crash derby and have a great time all day long. Knowing that we could all have fun together no matter what, that’s what kept me bodyboarding for so long.

Tom Morey, was someone who spoke highly of everybody. He came from a very different mindset than the people I grew up with. His creativity and openness to how life is had a deep lasting and positive effect on how I approach the unique challenges in my life. It kept me focussed and true to my causes. At the same time, thinking of him, humbled my approach to a lot of areas in my life. At this moment, his ways are still in effect as I approach new chapters in my life.

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JACK “DA RIPPA” LINDHOLM It was 1974, when the craft made its way to me - I was 13 at Sandy Beach Shorebreak. I was focused on handboarding at the time. Inspired by Primo Richards, I was also a paipo boarder (prone and kneeriding), and a bodysurfer. Like Gerry Lopez was The King of Pipeline, Primo Richards was The King of Sandy Beach. Primo rode his homemade paipo prone, kneeriding, and standup. And I dabbled in the canvas inflatable (all prone). So there I was, handboarding Sandys shorebreak. And I see my friend paddle out on a bodyboard… Boogie Board. Riley Smith.

He was a regular at Sandys. But he also lived on the Big Island.

He knew Tom over there in Kona. And he brought the board to Sandys to let the local talent try it. He let me try it. I let him try my handboards. The first Boogie I rode was buoyant, soft (user friendly), and fast. That’s what got me hooked. Totally sold. And after enduring the punishment of hard boards, with the surf bumps on my knees, not to mention hitting other people with my paipo, how could I resist this gentle functional craft? Bought the kit soon after at Surfboards Hawaii. From that point on, Riley was a handboarder, and I was a Boogie Boarder.

JP PATTERSON Tom loved love and hated hate. Few people truly Live Aloha like Tom did. He portrayed Aloha in everything he did and he did it effortlessly! I'm trying everyday to be like Tom. Have Fun!, Push the limits of everything and LIVE ALOHA! If that is all we ever learn from Tom, He will be laughing in delight for eternity!

Tom Morey's Motto for his first company was "For the fun of it!"

I think like most humans, we were looking for fun and maybe a pack/tribe to join. A bunch of class clowns having fun and pushing each other to be their best. We traveled together to the North Shore or to foreign countries sharing expenses and meals.

We'd compete like tigers for raw meat then go have beers and a fire on the beach. A Boogie Brotherhood! A Camaraderie that has lasted to this day!

Being part of a group of underdogs trying to have fun, make a little money and surf everyday for a living - was fantastic! We were doing many things the Stand-up surfers were doing so not really uncharted territory. Many Hard Boarders would give us negative vibes but I think that made us try harder to be gentlemen in the surf. It was cool when our peers on hard boards gave us encouragement. Shawn Tomson, Gerry Lopez, Johnny Boy Gomes,

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The Ocean Cleanup: Working to Eradicate Plastic from the Ocean

By Rebecca Parsons

One of the biggest threats to the health of our oceans and its inhabitants is plastic pollution. Over 5 million pieces of plastic currently litter our oceans, with approximately 8 million additional tons making their way into the ocean each year. Trash regularly accumulates in one of five ocean garbage patches, where it circulates and breaks down, becoming more difficult to clean up and posing a bigger threat to wildlife.

In 2013, the Ocean Cleanup was founded by Dutch inventor Boyan Slat, with a goal to eradicate plastic from the world’s oceans. In 2017, he unveiled a contraption that he believed would do just that. His plan was to begin with the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, the largest of the five gyres.

One of the greatest challenges of cleaning the garbage patches is that the plastic is diluted and spans millions of square kilometers. In order to get rid of the plastic, the first step of Slat’s plan involves concentrating the plastic.

First, the non-profit would use computational models that factor in ocean currents to target regions of the garbage patch with the highest concentration of plastic. Next, using a twothousand-foot floating plastic boom with a geotextile skirt, they would create artificial coastlines to guide the plastic into retention zones.

Once the retention system is full, it would then be taken aboard a vessel, emptied, and then put back into place to continue cleaning. From there, the containers of plastic would be transported to shore where they would be recycled into tangible plastic products.

In October of 2021, three years after launching its first cleanup system, the Ocean Cleanup presented proof of their technology in the form of trash collected from the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. The successful harvest of ocean plastic officially ended the testing campaign, allowing the organization to shift their focus to implementing larger scale cleanup systems.

“I am proud of the team and supporters for their dedication and perseverance that brought us to this moment,” says Slat.

“While it’s just the tip of the iceberg, these kilograms are the most important ones we will ever collect, because they are proof that cleanup is possible. We still have a lot of things to iron out, but one thing we know now is that, with a small fleet of these systems, we can clean this up.”

In addition to the cleanup operations, the Ocean Cleanup is also in the process of developing their next system (System 003), which will be three times larger than the previous system. Through the new system, the organization hopes to reduce 50% of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch every five years while simultaneously working to prevent plastic from entering the ocean via rivers. The Ocean Cleanup’s ultimate goal is to put themselves out of business by removing 90% of floating ocean plastic and realizing a future where plastic no longer pollutes our oceans.

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S TUF F WE LI K E

Salty Furniture / Kai Lenny Coffee Table While were on planet Kai we may as well tell you NOT to get him and his gal a coffee table for the baby shower gift. Been there. Done that.

Kai Lenny has partnered with Salty, a furniture and home décor brand founded by ocean lovers who want to bring their way of living into the home. To Kai, surfing is more than just a sport, it’s a lifestyle that has influenced and impacted his entire life as well as plenty of other ocean lovers. Check out his collection including the signature “Kai Lenny Coffee Table.” We want one!

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Freesurf Magazine presents Waikiki Beach Gathering's

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Single parents, kids, and anyone who would love to learn how to surf is invited for our monthly event!

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I N D USTRY NOTES J os h M on iz Inj ury Update We’re happy to report that Josh Moniz went through a successful surgery and had quite the support team with him in Portugal while he recovered in the hospital. He left Portugal with a new perspective on life and is now back home in Hawaii doing everything he can to find comfort and be on his way to a speedy recovery. It’s amazing and inspiring to see his people be there for him and to see his gratitude for his support team, sending positive vibes and a lot of aloha to Josh and his people.

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Congrats to Kai and Molly!

Kai Lenny takes the cake with perhaps the most epic and overwhelmingly appropriate baby gender reveal as he drops in on a bomb at Pe’ahi on opening day. His lady, Molly Payne, thought of the idea to light off a pink flare while mid-ride, revealing that they are expecting twin girls! Huge congratulations are in order to Kai and Molly as they begin this journey to starting a family.

VO LCO M P ICKS U P MA KA NA PA NG Volcom has welcomed Makana Pang to their ohana, giving him “the stone” and supporting how #TrueToThis he is. It’s no secret that Makana is already an absolute hammer in the water and is only going up from here with this support. If you haven’t seen it yet, check out his film “Commit” that premiered in Oahu during November and is now available for streaming online. Congrats to Makana, we’re all excited to see what comes from him this winter season.

In her hometown on the island of Oahu, Carissa Moore, is a name synonymous with greatness.

The Hawaiian-born, 5x world champion and Olympic Gold Medalist, is widely recognized as an inspiration to many and never fails to continuously pay respect to her roots, her ancestors, and all those who have paved the way for herself and future generations.

She never fails to walk with humbleness and is always a light in her community, despite any challenges she’s facing. We couldn’t be more proud and happy to see this hometown hero standing next to the legendary, Duke Kahanamoku, on a new mural by Kamea Hadar located in the heart of her hometown.

No one deserves this recognition more, bringing complete and total honor to Hawaii, which is why it’s also no surprise she made the cover of The Red Bulletin’s, December issue- Heroes. She surfs from the heart, inspires through competition and her non-profit, and she is the people’s champion. Congratulations to Carissa on her overwhelmingly successful year, we are too excited to see what she does in 2022.

WS L S U R F ER S FACE T RAV E L C HA L L E NG E S WITH VACC I N E MA N DATE S While the World Surf League has not yet announced any type of vaccine mandate for any part of its organization, it’s pretty obvious that any unvaccinated surfers wishing to compete on the World Tour this season are going to face some challenges around necessary travel requirements. Australia has announced strict vaccine mandates for anyone entering the country, no exceptions. While we all wish covid would make a permanent exit from our lives, it’s looking like surfers are going to face significant challenges and may be prohibited from entering certain countries without proof of full vaccination status, which will likely hinder their shot at the title.

NORTH S HORE M ENEHUNE S URF CONTES T The 44th Annual North Shore Menehune Surfing Championships just went down in Haleiwa, except this year it took a new form and went virtual! From the footage we’ve seen, it’s safe to say that the Next North Shore Generation is looking bright. Grateful for the sponsors that made it possible to stoke out these promising groms and give the people something to talk about, we’re already looking forward to seeing what next year's talent brings!

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I ND USTRY NOTES

ARTIsT S E R IE s L IM ITE D E D ITION c ap s u le c ol l ec tion

Kona Brewing Hawaii is proud to partner with Artist/Designer Greg Chinn who gives a fresh take to our Longboard Island Lager and Big Wave Golden Ale labels. As a Kailua boy and surfer himself, he was inspired to showcase two of Kona Brewing’s most iconic brands. The capsule sticker series created by Greg pays homage to Hawaii’s timeless surf heritage. An array of reinterpreted classic surf silhouettes combined with a handcrafted look and a considered color palette, the artwork is an ode to growing up in Hawaii and a visual representation of his childhood remembrances of island life.

The tonal impressionistic oil painting reflects Greg’s love of surfing and the beauty of catching waves. He brings this abstraction sensibility into the sticker illustration style by using modern shapes creating a bold, contemporary graphic statement.

$1.00 FOR EVERY ONE OF THESE ARTIST SERIES STICKERS WILL BE DONATED TO TWO LOCAL NON-PROFITS HERE IN HAWAII. OUTRIGGER DUKE KAHANAMOKU FOUNDATION & HO‘OMA‘A FOUNDATION

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Generally when you strip things down to their basic elements it simplifies things. But going sans-board, inflation vest, etc. at macking Jaws could by no means be called the easy route. Kalani Lattanzi, on what many are calling the biggest and best wave ever bodysurfed.

Photo: Tai Van Dyke