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F R E E

P A R K I N G

“John John Florence grew up watching the best surfers, Kelly, Andy, Bruce, and Jamie surf Backdoor and Pipe. He studied them and grew up and now he’s all of his heroes rolled up into one,’ said FreeSurf Photo Editor Brian Bielmann. “This day was the day of the year and John caught the best 10 waves of the day, how is that possible? All I know is, now, he’s the guy that gets everyone amped to watch. ‘Backdoor is pumping and John Johns out,’ nothing gets you more excited on a winter day than hearing those words.”

Photo - Brian Bielmann

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TA B L E

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O F

C O N T E N T S

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Free Parking

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Editor's Note

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Vans Triple Crown of Surfing

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Pua DeSoto

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Aperture

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Working Vacation

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Surf Art

74

Faith Lennox

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Industry Notes

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Last Look

Josh Moniz

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TA B L E

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C O N T E N T S

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Maldives

Vans Triple Crown of Surfing It's here! We break it down.

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Pacifc Islands

Pua DeSoto

Pua Desoto has her heart and spirit invested in that ocean

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Aperture

Indo

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Curated moments from the North Shore

58 Working Vacation Doing the Hard Yards in Mexican Perfection

H Y P E R F R E A K B O A R D S H O RT S H I O N C R AW F O R D O’NEILL INC . 2021 | US .ONEILL .COM

THE ULTIMATE P E R F O R M A N CE BOA R DS HO RT S H O P T H E H Y P E R F R E A K B O A R D S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

Going BIG!

By Andrew Oliver

For the last 30 years, to the wider world, the “North Shore Season” had become synonymous with the Vans Triple Crown. This was when surfing’s international elite converged on the North Shore, with the three events of Hale’iwa, Sunset, and Pipeline, serving as tent poles to envelope the merry circus. The annual routine became ingrained into the rhythm of life on the North Shore. More than just an indicator of winter’s arrival, “The Six Weeks on the North Shore” as it became known, for all intents and purposes was the “The Season.” Naturally, for those who call the “Seven Mile Miracle” home, life on the North Shore is defined by far more than a series of surf events, and for some residents it is anything but that. But, it can’t be denied that the very fabric of the North Shore is entwined with its world class waves and the waveriders that have been drawn to them for decades. The North Shore is our Mecca, and all the craziness that comes with the annual global pilgrimage to its shores has and likely always will be, a defining source of our culture.

The global pandemic had pulled out the rug from under us all, and its effect on the production of international surf events was no different. A giant question mark hovered over the future of what “The Season” would look like. Would that annual gathering of the international surf tribe ever return to the North Shore? Luckily it has, and in a whole new form. The six weeks that used to encapsulate the major events of the season have now been doubled. Kicking off in late November with the Challenger Series event at Hale’iwa, followed by a month of the Vans Digital Triple Crown, and ending with back-to-back Championship Tour events at Pipeline and Sunset in February. Six weeks of some of the most high intensity surf action, are now twelve. What will this extended residency of the world's best surfers, pushing themselves daily, in some of the most challenging surf on the planet produce? New performance barriers? Radical equipment innovations? A surge in expats? It is hard to predict what the outcome will be as there has likely never been a gathering in the history of surfing of this size, concentration of talent, and for this extended of a duration. But, with all of these elements combined things are bound to explode - stay tuned!

Photo: Brian Bielmann

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Keanu Asing

( N E W S T O R E LO C AT I O N ! )

SHOWDOWN FOR THE CROWN BEGINS! DECEMBER 21 – JANUARY 21 For over 35 years The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the definitive three-event series on Oahu’s North Shore, has been the venue of some of the most dramatic and groundbreaking performances in competitive surfing history.

Held at the three iconic breaks of the seven-mile miracle, Hale’iwa, Sunset, and Pipeline, the Triple Crown is an unrivaled test of a surfer’s grit and determination as they must perform in three of the most powerful and challenging waves on the planet.

In 2020, Vans took the radical step of introducing a new digital format for the series, this evolution allowed a diverse field of competitors just over a month to accumulate their two best rides at each break, submitting footage of their waves for a WSL Judging Panel review, and awarding both overall champions and winners of each venue. “This was one of my favorite formats to surf in competition. It allowed for so much more freedom, and you’re really going for broke on every single wave,” said John John Florence, who claimed his fourth Vans Triple Crown championship title of his career with this win.

“The digital format pushed the level of surfing a lot, and to see all these surfers pushing at that kind of level at Haleiwa, Sunset & Pipe—it was really fun.”

Additionally, the 2020 Digital Vans Triple Crown of Surfing saw a welcome return of female competitors for the first time in a decade. “Being a Hawaiian surfer, especially a female Hawaiian surfer, it’s always been a dream of mine to compete in the Vans Triple Crown,” said Carissa Moore, who earned her first Vans Triple Crown Title during 2020’s digital debut of the event. “It’s a coveted

3 ICONIC WAVES. 2 CLIPS FROM EACH. 1 CHAMPION.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

HALE’IWA Hawaiian Pro, Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park

“One of the things I really like about the event is the more time you spend in the water, the better clips you get. So it makes it a little more bluecollar,” said Torrey Meister, pictured here on a Hale’iwa Monster. Meister was one of the stand out performers of 2020 who we’ll be looking to build on their Vans Digital Triple Crown Experience. Photo - Brian Bielmann

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of what's possible at one of the most challenging power waves in the world. In a testament to how high the performance bar was raised from the onset, John John’s groundbreaking Hale’iwa entry that earned him a 29.4 out of a possible 30, was one of the first submissions of the entire event and was a part of a flurry of high-scoring entries from competitors who capitalized on that opening swell. “Seeing John John surf Hale’iwa was pretty incredible,” said Torrey Meister, who earned his two Hale’iwa scores during the same sessions. “The performance that he did out there. I mean, he put on a clinic at Hale’iwa. It raised the level for everyone.”

t’s no secret that in recent years Pipeline has been the primary focus when the international surf show comes to town. Last year, however, Hale’iwa was the unlikely star of the show. A few key factors thrust this supporting actor to center stage, first and foremost it was firing, equally important, it did so early in the event waiting period, and the ensuing performances in these early sessions set the tone for the remainder of the event.

The Hale’iwa sessions lived up to the potential of the open digital format. You had the very best performers, on the best swell of the year, racking in countless hours of watertime, and pushing the boundaries 20

While there are no guarantees as to what will be on offer in terms of waves this year, we now have an idea of how hard these competitors can push it out at Hale’iwa. Without the time constraints of a traditional 30-minute heat, the surfers are ramping the risk factor way up. And there is no shortage of risk at Hale’iwa - raging current, notorious cleanup sets, and the infamous near bone dry “Toilet Bowl” end section. But, high risk means high reward. If there was ever any doubt, be assured, Hale’iwa is a must see in terms of Vans Triple Crown action.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

North Shore local BettyLou Sakura Johnson is at the forefront of a young wahine surge who are making their presence known in the surf world. Still technically groms, Johnson and her peers Luana Silva and Gabriela Bryan, have made a major push on the WSL Challenger series this year, and will no doubt carry that momentum into the Vans Triple Crown. Photo - Brian Bielmann

title being a Hawaiian and to showcase your skill on some of the most powerful waves in all of the world, especially in our backyard. I really enjoyed the challenge.”

The Format One of the wonderful aspects of the Vans Triple Crown, and the digital format, in particular, is having the spotlight shine on the other jewels of the coast.

While the traditional format of the event allowed for 10 day waiting periods at each venue, with at least three full days of competition to execute each event. The digital format allows competitors to cherry-pick the best sessions of the four weeks at all three spots. Some of the days, when the waves were firing competitors were putting in sessions at multiple venues in one day. While this loose format raised the bar in both the quality of waves and performance,

Photo - Brian Bielmann

To Note Hale’iwa is the only venue that really offers opportunities to take it to the air. This means aerial specialists like Eli Hanneman and Erin Brooks could have an extra ace in their sleeve to drop massive scores on a single air maneuver. With virtually unlimited tries to land an NBD, look for this to come into play if the waves don’t go massive this season.

San Clemente’s Griffin Colapinto was one of the few surfers to rival John John Florence's meteoric performance in 2020, with top finishes at all three breaks and some of the most remarkable rides of the entire North Shore season. Colapinto is a previous winner of the traditional Vans Triple Crown, and will clearly be one to look out for in 2021.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

In 2020, Kauai’s Malia Manuel spent a significant amount of time on Oahu’s North Shore, and was a standout everytime she paddle out. Much like Griffin Colapinto, while Manuel didn't walk away with the win - day in and day out she was one of the very best in the water. This consistency could translate into a Vans Triple Crown win in 2021.

Photo - Brian Bielmann Photo - Brian Bielmann

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SUNSET World Cup of Surfing, Sunset Beach

The undisputed champion, John John Florence, went on a historic tear in 2020 - winning all three venues - en route to his Vans Triple Crown of Surfing title. His waves, especially at Hale’iwa and Sunset, set a new ceiling to what's possible in performance big wave surfing. Photo - Ryan Miller

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Hale’iwa was the spot du'jour last year, but there's still a lot left in the tank in terms of what Sunset Beach is capable of producing. Last year the majority of top scores came from combinations of big carves without any real barrel time of note. Don't be surprised if we see Sunset’s “Inside Bowl'' offer up some cavernous tubes to cap off the competitors' rides. WSL Head Judge Pritamo Ahrendt noted that some of the aspects unique to Sunset are its, “really big, steep, and heavy take-offs and its really challenging barrel rides.” Two characteristics that didn’t come into play last year.

unset Beach is another venue that benefits from the extended waiting period of the digital format. Breaking hundreds of yards from shore, Sunset is one of the most exposed breaks to both wind and swell, and has been challenging big wave surfers for generations.

With top performance in mind, competitors are keen to pick the most favorable conditions in the event window allowing for massive turns on Sunset’s open faces and steep pits on the notorious “Inside Bowl.”

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Also, while Hale’iwa tends to favor frontsiders, Sunset is a great venue for the goofyfoots to display their backside attack, as was demonstrated by last year’s Sunset Champion, Bronte Macaulay.

Groomed in the powerful waves of Western Australia, Macaulay is more than comfortable in waves of consequence and was able to attack the lip with her vertical approach, a strong contrast to her fronthand competitors' more linear carves.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

The beauty of the digital version of the Vans Triple Crown is that it brings together freesurfers, WSL stars, and local heavy-hitters, like Shayden Pacarro pictured here destroying a Sunset lip, all worthy competitors vying for the crown. Photo - Mike Latronic

it provided the seasoned competitors with its own set of unique challenges, namely with stamina. “I was surfing for hours and hours at Hale’iwa, Then I came in, and we’d looked at Sunset, and there was no one out.

So, I was like, ‘Ok, I have to go out now.’ recalled John John Florence.

“It was, by far, the most tiring event I’ve ever surfed.”

The second challenge, being that this was a video submission-based event, was ensuring that your waves were captured. With the proliferation of personal filmers, flocks of drones, and GoPros aplenty, it’s hard to imagine that a wave goes unrecorded during the North Shore season. However, with the sheer volume of action

Photo - Brian Bielmann

To Note Sunset Beach was first and foremost a big-wave spot, and that may be something to keep in mind in terms of equipment choice. “The tendency in surfing today is to ride as short of a board as possible, in as large of surf as you can muster. Guys are pretty much swimming themselves into waves these days and then figuring it out at the last second as they free fall in,” said surf coach and Sunset Beach local, Rainos Hayes. “But, it's funny because I feel Sunset is still kind of a three-turn wave. So, whatever puts you on the right waves, to make the right size turns, in the right three places, we'll probably net you a good to excellent score.”

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In recent years, Billy Kemper has been one of the most dominant competitors on the North Shore. His explosive surfing matches the power of the North Shore pound for pound.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

WA’s Bronte Macaulay proved it possible for goofyfoots to win on the challenging rights of Sunset Beach by attacking the lip with backside turns like these. Photo - Brian Bielmann

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PIPELINE Pipe Masters, Pipeline / Backdoor

The infamous peak at Pipe/Backdoor offers a myriad of routes - Left, Right, 2nd Reef roll in, from behind the peak - but whichever direction you choose it’s gonna be steep. Griffin Colapinto, weightless at Backdoor. Photo - Brian Bielmann

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many variables that collide to make Pipeline as complex and marvelous as it is. A lot of the time, the best strategy for success out there is patience.

ipeline is and always has been the golden standard, a universal metric for which all other surf spots are measured against. No break even comes close to the frequency in which it is used to be compared against. How many times have you heard a wave compared to Pipe?

The most remarkable thing about it, is after all of these years, and all of the waves discovered around the globe, the hype and the comparisons still ring true. As top-shelf as it is, Pipeline doesn’t always lend its best version of itself to the traditional contest format. Even on days when Pipe is on, it will go through different moods throughout that day, as the tide or wind changes, or as the swell pulses or wanes. There are so

Of the three jewels of the Vans Triple Crown, Pipeline benefits most from the extended competition window. “It’s interesting because you're not focused on just getting a medium score to ‘build a house,’ I’ll sit there for four hours until a good one comes,” said John John Florence.

“It’s all or nothing on the best wave of the day.” A new format takes some time to adapt to, so a lot of the competitors will be relying on their experience from last year to maximize their scoring.

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Last year marked a welcome return of the women to the Vans Triple Crown, and the first time inclusion of Pipeline to the Women’s schedule. Along with the Women’s Event being included at the WSL Pipe Masters, we are in the midst of a female competitive renaissance at the infamous break. It will be amazing to see both young chargers, like last year’s event winner Moana Jones, and seasoned veterans, like reigning Vans Triple Crown Champ Carrisa Moore, take advantage of this new platform and push the boundaries at Pipeline. “It really pushed me to get out there on days when I would normally just paddle out at Hale’iwa,” said Carissa Moore. “I’m excited to try to get out there a little bit more now.”

Photo - Brian Bielmann

While John John whisked up all the glory last year, it’s well-known that talent in the Florence clan runs deep, especially at Pipeline. Plus, there's nothing better than beating your brother at his own game. So, look for Ivan and Nathan Florence, pictured here, to keep the family rivalry interesting. Photo - Brian Bielmann

that went down, beginnings of, or entire rides were missed by personal filmers. There were many evenings spent by athletes desperately trying to track down footage of their waves to get them uploaded by the submission deadline. In a nod to the sense of community shared by all surfers, while this was a contest, everyone was genuinely helpful in sharing footage, even if it was with a competitor.

To Note Of all three venues, Pipe has that X-factor, where it’s possible for any serious charger who gets the right wave to lock in an excellent score. At Sunset and Hale’iwa where performance surfing makes up a majority of the scoreline, powerhouses like John John and Carissa are going to be tough to beat. In fact last year’s Women’s Pipeline Winner Moana Jones was the only non-Championship Tour surfer to win a venue. Look for Pipeline to continue to dish up surprises this year.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

The Venues “The Vans Triple Crown is three world-class venues that are all exceptionally high risk. And, whoever is able to risk it for that month, comes out on top. It shows who is ready for the real deal. It takes a lot of commitment to win the Vans Triple Crown.

You definitely have to be all in.” Rainos Hayes, former Vans Triple Crown competitor, and respected surf coach.

Photo - Brian Bielmann

Local girl, Moana Jones Wong was the only non-Championship Tour surfer to win an event in last years Vans Triple Crown (men or womens). That's a huge testament to her connection with Pipeline and Jones will be favored to defend her title in 2021. Photo Brian Bielmann

Young phenom Eli Hanneman has long had the performance game on lock, but he has steadily proven that he is a force to be reckoned with in the gnarly stuff too. Eli, throwing his hat in the game.

Photo - Brent Bielmann

Photo - Brian Bielmann

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Puamakamaekuikahanohaweo Maunalei Ka’aihue DeSoto Story by Rebecca Parsons Photos: Mike Latronic

“The precious descendent that stands illuminated…”

It is often said that a woman’s heart is a deep ocean of secrets.

Having spent most of her life near the sea or in it, sixteen year old Pua Desoto has her heart and spirit invested in that ocean, and it is certainly no secret.

Pua DeSoto’s roots are firmly planted in the sea. Her father is 2010 world longboard champion Duane DeSoto and her mother Malia Ka’aihue comes from a long line of fishermen and water people, so it’s no surprise that DeSoto took to the water. Between her blood relatives and adopted family of west side surf legends, the young Hawaiian was riding waves well before she could walk.

Born and raised in Kaimuki, DeSoto caught her first wave at just five-months old with the assistance of her dad. By the time she was two, she was riding waves on her own and at three, started competing.

At eleven, DeSoto knew surfing was something she wanted to pursue professionally.

Pua spent her formative years on the south shore but always felt that the west side was home. The majority of her dad’s family lives on the west side and growing up, she spent the majority of her time there. When she was eleven, DeSoto’s family moved to the Makaha area and she truly felt she was home.

“Growing up on the west side has always been very inspiring because a lot of legends come from here,” says DeSoto. “People look down on us because of all the violence that shows up on the news but it’s actually such a good community.

It’s where most of the Hawaiian population is in the entire world.”

Inspired by legends like her father and west side locals like Aunty Rell Sunn, Uncle Buffalo Keaulana, Uncle Brian Keaulana, and Aunty Pua Mokuao, DeSoto grew up surfing and learning from the best.

Under their guidance, she began by competing in local HASA and NSSA contests when she was eleven. By age thirteen, she was doing WSL junior pros and QS events. Now, at age sixteen, DeSoto has seven national titles under her belt.

DeSoto grew up longboarding in Waikiki but when she decided to focus on surfing as a career, she switched her attention to shortboarding. Although she still competes in both, the majority of her time and training goes into shortboarding.

In 2019, DeSoto won a title in both longboarding and shortboarding at the NSSA National Championships, becoming the first person to ever win both a long and shortboard title.

In 2020, she secured two longboard and two shortboard titles. This year, she already has one longboard title under her belt but is entered in seven divisions at the 2021 NSSAs and hopes to add a few more titles to her collection. Carissa Moore currently holds the record with 11 titles, but DeSoto hopes to give the champ a run for her money and up the ante.

"I want to be one of the best but also be a role model to others and spread the Hawaiian culture."

Although DeSoto is honored to be a national champion, her proudest accomplishment to date is winning the waterwoman award at the Buffalo Big Board Surfing Classic in 2018.

Held in Makaha, the event has been around for decades and DeSoto has witnessed a number of the aunties she looks up to win the title over the years.

“Makaha means fierce,” says DeSoto. “I would describe my style as fierce and empowering.

Growing up on the west side, everybody is very fierce—that can be the bad of some but the good of most.”

Although DeSoto is a natural talent in the water, her success is the result of lots of hard work and determination. Typically, DeSoto surfs two to three times a day, with one to two land workouts sprinkled in between sessions. Although she’s worked with various coaches over the years, her dad has served as her main mentor and surf coach, while her older brother works with her on land doing tactical fitness, strength training, and balance drills.

“My dad has always been my biggest surf coach,” says DeSoto. “He’s helped me with the business side of surfing, technique/style, how to charge big waves, power turns, and take my surfing to the next level. He doesn’t walk away like some coaches do—he’s always be there.”

“From day one, Pua’s success is rooted in her commitment to training and always having fun,” says her dad, Duane DeSoto. “Her west side upbringing has given her an honest and humble perspective of what all of Hawai’i is—she has been blessed to be raised around kupuna who surf, dive, fish and everything else in the ocean.”

Outside off surfing, DeSoto has a lot on her plate. Between waves and workouts, she works on homeschool assignments for 2-3 hours a day. Alongside her family of ten, she helps run Na Kama Kai, her dad’s nonprofit that brings ocean-based safety and conservation programs directly to Hawai’i’s youth.

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Additionally, DeSoto has a knack for photography and as a kid, would sneak cameras out of people’s bags and begin snapping photos of them. She’s also a talented poet and is currently working on a poetry book that has been five years in the making.

DeSoto is also very interested in business and entrepreneurship and plans to study it in school, should it fit in with her surf schedule.

Although DeSoto is only sixteen, she has big plans. Inspired by women like Carissa Moore and Aunty Rell Sunn, DeSoto plans to make a mark on the surf world while representing her Hawaiian heritage well.

“My ultimate goal is to be an Olympic gold medalist and a world champion,” says DeSoto.

“I want to be one of the best but also be a role model to others and spread the Hawaiian culture. At the end of the day, I want to love the ocean and have a great connection with it and share that with my family and future generations.”

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While the digital format of the Vans Triple Crown does a great job of expanding the net to capture more of the performances that go down during the season, there's no way to capture it all. Per square foot, there's no stretch of coastline that produces more quality surfing than the North Shore.

You have the well-trodden spots of Rockies, Pipe, Backdoor, Off-the-Wall, Sunset, and Hale’iwa. And, then you have maniacs like Jamie O’Brien who can manufacture extraordinary moments, like these, in the most unexpected and unwelcoming of places. O’Brien, beyond full send, at Waimea Shorebreak. Photo - Brian Bielmann

Moments seem to stand still in the evening light. Photos - Brian Bielmann

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Coco Ho, perfect execution at Rocky Rights. Photo - Brian Bielmann

Eli Olson, calm on land, deadly in the water. Well actually Eli is like a quadruple balck belt or something so he’s pretty deadly anywhere.

Portrait - Brian Bielmann, Action - Ryan Miller

Barron Mamiya has the perfect balance of explosive power and grace. Styled out at Rocky Rights. Photo - Brian Bielmann

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Nature abounds on the North Shore. Inset Photos - Brian Bielmann

It’s cliche as hell, but no caption needed. Kalani Rivero. Photos - Mike Latronic

Mikey Wright has a habit of throwing all caution to the wind when it comes to surfing. At a spot as gnarly as Off-the-Wall that is usually a recipe for disaster. But if you know nothing less than full throttle, ignorance is bliss, and you make do with what you got. Photo - Brent Bielmann

It's crazy to think, but the sensation Noah Beschen is feeling at this moment cannot be replicated in any way, shape, or form. Pure, unadulterated, authentic, natural bliss.

Photo - Brent Bielmann

Photo - Brian Bielmann

Morgan Cibilic, radical control, with the focus of a man in the competitive year of his life.

Working Vacation Doing the Hard Yards in Mexican Perfection Captions by Kekoa Bacalso All photos by Trevor Moran

I

n any sport, for those who do it at the highest level, there is an unimaginable amount of work done behind the scenes between competition. Surfing is no different, especially in this day in age with the competition at the elite level being as fierce as it is. But, there are times when practice just happens to be on a world class pointbreak, and those extra hours of work aren’t quite feeling like work at all. This past summer, before the WSL event in Barra De La Cruz, Mexico, Rip Curl Team manager, and former World Tour Competitor Kekoa Bacalso spearheaded a trip with World Tour surfers Owen Wright and Morgan Cibilic, and top junior Luke Swanson to get some early training rounds in.

“We we're just coming off the event at Slater’s wave pool, everybody was in California, so we thought it was a good idea to run down to Mexico and spend some time at Barra, which would be the next event. They guys could dial in their new equipment, and hopefully we’d be scoring, really,” said Bacalso.

“Coming off the wave pool event these guys were in the best shape of their lives. It was 110 degrees for five days straight. And, they're doing 10 to 12 turns a wave. So, we thought, strike while the iron's hot. Everybody was so fine tuned at that point, let's try to keep that momentum moving forward. Instead of going back to crowded Lower Trestles and just kind of being stagnant. We saw a nice little swell on the forecast, and to be honest I don't know what swell direction it likes or anything like that, but it had some size, so we basically just charged it.”

This is the 6:30 AM roll-up. Basically the first look that you have at Barra.

There's a lot of “Oohs'' and “Aahs” and “Get me out of this car” at this point.

Barra is such a great empty canvas, it really showcases your strengths as a surfer. It was so fun to watch someone like Mikey Wright, just a balls to the wall surfer, it's all or nothing with him. He was throwing down some big old laid backs, and doing some really big airs while we're down there. The guy rips, he's a natural talent.

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It was so much fun being back down there and reliving everything, you know, the culture, the waves, the people, the food, it was really nice. I was just kind of born into this competition scene, and I still have that fire to surf good waves, not necessarily to compete and throw on the jersey, but to compete by being a sparring partner for these kids. These were the craziest waves I've surfed in so long. And, to reflect at the end of the day, laugh about it at dinner, and just to be on this adventure with the kids, the job doesn't get any better than this, you know?

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Luke Swanson is one of the top up and coming surfers coming out of Hawai’i. And, to have Luke on the trip was awesome. It was definitely an eye-opener for him to have the opportunity to surf with guys like Owen Wright and Morgan Cibilic, as they’re getting ready for an event.

I think it was a great chance for him to see what it takes at that level. And, to sum it up, preparation is everything. And, he saw that first hand. That was the importance of having him come on the trip and to throw him in with those guys to some real surfing together.

I've worked with Brisa Hennessy ever since she was a little girl and it's definitely come full circle. From us being at Sandy Beach for event number six to qualify for the HASA State Championships to getting ready for a World Tour event at perfect Barra. It's always great to watch the kids grow throughout the years. And, seeing where Brisa is today I couldn't be happier.

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I'm not surprised Jack Robinson won this event. He just looked so in sync with the wave, the way he surfed it just seemed so natural to his surfing.

He seemed so comfortable in that environment. To be honest, everyone there was capable of winning that event, there were flashes of brilliance from every single person on the WCT. But, there's a difference between what you look like in free surf to what you look like once you put on a jersey. In Jack’s case, his free surfing was carrying over into the heats. He probably even ramped it up a little to be honest.

I get second fiddle in the lineup. I don't like being in the way, especially when they’re preparing for an event. I want to give everybody their space. I just hand over priority. But, once in a blue moon, they’ll catch their waves and I’ll be sitting out there all by myself and I can get a wave like this.

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I met Morgan Cibilic two or three years ago at the Hale’iwa event.

At the time, he had a torn ACL, and had never surfed Hale’iwa before, and he ended up qualifying. So, it’s safe to say the boy has spirit. He rises on thicker occasions. And, he's just a good kid. He’s super attentive to detail, with both his surfing and his equipment.

And, to have the opportunity to pass on what I learned on tour and having someone to be so motivated to grow as a surfer, it just feels great, to see him on his journey. This sounds really cliche, but less is more with Morgan. We kept it real Zen-like, as simple and fun as possible. And, he had a spectacular rookie year.

The world tour is a brotherhood really. There's so much third party talk of rivalries of what goes on among the competitors on tour. But, when they're all eating dinner, cruising at the hotel or whatever, it's all good vibes man! When someone loses, they pick each other up, they have each other's back, it's a tour of good people, really.

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Joel Tudor of USA surfing in the Heat 7 of Round 3 of the Jeep Malibu Classic on October 12, 2021 in Malibu, CA, United States. Photo by Thomas Lodin/WSL

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E V E N T S The Oahu, Hawaii, competitor started the 2020 season off with an equal fifth in Noosa, Australia, before waiting over a year and a half to resume her ambitions for a third World Title. After her victory at the Cuervo Surf Ranch Classic, Blomfield entered Malibu No. 1 and maintained her composure throughout the event to emerge World Champion.

Over two decades since capturing his first Longboard World Title, the 45-year-old clinched his third World Title after making his return from hiatus in 2019 - earning him the title of eldest WSL World Title holder.

Tudor had to muster his very best to power through a marathon day of world-class competition, matching up against 3x WSL Longboard Champion Taylor Jensen (USA) in Round 3, future World Title contender Kaniela Stewart (HAW) in the Quarterfinals, and a Semifinal clash with Longboard Tour veteran Tony Silvagni (USA) to earn his place at the top.

Honolua Blomfield and Joel Tudor Claim 2021 World Titles at Jeep® Malibu Classic pres. by Havaianas

Honolua Bloomfield of Hawaii surfing in the Quarters of the Jeep Malibu Classic on October 12, 2021 in Malibu, CA, United States.

Photo by Thomas Lodin/WSL

MALIBU, Calif./USA (Tuesday, October 12, 2021) - Honolua Blomfield (HAW) and Joel Tudor (USA) claimed respective World Titles at the Jeep® Malibu Classic presented by Havaianas in iconic fashion as Alice Lemoigne (FRA) earned a brilliant event win alongside Tudor. Malibu, California’s renowned lineup delivered pristine conditions throughout the day as Blomfield and Tudor stood apart from the field to claim their piece of history.

Blomfield Earns History at Malibu Blomfield, 22, became the youngest 3x WSL Longboard Champion in history with an impeccable year culminating with her finals performance today where she finished runner-up to Lemoigne. The Oahu, Hawaii, competitor had to overcome Longboard Tour veteran Lindsay Steinriede (USA) in a tight Quarterfinal bout to claim the Title with a solid 7.00 (out of a possible 10) and 13.00 (out of a possible 20) heat total. Blomfield was welcomed to shore by friends and family as they hoisted her up.

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Women's Jeep Malibu Classic pres. Havaianas Final Results: 1 - Alice Lemoigne (FRA) 16.50 2 - Honolua Blomfield (HAW) 12.60

The work wasn’t done for Blomfield, however, as she then went on to showcase her calm under pressure and earn an excellent 8.83 over event threat Zoe Grospiron (FRA) after she dropped a 7.67 early in the Semifinals.

Having secured her 3rd WSL Longboard World Title before having to surf the final, Blomfield would have to settle for a runner-up placing at this event as Longboard Tour veteran Lemoigne dominated the final with two excellent wave scores and impeccable wave selection to take her biggest ever career victory.

Men's Jeep Malibu Classic pres. Havaianas Final Results: 1 - Joel Tudor (USA) 14.00 2 - Ben Skinner (GBR) 12.97

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E V E N T S “I surfed the best I could and I’m really happy with this,” Bryan said.

“That last wave came to her and there’s nothing I could have done unfortunately. I’m going to give myself a chance in France now and I’m really proud of myself for being consistent.”

Coming off a decent start at the US Open with a 9th place finish, Ezekiel Lau (HAW) clearly stepped up his game this week, consistently posting some of the biggest scores. The Hawaiian never looked back and blazed through the field on his way to a third win at the Challenger Series level (previously QS10,000).

Ezekiel Lau of Hawaii surfing in Round of 16 at the Meo Vissla Ericeira Pro. Photo by Damien Poullenot/WSL

Clean Sweep for Hawaii, Ezekiel Lau and Luana Silva Win 2021 MEO Vissla Pro Ericeira

Lau jumped from 34th to 1st on the Challenger Series rankings, in a very strong position heading into the back half of the season.

“Falling off tour a couple of years ago I’ve been working so hard ever since to just get back and winning here feels amazing,” Lau said. “I knew this was going to be a good event for me so I focused in on it. I trained long and hard for it so I’m just really stoked and just want to thank everyone that has helped me get to this point.”

Luana Silva of Hawaii winner of the Meo Vissla Ericeira Pro. Photo by Damien Poullenot/WSL

Ericeira / Portugal - Luana Silva (HAW) and Ezekiel Lau (HAW) have won the MEO Vissla Pro Ericeira, claiming victory in the Final bouts against Gabriela Bryan (HAW) and Jackson Baker (AUS) respectively, held in good three-to-four foot surf at the iconic Ribeira d’Ilhas pointbreak, stop No.2 of 4 on the 2021 Challenger Series.

The women’s Final brought incredible fireworks right from the get-go with Gabriela Bryan (HAW) and Luana Silva (HAW) finding great waves and tearing them apart with the power and progression they have been displaying all week.

Ten minutes in they were both sitting on huge heat totals, 17.13 for Bryan, 16.13 for Silva. It was heartbreaking to watch the next 20 minutes as Silva with a near-perfect 9.80 on the board struggled to find any opportunity in the lineup.

With 15 seconds on the clock, a wave finally materialized and the young surfer went to town on it, showing no signs of pressure whatsoever, to post an excellent 8.23 and seal the biggest victory of her young career. The result rocketed her up to third on the rankings.

“I have no words right now I’m so happy,” an ecstatic Silva mumbled in tears. “I knew it was going to be tough (in) that Final against Gabriela, but I just waited and finally got my chance. I’m stoked I managed to showcase my surfing.”

Gabriela Bryan (HAW) cemented her massive lead on the Challenger Series with a second, back-to-back runner-up finish after the US Open. Her incredible rampage through all the rounds will be a massive confidence boost, proving her surfing belongs at the very highest level in all types of conditions.

In the Final, Lau wasted no time to post two excellent (8+) scores in the opening ten minutes of the Final. Baker’s opening ride came in slightly below and the Australian sat patiently in the lineup with priority waiting for the right wave.

Lau’s combination of two scores were a major hurdle in Baker’s path and the waves didn’t materialize.

An unfamiliar sight in Semifinal 2 of the men’s was Imaikalani Devault (HAW) off rhythm. The Hawaiian, who previously posted the event’s biggest score, did not catch the right waves and couldn’t perform his usual progressive and aggressive maneuvers. However another big result for the Maui local will see him move into 3rd position on the rankings with a strong chance of backing it up in the remaining two events.

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H2O Designs Kathleen Arch Interview by Shannon Reporting

Combining collage art with acrylic and resin, artist Kathleen Arch shares common visuals of surf culture with fans of the lifestyle. She calls it, “breathing fresh life into found objects.”

An ocean lover and now the owner of H2O Designs, Kathleen recently sat down with Freesurf Magazine to share how growing up by the sea fuels artistic creativity. Her business brings her “coastal art” into the home to provide a seascape atmosphere almost as peaceful and divine as a long walk down your favorite beach. From the sounds of waves crashing in the distance to the silhouette of a longboarder dancing in the sunset, the ocean provides plenty of inspiration for the artistically inclined. Let’s dive in to the creative process of one such artist influenced by the ocean.

Q: What’s your favorite type of medium to work with?

Kathleen Arch: At the moment, I am drawn to using acrylics, inks, and resin. My art has evolved greatly over the past couple of years from simple pen and ink drawings to resin, free-flow acrylic pours, and collage art. Art is very influential in all aspects of life, especially when inspired by the ocean. The sheer beauty, power, and magnificence of the ocean waves take me on a journey – a journey that has led to the Coastal Surf Collage Art – taking pieces of everything around me by incorporating: coastal photography, pieces of tossed out paper, pages from surf magazines, ribbon, and pieces of fabric. These elements come alive in collage art.

Why “Coastal Art,” and how did that lead you to the North Shore?

Art has been in my background forever; my whole family is artistic in different ways. I have always doodled and sketched, but never to the magnitude that I do today. I gain inspiration from visiting art galleries wherever I travel, and street fairs are always full of fun inspirational local artists. I am drawn to art that depicts the ocean, and ocean life. Born on the East Coast and raised on the West Coast, the beach has always been my inspiration for almost everything I do in life. I grew up enjoying the waves in Malibu – sailing and surfing have always been my passions.

My first visit to the North Shore was in 2005, and I have been mesmerized by its beauty ever since. The spirit of Aloha is not just a phrase, it has become a way of life. There is a calmness that embodies my soul when I walk the sands of the North Shore: the people, the lifestyle, and the Aloha spirit is captured in my art.

Are there any other artists you look to for inspiration?

There are so many great artists, but one of my first impressions of collage art was through John Severson’s work. He embodied his vision of “evolution art” in the designs for Surfer Magazine.

His work inspires me to think outside of the box. And of course, Wade Koniakowsky’s work is

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beautiful and so full of life. Collage Art is not new, but there seems to be a fresh interest in this type of art medium. It’s like breathing fresh life into found objects.

Pick your favorite work of art and describe the creative process.

That would be what I call my Graffiti Surf Art. It’s similar to collage art, but with more detail and hand-drawn elements. I search for the perfect piece of wood – sand it and shape it into a surfboard, then allow the groves of wood to inspire the direction of the art. It usually starts with a hand-drawn element: a turtle, or a flower, or an ocean wave. Once I have the basic layout, I begin to fill in the blank space with pages torn from magazines, photographs taken on one of my journeys, and other scraps of material. Pinstriping is often added to bring in boundaries, then comes a touch of paint. Spray paint is fun. I turn to resin and mix in mica powders to enhance the blues of ocean water, and a thick white pigment to add the crashing waves.

o f f e

Blend s

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« « « « «

This process, for a 5’ board, usually takes several days and can often take a week to bring the art to life. Sometimes I walk away from a piece and return to it several times before the art takes on the spirit of the ocean. Once the board reaches its final stage, two or three coats of hand poured resin seal everything in place and provides a high gloss finish.

What would you say to an aspiring artist who needs some inspiration?

I would tell any aspiring artist to look outside of your day-to-day life and find what inspires you to breathe. It may sound a little silly, but for me, art begins with a breath of life drawn from things around me: the ocean, the sand, the sky, and the air. Listen closely to the sounds around you and the elements of color that pop out when you least expect it. I love to watch the water dance. It is different every time.

Don’t limit your creativity. Do whatever feels good and whatever speaks to your soul, and never give up! Don’t let anyone tell you how to paint your picture, or how to photograph the ocean waves – let your heart be your inspiration.

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F U T U R E

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FAITH LENNOX Faith Lennox started surfing with her dad when she was 5 years old after being inspired

by Bethany Hamilton, a fellow amputee. She began competing when her family moved to Maui from Southern California in 2015. At her very first surf competition: Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem, Faith won a Kazuma Surfboard for Sportsmanship, and she fell even more in love with competitive surfing. In 2018, she became a Kazuma Surfboards Team rider and joined the Hawaii Adaptive Surf Team.

At 10 years old, Faith competed in her first adaptive surf competition on Oahu where she placed third in the Women’s standing division and returned the following year to take first place and is still the reigning Champion in that division.

Faith continues to surf in both adaptive and non-adaptive competitions, inspiring

Paralympian Surf Champion, Faith Lennox, is our new favorite grom. The 10 year old Maui ripper sets her sites on future wins and a love for adventure.

everyone! In 2019, Faith joined the Stoke For Life Junior Adaptive Surf Team, was a mentor at the Challenged Athletes Foundation’s Jr Seau Adaptive Surf Camp, and was featured in the California Surf Museum! 2020 gave

standing divisions at the US Open of Adaptive Surfing, the Nissan Supergirl Pro, and USA Surfing Championships where she also took fourth place in U14 Longboard.

Faith sustained a crush injury to her left forearm called compartment syndrome at birth. Despite the doctors’ attempts to save her hand with multiple surgeries, amputation became the only option at 9 months old when the bones of her forearm had broken and would not heal due to the lack of circulation, but she’s never let it slow her down. Faith is a force to be reckoned with: a ball of ferocious energy, determination, and tenacity

Faith the chance to do a lot of surfing just for fun with competitions being cancelled due to Covid, but as contests picked back up in 2021 she returned to competing with a new fire.

She won first place in the adaptive womens

Accomplishments 2018 Hawaii Adaptive Surfing Championships- 3rd place Women’s Stand 2018 US Open of Adaptive Surfing- 2nd Place Juniors 2018 HSA Jerry Lopez Surfbash- 1st place Adaptive Stand 2018 Stance ISA World Adaptive Surfing Championships- 4th Place with Team Hawaii 2019 HSA Breakwall- 1st place Adaptive Stand 2019 Hawaii Adaptive Surfing Championships- 1st Place Women’s Stand 2019 Us Open- 2nd place Women’s Stand and 2nd place Juniors 2020 ISA AMPSURF World Championships- 2nd place Women’s AS1 2021 USA National Championships- 1st place Women's Para Stand 1 2021 USA National Championships- 4th Place Girls U14 Longboard 2021 US Open of Adaptive Surfing- 1st place Women’s Para Stand 1 and 2nd place Juniors 2021 Nissan Supergirl Pro- 1st place Adaptive Stand

with an amazing zest for life, a crazy love for adventure, a caring heart, and a contagious smile, Faith aspires to be a professional surfer one day and a Paralympian if surfing becomes a Paralympic sport.

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I N DUSTRY NOTES

THE 2021 CHALLENGER SERIES The 2021 Challenger Series is wrapping up and coming to end seeing results from events including the U.S Open, MEO Pro Ericeira, and the Quiksilver/Roxy Pro France, now only the Haleiwa Challenger event remains, which will be held from November 25 - December 7, 2021.

The Challenger Series rankings will provide the opportunity for proving surfers to qualify for the World Tour in 2022 and everyone's excited and anxious to see who it will be.

J O S H M O N I Z S U F F E R S N EC K I N J U RY One Challenger series competitor, powerhouse Josh Moniz, sustained a neck injury after a freak accident in feisty sand bar conditions while freesurfing at Supertobos after the MEO Pro in Portugal. Moniz comes from one of Hawaii’s most recognized and legendary surfing families, but unfortunately, it’s looking like Josh will now have to bow out for the remainder of the year. We all wish him a full and speedy recovery.

A L A N A B L A N C H A R D G E T S BAC K I N T H E WAT E R In the early weeks of August, after making it to nearly 43 weeks, Alana Blanchard gave birth to she and Jack Freestone's second child, Koda Riley Freestone. Now heading into winter, it's been reported that Alana is getting back in the water and getting herself ready for the upcoming surf season here by trading off beach daycare duty with her hubby to get some turns in and get back in the groove.

8 0 5 P R E S E N T S : B E AU T I F U L S I L E N C E F E AT U R I N G N AT E T Y L E R Born and raised just inland from the Central Coast, Nate Tyler was introduced to surfing through his father, who’d take Nate and his friends to the beach every weekend. As Nate progressed, sponsors started taking notice and thus ensued the chaotic life of a pro surfer.

Burned out on the fast lane surf industry, Nate has hunkered back down on the central coast with his family where he pursues artwork and surfing in the place he loves most. Watch the beautiful silence unfold in this tale of freesurfing legend.

Nate’s love for surfing wasn’t birthed at an early age. His home town of Templeton is set inland from the coast, and is driven by team sports, agriculture and rolling hills.

Nate’s dad grew up surfing and eventually rounded group of Nate and his friends together for trips down to the beach on the weekend. What started out as weekend beach days began to stoke a lifelong passion for surfing that is yet to be extinguished.

As a late teen, Nate moved to Orange County to gain exposure on his evolving talent and be near his sponsors. The culture difference between the highway heavy scene of Southern California and the quiet countryside of the Central Coast was stark, and Nate never really felt at home in the fast lane environment. He eventually made his way back home to the Central Coast because it felt like more of the way he wanted to live his life.

Nate’s father was a huge influence through his passion for artwork and metal sculpting. As an accomplished artist, he’s refined Nate’s sculpting and has challenged him to continue to progress with his artwork, creating kinetic metal sculptures from the ground up.

The culmination of putting down family roots, working closely with his father on artwork, and surfing have kept Nate grounded back home on the quiet Central Coast of California.

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TO M M O R E Y 1935 - 2921

I ND USTRY NOTES

Tom Morey was born in Detroit, Michigan. He was living in Laguna Beach, California, by 1944 and was avidly developing his talent for drumming in his youth. He became a professional musician in the 1950s. While surfing as a hobby he attended the University of Southern California and graduated with a B.A. in mathematics in 1957.

Morey attributes inspiration for invention of the Boogie board (on 7 July 1971) to a particular Baha'i prayer he kept coming across which included the passage "confer upon me thoughts which may change this world into a rose garden.'"[2][3] He founded the company Morey Boogie shortly thereafter. He later married Marchia Nichols, now Marchia Morey, known as the "mother of bodyboarding", who bore them four sons: Sol, Moon, Sky and Matteson. Tom sold Morey Boogie in 1977 and lived in Hawaii for a decade, working as a consultant by

J O S E C U E RVO S U R F R A N C H R E S U LT S Huge congratulations are in order to Hawaii’s own, Honolua Bloomfield and Frenchman Edouard Delpero, who took the win at the Jose Cuervo Surf Ranch contest. The event of course was held in perfect 2-4’conditions – just like a perfect man-made wave!

T H E G OA L I S S I M P L E - M O O R E LOV E Carissa Moore's charitable foundation- Moore Aloha, has partnered with Supergirl Pro for a series of Moore Aloha Beach Days. The 5x World Champ does this beautiful give back where the goal is to bring young women together in and around the water to encourage and inspire each other to be themselves and stay confident. Mahalo to Carissa for being a light in the industry and paving the way for the next generation of girls!

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day, jazz musician by night. By 1977, he was producing 80,000 bodyboards per year.[4] In 1985 the Moreys moved to Bainbridge Island, Washington, where Tom worked as an engineer for the Boeing Corporation. In 1992 Tom returned to southern California where he reentering the surf scene, consulting on the Wham-O Boogie®Board[5] and with the new company Morey Bodyboards.

[6] He ended consulting in January 1999 founding his own company again - Now TomMorey.com - and changed his name to Y. In late-2007, Tom joined forces with Catch Surf of San Clemente, California, to bring his new technology to the masses. Tom's revolutionary new surfboard technology fuses the safety and durability of soft surfboards with the performance of a hard surfboard.

Morey died on 14 October 2021 as per a statement from his son, Sol Morey at the age of 86.

Mark McMorris, 2x Olympic medalist, 20x X-Games medalist, and 4x US Open champ shows his impressive surfing style, with a hefty snap and a stylish floater, at Huntington during the free surfing sessions at the U.S Open while supporting girlfriend Coco Ho. We’re thinking maybe good enough for the qualifying series? Let’s leave that up to Coach Coco.

S N A P T 4 – B E T T E R L AT E T H A N N E V E R Snapt4, another part to the legendary series, taken over by Logan (Chuckie) Dulien and Chad Towersey, just released its world tour schedule. After a run of premieres, it will be launched for free at the end of October / early November.

Having supposed to have been done a year ago.. but you know.. the whole no public gatherings thing happened, it’s finally now gracing our presence among the community that still gets psyched when a good surf film comes out. Keeping the old school surf flick alive, the snapt series is everything a surf movie should be. It’s a relic where the original movie included legends like the Irons brothers, Ozzy Wright, Joel Parkinson, Taj Burrow, CJ Hobgood.. and that’s just to name a few.

It’s simple, core, stylish, and it’s not something you want to miss. Our suggestion- sit back and have yourself a classic marathon day starting with the original Snapt film.

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All religiosity aside, is this not a sacred moment? Kalani Chapman in awe of the sublime at Pipeline.

Photo: Shane Grace