Freesurf Magazine V17N2

V 1 7 # 2

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Island Hop

Tanner Hendrickson, Honolua Bay. Photo: gOnzo

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(LEFT) GERRY LOPEZ, ULUWATU. (PHOTO) CHRIS PEEL

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F R E E

P A R K I N G

The swell that hit shores December 30th rose dangerously fast, as most spots were either maxed-out or unofficially designated as “expert only” zones. Pipe had two days of heavy conditions that were thresholding into the ‘too big’ range with regular wash-through sets and an alarming number of rescues from the lifeguards on duty.

Pipeline charger and full-time City and County Lifeguard, Guilherme Tamega, paddled into a set wave that would become one of bodyboarding’s most iconic photos of all time. While Tamega was locked in the tube the wave collided with a surge of backwash, (due to the steep sand dune that had built up in front of the break), mutating into this incredible Pipeline monster.

Photo: Christa Funk

Grant Taylor T A B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

06

Free Parking

10

Editor’s Note

14

HIO, A half-century of stoke

22

News & Events

24

Surviving Giants

28

Island Hop

36

Aperture

50

Wahine

54

Surf Art

50

Stuff We Like

60

Community

64

Industry Notes

66

Last Look

O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: N AT H A N L AW R E N C E

N O T E

Celebrate Discovery

By Andrew Oliver

Exploration has always been an integral part of surfing - the constant desire to find and surf new waves is written in our DNA - as surfers we have an insatiable curiosity to know what waves may be found beyond the furthest point. And most importantly, are they rideable? Much of the legend and lore of our beloved pastime is built on these tales of discovery, and like any oral history, embellishment and exaggeration are woven together with fact.

From the beginning, one of surfing’s defining myths that put the very notion of surf exploration into popular consciousness, was obfuscated with artistic license. The iconic discovery of the seemingly endless peelers of Cape St. Francis (the defining sequence of Bruce Brown’s canonical 1966 film The Endless Summer) is given a full dramatic workup, with Brown portraying the films protagonists, Mike Hynson and Robert August, as having to endure Lawrence of Arabia-esque travails along their journey through the desert - with their ultimate arrival to a pre-modern surfing nirvana. While Hynson and August did in fact discover and surf the perfectly tapered right-hand pointbreak, the cinematic retelling of the journey was a work of fiction.

As acclaimed surf-historian Matt Warshaw states, in his comprehensive survey a History of Surfing, Brown’s tendency for hyperbole is easily forgiven; In the editing room, Brown arranged events to highlight a universally shared surfing dream. A dream that occasionally comes true. It wasn’t deceit. It was a gift.

gOnzo

E D I T O R ' S

Fact-checking be damned, The Endless Summer at its core was a celebration of what each of us as surfers search for; the thrill of a new wave and the joy in recounting that experience with our friends, or in Brown’s case the entire world.

For the vast majority, circumnavigating the globe on a multi-year search for untouched perfection just isn’t in the cards. The elemental desire to seek new waves must be supplanted by experiencing the familiar in different ways, or narrowing our search to something closer to home. Here in the islands, close to home takes on another meaning, as the Hawaiian archipelago is blessed with some of the most varied and perfect surf breaks on the globe, all just a quick hop away. In this issue, we do just that, dropping in to one of the best swells of the season at Maui’s historic Honolua Bay. Regardless of what stretch of coast you call home, discovery is within reach. It may be as literal as looking around that furthest corner, or it could simply be challenging yourself to a new experience; experimenting with different equipment, entering a comp for the first time, or charging into bigger surf. The roads to self-discovery are just as numerous as the plots on a map. Whichever path you take, be sure to add a little flair in retelling the tale.

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai‘i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic

Hawai‘i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395

Editor Andrew Oliver Associate Editor Shannon Reporting Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver

Contributing Writers gOnzo, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Ben Marcus, Taylor Phelps Copy Editor Mara Pyzel West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Richard Galligan (949) 702-3476

Staff Shooters Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Landon Hayashi, Jake Zielinski Contributing Photographers Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, Dave "Nelly" Nelson, Jean Paul Van Swae, John Hook, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Shannon Reporting, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo, Tai Vandyke, John Weaver, Will Weaver Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag

East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

BILLY KEMPER

BEACH FREELY

Kai Paula, of Hana, Maui, had one of the most impressive debut performances in HIO history. At size, Hale'iwa is one the most challenging and intimidating spots on the North Shore, a wave that can take years to master. For this relatively unknown junior, it was either sink-or-swim, “I’ve actually never surfed real Hale'iwa before my first heat,” said Paula. It’s safe to say Paula found his way; over the next few days the towering 16-year-old put on a clinic in critical 10ft-plus surf walking away with the coveted Juniors title. Life-long Hale'iwa local Sean Moody commented that Paula, “did some of the best surfing I’ve seen in a long time.”

Photo: Andrew Oliver

HIO a Half-Century of Stoke The Hale'iwa International Open Celebrates its 50th Year in Epic Surf

By Andrew Oliver

The Hale'iwa International Open E D I T O R ' S N O T E

Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park. Photo: Andrew Oliver

he Hale‘iwa International Open (HIO), one of the longest-

“Being invited to this competition is a huge honor for our athletes,”

running amateur surfing events in Hawa‘’i, was established

said Cara Short, Executive Director of AccesSurf. “Not to mention that

fifty years ago by legends Rell Sunn, Earl Dahlin and friends

they get to surf Ali‘i Beach in such great conditions!”

as a goodwill gathering among local

surfers.

For many participants, the HIO

Held annually at one of the North

and

international

is their one opportunity a year to

Shore’s premier waves, the spirited

throw on a jersey, and with the

event has been perpetuated by the

event running around Christmas

Hale‘iwa community. The current

and New Year’s, the contest has

squad of locals at the helm is led

become an annual holiday treat for

by longtime Hale‘iwa ripper, Joel

the competitors to have a chance to

Centeio: “Myself and all the boys

surf Hale‘iwa with just three other

grew up surfing this event. It’s good

surfers in the water.

to give back at a spot that has given us so much,” said Centeio.

The HIO’s waiting period is one of the best swell windows of the

Today, the HIO continues its heritage

season, so Hale‘iwa aficionados

of providing a fun, competitive

know it’s an event not to be missed.

setting for a diverse surfing community, hosting competitions in

With this year’s forecast looking as good as it did, 11-time world champ

thirteen distinct divisions. In recent years, the HIO has partnered with

Kelly Slater half-jokingly inquired about a slot in the draw. But, with

AccesSurf Hawai‘i to include adaptive surfing in the competition, and

non-WSL event sanction fees being well beyond the HIO’s humble

this year’s event boasted the biggest turnout to date!

budget, Slater had to watch with envy as his Momentum Generation

16

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Available tail designs include: squash, round, swallow and round-pin.

Josh Moniz, Off The Wall

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The Hale'iwa International Open Widely-regarded as one of the best aerialists in the world, Eli Hanneman made clear that he’s packing a wellstocked arsenal for his approach.

Hanneman layed down full-power rail surfing, earning his way into two finals (Junior's and Open Men's) and an ultimate win in the Open Men's division.

Photo: Andrew Oliver

compatriots, Ross Williams and Pat

into HIO, edging out North Shore

O’Connell, battled it out in epic 10-

super grom Nalu Deodato for a

foot surf in the Master’s division.

big win in the Boys’ 13 & Under division. Hale‘iwa local Bettylou

For the cadre of up-and-coming

Sakura

junior surfers who are competing

glory back to Ali‘i Beach with a

regularly

year,

commanding win in the Open

the HIO is no light-hearted affair.

Women's division at just 14 years

This event stands apart on the

old. As the swell rapidly filled in

throughout

the

junior contest calendar, as it is

Johnson

brought

the

for the final two days, Johnson Next generation stoke.

Photo: Gonzo

almost always held in serious surf. The event provides a unique

didn’t want to miss out on her chance to compete in the big

opportunity for aspiring pros to test

stuff, so she even competed in

their skills and make their presence

the Junior Men’s, as well as being

known at one of the most powerful

a standout during freesurfs before

and challenging waves on the

and after the event in borderline

planet.

maxed-out Hale‘iwa. But, it was the relatively unknown Kai Paula

The first two days of competition

of Maui who was the standout of

kicked

surf

the event, winning the prestigious

with idyllic conditions in which

off

in

head-high

Junior’s division and garnering

the younger competitors could

multiple heat totals over 18-points

perform. Young Brazilian ripper

Nalu Deodato, backside attack.

Photo: Andrew Oliver

Ryan Kainalo put the “international”

18

along the way to his dominant victory.

For Hale`iwa native Bettylou Sakura Johnson, a surf at her beloved homebreak is just a short walk across the park. Her comfort at Hale`wa showed: at just 14 years old, Johnson’s was some of the most powerful and committed surfing of the entire event decisively winning the Open Women's division.

Photo: Andrew Oliver

Jasmine Crawford and Joel Centeio. Smiles and dedication have kept the HIO going strong 50 years on. Photo: gOnzo

Pre-heat psych-up. Photo: Gonzo

Hale'iwa International Open Results Boys’ Shortboard 13 Years & Under 1st Ryan Kainalo 2nd Nalu Deodato 3rd Rivan Rock Rosskoph 4th Stone Suitt

Grandmasters’ Shortboard 60+ 1st Yoshio Abekawa 2nd Michael Sherman 3rd Andrew Coutts 4th Jock Sutherland

Adaptive All Ages 1st Alcino Pirata 2nd Buster Kawasaki 3rd Ann Yoshida 4th Mike Coots

Juniors’ Shortboard 14-18 Years 1st Kai Paula 2nd Eli Hanneman 3rd Shion Crawford 4th James Ribbon

Open Men’s Shortboard All Ages 1st Eli Hanneman 2nd Shion Crawford 3rd Mo Frietas 4th Mikey O’Shaughnessy

Women’s Longboard All Ages 1st Tiki Willis 2nd Eliana Dowsett 3rd Jordan Bjur 4th Yuri Rose

Masters’ Shortboard 40-50 Years 1st Pat O’Connell 2nd Ross Williams 3rd Alex Miranda 4th Spencer Suitt

Women’s Shortboard 35 + 1st Hiromi Hasegawa-Suitt 2nd Vanessa Bruneau 3rd Kiyomi Sheppard 4th Kimiyo Dougherty

Men’s Longboard All Ages 1st Haa Foster-Blomfield 2nd Jacob Apilando 3rd Chris Falk 4th Alex Miranda

Seniors’ Shortboard 50-60 Years 1st Glenn Matsumoto 2nd Pete Johnson 3rd James Kress 4th Tor Johnson

Open Women’s Shortboard All Ages 1st Bettylou Sakura Johnson 2nd Nora Liotta 3rd Anat Leilor 4th Savanna Stone

Masters’ Longboard 40-55 Years 1st Calen Barcena 2nd Alex Miranda 3rd Kalani Wilia 4th Hiroto Ito 20

Grandmasters’ Longboard 56 + 1st Robert Snelling 2nd Jock Sutherland 3rd Alika Willis 4th Michael Sherman

MATT MEOLA AND LUCAS DIRKSE WITH SALTY CREW SUN PROTECTION

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E V E N T S

WSL / Heff

Italo Ferreira Claims Maiden Surfing World Title, Wins Billabong Pipe Masters

WSL / Heff

&

WSL / Sloane

N E W S

WSL / Sloane

Italo Ferreira and Kelly Slater

Gabriel Medina

Italo Ferreira (BRA) is the 2019 World Surf League (WSL) Champion after defeating his closest rival, Gabriel Medina (BRA), in a heated Final in six-to-eight foot waves at the 2019 Billabong Pipe Masters, the final stop on the Men's WSL Championship Tour (CT) and third gem of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Ferreira is only the third Brasilian to win the World Title and Billabong Pipe Masters trophy and celebrated the double-win with an emotional chair up the beach to the awards stage.

Medina had a brilliant performance against John John Florence (HAW) in Quarterfinal 3 and scored a near-perfect 9.23 for a cavernous Pipeline left, along with an 8.40 to combo Florence. Medina's dominance seemed unbeatable, especially with his expertise in big frontside barrels.

"I just want to thank everyone for cheering for us," said Medina. "It's been a fun week and that wave was a really fun one, maybe it was the heat we got a lot of waves. Against John, it's even more special because he's one of the best surfers in the world and I love to compete against him. I just feel really good surfing these waves. I just want to thank all the locals for letting us surf this wave because it's one of my favorites that I surf. I'm proud of myself and now looking forward to the next one."

"I can't believe it, it's unreal," said Ferreira. "I've dedicated my whole life to get one trophy and I did. This is going to my grandmother and my uncle first. I came to Pipe a month ago to train and test my boards. This trophy means a lot to me and I just don't have the words. Those were good heats against Kelly (Slater), Gabriel (Medina), Yago (Dora) and all the boys. You guys all give me a lot of energy and I just try to do my best every single day."

Ferreira opened the final heat of the season in the first fifteen seconds with inside position and earned the best singlewave score of the Final, a 7.83 (out of a possible 10), for a rare Backdoor barrel on his backhand. He never gave up the lead and put pressure on Medina from start to finish and ultimately ended with a 15.56 scoreline to Medina's 12.94. Conditions progressed throughout the day to deliver proper Pipeline barrels that pushed twelve-foot faces for the Brasilian showdown.

On Ferreira's path to victory, he overcame Medina, two-time World Champion and formidable competitor, in the Final, and Kelly Slater (USA), 11-time World Champion and seven-time Billabong Pipe Master in the Semifinals. Ferreira's wave selection reigned supreme under pressure, in part thanks to Pipeline specialist Shane Dorian (HAW), who helped coach and guide the Brasilian, but largely due to his perseverance. He committed to being on the North Shore for a month ahead of this event and had one goal in mind, which was only achievable by conquering Medina.

"This year was so crazy with ups and downs so this means a lot," continued Ferreira. "Before I started this competition, I was looking at this trophy and thinking I really want that. But now it's in my hands and the celebration can start. This year was really different for me and special and I want to thank God for everything!"

22

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SU RV I V I NG GI A NT S

A B I G W AV E S E R I E S B Y S H A N N O N R E P O RT I N G

FOU R-TI ME JAWS C H A MPION, BI L LY K EMPER Hard work and dedication go a long way—just ask the fourtime Jaws Challenge champion, Billy Kemper. If it weren’t for Ian Walsh’s 2017 Pe’ahi victory, Kemper would still be the undisputed champ at the “Super Bowl of surfing”. Born in the tropical jungle of Haiku, Maui, and now raising his own family of four boys on the North Shore of O‘ahu, Billy Kemper finds plenty of motivation to stay fit while facing the world’s most powerful waves. Over the summer, the dedicated athlete earned his certification in XPT coaching (Laird Hamilton and Gabby Reece’s brainchild) and recently opened his own highperformance training facility on the North Shore with his wife, Tahiti, called ROAR Fitness.

Billy Kemper, Mavericks. photo: Ryan Craig

Their first Instagram post [@ uproarfitness_ns] pictured a lion growling furiously alongside the slogan, ‘Sometimes it’s not about who has more talent; it’s about who’s hungrier.’ Touché.

Kemper is raising the bar for professional surfers in regards to their out-of-the-water training, from scientifically weighing out his food intake by the gram with top sports nutritionists, to living the “no days off” workout motto.

But how, one may ask, has he been so undisputed? What’s the winning formula? We met up with the unstoppable machine for some insight into his training routine, his scrupulous nutritional intake, and how he’s balancing fatherhood with rhino chasing.

What makes Jaws the "Super Bowl of surfing”?

If you were to draw a picture of an ideal big wave, Jaws is it.

How do you train for such serious surf?

I’ve been really into my nutrition and fitness for the last ten years. I’ve been working with nutritionists by the name of Matt and Cherie Chad. They are at the top of the totem pole when it comes to sports [nutrition]. They work with the top-tier athletes.

I don’t think anybody in surfing has tapped into nutritionists this hands-on. Obviously, people diet; but I’m checking in with them seven days per week, getting prescribed daily macronutrient intake. Every meal is weighed out to the gram for the entire day.

Then, I built a gym up by my house with my wife. We partnered with a few different brands to create UPROAR Fitness on the North Shore. It’s a high-performance training facility along with a spin studio.

I have cold plunges and saunas up there. Over the summer, I was studying the XPT Fitness that Laird Hamilton created and I got my XPT coaching certification. I’m really into my fitness, and have been training with Kahea Hart for the last eight years consistently. He’s my main coach for strengthening, conditioning, and physical training. I also box with Nito Boxing, so I’m on a pretty tight schedule.

SU RV I V I NG GI A NT S / BI L LY K EMPER Describe your morning routine.

I wake up every day at 5 am. I train seven days a week; three of those days are twice per day.

I start my workout at 6:30 am with a two-hour training session with Kahea Hart. It begins with Foundation Training, movement, mobility, and then into core work: strength, power, speed, and agility. Then I usually get in a few surf sessions. I end my days on Monday, Wednesday, and Fridays with an hour of boxing with Nito Boxing.

What’s your nutrition look like on a contest day, before a long day of surfing?

Everyone is different, but there’s no surfer in the world right now who is counting the macros with a nutritionist the way I’m doing it. If the Jaws event were to get called on, 72 hours before we would do a pre-load, which is basically jacking my carbohydrate intake up to 352 grams broken down into five meals, all equally weighed out. All my carbs come from sweet potatoes, taro, fruits, and very rarely a grain like rice or quinoa. Protein levels always stays the same: I consume 170 grams of protein per day. The fats are also the same: I take in 76 grams of fat. Everything is broken down and divided equally into five meals per day. There’s no snacking, and every meal is within two hours apart.

Walk us through one of your worst hold-downs at Pe‘ahi.

Last year in the event during the final minutes of the heat, I only rode one wave - which was probably the best wave of my life.

But I was trying to find a back-up score, so I took off on a wave. I hit a step and air-dropped; then I landed. As I was shaking my head to get the water out of my eyes, another step sucked out below me but I didn’t stick that one. I landed on my ribs, and it knocked the wind out of me really badly. I got held under for

a really long time. When I came to the surface, I couldn’t take a breath of air. There was a 50 foot double-up that landed on my head. I actually blacked-out during that hold down right there. I had never experienced that phase of not having control over my body. I felt my body letting go; it was really peaceful, but very scary. I had no control over what was happening.

Without the safety of inflatable suits, flotation, and the skis… [pauses] all that saved my life.

did before jet skis, before tow-in surfing. If you look back at Eddie Aikau, those guys were surfing massive waves with just straight ocean knowledge and training.

They were very confident and comfortable in those situations.

I looked up to people like that as a kid, getting help from Laird and Dave [Kalama] to get myself mentally and physically ready to take on the worst possible scenarios.

Billy Kemper and son at The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Contest opening ceremony 2019. photo: Shannon Reporting

There have been so many innovations in big wave surfing in recent years (at least there haven’t been any reports of drowning we’re aware of in big surf since the invention of the inflation vest). How has that changed the sport?

There are pros and cons, I think: there are people who are relying on the vests to save their life in order to paddle out there, which I think is a terrible aspect of it. Look at what Laird [Hamilton] and those pioneers

For me—someone with children, a wife, a family to come home to—I think the vest has definitely pushed my limit.

I’ve rode waves and surfed on days I probably wouldn’t have without it, which is a scary thing to [admit], but that’s the truth. I’m really stoked on it, and on the support that some corporate companies have put into making it a point to really help push the level of safety. Now, every year, they are coming up with new ideas, 26

asking for our feedback, and producing what they can to be the safest suits possible for us.

I’m very stoked that there are a handful of different companies who are all in it to help us surfers.

That part of it is really cool. As far as the addition of jet skis for our safety, the amount of training that’s been going on around the world has been helpful. It’s really cool to see how many people are committed to saving people’s lives. Training for a bad situation makes you more comfortable for when it really happens. I’m really grateful for every one of those guys, and I pay my dues to them as much as I can.

Do you think being a world champion has helped pushed you to reach maximum performance?

I was never given anything in my life. I wasn’t born into a corporate contract. What I do have is work ethic. My wife and I are a team in ourselves, and that has motivated me to work really hard. I lost my mom, my dad isn’t there, we lost my wife’s mom early in our relationship, and her dad is also not in the picture. We raised four children here on the North Shore all on our own without any help, so I think that’s where the majority of my motivation comes from. I have a lot on my plate to be motivated for every morning, to dig deep, and never give up.

At the end of the day, as a world champion or not, there’s only one goal. Second place in an event is just as bad at last place, in my eyes. I’m addicted to winning; that’s been my game plan and motivation my entire life. When you work for something and see the results, it’s a lot different than someone who is gifted opportunities without working for it. It’s a different lifestyle and a different understanding about working and grinding it out to get to the reward at the end of the tunnel.

Island Hop Story and photos by gOnzo

Back in the early 70s, Honolua was considered one of the most sought-after waves on the planet and more than a few surfers moved to Maui just to experience its perfection on a regular basis.

Nowadays, the lineup spans the generations with old and new rippers all there to experience that feeling that attracted so many to its shores decades ago.

28

Josh Moniz flew over from O'ahu at daybreak and joined Cody and Levi Young for a quick mission to Honolua Bay. Needless to say, Josh did not waste a second, grabbing a few of the best waves of the morning.

Cody Young's approach to the wave's sudden changes and contours is as organic as it looks. This place makes him genuinely happy.

For the majority of the year the picture-perfect bay sits in idle tranquility, for Honolua to come alive, it requires a major North Pacific winter swell to funnel in through the small channel between the northwest point of Maui and Moloka’i. Once ignited, the freight-train righthander wraps through the series of points and slingshots into a final mutant tube crescendo in The Cove. When all the elements align and The Bay is working its magic, it is one of the most iconic sights in surfing. Honolua is the perfect reef point break to which all other reef point breaks are measured against. The majesty of this wave perfect wave has endured through the many decades of modern-day surfing and is just as relevant and sought after today as it ever was.

When the WSL Jaws Big Wave Championship swell flared up in the forecast, the Freesurf team jumped into Honolua mode. With the media circus headed to Pe‘ahi for the contest, it was agreed that going rogue (and against the traffic) might just be the thing to do to get the shot no one else would have. The team had no sooner hopped off the flight when that legendary gift-from-the-gods swell started showing signs of life. By the next morning, Honolua Bay was in full force and the waves were solid.

30

Jake Zielinski Honolua, like many other world-class waves in Hawai'i, becomes pure magic during the evening hours. Here, Cole Alvez reaps the rewards of a pau hana session.

Local young warriors, and their endemic knowledge of the wave, showed up with the sun. A stellar crew including: Ocean Macedo, Cody and Levi Young, Cole Alves, and Savannah Stone each caught amazing rides throughout the session. Fresh from O‘ahu was Josh Moniz, who flew over just in time to catch three insane rides that lit up The Bay like fireworks. His Hawaiian style and smile were contagious. Maui local Tanner Hendrickson also got a few remarkable rides—despite the chaos of the crowd, navigating his way through some of the days deepest tubes. The mix of new talent and seasoned wave-warriors made for an action-packed day allowing the Freesurf team to capture a bounty of memorable moments.

And luckily, that was all that was nabbed! That very same afternoon a juvenile 8-foot tiger shark was spotted in The Bay. The apex predator was seen charging a terrified honu for a lengthy ten minutes just a few feet away from the rocky shore deep in The Cove. Although it is all-toocommon sight for the locals, it made it an easy decision for your’s truly to stay on dry land for the remainder of the afternoon, and thus was born this issue’s cover featuring Tanner Hendrickson on a Honolua bomb from the safety of the shore.

Mokulele Airlines twin turbo prop, 9-passenger ,Cessna Grand Caravan flexing on the HNL runway.

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Honolua Bay, Maui

Ocean Macedo

Savanna Stone

Ocean Macedo surfs Honolua Bay with style and controlled aggression.

Macedo annihilated this cutback after exiting one of the deepest barrels of the morning.

Freesurf Magazine would like to thank Mokulele Airlines for making our island-hop easy. Mokulele is, without a doubt, the best way to quickly and easily travel between the Hawaiian Islands. All we had to do was sit back and enjoy the epic view.

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Anthony Walsh in a moment of full reverence in the Pipeline altar.

Photo: Will Weaver

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Style, power, and poise well beyond her 15 years of age. Luana Silva, Rocky Point.

Photo: Mike Latronic

Eli Olson, locked-in, Backdoor.

Photo: Jake Zielinski

Full-swoop, Mikey February, Sunset Beach.

Photo: Mike Latronic

Off-the-Wall click, Eithan Osborne.

Photo: Federico Vanno

Koa Rothman, fifth-gear throttle, Pipeline.

Photo: Gonzo

Crosby Colapinto, full-speed slice through some Hawaiian glass, Rocky Rights.

Photo: Andrew Oliver

With mere inches of water to land in at Off-The-Wall left, the temptation to take it to the air can come with some serious consequences. Yago Dora, literally throwing caution to the wind..

Photo: Mike Latronic

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Pick your poison, Pipeline Photo: Gonzo

Mikey O’Shaughnessy flirting with the foamball, Pipeline.

Photo: Austin Moore

Brodi Sale, grab-rail downshift, Hale'iwa.

Photo: Gonzo

Paradise found, Dwight Pastrana, outer-island perfection.

Photo: Dooma

H YAT T R E G E N C Y W A I K I K I ALA MOANA CENTER KOKO MARINA WINDWARD MALL HAWAII

WAIKELE

SURF COMPETITION

L A H A I N A G AT E W AY

Erik Aeder W A H I N E

Maui’s Skylar Lickle

By Shannon Reporting

The upbringing of waterwoman Skylar Lickle would make any thrill-seeker want to move to the adventurous island of Maui. Equipped with gear for all sorts of conditions, there are no lay days for this wahine. Her early years were spent playing water polo and running track, surfing (of course), and exploring the outdoors. When she felt ready for it, her father handed her the rope to tow surf the outer reef at Sprecks, which naturally fed her hunger for paddling into bigger waves. A passion for stand-up paddle racing helped the 19-year-old learn to maneuver bigger boards, so after graduating from high school, she dedicated even more time to the big wave prowess, eventually finding herself in the ultimate lineup at Pe‘ahi.

Miss Lickle is one of many talented young athletes raised on the windy island of Maui. A lucky few were recently invited to compete in the women’s division of the Jaws Big Wave Championship and in December 2019, Lickle got her first taste of competition in the arena.

This might be the first you’ve heard of Skylar, but it definitely won’t be the last. We met up with her at home in the dense jungle of Haiku to talk story and hear about how the sport is developing for female surfers such as herself, what she hopes to see for the future of women’s surfing, and why she so badly wants to ride the biggest wave of her life this season.

How were you introduced to big wave surfing?

As a young kid, my dad was out at Jaws towing every swell, so I’d be up on the cliff watching him with my mom and sister and the whole crew. I thought it looked great. Then my dad would come in and say, “That was the best day ever!” So how could I not want to surf big waves and feel that adrenaline? Since I was a baby, my dad would push me into waves. I’ve naturally excelled in bigger waves. It’s something I’ve always wanted to do and saw myself doing, I guess. I started by towing into little waves. When a big swell came, he would say, “Come on; let’s go!” And I would be like, “Okay, I guess…”

Three years ago, I finally got into

paddling [them]. I got an 8’4’’ shaped by Sean [Ordonez of SOS Shapes]. It was the coolest rush ever. Instead of just getting whipped into the wave, you’re paddling and catching them yourself. You’re paddling as hard as you can to get in with this crazy rush of adrenaline. Last year, I towed a few waves at Jaws and then I paddled a few. It was pretty sick; I didn’t feel the rush I thought I would feel, however.

Then, we got a good swell this past October. I don’t even remember it; everything went by so fast. When I kicked out, I started crying. It felt like this was what I have been working up to for so long, and I was so happy to finally feel like I’m succeeding in what I’ve wanted to do.

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Even though the event didn’t run this year due to lack of swell, what does it mean to you to be invited to the Red Bull Queen of the Bay competition?

You have to be really respected to be invited to a big wave contest. You’ve got to have courage in order to be out there pushing yourself in order to get that spot. It’s not easy to get in.

These girls are really charging and showing what they can do in order to get into these spots.

Last year I was an alternate [for Red Bull Queen of the Bay].

This year, I sent in a photo of myself surfing Pe‘ahi and they said I made it in. I thought it was so epic! I went to the opening ceremony, and it was so cool to see all the girls so psyched

on this sport. This is a powerful community. There are so many girls ready to kick butt! It was a bummer that the waiting period ended so quickly [Oct 1-Nov 21].

Every day I was checking to see if there was a new swell. I want to be able to prove myself and show what I’m capable of, and I know so many other girls want that opportunity as well. This is who we are; this is what we’re here for.

It’s so impressive that you’re doing all this freshly out of high school. Big Wave Tour champions Keala Kennelly and Twiggy are more than twice your age. Who’s inspiring you to charge?

Seeing Paige [Alms] out there and the girls out these past few years made me think, “I can do that! And I want to do that!”

They have been charging, and it’s so sick. I feel like I started late in my career. I was in a really rigorous school doing a sport every single season—whether it be volleyball, spring-board diving, waterpolo—and on top of that I was surfing. I didn’t have time to be going out during every swell; my mom didn’t let me skip school. So when I graduated, I took a year off to see what I could do. I got to surf my biggest waves yet, and knew that this was what I wanted to do. I’m pretty much focused on water sports: kiting when it’s windy, wind-foiling. I love to foil; I love every water sport.

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S K Y L A R

How does it feel to paddle out to a scary place like Jaws alongside other wahine?

It’s so cool. I’ve gotten to know Paige pretty well throughout the years. It’s so nice to hear,

“Hey Sky!” It’s great. Even being welcomed by the boys out there saying, “It’s really great to see you out here!” That’s really important to know that there are people watching out for you; that’s really important to feel in those really intense moments.

What would you like to see for the future of big wave surfing?

Last year there seemed to be a lot of hope with

L I C K L E

the Big Wave Tour. I wanted to get on that tour in a few years as my ultimate dream. It kind of sucks to hear that it’s not coming together: the funds…?

I don’t know exactly what it is,

but it’s sad to hear. It seems like everybody is trying, but it’s just not coming together. I’d like to see a tour with five different locations to really see who’s the best and who’s ready to charge.

I was traveling a little bit with the [APP] Stand-Up World Tour… but it would be really cool to see an organized, powerful tour [for big wave surfing], because I think it could be really exciting for people to watch.

If you could pick five spots for a Women’s Big Wave Tour, where would they be?

Five spots: Jaws, of course, because who doesn’t love Jaws?

Mavericks; Puerto Escondido; Waimea; I think it would be sick to see Nazaré. A tow contest at Nazaré would be so sick; I think that would be epic.

Considering all your crosstraining with multi-sport disciplines, have any fitness tips for our surfing audience?

My biggest thing is staying active. I’m so lucky to be born and raised on Maui—anything I want to do, I can go do. I could go kite right now, but I have to go to school [laughs]. I surf a lot and try to stay busy so I’m not being lazy. That’s the most important thing to me. As for food, I love everything and eat everything. I’m not going to limit myself; I’ll treat myself. I also workout with Deep2Peak and Inspiration Health about four or five days per week to stay fit.

It’s really easy to go downhill quick if you’re not on top of it. You need to be in your best possible shape at any time, because you never know when a swell is going to come. You can’t just workout hard right when you see a swell on the charts. You need to strive to stay healthy every single day, and be ready.

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W A H I N E

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Cole Alves

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S U R F

A R T

David Wight Glass Art

By Taylor Phelps

David Wight began his journey as a glassblowing artist at the age of 25 when he took a post-graduation trip to the island of Dominica. He spent most of his time unintentionally interpreting waterfalls, which inspired his art: “I was incredibly inspired by how relaxing and calming the sound of a waterfall was. When I returned home, I realized how water had continually influenced my life.” David concluded that he desired to create mini water fountains that would bring people the same sense of peacefulness and tranquility that he had experienced in the Caribbean.

An ad in the paper for an open house at a glass shop activated David’s creativity and passion for the fluid compound. “Once I saw the molten glass and how translucent it was, I knew this was the medium I must use to capture the sound of water.”

David believes that sculpting waves from molten glass is one of the only materials that can effectively capture the essence and movement of water. From a technical standpoint, glassblowing allows David to physically manipulate shapes and forms that look and feel similar water.

Glass, in general, is delicate and elegant, but the process of glass blowing is quite an intense and intricate one. David and his highly skilled team work side-by-side to complete each project. His assistants gather layers of hot glass from the 2,000-degree furnace on the end of a 5-foot long steel rod. Then, they shield and monitor David as they reheat the sculpture while David layers the glass

and builds it into a wave. “Each sculpture begins with forming a base out of the hot glass. Then I add and sculpt multiple layers of glass onto the base to bring the wave to life. With each layer, I use custom tools to pull, twist, and move the hot glass into form. All the while, I need to sculpt each layer of glass hot enough so it looks and feels like water, while keeping it cool enough so it holds its shape.” It’s the perfect combination of teamwork and timing. Once the sculpture is complete, David and his team break the design off of the steel rod and place the glass in a specialized oven called an annealer. This oven slowly decreases temperature over a certain amount of days to prevent the sculpture from cracking due to thermal shock.

David experiments with a number of effects to create different looks with his glass waves. His most recent sculpture series is called the Luminescent, inspired by the bioluminescent life found in the oceans. “I wanted to create a wave capable of emitting its own soft, blue glow. To achieve this effect I mix certain minerals into the glass that allow it to capture, and later release light.” Another effect David calls “Champagne style” comes from wrapping copper leaf in the glass. The effect goes through heavy manipulation before the look is complete, starting as a rusted red color and transforming into a bubbly light blue after it reacts and oxidizes to the heat. All of the glass waves are unique, have their own personality, and expression.

S U R F

A R T

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D A V I D

W I G H T

Let our family take care of your family One of the biggest challenges David has faced developing these waves is not holding onto a preconceived outcome. He views the process of creation as existing in the moment and applies this concept to all aspects of his life. For example, “if a sculpture falls on the ground and breaks, I can learn from it, let it go, and move on.”

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The glistening glass waves will be given as awards at Freesurf’s upcoming Manulele Awards to honor the achievements of Hawai'i's top watermen and women. Freesurf asked David what it meant to him to have his sculptures presented to Hawai'i's top surfers and he told us “it’s the highest honor of my career to date to have my wave sculptures represent the dedication, training, and connection to water that surfers on this level embody. Offering these trophies also pushes me to sculpt the best waves that I can.”

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“The sculptures are inspired by a lifetime of connection with water,” and what better way to honor the achievements of Hawai‘i’s top watermen and women’s inspiring performances and reflection of good energy than to be awarded one of David Wight's glass waves!

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Extending care across the Pacif ic

When state health officials asked for assistance last month in dealing with the measles outbreak in Samoa, Kahuku Medical Center nurses and staff quickly answered the call.

Friends and Family Taking Care of Friends and Family www.kmc-hi.org I 808-293-9221

MC nurses Diane Hale, Robyn Falemalu, Caridad Vila and Wilfred Husman were among the 55 Hawaii nurses and 10 doctors that made the trip to Samoa along with a support staff to deliver much-needed immunizations and health care.

Mahalo nui loa to these amazing nurses, local leadership and everyone throughout the extended Hawaii medical community for sharing their care and aloha.

Stuff We Like Kua `Aina Keeps Us Fueled 45 Years Later So you just had the most epic, mind-blowing session out at Lanis and you are ravenous.

This is not the time to screw around with trying that new eatery and, let’s be real, a blended-up bowl of fruit isn’t gonna cut it. For the sure-thing, head to Kua ‘Aina Sandwich and Burger, now in its 45th year of business! Built by surfer Terry Thompson for surfers, their classic beef burger with creative topping options including spicy chilis, savory bacon, or sweet grilled pineapple have been curing hanger since 1975. No meat? No problem! An avocado or eggplant sandwich will deliver the plant-based protein you crave. Stop in at their original location in Hale'iwa or find them whenever you crave a mouth-watering, all-American burger and fries on-island in Kapolei, or internationally in Japan, London, and Taiwan. As the longestrunning restaurant in Hale'iwa, Kua ‘Aina is guaranteed to deliver! www.kua-ainahawaii.com

Lava Line Your Ride Whether it's your work, surf, or play, life and your truck - can get dirty. Stop messing around and invest in protecting your truck from yourself. Get a fresh Lava Lining spray which will provide your truck bed, or entire truck body, with a textured matte sealant and protective coat. Then add mud, sand, salt, and let that carefree feeling wash over you knowing Lava Lining has got you covered.

Get it Right This Valentine’s Day Not sure what to get the lucky lady for Valentine’s Day? Check out our two fav jewelers: Kaleimaeole and Misha Hawai‘i.

These local designers offer elegantly understated designs reminiscent of a tropical Hawaiian sea. With shimmery gold or silver cuffs, earrings, bangles, and necklaces, each endowed with Tahitian pearls or sparkly gemstones, presenting her with that little gift box will make your Valentine’s Day unforgettable for all the right reasons. www.mishahi.com

Firestone Walker 805 Wall Mount Bottle Opener Because a bottle of the best brew without an opener is just cruel… Man-up and invest in the bottle opener the pros use. Brought to by the crew from Central California’s famed brewery, this wall mounted bottle opener will always be right where you left it whenever you are ready to pop open satisfying suds.

Order one online today. While you’re there, join the ranks of California Coast surfers like big wave charger Matt Becker and underground shaper Joseph Yee in becoming an Authenticos Union Member. Get 25% off your first online purchase, reap the benefit of ongoing discounts, plus exclusive invites to privately hosted Firestone Walker 805 events. Cheers to that! www.805beer.com

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C O M M U N I T Y

Gudauskas Brothers’ Positive Vibe Warriors Provide Youth with Scholarships to the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group Safety Summit

By Mara Pyzel Photos Sarah Lee

The crowd collectively held their breath as they watched the limp body of a young teen get rushed up the beach by lifeguards. As they began performing CPR, the grom’s friends paddled in. Big Island’s Diesel Butts was met at the shoreline by Sunset Beach’s Jake Maki, and together the concerned teens bolted up the beach to be by the boy’s side. We would later learn that Diesel was part of a group of boys in the water that day who helped save their friend’s life putting into action the life saving skills they learned just a week prior while attending the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group’s water safety training summit. In an interview with Freesurf during the summit, Jake commented, “I surf a lot of waves where people get injured, so eventually, you’ll have to step in and help out.” That “eventually” came sooner than Jake and his fellow groms had expected.

later, was healthy enough to be released. But for beachgoers, the event served as a reminder of just how crucial an understanding of ocean safety can be. Knowing this, two groups have been especially proactive - The Big Wave Risk Assessment Group (BWRAG) and Dane Gudausks and his brothers’ foundation Positive Vibe Warriors. In early December, Positive Vibe Warriors partnered with the BWRAG, granting scholarships to local groms to attend a two-day training course. “[My brothers and I] took the BWRAG class a couple of years ago,” said Dane. “It totally changed the way we were doing what we're doing, and how we were using the ocean. We realized that we were missing out on a huge part of it, just understanding safety […] because when it goes down, we’re going to be the ones who are the first responders, just by being in the lineup.”

The scary scene took place at the awards ceremony for the Billabong Pipe Masters when, mid-interview, Kelly Slater paused, noticing the lifeguards springing into action just down the beach. “Brian [Keaulana] was the person who came in on the ski and was directed by the kids using the signaling for where to go and how to respond,” said pro surfer and Positive Vibe Warrior co-founder Dane Gudauskas. “That was really helpful in saving those minutes for Brian.” The youngster was rushed away by ambulance and 22 stitches and a concussion

Dane Gudauskas and his brothers Tanner and Pat, grew up surfing competitively in Southern California. In response to the highs and lows that inevitably accompany competing, the trio created a “positive mantra” to live by. “People were gravitating towards the message,” remembers Dane. They soon launched their nonprofit Positive Vibe Warriors to share stoke, safety, and waves with budding surf cultures around the world. The brothers’ sponsor, Vans, showed its support for the movement, partnering with Positive Vibe Warriors for Stoke-

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O-Rama events to keep the nonprofit thriving. “[The Stoke-O-Ramas] allow us to have a platform to raise money to give back to youth water safety programs and we’ve done the surfboard drives. We’ve done three so far: for Jamaica, all of Africa, and Trinidad and Tobago. Those have been really fun.”

Their global reach has proven successful because Dane, Tanner, and Pat recognize the specific needs of each community. In both California and Hawai‘i, water safety is at the forefront. December’s training took place in the belly of the beast when it comes to big wave surfing: O‘ahu’s North Shore. Through an Instagram contest, Positive Vibe Warriors provided four stand-outs with scholarships: Diesel Storm Butts and Jake Maki, along with Bettylou Sakura (Hale'iwa) and Chrislyn Simpson-Kane (Maui), all attended the training. “We had to put in the work with our hands to learn more,” said Bettylou. “I gained knowledge to keep. And maybe I’ll help save a life. Hopefully [I’ll] never have to, but it’s always good to know,” stated the scholarship recipient. Though the training was an intensive multi-day hybrid of classroom learning and in-water education, the kids’ attention span matched that of the 50 adults attending the same training. “I think it empowered them more than anything,” remarked Dane. “They feel like they are a part of the community, part of the tribe and they want to be their best. And they had to apply for it, too, so I felt like that gave the kids something, you know, like, ‘This is something I want to do. I’m going to put my hand up for this opportunity.’”

The BWRAG’s motto is ‘Safety does not exist until you create it.’ which the group is doing, with help from highly qualified teachers including accomplished waterman Brian Keaulana, Danilo Couto, WSL Water Safety team member Ryan Hargrave, and big wave chargers Andrea Moller, Kohl Christensen, and Greg Long. “The organization just blows my mind with what they are teaching and how they are teaching it.

Those guys, I would consider the highest level waterman in the world, so it’s a real honor,” Dane said of the BWRAG. With the success of the scholarship program’s aid in incorporating more youth into the water safety training summit this year, the expansion of the youthfocused classes is something Positive Vibe Warriors has already begun ruminating on for future trainings with the BWRAG. “These are tools that everyone can use. There’s value in just being aware and looking out for one another you know?” said Dane. The nail-biting situation at Pipeline in December serves as a reminder to us all of the importance of water safety and the life-altering role of those with whom you share the lineup.

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IN D USTRY N O TES the subsequent waves washed over him. Fortunately, Wassel and others were able to revive him with CPR. Wertheimer did a short stint in the hospital and was later released.

Volcom rider Takayuki Wakita also suffered injuries after getting caught inside at Second Reef Pipe in late December. During the chaos of a big day at Pipe, his board hit him and the middle fin was lodged into his arm. He’s doing ok now, and thanks to the North Shore lifeguards for their quick response.

Maui’s Albee Layer suffered a concussion mid-December during the Jaws Big Wave Championship when a heavy lip hit him square on the head wiping him out. His inflatable vest tore, he threw up excessively, and later, in typical Layer fashion, he borrowed a friend’s vest and headed back out for a shorter session. The big wave surfer has since addressed a broader concern about the long term effects of concussions and brain injuries (CTE, in other words), that is the rarely-discussed reality of surf injuries. Luckily for Albee, he is on the up-and-up and already back in the water.

Mokulele Rider Kai Paula Wows at HIO

After the Surf N Sea Hale‘iwa International Open wrapped, it was unofficially determined that Junior winner Kai Paula is the newest charger to keep a pulse on. The 16-year-old rider, sponsored by Mokulele Airlines, island-hopped over to O‘ahu from his home on Maui, apparently packing his A-game in his carry-on. The grom was charging 10-12 ft. surf, carving into the faces of each barreling wave with gusto, brevity, and straight-up guts most of us lack. Other winners ripping at Hale‘iwa’s Ali‘i Beach Park that day included Eli Hanneman, who won the Open Men’s division and Bettylou Sakura, winner of the Open Women’s.

Honolua Surf Company Welcomes Newest Team Rider Abigail Balmus

Honolua Surf Company is excited to announce Maui up-and-comer Abigail Balmus has joined their team of ocean athletes. The 14-year-old surfer placed 1st overall in 2019’s HSA Maui Open Women’s division after competing in six events during the HSA Maui season. The grom placed 1st in her 14 and under age division too! But this young lady is just getting started!

Abigail has her sights set on more thrilling wave rides and has recently been under the mentorship of big wave pro Andrea Moller.

Keep your eyes peeled for more from this young surfer.

Several Injuries Hit the North Shore

With winter in full effect, nature has again proven its power. Waveinduced injuries have been prevalent, striking even those with a lifetime of training and experience. It was something that famed Mavericks, Jaws, and Waimea charger Greg Long reflected on recently at December’s Big Wave Risk Assessment Group safety training: “It’s the realization of how significant we are when it comes to the force of nature and the ocean and that we all have to be looking out for one another as the one human family we are.” Thankfully, the surfing ‘ohana has proven that they are watching out for each other—and that has saved lives.

The new year got off to a rocky start for big wave surfer Kohl Christensen, who underwent emergency brain surgery at Queen’s Hospital after bashing up against the reef, fracturing his skull surfing second reef Pipeline New Year’s Eve day.

Our thoughts are with him as he embarks on the road to recovery.

With Christensen being one of the main advocates for big wave safety awareness, his accident serves as a harsh reminder that we are all vulnerable, regardless of our experience and training.

Honolua Surf Company hosts the Maui H.S.A. For 20+ years, Honolua Surf Company has been the title sponsor of the Hawaii Surfing Association’s Legends of the Bay surf contest at Honolua Bay on the westerly side of Maui. World-renown as one of the best waves in the Northern hemisphere, Honolua Bay lives up to its longstanding reputation and the contest serves as an incredible opportunity for Maui's local surfers to surf Honolua’s waves with only a few others in the water. This gives competitors a chance to showcase their skills without having to negotiate the politics of wave selection in the typically crowded lineup. The “Legends of the Bay” holding period kicked off January 11, 2020 and runs through March 31, 2020.

Junior surfer Kiva Wertheimer expressed his gratitude to the North Shore Lifeguard Association and Dave Wassel, who were able to pull him to safety. The grom took the first wave of the set and wiped out, his leash catching on the reef as he was underwater. He was held under for an endless 40 seconds, unable to catch his breath as

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Kauai's Gavin Gillette surf's clean and smooth but also with just the right amount of flair to spice things up. Recently married to new wife Hutton, we can see the young man had absolutely zero pre-wedding jitters and just the opposite, hits some serious g-force, stepping forward strong with confidence and color!

Photo Mike Latronic