Freesurf Magazine / V16N12

Deep Season

+ Ben j i B r a n d + G a b ri el a B r y a n V 1 6 # 1 2

+ S u rvi vi n g a Ho l d D o w n Benji Brand Photo: Brent Bielmann

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TI

F R E E

P A R K I N G

Tiger Doerner, Pipeline Photo: Tai Van Dyke During one of the first major swells at Pipeline so far this season, young local charger Tiger Doerner threw all caution to the wind, pushing himself over the ledge on one of the nastiest Pipe beasts in recent memory.

T A B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

06 Free Parking 12 Editor’s Note 14 Benji Brand 24 Surviving Giants 34 Gabriela Bryan 38 Aperture 50 Laird Hamilton 54 Surf Art 58 News & Events 74 Stuff We Like 76 Industry Notes 82 Last Look

Cover Story Benji Brand, Teahupo’o

By Brent Bielmann

“Shooting fisheye photos in waves of consequence makes me feel alive; I love the rush it gives me. Benji’s incredible barrel riding skills and Teahupo‘o’s raw power compliment each other oh so well! Thanks guys! Aloha.” - Brent Bielmann

Photo: Christa Funk 8

E L I O L S O N | T H E H Y P E R F R E A K™ N O M A D B OA R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M | P H OTO G R A P H Y: S COT T Y H A M M O N D S

AVA I L A B L E AT H I C S H O P S

Deep Season

+ Benji Brand + Gabriela Bryan V 1 6 # 1 2

+ Surviving a Hold Down Benji Brand Photo: Brent Bielmann

#stillfree

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai‘i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic

East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395

Editor Andrew Oliver

Hawai‘i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395

Associate Editor Shannon Reporting

Staff Shooters Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Landon Hayashi, Jake Zielinski

Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Contributing Writers gOnzo, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Brian Bielmann, Ben Marcus, Keoki Saguibo, Taylor Phelps Copy Editor Mara Pyzel West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 Richard Galligan (949) 702-3476

Contributing Photographers Brent Bielmann, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, Jean Paul Van Swae, John Hook, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Shannon Reporting, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo, John Weaver, Will Weaver Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @ freesurfmag

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

E D I T O R ' S

By Andrew Oliver

Time - it is the measurement of our lives, and in many ways the fundamental basis of our very existence. Through the ages as our scientific understanding of the Earth’s cycle and relationship to our universe has evolved, so too has our concept of time. It is some pretty deep, sitting around a campfire, staring at the stars, pondering the meaning of life kind of stuff!

N O T E

Photo gOnzo

return to nature. The manipulation of these fractions of seconds are the source of our lasting memories.

In this issue we celebrate the diverse moments in surfing that endure the marathon of time. From a surfer like Benji Brand, whose mastery of these split seconds in terror-inducing waves has generated some of the most memorable rides in all of surfing over the last few years. To the freshly minted ISA World Junior Surfing Champions, Hawai’i’s Gabriela Bryan and Jackson Bunch, who’s monumental accomplishments are sure to remain vivid in their memories for the rest of their lives.

However, in our day-to-day experience, time becomes a rather arbitrary division that we set the starts, stops, and deadlines of our life to. The framework through which we compartmentalize our experience. But, rather than living in constant awe of the cosmic wonder of these divisions, what is of importance to us are the memories we place within this framework.

As we sit at the precipice of another major divide in time, the end of 2019 and the advance of a fresh new year, we get to reset the clock so to speak, and with a figurative blank slate seek out new waves, try new boards, make new friends, and garner the experiences that will stand the test of time. Here’s to another year in the surf.

For surfers, time is an especially funny thing. For one, surfing eats up most of it. We dedicate our lives to this one fleeting pursuit riding waves. It is in those brief moments of bliss that we find the opportunity to escape from our daily stresses, turn our minds off, and 12

MATTT MEOLA WEARING THE ROCKS N DOCKS HIP PACK

@ SALTY_ CREW | SALTY-CREW .COM

I N

P L A I N

S I GH T

BENJI BRAND T H E

FR E E S U R F

I N T E R V I E W

By Andrew Oliver

With social media’s infinite broadcast of the banal, the tragic, the triumphant, and everything in between, it’s nearly impossible for a moment of even the slightest significance to go unnoticed, unclaimed, and unpublished - especially in the world of modern professional surfing where selfpromotion has become synonymous with the occupation.

Very much a modern young adult with an active social media presence (albeit a reluctant one), 23-year-old Benji Brand has been able to quietly slip under the radar while establishing himself as one of the premier heavy wave riders on the planet and a true throwback to the now antiquated notion of “letting your surfing do your talking.” And Brand’s surfing has spoken loud and clear garnering some major attention and awards over the last few years including 2015 GoPro of the World, 2017 WSL Hawai‘i Regional Champion, 2018 Surfline Wave of the Winter Outstanding Performance, and the 2019 Rip Curl Padang Padang Cup Champion, to name a few. While Brand would prefer to allow his surfing to speak for itself, he was more than gracious to share a few words with Freesurf Mag.

Christa Funk

HI DD E N

gOnzo

You had a pretty unusual upbringing. Will you describe what it was like growing up?

I was born in Cape Town, South Africa, and I grew up between O‘ahu and South Africa.

My dad got a property here in Hawai‘i when I was six years old. Since then, we’ve spent a lot of time in Hawai‘i and I spent most of my childhood surfing here. I went to Sunset Beach Elementary when I was young and then I went back to South Africa and finished high school. From about 17 years old and onward I've been back here in Hawai‘i.

I think I had an awesome upbringing! I was exposed to different places around the world throughout my childhood. That may be why I'm so comfortable both here [in Hawai‘i], in South Africa, and all over the globe. I grew up with a lot of friends in Hawai‘i and in South Africa. It feels like I have two homes, but I'd say my heart is probably more and more in Hawai‘i. This is home nowadays.

Benji has really come into his own over the last two years. He's got this momentum.

And, we are starting to really connect with each other on his boards and his designs.

When did competition come into the picture for you?

And, I think it's showing in his surfing. I love seeing him riding the boards and,

Growing up I did all the HASAs and NSSAs here on O‘ahu from when I was seven or eight years old and those were some of the best times of my life. Out of it grew a lot of friendships and I developed a real love for surfing. I loved competing while I was growing up, but it's kind of taken a different path now. My love for surfing has gone beyond competing. Now, it's nice just to enjoy good waves without crowds.

situations. He doesn't make too many mistakes and that's something special. You will

and what he does, and the ways he's taking off and putting himself in these heavy

see a lot of guys that just are just hellman, really charging and going for it. But, they're just paying for it over and over again. Of course, Benji's has had his share of wipeouts, but he's got this uncanny knack of just staying on his board, of being in the right place at the right time, placing it critically, but in the spot. He's got the whole package.

- Eric Arakawa, Veteran shaper, Brand’s board sponsor

Keoki

But growing up in the NSSAs, there was an incredibly high level of surfing and I was competing with guys like Seth and Josh Moniz, and Imai DeVault. In the Open Men’s division we had guys like Dusty Payne, Clay Marzo, and Tonino Benson, so we had some gnarly guys to look up to. And the generation just above that was John John Florence, Zeke Lau, and Keanu Asing. They all definitely pushed our level.

In the last few years, it seems like the generation you grew up with (Seth and Josh Moniz, Imai, etc.) have really come into your own, in your own ways.

Among the group of friends I grew up with, we've kind of all gone in different directions and I think all those directions are amazing.

If getting to the CT and competing and

16

You have really established yourself in heavy waves, and at such a young age.

When did this infatuation with gnarly surf take hold? Was it there from the beginning or were you getting pulled out there by older surfers?

It was a natural progression - growing up and being a product of my environment. Just by being here, and if you have that type of personality that enjoys the thrill of a really good or big wave, then it's just in you and it comes together naturally. No one has told me to do it or anything like that, it's just what I love to do. I find myself psyched on those kinds of waves and I find joy out of it.

It must be cool now that you've been really going at it for a few years to where you have

Seems like your program is paying off pretty well. We probably shouldn’t be giving away all your secrets.

Wait, actually don't put this stuff in. [laughs] It seems like you're in a bit of a conundrum because you have all the ability and experience to be at the forefront of freesurfing, but it seems these days that goes hand in hand with broadcasting yourself, which doesn't really appeal to you. But then, paradoxically, you've gotten some of the craziest GoPro clips and won a string of awards for your freesurfing caught on camera. How do you square that circle? [laughs]

winning is what fires you up, then that's awesome. Or, if have a pure love for surfing and you want to get really good waves and just enjoy the ocean for what it is and kind of enjoy it for yourself, that's awesome, too. It's really cool to see my friends going down their own different avenues.

How have you gone about finding your own path?

After graduating from the junior ranks a few years ago, I had a few good results in the Vans Triple Crown, the HIC event at Sunset, and the Pipe Masters, and from there I decided to give the QS a bit of a go. I did the QS for a full year just to see if it fired me up, and if I did well I’d have my chance to qualify for the CT. On the QS, I found that we travelled to really, really bad waves. I kind of expected that to an extent, but it was just chipping away at my love for surfing, and it also ate away a lot of my money. In retrospect, all of the money I've made or the successes that I’ve had have come from freesurfing avenues or just surfing good waves in Hawai‘i. I kind of just survived off the winnings from the GoPro of the World Contest I won a few years back, some of the [Surfline] Wave of the Winter awards, and by making some heats here in the Vans Triple Crown. That's kind of what has sustained me through life. It seems like that’s what has been working for me. I'd like to focus on surfing good waves and hopefully keep that going for as long as I can.

go and get a couple of waves. So, I started paddling out super early in the morning. I hate crowds and that was my way to deal with the intimidation factor, that combination of really gnarly waves and a lot of gnarly surfers. I would paddle out there in the dark, hopefully catch a couple of waves and then go in by about eight o'clock because I knew my day was done. I don't think I ever really got a wave in the evening at Pipe just because it's way too crowded. I get too rattled. I just go for those morning sessions, try to find my windows.

Well, the GoPro stuff started because I was going to Namibia a lot and I was super psyched on that wave; using the GoPro was just about capturing the waves because you couldn't really get land clips of it. So, I just wanted to see my waves and the GoPro was just starting to come out then and become

proven yourself in the lineup. Now you’re not some unknown grom scratching around the lineup; people are recognizing, ‘Oh, it’s Benji paddling. He's more than capable of making this’. I'm sure you've earned a certain level of respect, not that you get any wave you want, but guys are going to give you the benefit of the doubt if you’re in the spot.

No, I’m definitely not getting any wave I want. [laughs] It's weird for me because I'm someone who hates crowds and surfing with other people. Starting to paddle out at Pipe more was hard for me because I actually hit my head on the reef really bad when I was 17 and I didn’t surf Pipe for a year after that.

Then, obviously, you constantly see how good Pipe is and I just really wanted to give it a 18

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Tim McKenna

a trend. It was great using the GoPro and reliving my waves, because those waves were just too long to capture from land.

So, that wasn't really about filming myself, per se, so much as I just wanted to see my waves over. I don’t really like to film myself or talk to the camera or be a blog guy.

It kind of sucks nowadays because it doesn't seem like you can just be the real deal and make it on that alone - you have to be shamelessly self-promoting, too. It's a hard place to be in for sure. I think you just have to learn that skill in a way that you don't sell yourself out completely and you can still keep it real. But you have to be somewhat promoting yourself these days; no one's really going to do it for you.

What’s next for you? Are there some big adventures on your list that you haven't done yet?

There are a few different places that I'd love to go to that haven't really been seen before, but I can’t tell you where they are. [laughs] Aside from that, I'm trying to get

In serious surf, if you flip you’re going. That’s what's happening with boards being so short these days. You’ve gotta turn and start so far underneath that once you turn around, you can't pull back, you’ve already committed just by turning around, nevermind paddling, it's crazy. And the person who is probably one of the very best in the world at that right now is Benji Brand. He is better at that than a lot of people even realize, surfing both directions.

He’s figured it out, and at Teahupoo this year, during some of the big swells, he was the guy, period. Even the local guys were saying it.

Everyone's scratching over waves and Benji's turned around going! The very best are on another level of what normal humans are capable of doing and Benji is right there at the top.

- Rainos Hayes, Billabong Surf Team Manager

MIKALA JONES

BEACH FREELY

I N

P L A I N

S I G H T

/

BE N JI

BR A ND

some clips together for this new movie coming out, Snapt 4. This is my first movie project I’ve ever been a part of. Hopefully, I can get some good stuff from Fiji or a good Tahiti swell or something like that, I'd like to try and get some clips from places like that for the movie. I guess the “best section” in the movie wins $40,000. I'm pretty sure it will almost be impossible to win because you've got guys like Marzo and some other gnarly guys in this movie. But, since this is the first movie I've been a part of, I’m going to try my best to get some good clips in there!

It seems that you have a knack for winning these non-traditional awards, so you never know, right?

Yeah, you never know. But, that one looks pretty out of reach. [laughs] These guys are next level, doing back flips and stuff, and Clay doing his laybacks in the barrel for, like, a minute long. I'm not quite there... I just don't want to make a bad part! [laughs] pau

Christa Funk

H I DDEN

SU RV I V I NG GI A NT S

A B I G W AV E S E R I E S B Y S H A N N O N R E P O RT I N G

TA L K STORY W ITH PION EER S SH A N E D OR I A N & K EA L A K ENN EL LY

waves big or small by claiming the

The sport has come a long way

We caught up with some of the most

from their summer slumber, as

throne with home court advantage.

since the Hawaiian kings and queens

courageous chargers in the Hawaiian

thunder and lightning electrify the

For surf fans worldwide—especially

first paddled out to Waimea Bay—

Island chain to talk story for Freesurf

northern shores of the Hawaiian

those dedicated ones who camped

before leashes, impact suits, and

Magazine’s new big wave series

Islands. The rainy season warns us

out on Waimea Beach waiting for

“Instatweetergram.” Today, there are

“Surviving Giants.” They shared their

of potential for record-breaking

the early morning horn—it was

two big wave competitions calling

insight on the dangers and emotional

storms on the horizon, and all the

entertainment at its best.

not only the strongest watermen out

roller coaster of being a big wave

to the Bay, but also waterwomen. The

surfer, how to survive a two-wave

training leading up to this very moment is finally put to the test.

As we look back on recent memories

Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational

hold down, fitness and nutrition tips,

Shapers sand down last minute

of gigantic surf, there are a handful

just announced four women in the

and their greatest fears—the latter

orders as buoy readings rise, purple

of local stand-outs who never

lineup amongst the men, and the Red

of which many of them struggled to

blobs igniting the storm graphs.

disappoint when it comes to putting

Bull Queen of the Bay is calling 24

answer, which made us wonder: Are

This, folks, is big wave season.

on a show. Given the pure numbers

ladies to the lineup in the first-ever

big wave surfers fearless, or do they

Hawaiian winters are always exciting

of big wave days on hand around

big wave event for wahine. Times

simply thrive off of the adrenaline

for big wave enthusiasts, but not

the Hawaiian Islands every year, it’s

are changing, equipment is evolving,

of the unknown? Rather, are they

all seasons are treated equally. El

no surprise that some of the world’s

and equal pay has set a new standard

more scared of risking it all, or not

Niño winters, in particular, tend

most celebrated big wave elite belong

for opportunity in the sport. The fall

taking enough risk? This interview

to light up the Pacific Islands with

to this island chain. From founding

of the Big Wave World Tour under

series will give you a glimpse into the

more frequency and strength,

fathers like Big Island’s Shane Dorian

the management of the World Surf

unique big wave headspace and what

guaranteeing multiple XXL swells

(who influenced the invention of the

League only a few weeks before

it takes to survive.

throughout the season and even

inflation vest), to Pe’ahi Challenge

the 2019-2020 season opener was a

the possibility of record-breaking

domination by Billy Kemper, Maui’s

shock to the system, with only the

To kick off the “Surviving Giants”

size. The Eddie Aikau Big Wave

progressive hell-men: Albee Layer,

Pe’ahi Challenge event left on the

series, Freesurf Mag talks story with

Invitational, arguably the sport’s

Ian Walsh, and Kai Lenny, to the

schedule for big wave paddle-surfing.

two of the pioneers of the sport—

most prestigious competition, last

pioneers of women’s big wave

But hope is not lost! For how far the

Big Island Shane Dorian, and Kaua‘i

ran in 2014 during our most recent

surfing (like Keala Kennelly and

sport has come, we’re sure the future

charger Keala Kennelly. These living

El Niño season. And it was epic,

Paige Alms), to a single-fin enthusiast

has plenty in store.

legends have paved the way for so

better than epic: it was historic!

born into Waimea royalty (Emily

much of the momentum we see

The Bay was closing out and, boy,

Erickson), there’s a plethora of

today. Respect is due.

was it huge. Local hero John John

big wave talent bred in the Pacific

Florence proved his versatility in

Islands.

Bruno Lemos

Sleeping giants begin to awaken

Big Wave Pioneer Shane Dorian INFLATION VESTS , TRAINING TIPS , & “DAD STUFF” Hometown, age - Kona, Big Island of Hawai‘i, 47

I got inspired by my friends that were into

Biggest fear - Being a terrible parent.

surfing big waves. I always looked up to

Morning routine - Healthy food, surfing, and doing simple “dad stuff ” to get my kids ready for the day.

Current trends in big wave equipment - Slightly smaller boards, and different fin designs.

Shane Dorian a lot;I thought he was the craziest big wave surfer ever, as a kid, and I always wanted to be just like him.”

How did the idea of an inflation vest come to fruition?

The idea came to be as a result of a near-drowning experience I had at Mavericks in 2010. The vests make surfing big waves much safer by essentially making it very hard to drown.

- Torrey Meister

What kind of mental preparation is required to survive a heavy situation like that?

I think lots of experience is the best mental preparation. Also, training a lot specifically for holding your breath in intense situations helps a lot.

Tell us about your winter surfboard quiver.

This winter looks a little different in terms of not being focused on Jaws so much. I have really fun new

Keoki

boards to ride, but mostly smaller boards—a couple of twin fins as well.

26

Tai Van Dyke

As I started traveling as a professional surfer right near the end of high school, Shane Dorian was a really big influence of mine. He’s been a mentor through the entirety of that time and still is to this day today, not only as far as surfing goes.

I look to him for leadership in the water and also outside: as a father and as a husband, everything he does he seems to do with a lot of class. He’s been instrumental in my development.” - Ian Walsh

Keoki

What do you look forward to most after paddling in to shore?

Food… I eat a lot of meals out of a blender - just throw a bunch of yummy, healthy stuff in there. Lots of fat, fish oil, avocados, MCT oil.

Training tips: Find something you actually can be consistent with and do that. Train for health and fitness, not aesthetics.

Heroes / mentors / role models: My mother, and close friends who are great parents and support their communities.

What does the future of big wave surfing look like?

Heavier and safer. The young guys and girls coming up are hungrier than ever, so it will be fun to see where it goes!

Inflation vests have definitely changed the sport, for sure. Thank God we have them, and thanks to Shane [Dorian] for inventing them. The fact that we haven’t lost anyone since we’ve had [the vests] says a lot right there... Having those things has definitely upped the level of what guys want to do. They feel pretty comfortable, which is kind of scary, too, because now guys are going harder and bigger than ever.” - Torrey Meister

28

BIG WAV E WOR L D C H A MPION K EA L A K ENN EL LY E Q UA L PA Y, T H E E D D I E , & J A W S R E D E M P T I O N Hometown, Age: Hanalei, Kaua`i,

invited me as an alternate for the first

Your head injury at Teahupo’o

I sat in the most critical spot and

41

time in 2017 (an entire year before

was one of the most seen images

took critical drops, knowing that

Biggest fear - Getting paralyzed

WSL announced equal pay). I think

in surfing; how did you find the

if I didn’t, then I (and females as a

or dying. Losing people I love.

it’s also in line with the Hawaiian

courage to surf there again?

whole) would get maligned for not

Getting to the end of my life without

culture because back in the day in

accomplishing my goals.

Hawai‘i, men and women surfed

I’m assuming you mean the one

do... Let’s pray the conditions aren’t

together.

where I split my face open... That

as treacherous as last year. I’m still a

was so gnarly and the recovery l—

bit traumatized from that experience,

Congrats on being invited to The

putting it all on the line like the men

Eddie Aikau. That’s so exciting!

Closest near-death experience:

both physical and mental—took a

as were the people who love me that

Years ago someone asked me,

Well, getting caught inside of that

long time. I don’t really know how I

were watching, like my partner and

‘Would you ever want to be invited

60-footer with no CO2 and no leash

got the courage to go back out there.

my family.

to compete in The Eddie?’ And my

in the last five minutes of the Pe‘ahi

I can only attribute it to extreme

answer was, ‘Yes, but only if I was

contest last year was definitely one.

FOMO [fear of missing out].

invited because of my skills and

The other was the first time I surfed

accomplishments, not because I’m

big Teahupo‘o—the two-wave hold

What’s your mindset going into

Most big waves are just a big drop

the token female and I definitely

down was very scary. When I got

this season’s Jaws Challenge

and then they kind of fade out

don’t want to take the spot of a male

that bomb at Teahupo‘o that won the

as defending champion?

into the channel. At Jaws, you

competitor who is more deserving.’

XXL “Barrel of the Year” in 2015

The mindset is redemption. I stacked

have a gnarly drop and then can

It is with the utmost honor and

[…] I got vaporized by the foam

it on every wave in last year in the

set your rail. It offers the potential

gratitude that I accept my invitation

ball in the west bowl and slammed

final and with a 20ft at 20 second

for barrels and critical rides in

each year and I also feel an incredible

down so hard on the reef that it

jacking swell with nuking wind, the

the pocket. It’s unlike any other

obligation and responsibility each

blew my helmet off and pinned me

conditions were tough for anyone,

big wave spot I can think of.

year to earn it. And as for the Eddie

on the reef on my back. It almost

male or female. I chose to sit on

inviting more females into the

beat me to death for sure. I still have

the outside where the guys sit and

What does it mean to you to

event [this season], I think it is very

nightmares from some of these.

take off in the pit. I felt incredible

represent the LGBT community?

pressure to make sure I charged:

I’m really proud to represent the

are multiple peaks and sections.

Dooma

progressive of the Aikau’s. They

Jaws is set up like an arena, and there

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B I G W AV E W O R L D C H A M P I O N K E A L A K E N N E L L Y LGBT community. They are very underrepresented so anytime a professional athlete, actor, politician, or public figure can come out and be visible as an LGBT person it is very uplifting for the entire community.

It’s especially empowering for the LGBT youths that are struggling with their sexual identity and how scary the coming out process can be.

How can equal pay positively influence local community?

Equal pay would be positive for every community on this planet!

When 50% of the world’s population is being subjugated, that’s a problem. When you pay women equally, you [support] their financial independence. Young girls have been sold this bullsh*t Cinderella

excited to see the women be able to

Championship Tour to qualify.

story that they need to find a Prince

What does the future of big wave

challenge themselves. I think the fans

The Hawai‘i community can help by:

Charming to rescue them. What

surfing look like?

are going to be stoked!

1. Speaking up to the Hawai‘i City

It’s uncertain right now because

and County about the permitting for

we keep losing big wave events.

How can the Hawai‘i community

Hale‘iwa and Sunset to be extended

It’s difficult to attract sponsors to

support equal opportunity?

one more day to allow for the

fund big wave events when there

We used to have a women’s Triple

women to have an event. I plan on

is no guarantee if they will run. It’s

if we empower women to rescue themselves? Women wouldn’t have to rely on finding and marrying a rich husband to survive in this world…

I want to live in a world where

Crown here in

launching a

complicated when you require a

young girls can aspire to be things

Hawai‘i, and

petition about

major storm system to occur in a

like professional athletes as a career,

now there are

this on a site

certain time frame in order to have

because it's not just about equal

no pro events

like change.

a big wave contest. I remain hopeful

pay; it's about equal opportunity.

for women

org so we can

that some day very soon someone is

on O‘ahu’s

track support

going to find a way to package and

If the Red Bull Queen of the

North Shore

for women’s

market big wave surfing properly, and

Bay ever runs (despite the

(other than a

events;

then it is going to blow up because,

unpromising holding period), it

junior event).

2. Come to

let’s be real, it’s got to be one of the

would be historic for women’s

There used to

women’s

most exciting sports in the world!

surfing. How could that event

be a women’s

events and

With the right marketing and support

help the sport?

division in the

cheer on the

behind it, it could only get bigger

It would be monumental. It would

WSL events

athletes. One

and better; and in regards to women

be the first women’s big wave event

at Sunset and

of the big

in the sport, we will only excel in

on the North Shore ever, and with

Hale‘iwa.

excuses “the

performance—especially if given the

it being a women’s stand-alone

Members

powers that

support and opportunity!

event, all the focus will be on the

of the local

be” give for

women athletes. It’s going to allow

community

perpetuating

women big wave surfers who don’t

complained

qualify for the WSL event at Jaws

that the permit for Hale‘iwa was too

that women’s surfing doesn’t have

Be sure to check out future

the opportunity to compete in a

many days, so WSL’s permit got cut

as much of a fan base as the male

installments of Surviving Giants:

big wave contest. Just to be able to

from five days down to four. It takes

athletes. Let’s change that and help

A Big Wave Series by Shannon

surf Waimea Bay with only a few

four days to run the men’s and only

get those numbers up;

Reporting, in the next issue of

other people in the water is going to

one day to run the women’s, so the

3. If you are a business owner

Freesurf Magazine.

be such a huge opportunity for the

women got completely cut out of the

and you are in a position to

women. I think when women athletes

event. This makes it incredibly hard

sponsor an athlete, consider

are given the chance, they end up

for any aspiring female athletes from

sponsoring a female athlete.

surprising people so I’m really

Hawai‘i that wants to get on the WSL

inequality is

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GABRIELA B R YA N

Andrew Oliver

W A H I N E

By Andrew Oliver

Kaua‘i’s Gabriela Bryan has been steadily making her mark on the junior circuit for several years, most recently claiming a Gold Medal in the Girls U18 division at the ISA World Junior Championships in Huntington Beach. The 17-year-old surfs with power and style well beyond her years and is the rare junior surfer who will transition smoothly into the pro ranks. While being an outer-island surfer can hide you from the spotlight to a degree, Bryan has been consistently stacking major results in the last few years making it clear that she will be a force to be reckoned with for years to come. Freesurf spoke with Bryan from Australia where she is competing in the final Qualifying Series events of the year.

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G A B R I E L A

Age - 17

B R Y A N

You seem very at ease when you compete, especially for someone your age. Have you always been like that or is it something you’ve worked on?

That is definitely something that I have worked on. I have surfed so many heats in my life, so I am always learning and trying to improve my surfing and heat strategy in every way that I can.

Hometown Kilauea, Kaua‘i First Waves Hanalei Pier, Age 5 First Contest & Victory - The Irons’ Brothers Pinetrees Classic, Age 6 Favorite Surfers - Carissa Moore, Bethany Hamilton, and Seabass [Sebastian Zietz]

Hey, World Champ! Has that title started to sink in yet?

Yep, it’s a pretty amazing feeling!

I know winning an ISA Junior World Title is a goal you’ve had for some time; what was it like to actually achieve it?

Winning gold at ISA has been a goal that I’ve had for a few years now, and to finally achieve something that I had been working so hard for is the best feeling ever! Especially when I get to represent Hawai‘i while doing it.

This is your third year competing in the ISA World Junior Championships; what keeps bringing you back?

The ISA World Juniors is such a unique event, especially being a part of a team because surfing in usually such an individual sport. So it’s really cool to experience the team aspect.

This win must be a huge confidence boost as you start to focus more on the qualifying series. Any lessons that you’ll be carrying over to the QS? I always learn so much when I compete. The ISA World Juniors is one of the most challenging events with so many talented juniors. Knowing that I can win a world title with surfers from 44 different countries really gives me a lot of confidence.

Is there anyone that you train with on a regular basis?

I have been training with Kahea Hart for about seven years now. He has taught me so much and has been one of my biggest supporters since the very beginning. I have also been training a lot with Dustin Barca when I am at home, and he constantly pushes me to work harder and is one of the best uncles ever!

You had another important victory this year, winning the trials into the Freshwater Pro; what was that experience like?

Surfing and being at the wave pool was one of the best weeks of my life! Just having the opportunity to surf my first CT at Kelly Slater’s wave pool was an unforgettable experience.

The format for that event is pretty unique. What was it like competing against the other women on the CT? It was super cool to surf in that format because it was like competing against everyone on Tour, not just who is in your heat. I learned so much from being in the same atmosphere as all my heroes; it really motivated me to work harder to make the CT as soon as I can.

This has been a big year for you.

What are your goals for next year and beyond?

I plan to keep on working hard, improve my surfing, and try my best to make it onto the World Tour.

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WA I K E L E H YAT T A L A

R E G E N C Y

M O A N A

K O K O

WA I K I K I

C E N T E R

M A R I N A

W I N D WA R D

L A H A I N A

M A L L

G AT E WAY

LocalMotion

H A W A I

. com

Jamie O'Brien Photo: gOnzo

A P E R T U R E

Tanner Hendrickson Photo: Jason Shibata

Mason Ho and Mikey O’Shaughnessy Photo: Keoki

Imai Devault Photo: Mike Latronic

Eithan Osbourne Photo: Mike Latronic

Billy Kemper Photo:gOnzo

Mikey Bruneau Photo: Brent Bielmann

Kaito Kino Photo:gOnzo

Noa Deane Photo: Tai Vandyke

Erik Aeder

LAIRD HAMILTON

A Tr u e S u r f i n g E n t r e p r e n e u r

By Alexandra Kahn

he surf community might know Laird Hamilton as a pioneer in tow-in surfing, stand-up paddle boarding, and hydrofoil boarding. However, Hamilton is making waves in a whole other world as well- natural food products. As is the story with many clean snack items, the invention process typically comes from the creator making a personal version of the product for his sport (like Clif Bar), sharing with friends, noticing an interest, and perfecting the formula to sell. Laird Superfood has a similar tale. Laird had always utilized nutrition as an additional tool to help him perform better in the water.

Hamilton’s friend Paul, who is now the CEO of Laird Superfood, had the vision to take the coconut creamer product Hamilton was already using in his coffee and sharing with friends, and work with it to create a sellable product. The product line grew out of Laird’s passion and mission to continually improve his health and fitness.

Although Hamilton had no previous experience in food and never imagined he would be such a successful entrepreneur, he had created a product that not only satisfied multiple needs but was able to draw on his surf community ties to build support for the product line early on.

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Luke Swanson

Levi Young

Diego Ferri

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Jackson Bunch

Cody Young

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Cole Alves

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Surfing, like other “extreme sports” did not start as a healthconscious, fitness training activity.

However, as mainstream media has popularized the sport,

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S U R F I N G

E N T R E P R E N E U R

Erik Aeder

In only a few short years, Laird Superfood went from a concept to a product line, to even securing bulk deals with Costco—the growth rate is truly astonishing. Like other companies born from experience, passion, and need, Laird and his wife Gabby contribute to every product created under the Laird Superfood brand name. The dynamic duo stands behind each product and needs to “not only love the taste but [they must] agree with the ingredients,” Hamilton tells Freesurf. They put their beliefs into the product line, refusing to compromise on quality and forever standing by their mission to only use wholefood ingredients rather than any extracts or “natural flavors.” On brand with this mission, Hamilton tells us, “It’s incredibly important to us that our business operates with the most responsible and ethical practices possible. That will always be a core pillar for the company. At the same time, I want to give people clean products that enable them to perform at their best no matter what they’re doing. The amazing thing about our creamers and coconut waters is that you’re already drinking coffee and water throughout your day. By just making one little swap from your sugary latte or sports drink to using whole-food ingredients, you’re setting yourself up for success in a much bigger way.”

In addition to the thoughts expressed by Laird, Gabby, and in-house R&D team, Laird Superfood utilizes their customer base, or in Hawaiian terms, ohana, for input on new flavors and products.

H A M I L T O N

Erik Aeder

L A I R D

bringing in more money to allocate towards competitions, salaries, sponsorships, endorsement deals, and media opportunities, the sport has become legitimized on a massive scale and will even be in the 2020 Olympics. With this shift in surf culture, there has also been a shift in the nutrition and fitness mentality, because the surfers have recognized that they are also athletes and their physical health might be the make-it break-it factor in a multitude of situations. Laird has always been one of the surfers leading this wave. He says now of his fellow surfers, “guys are training intelligently and are informed about what foods will contribute to better health and performance.”

These days, Laird and Gabby split their time between Malibu and Kauai, but frequently visit Laird Superfood headquarters in Sisters, Oregon. He still surfs at every opportunity available, “if it's good we go out for five hours,” he tells us. His story is nothing short of inspiring as he has been able to pursue many challenging dreams successfully.

What his success has taught us at Freesurf is how important it is to combine passion with a career, so it does not feel as much like work. Laird tells us, “Work hard and recognize how fortunate you are to have good people around you. I tend to be attracted to businesses that are a real extension of myself or my lifestyle. Then, whatever the project is, it feels like a natural extension of me as a person.”

The success of Laird Superfood, however sweet it may be, will never compare to the success he feels from surfing because surfing provides him with “something nothing else can” and he is “always a surfer first.”

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S U R F

OD I

A R T

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SCHLOS S B E R G The SurfAid Cup Series Artist

By Taylor Phelps

Odile ‘Odi’ Schlossberg grew up in Buenos Aires, Argentina, spending vacations along the Uruguay coastline where she developed an irreplaceable passion for the ocean. “We’d spend our summers in Punta del Este, where I learned how to surf and became immersed in the surf culture.” Odi’s pleasant experiences on the peninsula of Uruguay encompassed deep friendships, family expeditions and surf trips, which heavily influenced her artwork.

Surfing, the ocean, and seascapes became a common theme reflected through her art.

When she wasn’t vacationing in Uruguay, she lived in the electrifying city of Buenos Aires that homes almost 3 million people and Argentina’s capital. Although Odi was born and raised there, she felt disconnected from the constant buzz of life in the city and sought comfort in her quiet thoughts of waves breaking on the shore. Her headspace translated to her art, where she freely expressed her connection with the ocean.

At the age of 4 years old, Odi began painting, where repetition and practice slowly

became second nature. She first realized the tremendous impact art had on her life in high school at 17. Odi majored in art with the compelling intent to combine both of her passions: the ocean and art.

“I looked up to big brands, hoping to one day collaborate with them as an artist (and surfer). I found some small jobs in the surf industry in Argentina and Uruguay, and from then on I pursued opportunities to combine art, design, and surfing.” Odi’s art has developed and refined over the years. She identifies that she’s learned from every single piece of artwork, especially with paintings as fluid as waves. Artistically, she experiments with techniques and line work, but as a surfer, she intensely studies the ocean.

“Sometimes I spend time onshore observing breaking waves and how their energy dissipates, paying attention to the movement of water. When I travel, I observe local conditions and unique characteristics.

Mixing media and working with different

materials enabled me to explore the process of representing water in different ways.”

Odi believes observation and research are two of the most authentic ways to paint the ocean, both of which are key elements she implemented when developing the 2019 SurfAid Cup Series—the signature fundraiser for SurfAid globally, in which eight surf competitions are held in the United States and Australia. This tag-team event is open to both longboarders and shortboarders, who must raise funds to compete. Another element that makes this contest unique is that both teams are comprised of four amateur surfers and one pro; the team that fundraises the most money gets the first pick from an impressive line-up of pro surfers and local legends. Odi was first introduced to this incredible event when she volunteered for the Santa Cruz SurfAid Cup back in 2018.

When she was asked to create the artwork the following year, she had an inspired heart and a clear vision.

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even office interiors, and she’s not stopping there! “I’d love to produce the artwork for the next Molokai2Oahu race (and possibly race it too). Through art, I want to encourage and support the will, determination, endurance, physical and psychological challenge of that race, and connection to the ocean. All of which I advocate for our daily lives on land, too.”

Upon developing the vibrant art series, Odi first determined how she wanted to adequately represent each surf spot.

She planned to find an icon that uniquely identified each surf break where the contest was held. “I [identified] elements that presented textures, unique coastal conditions, cliffs or beacons that would be unique to each spot.” Other spots required more research, but the goal was the same, to ultimately creatively represent each surf break with a calming sense of familiarity.

Each custom design perfectly emulated the essence of each location and surf break, even down to the exact shape of the wave and how it breaks.

With beauty comes chaos and upon developing the series, came many challenges. “[This project] pushed me to find different ways to characterize textures, and visual balance in the pieces. I found myself representing spots that had to be identified, so there was another layer of responsibility to each piece.”

Odi’s experience with the SurfAid Cup has been humbling and empowering. “Through SurfAid, I am part of a greater force with a

Continually pursuing collaboration with major surf brands in the United States, Odi also aspires to portray the unique conditions of remote destinations as a way to bring awareness, inspiration, and support. Lastly, she plans to join a group of talented street artists in Honolulu. This street art activist group makes “the city feel even more vibrant and alive” and Odi deeply desires to be a part of this “amazing movement that enriches the identity of the city.”

much larger goal, where creating art has evolved to hold a much deeper purpose.

Contributing to this larger scale change has proven that we all [can] contribute, regardless of our resources. This year to date, collaboratively we've raised $350,000, which will help set up the infrastructure and sanitation systems for over 10 villages in remote areas in the Mentawai Islands, Nias Island, Sumbawa, and Sumba.”

Odi’s art has been featured on surfboards, fundraising campaigns, merchandise, and

Even as a world-traveler and a globe-trotting surfer, Odi hasn’t had the opportunity to surf every break she’s painted. It’s apparent that she desperately craves the coastal winds and the spray of the saltwater, but she figures “if you can’t surf them, [you might as well] paint them.”

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E V E N T S

ISA / Ben Reed

N E W S

The final day of competition kicked off on the south side of Huntington Beach Pier with a decrease in swell, but classic, clean conditions to determine the World Champions.

After a morning of all Main Event Finals and Repechage Finals, the competition arrived at the highly anticipated Grand Finals to write the next chapter of the history books and identify the future stars of the sport.

Team Hawaii followed USA with the Team Silver Medal, an incredible feat for such a young team. Riding a wave of momentum behind the individual Gold Medal performances of Jackson Bunch in Boys U-16 and Gabriela Bryan in Girls U-18 along with an impressive Bronze Medal finish for Betty-Lou Sakura Johnson in Girls U-16.

Team USA

of USA has been insane!” said Poulos.

“Everyone is down on the beach screaming for me.”

Team USA last won the Gold in 2017, nearly repeating as World Champions in 2018, but narrowly coming up short behind a first-time Gold Medal performance from Team Japan.

Team USA’s return to the top of global junior surfing in 2019 is their third Gold, first winning the Team Title in 2015.

ISA / Sean Evans

The VISSLA ISA World Junior Surfing Championship held in “Surf City USA” Huntington Beach, CA from October 26 November 3, saw eight days of world-class surfing from well over 300 of the top U-18 surfers from 44 nations with Team USA earning the Team Gold Medal. Team USA was propelled by an impressive five individual medals, highlighted by a Gold in the Boys U-18 Division for Dimitri Poulos. “The support

Jackson Bunch

ISA / Sean Evans

Future Stars of Surfing Earn Gold at the VISSLA ISA World Junior Surfing Championship Bettylou Sakura Johnson

“It’s pretty awesome to win gold,” said Bunch. “I was reviewing the past champions of this event and I couldn’t believe how many people on (the World Surf League Championship) tour had won this event. I am super psyched to win it and hopefully I can be like one of them.” Hawaii’s Bunch put on a show of domination. In a heat where most competitors were struggling to find waves, Bunch was in tune with the ocean and matched the event-high heat total with 17 points, showing an array of rail and aerial maneuvers. Picking up where Bunch left off, Kaua’i’s Gabriela Bryan kept the Gold Medal momentum going in the Girls U-18 division, Bryan said, “Two gold medals for Hawaii is super awesome. It’s definitely one of the best days of my life. Seeing Jackson out there dropping nines motivated me to keep it going for Hawaii.”

Rounding out the individual Gold medalists Noah Lia Klapp led Team Germany to eighth overall with two individual medals across both Girls Divisions. Klapp took the Gold Medal first in Girls U-16 and then followed up with

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C H A M P I O N S H I P

ISA / Ben Reed

ISA / Ben Reed

V I S S L A

Jackson Bunch

ISA / Sean Evans

Gabriela Bryan

Gabriela Bryan

The VISSLA ISA World Junior Surfing Championships is the premiere Championship event for crowning 18 and under Surfing Gold Medalists. Each nation can field a team of up to 12 competitors, consisting of three U-18 Boys, three U-18 Girls, three U-16 Boys, and three U-16 Girls.

Surfers compete individually, earning points according to how far they arrive in the competition that sum to their team total, which determines the Team Medalists.

ISA President Fernando Aguerre, said; “Since Surfing’s Olympic inclusion, we have been telling the competitors in this event that among them are future Olympians. For a few junior surfers from Japan and Peru, that dream is nearly a reality as they have earned Kai Martin

provisional qualification, the Olympic dream coming full circle with the youth of the sport.

“The world’s best have asserted themselves at a young age through this World Championship, and surely the Gold Medalists that we’ve crowned will become names to remember for years to come.”

Historically, the ISA has served as a glimpse into the future stars of the sport. Past ISA World Junior Champions include the twotime WSL Champion Gabriel Medina (BRA, 2010), Tatiana Weston-Webb (HAW, 2014, 2013), Filipe Toledo (BRA, 2011), Tom Curren (USA, 1980), Tyler Wright (AUS, 2010, 2009), Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS, 2007), Julian Wilson (AUS, 2006), Owen Wright (AUS, 2006), Stephanie Gilmore (AUS, 2005, 2004), Jordy Smith (RSA, 2003), Brisa Hennessy (CRC, 2016), and Caroline Marks (USA, 2016) to name a few.

ISA / Ben Reed

the Bronze in Girls U-18 only minutes later.

“It feels great to see all the hard work pay off,” said Klapp. “Team Germany is the best team that I could ask for. They’re amazing.”

Team ranking: Gold – USA Silver – Hawaii Bronze – Japan Copper – Spain 5 – France 6 – Australia 7 – Portugal 8 – Germany 9 – South Africa 10 – Canada Girls U-16: Gold – Noah Lia Klapp (GER) Silver – Zoe Benedetto (USA) Bronze – Betty Lou Sakura Johnson (HAW) Copper – Caitlin Simmers (USA) Boys U-16: Gold – Jackson Bunch (HAW) Silver – Taj Lindblad (USA) Bronze – Afonso Antunes (POR) Copper – Ryan Huckabee (USA) Girls U-18: Gold – Gabriela Bryan (HAW) Silver – Minami Nonaka (JPN) Bronze – Noah Lia Klapp (GER) Copper – Sara Wakita (JPN) Boys U-18: Gold – Dimitri Poulos (USA) Silver – Alan Cleland (MEX) Bronze – Tommy Coleman (USA) Copper – Joh Azuchi (JPN)

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INVITEES

Eddie Aikau Invitational Makes Waves The 2019-20 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational made a big splash when, in early Novmber, organizers released their offical list of invitees - which included a record number of women. Ladies like Laura Enever, Paige Alms, and Emi Erickson made the cut, as did John John and Nathan Florence, Kai Lenny, Mark Healy, Koa and Makua Rothman, Greg Long, Shane Dorian, Mason Ho, and several other legends. In their own category, masters Peter Mel Garrett McNamara, Derek and Mike Ho, Mike Parsons, Jeff Clark, and Tom Carroll have a shot at winning 250,000 Hawaiian Airline miles. Per the usual, the event will only run if the waves reach 20+ feet Hawaiian. December 1st kicks off the waiting period, hosting the opening ceremony December 5th at Waimea Bay. The waiting period runs through February 29, 2020.

The History The Eddie is the premier Event in the sport of Surfing – The Super Bowl of Surfing. The Eddie Big Wave Invitational celebrates the current lineage of big wave surfers, as well as the ones that came before. The legend of Eddie Aikau is an important part of Hawaiian Culture. Eddie Aikau was a championship athlete, a waterman, and a family man who truly cared for others. Eddie was not just the 1st lifeguard at Waimea Bay; he was the 1st lifeguard for the entire North Shore, and saved over 500 people throughout his career. Eddie would brave the waves that often reached 30 feet or more, when no one else would go out. It’s important to keep his legacy alive and inspire the next generation to live like Eddie did.

The 33rd annual Eddie Big Wave Invitational is aiming to bring focus onto Hawaiian Culture, with a goal to share the stories and legacy of Hawaii with the world. With the Waimea Valley extending behind Waimea Bay, this is an area rich with historic Hawaiian Cultural significance.

The Holding Period for the 2019 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Challenge is Set for December 1, 2019- February 29, 2020 62

Aaron Gold Andrea Moller Ben Wilkinson Billy Kemper Bruce Irons Danilo Couto Dave Wassel Eli Olson Emi Erickson Grant Baker Greg Long Ian Walsh Jamie O’Brien Jamie Mitchell John John Florence Kai Lenny Keala Kennelly Keali‘i Mamala Kelly Slater Koa Rothman Landon McNamara Lucas Chianca Luke Shepardson Makuakai Rothman Mark Healey Mason Ho Nathan Florence Nathan Fletcher Paige Alms Ross Clarke-Jones Shane Dorian Tikanui Smith MALE ALTERNATES Tyler Larronde Kyle Shipman Kohl Christensen Chris Bertish Chris Owens Mike Pietsch Torrey Meister Alex Martins Ryan Seelbach Matt Bromley Reef McIntosh Ezekiel Lau Jamie Sterling FEMALE ALTERNATES Bianca Valenti Raquel Heckert Justine Dupont Silvia Nabuco Laura Enever

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minutes left on the clock, Mamiya increased his scoreline with a 6.27 on a set wave to back up his 6.43.

“All these guys are insane,” Van Zyl commented of his fellow finalists. “Obviously Zeke, he’s won this event before, he’s so powerful and he knows this wave really well. Jack Robbo, he’s a master out here, he’s so good.

He’s not Hawaiian but he pretty much is, he just rips this wave.

And Barron is probably top 3, 4 guys out there, he’s really good and rides small boards. So coming into that Final I was just so happy to have made it and it’s just really special.”

South Africa's David Van Zyl First International Winner at Vans Pro Presented by HIC

Van Zyl is staying on the North Shore for two months with friend

David Van Zyl of South Africa is the champion of the 2019 VANS Pro Presented by HIC at Sunset Beach, on October 30, 2019 in Oahu, Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Mike Chlala/WSL)

and countryman Benji Brand (HAW), who earned the event's first perfect 10-point ride, and is looking to gain experience at Pipeline, Sunset and Haleiwa.

Haleiwa, Oahu/HAWAII – South Africa’s David Van Zyl conquered an all-star Final today at the Vans Pro presented by HIC, a World Surf League (WSL) Men’s Qualifying Series (QS) 3,000 event, after battling proper surf at Sunset Beach to come out on top of the 112man field. Only the second non-Hawaii surfer to win the Vans Pro, Van Zyl is the first international athlete to take the title after besting former event winner and Sunset powerhouse Ezekiel Lau (HAW), big wave connoisseur Jack Robinson (AUS) and North Shore standout Barron Mamiya (HAW), who earned runner-up, third and fourth place respectively.

Runner-up Lau had a marathon five-heat day but stayed composed and strong all the way through the Final. With multiple wins at Sunset Beach – in 2018 and 2013 at the Vans World Cup, 2011 at the Vans Pro and 2013 at the Pro Junior – Lau was the man to beat.

“I was finding comfort in that I’ve been here more times than these guys and I feel comfortable,” said Lau. “I’m ready, this isn’t anything new to me, I surfed five heats today and a warm-up surf in the morning. I knew what it took and I paced myself through the whole day, from the first heat all the way to the last heat, so for me to be in the last heat in the Final on the last day, I’m stoked.”

His biggest professional win to date, Van Zyl, 26, had an underdog victory after climbing out of a combo situation in the Final and pulling ahead of heat frontrunner Lau. With priority, the South African scored a 6.67 (out of a possible 10) for an aggressive, well-timed turn in the critical part of the section, then picked up another wave under priority toward the end of the heat. He went vertical on two turns to score an 8.00 and moved into first place to shake up the standings.

Lau returns home to Hawaii after his third consecutive year on the Championship Tour (CT). Currently ranked No. 28 on the CT and No. 48 on the QS, he will need to finish strong this season to secure his place among the world’s best.

“I can’t believe it, I’m so stoked, I went into the Final just so stoked to have made the Final,” said Van Zyl. “I just wanted to surf and get a few waves, I wasn’t really planning on winning or doing anything crazy.

I just wanted to get good scores and good waves. I was a bit nervous at the start, I actually was comboed for pretty much half the heat so to come back at the end was really special.”

“It’s been a long year for me and I haven’t found that much luck on the road so to come home and go straight into the first event and be in the final, that’s huge for me, for how I’m feeling and my momentum,” Lau continued. “I just want to carry this on and keep going through the whole Vans Triple Crown. I’m looking at clinching that Triple Crown for Sunny (Garcia) this year, I want to bring that trophy home to him.”

The most successful Sunset surfer of the 4-man Final, Lau attacked the 30-minute heat with an opening 7.67 layback hack to fire a warning shot, meanwhile, Mamiya and Robinson collected decent results on their scoreline.

A legendary athlete at Sunset Beach, Sunny Garcia was honored during the Vans Pro awards presentation as the most successful Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion in history. With an unprecedented six titles to his name, Vans dedicated a $5,000 Travel Award to the WSL Hawaii/Tahiti Nui Regional Winner, which was earned by Kauai athlete Gavin Gillette (HAW) after a strong showing this year in the regional event.

Lau seemed to be in command after securing a nice backup on his second wave, a 6.50 for an opening turn and perfectly timed closing maneuver. Robinson caught up after completing a variety of maneuvers on a foamy wave face for an 8.37 and with less than five 64

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notched the highest heat total of the event, a 19.00 (out of a possible 20).

Robinson’s final appearance sees him in the No. 20 spot on the QS and with a good track record in the Vans Triple Crown, he will be a top contender for CT qualification this year, along with Mamiya, who moved up the rankings to the No. 12 spot after his fourth place finish today.

The Vans Pro also qualified nine local athletes into the Vans Triple Crown where they will join the world’s best in their own backyard for the next six weeks. The sport’s most influential heritage surfing series, the Vans Triple Crown will honor the Champions, legends and next generation of surfing starting November 13 – December 20 at Haleiwa Ali‘i Beach. The following athletes are qualified into the Hawaiian Pro: Ezekiel Lau of Hawaii advances to quarter finals of the 2019 VANS Pro Presented

by HIC after placing second in Heat 7 of Round 4 at Sunset Beach, on October 30, 2019 in Oahu, Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Mike Chlala/WSL)

Kainehe Hunt, Kauai Eli Hanneman, Maui Robert Grilho, Oahu Noa Mizuno, Oahu Shayden Pacarro, Oahu

“Honestly, after Tahiti in March I was in the lead, so I’ve had a lot of time to think about it,” said Gillette. "The moment kind of dulled out a bit and then we got to this event and it was time to start looking at all the possibilities. When I lost is when it really started to sink in and I started to get nerves in my stomach and crunch the numbers.”

Billy Kemper, Maui Anthony Walsh, Oahu Robert Patterson, Big Island Logan Bediamol, Maui

Gillette, 33, won the Air Tahiti Rangiroa Pro earlier this year to receive a jump on the regional ratings and after Barron Mamiya – the only one who could catch Gillette – ended the competition in fourth place, the Regional title was Gillette’s. As the 2019 WSL Hawaii/Tahiti Nui Regional Winner, he receives automatic entry into all QS and top-rated Challenger Series events for the first half of the 2020 WSL season, along with regional runner-up Cody Young (HAW) from Maui.

“I would love to do some primes (Challenger Series) again, there’s a couple sick QS 6,000’s as well so I’m more than willing to go. I’ve got great boards from Firewire so I have no real excuse not to go. I’m going to have to go give it a dig again.”

Barron Mamiya of Hawaii places fourth in the finals of the 2019 VANS Pro Presented

by HIC at Sunset Beach, on October 30, 2019 in Oahu, Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Tony Heff/WSL)

International steamroller and Sunset specialist Robinson earned the second perfect 10-point ride of the 2019 Vans Pro during Round 4 for navigating a deep, critical barrel at the end of the heat. He backed up this score with an excellent 9.00 for two explosive maneuvers and

The North Shore season is now primed for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, three iconic and defining surf contests that are the cultural epicenter of surfing from November 13 - December 20. This heritage surf series celebrates the sport's historic past and redefines where its future is headed. From skaters to surfers, shapers to photographers, artists to industry notables, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing is where careers are made, where legends are solidified, and where the next generation tests their talent against the old guard in the mecca of surfing -- the North Shore of Oahu.

The Vans Triple Crown will begin at Haleiwa Ali'i Beach for the Hawaiian Pro, a Men's QS 10,000 event and the penultimate QS event of the year. This competition heats up the qualification scenarios and also sifts out the Vans Triple Crown title race frontrunners before heading back to Sunset Beach for the Vans World Cup of Surfing.

Barron Mamiya of Hawaii places fourth in the finals of the 2019 VANS Pro Presented

by HIC at Sunset Beach, on October 30, 2019 in Oahu, Hawaii, USA. (Photo by Tony Heff/WSL) 66

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Photos Nick Green The Makaha Stoke-o-Rama was a huge success thanks to Vans and the Gudauskas brothers’ foundation, the Positive Vibe Warriors: “Love and respect is what we learned spending the day with the community of Makaha. MAHALOS Nā Kama Kai, Duane DeSoto, and Kimo Leong for making this day possible. Having a chance to partner with #nakamakai is such an honor as their mission aligns perfectly with the Positive Vibe Warriors. Nā Kama Kai’s goal is to pass on the heritage of the Hawaiian culture to the next generation utilizing the ocean as a vehicle to teach life lessons. The PVW foundation is proud to support such an amazing community and culture.” - Positive Vibe Warriors #stokeorama

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to join in on the merriest expression session we’ve ever seen. Rohr and Nieblas stole the show, with honorable mentions going out to Jared Mell and Tosh Tudor for their amusing efforts overall.

With no signs of slowing down, the 22nd edition of the Vans Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational continues to make its mark around the world, honoring surf craftmanship and progression and paying respects to the incredible conditions Japan produced for the world’s best loggers. Arigato, Japan!

Follow @vanssurf to see the full photo and video recaps from the 22nd edition of the Vans Duct Tape Invitational in Fujisawa, Japan.

VA N S D U C T TA P E I N V I TAT I O N A L Photos Nick Green and Luki O'Keefe

Kugenuma Beach, Fujisawa, Japan (November 4, 2019) – Making its highly anticipated debut before a massive crowd of fans, the Vans Duct Tape series premiered in Japan for the first time in the competition’s history this past weekend. Arguably one of the most passionate surf scenes in the world, Japanese fans turned out in droves to watch 32 of the best longboarders exhibit their timeless logger style. Hosted at Kugenuma Beach in Fujisawa, the series witnessed its largest turnout ever, humbly recognized by contest director and surf legend Joel Tudor as “a dream come true.”

Featuring a men’s and women’s longboarding competition, live music, skate jams, surf sessions, family-friendly art workshops, and some of the most influential Japanese surf vendors on-site, the Vans Duct Tape Festival provided an unforgettable experience for the community. Heralding Joel Tudor as the ultimate sensei, the competition was held in the highest regard with him at the helm, as he led the next generation of longboarding talent onto Japan’s coveted shores.

In the Women’s competition, decorated logger and former WSL world champion Honolua Blomfield brought elegance to the water, winning her second Vans Duct Tape title since 2018. Blomfield’s unmistakable grace across the surfboard was a sight to see, maneuvering the picturesque glassy conditions with pure fluidity. Runner up Hallie Rohr shared Blomfield’s enthusiasm, gliding through the waves with an energetic, creative style, ultimately earning her special honors in the group expression session.

In the men’s competition, the ever-talented Andy Nieblas emerged in first place. Nieblas’ eccentric style always brings a modern approach to the contest, setting a new bar for innovation and reminding everyone to always have fun. Meanwhile, Kai Takayama, kin to surf royalty, demonstrated his natural talent of classic logger style, while adding on his own twist. Closing out the weekend in entertaining fashion, Joel brought party waves and paddle races to the beach, inviting all competitors

Vans Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational – Japan Results Men’s Division Andy Nieblas Kaimana Takayama Kaniela Stewart Justin Quintal Women’s Division Honolua Blomfield Hallie Rohr Kirra Seale Sierra Lerback Expression Session Men’s Winner: Andy Nieblas Women’s Winner: Hallie Rohr Paddle Races Men’s Winner: Kevin Skvarna Women’s Winner: Rosie Jaffurs Japan Duct Tape Invitational Winner Honolua Blomfield Japan Duct Tape Invitational Winner Andy Nieblas

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Stuff We Like

Nico’s Pier 38

Hawai‘i’s top musicians? Check. Ono local food? Yep. Two easy locations? Uh-huh. Nico’s is a proven favorite amongst Freesurf readers - and for good reason! With a menu offering the best local surf-nturf fresh-catch bites, poke bar, and stay-in or take-out dining at two locations on O‘ahu, Nico’s is ideal for post-surf eats or just a quick dropin on your to Town. Check out their lunch and dinner menus, specials, and, best of all, their rotating music schedule by visiting nicospier38. com and nicoskailua.com.

HIC Christmas Deals

Just in time for Christmas, HIC is offering free mainland shipping on order over $100! They also have a handy holiday gift guide as well as offical 2019 Vans Traiple Crown merch.

Check ‘em out and spread the love to your mainland ohana.

Shop online today at hicshoponline.com.

Kona Brewing Company Logo Tote

Cause you can’t show up with just the beer… pack all your goodies into a Kona Brewing Company Big Wave tote bag, sling it over your shouolder, and you’re set to go! The machinewashable bag is just ten bucks and features the Kona logo and their trademark “liquid aloha” catchphrase. Shop on their Instagram store @konabrewingco or online shop. konabrewingcompany.com.

Share Your Clip in “Snapt 4”

Mason Ho

Surfers and videographers - put your skills on display to the world! Now through July 2020, director Logan Dulien is collecting two-three minute clip submissions for their $40k giveaway. So cash in on that favor your buddy owes you or force your younger bro to man the camera as you surf the next decent swell. Edit clips, add some lit beats, then submit the footage. Selected clips will be part of a montage premiering August 1, 2020 and the public will vote on their fav. Head's up! Resist the urge to post it on your socials - if it has hit the interwebs it will be disqualified. The Logan Dulien concept, entitled Snapt 4, will aslo feature Mason Ho, Jack Robinson, Seth Moniz, Josh Moniz, Clay Marzo, Asher Pacey, Ian Crane, Parker Coffin, Benji Brand, Eithan Osborne, Carlos Munoz, Sheldon Paishon, and Dakota Walter. Search Facebook for submission information.

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IN D USTRY N O TES

Pyzel

Following the tour stops, shaper Jon Pyzel held meet and greets at Rip Curl stores in Hossegor, France, and Peniche, Portugal. Pyzel talked boards, waves, the tour, and predictions for the North Shore's winter with the Euro crowd. Those who stopped by the Portugal event were treated to a "test drive" of a few popular Pyzel models. Test drives have also popped up stateside recently on O‘ahu’s South Shore and Kaua‘i. Wanna try it before you buy it? Be on the lookout via the Pyzel Surfboards Instagram @pyzelsurfboards for upcoming opportunities to ride all the Pyzel shapes at your favorite break.

False Wetsuit Brings About Real Awareness

Surfrider Foundation and Vissla have teamed up to design a Rising Seas Wetsuit. The aim of the design concept is for it to remain just that - a concept, not an actual product - in an effort to highlight the issues tarnishing the ocean, results of human impact. Vissla and Sirfrider want to raise further awareness surrounding clmaite change, toxic runoff, increasing coean acidification (killing corals), by sketching the suit they never want to have to sell. Read more about it and learn what you can do to help heal our oceans by visiting vissla.com/surf-industry-coastaldefender.

Eli Olson Launches Flowstate

In collaboration with his vlog, the North Shore’s Eli Olson is launching a product line you can feel good about: For every item sold, Flowstate will donate 5% to Mauli Ola Foundation and 5% to Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii. The Mauli Ola Foundation focuses on giving back to children with disabilities and incurable diseases by providing them with fun-filled beach days.

Harnassing the healing energy brought about by surf, salt air, and sunshine. The environementallyfocused nonprofit Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii is dedicated to cleaning up beaches and taking care of our oceans. “Everyone has the power to give back to their community,” says Olsen. “I’m trying to lead by example...It is our responsibility as millennials to set the example for past, present, and future generations...that our world matters and we only have one.” Insipired by other local heros including Jason Momoa, Olson says, “It is time to rise up and be bigger than just ourselves. We need to leave the world a better place for the future generations.” You can check out Flowstate through Olson’s vlog on YouTube at youtu.be/XIrJLrYlyyY and visit his IG for links @eli_olson.

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IN D USTRY N O TES

Timmy Reyes Film Premier

Nomadic Firewire and O’Neil team rider Timmy Reyes hosted a movie preimerir for his latest surf film, “Love Letters”.

Capturing the highlights of Reyes’ latest Baja adventures, the Southern California all proceeds from the raffle and event went to the nonprofit that honor of the late Ben Carlson, a Newport Beach lifeguard who lost his life during a rescue in 2014. The film is available for streaming now from vimeo. com/366909594. To support the Ben Carlson Foundation, visit bencarlsonfoundation.org.

Kiron ties the Knot

Congrats to Kiron Jabour and Leila Thomas who tied the knot at Kualoa Ranch on O‘ahu’s east side on November 11th. The event was attended by several of surfing world’s elite including the Florence family, Kelia Moniz, Koa Smith, Kaiborg, and Mahina Garcia. The transcontinental couple splits their time between Portugal, where Jabour’s twin daughters live, and the North Shore of O‘ahu.

Imaikalani deVault Turns 22

A belated HBD from Freesurf, Imai! The Vans team rider and Maui up-and-comer marked another circle around the sun on November 12th with a day off from the contest circuit. Hau'oli la hanau!

Lifeguard Bill 39 Passes

Thanks to all Bill 39 supporters who submitted testimony, Bill 39 was passed by the Honolulu City Council and Mayor Kirk Caldwell.

The bill was initially proposed as a public safety measure, arguing that extended “Lifeguard on Duty” hours were needed to protect residents and visitors. Financial constratints were of a major concern, however new budgeting will address that and other logistics to implement the new heightened safety measures.

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MANULELE AWARDS Celebrating Hawai‘i’s Top Water Men and Women

Let your voice be heard in deciding who will earn top honors at this year's Manulele Awards, a celebration of Hawai’i’s top water men and women. We applaud their accomplishments and reflect on the good energy and positive vibes their performances inspire.

This year's nominees, in the seven prestigious categories, are an incredible collection of Hawai’i’s best performers. There can only be one winner in each category, so be sure to vote and ensure your favorite surfer gets the recognition they deserve.

Presented By

2019 Manulele Awards Nominees

Top Female Carissa Moore Coco Ho Moana Jones Malia Manuel

Most Progressive Eli Hanneman Seth Moniz Barron Mamiya Jamie O’Brien

Top Junior (18 and under) Eli Hanneman Bettylou Sakura Johnson Brodi Sale Jackson Bunch

Top Male Seth Moniz John John Florence Nathan Florence Ezekiel Lau

Big Wave Charger Nathan Florence Makua Rothman Billy Kemper Kai Lenny

Longboard Honolua Blomfeld Kaniela Stewart Kelia Moniz Kelis Kaleopaa

Vote Online! www.freesurfmagazine.com

Web Surfer John John Florence Alana Blanchard Mason Ho Jamie O'Brien Koa Rothman

L A S T

L O O K

Jackson Bunch Lower Trestles, CA Photo: Andrew Oliver Maui’s Jackson Bunch began his recent trip to California with an afternoon excursion to Lower Trestles and it would be his only session away from the stress and demands of the ISA World Junior Championship in Huntington Beach. For this one afternoon, he was free to be a surf-stoked grom in some epic California surf. From that point, Bunch transformed into a competitive assassin steamrolling through eight days of one of the most gruelling events in all of surfing, to an eventual Gold Medal. This flawless extended front-side nosepick was a clear projection of what was in store, radical surfing done with speed and style rarely seen, the true ingredients of a World Champion.