v16n11 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Edition

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F R E E

P A R K I N G

Ocean Macedo, Pipeline.

Photo: Shane Gracey Surfers will dedicate their entire lives to surfing Pipeline for the chance at a wave like this. For Maui’s Ocean Macedo, his chance came at just 16 years old: “That day at Pipe was so big and it was super packed. I was sitting all the way out the back and got washed by a set and lost my board. I swam in from the Second Reef, grabbed a new leash and paddled back out, and then that wave came straight to me. It was the second wave of a set, a super scary whitewater double-up loading on the First Reef.

Everyone in the lineup got pushed around by the first wave in the set, so no one else was really in position from how far back I was. I turned and went; I don’t think I’ve ever been in a bigger barrel,” said Macedo.

T A B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

We live for the glorious golden hour.

Bella Miller Photo: Nick Gruen

12 Free Parking

76 Jesse Mendes

114 Stuff We Like

18 Editor’s Note

82 Rainos Hayes

116 News & Events

20 Carissa Moore

88 Imai Devault

118 Surf Art

26 VTCS Spot Check

92 Environment

122 Community

46 Event Calendar

96

124 Industry Notes

50 Seth Moniz

98 Jon Pyzel

26 Zeke Lau

106 Kauli Vaast

64 Aperture

110 Leila Hurst

Ivan Florence

14

130 Last Look

AVA I L A B L E AT O S H I M A S H O P S

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Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai‘i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

“Let The Show Begin” B Y

A ND R E W

The North Shore winter surf season is once again upon us, and the coast’s miraculous transformation form a tranquil summer idle into the global epicenter of extreme surf has begun. For nearly four decades, The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, a festival befitting of the Seven Mile Miracle, has served as an annual affirmation of the coast’s supremacy in the world of surf.

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing is a siren call to the world’s best surfers to face their final tests of the year at some of the most challenging venues on the planet: Hale‘iwa, Sunset, and of course, the Banzai Pipeline. It is a recipe that has yielded many of the sport’s historic performances, and 37 years on, continues to generate iconic moments year after year.

The analogy of a festival is fitting, as the Triple Crown is in fact many shows, many dramas, all rolled together into one big show. You have your main attractions in the WSL world title race and the coveted Triple Crown Title itself. And, while not technically a part of the Vans Triple Crown, over on Maui, the final WSL event of the Women’s Championship Tour season is held at iconic Honolua Bay. This year’s event is especially noteworthy, as Hawai‘i’s Carissa Moore will be competing for an unprecedented fourth world title in one of the most competitive fields in the history of the sport.

Beyond the major podium finishes, there’s an abundance of other stories played out on the smaller stages, and, in some cases, the stakes are even higher for the actors involved. These, of course, are

The Arena, Pipeline Photo: Andrew Oliver

OL I V E R

the stories of the Qualifying Series warriors who have battled all year, around the globe, for one of the ten coveted seats on the WSL Championship Tour allotted for QS surfers. As the Vans Triple Crown progresses, each round of elimination has career-defining significance.

In the last few years, the minimum end-of-year QS point tally for Championship Tour qualification has hovered around somewhere north of 16,000 points. And, with 20,000 points available between the Hawaiian Pro at Hale‘iwa and the Vans World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach, the QS leaderboard is ripe for a major final reshuffling.

For the vast majority of us mere mortals, whose chances of donning a Vans Triple Crown jersey are as likely as playing alongside Lebron in the NBA finals, what does all this mean?

On the North Shore, and for surfers around the world, the Vans Triple Crown coincides with the start of winter in the Northern Hemisphere, the time of year when heavy winter swells present each of us with ample opportunity to push our personal boundaries. The Vans Triple Crown is a superpowered microcosm of the world’s best surfers pushing their limits in the world’s most challenging waves. This winter, when you find yourself at the fringe of your comfort zone, look no further than this festival—the greatest show in surf—the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing for inspiration. These athletes redefine what's possible for themselves and so can you.

Out the back, the next set is yours. Take it!

LUCAS DIRKSE IN THE BUFFER FLANNEL

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@ SALTY_ CREW | SALTY-CREW .COM

a champion’s return to form The Carissa Moore Interview B Y

A ND R E W

It has been well documented that the women’s performances on the WSL World Championship Tour are in uncharted territory; one of the key influencers of this current performance surge is Carissa Moore. She is the rare surfer whose impact on the sport, from a teenage phenom to a global ambassador, has come to define a generation. And she’s still going.

Straight out of the gates as a 17-year-old rookie, Carissa brought a wellbalanced display of raw power and style that was deeply influenced by her Hawaiian surfing roots. Her approach to wave riding was in sharp contrast to the precision lines of the once-thought-of unstoppable Stephanie Gilmore, and the two went back and forth as world champions during Carissa’s first five years on Tour. Of this great rivalry,

OL I V E R

anchored in mutual respect and admiration, came the stratospheric rise in women’s performance surfing.

In those early days, Carissa and Steph stood out from the pack. Yet in time, those performances lit a spark amongst the rest of their competitors who have done well to catch up. Not one to rest on past glory, Carissa has been deeply inspired by the recent progression of women’s surfing and has raised her performances to new heights, doing some of the best surfing of her career.

We spoke with Carissa as she entered the final leg of the 2019 World Tour sitting at number one, aiming for a historic fourth world title.

Carissa

Carissa Moore, the epitome of balance. Radical yet poised. Selfless and determined. Ever present in the moment, with her eyes acutely fixed down the line, ready for what the next section brings.

Keramas, Bali. Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

C A R I S S A

This is your tenth year on the CT. You have been surfing exceptionally well, and you’re vying for your fourth world title - how does it feel?

I feel like I'm in a really great place at the moment, both entally and physically. I’m feeling strong, motivated, happy, and passionate about surfing and competing. I'm deeply grateful to be in the mix for a world title this year and I am excited for the next three events.

Is this familiar territory for you, or does this year feel different?

It's been a few years since I've been in the world title conversation and there are different types of attention that comes with

M O O R E

it. Not being on top has really put things in perspective for me and I'm thankful to be in the position that I am. It is so special to put everything I have into chasing a dream.

You’ve been at the forefront of performance since your days as a breakthrough junior competitor, but since then the sport has evolved and become so competitive. How have you evolved with it?

Over the ten years I have been on Tour, I have seen tremendous growth in overall performance from the ladies. I am continuously pushed by my peers to step outside my comfort zone, train harder, smarter, and be more progressive. All the ladies are extremely passionate about doing their very best and pushing for more. I pay

more attention to detail now and checking all the boxes.

We spoke with Megan Abubo recently and she feels you are doing some of the best surfing yet this year.

That is a huge compliment coming from Megan. Thank you! I think that I am getting closer to doing my best surfing in competition. That has always been a huge goal of mine: to compete how I train or surf every day. I think I am finding more confidence in myself which is translating into the lines I am drawing on waves.

What have you done to achieve this new level of performance?

A fleeting moment of pure intent. Carissa Moore driving forward at Backdoor. Photo:WSL / Heff

C A R I S S A

M O O R E

With the performances you have had out there, it looks like that wave was perfectly made for your surfing.

I have a great team of people in my corner.

I train with my dad on a daily basis. He's the best coach for me and holds me to a high standard. I also just started working with a sports psych which has really helped me to redefine my goals, keep things simple for myself, and live a happier life. My trainer is amazing, as well as my whole family of sponsors. My husband is an incredible support. All the love is what keeps me going and pushing forward.

With the performance level on Tour so high, can it be overwhelming to you, or does it fuel your fire?

It's exciting! I'm embracing it. It's an exciting time to be a female in sports, especially in surfing. I am proud to be a part of the movement and am super inspired by my peers.

You’re in the final leg of the Tour. You’ve had some great results in Europe, and an incredible relationship with Honolua Bay; you must be feeling pretty confident going forward?

I am never 100% confident because anything can happen and there are so many variables in the ocean. I am really looking forward to the next couple of events and giving it my very best. I enjoy everything about Europe and have a love affair with Honolua Bay, so it should be fun.

Well, thank you. I don't know about it being perfectly made for my surfing, but I absolutely enjoy performing out there and I think that shines through.

Moore with her father Chris at the training grounds.

Kewalos. Photo: gOnzo

"I feel like I'm in a really great place at the moment. Mentally and physically, I feel really strong, motivated, happy, and passionate about surfing and competing.

I'm really grateful to be in the mix for a world title this year and I am excited for the next three events." -Carissa

Giving back is what gives me a true sense of purpose and brings me a lot of happiness.

Competition results are fleeting. What lasts for me is the interactions I have with others and the way you make people feel.

You hear it from other world champions, especially on the men's side, that competitors really have to be selfish in many ways to win world titles. How do you balance that in your life?

I've just felt it out. Finding the balance between giving and taking, making time for myself and others. I think giving back refuels my soul, motivation, and desire to compete.

Moore

What is going to be your biggest challenge in finishing this year on top?

What are some of the main lessons that you share with C-Stars, or that you wish you could go back in time and share with yourself when you were their age?

Staying present and not overthinking things.

Just keeping it simple and having the right perspective.

‘You are awesome.’ There can be so many negative distractions that influence you to be someone you're not. Stay true to your inner voice and know that you are perfect just the way you are. We are all put on this planet for a unique reason; embrace your journey.

Let’s talk about Honolua: it has to be one of the most iconic and beautiful waves in the world. Tell us more about the place, the wave, and what it means to you.

Mahalo Carissa.

Best of luck in Europe!

WSL / Ed Sloane

It's one of my favorite waves in the world.

Honolua Bay holds a very special place in my heart. I feel a unique connection to the ocean and sense of purpose when I surf there. It is one of the most picturesque places, with the islands on the horizon and the untouched mountains when looking back at the bay.

The wave is strong, powerful, and raw. It is an honor to be able to compete there.

Shifting gears a bit, you have always been incredibly active and taken the role of an ambassador very seriously. For example, all the work that you and your dad do with the C-Stars (Carissa’s surfing mentorship program with young women in Hawai‘i). How do you balance that part of your life that is dedicated to giving back with being such a fierce competitor?

Spot Check

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, 37 Years Championing Competition and Community B Y

L A U R E N

R OL L A ND

A morning thunderstorm appropriately welcomed the change of seasons as lightning broke the sky on the first day of fall on Oahu’s North Shore.

It was as if the start of the surf season had been signaled and with it, dramatic waves, athlete anecdotes, world-class surfing, community events and the crowning of Champions was soon to follow. Now we are amid another electrifying season on the North Shore – welcome to the 37th Vans Triple Crown of Surfing!

A sincere thank you to residents for sharing this surfing mecca with the world. The Vans Triple Crown further cements itself as a fixture in the surfing industry and visitors the world over travel to the sevenmile sweep of coastline for the opportunity to catch a glimpse of… celebrity surfers, barreling Pipe, the sporting drama, local event activations, the lush bike path, charming Haleiwa Town… insert whatever description of the North Shore you like, the community that calls this town home helps make the Vans Triple Crown authentic, alluring and historic.

the rankings. With a range of past Hawaiian Pro event winners – from Oahu-bred power surfers like Sunny Garcia and Pancho Sullivan, to Australian figures Joel Parkinson and Mark Richards, to legendary names Tom Curren and Andy Irons, Haleiwa has many facets that challenge surfers to the core. The variety of winners is a testament to the wave’s versatility.

Equally challenging and even more physically demanding is Sunset Beach, located approximately seven miles down Kamehameha Highway from Haleiwa and one of the most consistent deep-water big wave breaks in the world. The hunt for a Vans Triple Crown title continues at Event No. 2, the Vans World Cup of Surfing, as athletes take center stage to tackle maxing-out surf and end up on top of the 128-man field. Careers are shaped or shattered at Sunset Beach during this event, since it is the go-for-broke, last ditch effort for Qualifying Series (QS) athletes to ascend onto the CT.

Each venue – Haleiwa, Sunset and Pipe – has a unique story that unfolds every year under the Vans Triple Crown marquee but by far the greatest are the title races. This sixweek-long series returns every year to declare the Vans Triple Crown Champion, the greatest athlete of the North Shore’s professional surf season and one of the most elite and highly sought-after titles known to surfers. This Champion will stand side by side with the newly crowned World Surf League (WSL) Men’s World Champion – who has competed around the world for the past nine months in the ultimate hunt for the World Title trophy – together at the Billabong Pipe Masters. The Vans Triple Crown honors the greatest champions of the sport as it converges with the WSL Men’s Championship Tour (CT) and, new this year, historical qualification into the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020.

The concluding event of the Vans Triple Crown and capstone to the Men’s CT is the Billabong Pipe Masters, the most charged event of the entire North Shore season and final chapter of surfing’s greatest competitive stories for 2019.

Pipeline becomes a natural amphitheater filled with the sounds of fan applause, thundering barrels and blow-by-blow commentary. While the surfers help shape the headlines, the waves have the leading role in this drama.

Beginning at Haleiwa Ali‘i Beach for the Hawaiian Pro, the Vans Triple Crown sees 128 athletes compete for the event win and a lead on

This is the Vans Triple Crown, the greatest show in surfing.

26

Redefining Performance ®

HIC Surfboards by Kerry Tokoro

Kerry Tokoro’s M7 model is the perfect go-to board for those days when the waves get too big or powerful for your everyday shortboard.

The clean lines, sophisticated bottom contours and rounded pintail design combine to make this board fast and loose, yet solid and stable.

Ext foam under the chest area helps the M7 Extra paddle and catch waves easily, and maintain its speed through flat sections. The continuous curve of the outline draws smooth lines across the wave face and holds tight through hard gauging turns.

ADVANCED COMPOSITE MATRIX

HIC’s ADVANCED COMPOSITE MATRIX (ACM) combines the best qualities of three different fiberglass fabrics - E-Glass, S-Glass and Warp Glass - creating a surfboard that is lighter and more resistant to compression, buckling and breaking.

All stock HIC boards are now glassed with the ACM system in combinations of 4 oz. and 6 oz. fiberglass, depending on the length of the board.

Look for the ACM logo to be sure.

Josh Moniz, Pipeline

The M7’s bottom features a fair amount of rocker with a mix of single to double concave flowing to a slight vee off of the tail. This allows the board to fit into steep sections of the wave and keeps it feeling loose and maneuverable.

The M7 is a favorite of HIC Teamriders like Josh Moniz and Joel Centeio when surfing Sunset, Pipeline or other big wave spots. If you’re looking for a step-up design that won’t sacrifice your performance, the M7 is the right board for you.

Photo: Latronic/Manulele

M7 Model by Kerry Tokoro: 6’4” X 18.75” X 2.33 HIC Surfboards Available at:

OAHU: Ala Moana Center 808-973-6780, Kailua 808-266-6730, Haleiwa 808-637-0991. MAUI: Lahaina Cannery 808-667-6111.

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HAWAIIAN PRO Men's QS 10,000 - Haleiwa Nov 13 - 24, 2019

The many faces of Hale‘iwa, from 12 foot and terrifying to a head-high skatepark, make the Hawaiian Pro one of the most exciting venues of the Vans Triple Crown. A spectator's delight, the natural amphitheater of Hale‘iwa beach give you front row access to one of the premier performance waves on the North Shore.

Photo: WSL / Heff

The first event of the Vans Triple Crown is the Hawaiian Pro at Ali‘i Beach in Hale‘iwa. As one of the last few events of the WSL Qualifying Series (QS) season, and one of only six events on the 2019 schedule that carry the heavyweight QS 10,000 points status, the results of the Hawaiian Pro has a profound impact on the end-of-year rankings and Championship Tour qualification scenarios. The town of Hale‘iwa is considered the gateway to the Seven Mile Miracle of O‘ahu’s North Shore, so it is only fitting that the Hawaiian Pro is the launching point for the Vans Triple Crown.

Surfers well-versed with the waves of Hale‘iwa are quick to note that this is a surf spot of many faces. Surfable from 2-12 feet, the waves can vary from tricky beach break-like conditions to a gnarly, grinding right-hander that comes to life on the outer ledge of the reef when the swell gets serious. While progressive maneuvers and aerial surfing come into play on the smaller days, power surfing reigns supreme at Hale‘iwa. And with only two goofy-foot champions in the event’s history, the wave favors powerful regular-footers who are able to channel the performances of Sunny Garcia— one of the sport’s greatest power surfers and five-time winner of the Hawaiian Pro. An easy spectator experience, this event allows for front row seating on the sand as competitors tackle the challenging conditions that make this wave noteworthy.

Features 128 Competitors First Place Prize: $30,000 Qualifying Series Event Points: QS 10,000 Defending Champion: Joel Parkinson (AUS)

Hawaiian pro Wave Characteristics Hale‘iwa can handle surf from 2-12 feet and is best on a clean, large west swell.

Classic Hale‘iwa comes to life when the swell is 4 feet and above. The wave moves to the outer ledge of the reef and gets critically steep and hollow as the size increases.

Under 4 feet, Hale‘iwa features a right and a left—a fun, ripple wave in either direction.

The inside section of the right is nicknamed “The Toilet Bowl,” which drains over shallow reef allowing for show-stopping finishing maneuvers and dramatic wipeouts.

Conditioning and strategy are critical here due to the notorious Hale‘iwa current. On bigger swells, especially from the northern direction, the aging river-like rip sucks out to sea towards Puena Point, challenging surfers’ endurance and athleticism.

On the northern end of the beach, near the breakwall is a take-off zone aptly named “Peaks” that competitors will sometimes sneak off to in order to wrangle a quick score.

Spectator Notes The Hawaiian Pro is free and open to the public.

Public facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and lifeguard patrol.

Trees and shrubs border the beach providing limited shade.

Don’t forget your sunscreen.

Food and drinks are generally available for purchase from onsite vendors during the event.

Additionally, there are numerous

restaurants and shops in adjacent in Hale‘iwa Town.

Where to Park Located off Hale‘iwa Road, enter Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park from the west end of the harbor. Parking is limited at the event site.

Additional parking is available on Hale‘iwa Road along the wooden curb heads. Be sure to heed all ‘No Parking’ signs and be respectful of neighborhood residents.

Coach’s Corner Rainos Hayes, North Shore Local, Billabong Hawai‘i Team Manager, Personal Coach to CT Competitors Courtney Conlogue and Seth Moniz“Unless Hale‘iwa is West and perfect, it's pretty difficult for all four competitors to get a good shot at a large score. There's a lot of current and there aren't actually that many rideable waves, so positioning and waveknowledge are essential. In a set of four or five waves, you're probably only going to get one really good one, another one that's fairly rideable, and the other two are sometimes closing out especially if there is a northwest direction in the swell.

So the best wave in the set could offer a score of seven or higher, the other may be around a five, and the other couple waves are twos and threes.”

Australian Jack Freestone’s performance in the Vans Triple Crown could have major repercussions for the 2020 Championship Tour qualification breakdown. At press, the explosive regular-foot had just garnered his year’s best result on the WCT with an equal 3rd place finish at the Quiksilver Pro France, pushing him up seven spots to 19th on the ranking (the Top 22 requalify for the 2020 WCT). Freestone is also currently sitting at 18th on the Qualifying Series (the Top 10 on the QS qualify for the 2020 WCT), with three throwaway scores in his baseline. Decent results at the final two QS events of the year, the Hawaiian Pro and the World Cup of Surfing at Sunset, both QS10,000’s, could easily see him breach the QS top 10. That would mean a decent shot at double qualification if he maintains within the top 22 on the WCT at the completion of the Billabong Pipe Masters; therefore, a good run by Freestone at the Vans Triple Crown could open up the possibility of World Tour qualification dreams to one spot further down the QS ratings list.

Photo: WSL/Heff

Hawaiian pro

Two of Hawai’i’s best, Barron Mamiya (above) and Seth Moniz (below), looking to do big things in the 2019 Hawaiian Pro. For Mamiya, the pressure is on; sitting 12th on the QS (currently the last spot for CT qualification is 12th place with two double-qualifiers sitting in the QS top 10), he needs a solid finish on his home turf to maintain a qualification berth. Meanwhile, with requalification a non-issue for Moniz (ranked 11th on the CT), and as a perennial stand-out on the North Shore, he will be particularly dangerous as he sets his sights on conquering his first Vans Triple Crown title. Photos: WSL / Heff

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Hawaiian Pro Champions California’s Jake Marshall is sitting comfortably in 5th on the QS and is looking to finish out his year in style and become the first San Diegan on the Championship Tour since legendary power-surfer Taylor Knox’s retirement in 2012.

Photo: WSL/Heff

2018 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2017 - Filipe Toledo, BRA 2016 - John Florence, Hawai‘i 2015 - Wade Carmichael, AUS 2014 - Dusty Payne, Hawai‘i 2013 - Michel Bourez, PYF 2012 - Sebastian Zietz, Hawai‘i 2011 - Taj Burrow, AUS 2010 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2009 - Joel Centeio, Hawai‘i 2008 - Michel Bourez, PYF 2007 - Roy Powers, Hawai‘i 2006 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i

The last moments of calm before Hawai’i’s Zeke Lau unleashes the beast on Haleiwa’s powerful rights. Photo: WSL / Keoki

Kanoa Igarashi Photo: WSL / Keoki

2005 - Pancho Sullivan, Hawai‘i 2004 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 2003 - Troy Brooks, AUS 2002 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 2001 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i 2000 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 1999 - Conan Hayes, Hawai‘i 1998 - Kaipo Jaquias, Hawai‘i 1997 - Tony Ray, AUS 1996 - Kaipo Jaquias, Hawai‘i

Liam O’Brien with corner man, Rainos Hayes, is sitting right on the cusp of qualification (13th on the QS) and will be looking for every advantage possible to achieve his Championship Tour dreams.

Photo: WSL / Keoki

1995 - Richard Lovett, AUS 1994 - Chris Brown, USA 1993 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 1992 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 1991 - Tom Curren, USA 1990 - Nicky Wood, AUS 1989 - Cheyne Horan, AUS 1988 - Barton Lynch, AUS 1987 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1986 - Mark Richards, AUS 1985 - Mark Richards, AUS

VANS WORLD CUP Men's QS 10,000 - Sunset Beach Nov 25 - Dec 7, 2019

The Vans World Cup of Surfing honors Sunset Beach’s storied history as the epicenter of performance big-wave surfing. Sunset Beach is the ultimate test in endurance, wave-knowledge, and committed power surfing and is a fitting venue for the final Qualifying Series event of the year.

Sunset Beach Photo: Chris Latronic

The second jewel of the Vans Triple Crown (VTCS) is the Vans World Cup of Surfing at iconic Sunset Beach—one of the most powerful and challenging waves on the planet. As a QS 10,000, and the last event of the 2019 WSL Qualifying Series (QS), the stakes couldn’t be any higher for competitors on the brink of qualifying for the 2020 WSL Championship Tour (CT). As the rounds progress, the crowd of qualification hopefuls thins drastically. Be on the lookout for the competitors carrying over strong momentum from the Hawaiian Pro at Hale‘iwa.

With 20,000 QS points for the taking from the Hale‘iwa and Sunset contests, plus a year-end points total earning a CT seat landing somewhere greater than 16,000 points, breakthrough performances by qualification ‘dark horses’ are almost the norm here. Think back to Sebastian Zietz in 2012 and Dusty Payne in 2014; both surfers shot up from deep in the ratings pack with dominant performances at these final, crucial events.

Long considered the epicenter of big wave power surfing, Sunset Beach’s unparalleled history and influence reach back to the dawn of surfing’s modern era. While big wave surfing has progressed dramatically from its early days through advances in equipment—and the pioneering of previously unfathomable waves like Jaws, Mavericks, and Nazare—Sunset Beach continues to demand a level of mastery that very few surfers in the world achieve. On the WSL QS schedule, the only venue to come close to Sunset in terms of challenge is stop number one of the VTCS - the Hawaiian Pro at Hale‘iwa.

Features 128 Competitors First Place Prize: $30,000 Qualifying Series Event Points: QS 10,000 Defending Champion: Ezekiel Lau (HAW)

vans world cup Wave Characteristics

Where to Park

A dominant right-hand breaking wave handling surf from 2-15 feet.

Parking is limited at Sunset Beach. There are a few stalls along the beachside of Kamehameha Highway and a parking lot directly across the street. Additional parking is available further down along Kamehameha Highway. Be sure to heed all ‘No Parking’ signs and be respectful of neighborhood residents.

Sunset Beach has been an epicenter of big wave power surfing since the very beginning of the modern surfing era.

Breaking far out at sea, the wave zone stretches across several hundred yards, making it extremely challenging for surfers to find the regular takeoff zones.

Sunset is one of few venues in which a surfer’s caddie can paddle out to the lineup and provide coaching and an extra board in the case of a broken leash or board.

The combo of powerful waves, strong currents, and gusty tradewinds make Sunset one of the most challenging lineups in the world, bringing about another level of respect to the surfers who master it.

Spectator Notes Public restrooms and showers are available across the street from the beach.

Be mindful of coastline plants and restoration projects in progress.

There will be no competition on Thanksgiving Day, November 28th.

Do not approach the shorebreak.

Be vigilant and watch for high washing waves, especially at high tides. Children and personal belongings could be swept away in the strong rip current. Ask the lifeguards on duty any ocean safety questions.

Heed all warning signs and announcements.

Shade is limited, so pack reeffriendly sunscreen and a hat.

Binoculars are a good idea! The surf break at Sunset beach is well over 100 yards out.

Coach’s Corner Rainos Hayes, North Shore local, Billabong Hawai‘i Team Manager, Personal Coach to CT Competitors Courtney Conlogue and Seth Moniz“The tendency in surfing today is to ride as short of a board as possible, so guys are pretty much swimming themselves into waves and then figuring it out at the last second as they free fall in. At Sunset, that's probably a negative. I feel the wave is still kind of a three-turn wave, so whatever puts you on the right waves [in terms of equipment] to make the right type of turns, in the right three places, will probably net you a good-toexcellent score.

“Also, the competitors get to have a caddie in the channel, and that makes it my favorite venue to coach. With myself in the channel, I get a chance to keep the competitors both informed and upbeat, so they don't lose focus and enthusiasm for what's happening. One of the most consistent things I see happen there is competitors think they're losing and they don't realize they're not too far off. Generally, in today's standards at Sunset, unless you're getting smoked, you're always only one score off.

That's just one wave, well surfed.

There's enough space in the lineup; if you play it right, you can find what you need.”

At press, Brazil’s Jadson Andre sits comfortably at the number one spot on the Qualifying Series. Regardless of his ranking, the wiry goofyfoot brings 100% committed surfing to every heat he paddles out in. Having made two semifinals in his last three Vans World Cup appearances, look for Andre to wrap-up his impressive year with a major result at Sunset Beach. Jadson Andre Photo: WSL / Keoki

vans world cup

Hawai‘i’s local specialists are always a major threat in the Vans Triple Crown (VTCS), and at the Vans World Cup there is no better example of this than Sunset Beach’s own Mason Ho. With surfing’s unrivaled family pedigree, as the son of Michael Ho (two-time VTCS champion) and one of the most decorated surfers ever at Sunset Beach, nephew to Derek Ho (four-time VTCS Champion) and 1993 world champion, and brother to World Tour competitor, Coco Ho, Mason’s North Shore mastery literally pulses through his veins. Over the years, Mason has garnered his own impressive string of competitive results at Sunset Beach and has developed into arguably one of the most creative wave riders in the world. It is safe to say that Mason’s heats are not to be missed.

Photo: WSL/Keoki

The 2018 Vans World Cup of Surfing Champion Ezekiel Lau is on pace to be the most dominant surfer at Sunset Beach of his generation, and possibly of all-time, having also previously won in 2013 as a 20-year-old rookie. Zeke’s modern interpretation of classic Hawaiian power surfing is taylor-made for the giant canvas of Sunset Beach. Needing a solid finish in the VTCS for 2020 WT qualification Zeke will be especially dangerous at this year’s Vans World Cup. Photo: WSL/Heff

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World Cup of Surfing Champions 2018 - Ezekiel Lau, Hawai‘i 2017 - Conner Coffin, USA 2016 - Jordy Smith, South Africa 2015 - Mick Fanning, AUS 2014 - Michel Bourez, PYF 2013 - Ezekiel Lau, Hawai‘i 2012 - Adam Melling, AUS Widely-regarded as one of the sport’s best tube riders, Jack Robinson has an uncanny ability in waves of consequence. Raised in the gnarly slabs of Western Australia, his reef break experience has translated well to Hawai‘i, having won QS events at both Sunset and Pipe. Currently 20th on the QS, Robinson will be digging deep into his well of heavy water experience to earn a major result in the VTCS and ultimately a slot on the 2020 Championship Tour. Photo: WSL/Heff

2011 - John John Florence, Hawai‘i 2010 - Raoni Monteiro, Brazil 2009 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2008 - C.J. Hobgood, USA 2007 - Makuakai Rothman, Hawa`i

Mason Ho Photo: WSL/Keoki

2006 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2005 - Jake Patterson, AUS 2004 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i 2003 - Jake Patterson, AUS 2002 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2001 - Myles Padaca, Hawa`i 2000 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i

Goofyfoot powerhouse Ryan Callinan prepares for his heat. Photo: WSL/Heff

1999 - Zane Harrison, AUS 1998 - Shane Dorian, Hawai‘i

Australia’s Wade Carmichael is pound for pound one of the most powerful surfers on tour and a former finalist at the 2017 Vans World Cup. Photo: WSL/Keoki

1997 - Michael Rommelse, AUS 1996 - Paul Patterson, AUS 1995 - Shane Powell, AUS 1994 - Sunny Garcia, Hawai‘i 1993 - John Gomes, Hawai‘i 1992 - Martin Potter, United Kingdom 1991 - Fabio Gouveia, Brazil 1990 - Derek Ho, Hawai‘i 1989 - Hans Hedemann, Hawai‘i 1988 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1987 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1986 - Hans Hedemann, Hawai‘i

BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS Men's CT - Banzai Pipeline Dec 8 - 20, 2019

Pipeline, the most iconic wave in surfing, seen here from above. At a distance, its beauty deceptively masks the extreme danger inherent in riding the wave. A fitting venue for the grand finale of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and the WSL competitive year, the Billabong Pipe Masters is one of the most spectacular shows in surfing.

Photo: Mike Ito

The final jewel of the Vans Triple Crown (VTCS) and the only WSL Championship Tour (CT) event of the series, the prestige of the Billabong Pipe Masters is unrivaled in competitive surfing. The wave of waves, the Banzai Pipeline sets the bar to a towering height, to which all other waves in the world are compared and to which very few come even remotely close. For the WSL Top 34 surfers, along with local wildcard qualifiers, this is the final CT battle of the year and everything is on the line: Pipe Masters glory, the allusive Triple Crown trophy, world title dreams, and last-ditch qualification efforts. It all takes place just a few dozen yards from shore in some of the most intense and exhilarating barreling waves the world has to offer.

While tube rides can be offered at both Hale‘iwa and Sunset, a majority of the competition at the first two stops of the VTCS is judged on the high-performance surfing done outside the curl.

Meanwhile, the cavernous barrels that explode along Pipeline’s shallow reef are so awe-inspiring that generally whatever happens beyond the barrel diminishes in comparison.

Interesting to note, regularfooters have the statistical advantage at the Billabong Pipe Masters. Gabriel Medina is only the second goofy-footer, along with Rob Machado in 2000, to have won the event since Tom Carroll in 1991.

Features 36 Competitors Main Event - Plus 32 Invitational Trialists First Place Prize: $100,000 Championship Tour Event (CT) Defending Champion: Gabriel Medina (BRA)

Billabong Pipe Masters Wave Characteristics Pipeline breaks from 2-15 feet.

Waves begin to wash through from the outer reefs when the swell gets over the 15 foot range.

Beautiful barreling waves are produced from deep ocean swells hitting the shallow reef below.

Pipeline is made up of a series of different reefs, or take-off zones: First Reef, Second Reef, and Third Reef.

Waves are best on west or northwest swells.

While historically known as a dominant left-hander, Pipeline has become equally defined by the incredible rights at Backdoor.

One of the most dangerous waves in the world, Pipeline has the ominous statistic of claiming more lives than any other wave on the planet, averaging one fatality a year.

Spectator Notes Public restrooms, showers, and picnic tables are available at ‘Ehukai Beach Park.

The wave breaks just 30 yards from shore, providing the ultimate viewing experience.

Do not approach the shore break. Be vigilant and watch for high washing waves, especially at high tides. Children and personal belongings could be swept away in the strong rip current. Ask the lifeguards on duty any ocean safety questions.

Heed all warning signs and announcements.

Food and drinks are generally available for purchase from onsite vendors during the event.

Additionally, there are numerous food trucks and vendors along Kamehameha Highway. Water

bottle refill stations will also be available.

Where to Park ‘Ehukai Beach Park has a small parking lot.

There is additional parking along Kamehameha Highway.

Heed all ‘No Parking’ signs.

Use good judgement when parking along the highway and be respectful of neighborhood residents.

Take advantage of public transportation or the North Shore bike path that runs parallel to the shore.

Coach’s Corner Rainos Hayes, North Shore local, Billabong Hawai‘i Team Manager, Personal Coach to CT Competitors Courtney Conlogue and Seth Moniz“For Pipe, you have to be versatile; the years of having an advantage because you are a goofy-foot are long gone. Most of the winners tend to be regularfooted these days. You can [take off] later on the lefts as a regularfoot. And the right tends to lean more towards regular-foots as well with a lot more technical pieces in the wave, its length, and having to fabricate some of your rides, and break through weird sections—it’s not the most user friendly thing for backsided goofy-foots. What really pushed the regular-footed dominance over the edge was Andy, Bruce, Jamie, and Kelly. They were so good out there.”

It could be said that no stronger of a bond exists between a surfer and a wave than Kelly Slater and Pipeline. The seven-time Billabong Pipe Masters champion (and 11-time WSL world champion) redefined how the most iconic wave on the planet is surfed. In the twilight of his competitive career at 47 years old, Slater still remains an outright favorite when the waves get serious.

Photo: WSL/Cestari

Billabong Pipe Masters

The versatility, power, and commitment of Ryan Callinan’s surfing is an ideal match for the challenge of Pipe.

Photo: WSL/Cestari

South Africa’s Jordy Smith has done well to evolve his surfing from the high-performance wunderkind in his rookie years, to becoming a serious threat in all conditions. Having recently moved to the North Shore, his comfort level in Pipe’s challenging lineup has shown with a Finals appearance in last year’s event. At press, Smith maintains a mathematical chance at the world title, so he’ll be aiming for a major finish at the Billabong Pipe Masters.

Photo: WSL/Cestari

Still fresh off his historic win at this year’s Tahiti Pro, Owen Wright has overcome extreme adversity to regain his true form as one of the world’s very best in extreme surf. Suffering a traumatic head injury at Pipeline during a freesurf in 2015, Wright has endured an arduous recovery, making his recent victories that much sweeter. Wearing a protective helmet during competition in Tahiti, Wright spoke of the extra confidence it provided and was looking forward to carry that momentum into this year’s Billabong Pipe Masters.

Photo: WSL/Cestari

Billabong Pipe Masters Champions 2018 - Gabriel Medina, BRA 2017 - Jeremy Flores, FRA 2016 - Michel Bourez, PYF 2015 - Adriano de Souza, BRA 2014 - Julian Wilson, AUS 2013 - Kelly Slater, USA 2012 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2011 - Kieren Perrow, AUS 2010 - Jeremy Flores, FRA 2009 - Taj Burrow, AUS 2008 - Kelly Slater, USA 2007 - Bede Durbidge, AUS 2006 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i 2005 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i 2004 - Jamie O’Brien, Hawai‘i 2003 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i 2002 - Andy Irons, Hawai‘i

Reigning Billabong Pipe Masters champion and 2019 WSL world title favorite, Gabriel Medina will be a force to be reckoned with at this year’s event. Photo: WSL/Ed Sloane

Two-time Billabong Pipe Masters champion and this year’s Quiksilver Pro France victor, Jeremy Flores is always a major contender at Pipeline.

Photo: WSL/Ed Sloane

2001 - Bruce Irons, Hawai‘i 2000 - Rob Machado, USA 1999 - Kelly Slater, USA 1998 - Jake Paterson, AUS 1997 - John Gomes, Hawai‘i 1996 - Kelly Slater, USA 1995 - Kelly Slater, USA 1994 - Kelly Slater, USA 1993 - Derek Ho, Hawai‘i 1992 - Kelly Slater, USA 1991 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1990 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1989 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1988 - Rob Page, AUS 1987 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1986 - Derek Ho, Hawai‘i 1985 - Mark Occhilupo, AUS 1984 - Joey Buran, USA 1983 - Dane Kealoha, Hawai‘i 1982 - Michael Ho, Hawai‘i 1981 - Simon Anderson, AUS 1980 - Mark Richards, AUS 1979 - Larry Blair, AUS 1978 - Larry Blair, AUS 1977 - Rory Russell, Hawai‘i 1976 - Rory Russell, Hawai‘i 1975 - Shaun Tomson, S, Africa 1974 - Jeff Crawford, USA 1973 - Gerry Lopez, Hawai‘i

Australia’s Ace Buchan is one of the World Tour’s most astute competitors and has proven himself to be especially lethal in heavy surf. Photo: WSL/Cestari

1972 - Gerry Lopez, Hawai‘i 1971 - Jeff Hakman, Hawai‘i

North Shore Winter 2019 Event Calendar The North Shore offers more than just surf this winter. Check out our calendar of community events happening this season.

Oct. 1 - Nov. 21 RED BULL QUEEN OF THE BAY AT WAIMEA This all-female big wave surfing event only runs in the right conditions making its occurrence rare and cherished.

The day-long event was founded in 2010

by Betty Depolito and honors women who have broken down barriers in the surfing world. Female surfers from around the world join elite Hawai’i talent. redbull.com/ queenofthebay

Nov 1 - March 31 JAWS BIG WAVE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS AT PE‘AHI Pe‘ahi, Maui Held exclusively when this legendary Maui wave delivers, this outer island challenge is one in which only the bravest big wave surfers dare to compete. Onlookers perch themselves cliffside and gasps are audible as surfers including 2018 winner Billy Kemper, Maui residents Kai Lenny and Albee Layer, and others from across the globe paddle or tow into waves of unfathomable magnitude. worldsurfleague.com

Oct. 28 - Nov. 10 VANS PRO PRESENTED BY HIC AT SUNSET BEACH The official local qualifying event for hopefuls of the Vans Triple Crown series. This contest is the Hail Mary for surfers trying to earn the points needed to compete in the Vans Triple Crown. The contest serves as a proving ground for those on the brink of a CT career. vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com

Nov. 1 7:00 - 10:00pm WORLD PREMIERE OF “BREAKING BOUNDARIES” & TALK STORY WITH THE GAUDUASKAS BROTHERS SURFER the Bar, Turtle Bay Resort See the world premiere of “Breaking Boundaries”, a board drive for Trinidad & Tobago presented by Vans and the Positive Vibe Warrior Foundation. The flick will be followed by a Talk Story with the Gudauskas Brothers, hosted by North Shore emcee Rocky Canon. This is an all-ages event. turtlebayresort.com/Oahu-Restaurants/ Surfer-The-Bar

Nov. 9 HIC PRESENTS THE VANS PRO BEACH CLEANUP HOSTED BY SURFRIDER O‘AHU James Campbell National Wildlife Refuge, Kahuku 9:30am - Noon Due to ocean currents and wind patterns, James Campbell is the accumulation point of the majority of marine debris on O‘ahu, making it a crucial beach to take care of. HIC and Vans have partnered with community nonprofit Surfrider Foundation O‘ahu to remove thousands of pounds of plastic, and we will need your help! facebook.com/surfrideroahu

Nov. 13 - Nov. 24 VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING HAWAIIAN PRO AT ALI‘I BEACH PARK The first event of the Vans Triple Crown is held in Haleiwa Town, just outside the boat harbor. Watch from the sands of Haleiwa Beach Park as the battle for the crown begins at this challenging reef break. vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com

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Nov. 16 SURFRIDER O‘AHU PRESENTS THE 17TH ANNUAL JOHN KELLY AWARDS AT WAIMEA VALLEY Join Surfrider at their annual bash recognizing surfer Carissa Moore and others for the groundbreaking role each has played in supporting ocean-minded environmental awareness. Don your best aloha wear, sip cocktails, enjoy a locally sourced dinner from Ke Nui Kitchen, shop the silent auction, and dance to live jams from Henry Kapono. johnkellyawards.com

Nov. 25 - Dec. 6 HAWAI‘I PRO HONOLUA BAY, MAUI The capstone to the Women’s Championship Tour, the Hawai‘i Pro crowns the undisputed World Champion along with an event winner at Honolua Bay, a picture-perfect wave that saw Hawai‘i’s own Carissa Moore earn the event win with progressive power-surfing while Australia’s Stephanie Gilmore won her seventh World Title in a convergence of feelgood female dominance. worldsurfleague.com

Nov. 25 - Dec. 7 VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING VANS WORLD CUP OF SURFING AT SUNSET BEACH PARK This second event of the Vans Triple Crown takes place at world-famous Sunset Beach, an iconic wave of the Seven Mile Miracle.

Sunset’s challenging wave generates long rides and requires a trained eye to know where to paddle out. The Vans World Cup of Surfing is the final QS event of the WSL season and will determine next year’s CT lineup, heightening the stakes for this competition. vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com

MIKALA JONES

BEACH FREELY

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Nov. 28 THANKSGIVING | NO COMPETITION Nov. 30 10:00am - 1:00pm MAULI OLA SURF EXPERIENCE DAY AT HALEIWA BEACH PARK Mauli Ola Foundation hosts a surf experience day focusing on waves and wellness. Catch waves alongside some of your favorite pros at this free event aimed to bring about awareness surrounding genetic diseases.

Mauliola.org

Nov. (TBD) NORTH SHORE LIFEGUARD ASSOCIATION SURFER the Bar, Turtle Bay Resort The North Shore Lifeguard Association hosts a documentary highlighting the dangers of the job through the narrative of Ben Carlson, a renowned Newport Beach lifeguard who lost his life during a rescue. turtlebayresort.com or IG @ northshorelifeguardassociation

Dec. 5 SURFER POLL AWARDS AT TURTLE BAY RESORT You’ve watched ‘em win (and lose) at surf breaks all year long. Now watch your favorite surfers (and water photographers, videographers, and other industry members) as they recap the year and celebrate together with awards as voted by YOU. The event is closed to the public but can be watched live online. Come get rowdy at SURFER the Bar for the official after party, open to the public. surferawards.com

Dec. 6 6:00 - 9:00pm SUNSET BEACH ELEMENTARY SCHOOL’S SURF NIGHT AT SBES CAFETERIA Your favorite surfers take the time to give back to the elementary school across the street from Pipe (several are alum). Hang with your heroes in the cafeteria as they sign posters, shake hands, and pose for pics.

Enter the raffle for a chance to win sick prizes throughout the night.

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Dec. 7 5:00pm - 9:00pm NORTH SHORE COMMUNITY LAND TRUST: BENEFIT FOR THE COUNTRY The Stables at Turtle Bay Resort A fundraiser for the North Shore Community Land Trust, a local nonprofit headed by T&C’s Adam Borrello, works to protect the natural landscape, beaches, and cultural heritage of the North Shore. The gala always delivers, serving up delicious pupus, dance-worthy live beats, a silent auction, ono dinner, and drinks flowing all evening long. northshoreland.org

Dec. 8 - Dec. 20 VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS ‘Ehukai Beach Park The culminating event of the Vans Triple Crown is a nail-biter for competitors and onlookers alike. Pipe’s legendary waves are easily viewed from the beach as the best surfers in the world face the infamous break. The grand finale of the event trifecta will crown the Champion of the Vans Triple Crown as well as the Men’s World Champion and Billabong Pipe Masters event winner.

Vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com Photo: Noyle

N O R T H

Dec. 8 - 20 WSL & KOKUA HAWAI‘I FOUNDATION’S ETHAN ESTESS ART ACTIVATION Last year, surfer and artist Ethan Estess brought his upcycled ghost net wave to Ehukai Beach Park to highlight the growing global crisis of ocean trash. This December, Estess brings that same awareness with a new project in partnership with WSL PURE, Kokua Hawai‘i Foundation, and Sustainable Coastlines Hawai‘i. worldsurfleague.com

Dec. 8 VOLCOM ART MASH AT THE VOLCOM HOUSE Reconnecting with their artsy roots, Volcom opens their iconic Pipe House doors for an art show featuring photographers, cartoonists, graffiti artists, and more. Swing by for a low key drink with friends, live music from surfers

C A L E N D A R

and local musicians, and an eyeful of Volcom’s best creativity. Follow Freesurf Mag & Volcom on Instagram and Facebook for further details.

IG @volcomhawaii_

Dec. 12 - Dec. 15 BIG WAVE RISK ASSESSMENT GROUP PRESENTS O‘AHU BWRAG Global Safety Summit at Turtle Bay Resort A hands-on training course for surfers and waterman aimed at educating people on the risks related to big wave riding and how to best avoid tragedy. Trainings focus on skill building, technology, and risk assessment.

The course will leave you feeling ready to take on the infamous waves of winter without making a complete kook of yourself (and avoid risking serious injury). bwrag.com

Dec. 13 6:00pm HALEIWA CHRISTMAS PARADE Christmas comes to Kamehameha Highway as floats, horses, marching bands, even the septic tank pump truck put on their holiday best and cruise through town. The parade runs from Weed Circle to the Haleiwa Beach Park War Memorial.

Dec. (TBD) PATAGONIA HALEIWA TALK STORY WITH GREG LONG Attend this free after-hours talk story with big wave surfer Greg Long at Patagonia’s Haleiwa store. The California surfer will thrill with tales from his time in the water, including winning prestigious events such as the Eddie Aikau Quiksilver Invitational and Red Bull Titans of Mavericks. Stay tuned to Freesurf Mag & Patagonia Haleiwa’s Instagram and Facebook for details.

IG @patagonia_haleiwa

YOUR NORTH SHORE REAL ESTATE RESOURCE Let us share our local knowledge with you! Servicing all of Oahu, specializing in North Shore properties. Stop by our office at the Haleiwa Store Lots for a free market analysis, and meet our North Shore Real Estate Experts:

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Realtor, Owner, Principle Broker | RB-19578

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(808) 637-1500 BETTERHAWAII.COM Proud Supporters of the NORTH SHORE MENEHUNE SURF CONTEST ©2019 Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty North Shore. Better Homes and Gardens® is a registered trademark of Meredith Corporation licensed to Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate LLC. Equal Opportunity Company.

Equal Housing Opportunity. An Independently Owned and Operated Franchise. Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty North Shore are affiliates of Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty.

(2017 Menehune Surf Contest Award Board)

the freshman Hawai’i’s Seth Moniz reflects on his breakthrough rookie year and his hopes for a Vans Triple Crown Title B Y

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Seth Moniz is at the forefront of the class of surfers who are equally comfortable innovating the latest hi-fi maneuvers as they are conquering some of the world's most extreme waves. Here, Moniz demonstrates the latter at Pipeline.

Photo: gOnzo

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M O N I Z

Obviously, there are rookies every year and some of them are able to adapt, some crumble straight away, and for others, it takes them a few years to really find their feet. What do you attribute your success in being able to compete with these guys on the top level right out of the gate?

It has been well documented just how tough the competition is on the WSL World Tour these days. The performance levels of the Top 32 are through the roof and the chance of a walk-through heat is a thing of the past—not exactly a welcoming environment for a rookie fresh off the Qualifying Series. With the odds stacked against him, Hawai‘i’s Seth Moniz is nonetheless wrapping up one of the most impressive rookie years in recent memory and is looking to punctuate his first year on the CT with a strong finish at the Vans Triple Crown.

Honestly, in my first event it was like, Boom! and it clicked just like that. I don't think any of the other rookies made it past round three other than myself. So, to have a quick start like that was huge, and it got my confidence up. Also, I think a lot of the waves on the CT suit my surfing a lot more than they did on the QS. Bigger waves like Chopes, Bells Beach, or The Box… waves of consequence. I think that's helped me a lot to get that edge over these guys.

You must be pretty stoked about how things have gone so far for your rookie season. What are your thoughts on how the year unfolded?

I started off really good at the beginning of the year, so that was a huge help. For me, the challenge was in trying to build the confidence in knowing I could beat these guys, so that's where I'm at right now. I'm really happy about where I've come from, from the first competition to now. I think it's made a huge change in my surfing. And not just my surfing, but my mindset: I've learned a lot and I feel like I jumped forward five years. Being on the QS can hold you in one place for so long. And then, during this one year here on the CT, I feel like I've learned so much more than I ever would have stuck on the QS.

Your coach, Rainos Hayes, made a point of saying he thinks most guys probably haven't seen you do three full turns on a wave, especially the judges.

They're all expecting you to do airs and be good in the barrel, not knowing if you have the full package.

For sure, I think a lot of the guys didn't know I could do turns or stuff like that. I don't really show that side of my surfing in the clips I put out. Those are usually just airs and one-banger maneuvers. I think that probably adds a little element of surprise. People are like, ‘Oh, he can do a turn?’ [Laughs].

It's like getting thrown in a pit with a bunch of hungry lions and having no choice but to figure a way out.

The strong fundamentals of Moniz’s surfing is a major factor separating his air game from most of the pack.

Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

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What was your mindset the week before the first event compared to how it is now? Were you nervous?

I was so nervous. About a week out from the first event, I would lay in bed for hours and just be like, ‘I can't wait for my first heat.’ But now I feel super comfortable and relaxed going into heats. Rainos and I break out our game plan in which I know, from point A to B, what I am going to do. I think that's the most important thing going into heats: knowing your game plan and not second-guessing anything.

And, if anything falls apart, I know what to do. If you have that game plan taken care of then you can just let the surfing do its own thing.

You don't have to think much when you have everything in place beforehand, and I think that helps your surfing a lot.

So how are you feeling about this year’s Vans Triple Crown? Now that you're on the CT and qualification isn't an issue, and you’re not chasing the QS, what is your mindset going into the VTCS? I didn't have to do any QS events this year, and that's been a great bonus for me as I get to spend that extra time at home. But going into the winter, the big goal is always to get a Triple Crown title.

M O N I Z

Especially being a local, I grew up wanting that title. I'm going to go hard at Hale‘iwa and see how that goes. And, if I don't kill it in Hale‘iwa, I don't know, I may want to save it up for the Pipe Masters and be really focused to do well in that event. So we'll see how Hale‘iwa goes for me. But then again, last year Jesse [Mendes] just made two finals and then lost early in the Pipe Masters. So, you can win it in just two events and that's a cool thing about it.

What would winning a Vans Triple Crown mean to you?

I don't really have any big wins as a pro yet. I have some good results here and there, but I don't have something that really stands out like a Triple Crown win. It would be pretty awesome when I retire to say that I won one of them.

It’s definitely the hardest it's ever been to win the Triple Crown, or any professional event for that matter. The level is through the roof right now, which is pretty sick to be a part of.

What is competing at home like for you: are you relaxed or is there added pressure?

Moniz’s rookie year success has proven he’s much more than just a barrell and air guy. Photo: WSL/Ed Sloane

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I try to keep every event the same in my mind, no matter where I am. At home, you have more fans watching or your family coming down to support you, so that can be a little added pressure. I don't let it get to me too much though, I just kind of take it all in and enjoy it. Last year when I qualified, we had my grandma and cousins down there. Family that have never come down nor seen me surf were there, and that was pretty cool. Surfing at home is definitely a lot more fun. These are the places I'm most comfortable with and I get to see my family.

It must be nice to have that long chunk of time at home.

Yeah, it’s so good after a long year. Right now, you can see it in everyone's faces on Tour: they're all tired and guys are getting little injuries here and there. For the guys from Hawai‘i, we're lucky we get to come home and finish off the Tour while the other guys are still traveling. They're still not sleeping in their own beds.

What’s your relationship with Hale‘iwa? It seems like a wave that’s well-suited for your surfing.

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WSL/Keoki

S E T H

"I try to keep every event the same in my mind, no matter where I am. At home, you have more fans watching or your family coming down to support you, so that can be a little added pressure. I don't let it get to me too much though, I just kind of take it all in and enjoy it. " -Seth Moniz

I think it kind of suits everyone's surfing on Tour. When it's 4-5 foot, it suits everyone basically. It’s kind of like a right-hand point break. Once it gets bigger, you start to see certain guys stand out. I think that's when I do better. I'm more comfortable when it's bigger and wild.

Last but not least, Pipeline: tell our readers about what it takes to earn your stripes out there?

When I was young, I spent so many hours and sessions not even catching a wave.

From when I was 13 to 15 years old, there were so many sessions where I'd paddle out, be out there for two hours, not catch a wave, and just paddle in. But I think those are the sessions that helped me the most, because when you're sitting on the side and in the channel, that's when you learn the most just by spending time out there.

You can't just rock up and kill it, and I think everyone knows that. Earning your spot and trying to get waves out there, you really have to put in the time.

At the end of the day, you’ve got to charge and just go for it. And you're going to fall a lot, but that will help you in the long run.

It's just trial and error in learning which waves are bad waves out there. It's a hard wave to read. Both Pipe and Backdoor are unpredictable; you just have to keep going for it.

How tricky of a wave is Pipe to compete in?

It’s so hard; it's like a big beachbreak. The lineup looks pretty small from the beach, but when you first start surfing heats you notice how big it really is. You're so used to there being like 300 guys in the lineup, so once you're out there with just three other guys and you don't have your usual lineup out there, it's easy to be confused as to where you are on the reef. Am I sitting too far in? Too far out? Because normally during a freesurf, you're basing your lineup off the boys sitting out the back, so I'm going to sit right under them and that's how I find my spot, based on where they sit. So, it’s tough to get used to not having that in a heat. Luckily, I’ve had a chance to surf some junior events and the Volcom Pipe Pro out there, and those experiences have left me feeling pretty confident about surfing heats at Pipeline.

Moving on to event number two, the Vans World Cup, what do you think is the biggest challenge at Sunset?

Sunset, it can just destroy you. You never know what you're going to get out there and there's no room for mistakes. You could go on one bad wave and that could be your entire heat, then you’re paddling for 15 minutes. It's such a huge playing field.

WSL/Ed Sloane

I love Sunset; I won a junior event there. But in the Triple Crown I haven't had much success.

I think I just haven't found that edge yet. I've had some really good, high-scoring heats, but never been able to come past round three and that kills me.

ezekiel lau BY

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Being an ambassador for Hawai‘i while traveling abroad means everything to 25-year-old Ezekiel “Zeke” Lau. Competing at the most elite level of performance surfing, the Hawaiian power-surfer spends the majority of the year chasing scores and putting on a show for the judges. So when November finally rolls around, Zeke gladly heads home to O‘ahu for some bigger surf in the Vans Triple Crown. Surrounded by family and friends, Zeke never fails to wow the crowd of the Seven Mile Miracle.

There’s no denying that Zeke Lau fits the epitome of a power-surfer: his sheer strength and athleticism are the results of years of several sports and dedicated training to his craft, which he claims developed in grom-hood at Kewalos.

He was fresh out of high school at Kamehameha when he claimed his first

Sunset Beach Pro win at only 19 years old, metaphorically tasting a champagne shower even before reaching the legal drinking age.

Flash forward to 2018, with some World Tour experience under his belt, and Zeke was a force to be reckoned with: he went on to solidify his second win at Sunset last season, getting closer than ever to a Triple Crown title—a career goal for Zeke—which would also mean requalification for the WCT. We sat down with Lau in Europe as he prepared to head home to chase his dreams of cinching that coveted Triple Crown title, the one he almost tasted last season, making him hungrier than ever to secure it this time around. He’s one of those surfers who’s sure to push fellow competitors to step up to the plate and surf their best, because on his home turf of Hawai‘i, no one wants to face a heat against Zeke Lau.

for me right now. I came so close last year; I think I only needed to make a couple more heats at Pipe.�

- Zeke Lau

Ryan "Chachi" Craig

“A Vans Triple Crown victory would mean everything

E Z E K I E L

I was competing at pretty much everything when I was younger. My dad had me playing soccer, basketball, baseball... but I loved to surf, so he entered me into the T&C Grom Contest and that was it; everything grew from there.

How did training at Kewalos help develop your surfing?

I call Kewalos my home break since it’s where I grew up surfing pretty much the majority of my grom life. It always has waves no matter what and catches every little swell, so it was perfect. My dad loved it because there was no sand, an easy parking lot, and showers.

We fell in love with it and I surfed there every day. I learned to do airs, turns, go left and go right, all there. It was everything I needed.

What does it mean to you to represent the Hawaiian Islands on a World Tour platform?

For me, representing Hawai‘i is everything.

It’s what I’ve always wanted to do, and what I was taught to do since I was a young kid in Kamehameha Schools. We were taught to do

that with everything we put our time into, and it feels good. Hawai‘i is the place where I live and has made me who I am. I love it.

Favorite wave in the world: I really love Jeffreys Bay. Going to South Africa is usually my favorite leg of the year.

It always seems to have good waves, good vibes, and good food. It’s one of those trips I really enjoy. J-Bay is an incredible wave and every year I try to get a little better at surfing it. It’s a hard wave to figure out, but it’s definitely one of my favorites.

Where is your headspace going into the Triple Crown?

I’m really looking forward to the Triple Crown; I always do. Being able to go home and sleep in your own bed while competing in front of the people you love is an amazing feeling.

I definitely want to do well there. It’s been hard to find a good rhythm anywhere else on Tour and on the QS, so I’m probably going to need some pretty good results. I’m hoping to do well.

Does your support crew at home help you relax?

Yeah, a little bit. They help me feel more comfortable, definitely in the off-time. But it almost feels like I put a little more pressure on myself knowing that they are there watching and supporting me, so I want to do well for them. It’s a good type of pressure though that I welcome.

What makes Hal‘eiwa a great spot to kick off the VTCS? It’s such a high-performance wave. The ride is fairly short, but it packs a lot of power. It offers a combination of high-performance surfing with barrels, airs, and big turns. Hale‘iwa is a really fun wave, and one of my favorites on the Tour. I seem to struggle during the comps, but hopefully this will be the year it all comes together.

Pre-heat warm-up routine: Before I go out to compete, I try to do whatever makes me feel comfortable. I want my body to feel good and have good energy—not tense. It’s not a set formula, but I take it day by day. Before the comp, I always like a warm-up surf. That helps me stay calm. I watch the waves and try to figure out a game plan, then execute.

Ryan "Chachi" Craig

How were you introduced to competitive surfing?

L A U

“For me, representing Hawai‘i is everything.

It’s what I’ve always wanted to do.” - Zeke Lau

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How did it feel to win at Sunset Beach (twice) in front of your home crowd?

The first time I won at Sunset was pretty insane! I was having a rough time on the QS; it was my first full year doing it right out of high school. So when I got to Sunset, I really wanted to perform and make myself feel good. Next thing you know, I built rhythm and focused the entire time to put on a performance. I found myself in the final and was pretty much on autopilot. It felt like things were just clicking. I wasn’t trying to control anything; everything just played out how it as supposed to. It was crazy because I was only 19 at the time, so to win a contest like that was huge. I was pretty stoked.

Winning [at Sunset Beach] again last year was really sick to come around full circle after having been on Tour. I used everything I learned on Tour to win that contest, and it felt pretty good.

What is it about Sunset that makes it the best spot to display your surfing?

There are not many other waves where you can get that much speed, space, and room to really draw your turns. It’s a really different pace from most other waves. Other spots seem quicker and you have to adjust really fast through turns. But at Sunset, you can really lay it down and draw it out, kind of exaggerating your turns. It’s a totally different feeling. It seems to work for me.

been on the road for the entire year coming off the Europe leg and going straight into Hawai‘i. Luckily for us, we get to go home while everyone else has to travel one more time. Everything feels more intense.

Were you motivated by Sebastian Zietz's breakthrough performance during the 2012 Triple Crown?

Lau claimed the throne at home at Sunset Beach in both 2013 and 2018. Photo: WSL/Cestari

"I found myself in the final and was pretty much on autopilot. It felt like things were just clicking.

I wasn’t trying to control anything; everything just played out how it as supposed to. It was crazy because I was only 19 at the time, so to win a contest like that was huge."

-Zeke Lau

What does your quiver look like for the Hawai‘i leg?

Would you say that Pipe is the best wave in the world?

It’s usually a 10-15 board quiver, depending on how many I need. I usually get anything from 6’2’’ to 7’0’’s. Right now, I’m riding all “Happy” models from Channel Islands by Britt Merrick, so hopefully they dial in some magic.

Yea, for sure! I love surfing Pipe. I’ve grown up trying to keep up with John [Florence] and the boys, and now I’m surfing it with Seth and Josh Moniz. It’s a really fun wave, and I look forward to getting better there every year. To be able to compete there at the highest level is pretty insane, and something that I always look forward to.

What would a Vans Triple Crown victory mean to you?

WSL/Ed Sloane

What’s the recipe for success at the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing?

I think it’s important not to have too many expectations, because if the waves aren't the best it can make it harder. So I’m going into without any expectations, ready for anything to just make it happen. Triple Crown can be the hardest competitions because it’s at the end of the year, everyone’s tired and has

Yeah, the breakthrough performances that happen in Hawai‘i are pretty crazy. It’s always something that was really glamorized for me. My coach, Dave Riddle, always put an emphasis on doing really good at home in Hawai‘i and how big of a deal it was, so I’ve always had that as a big goal of mine—to have a good performance in the wintertime.

I remember watching Seabass win Haleiwa.

I made the Quarters that year and ended up watching the rest of the day. It was cool to see him step up and win. Next thing you know he was on Tour. Kaiborg [Garcia] said that he had spent all his money on a new quiver from Channel Islands and that’s why he won the Triple Crown. After I heard that I was like, 'Wow, I need some Channel Islands Surfboards.’ That inspired my desire to ride for Channel Islands. I ended up on the team and I think that was the best thing that ever happened in my career [thus far].

Performances like his really inspire me. I’ve always wanted to have a breakthrough year in the Triple Crown, so hopefully this will be my year!

That would mean everything for me right now. I came so close last year; I think I only needed to make a couple more heats at Pipe.

I lost to Jesse Mendes, and he went on to win the Triple Crown. I got pretty close, so this year I’m looking to get another shot to finish it off. We’ll see! It’s always a goal of mine to win the Triple Crown and have a really good showing at home. Hopefully I can pull off a Triple Crown title.

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Moments of performance surfing alchemy abound during the six weeks of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, as the combination of surfing talent and quality waves crammed into this small stretch of coastline are unlike anywhere else in the world. While competitive glory is the main storyline of the VTCS, there are no shortage of moments of pure surfing bliss between the heats during the season. Owen Wright in a moment of personal glory at Pipeline. Photo: Mike Latronic

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Italo Ferreira, OTW lefts. Photo: Pedro Gomes

Zeke Lau, OTW. Photo: gOnzo

Koa Rothman, Pipe Photo: Austin Moore

Pipe shoreline Photo: Keoki

Barron Mamiya, Pipe. Photo: Ryan "Chachi" Craig

Michael Ho, Backdoor. Photo: gOnzo

Gabriel Medina, Insanities. Photo: Andrew Oliver

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against the odds

Jesse Mendes 2018 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion B Y

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The fraternity of Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champions is one of the most exclusive circles in professional surfing, with only 18 winners in its 36 years of existence. With a few exceptions, this prestigious series has been won by some of the biggest icons of the sport: John John Florence, Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, Sunny Garcia, Tom Carroll, Michael and Derek Ho, to name a few. Last year, with the odds stacked against him, Brazil’s Jesse Mendes had the breakthrough performance of his career and added his name to this illustrious crew.

Jesse Mendes and the winning form that garnered him a monumental Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Title. Sunset Beach, 2018. Photo: WSL/Heff

OL I V E R

While Mendes is a member of the WSL World Championship Tour, and had over a decade of experience on the North Shore, it’s safe to say he was a distant long-shot to win last year’s title.

We spoke with Mendes about this monumental achievement and his hopes for this year’s Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

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M E N D E S WSL/Keoki

A G A I N S T

2018 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion—that must still sound crazy when you hear it!

WSL/Ed Sloane

It is crazy! It was a childhood dream. It is something that is so distant for most surfers... something so special to achieve, that I haven’t fully processed it yet. It seems like it is still just a dream.

The versatile young Brazilian’s surfing is explosive, stylish, and fearless - qualities that are well-paired with the diverse conditions of the Vans Triple Crown. Mendes slicing a Hale’iwa lip (above) and gliding into a Pipe beauty (below).

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Now that it’s been a year to sink in, what does it feel like? What does it mean to you?

Other than Gabriel Medina in 2015, there hasn’t been a goofyfoot Triple Crown champion in over 20 years (Michael Rommelse, 1997). You essentially won on your backside with your results at Hale‘iwa and Sunset.

How tough is it to surf those waves on your backside?

It feels amazing, it’s something that I will carry under my belt forever... I think it will sink in more when this season starts and I am back in Hawai‘i. I am excited for that!

Wow, I didn’t even know it was that long since the last goofyfooter won the Vans Triple Crown before Gabe. For me, I think Sunset is the trickiest one. The barrel on the end section is crazy hard to read and it’s so bumpy. On your backhand, since you usually grab your rail, it seems like you’re riding a giant bull and you can’t really absorb the bumps and backwash. I think that’s what makes it so tough out of those two spots. That’s one of the toughest tasks for a goofyfoot.

How important is the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing to the sport?

In my opinion, it is the biggest achievement after the world title. You have to be so consistent in such a challenging environment.

There is such a huge difference in conditions from spot to spot and from day to day. That is what makes Vans Triple Crown so special.

You’ve put in a lot of time on the North Shore over the years. What were some of the biggest challenges for you when you first started coming here?

Yes, I have been coming to Hawai‘i every season at least once since I was 11. The biggest challenges for me, coming from Brazil, was the power of the waves, getting used to surfing in such powerful and heavy waves, and knowing how to read the lineup in such a different ocean than what I’m used to at home.

Jesse Mendes celebrates.

Photo: WSL/Ed Sloane

"It is crazy, it was a childhood dream. It is something that is

How are you feeling about defending your title in 2019?

so distant for most surfers... something so special to achieve, that I haven’t fully processed it yet. It seems like it is still just a dream. " -Jesse Mendes

Who do you see as other major contenders for the Triple Crown?

You always seem very comfortable in Hawai‘i but last year was really special. What clicked for you? Did you do anything differently?

John John Florence, Zeke Lau, Jordy Smith, Gabriel Medina, and Julian Wilson.

At this point, you’re in a similar position as you were in last year, needing some big results to close out 2019. What are some lessons you learned from last year's success?

I think last year I had a different drive. I was falling off Tour; I needed huge results, both on the CT and QS for requalification. So before Hawai’i, I sat down and thought to myself, ‘Ok you have experience there and this year is the year to put all of that into practice.’ I gave it all I had and put all of my experience from all the time I spent in the water as a grom in those conditions and gratefully God rewarded me with a cherry on top!

A lesson learned is that the game is only over when it’s finished. No matter what situation you are in, things can change. Most importantly, [is having] faith that God wants the best for me and to try my hardest.

Finally, as a Triple Crown champion, what does it take to earn that title?

WSL/Ed Sloane

What are some of the biggest challenges when competing in Hawai‘i?

The ocean, no doubt! You’re surfing against the ocean. Seriously, when it’s on and it’s big, which is what Hawai‘i is all about, you barely see your opponents in the water. You’re battling against yourself, your fears, and the ocean.

Feeling great! After you’ve achieved something so big, you know the path and you know what to do to get there. It becomes clearer and easier to visualize. Obviously, it’s so hard to make it happen again… but I’m excited to try!

It takes lots and lots of time spent in Hawai‘i, and once you think you have enough hours of experience, you’re still far from it! You will never have enough experience out there; you’re always learning: the waves, ocean swells, from the locals, and a bunch more.

Seth Moniz, one of Rainos’ star athletes, true to form at Pipeline. Photo: WSL/Cestari

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Andrew Oliver

RAINOS HAYES O L I VER

One of the more familiar faces of the Vans Triple Crown is the perpetually stoked Rainos Hayes, Billabong Hawai‘i Team Manager and personal coach to WSL athletes Seth Moniz and Courtney Conlogue.

Rainos has well over two decades of experience coaching junior and professional athletes in Hawai‘i and around the world. As a lifelong North Shore resident and former professional surfer himself, Rainos has an intimate understanding of all three Vans Triple Crown venues, and is one of the most sought-after and respected coaches on the North Shore.

What are the keys to success in the Vans Triple Crown?

I think one of the keys to success in Hawai‘i is having spent time at the breaks. Having as much of a personal relationship as you can have with Hale‘iwa, Sunset, or Pipeline is huge in making a result. If you can know the subtleties and nuances of the break and know how to play the game, know what the judges are really looking for, then you are that much closer to the result you want. On the other hand, the guy

Rainos’ breadth of knowledge and personal experience in competitive surfing in Hawai‘i is unparalleled. Freesurf caught up with him to talk about the Vans Triple Crown and the significance of these events to Hawai‘i’s competitive surfers.

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Hayes and McGill pre-heat, 100% focus.

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Longtime pupil, Finn McGill, practicing what Coach Rainos preaches at Sunset.

Photo: WSL/Keoki

I love that! It's almost like you could skip all the travel to events around the world; just stay home, surf two world-class venues (Hale‘iwa and Sunset) until you master those spots, then dominate those events when the Vans Triple Crown comes along.

who hasn't spent the time, doesn't know what he's looking at… he is left just guessing.

Who are you looking out for at this year's Vans Triple Crown?

I'm always looking for the Hawai‘i guys to do well in the Triple Crown, and we have great representation compared to the rest of the world in these two QS 10,000 events.

The local guys need to be the specialists they really are, on any given day, at these breaks. These events are so key because with two good results in these events and you could actually be on Tour. If you have any type of result rolling in here, say maybe even 5,000 points in your back pocket, and you can come up with two finals in these two events, there you go. You can make the Tour just like Dusty [Payne] or Seabass [Sebastian Zietz] did, or flip a result just like Pancho [Sullivan] did, and get on the World Tour.

[Laughs] You can almost do that! But I would love to see them capitalize on these events as much as possible. The guys that have a lot of experience at these breaks and surf well enough to win them, guys like Billy Kemper or Tanner Hendrickson, and the up-and-coming guys like Josh Moniz, they have their shot right now to do it.

There are guys that are coming here who are going to capitalize on that shot. Someone like Jack Robinson who's had a few decent results this year, he’s coming into Hale‘iwa and Sunset, two venues where he is pretty deadly, and he's not here to lose. He’s all in. Those events could very well be what pushes him over the edge.

And I'd love to see that for our local guys. They have their shot right now, too, and you know, it doesn't matter what round they start in.

Makua Rothman and Mason Ho are other prime examples of guys who have great relationships with both of these waves and are excellent performers. Makua has won at Sunset at the World Cup before.

On the other side, there are examples of guys kind of crumbling to that pressure of being at home in two huge back-to-back events in waves that are incredibly challenging. Even if you're from here, the conditions are tough. On the one hand, the golden opportunity is here for the local guys, but it's not a cakewalk by any means.

WSL/Cestari

Josh Moniz will be looking to put his many years of close mentorship with Rainos to good use in his effort to join his brother, Seth, on the Championship Tour.

Photo: gOnzo Inset Photo: WSL/Cestari

No, it’s not. Some prime examples of guys who have done exceptionally well at home but then maybe weren't able to completely capitalize to get the results they needed, or to flip it onto qualifying for the World Tour, would be someone like Joel Centeio or even Freddy Patacchia, who was on the World Tour but never had the results in the Triple Crown that he was truly capable of. They should've had a leg up on everybody, but there is no guarantee. Granted, both of those guys have had amazing results in Hawai‘i, and even in the Triple Crown, but they weren't able to necessarily dominate the Triple Crown, which they were both more than capable of doing.

It speaks to how important and difficult each event is individually. Winning at Hale‘iwa, Sunset, or, obviously, the Billabong Pipe Masters, are huge accomplishments on their own. Whether it catapults you to the CT or not, winning one of the Vans Triple Crown events, like Joel did, for example... that's the highlight of his professional career. It is something he should be incredibly proud of. But where you’re coming from is looking back at the dominance of guys like Andy, Sunny, Michael or Derek Ho. Hawai‘i guys were synonymous with winning the Triple Crown back in the day and I would love to see that same emphasis placed on the Triple Crown again. Bring back that same level of dominance from our local surfers. It is something that is unique to Hawai‘i. Three worldclass venues that are all exceptionally high risk and whoever is able to risk it for those six weeks, comes out on top. It takes a lot of grit and determination. It shows who was ready for the real deal. And I

like that. It takes a lot of commitment to win the Triple Crown. You definitely have to be all in.

Back in the day, there were more local guys who really were that much better than the majority of the guys on Tour. I think what has changed is our local guys are still at that level, but the rest of the world has caught up. It's hard to argue that guys like Gabriel Medina, Jeremy Flores, Italo Ferreira, or someone like Owen Wright, are not some of the very best surfers in the world today, especially at performing in heavy surf. There was a time when the Tour guys weren't the best at performing in heavy surf and the local guys like: Dane Kealoha, Tony Moniz, Michael Ho, and Johnny Boy Gomes smoked them. They were far better than the traveling surfers. Nowadays, the traveling surfers, the majority of that top 32, are pretty much the best in the world.

With that said, the local guys get a shot at it and have a chance.

Hopefully, the Triple Crown comes to life for these guys, who are worth every bit of their weight in big surf, a spark to perform like they are truly capable of performing in these events. And that could be gamechanging for them. This year, you can look at Barron Mamiya. He is probably in the very best scenario he could be in. He's put himself in a position to capitalize on two places he has deep relationships with.

He's young, and this could be a life-changer for him. And that's what you hope for.

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“Hawai‘i is the best place in the world I think: it’s home and full of really good waves.”

- Imaikalani deVault

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Traveling around the globe on the WSL Qualifying Series, Maui’s Imaikalani deVault is clocking his share of miles chasing his dream of making the World Tour. At only 21 years old, he’s still getting his feet wet amongst the top seeds, but what strikes us most about him (as with many of the Maui community) is his humility.

Granted, we caught him at a peculiar time for our interview: we were in Ericeira, Portugal, for the QS 10,000 event and he had just scored the best wave of the contest—a 9.4 on a solid right-hander! However, when the horn blew, he was short of 0.5 points on his backup score in order to advance [deep exhale in frustration]. It was clear that Imai was ready to shed the wetsuit and head home to warmer waters, and so were we.

Being on Tour can be bittersweet for Hawai‘i surfers, as it seems like the one thing we can all agree on is that the best quality waves are often found at home in our backyards. We’re spoiled rotten by perfect surf, but guys like Imai keep a cool head on their shoulders while abroad and simply enjoy the journey, constantly pushing themselves to improve on all sorts of different waves. His Hawai‘i quiver, shaped

by KT on Maui, awaited his return for the Triple Crown events beginning at Haleiwa, a wave that Imai has been competing at since he was a grom. Excelling in bigger and more powerful surf, deVault is also looking forward to being in his element at Sunset Beach.

R E POR TI NG

We talked story about why Pipe is the best wave in the world, the contagious buzz found on the North Shore during the Vans Triple Crown, and what a breakthrough performance at VTCS means for the local Hawaiian competitors.

Are you excited to kick off the Hawai‘i leg back on your home turf?

Yeah, I am really excited! I always look forward to the Hawai‘i season, getting to compete at home and being comfortable with the waves. Hawai‘i is the best place in the world I think: it’s home and full of really good waves, big change from the typical QS grind the rest of the year in some small or bad surf, so it will be a nice change of pace.

I’m always looking forward to going home and surfing waves with more size.

What’s the vibe like during peak season on the Seven Mile Miracle?

The North Shore scene is definitely a whole other world compared to my home [Makawao]. But I enjoy competing, and it’s pretty easy for me to island hop to and from Maui (just a 30 minute flight) so there’s no time to get home sick.

I also have family on O`ahu so it’s an easy transition.

There’s so much going on during the Vans Triple Crown, like the Vans BBQ. The Gudauskus brothers are also organizing a Vans Stoke-O-Rama. The entire

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“Making two finals in the Triple Crown gives you a chance to qualify for the World Tour, and everybody knows that.”

Dayanidhi Das

- Imaikalani deVault

Pipe Masters has to be one of the hardest contests to secure a wildcard spot, so highly desired and competitive. What’s your approach going into the Trials?

Vans team is on the North Shore during the season, so it's always fun to be around the crew.

What makes Hale‘iwa so highly contestable?

Luckily, Hawaiians get a couple extra chances to show what we can do at Pipe. It’s a difficult wave to compete at in general, especially if it’s small or onshore. Some of my best freesurfs on the North Shore were definitely at Pipe; that’s the pinnacle of surfing anywhere. I always want to get good waves during the freesurfs to hopefully carry that over to the events. When you think of the North Shore, you think of Pipe. It’s an iconic spot. The danger level is real. It’s a really challenging wave.

It's scary, but I love it. Getting a good wave out there can change your life and help you get on the scene, if you’re not in there yet. It can open everyone’s eyes to see what you can do. That’s definitely the wave everyone is looking forward to most—especially freesurfing.

Hale‘iwa is great: it could be 6ft or 1ft lefts, so you never really know what you’re going to get. It’s actually a really tricky wave because of that. I grew up competing in NSSA contests and the Menehune events there, so I know the wave pretty well. Either way, if it’s big or small, I’m always looking forward to it.

You must be excited to surf pumping Sunset Beach for the Vans World Cup. Yeah, I think Sunset is my favorite wave to compete at. If there’s a lot of swell, it’s really tricky, but it’s my favorite spot to ride the big boards and being able to really surf. When I’m out there, I don’t think about the heat as much. Everyone’s out there just doing their own thing with the ocean, and I like that. I always look forward to Sunset.

Speaking of bigger boards, what does your winter quiver look like?The North Shore quiver varies from your typical 5’11’’ shortboard to a 7’6’’. I usually bring two of each board size from 5’10’’ to 7’. Then, if you want to paddle Waimea an even bigger board... I’m not really in the [big wave] paddle scene too much, but I like to watch those guys do that. At Pipe, I like to ride around a 6’10’’ if the waves are big, and down from there.

How do breakthrough performances by Hawai‘i surfers in the VTCS inspire you?

Sebastian Zietz and Dusty [Payne] are good examples of what can happen if you perform there. Everyone saw Seabass get his breakthrough result and make the Tour all thanks to the Triple Crown.

It has that effect, so if you can do well at a couple of the events, that’s huge. Being able to make two Triple Crown finals gives you a chance to qualify, and everybody knows that and looks forward to this time of year, especially the Hawaiians. That is my biggest dream—to win Triple Crown events. I am looking forward to seeing what happens this year. pau 90

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Full-Circle Sustainability at the 37th Annual Vans Triple Crown of Surfing

By Lauren Rolland

1,488 lbs. of recyclable materials were taken to a HI-5 facility and 3,264 lbs. of compostable material were taken to Waihuena Farm across from Pipeline in 2018, then chipped and processed and added to a compost pile with Bokashi (microbe nutrient) to assist in faster break down. The rich fertilizer is now sustaining the farm’s coconut grove for the North Shore community.

In a place like the North Shore where natural beauty is abundant, community resources are strong and residents strive to live a low-impact lifestyle, it is easy to see why environmental protection is important. The beaches and coastlines are playgrounds in Hawai‘i, and many feel a responsibility to help preserve it for future generations.

As a community partner for over three decades, Vans has endeavored to keep this culture close to heart and strives to remain accountable as one of Hawai‘i’s most sustainable event series and also improve each year in new, creative ways. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS) minimizes its footprint while staying true to the core by weaving together local activations, sustainability and competition throughout the eight-week-long series, which now includes the Vans Pro presented by HIC.

Seven years ago, the VTCS and Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii partnered to create a waste management program which today has grown into an environmentally aware program that demonstrates 360-degree sustainability. The VTCS program supports waste diversion from landfills and H-Power; composting at Waihuena Farm and in Waimanalo; recycling; creative upcycling like turning broken surfboards into trophies or event banners into reusable utensil kits; clean energy; carbon emission offsets; organic, local catering; healthy reefs; sustainable hydration; coastline preservation; public education and more.

Here is a closer look at the VTCS sustainability program:

2018 VTCS Waste Diversion Numbers Last year saw an overall waste diversion rate of 60% from landfills and H-Power incinerator.

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Cardboard from contest sites was used for weed control to reduce the need for herbicides, and food scraps became fertilizer for garden beds – the same beds that supply local food trucks like Ke Nui Kitchen with produce. This year, Ke Nui Kitchen will once again be the official caterer of the Vans Triple Crown and supply staff and contractors with healthful, organic and local meals throughout the surfing series.

New this year, the VTCS is reducing PLA bioplastics by switching to reusable dishware and implementing a zero-waste mentality.

Hydration Stations In partnership with Hydro Flask, WSL's official water bottle / drinkware event sponsor, the WSL and Vans are providing water stations at the VTCS to encourage plastic reduction and eliminate a single-use mentality. In addition to hydration stations, Hydro Flask also provides insulated hydration bottles to all event crew to eliminate single use plastics.

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Sunscreen Partnership Swap your chemical sunscreen and $5 in exchange for a 6oz. TropicSport bottle at any of the VTCS events this year! TropicSport is the WSL’s official sunscreen of North America and will be activating at the Billabong Pipe Masters this year to share sunscreen with spectators and athletes to promote reef-safe awareness.

Jodi Wilmott, GM North America + Hawaii

TropicSport is a mineral-based reef-safe sunscreen. Unlike other sunscreens that contain harsh active chemicals that harm our bodies and the fragile oceans, TropicSport uses minerals that are safe for your skin and our planet.

Traffic Mitigation WSL has once again partnered with Spectrum to provide their LIVE broadcast free across the state of Hawai‘i on Spectrum Surf channels 20 and 1020HD. Enjoy WSL’s leading-edge surfing webcast in the comfort of your own home, no transportation required!

For those planning to watch the events from the beach, WSL and Vans have partnered with North Shore Transport to help mitigate traffic by promoting daily on-demand shuttles to / from VTCS events from Turtle Bay Resort. Visit NorthShoreTransport.com for more details or stop by the desk in the Turtle Bay Resort lobby, next to Concierge, to book!

Catering / Ocean Friendly Restaurants Official event caterers of the VTCS use only certified compostable materials or reusable materials for meals and have eliminated single use plastics from their waste stream.

They are also Ocean Friendly Restaurant compliant, which means no Styrofoam, no plastics, paper straws upon request only, proper recycling practices are followed and more. Ocean Friendly Restaurants help increase awareness, drive behavior change and ultimately creates scalable impact to reduce our plastic footprint, one restaurant, one customer at a time.

Alternative Energy / Pacific Biodiesel The Vans Pro and VTCS broadcasts are powered by renewable energy through Pacific Biodiesel, using an 80/20 fuel blend (80% biodiesel / 20% petroleum diesel), which is made locally by collecting and recycling used cooking oil from Hawai‘i restaurants.

Pacific Biodiesel produces 100% renewable,

biodegradable and non-toxic advanced biofuel that is less toxic than table salt!

Pacific Biodiesel also produces culinary cooking oils from sustainably farmed sunflowers on Maui and macadamia nuts for Hawai‘i’s chefs, including Thomas Naylor of Ke Nui Kitchen, the VTCS’s official event caterer and food truck. Meals are tossed and prepared with the sunflower and macadamia nut oils, which are herbicide, pesticide and GMO-free.

Carbon Credits 100% of carbon emissions for the Vans Pro and Vans Triple Crown of Surfing events are measured and offset with certified carbon credits. Carbon emissions include air travel, hotels, food production and generators to power the events. Carbon credits come from a variety of projects, including ones that preserve rainforests, help Brazilian communities switch to biomass to power their homes, restore and protect natural ecosystems and support renewable energy ecosystems.

Trophies The Hawaiian Pro trophies and VTCS Champion trophy are made from broken, used surfboards that are crafted into works of

art by North Shore artist Ruben Aira. “Some see an old busted up surfboard and they only see rubbish but when I look, I see a piece of art waiting for me to uncover it,” said Aira.

Site Sensitivities Events taking place at Sunset Beach have been designed for minimal beach presence, with all essential operations moved to nonsensitive areas to protect the shoreline while still ensuring a competitive future for local surfers.

In 2018, the WSL donated $20,000 and 100+ personal hours of local staff to working with North Shore Community Land Trust (NSCLT), the City & County, and community members to create a dune restoration/sustainability plan for the heavily eroding Sunset Beach.

Over a period of months, WSL helped propagate and sow over 4,000 native coastal plants, install more than 250 feet of wood fencing, post temporary signage for visitor education, and put in an access mat and foot brush to keep sand on the beach.

This year, the WSL is continuing to partner with NSCLT to help maintain last year’s improvements. The plants, trees, fencing and footpaths that you see lining Sunset Beach are a result of the year-round efforts from community members, the NSCLT and the WSL!

Team Rider: Lahiki Minamishin Photo: MIke Cerrone

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The youngest of the Florence brothers, 23-year-old Ivan grew up in the mecca of surf culture with the Banzai Pipeline in his backyard. It’s no wonder that his two favorite hobbies are surfing and skateboarding, sports that have historically influenced each other greatly in terms of maneuvers and evolution. Growing up alongside older siblings Nathan and John (coupled with legendary North Shore neighbors like Greyson and Nathan Fletcher), Ivan’s style developed amongst the best in the biz. He spent most afternoons either in the water or on the pavement of the Banzai Skatepark.

What is the most challenging section of the park?

The extension wall in the bowl.

Both Ivan and his style-savvy mother, Alexandra, are regulars at the local skate bowl, making it look easy. It’s not. But their flow through every section of the park is easy on the eyes. We caught up with Ivan Florence before the start of the Vans Triple Crown to learn more about his favorite waves, who the most competitive of the three Florence bros is (take a wild guess), and if it's ever awkward to have a mom who is such a skater babe.

Stomped any new tricks lately?

Laser flip.

Worst skate injury: Broken wrist; I hit a rock when I was rolling into a snake run and then flew into a wall.

Hometown / Home Spot: Log Cabins, North Shore, O‘ahu

Is it awkward to share the skatepark with your mom, or is that awesome?

Radically awesome!

What takes up most of your time these days?

Skateboarding and surfing. I love them equally, but when the waves are good...

Favorite wave to surf: Pipeline.

Who’s the most competitive of all your brothers?

Me! Just joking… It’s John.

What’s the vibe like at the Banzai Skatepark?

The afternoon is pretty hectic with groms, but every once in a while I get a good session with my friends.

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Jon Pyzel at his factory at the Old Sugar Mill in Waialua, North Shore.

The start of the Vans Triple Crown is a signal that winter has arrived on the North Shore. In the span of those six weeks, there is a confluence of talent and world-class surf unlike anything else in the world. The level of skill, coupled with the challenge of the waves, places an incredible demand on the surfboard shapers designing the equipment for these unparalleled proving grounds.

KEEPING IT SIMPLE

One of the most in-demand shapers when it comes to performance surfboards on the North Shore and around the world is Jon Pyzel.

While his recent ascension to world-wide prominence has been in tandem with his lifelong team rider John John Florence’s meteoric rise, Pyzel has been refining and surfing his own craft, working with his dedicated team on the North Shore for years. We asked Pyzel what it’s like to shape for some of the world's best surfers and the challenging surf of the North Shore.

A conversation with Jon Pyzel, the North Shore’s most in-demand shaper.

BY

A N DREW

Leading into the Vans Triple Crown season and the North Shore winter season in general, what are your production levels like for custom boards?

O L I VER

We usually start seeing a bump in custom orders in September, but what really gets orders coming in is the first real swell of the season.

I think people start looking through their boards and realize what is missing, or they want fresh, new boards for the coming winter.

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Up-and-coming junior surfer and longtime Pyzel teamrider, Wyatt McHale, putting his Pyzel shape to the test at Sunset Beach.

Photo: Keoki

Who are the team riders you are making boards for?

My team is small, but they are pretty gnarly: John John, Nathan, and Ivan Florence; Koa Rothman; Jack Freestone; Alana Blanchard; Zoe McDougall; Wyatt McHale. Then there are guys that I just make some boards for, Tour guys like Willian Cardoso, or travelers like Koa and Alex Smith. I have a few really good amateur kids, too, like: Bronson Meydi, Afonso Antunes, Thatcher Johnson, Taro Watanabe, and Jai Glindman. I don’t like to be spread too thin, so we keep it tight.

Everyone has a different path that they’re on, but everyone wants to be prepared for whatever they need to do. Jack wants to win heats and improve his ratings. Koa and Nathan are both on similar paths, trying to find the biggest, best waves they can and just go crazy, so they want a lot of boards to make sure that they aren’t stuck without the right equipment when that moment presents itself. John John is out of the water for now, but he’s basically a combo of these guys — wanting to win heats but also psyched to surf the biggest waves he can and push it pretty hard.

What is the ordering and design process like with your team?

How does this translate into the type of boards you make them?

I am close with all my team riders, so they mostly just call me or text me what they need or want. Koa Rothman lives right next door so he will stop me on the way down the driveway and order boards, but I always try to get him to text me what he needs so that I don’t forget about them!

Jack is looking for boards for mostly three waves: Hale‘iwa, Sunset, and Pipeline/Backdoor. He’s focused on the Triple Crown and collecting points, plus just pushing his personal boundaries in freesurfs, so his whole quiver is focused there with boards between 6’0’’ and 7’0’’. Koa, John John, and Nathan have the same performance boards, but they also have a bunch of big wave boards between 8’6’’ and 10’6’’.

Around here I’d say my guys are pretty much going to order boards from me anytime we run into each other. Zoe and Wyatt both seem to like to come down to the factory and talk to me, especially if they are looking for a change in boards.

Are they coming to you looking to achieve certain things with their equipment? I’m guessing what Jack is looking to accomplish during his North Shore season is quite different from Nathan or Koa.

Any other interesting anecdotes, about working with your team?

I make sure that the people I work with are all people that I like, so it keeps my job really enjoyable. I guess one funny thing is that sometimes I will give someone a board from another team rider if there is some emergency situation. When Jack Freestone first got

@saltwatersyndicate

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From grovellers, to high performance shortboards, to guns for the biggest waves in the world, Pyzel has to check all the boxes for his small but extremely versatile team. Nathan Florence, with full-confidence in his equipment, slicing through at Sunset. Photo: WSL/Keoki

a few boards off me three or four years ago, he was here but his boards from Australia were stuck in customs. He came by our shop and ended up buying a few boards that I had shaped for someone else, just because they were around what he was looking for. Luckily he liked them and that was the start of our working relationship.

like, or he breaks a magic board and it’s stressful.

With big waves where guys are putting their lives on the line, luckily, I usually don’t see what happens until after it’s over, but some of the Jaws events have been exciting. I just know those guys are as prepared as it gets and the boards that I make them don’t change much, so ideally they shouldn’t have to worry about things going wrong there.

What are some of the challenges of shaping boards for pros you haven't worked with very much?

Has there ever been a moment when you realized you made someone a board that didn’t quite work out, to the point where it affected their performance?

I just tell them that I have boards that people tell me work well here and ask that they trust in me to make them good boards. I avoid the guys who want me to try to make a board from something they already have from another shaper because that’s not what I want to be doing. Not because other shapers aren’t making great boards, but because I want to give them something that I know is proven to work.

For sure. I’ve watched my guys struggle when they shouldn’t have to, but mostly that comes when they have made a bad board choice for the conditions. I remember watching John John lose to Keanu Asing in France in waist-high lefts. He was on the wrong board for those waves, but I knew he had a board I had made him for those same conditions. It was hard to watch that one.

Do you feel any pressure knowing your boards are being put into situations that could have major consequences, whether it is a possible world title, CT qualification, or extreme surf where serious injury or even death is a possibility?

How did you learn and grow from that experience?

I try to make sure my surfers understand the different designs and what conditions they will be best for. I have also worked with surfers that I just could not make a good board for, and in the end, you just have to walk away from those situations so that you both can feel okay.

Absolutely. I have paced through so many heats in my life! Every heat that John John has surfed in his CT career has held a lot of meaning for me, lots of highs and a few big lows. We always hope to have everything worked out with boards ahead of time, but sometimes I’ll see where his boards aren’t working as well as I would 102

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Clean lines are the name of the game. Pyzel in the shaping bay (above) and doing some R&D at Rocky Point (below).

Shaping photo: Andrew Oliver Surfing photo: gOnzo

On the flipside, what does it feel like to see someone accomplish incredible things on your equipment?

It’s a great feeling when someone is surfing to their highest potential on one of my boards. Whether it’s winning a world title, riding a huge wave, or some grom doing his first cutback; it all feels good. I’m so stoked to play a part in people having a good time and loving surfing.

How much does their performance influence your design?

Most shapers aren’t working with surfers of the same caliber as your team riders.

gOnzo

I am lucky to have such amazing surfers to help me learn how to make boards work better in specific waves and conditions. Their feedback drives refinement and sometimes their demands for performance force me into creating entirely new designs as well. About five years ago, Mark Healey told me his ideas for what a modern big wave board should do and I made him a 9’8’’ based off that info. Mark took that

board and pushed it over every ledge he could and proved the design to be solid. He christened it the “Padillac”, and in the years following, John John won the Eddie and Billy Kemper won Jaws (three times) all riding a version of that board.

For those who are competing in Vans Triple Crown events, how specific are they getting with their equipment? Are they ordering boards customized for each venue?

That used to be the way of thinking, but these days I think the boards I build work well at all three spots, with a few small adjustments between them. Different widths and thicknesses are the main changes I make. JJF has won three Vans Triple Crowns while utilizing this plan, so it seems valid.

Are you making many boards for other pros, local or visiting, who aren’t on your team and are competing in the Vans Triple Crown?

I always do some for visitors, but not as much as some other Hawai‘i shapers do. I really want my team guys to be supported by us and if I am making boards for all these other surfers who they are competing against, then I am just working against their success. I have had a few heats where my boards are ridden by both guys and it sucks for me to watch that.

Can you break down what the ideal board is for the Vans Triple Crown?

Basically, you can ride everything from a shortboard to a 6’10’ stepup at every one of these waves, depending on the size of the swell.

Round pins seem to work best for most step-ups, and you will usually want a little wider, thicker board for Sunset. We also usually go up in length in 2” increments so they aren’t overthinking which board to ride. I like to keep everything as clean and simple as possible.

ia Brynne

Photo by As

Nick Gruen, capturing underwater surf photos at Teahupo'o in Tahiti—renowned for some of the heaviest waves in the world.

“The last thing you want to hear is that you’ll never be able to do something you love again. The rehabilitation team at KMC saw my passion, gave me hope and got me back in the water…”

Kahuku Medical Center Rehab Services At Kahuku Medical Center, we are pleased to offer state-of-the-art rehab services, including: • Physical Therapy • Occupational Therapy • Speech Therapy

“When the toll of past surf injuries compounded one day, my back completely gave out and friends had to pull me from the water. The pain was excruciating. Having busted up seven vertebrae, the prognosis from some medical professionals was bleak: you’ll never heal enough and get strong enough to go back in the water like you used to. Yet at Kahuku Medical Center, the rehab services team appreciated how much being able to be in the ocean meant to me. They understand surf culture and come from that world as well. They helped me do the hard work I needed to heal, and with their care, expertise and encouragement, I’m back doing what I love.”

- Nick Gruen of Laie,

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See more on Instagram (@mr_gru).

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kauli vaast

Keoki

J U N I O R

2X WSL European Junior Champion B Y

S H A N N O N

Born in breathtaking Tahiti and flying the French flag of the Polynesian Islands, Kauli Vasst was recently crowned WSL European Junior Champion in the Azores Islands—for the second time.

His phenomenal JQS season had him ahead in the rankings, far surpassing the rest in a commanding lead. Even more impressive was his performance in the big leagues during the Tahiti Pro held at his home break—the notorious and demanding Teahupo‘o. Vaast won the trials amongst the heaviest elite and took full advantage of the welldeserved wildcard spot during the main event, stalling deep inside hollow caverns for a ninth place finish amongst the best in the world.

R E P O R T I N G

I am so stoked! It's awesome to win this title for the second time. It's been a long year of work and training.

Favorite event of the season: My favorite event of all this season was the Trials of the 2019 Tahiti Pro. To win the Trials at home and compete with the best Tahitian surfers— and all of the WSL competitors—was just incredible.

You were on a tear during the Tahiti Pro; what was it like to participate in the big leagues?

Did we mention that Kauli is still just 17, by far the youngest of the Teahupo‘o competitors? This kid is on fire! We caught up with Vaast in the ‘Hawai‘i of Europe’ after claiming the world title on São Miguel, Azores Islands, and he was frothing!

The Tahiti Pro 2019 was amazing because the waves were perfect: west swell and glassy all day long. It was a big swell with strong conditions, everything I like when I surf over there. Surfing at my home break with all the CT guys was just epic! It was the best vibe ever with all my friends, family, and Tahitian people watching the contest from the boats and encouraging me!

Hometown: I live in Vaira‘o, Tahiti. My home break is Teahupo'o [about 10 minutes away]. I have been surfing there since I was 8 years old.

What goes through your mind when pulling into a meaty Teahupo‘o tube?

How does it feel to be the 2x WSL Europe Junior Champion? Congrats, by the way!

I love those kinds of conditions, so I feel very excited and filled with a lot of adrenaline. But at the same time, I get a bit stressed from the 106

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V A A S T

“I’ve been surfing Teahupo‘o since I was 8 years old.” - Kauli Vaast Photo: Domenic Mosqueira

pressure, since the only thing on my mind is to get the biggest wave of my life.

What does your winter quiver look like for the Hawaiian season?

I’m very lucky to have been sponsored by Slater Designs for two years now. My quiver for this winter will include some of these Slater Designs shaped by Tokoro: 6’0 to 6’8 (12 boards in total). This year, because of school, I couldn’t do all the QS events I wanted to earn enough points to enter the Triple Crown, but next year I will work hard for it!

Who’s your pick for this year’s Triple Crown champ and for the WCT world title?

I think Ezekiel Lau could win the Triple Crown this year. He’s my favorite surfer in Hawai‘i and the local knowledge can make all the difference. For the WSL Championship Tour world title, I think Gabriel Medina is on a good path to win this year.

Maururu roa and lots of love!

-Kauli pau

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catching up with leila hurst B Y

S H A NNON

R E P OR T I N G

Vans team sweetheart Leila Hurst has a smile that lights up a room. Photo: Jimmy Wilson

The bright-eyed surfer gal on the Vans team, Leila Hurst requires no introduction. Her glowing smile lights up a room (or the lineup in her case) and her positive attitude is infectious. Growing up on the ‘Garden Isle’ of Kaua‘i, surfing was always a natural fit for Hurst. She began competing when she was young and only recently fell deeper in love with the sport as a freesurfer. The opportunity to find her true calling has deepened her relationship with various shapes: single fins, twinnies, and the abstract. She’s keeping the good vibes alive, and we dig it!

Freesurf Mag caught up with the lovely Leila Hurst as she was heading back to the homeland, and she seemed pretty happy about that.

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U P

W I T H

L E I L A

Jimmy Wilson

C A T C H I N G

H U R S T

Just loving being at home with family and surfing. My dogs take up a lot of time [laughs]. I keep busy!

Current go-to quiver: I love a fishy shortboard, then maybe a twin fin and a longboard for fun. I love surfing different boards. I grew up surfing [performance] contest boards, so I have a blast adding new shapes to my quiver. I actually really struggle on twinnies and single fins; I just laugh the whole time.

Something people don’t know about you: Agh, I love cereal more than anything in the world.

What makes you giggle with laughter?

My dogs!

Who are your mentors or role models?

Gosh, so many incredible up-and-comers. Probably all of them! I love it.

Home break: Pine Trees, Hanalei What was it like growing up on Kaua‘i?

It was the best thing ever! I love Kauai. I left when I was 17 and then lived in California for almost 10 years so I really appreciate it now more than ever. Kaua‘i is the most beautiful place on the planet… I will be in Hawai‘i this winter and I can't wait!

How has the Vans team supported your career?

Incredibly, I can't imagine a more supportive sponsor.

They are family to me, and have supported me in every decision I've ever made. I am so grateful.

What takes up most of your time these days?

pau

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Obviously you need to protect your skin from the hot Hawaiian sun. We’ve all snickered at that guy who, at the end of a long contest day, is the color of a stop sign, skin bubbling up into a blister. But it’s more than your skin that requires protecting. Studies are finding that several chemicals used in typical susnscreen formulas are detrimental to the health of Hawai’i’s corals, killing the reef. Not pono. Tropic Sport is not your typical sunscreen. The mineral-based, oxybenzone- and octinoxate-free formula protects your skin (from the sun) and the reef (from harmful chemicals) making this the clear choice for slathering up with a clear conscience.

This winter, go into the elements boldly, knowing that the Vans all-weather MTE will get you there with ease,regardless of what nature throws your way. A versatile shoe that infuses style and function into cold-weather footwear, the athlete-inspired UltraRange Hi DL MTE features a brand new UltraCush Lite midsole compound offering the ultimate in comfort and cushioning, plus a sock-fit bootie construction with seamless internals to reduce weight, rubbing, and hotspots. It also includes leather, textile, and synthetic uppers with the warmth-retention and moisturewicking properties of our MTE 360 technology, as well as durable co-molded rubber reverse waffle lug outsoles that take advantage of 20 years of snow boot history for maximum traction.

HydroFlask

WSL PURE and Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i’ have been working hard to make the Vans Triple Crown contests eco-friendly events. Don’t be a lolo - do your part! HydroFlask has you covered offering reusable water bottles in all sizes and colors, including an exclusive 32 oz. black or turquoise WSL edition. Fill up at the contests’ water station and your double-walled Hydro will keep your H2O chilled for up to 24 hours!

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red bull queen of the bay opens with ceremony at waimea bay

Red Bull Queen of the Bay competitors (left to right): Sheila Lee, Kiomi Shepard, Makani Adric, Momo Sakuma, Siri Masterson, Kaya Waldman, Polly Ralda, Raquel Heckert, Emi Erickson, Keala Kennelly, Wrenna Delgado. Photos: Rebecca Price Baechle

The female big-wave community gather to ring opening bell for the first ever women’s only big-wave surf contest

INVITED ATHLETES Andrea Moller, Brazil

HONOLULU, HI – (October 1, 2019) – Red Bull Queen of the Bay returns with a waiting period of October 1 through November 21, 2019 as the world’s top big-wave surfers set their sights on the 2019 Women’s Waimea Bay Championship. The event, which honors powerful women who have worked to break down barriers in surfing, was first founded in 2010 by Betty Depolito and partnered with Red Bull in 2017. Postponed in 2017 and 2018 due to a lack of swell in the bay, the ladies joined at Waimea’s Beach Park with optimism for a more favorable outcome in 2019.

Bianca Valenti, United States Blake Lefkoe, United States Brittany Gomulka, Hawai‘i Emi Erickson, Hawai‘i Felicity Palmateer, Australia Izzi Gomez, United States Jamilah Star, Hawai‘i Justine Dupont, France Kaya Waldman, Hawai‘i

“Red Bull Queen of the Bay will help women have a day at Waimea where they can really go for it and test their skills,” says 2018 Big Wave World Champion Keala Kennelly. “There are so many more women surfing now and many young women coming up that want to get to that level. This will be very empowering when it happens.”

The North Shore is the mecca for not only big-wave surfing, but for the entire surf world and Waimea Bay serves as its grandstand. The contest will feature the top, most recognizable names in professional women’s surfing from around the world.

“We are honored to be bringing this big wave event to our community,” said contest director Betty Depolito. “We are remembering women who changed the perspective of what women should be. Through their memory we celebrate the current women big-wave surfers at Red Bull Queen of the Bay.”

Keala Kennelly, Hawai‘i Kelta O’Rourke, Hawai‘i Kiomi Shepard, Japan Laura Enever, Australia Makani Adric, Hawai‘i Michaela Fregonese, Brazil Momo Sakuma, Japan Nicole Pacelli, Brazil Paige Alms, Hawai‘i Polly Ralda, Guatemala Raquel Heckert, Brazil Remi Nealon, United States Sarah Gerhardt, United States Shakira Westdorp, Australia Silvia Nabuco, Brazil Siri Masterson, Hawai‘i

For more content and information on this historic event, please visit redbull.com/queenofthebay.

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vtcs artist jack soren B Y

TAY L OR

It’s no secret there’s something incredibly special about the North Shore of O`ahu: the surf culture, captivating waves, and endemic marine life epitomize a tropical oasis. Having grown up on the Seven Mile Miracle, local Jack Soren has become a talented young artist whose work embodies everything that is the North Shore. Surfing for the better portion of his life has shaped his art and helped develop his style.

“Graffiti has been the best thing for me and my art. I’ve met brothers that will be lifelong friends. I’ve been to places on the island that the average local would never know about. I’ve risked my safety and being arrested... but it was all worth it. It was freedom—freedom to be a kid and run around in the dirt.”

Lately, Soren has creatively expressed his North Shore roots in the form of painting cartoonish surfing figures. His technique and style have been recognized abroad and led to an exciting collaboration with Vans for the Triple Crown of Surfing competition artwork. Soren admits it’s always a journey developing a new style and adopting a new process and this project was no different. “At the beginning, this process was quite messy; it’s always messy when you start,” said Soren, “But it’s in refining the process that beautiful things come into existence. My first painting of these surfing figures was comedic; I painted it and then laughed it off. I was challenged to paint five more of the same style and I did. I refined my style to where it is now and I’m pleased with how far it's come.”

“Naturally [the North Shore’s] influence is ingrained into my subconscious and is relative in all that I do. I think the North Shore is a special place; the whole world pretty much turns its attention to the North Shore during wintertime to watch insane surfing and incredible waves.” Soren’s artwork is inspired by all elements of the island. Fashion, music, travel, and culture stimulate his creativity, but at the time his work is heavily influenced by the history of the Hawaiian Islands, historical icons, and significant events.

“My current body of work is inspired by an era of Hawai‘i that was, from my perspective, a golden era filled with surfing with icons like Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau, the Waikiki Beach Boys, Da Hui on the North Shore, Elvis, pioneers of style, and icons of aloha.”

Soren began painting at a very young age, subconsciously creating a distraction from everyday life: “In high school, I realized that art was a way to navigate difficult times and to preoccupy myself with something; I developed my technique and was pretty good at it.

It’s a way for me to balance all the stresses of life.” Soren’s earliest memories of creating originated in the form of doodling superheroes and making action figures out of tinfoil and cardboard. Since then, Soren has discovered his style through the mediums of painting, graffiti, and street art, which are particularly freeing for him.

P H E L P S

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing official poster features a two-set wave at Sunset Beach exhibiting pink pastels and robust blues. Soren’s goal with this piece was to represent the wave at Sunset the best he could while effectively incorporating its power and beauty. The gradient applied was an additional strategy that Soren utilized, unique to this project.

The use of pastels was heavily influenced by Soren’s wife, Mikalya. Jack explained to Freesurf Magazine that his wife has a colorful personality that constantly encourages him to find his flare, as he wears a lot of dark colors. “Pastel colors are easy on the eyes. They're not big, bold, 118

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nor intense colors. I'm not a big, bold, intense guy so pastels are a mellow version [of the color palate which] suits me more.” Soren poetically explains his use of colors by stating that for him, “Color is a symbol of life. When something dies, it loses its color. I hope to liven up someone’s day with [my art].”

This is Jack Soren’s first time collaborating with Vans, and he couldn’t be happier! “I was pretty excited when I was contacted about [the project], especially for a surf contest that I’ve attended growing up.

We would ride bikes to the contests and check out what [was] going on. The wintertime was always exciting on the North Shore. People from all over come out and watch the waves. It's cool to be a part of something like this, and to see my artwork alongside some of the best surfers and waves in the world.”

Soren is looking forward to seeing his artwork all over the North Shore, proudly representing the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. He also can’t wait to watch his friends compete in the upcoming event. “I'm excited to see some of my friends compete, but I'm also excited to see how much surfing has progressed over the past year.” With three specialty events on the horizon this winter - the Hawaiian Pro, Vans World Cup, and Billabong Pipe Masters testing professional surfers’ abilities at three different powerful breaks - there will be no shortage of action out in the water.

So what does art mean to Jack Soren? “I always thought art was something I did because it was cool, or that I did it because my friends did it. But now, it’s become a part of me. I feel like I’m in a relationship with it as if it’s own separate entity. I get mad at it, I get bummed when I’m not with it, I get excited when I'm around it. It’s a weird way to explain it, but I’ve worked on this relationship with art all of my life and it’s taught me so much about myself. It’s given me so much and I owe a lot to it.”

Soren is a strong believer in perfecting his craft, putting in the hard work, taking chances, and ultimately learning from his art. So what’s next for Jack Soren? He has a handful of upcoming art shows along with a few projects at bay but the rest is a mystery, and he likes it that way!

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community Na Kama Kai Founder, Duane DeSoto, and Sustainable Coastlines Hawai‘i Exec. Director, Rafael Bergstrom, work together to pack a Ka Ipu 'Āina (Container of the Land) provided by Matson Hawai‘i.

Mākua Valley Cleanup BY

M I C H A E L

I T O

Sixteen years ago, a group of Hawaiians, including Adelaide Keanuenueokalaninuiamamao "Frenchy" DeSoto, built an ahu (alter) on the beach of Mākua to put a stop to the military training that was taking place on the beach. The training included amphibious beach landings and bombs that took place deep within the valley. What remains there today is a lot of discharged shells, bullets, and even live ammunition throughout the region. When it rains, all those poisons and depleted uranium flow down the rivers and into our oceans.

When a keiki throws rubbish on the ground, they get scoldings for littering—an instinctive and natural concept that even a 5-year-old can comprehend. Yet, as of today, there are no plans to clean up the waste littering the valley.

Eleven years ago, 2010 longboard world champion Duane DeSoto started a non-profit called Na Kama Kai that teaches keiki about ocean conservation and sustainability. Six years later, his group partnered with Sustainable Coastlines Hawai‘i to help with the cleanup of Mākua Valley.

This year’s 6th annual beach cleanup t-shirt represents "Kū kia'i Mākua" (protectors of Mākua Valley).

Youth ocean conservation group Alaka'i of Na Kama Kai stand in front of discarded tires that are dumped each year across the shores of Mākua's beaches.

pau

This is the 6th year that Na Kama Kai has partnered with Sustainable Coastlines Hawai‘i in order to haul away over 10,000 lbs of debris from Kea'au to Keawa'ula with over 500 volunteers on Saturday and Sunday (9/21-9/22).

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IN D USTRY N O TES WSL x Farrington High School x Hawai‘i Youth Surfing Development Organization Partnership One of the most holistic collaborations in Hawai‘i around surfing took place at one of Oahu's most unlikely locations, far from the birthplace of surfing in Waikiki or the famous stretch of waves on the North Shore. This past May, the campus of Farrington High School in Kalihi came alive with the spirit of success, thanks to a three-year partnership that brought together the World Surf League, Farrington's Engineering Academy and the Hawai‘i Youth Surfing Development Organization for an innovative project that has the potential to trailblaze high school curriculum across the nation.

Students of the Farrington Engineering Academy unveiled a 20-foot mobile fundraising booth for the Hawai‘i Youth Surfing Development Organization, and it now becomes a centerpiece of the nonprofit’s fundraising and program initiatives, including the 2019 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The Vans Pro marks the first event that WSL is utilizing the fundraising booth, which is the result of years of design and innovation, engineering, hands-on hard work and genuine collaboration. Check out the booth during the Vans Pro competition and during the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing!

Shaper’s Market

Scott Kobayashi

Support your local shaper! FCS and Hurley sponsored a shaper’s showcase at the Waialua Sugar Mill September 18th. The event, hosted

by Joel Centieo and Kekoa Bacalso, gave local board shapers like Sparrow and Arakawa, an opportunity to share what they’ve got with the local community, giving us yet another reason why we should skip over those China shapes and buy locally instead.

OTW Hawaii Art Show & Silent Auction Supports SCH

Honolulu craft beer and wine bar Off The Wall hosted an art show and fundraiser featuring the talents of local photogs including Freesurf ohana's Keoki Saguibo and gOnzo. Other artists included John Hook and past Freesurf interviewee Christa Funk. The evening's soundtrack was curated by DJ Melody Jay and proceeds from the event and auction went to ocean-minded nonprofit Sustainable Coastlines Hawai‘i.

Blumer on board with VersaTraction

Add it to the letterhead - Randy Blumer is now a part of the advisory board for VersaTraction, the makers of the no-slip SUP and surf grip.

Blumer's no new-guy to the surf industry; his extensive resume former roles as VP of Billabong Retail Hawai‘i, co-founder of Honolua Surf Company, and he was a partner in the creation of beachwear retailer PacSun. A longtime investor in the company, VersaTraction is thrilled to have Blumer aboard.

Vans hosts Stoke-O-Rama at Makaha

Vans hosted their Stoke-O-Rama surf sesh in Makaha on O`ahu's West side. On October 26th, keiki from the Makaha community surfed the day away with Vans team riders Patrick Gudauskas, Tanner Gudauskas, and Dane Gudauskas.

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IN D USTRY N O TES JJF Sails to Palmyra

After knee surgery left him out of the contest loop temporarily, John John Florence instead embarked on a sailing voyage from Hawai‘i to Palmyra Atoll. There, he met some of the world’s leading climate change scientists to learn more about the Climate Adaptation and Resiliency Lab that the Nature Conservancy has founded there.

Through a series of dives and guided explorations around the atoll, JJF is learning more about why the marine life, coral reef, and general ecosystem of Palmyra, continuing to thrive despite environmental pressures stemming from climate change. From Palmyra, Florence and his crew will continue on to the Line Islands.

International Coastal Cleanup

The annual global event—which got its start way back in 1986–was held on September 21st of this year. Organizations including Kokua Hawai‘i Foundation, Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii, and Kailua Beach Adventures came together to host beach cleanups at various locations island-wide. The main focus of the cleanups here in Hawai‘i was removing the main source of litter, microplastics, from the sand. Shout out to all who attended the cleanups state-wide and internationally!

We appreciate your effort to keep our favorite places healthy, clean, and thriving.

Saving the Planet (and Some Money) One Wetsuit at a Time

For the month of October, wetsuit brand Vissla partnered with the Southern California-based yoga gear supplier SUGA. Together, the companies went green, with Vissla knocking $30 off the purchase of a new full suit in exchange for your old, junker one. Rather than sending them to the landfill, Vissla donated the old wetsuits to SUGA where the company will upcycle the PVC-free neoprene into yoga mats. Ambassadors for SUGA include Rob Machado and Taylor Knox and the mats are available online and in Patagonia stores.

The Wilson Ohana is Growing

Sunbum team rider Julian Wilson announced that he and wife Ashley are expecting!

The couple, who are already parents to grom Via, will be welcoming the addition this spring.

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Rainos Hayes Engaged

Looks like congratulations are in order for Billabong coach Rainos Hayes! He recently popped the question to girlfriend Taylor Bushman, daughter of North Shore shaper Jeff Bushman, and the pair are engaged. The Freesurf Magazine family couldn’t be happier for these two!

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MANULELE AWARDS Celebrating Hawai‘i’s Top Water Men and Women

Let your voice be heard in deciding who will earn top honors at this year's Manulele Awards, a celebration of Hawai’i’s top water men and women. We applaud their accomplishments and reflect on the good energy and positive vibes their performances inspire.

This year's nominees, in the seven prestigious categories, are an incredible collection of Hawai’i’s best performers. There can only be one winner in each category, so be sure to vote and ensure your favorite surfer gets the recognition they deserve.

Presented By

2019 Manulele Awards Nominees Top Female Carissa Moore Coco Ho Moana Jones Malia Manuel

Most Progressive Eli Hanneman Seth Moniz Barron Mamiya Jamie O’Brien

Top Male Seth Moniz John John Florence Nathan Florence Ezekiel Lau

Big Wave Charger Nathan Florence Makua Rothman Billy Kemper Kai Lenny

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Photo by Keoki Mad respect for this crazy close fish-eye pass by angle by the team of surfer Marshall Alberga and water photography specialist Keoki Saguibo. Wide angle photography in big barrels is risky business, to say the least.