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Kelia Moniz Photo: gOnzo

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©2019, VANS INC.

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Eli Olson sounds the arrival of winter at Sunset Beach. Photo: Mike Latronic

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06 Free Parking 12 Editor’s Note 14 Cover Story 16 Surf Art 20 In the Shaping Bay 32 One and the Same 42 Aperture 52 Wahine 56 Beach & Board Buyers Guide 66 Environment 68 Community 70 News & Events 80 Industry Notes 82 Last Look Photo Brian Bielmann

E L I O L S O N | T H E H Y P E R F R E A K ™ H E I S T B O A R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: Q U I N N M AT T H E W S

AVA I L A B L E AT H I -T E C H S H O P S

F R E E Kelia Moniz Photo: gOnzo

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Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Andrew Oliver Associate Editor Shannon Reporting Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Contributing Writers gOnzo, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Brian Bielmann, Ben Marcus, Keoki Saguibo, Taylor Phelps Copy Editor Mara Pyzel West Coast Distribution & Sales Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Richard Galligan (949) 702-3476 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Jake Zielinski Contributing Photographers Brent Bielmann, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Mike Ito, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, Jean Paul Van Swae, John Hook, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Shannon Reporting, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo, John Weaver, Will Weaver Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @ freesurfmag

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

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Evolution of design requires innovation, critical analysis, and the courage to try something new. Masters of the field of board building spend some of the best years of their lives hidden away from the cameras and the spotlight, covered in dust under the fluorescent lights of a shaping bay—it's not exactly the romantic career like that of some of their clientele. All things considered, shapers really don’t ask for much in return other than notes on how to improve. They are often their own harshest critic, sniffing out faults and problem solving; their labors of love require countless hours and an overwhelming amount of tedious patience. It’s rather remarkable how many boards are still hand-made every season.

Shaping is a tradition passed down from generations of wave-lovers. Supporting your local shaper can help your hometown surf community thrive and provides jobs for the handiwork. Let’s get behind these mad scientists! They are selfless, and in my opinion, some of the most passionate and knowledgeable surf junkies in the business.

In this special issue for our winter Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide, we break down new trends in board design. We sit down with shaping icon and founder of ...Lost Surfboards, Matt Biolos, to dive into the recent evolution of performance shortboards. Given notes by top Hawai‘i surfers like Mason Ho and Carissa Moore, Biolos has nailed down the art of high-performing models ridden by the best of the best. We also interview the legendary Kerry Tokoro and local Hawai‘i shapers to get the run-down of the current trends on the racks this winter, innovative techniques, and the story behind how they fell in love with board building.

We salute the movers and shakers of our sport, from the craftsmen and women to the glassers and distributors who pave the way for a new shape under our feet—each person a vital part in the evolution of wave riding.

Aloha, Shannon Reporting Managing Editor

Kelis Kaleopa‘a photo Tommy Pierucki

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“The longboard in this shot is a Thomas Bexton from Noosa, Australia.

I only recently started riding his boards and I absolutely love them.

These boards were made for the transition from small ‘log waves’ to more punchy, powerful Indo and Hawai‘i waves. I actually met Thomas in Noosa this year for the first WSL longboard event. He shapes boards for one of my favorite surfers, Harrison Roach. I admire his surfing so much and got to talking about his equipment; I quickly got some for myself and they are probably boards that I will ride for a very long time.”

- Kelia Moniz, 2x World Champion Longboarder ——— “This is one of three boards that I shaped for Kelia Moniz. This one— from the reports I have—seems to be her favorite of the trio. It’s our ‘Town Bike’ model, but modified with a touch of edge in the tail and the soft roll flattened out to be a panel vee around the last foot or so of the board, just to give a bit more squirt and release of the tail. Kelia said she had always grown up riding performance boards, but loves the feeling of more traditional logs on the nose, so we’re trying to combine both elements into one.”

- Thomas Bexton, Surfboard Shaper

Kelia Moniz

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Hilton Alves

Creator of The World’s Largest Surf Mural

By Taylor Phelps

Hilton Alves, Houston Mural

Meet Hilton Alves, an artist living in Kahuku, O‘ahu who is well-known for his vibrant surf street art murals shrouding buildings all over the island. The spark for Alves to become an artist was ignited as a 20-year-old in his hometown of Guarujá, Brazil. He worked at a local surf shop and—on the slow days—would daydream of swell, sketching waves in his notebook. One day, a customer looked over his shoulder while he doodled and asked if he ever painted the waves on canvas.

Alves had never considered his doodles “paint-worthy” and was hesitant to take the next step. Yet, the next day that same customer brought Alves a brand new art kit, which encouraged him to continue creating using materials and techniques new to him.

When Alves first began his journey as an artist, it took him two months to complete his first piece, as he was trailing his process with oil paints. He calls this piece Bom Dia Guaiuba, after the calm waters of a Guarujá beach where his father used to run a kiosk. It depicts a large wave, somehow fitting the entirety of a small canvas. Upon attending his first art show, Alves brought along his piece.

“On the last day [of the show], I saw Tom Carroll and Ross Clark-Jones signing autographs at the Quiksilver booth,” recalls Alves, “so I asked them to sign their names on it. I still have this special painting hanging on the wall here in my art studio in Kahuku.” Today, Alves's art is comprised of canvas paintings and strikingly dynamic street art murals.

When asked which style he preferred, Alves responded that he felt categorizing his art compromises his creativity. Staying true to his roots as a self-taught artist, Alves continues to keep an open mind when it comes to his creative identity.

Growing up on the island of Santos, Alves was constantly influenced by his surroundings. In his youth he learned a lot about the ocean, marine life, and culture. It was a no-brainer to weave his interests into his creative expression.

Alves is particularly fond of what he calls “a surreal style,” especially when applying it to painting big waves. This was the first approach he used to develop as an artist. As a self-taught painter, Alves believed it was imperative to explore multiple methods and expressions so he could learn to appreciate them all in their own way.

Alves reflects on his experiences with both mediums, commenting that while "painting on canvas, usually I am by myself, quiet, and everything is more technical. Painting big buildings is the opposite. I always have people watching and I can share my passion with a bigger crowd." One of the common themes Alves communicates with his ocean street art is to remind bystanders of nature's beauty and elicit active preservation. He calls his murals "tools for people to study, to get inspired by, to appreciate, and to preserve our planet."

Most recently, Alves created a collection of paintings called “Surf Street Art” reminiscent of graffiti culture perpetuated by his participation in street art festivals, such as the Miami Art Basel and the HUE Mural Festival in Houston. This visual art series is composed of mixed-media: spray paint, stencils, collage, and silk-screen. To top it all off, he will often paint a wave or other marine life over these surfaces.

In August 2013, Alves was working with his good friend Brian Wyland, owner of Wy's Galleries in Haleiwa, and came up with the concept to

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create the world’s largest surf mural right here in Hawai‘i: "I always wanted to paint a big mural featuring a perfect wave like Pipeline.

One time, I was stuck in traffic driving to Honolulu at Waiakamilo Road and suddenly, I looked to the left and saw a huge blank wall. I instantly knew that this was the spot."

It took several months to get everything solidified, from permits to support from sponsors, plus 150 gallons of paint! Despite the challenges, that October, Alves began painting the wall on Waiakamilo Road: "In the beginning, there was only one mural planned, but throughout the week while painting the wave I changed my mind and decided to call it Mural #1 of 101 Perfect Waves." The mural was projected to take two months to paint, however, Alves finished the entire 14,080-square-foot mural in just eight days. "I painted the mural by myself, but without Brian driving the 65' boom lift for me, plus the help of lots of volunteers, family, friends, and sponsors, this mural would have never happened.”

Upon completion, the mural was donated to Hawai‘i to kick off the 101 Perfect Waves - International Mural Project. Since then, Alves has painted 35 wave murals in cities all over the U.S. including: Miami, Orlando, Houston, Los Angeles, and Hawai‘i, as well as multiple countries including: Singapore, Brazil, and Israel. Alves aims to influence others to deepen their connection with the ocean and art, which he hopes will lead to advocating for environmental preservation.

"As a muralist, my goal is to share the inspiration from the sea and waves with people and cities all around the world, and to include the world's largest surf mural as part of my 101 Perfect Waves International Mural Project."

So what's next for Hilton Alves? He revealed to Freesurf Magazine that he plans to paint the largest mural in history in hopes of securing a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records. We wish him luck and are looking forward to enjoying more of his giant creations.

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Kerry Tokoro Story and photos: gOnzo

Describe your introduction to surfboard shaping: “It all began about a year after I started surfing. As a teenager, my passion for surfing was running pretty hard in me, however, surfboards weren’t easy to get ahold of due to my financial situation. As a youth, I really enjoyed constructing things and wanted to understand how things worked mechanically. After some research on board design and the building process, I bought a surfboard kit and that's when everything clicked. After a couple of attempts, the finished product finally began to resemble a surfboard, and my friends gained confidence in my newfound craft and started to ride my boards. My brother Wade and I formed a brand called Fluid Designs. We built boards under that label for a couple of years until I started production with Hawaiian Island Creations.”

Kerry Tokoro's shaping factory sits deep on the East Side of O`ahu.

It requires GPS guidance to get there, and even then it remains rather confusing. Once you arrive, however, his factory is located on a beautiful area of the island, full of nature and absolute silence— an ideal spot for an artist to focus on his craft.

And that's exactly what Kerry is: an artist dedicated to his trade.

He is also a solid mathematician, thoroughly understanding the numbers and dimensions and their correlation with the contours of nature—in this case, with water. His deep relationship with the sea gives him an edge and strengthens his understanding of how surfboards work in conjunction with the ocean's many hydrodynamics. His surfboards are functional works of art.

We caught up with Tokoro in the shaping bay on O‘ahu to talk story, find out more about the current trends in board design, and get a sneak peek into what we can expect from the Tokoro winter quiver this season.

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What’s currently trending in board design?

“The majority of the surfers are still requesting boards that are a little shorter, wider, thicker, flatter rocker, and more volume than in the past. This creates more surface area for paddling power and speed: the shorter length gives the surfer more control and more maneuverability. There're also a lot of guys interested in alternative designs such as twin fins, wings, channels, etc... I've also been seeing an increase in EPS/epoxy boards. The EPS foam is a bit lighter and more buoyant in comparison to the polyurethane blanks. The common winter quiver will consist of 6'0"-7'0" all M7 models, rounded pins, and FCS II.” Share some feedback with us from your stand-out team riders about their new boards: “I am very pleased to work with athletes like Joel Centeio, Josh Moniz, Kainehe Hunt, Luke Tema, and Leila Hurst. There's a good range of models in the HIC lineup that cover all types of waves which my team guys all have on hand. The feedback that I get from my crew is very important because they go around the world surfing many different types of waves and conditions, be it during competition of just freesurfing. The small details that they communicate with me help fine-tune little things. I'm always striving to improve my designs, to evolve, and move forward.” - Kerry Tokoro

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Matt Biolos

By Taylor Phelps

Shaping icon Matt Biolos is the creator, developer, and mastermind behind ...Lost Surfboards. Growing up in Southern California in the ’80s as a snowboarder, skater, and surfer, it was no surprise he was destined to be a shaper. Biolo’s interest in the ocean stemmed from his surroundings, the culture of his hometown, and the jobs he acquired throughout his impressive career. We were lucky enough to catch up with the busy craftsman to talk story for this special edition of the Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide.

between paddling and performing in big powerful surf.” Shapers have to integrate enough foam for the surfer to get around comfortably in the lineup and catch waves, but also be able to perform once standing up. Biolos explains that most Hawai‘i surfers have gone shorter, wider, and thicker to do this—except for Mason Ho; he tends to look the other way.

Working with professional surfers is one of the most rewarding and technical components associated with shaping surfboards. When surfers explain why a board feels a certain way, ultimately they don’t fully understand why it feels ‘sticky’ or ‘slow’; it’s up to the shaper to actively listen, problem solve, and provide them with an improved shape. This collaboration process is crucial when shaping customized boards.

In his high school years, Matt Biolos worked maintenance and cleaned boats at a local ship harbor. It was fairly common that the other watermen that worked at the Dana Point harbor also shaped surfboards. Working alongside these immensely crafty artists exposed Biolos to the world of shaping. Post-graduation, he scored a job working at Herbie Fletcher’s shop and learned to sand surfboards under the one-and-only Mr. Herbie Fletcher. Training under one of the greats was the catalyst for ...Lost Surfboards by Mayhem.

On average, Matt Biolos shapes over 1,000 custom boards per year for his team riders, about 200 of those being for his Hawai‘i team riders.

Biolos admits working alongside surfers like Mason Ho, Coco Ho, and Carissa Moore make the feedback process between surfer and shaper seamless. Typically, Matt’s team riders send him long, detailed emails explaining their likes and dislikes as well as photos and video footage of them surfing their new boards. This allows Matt to analyze their surfing, see how the board performs, and come up with a technical solution. Pro team riders almost always come to California where …

Lost Surfboards is headquartered. And on occasion Biolos will make the trek to Hawai‘i to go through all his Hawaiian team riders’ quivers.

As ...Lost Surfboards became one of the most well-known surf companies in the industry, it begs the question, what is Matt Biolos’ secret to shaping? Each shaper that works with professional surfers add their personal touch to their craft. Biolos uses a handful of techniques, one of them being adding as much rocker, concave, and curve to a board as possible, then “straightening it out,” Matt revealed to Freesurf Mag. His strategy behind this approach was the more rocker and curve you start within the board, the more control and maneuverability the surfer gains.

Constant collaboration with professional surfers not only brings inspiration to the drawing board, but also speeds up the evolution of board models. Working with Mason Ho, the duo collectively came

He also shared with us that one of the most technical aspects when shaping a board for Hawaiian team riders is “finding the balance 24

photo: DoomaPhotos

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up with the board model called, “The Trouble Shooter,” which Ho surfed with during his win at the 2016 HIC Pro at Sunset Beach.

Another board model inspired by a Hawai‘i team rider was “The Rocket.” This board was a collaborative effort by Noah Budroe and Shane Beschen, who brought the concept to Biolos in a beautifully rudimentary form.

Creative influence by team riders is an important aspect to Biolos’ shaping career. One of his biggest inspirations came from Noah Beschen’s father, Shane, who has been incredibly impactful on Matt’s design career, which frequently translates on to Noah’s boards.

Together, Carissa Moore and Matt Biolos work on “precise microchanges [that are] exacting and detail-oriented,” which make the wins intensively gratifying. With impeccably powerful surfing and the right tools to do it, Moore has brought the ...Lost Surfboards family a total of three world titles.

Designing for both Mason and Coco Ho has notably impacted Matt’s creativity as a shaper: “Anything for Mason is fun: he has radical ideas and intentions. This year, his guns, semi-guns, and step-ups feature a lot of early to mid 90’s influence in them—they are longer than everyone else’s featuring minimalist rail volume, lots of rocker and almost needle noses, but with design details based off the last 25 years of progression. Coco has opened up her mind this year and together we’ve built some fresh new designs that I’m translating to other surfer’s boards.”

Biolos also loves building quad fin step-ups and guns for his 60-something-year-old clientele that charge Pipe and Backdoor.

“No rear fin box, quad only! Uncle Mike is a surf God.” From technical micro-changes to wildly progressive designs, detailed feedback is imperative. The communication between shaper and surfer help one another translate their art from the

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shaping room to the water. Together, they can create an effective tool designed to perform in conditions all around the world, Mason’s case, “a world tour of his own.” Biolos respects all feedback from his surfers, but especially gets a kick out of Mason’s grom-like stoke.

“Mason gets pretty vivid in his descriptions, usually describing some funky funboard… like this year when he rode his ‘Maysym’, he was frothing so hard! He appreciates creative, alternative board designs like our ‘Evil Twin’ and the ‘Rad Ripper.’”

It’s no secret that hard-working shapers and surfers go hand-in-hand.

You can’t have one succeed without the other. Both of Matt’s team riders, Kolohe Andino and Carissa Moore, are currently leading the 2019 Championship Tour with a combined score of 75,020 points.

Biolos puts in 110% with his athletes, actively tweaking shapes and working towards building the next game-changing board.

He points out that “with Carissa, [being the top female surfer] it’s almost expected, which is a lot of pressure,” but he’s incredibly happy that she’s back on top where she belongs. For Kolohe, Matt is beyond stoked to see all of his hard work and dedication pay off.

Biolos believes Kolohe belongs in the top 5 surfers and rising to the occasion at #1 is incredible!

We salute you, Matt Biolos, for your dedicated commitment to shaping the future of our sport and beach lifestyle. pau

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Kevin Billy

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World Tour surfer Italo Ferreira has a long history with T. Patterson Surfboards, so Freesurf reached out to the California shaping team to hear about the evolution of their boards and how a progressive aerial surfer like Italo helped them soar to the top of board design. Freesurf talks story with the General Manager of T. Patterson Surfboards, Scott Metzner, for the inside scoop on making equipment for one of the world’s best:

home so we got his boards in the car and drove there to meet him.

He was a happy 14-year-old kid, super cool, very kind, and skinny with big hair looking like a match [laughs]. Pinga introduced us. The next morning, he woke up bright and early and we surfed together before the contest started. That was when we realized his potential.

As Italo grew, we started to size up the boards inch by inch, but every time we made it a lot wider until we reached what we considered at the time to be ‘normal’ width. By 2011, he was riding a 5’9’’ – 18 1/8’’ x 2”. That was when we came up with the perfect dimensions for his surfing.

We started to make Italo Ferreira’s boards because Pinga, his manager, came to us saying he had this very promising kid and he wanted us to make him some surfboards. At the time, we already had some good competitors on the T.P. team, so we decided to put Italo on the grom program.

This was also a crucial year for Italo’s program with us because until 2011, Oakley had been covering the cost of his boards, but the contract changed and we thought it might be hard to keep him on the team. We couldn’t afford to swallow his board costs and thought Pinga might find someone else to give him boards for free. Yet, we had already developed a great relationship with Italo and knew that his potential; we believed in his talent and we knew we had to find a way to keep making boards for him.

We made Italo’s first surfboard in February of 2008. It was made from the Adriano de Souza file, but we had to drastically modify the original design because the dimensions of his boards were totally weird.

The board was not as small as most kids ride today. It was a 5’4” but super narrow, only 15 1/8 inches wide. I thought Pinga had sent us the wrong dimensions so in the next boards we started to make them wider without knowing it, around 16 inches wide. This first round of boards looked pretty strange, but Italo managed them very well.

By 2014, we finally discovered what we could call his ‘magic board’.

That was a real turning point in his career. The dimensions were 5’10” – 18' 1⁄2” x 2’ 1/8” – 23.0” with a couple of changes on the rocker, volume, and outline. We replicated this board many times, and that

We met Italo in-personally for the first time in 2008. He was doing a Junior Pro event in Ubatuba, Brazil, which is a five-hour drive from 28

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was also the year when he started competing in bigger events on the QS. Then he qualified for the CT! We made him between 80-90 boards a year for the World Tour from 5’10’’ to 6’0’’, his standard boards, and from 6’1’’ to 6’4’’, his step-ups.

In regards to feedback, we’re sure he is getting better and better with his equipment. He is not the guy that is super picky on dimensions, but he knows exactly what he wants. Lately, we’ve been working on very different things based on his feedback and it’s been working. He doesn’t talk too much, but in a few words, he says a lot. That’s why we love to spend as much time as possible with him.

What makes Italo special for our team here at T. Patterson is that he is very focused on what he wants to improve his surfing, and he learns everything very quickly. He’s great at listening to the advice and knows how to absorb it to implement. He is also very dedicated to the sport. There is a lot more to come from Italo Ferreira in the next couple of years, so get ready!

- Scott Metzner, General Manager of T. Patterson

Jean Paul Van Swae

pau

Photo Tim Whitfield

Hubboards are available now at The Foam Company, 662 Ride Shop, Town & Country Surf, Hawaiian

Island Creations, Hi-Tech Maui, Deja Vu Surf, Nukumoi Surf Shop, Poipu Surf, and Miller’s Surf & Sport.

ONE AND THE SAME A new generation of surfer-shapers look to progress the craft of board building by doing it old-school.

Words and Images By Andrew Oliver

Kamalei Alexander, Composite Wood Shape

Daniel Jones, Hand Shaped Quad, Rocky Point

There is a small but dedicated movement of young surfer-shapers who are putting in the hard hours of building boards by hand, and riding their own equipment, which is reminiscent of an earlier era when it was common for top-performers to be at the forefront of surfboard design.

The innovations that legends like Mark Richards and Simon Anderson have brought to surfboard design were a direct result of the feedback they received by pushing the boundaries on their own designs. While self-shaped boards haven’t made their way into WSL lockers just yet, the title of “Surfer-Shaper” is becoming increasingly common among the freesurfer set. In the prime of their surfing years, these young shapers are sacrificing serious water time to hone their craft. We spoke with some of Hawai‘i’s most promising surfer-shapers to see what’s driving their shaping obsession.

“We’re talking about three different shapers here: Nat, Kamalei, and Daniel. They're shaping different animals. All the boards look different. They're creating their own music of various genres, and they're all valid. I like that the industry is broadening; it's not so homogenous as it was. It was really, really boring back when everyone had to have the young Kelly Slater glass slipper-looking board. I felt like we were suspended in this void of design boredom and monotony.

“But now it's gone individualistic, like it was in the 70s. People aren't afraid to express what they think is functional and fun. What they're shaping and developing is what they like to ride, and that's good. I like that; I like that individualism.”

- Eric Arakawa, Shaping for 40+ years, Arakawa Surfboards Nat Woolley, Arakawa Surfboard Factory, Waialua, HI

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Kamalei Alexander “Growing up on Kaua‘i, it was just normal and second nature to be in the ocean and go surfing. It's like if you were a kid back in the twenties that grew up in Brooklyn: you're going to play stickball in the street like everyone else growing up. We had a pretty talented group of friends growing up, and the competitive state of mind was always there in whatever we were doing. Andy and Bruce [Irons] were pretty much on another level from the beginning; they were good from the start. It took me a lot more work to get there (well not exactly there) [laughs] but at least where I felt like I was doing it right.

“Suddenly, when I was 13, my mom died in a flash flood and that's when I quit surfing. I started bodyboarding and eventually became a bodyboarder. When I turned 16, I asked Andy for a surfboard, and he gave me one. It wasn't much later that I came to O‘ahu and competed in the Haleiwa International Open. I think it was still called “the Mabo” back then, or something like that. I finished runner-up, second to Andy in that contest, and the waves were bombing. Between it being huge and getting second to Andy, it was pretty much the beginning of the second part of my surfing journey.”

Daniel Jones

Daniel Jones “My mom and my dad surfed, and I have an older brother and sister who surf, so going to the beach was pretty regular for us. I’d surf with my dad. I remember surfing on the same board with him in Waikiki.

And, I think I fell asleep one time paddling over from Queens to Canoes. I just fell asleep on the front of the board [laughs]. I also remember being on a boogie board or sand sliding from as far as my memory goes back.

I was always interested in surfboards and surfboard designs. I made a board; well, my dad made it [laughs], but we made a board together when I was around 10 or 11.

“I would watch Tom Curren on his fish in Searching for Tom Curren, and I wanted that board; no one was really making those at that time.

So, my dad and I made it—and it was sick. I tried to make a couple of shortboards. I could tell that these boards didn’t work as good as my Ben Aipas. And, I wanted to get better at surfing, so I needed to ride better boards. So, I put shaping on the side for a while and just decided I needed to learn about surfboards. I just wanted to educate myself and get better at surfing first.”

“I really had no plans to build boards for anyone else besides myself. I just needed boards, and that's the reason why I stripped my brother's board. I cannibalized his board and got the foam out of that and built the boards myself, which were terrible [laughs]. It starts with passion first. We are surfers first, shapers second.”

- Eric Arakawa

Nat Woolley

Nat Woolley “I think at Haleiwa, what we were really most blessed with was that there were really good surfers, the older generation guys like Brock Little, Kerry Terukina, and Charlie Smith. As kids on the inside, we were just watching those guys rip the place apart. And then on top of that, we always had the Tour that came through, so we were constantly surrounded by really high quality surfers.

“I think Ali‘i Beach in itself was a blessing. Maybe you could grow up somewhere with less crowded waves, but you don't get that influence like you do being at Ali‘i. I think that was probably what gave this drive, that you were going to do it for life, you know, and it was going to be who you are.”

Daniel Jones' first hand-shaped board, converted to outside shower.

Daniel Jones

DESIGN INSPIRATION

Daniel Jones “The exposure Mikala [Jones] brought riding for Rip Curl definitely inspired me; he brought back boards from Derek Hynd. I was a grom riding this 5’6” fish, channel bottom with glass ñ-on fins. And, I was thinking, why does this grown man's board turn better than my little kid board? That was a lightbulb moment.

“I think my boards are a combination of all the favorite boards I've ever had. When I'm making them, I'll remember, ‘I like this from my Tokoro, I like this from my Bonzer, I like this from my Marshall Crumb, and I remember this one Mike Woo felt this way because of this…’

I just put it all into the board, the board I want to ride. I put all my favorite parts together.”

Surfboards by Daniel Jones

“The industry as a whole is more diverse, design wise. Now, guys are more open to trying single fins again, and twin fins are making a big comeback.

They’re all looking at all kinds of other stuff. I think it's good that guys are coming up with these different ideas, because you never know. Look at the boards today; if guys didn't try different things before, we wouldn't be where we're at. There's always a better board. So, we have to try new things—sometimes you’ll succeed, sometimes you’ll fail.”

- Glenn Pang

Glenn Pang “It’s an advantage to all of the surfers-shapers who surf well. They don't only rely on feedback from their team riders or other guys on their boards.

They can have instant feedback when they take their own boards in the water. They'll shape a board, take it out, and know if this board works on a rail, or maybe I need to change this or change that.”

- Glenn Pang, Shaping for 40+ years, T&C Surfboards

Kamalei Alexander “From what I've gathered, the best people at anything take a little bit from everyone else and add it to their style, their flavor. For me, I'm into the old school: single fins, twin fins, and low rocker boards for going fast—flowing good and not having to throw your skegs out at the lip every section. I love doing that, too. I feel like these days, anything goes and it doesn't matter if you look good. Some things pro surfers are doing are amazing, but some of it just doesn't look cool at all. Anyways, I'd rather watch Tom Curren surf any day. So that's that.

“I’ve watched what happens when people ride boards with rails that are less forgiving: it makes them engage into the wave face, and into their board. I guess it would be kind of like a real sharp knife.

You don't just throw the thing around your fingers, you come in and you're precise about it. Instead of having these loosey-goosey kind of no-repercussions rails. It’s hard to find a balance, but who cares? Let’s get back to the style of making boards for just a move, or a wave. I’m not saying that no one's doing that, but it’s polar opposite of these surfboards that can do everything just alright.”

YOUR NORTH SHORE REAL ESTATE RESOURCE Let us share our local knowledge with you! Servicing all of Oahu, specializing in North Shore properties. Stop by our office at the Haleiwa Store Lots for a free market analysis, and meet our North Shore Real Estate Experts:

Karin Moody-Tsutsui

Realtor, Owner, Principle Broker | RB-19578

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Trish Kim

Realtor-Associate | RS-80643

808-221-4200

TrishK@betterhawaii.com TrishKimHawaiiHomes.com

Noel Marchan

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Justin Centeio

Realtor-Associate | RS-82219

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HALEIWA STORE LOTS 66-111 KAMEHAMEHA HWY. UNIT #902 , HALEIWA, HI 96712

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(2017 Menehune Surf Contest Award Board)

Nat Woolley “At the time, nobody wanted to make me the boards I wanted to ride. That's what shoved me into the shaping room: this need to make boards that I wanted. And maybe it was dog-luck, but the first board I made for myself just worked somehow. I still have it. It's twisted and tweaked, but it worked for me. That’s what set me on this idea to make surfboards. When you’re on the pursuit of making something that you’re happy with, it can be quite a challenge. I'm always trying to be just ahead of that curve. I'm just searching for this really good feeling.

And, you don't always get the opportunity to take them out in the right conditions.

“On that point, this board I brought on this last trip I shaped for myself and I made it for Indo; I made it for G-Land basically. I wanted to go there and get it 8-10ft, and ride that board that was made for that wave. It was just insane. And for it to work as good as it did was so exciting.”

Kamalei Alexander, Off the Wall

“I think that's probably the best part of the job: getting to ride your own board. I'm always so excited when I have a new design to try. If it goes well, that's unreal. If not, then you go back and refine it, change things until you get it to where you want it to go.” - Glenn Pang

FUELING THE FIRE

Daniel Jones “I get a lot of satisfaction out of shaping, really similar to what I get from surfing. I'll check the waves, and if it's crowded, I'll go shape. I’ll come out of the shaping room happier than I'd come out of the water

with all those people. It's creative, and hand-shaping is manual, so it makes me tired. I feel like I have accomplished something afterwards, plus it's fun.

“After hand-shaping for a while, I can see why people would use the computer. Hand-shaping is so much work. I have so much respect for all the guys who made a living before the CNC machine was available. I can see why they would hate on guys who didn't learn how to hand-shape. I think eventually, if I wanted to be able to survive off of shaping, I will need to learn how to use the computer programs.

Originally I wanted to get to 1,000 hand-shapes, but then it went down to 500 and that number is dwindling. Because, I find if I’m in here [in the shaping bay], then I'm not surfing [laughs].”

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Kamalei Alexander “Owl Chapman has been super supportive of my little journey. He told me a good one, which I just love; he said, ‘Make your friends good boards and don't overcharge them.’ He’s such a legend and he's got a million other pieces of advice, but I definitely was stoked on that. I've stood by it, too. There have also been a handful of cases in which I take the board back and I make them another one. And, I'm fine with that, because I get to move on and make another one. I have a handful of friends that were, for lack of better words, my ‘guinea pigs.’ Luckily they're forgiving and they let me do that; they've helped play a big part in that role for me to work out my designs.

For those people that have a go, I want them on good boards. It's on me to get the bad product from under their feet and replace it with something that works for them.

Glenn Pang

“Underneath it all, surfing just pumps me up. People that get pumped up on surfing pump me up. People that aren’t apprehensive, but passionate, and not afraid to be wrong. It's all good, you know? That’s kind of it: surfing good waves on some good boards.”

“The thing about Glenn that I really like, besides his big heart, is that his passion for shaping is still fire hot. Whether it's his asymmetrical boards or foil boards for himself. I think he's really done a good job as far as not only shaping, but keeping up with the design curve. I can't thank Glenn enough for everything he's given me.”

- Kamalei Alexander

Nat Woolley “The only way I could describe what happened to me is I got lucky. I came in here at the right time. And I had good mentors, and the guys that were around then shaping for Eric all eventually went their own way. If they were still around, I might still be stuck on the machine. The father of my wife, April, is also a shaper so she knows the income and the lifestyle and what it comes with. I was lucky to be surrounded by people that were encouraging me to keep up with it.

“It's true: you end up riding some pretty bad boards. And you need friends that are willing to ride some bad boards, to give you a shot, and then give you some really honest feedback. Without them telling you what could be better, you might stay in a certain lane. With my group of friends—and having two brothers that still surf as much as they do—they’ll shoot it straight with me about how the boards work, and that kind of input really pushes and drives me to make them better; they see what I’m not seeing.

Nat Woolley and Eric Arakawa

“With Nat, it's been a good process for him because he didn’t start in the shaping room. He actually started in the machine room, he got hired

“It's definitely been a pursuit that was ingrained in me as a kid. I once wrote in a piece of paper, ‘What do I want to be when I grow up?’ And I just wrote, ‘Charlie Smith.’ He was a firefighter, he surfed all the time, and he shaped mental boards. That's what I wanted to do. I even had a crack at the fire department. I got all the way to the interview. I did the physical test, then the written test, and even got to the interview; cool. They said I was pretty much in. And then I said, ‘Well, I'm here to basically tell you guys I'm out. I know it's going to sound crazy, but this isn’t what I want to do. I want to build surfboards; I want to shape; I want to design.”

on to run the CNC machines. He’s seen thousands of boards getting cut and designed. Not just my boards, but other shapers, as we do a contract cutting business too. And, he sees the different contours, he sees a nuances between one shape and another. When you see a lot, you start to develop your eye, but not everyone has that. And, the one thing with Nat I noticed early on is that, he could see it. He had an eye for detail and it's not just having an eye for detail, but you have to be able to see things, before they even exist. You have to conceive of the design aspects. I think those early years of him seeing it just a bunch of different shape from a bunch of different shapers helped. Through all the years, I've trained a bunch of different shapers and some see it and some don't. And, you notice it right off” - Eric Arakawa

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John John Florence Photo: Will Weaver

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Brisa Hennessy

By Shannon Reporting

What are the top female surfers riding these days in competitive arenas? Who better to ask than World Tour shredder Brisa Hennessy. The O‘ahu local was actually born in Matapalo, Costa Rica, but grew up in the islands after moving to Hawai‘i at nine years old. She is now lucky enough to call Fiji her new home. The surfing nomad has worked her booty off more than ever these past few years. After her junior days on the Hawaiian Surf Team, we’ve watched her climb to the top of the WSL rankings, earning a spot on the “Dream Tour.”

For a gal who surfs all sorts of waves throughout the year, Freesurf was curious about her go-to winter quiver.

Surely the boards she’s surfing here at home in the Pacific Islands are slightly larger and thicker than the others… but over the course of our interview, we found out that it is her relationship with her shaper and her support team that is the most vital ingredient for her success.

Brissa Hennessy

Ed Sloane

W A H I N E

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On working with Town & Country: “I have been working with [shaper] Makani McDonald since I was nine years old and we both later joined the T&C family in 2015. I first met Makani out at Bowls; he was—and still is—one of the best surfers out there and he always gives me waves! He has believed in me since the beginning. When T&C and the Sugihara Family brought me on their team, they truly made me feel like a part of the family. They are a company that genuinely shows the aloha spirit and the passion and love they have for surfing. It has been an incredible ride, growing with both of them, and the journey has helped me evolve to be the surfer I am today.”

Her magic quiver: “My winter quiver is an array [of sizes] from 5’7’’ to 6’4’’. My shortboards are 5’8” and under

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model and are for bigger, more powerful waves with thinner, narrower tails and a little more foam under your upper body for paddle power when needed.”

squash tails that are a standard Super Mod and are perfect for the smaller, rippable days. The 5’8” round pins are also Super Mods with some rail tweaks and bottom contour tweaks in the tail area for more powerful waves,

but give me a familiar feel to my regular shortboards. The 5'9" to 6'0" range boards are the B-1 model meant to grab or lock you into the powerful winter waves at higher speeds on rail. The boards above 6'0" are the STP

Her surfing evolution: “Most of these boards and models are evolutions of the winter boards that I have been riding for years in Hawai‘i, with my favorites going back to my first Junior Pro win at Sunset Beach and what I rode as a wildcard at the Honolua Bay CT stop two years ago. With the last CT of the year being on Maui, it is a great feeling to know I have such an amazing crew behind me who have shaped my winter boards since the beginning, who understand my surfing, and— more importantly—have such a great understanding of Hawai‘i's ocean and its power.” - Brisa Hennessy pau

Performance Based Bodywork

www.alohasportstherapyoahu.com

808-782-8394

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BEACH & BOARD BUYER’S GUIDE

805 x Yee Blackwater Board

Johnny Lopes Sunset Hawaiian Blade

Shaper: Joe Yee 5’7’’ Fish

8’4” X 19 1/2” X 3 1/8” Hawaiian artist: Guy Kalulu-Travis Glassing artist: Horacio de Seixas NS glass works.

Available at the Paso Robles Emporium or by special request. $600.00 www.805beer.com

This board blends the classic paddling power of the 70’ with the speed, control and projection of modern times QUAD fins.

Works for almost every type of surfers in many different waves.

Team riders: Michaela Fregonese, Cande and Valentina Resano, Kealii Mamala, Wiggolly Dantas and Rodrigo Monster Resende.

(808) 216-8132 lopesnorthshore@hotmail.com

Hawaiian Island Creations M7 Shaper: Kerry Tokoro 6’4” X 18.88” X 2.4” Volume: 29.2 Liters Get ready for winter! The M7 is perfect for those days when the waves get too big or powerful for your everyday shortboard.

The clean lines, sophisticated bottom contours and rounded pintail design combine to make this board fast and loose, yet solid and stable. The bottom features a fair amount of rocker with a mix of single to double concave flowing to a slight vee off of the tail. This allows the board to fit into steep sections of the wave while feeling loose and maneuverable.

Available at HIC’s Ala Moana, Kailua, Haleiwa, Maui Mall, Lahaina & Hilo stores. www.hicsurf.com

Hi-Tech Kazuma O'ama 6-2 x 19.5 x 2.45 Volume 32L Shaper: Matt Kinoshita The O'ama is a versatile board for the surfer who wants more volume without sacrificing performance. A wave-catcher that is easy to ride with fuller outline to get you through the flat spots. www.surfmaui.com

Mason Ho / Reef / Photo gOnzo

Remi Arauzo / Torq

Kaiser Auberlen / T&C Surf / Photo gOnzo

Josh Moniz / HIC Surf / Photo gOnzo

STORM BLADE 5ft8 M-Retro Fish

T&C Surf Dreamweaver

5’8 x 22 x 2.5 | Vol.@48ltr.

Wider template outlines are featured on this fun foam constructed version of a truly classic retro fish. This board has enough volume for excellent floatation whether for beginning or advanced surf level. Easy lines create a fun affordable board that will drive and carve in any condition.

Complete with two 4.5in Driver fins and two rear 4.5 Ollie fins.

5'9 x 18 1/2 x 2 5/16 Shaper: Glenn Pang Skill Level: Intermediate/ Advanced Tail Options: Squash, Round or Swallow Fin System: Futures or FCSII Setup: Thruster, Quad, and 5 Fin

(714) 389-1818 info@stormbladeboards.com facebook: @stormbladeboards instagram: @stormbladeboards

(808) 621-5000 Fun all around shortboard for chest high to over head waves.

A little less rocker than our Flux model and features deeper concaves between the fins making the rail line to have a little more curve, allowing the board to turn tighter in the pocket. The Dreamweaver performs great in average to good surf conditions.

Its a really fun all around shortboard that you can order in your normal dimensions. www.tcsurf.com

T.Patterson Surfboards Italo Ferreira’s Pool Party

Torq Surfboards Go-Kart

Shaper/Artist: Timmy Patterson 5’8 x 18.69 x 2.25 x 25.84L *Italo dims Medium full rails. Lower rocker.

Like it’s name sake the Go-Kart is super fast, agile and designed for fast acceleration and cornering.

Single to slight double concave that fades into subtle vee off the tail. You ride a couple inches shorter than your standard go to performance board, You also go wider and that will get you more volume fit in since your going shorter. There is more width in the nose and tail area with this outline so you don't want to order to thick.

If you’re looking for a board that surfs like a shortboard but without the limitations of a normal shortboard, this is for you.

$590-$650 (949)366-2022 www.tpattersonsurfboards.com Tpattersonscott@gmail.com

www.torq-surfboards.com

Nathan Fletcher / Vans / Photo gOnzo

Keanu Taylor / Volcom / Photo gOnzo

Noa Mizuno / Vissla / Surf N Sea / Photo gOnzo

Jamie O'Brien / Buell

805 Beer Piedras Blancas Tee 100% Combed & Ring Spun Cotton. A thinner, lightweight “Premium Fit” Tee. Available in sizes Small through 3X-Large. Available online at 805beer.com and all retail locations. $22.00

DMC FINS REPELLOR model

BLDG Active ACTIVE Skin Repair: Healing Spray & Hydrogel ACTIVE Skin Repair kills 99.9% of all bacteria and helps speed the natural healing process all while being non-toxic, antibiotic free and sting free. It works on: reef cuts, wounds, sunburns, rashes, sea lice, insect bites and more.

Hello@bldgactive.com www.instagram.com/bldgactive

Buell 1.5 MM Buell JOB Wetsuit Top Super light and stretchy, the Buell 1.5mm Jamie O'Brien Signature Top is the go-to wetsuit for winter! When the water temps dip and the trade winds are blowing the JOB top will keep you in the line-up for hours! buellsurf.com

Super Soft Yet Powerful & Comfortable Reverse V Rail Technology – when thrusting through water, the fin squids out, giving it more of a surface to cut thru waves, propel thru water and have better control.

Max Speed Less Fatigue Universal Foot Fin Leashes Included Recommended by L.A. County Surf Lifesaving Team dmcfins.com

EcoVessel Boulder Insulated Bottle EcoVessel’s updated flagship Boulder bottle is the last bottle you will ever buy! The Boulder features TriMax® Triple Insulation, a tea, fruit, and ice strainer, silicone bumper, dual opening lid, 100 year warranty, and more.

Independently tested to keep drinks cold for 40 hours. EcoVessel is a proud member of 1% for the Planet and 5% of all sales on their website are donated to environmental nonprofits. $31.95 ecovessel.com

Icons of Aloha Mahalo 16oz. Enamel Camp Cup Weather you are camping on the Na Pali Coast, planning a boat trip to Indo, fishing, or enjoying a cup of coffee from home, our 16oz. hand dipped, double coated Enamel Camp Cups are the best accessory.

Campfire, stovetop, and oven safe. Durable enough to withstand being dropped on lava rocks, yet intended to inspire you to manifest an epic day.

Designed in Hawaii iconsofaloha.com

Zoe McDougall / Smith / Photo gOnzo

Eli Olson / O’Neill / Photo Keoki

Kapono Nahina / Sun Bum / Photo gOnzo

Matt Meola / Salty Crew

O’Neill Hyperfreak Hydro Copy: The Hyperfreak Hydro is O’Neill’s premium performance boardshort. It features the exclusive “No Tie Fly” closure system for maximum comfort and security. Multi-stretch fabrication, fully welded construction with no inseam and laser cut hemming make up the modern, rash-free design. $99.50

Kona Brewing Co. Growler

O’Neill Del Ray Windbreaker Jacket

This is sure to be your favorite new Growler, and the best way to keep your beer icy cold and carbonated all day long.The Fresh Carry System provides a leak-proof seal with improved temperature control and easy portability. We embellished the growler with our logo and the Island Chain for some extra aloha.

Copy: Combat wind and rain on the fly in the Del Ray Windbreaker. It offers a lightweight, packable design and features O’Neill Hyperdry water resistance allowing for a drier and more comfortable fit. $55 us.oneill.com Instagram: @oneillusa Facebook: www.facebook.com/ONeill

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REEF Cushion Bounce Phantom Rainbow Sandals The Pau Hana - Premier Leather Original Rainbow® - Exclusive to Hawaii only - Available at fine stores like Splash! Hawaii, Kailua // Poipu Ocean Hui, Koloa // Hawaii Surf N' Sail, Haleiwa // Backdoor - Hanalei, Flip Flop Shops, Honolulu, and more. rainbowsandals.com

Salty Crew Rocks N’ Docks Hip Pack Introducing, the Salty Crew Rocks N’ Docks Hip Pack. The main zip pocket holds tackle boxes and has interior pockets. Featuring an adjustable and expandable belt, neck and waist strap with nylon/spandex water bottle pockets with cording and plier pockets. $80 www.salty-crew.com

Slip on the Cushion Bounce, and feel ultimate comfort in every step. This sandal features Reef Signature Cushion Bounce footbed, modern contouring with anatomical arch support and heel cupping for support, outboard lasted construction for increased comfort, a high density rubber outsole, and high energy rebound for more cushioning in every step. $42.00 reef.com

SKIN SLICK All-Sport Spray Skin Lube

Scarfini Air Fins

Prevents skin chafing, friction and blistering. Do not let a skin irritation ruin your perfect surf or day at the beach. Simply spray directly on prone-to-problem areas (neck, underarm, back, chest, inner thigh, nether regions, and bikini lines), SKIN SLICK will put a barrier between you and what’s rubbin’ you raw, plus will protect you throughout the day since it is water resistant & sweat proof. Safe on all fabric, including neoprene, SKIN SLICK will even help you get into and out of your wetsuit! www.sbrsportsinc.com

Base: 107mm / 4.2" Height: 112mm / 4.41" Area: 9172mm / 14.22 A well balanced template with a medium base and medium tip.

Ideal for any type of surfboard in all wave conditions.

Smith Lowdown Steel

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The iconic Lowdown from Smith now comes with a metal edge. The Lowdown 2 Steel reimagines the familiar silhouette with lightweight, stainless steel temples. A modern look with all the features you need.

Introducing the Lowdown Steel The iconic Lowdown from Smith now comes with a metal edge. The Lowdown 2 Steel reimagines the familiar silhouette with lightweight, stainless steel temples. A modern look with all the features you need.

$199.00

Price: $199.00

Tapa Reef Hair care The only hair products specifically formulated for women who spend a lot of time in the surf. Our unique Pre-Swim Hair Mask is a water-resistant treatment that coats and protects your hair from sun, salt water and chlorine damage- it’s reef safe and cruelty free. www.tapareef.com

Tapa Reef Sunscreen remover Surf N Sea Vissla + Surf N Sea Collab Tee The latest limited edition collaboration from Vissla and Surf N Sea. The Vissla Surf N Sea Septagon Haleiwa Rainbow Bridge Tee. Available Colors: Black & Blue Sizes: Small - XLarge 29.95 surfnsea.com

TapaReef facial towelettes are the original Sunscreen Remover and the first to be designed specifically by surfers for surfers to quickly and gently remove zinc and water resistant sunscreens using natural ingredients and biodegradable fibers. www.tapareef.com

Sun Bum Mineral Continuous Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 Some of us like to go as au naturel as possible, so we’re really proud to introduce our new zinc-based Mineral collection for your lounging and earth loving pleasure.

An easy to apply, Mineral Continuous Suncreen Spray that provides Broad Spectrum SPF 30 protection made of safe minerals to protect skin from UVA/UVB rays. sunbum.com

Vektor Systems VT-Versatile Template This unique template has the proper balance of fin depth, base length, and trailing edge to enhance drive, speed, and control to your single, twin-fin, thruster, quad, or five fin set up as a stabilizer, trailers, or side bites. Available at Town & Country, Hawaiian South Shore, Clips Hawaii, and Surf and Sea. Facebook / Insta @vektorsystems info@vektorsystems.com www.vektorsystems.com

Vans Surf Boot Hi

VersaTraction VGT Bolt Tail Pad

Vans is proud to release its latest take on a surf essential.

The Surf Boot Hi incorporates everything the brand knows about skateboarding into a surf boot, with a focus on board-feel and grip and an unwavering commitment to progression and creative originality.

VersaTraction’s 3 piece tail pad is your combination of the newest traction technology combined with the classic EVA pad. The diamond groove VersaTraction technology gives you the best grip in any line up.

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Volcom Save Our Oceans Trunk The Hawaii focused Save Our Oceans product strives to bring awareness to the current state of the oceans featuring imagery of iconic Hawaiian locales. Volcom and the Pangeaseed foundation Artivist Botkin and Shantz created this color collection, Save Our Oceans! $60 volcom.com

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Single-Use Straws Suck

By Mara Pyzel

You’re post-surf starved and in serious need of some hydration, too. Stopping at your favorite plate lunch place or poke counter, you quench your thirst while you wait for your food. Pause. Do you have a plastic straw in that cup? (If you answered ‘yes,’ please keep reading.)

From boba drinks to sodas, coffee frappes to cocktails, Americans use an estimated 170 million single-use plastic straws each day (LA Times). Like plastic utensils and other plastic items smaller than 2x2 inches (Washington Post), single-use plastic straws cannot be recycled, and instead wind up contributing to our waste stream. Even when thrown away responsibly, we consumers tend to forget that really… there is no ‘away’. Single-use plastic straws take significant amounts of energy and fossil fuels to be made, yet are only used for a short amount of time before getting pitched, spending hundreds of years breaking down into smaller and smaller pieces of microplastics, never fully decomposing.

Worse yet, 8.8 million tons of plastic trash flows into our oceans annually (National Geographic, 2018). Due to current patterns, the stretch of the Pacific between Hawai`i and California is home to a gyre dubbed “The Great Pacific Garbage Patch” where increasingly more rubbish has been found swirling its way through these waters. Over time, discarded plastics are broken down into tiny microplastics, small enough to be consumed by fish, who mistake them for their next tasty meal. Unable to digest the microplastics, the plastic remains in the fish’s system, damaging organs, leaching hazardous chemicals, and compromising growth, reproduction, and immune function (Scientific American).

These fish are consumed by bigger fish, and eventually, by us. So yeah - we are consuming small amounts of that single-use plastic straw we used that one time for that one drink when we could have brought our own reusable straw or straight-up refused the single-use.

Not willing to have more plastic than fish in the ocean by 2050, the way current trend project? Here’s what you can do: Follow the lead of rocker Mick Jagger, actor Leo Dicaprio, NFLers Russell Wilson and Tom Brady, and others to #stopsucking (a Lonely Whale campaign).

Surfers including John John Florence, Koa Smith, Eli Olsen, Cliff Kapono, Jack Johnson, water-people Mark Cunningham and Kimi Werner, and shaper Jon Pyzel, have chosen to bring their own reusable straws or go entirely straw-free. Now it’s your turn: opt for no straw or BYOStraw. With reusable straw options ranging from bamboo to stainless steel, straight or with an angled top half, foldable, boba-able, and even Slurpee styles, you are out of single-use plastic excuses. Bringing your own straw is easy - not only are they are lightweight and packable, they are a great first step towards a #zerowaste lifestyle. So after your next surf session, head to the ono grinds place with your own straw in hand. It’s the easiest way to preserve the ocean and marine life.

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He‘e Nalu No Ka Mauna

Craig Davidson

“He‘e Nalu No Ka Mauna was a beautiful education, celebration, and reminder of our kuleana of Kapu Aloha and Kia‘i'. I loved all of the manao at University of Pu‘uhuluhulu o Mākaha. Mahalo @haakeaulana @briankeaulana @makanaaaa_ @hemalani1 @iwinchester @ thesurfprofessor @iolaniadams @honihala @nakamakai @kanaka_solutions @dahuiofficial @protectorsofparadise @tiare4maui all of those behind the scenes and the Keaulana Ohana for hosting everyone. Please continue to live with Kapu Aloha and follow @puuhuluhulu @ protectmaunakea to learn how you can donate and support the movement. Mālama Pono.” - Jason Shibata (@alottashibata)

photo Doug Fernandez @nalu528

John Van Hohenstein @johnny_the_ripper 2018 & 2019 USA Longboard Champion Congratulations John! Thank you for representing RJ Surfboards

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the last few months. I’ve tried to win this event a lot of times and it is amazing to finally get that today.”

Australia's Owen Wright clinches victory at the Tahiti Pro Teahupo'o pres. by Hurley for the first time in his career.

Credit: © WSL / Dunbar

Medina was not able to defend his title in Tahiti but still has the opportunity to defend his win at the Freshwater Pro pres. by Outerknown, the next stop on the WSL Championship Tour. The second-place finish vaults him up to fourth on the Jeep Leaderboard and another step closer to a third World Title.

“Owen (Wright) really deserved that one,” said Medina. “He started the day off with a 10-point ride and when someone starts like that, I think you feel like it is going to go your way. I am happy for him and stoked to be in the Final against him again. Last year it was me and today he got me. I love to compete against him, he is one of the best so it was good to get second to Owen.”

Owen Wright Wins the Tahiti Pro Teahupo’o presented by Hurley

2019 CT Rookie Seth Moniz (HAW) capturing his career-best performance at Teahupo'o. Credit: © WSL / Cestari

TEAHUPO’O, Tahiti (Wednesday, August 28, 2019) - Today, Owen Wright (AUS) won the Tahiti Pro Teahupo’o presented by Hurley Stop No. 7 of 11 on the World Surf League (WSL) Men’s Championship Tour (CT), in six-to-eight foot (2 - 2.5 metre) waves at the world-famous Teahupo’o reef pass. The rematch of the 2018 Tahiti Pro Final with Gabriel Medina (BRA) was one for the books with some of the best conditions since 2014.

Owen Wright (AUS) claimed his first event win in Tahiti after defeating Gabriel Medina (BRA), the two-time WSL Champion and defending Tahiti Pro winner. This is Wright’s first CT victory since the 2017 Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast when the Australian inspired the world with his incredible comeback from a traumatic brain injury he suffered at Pipeline in 2015.

“I have to enjoy the momentum,” continued Medina. “It is hard to get the rhythm but now I feel like I am there. The win in J-Bay felt good and I think that will help me at the end of the year. Now I am just thinking about the wave pool. I cannot wait. I just want to thank God for the opportunity to have another Final with my great friend. This contest was unbelievable.”

“I can’t be happier,” said Wright. “Gabby (Medina) was always going to be the toughest matchup and I had no priority and I snuck into those few on the inside. I tried to get as deep as possible and still make it. I teared up out there when the hooter went. I’ve been working hard and I am stoked to win.”

Rookie Seth Moniz (HAW) captured his career-best performance today after making the Semifinals. Although the 22-year-old fell to runnerup Medina, he showcased his talents in heavy-water conditions in his freshman year on the elite CT. Moniz eliminated injury replacement Caio Ibelli (BRA), who sat right on the requalification cut-line before this event. Ibelli now moves up to 18th on the Jeep Leaderboard and betters his chances of qualifying for the 2020 CT next season after falling short last year.

In a rematch of last year's Tahiti Pro Final, goofyfoots Wright and Medina battled once again at Teahupo'o but this time in heavy barrels. After a slow start, the heat turned into a barrel shoot-out at the twentyminute mark and saw both surfers go wave for wave. Medina broke away with a 7.83 (out of a possible 10) and backed it up with a second 7-point ride, but Wright fought back with his own 7.73, only needing a 7.21 to win with eight minutes left. Under priority, Wright scored a nearperfect 9.17 to steal the title from Medina.

Jordy Smith (ZAF) lost to Wright in the Semifinals.

Earlier today Smith dispatched 2015 WSL Champion Adriano de Souza (BRA) to claim a third-place result, which moves him up to World No. 2 on the Jeep Leaderboard. The earlier eliminations of Top 5 competitors Kolohe Andino (USA), Filipe Toledo (BRA), Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) and Italo Ferreira (BRA) opened the door for Smith to strengthen his World Title campaign.

“I said I really wanted Gabby in the Final just to have that rematch and it was such a special time last year,” continued Wright. “The waves were just so perfect and to share that with a great mate was really special. When you come out here and in your first heat you get a 10, it makes things feel like things are coming. I haven’t won since Snapper and it has been so long. I won so early back then in my recovery and it has been so up-and-down and it has finally felt up and up and up in 70

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“All these [Maui] guys are so good,” Stewart said. “I surf with them when they come to O‘ahu and I surf with them when I come here.

We’re all good friends. It’s always fun surfing with them.”

Akaka won the USA Surfing longboard U18 title in June at Oceanside, California, but the 17-year-old was competing in the Ole for the first time. Akaka’s win marks the fourth straight year an O‘ahu surfer has captured the Open Women’s.

“I’m glad to represent O‘ahu and keep that going,” Akaka said. “I practice and train a lot, mostly surfing Diamond Head, Sandbar, Bowls, and Kewalos—my main four spots.

“Today was awesome! It was so much fun,” Akaka said. “The waves were small but good conditions, and clean. I loved it!”

2019 Maui Ole Longboard Classic Story and photos: Dayanidhi Das Two Honolulu teenagers captured the open divisions once again in the 26th Annual Ole Longboard Classic at Launiupoko Park on the West Side of Maui. The one-day contest had 69 heats with 235 entries in 14 divisions. Sponsors included: Quiksilver, Da Kitchen, and Hi-Tech Surf Sports.

Kaniela Stewart had a repeat of last year maintaining his title as the Open Men’s champion, while Mahina Akaka captured both the Open Women’s and Junior Women’s titles. Last year’s Open Women’s champion, Kelis Kaleopa`a, was a late scratch.

Stewart has been riding a swell of longboard victories since his win last year at the Ole. The 18-year-old has won prestigious contests in Australia, Mexico, Portugal, and O‘ahu. He is also on a chase for a World Title on the WSL Longboard Tour after winning the Long Beach, New York City stop.

Stewart’s win in Maui was particularly noteworthy, as the division was packed with talent; the Open Men’s was the biggest division with 36 competitors.

“I love it here,” Stewart said. “There are always waves; it doesn’t matter how big or small, everybody is always having fun.”

On Stewart’s second wave of the final, he set his rail and hung ten toes over the nose of his board across the outside section. After cutting back, he ran to the front of his board, turned and hung his heels over the nose before finishing with another nose ride. All three judges gave him a 9.0, the highest score of the entire event.

“I was watching the whole contest, and a lot of people were hanging ten, some people were trying to hang heels,” Stewart said. “I decided on one of my good waves, I would go for it. It was kind of towards the end [of my ride] and I just decided to go for the heels.”

Alika Apo of Kula, Maui, the 30-39 age group winner, placed second, and seven-time Open champion Kekaula Campbell of Wailuku was third. Campbell won the 40-49 age division.

In a nail-biting final, Akaka was actually trailing 12-year-old Chrislyn Simpson-Kane of Paia, Maui, with less than a minute left. But it was her last wave and Akaka’s smooth cross-stepping style that proved to be just enough to move ahead of Simpson-Kane.

“I knew I needed another score,” Akaka said. “I knew that time was definitely ticking. It was a buzzer-beater, so I paddled for my life. It was definitely a hard competition. Everyone here is very talented at longboarding.”

Augie Constantino of Lahaina was a double winner, claiming both the 50-59 division for the second straight year and pairing with Zoe Silva to win the tandem.

Michael Van Hohenstein of Honolulu kept his good friend, Kaniela Stewart, from being a double champion, edging him 14.37-to-14.14 in the Junior Men’s final.

Zolten Poulsen of Lahaina won the Menehune, the second-largest division with 30 competitors! Other champions included Makoa Akana of Lahaina (Juniors), Zack Myers of Honolulu (19-29), Mickey Ester of Huntington Beach, California (60 & over), Jessica Damasco of Wailuku (Aunties) and Kawika Kinimaka of Lahaina (Ole Board).

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Red Bull Party Wave Words and photos: gOnzo

North Shore SAILING ADVENTURES

Sailing, Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunset Cruises & Private Charters

The Red Bull Party Wave 2019 competition was in full force today in Waikiki for the closing day of Duke’s Oceanfest, Jamie O’Brien, Poopies, and their crew of stoked wave warriors went partying at the #RedBullPartyWave. As per usual, they stole the show!

Their team went out on a very big, custom-made wooden boat and while paddling out to the lineup, they were chanting, ‘Team Area 51 is going down!’ They caught the first big wave of the day, and while they were doing fine at first, the wave had other intentions; they capsized in a super dramatic and funny turn of events. Freesurf Magazine was there to witness and document the madness.

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Cordon Stapp

Science Bodyboards presents the 2019 Sandy Beach Challenge

Jeff Hubbard

Photos gOnzo Saturday, August 24th - It was another great year at the Hawai‘i Bodyboarding Pro Tour’s 2019 Science Bodyboards Sandy Beach Challenge. Anticipation was at an ultimate high as beachgoers gathered to watch some of the most talented pro bodyboarders including Jeff Hubbard, Dave Hubbard, Ayaka Suzuki, Mack Crilley, Jacob Romero from Big Island, grom phenom Mana Fujihara, and Sandy Beach’s homegrown favorite - Kawika Kamai.

Kicking off the finals was the women’s division as Jessica Becker, Ayaka Suzuki, Kawehi LouisDiamond, and Ginger Prados battled for the title. Jessica Baker secured first place early in the heat with her highest scoring waves of 6.67 and 7.27. However, it was World Champion Ayaka Suzuki who stole the show at the last minute, taking home the title with a perfect 8.0 adding to her highest score for a total of 14 points.

The master’s division, comprised of Cary Kayama, Blaine Jacintho, Harry Kapu, Jr. and Jason Verano, was a real crowd-pleaser. Bringing home the win was Harry Kapu, Jr. with a 12.34 followed by Jason Verano with a total score of 11.0. Blaine Jacintho and Cary Kayama were not far behind, vying for third and fourth places with total scores of 7.0 and 6.5.

The stand-up division had the crowd on their feet as local favorites Kawika Kamai, Ezra Hill, Dave Hubbard, and Maui legend Mack Crilley showcased their skills. With the competition heating up between Mack Crilley and Kawika Kamai, it was ultimately Mack’s huge backside action that thrilled the judges. With a high score of 16.5, Mack Crilley combo-ed his competitors for the win!

There’s also much to say about the DK division as Kawika Kamai, David Hubbard, Dayton Wago, and Daylan Saniatan who contended for the PRO DK title. Dayton Wago took the lead with a 6.33 early in the heat but it was Kawika Kamai’s backslashes, 360s, and style that scored him a high 7 on his third wave followed by a 7.53 to put him on top. Dave Hubbard answered back with skill and technique that landed him an 8.5 from the judges but it fell just short of Kawika Kamai’s total score of 14.53. Carried up the beach, Kawika Kamai proudly took the title of the Pro DK division.

Up next was the pro junior division in which last year’s winner, Matthew O'Rourke from Kaua`i, would defend his title against Kaikea Simpson, Noa Aquino, and Mana Fujihara. The first wave was a drainer and Mana Fujihara scooped an in-and-out, landing him a 7.17 from the judges to start the heat, followed by a 4.17 for Matthew O'Rourke and a 5.5 for Kaikea Simpson. Matthew O'Rourke caught his tenth and final wave, displaying his combo technique with 360s and rollos

Kawika Rohr-Kamai

to shore, landing him a 6.5 from the judges.

However, it was Mana Fujihara’s airs and rollo ride-out that added a 6.33 to his high score, totaling 13.5. With skill, style, and humility from the Big Island, Mana Fujihara took the title of Pro Junior Champion.

As we wrap up the Hawai‘i Bodyboarding Pro Tour, the 2019 Science Bodyboards Sandy Beach Challenge’s much-anticipated men’s division went underway. Comprised of the most talented Hawai‘i and international bodyboarders, Keahi Parker, Dave Hubbard, Jeff Hubbard, and Mack Crilley set their eyes on the prize. With an explosive lineup, the men’s division didn’t disappoint as Jeff Hubbard displayed his artistry in the water, quickly gaining first place, followed by the talented Dave Hubbard. Mack Crilley demonstrated his skills with rollos and 360s, followed by Keahi Parker and his clean airs and combos. But it wasn’t enough to take out the Hubbard brothers. With a total score of 15.6, Jeff Hubbard claimed the Men’s Pro title followed by Dave Hubbard with a total score of 13.0. Mack Crilley took third place with an 11.83 and fourth place went to Keahi Parker with a 10.7.

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LONG BEACH, New York/USA (Tuesday, September 10, 2019) – The World Surf League (WSL) Men and Women’s Longboard Classic New York supported by I LOVE NY crowned Kaniela Stewart (HAW) and Honolua Blomfield (HAW) its respective inaugural victors on the shores of Long Beach.

The Hawaiian duo put on an immaculate display throughout a hefty finals day draw that required both Stewart and Blomfield to leave everything in the water each heat.

Respective runner-ups Jefson Silva (BRA) and Chloe Calmon (BRA) fell just short of their own Brasilian sweep but did their part of powering through a massive day of competition.

win inches her closer to Calmon, closing the gap to just 1,500 points, before the finale in Taiwan December 1 - 7.

This marks Silva’s best result within the last eight years, never overcoming a Quarterfinal bout and now just gained 4,500 points toward the rankings to help secure a place among the Top 8 heading into next season. Silva squared off with Stewart’s fellow Hawaii native Kai Sallas before facing the East Coast’s own Tony Silvagni (USA) in the Semifinals. The seasoned veteran now preps to make complete a career-best year, now sitting at No. 4 on the ranks with competitor’s best two results of the three events counting toward their total before earning their final tally in Taiwan.

After an extraordinary week of performances from Stewart, the 18-year-old completed an imminent run to the podium in stunning fashion and capped it off with his first-ever WSL victory. Stewart’s 7.57 (out of a possible 10) at the 13-minute mark gave him plenty of steam to extend his lead over Silva and immediately followed it up with a 6.77 to all but secure it. Everything fell into place for one of the youngest competitors on the LT and when the final horn sounded his fellow Hawaii natives rushed to the water line to welcome him in.

Stewart's near-perfect 9.07 against Cole Robbins (USA) in the Quarterfinals notched the day's top single-wave score and heat total of 16.90 (out of a possible 20). This win moves Stewart into No. 2 on the LT ranks heading into Taiwan and now offers the opportunity for his maiden World Title race among the world's best to cap off an incredible year.

Before Stewart took his first-career win, a third-consecutive Final between Blomfield and current No. 1 Calmon and they delivered another brilliant showdown. An early exchange put Calmon out in front with a 6.67 (out of a possible 10) but the 2017 WSL World Champion from Hawaii earned a 6.00 of her own to keep the pressure before a quick 3.67 put her out in front moments later. However, Calmon answered right back to regain the lead but not before Blomfield fired her response with the heat’s best wave of a 6.73 and held that lead until the horn sounded to claim her first win of 2019, and first victory since 2017.

For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Longboard Classic New York Men’s Final Results: 1 – Kaniela Stewart (HAW) 14.34 6,000 points 2 - Jefson Silva (BRA) 10.33 4,500 points Longboard Classic New York Women’s Final Results: 1 – Honolua Blomfield (HAW) 12.73 6,000 points 2 – Chloe Calmon (BRA) 12.54 4,500 points

Blomfield's finals day draw was no easy task having to take down 2015 WSL World Champion Rachael Tilly (USA) for a third time in the Semifinals this season to ensure another Final appearance. The 78

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I N DUSTRY NOTE S Surfing dogs took over the lineup in Waikiki for quite a spectacle! Queen's Beach was packed with spectators on August 20th for a favorite event at Duke’s Oceanfest: the "Dogs SurFur Competition" featuring man's best friend catching some fun rides, and the occasional wipeout!

Rrrrrruff!

Big congrats to Carissa Moore on her copper medal finish in Miyazaki, Japan, in the ISA World Surfing Games presented by Vans! The women’s top finishers included: Sofia Mulanovich (Peru) with gold, Silvana Lima (Brazil) with silver, and Bianca Buitendag (South Africa) with bronze.

Honolua Blomfield is closer than ever to a world title after her competitive rampage on the WSL Longboard Tour, winning victory in Long Beach, New York, and a runner-up finish in Galicia, Spain. The O’Neill longboarder was chaired up the beach in NYC by fellow Hawaiian competitors Kelia Moniz and Kelia Kaleopa‘a as the rainbow state represented in the Big Apple.

The Duke’s Oceanfest also provided Waikiki onlookers a week-long water refilling station provided by Jack Johnson's non-profit organization, Kokua Hawai‘i Foundation. Water refills were provided for anyone who had their own bottle to fill during the 10-day long outdoor event, reducing the amount of single-use plastics entering our wastestream (and, frequently, our oceans).

Volcom has signed Florida’s Nate Behl to their growing surf team. @natemcnasty has been packing some mean barrels as of late thanks to Hurricane Dorian. Watch out for him this winter with the Volcom stone logo along for the ride on the nose of his board.

The NEW MAUI TROPIX SHOP IS OPEN! 261 Dairy Rd., Kahului 9am-6pm every day. www.mauibuilthawaii.com

Restaurant 604, Chinen Marketing Group, The Armed Services YMCA and Marine Recon Foundation have teamed up to present the 3rd Annual Eha Koa (Wounded Warrior) Golf Tournament which will take place this coming November 8th at the Hawaii Prince Golf Course.

The event will serve to raise funds and awareness benefiting our warriors and their families for their service and dedication to our country. Previous events had raised upwards of $20,000.

Noteworthy in the surfing community was Big Wave World Champion Makua Rothman volunteered his time and plans to be there again this year!

The Eha Koa is a great opportunity for businesses and individuals to contribute and support a worthy cause. Freesurf is trying to help raise awareness and participation and has made a $500 contribution pledge to the event.

Please visit the website for more info at www.ehakoagolftournament.com for more info or to make your donation to this wonderful non-profit effort!

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Backdoor Pipeline. Photo by gOnzo A very energetic stretch of reef, it will serve you a definitive shot of adrenaline every time you paddle out. The place requires all your focus and attention, since any wrong move or mistake faces serious consequences. The feeling of being inside one if its aquatic caverns is simply unique. For this image, I wanted to create the same vision surfers and bodyboarders experience through my fisheye lens.