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MANULELE AWARDS Celebrating Hawai`iâ€™s Top Water Men and Women
JOHN JOHN FLORENCE
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F R E E
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Sion Milosky, a true wave warrior who has left us to soon only to leave his mark as one of the humble, respectable, and hard-charging surfers to ever ride Pipeline. His legacy still lives strong through his nonprofit, the Sion Milosky Foundation, to which Volcom will charitably donate 3% of all Volcom Pipe Pro products sold in Hawaii. Photo: Eric Baesman
10 Free Parking 18 Editorâ€™s Note 17 Community 70 Volcom VIP's 74 News 82 Stuff We Like 84 Grom Report 88 She Rips 92 Surf Art 94 Industry Notes 96 Last Look
C O N T E N T S
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CELEBRATING THE HISTORY OF THE VOLCOM PIPE PRO
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M-7 Kerry Tokoro’s M-7 Model, is the perfect go-to board for those days when the waves get too big or powerful for your everyday shortboard. The clean lines, sophisticated bottom contours and rounded pintail design combine to make this board fast and loose, yet solid and stable. The bottom features a fair amount of rocker with a mix of single to double concave flowing to a slight vee off of the tail. This allows the board to fit into steep sections of the wave and keeps it feeling loose and maneuverable. If you’re looking for a step-up design that won’t sacrifice your performance, the M-7 is the right board for you.
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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to email@example.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015
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N O T E
By Keoki Saguibo
The relationship that we surfers have with Mother Nature runs deep from the day we catch our first wave. It flows through our whole lives, grounding us at the same time pushing us to strive for more. Surfing is one of the few sports where the athlete works in partnership with the ocean, harmonizing together in a creative flow to open up new channels to best express ourselves both freely and competitively. From the origins of surfing throughout the competitive history of the sport, Hawaii is not only the birthplace of wave riding, but also the time honored proving grounds for professional and aspiring surfers looking to stake a claim in the world of surfing. It is the central locale where the competition results play a role in the overall scheme of things, like qualifying for the World Tour and World Title crowns. The tides may rise and fall for leaders on the competitive surfing circuit, but the one constant you can consistently bank your reputation on, year in and year out, is the prestige of crowning yourself a champion at Pipeline. Many would agree that that personal victory is worth far more than any combination of money and points. As only six surfers have ever been crowned Volcom Pipe Pro champ (three of them multiple times) over it’s nine year history, earning the right to have your name etched into that lineage of Pipeline champions is considered one of the highest honors, right next to a Pipe Masters trophy or a World Title win.
E D I T O R ’ S
With almost a decade under its belt, the Volcom Pipe Pro is the first of a number of events in the WSL/Tahiti Nui region that starts the New Year with a bang. There’s no better break to kick it off at than the Queen of surf spots, Pipeline. “Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world,” says three-time Volcom Pipe Pro Champion Kelly Slater. Time has tested and proven that Pipeline is still the wave that all other waves are compared to. Every surfer dreams of getting at least one good memory from her each winter season hoping to walk away contented and maybe even striding with pride.
As we charge hard into 2019, let’s take a look back at what 2018 has taught us, with an eye on our future goals, individually and collectively. Some of us may have lost loved ones or close friends~only to teach us that time is more precious than we think. Our lessons shape and encourage us to better ourselves and our surfing community. For those of us lucky souls still able to ride waves and share these amazing moments with one another, let us cherish what this year brings, keep watching out for each other, and get out there in the ocean and make this an unforgettable year! Aloha, Keoki
The Banzai Pipeline is perhaps the most famous beach in the lore of surfing history. Pipe is one of the most feared and photographed waves on the planet and has been considered the proving grounds in competitive surfing ever since the beginning of the Volcom Pipe Pro and the Triple Crown of Surfing contests. Pipe’s prestige is unequalled anywhere in the world. That’s why the Pipe Masters event has been perceived as the pinnacle of competitive surfing since its introduction in 1970. However, the inherent financial and logistical obstacles one must overcome in order to qualify for the WSL Championship Tour has often left noteworthy local surfers out of the running. Ultimately, the Volcom Pipe Pro has supplied an excellent opportunity for the top homegrown talent and visiting Pipe warriors to prove themselves more than worthy of competing on what is arguably the best wave in the world. New in 2018 was an expanded 144 man format playing out over four days of competition. Making up more than 50% of
the list is local surfing talent, and the top 12 finishers then qualify for the Pipe Invitational, similar to a trial, with the top 2 surfers being awarded spots in the Billabong Pipe Masters. Thus, the importance of the event for local surfers is enormous. “What’s consistent is the amazing quality of waves we have for the Volcom Pipe Pro,” said contest director Marty Thomas. “We’ve had epic battles between Jamie O’Brien and John John Florence. Josh Moniz’s win last year was a major breakthrough for his career.” The origin of the Volcom Pipe Pro goes back to 2010 when North Shore charger Jamie O’Brien took the inaugural trophy. That first ever event was riddled with local surf royalty. Derek Ho sat way out the back waiting for one of the biggest waves of the day from Second Reef Pipe. Kauai’s Danny Fuller got a 10 in the first Semifinal, but didn’t manage to take home the crown. North Shore lifeguard Dave Wassell was awarded the “Todd
Celebrating the History of The Volcom Pipe Pro By Shannon Reporting
Chesser Sportsmanship Award”, given to the hardest charging surfer of the event. 13 year old Landon McNamara got demolished after falling on a huge wave, smashing his face into the reef. The young warrior broke his board, but redeemed himself afterwards by paddling back out and finding a clean in-and-out barrel ride. Growing up with Pipe in his backyard has turned Jamie O’Brien into a freak of nature, capable of pulling off shallow water stunts and surfing virtually any form of craft with ease, no matter how big or how heavy the wave. In fact, JOB has made the podium as runner-up nearly every year following his victory: 2011, 2012, 2016 and 2018. Always one to watch for his late drops, backside pig dogging, and barrel riding skills, JOB is surfing entertainment at its finest. John John Florence was the next local phenom to follow in Jamie’s footsteps as 2011’s Volcom Pipe Pro champ. Crowned at the impressive age of 17, he remains, he
No event would be the same without the likes of Kelly Slater, the winningest athlete the sport has ever known. Slater is quick to compete in all events at his beloved Banzai Pipeline, easily one of his favorite waves, always bringing the heat and always giving the other surfers a desperate run for their money. Slater claimed the throne as Volcom Pipe Pro victor in 2014 and 2016, closing out John John’s relentless winning streak. The battle between these two legends is a highlight for surf fans. “The Volcom Pipe Pro gets the pick of the litter in terms of best Pipe waves nearly
every year,” Kelly Slater told Freesurf Magazine. “Everybody who surfs it enters as much to get good Pipe as they do for the early QS points. Making a couple heats is great practice without all the people to deal with. I’ve loved competing in it.” Volcom Pipe Pro’s defending 2018 champion, Joshua Moniz, will be back for more. The 22-year old Hawaiian underdog from Kuliouou had his best career result on the North Shore last year in pumping 8-12 ft Pipe and Backdoor. Finals day was held on Super Bowl Sunday with some set waves peaking in the 15 ft range; it was a swell some say was the best of the 2017/18 winter season. “This is by far my greatest win, I’m going to remember this forever,” Moniz told the World Surf League on the podium. The Honolulu native comes from a family of seven, including World Champion longboarder Kelia Moniz; the entire family was on site to celebrate his win.
“It’s going to be crazy this year!” Josh Moniz told Freesurf Magazine. “It’s always a lot of fun because we typically get a lot of swell for the waiting period. Just to have the shot at surfing Pipeline with an empty lineup is one of the most special things as a surfer, and I can’t wait to get that opportunity again!” Empty waves and glory aside, Pipeline also delivers a hefty dose of battle scars and broken dreams. The treacherous reef is shallow and unforgiving. The severity of a wipeout here is no joking matter. The Hawaiian Water Patrol works hard all winter to handle what it dishes out… but when the right swell hits the North Shore and that horn blows, it’s every man for himself, going for broke out there. Good luck to all the Pipe warriors facing the wave in this year’s Volcom Pipe Pro contest. The event window runs from January 29 February 10 with a $70,000 prize purse. You do not want to miss this one., ‘cause you do not want to miss this one.
WSL / Heff
so far remains the youngest surfer to win a Pipeline event. Like JOB, Florence was raised on the 7 Mile Miracle. He first started pulling into backside barrels at Pipeline before he could drive a car. He was surfing in the Vans Triple Crown event at 13, the youngest competitor ever. Since then, he’s won the Volcom Pipe Pro an astonishing four times, and is definitely still the man to beat.
WSL /Heff Jamie O'Brien
Winner: Jamie O’Brien Runner-up: Anthony Walsh The inaugural event was a banger! Kauai’s Danny Fuller got a 10 in the first Semifinal, but didn’t manage to take home the crown. Maui’s Ian Walsh fell short in the Semis, but not before scoring a couple of good ones. Mark Matthews from Australia ended up with a respectable third place finish. 13 year old Landon McNamara got demolished after falling from a huge wave and smashing his face into the reef. The young warrior broke his board, but redeemed himself afterwards by paddling back out and finding a clean in-andout barrel ride. But in the final it was crystal clear that Pipeline local Jamie O’Brien deserved the win, riding high in his beautiful, glassy front yard. In addition to points and prize awards, honor was also conferred on North Shore lifeguard Dave Wassel, who received the “Todd Chesser Sportsmanship Award” in honor of the late surfer lost at sea. This award is given to the hardest charging surfer of the event every year.
BILLY KEMPER - 3X JAWS CHALLENGE CHAMPION PEAHI - JAWS
“I’m just psyched on getting to surf Pipe with just four guys out. It’s satisfaction to get two out here in a row. I love doing it and putting it all together; I’m just having fun,” said Florence.
An 18-year-old John John Florence took to the water in 2011 to win every one of his five heats, his highest heat score an impressive 18.66 out of 20 in Round 4, combo-ing the field. He had won the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout just three weeks prior. Even Jamie O’Brien’s deep, more-thanvertical drops weren’t enough to take on John. He comboed Chris Ward and Aamion Goodwin in the final.
Winner: John John Florence Runner-up: Jamie O’Brien
WSL / Latronix
Winner: John John Florence Runner-up: Jamie O’Brien
Hawai'i’s John John Florence created one of professional surfing’s most dramatic moments in 2012 to claim his second consecutive Volcom Pipe Pro title, completely flipping the table on former Pipe Pro champion, Jamie O’Brien, in the final seconds. JOB held the lead for the majority of the final, only to see the top spot disappear in the last minute. JJF paddled over and congratulated O’Brien with a hand shake thinking it was over, when suddenly a dark line on the horizon caught his eye. One last wave stacked up on the reef, as JJF clawed his way past JOB throwing himself over the ledge and into a 9.93 tube ride to sneak away with the victory. Remembered as one of the wildest moments to date in Volcom Pipe Pro history, these last 10 nail-biting seconds awarded JJF with a custom warrior helmet trophy and $20k. And legend status… just when we thought Slater was the mind to beat with his infamous tricky banter in the water, John John showed him up and snuck away with the win.
Winner: John John Florence Runner-up: Chris Ward John John Florence claimed his third consecutive Volcom Pipe Pro title in 2013, eliminating Californian Chris Ward, Australian Josh Kerr, and Maui’s Olamana Eleogram in the Final. An in-tune Florence sat relaxed in position for the rights at Backdoor, scoring two great tube rides within the first three minutes of the final, leaving his opponents scratching to catch up. “It was definitely a special Final for me, my third time in a row. I can’t even believe it,” said Florence. The win came after he survived a tight Quarterfinal clash with three other surfers who had previously tasted victory: Jamie O’Brien, Reef McIntosh, and Bruce Irons. 30
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Photo Clark Little
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2014 With superb 8-to-12 ft barreling A-frames filling the lineup on Day 2 of the 2014 Volcom Pipe Pro, competitors were ready to get pitted in a 4-man crowd. Amazing rides went down as a light South wind direction kept the waves nice and hollow for takeoffs at Pipe and Backdoor. But one of the biggest upsets came as defending champ John John Florence came up short against American rippers Parker Coffin and Evan Geiselman, who got the best waves to kill John’s chances at a 4 time repeat. When it comes to Finals, there’s one name that never ceases to resonate. Besides JJF, JOB and Andy Irons, there’s no one else who can dissect the Pipeline lineup like Kelly Slater. But his victory road still had a few comers to take down as hungry local boys Mason Ho, Kiron Jabour, Dusty Payne, and Torrey Meister were hot on Slater’s tail, chasing his fumes into the Semis.
Winner: Kelly Slater Runner-up: Wiggoly Dantas
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Heff John Florence
2015 Winner: John John Florence Runner-up: Mason Ho John Johnâ€™s fourth title in five years, the phenom went home $16,000 richer, celebrating the well deserved win in fine fashion with toasts, drinks and dinner at Lei Leiâ€™s in Turtle Bay.
Over 100 warriors entered the 2015 Volcom Pipe Pro, but only one would take home the Spartan helmet. Adding a fourth trophy to his collection, 22-year-old John John Florence claimed victory on February 2nd, defeating Mason Ho, Kelly Slater, and Sebastian Zietz in highly technical 6-to-8 ft conditions at Backdoor. John John had the 35-minute Final in the bag within the first seven minutes, posting wave scores of 9.2 and 8.43 for the highest heat score of the entire event -- 17.63 out of 20. Florence and Slater were the pair to beat from the get-go, pushing each other round for round and flip-flopping on highest wave and heat scores all along the way.
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2016 Winner: Kelly Slater Runner-up: Jamie O’Brien
The 8-10 ft WNW surf opened the 2016 Volcom Pipe Pro, as Kauai’s Koa Smith rattled off backto-back nine point rides. Bruce Irons advanced along with two wildcards - Gavin Beschen and Balaram Stack. Allowing wildcards in on the action is part of what makes the annual Volcom Pipe Pro so unique. Since the contest has a QS 3000 rating, it provides an entrance ticket to an arena with a fat purse up for grabs with cash prize totaling $100,000 for local and travelling hellmen
who wouldn’t otherwise have the rankings necessary to compete for such a big bone. “Everyone gets one chance,” said Dave Wassel. “It takes a whole lifetime to earn respect. It takes 5 seconds to lose it, plain and simple.” Jamie O’Brien, a standout crowd favorite throughout the 3 day event, placed second to Kelly Slater overall. Slater notched yet another win in his belt, taking home first place.
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Winner: Soli Bailey Runner-up: Adriano de Souza Unsung Hawaiian talent, 15-year-old Wyatt McHale nailed an 8.5 on Day 1, the best wave ridden in the main event. Makua Rothman pulled into a Backdoor barrel that stretched to Off the Wall on Day 2, as the crowd went wild and the judges awarded him the only 10-point ride of the day. On the last day of the contest, Soli Bailey found a double barrel to ride through to the Finals. Volcom also presented a $60,000 check to the Boys & Girls Club and a $16,000 check to the Sion Memorial Fund, which continues to be a cornerstone of the Volcom Pipe Proâ€™s contribution to the community.
WSL / Keoki
Over its eight year history, the Volcom Pipe Pro had seen only three different winners: Jamie Oâ€™Brien, John John Florence, and defending champion Kelly Slater. Going into the 2017 event, JJF was predicted to win in his customary blazing, barreling fashion. But the 4 day contest held several unexpected surprises in store, including one bloodied eye, several stitches, a number of broken boards, unmeasurable cheers reverberating from the respective team houses, innumerable claim after claim after claim, and a brand new Aussie champion.
Defending champion: Joshua Moniz Runner-up: Jamie O’Brien
Jamie O’Brien snuck into the event after winning the intensely competitive 8-man, 30-minute Volcom Last Chance Qualifier. He surfed a near-perfect heat without priority in double-overhead sets against Hawaiian locals Gavin Beschen, Dave Wassel, Kalani Chapman, Jonah Morgan, Takayuki Wakita, and former World Champion and Pipe Master Derek Ho. Ho was a sight to behold, continuously exploding out of the surf with a wall of spray and always managing to be in the sweet spot, reminding the crowded beach of the talent that earned him the first Hawaiian World Title back in 1993. Finals day landed on Super Bowl Sunday, as perfect cylinders churned across the reef groomed by offshore winds. The mostly underdog Final was a full-on, nonstop barrel fest. 38
Last year, the competitive field was expanded from 112 surfers to 144, nearly half of which were representing Hawai'i'. Poetically and understandably, the top two spots went to North Shore boys, with prodigal son Josh Muniz ultimately adding his name to the prestigious list of past winners alongside the likes of John John Florence and Kelly Slater. “100% this was the best win of my professional career,” Moniz said. “I’m going to remember it forever.”
C O M M U N I T Y
Volcom Art Mash & Skate Jam By Mara Pyzel Photos Keoki
Volcom has always stood out with their funky designs and rough, raw art style. The brand’s eminent black and white stone logo is prominently featured in their hand sketched and collage style ads and has become a staple of skate and surf art and culture around the world. Their brightly painted geometric wall, located on the beach access in between the two Volcom Pipe houses, provides the backdrop for what is easily one of the North Shore’s favorite selfie snapping spots. The avant garde brand recently teamed up with Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii to host the Volcom Art Mash and Skate Jam at their Pipe houses. This event had it all going on from beats and booze to bites and boards - and, of course, art!
The Sunday evening soiree was an all-ages event, with little ones running about while their parents mingled, sipping beer and wine donated by Pacifico and Volcom, respectively. Volcom team rider Gavin Beschen looked on supportively as wife Kendyl and daughter Marlee strummed guitars and sang for the crowd. Later in the evening, Honolulu’s DJ duo The Lucky Kids got people moving and shaking on the dance floor. The entire first floor of Volcom’s Gerry Lopez House had been transformed into a proper art gallery. The eclectic mix of art for purchase was magnificently displayed with accentuating spotlights. Local surfers and visiting pros, such as Mikey O'Shaughnessy and Michel Bourez, meandered through the exhibition, pausing to take in the many eye catching pieces. The event also attracted other artists interested in scoping out the work, including Ethan Estess, the creator of the Plastic Free Pipeline Wave Sculpture at the Billabong Pipe Masters contest site, Ehukai Beach Park. The buzz of friendly chatter 40
filled the air and the place was packed, hosting over 500 guests throughout the course of the evening. Ke Nui Kitchen kept the crowd fed with their mouth watering pupus like chicken and waffles, poke, pineapple, cheese and tapenade toasties - all on the house. Thanks, Volcom! After receiving a blessing of rain, some of Volcom’s best skaters joined forces with local rippers to shred the newly assembled halfpipe gracing the lawn, constructed solely for the event. Sitting on picnic tables, hanging out in the yard, or viewing from the lanai, a constant crowd of onlookers gasped and cheered while the skaters ripped it up on the ramp under a starry sky lighted by a silver moon. All this visual artistry added that classic Volcom stamp to the event, distinctively setting it apart from all other art shows.
This particular art show concept had been brewing for several years, but the timing was never quite right until this past December. Vice President of Global Surf Volcom, Brad Dougherty commented regarding similar Volcom sponsored art and skate events, “We do things like this all the time, so we might as well [raise funds to] donate.” Dougherty also pointed out that Volcom has always sought out team riders possessing some artistic flair, and that he and the other guys at Volcom saw this event as a perfect opportunity for their team riders to showcase talents other than surfing and skating. The featured artists of the evening are all members of the extended Volcom family. Tai Van Dyke, Gavin Beschen, Brian Bielmann, Arto Saari, Hank Foto, and Ozzie Wright are just a few of the many creative athletes who donated generously to the event. Works of art included colorfully illustrated skate decks and surfboards, surf and ocean photography, portraits of legends like skate pioneer Jay Adams, classic posters, abstract oil on canvas statement making pieces, and Volcom Stone themed black and white sketches. A cartoon themed head-to-toe ensemble including boardshorts, aloha shirt, and matching towel was donated by the North Shore’s
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favorite political(ly incorrect) cartoonist Drew Toons. Also up for sale was an ukulele from acclaimed musician Pepe Romero. Volcom team rider Noa Deane even contributed some shiny new tools! Volcom generously gifted all proceeds from the art sale to Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii. Over the past few years, the environmental nonprofit has been working closely with the World Surf League to ‘green’ the Triple Crown events through waste management and plastic free initiatives. Last year, surfer and executive director of Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii, Kahi Pacarro, and his team were able to divert 65% of the waste from each of the three Triple Crown contests. With high hopes to increase this amount every year, these guys are campaigning hard for a decrease in single-use plastics at the events. As for sustainability initiatives at the Art Mash and Skate Jam itself, Dougherty led by example, bringing his own reusable cup to the party. Those without cups were provided a cornstarch based alternative for drinking
wine, while Pacifico served up their brew in recyclable HI5s. Pupus were served on compostable plant fiber skewers generating zero rubbish. Volcom’s own Tai Van Dyke personally handcrafted the frames for much of the art by upcycling old wooden jalousie window slats from the Volcom house. Although a recycling and compost station was conscientiously put into place, a Sustainable Coastlines rep proudly reported that the bins went practically unused - a direct credit to the group effort at mālama `āina that everyone was there to support in the first place. Art prices ranged from $5$1,000 and Volcom successfully raised over $3,000 from sales. One hundred percent of those proceeds was donated to Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii to support and encourage the 501(c)3 nonprofit to continue working on the shared objective of promoting a sustainable surf culture and healthier oceans and beaches. Judging by the success of the event and the enthusiasm of everyone involved, this could be the first of many fabulous art events!
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WARRIORS By Keoki Saguibo
Long considered the Coliseum of surfing, Pipeline is that wave of all waves where ocean warriors gather from all across the globe in hopes of proving - to themselves as well as the entire surfing world - that they have what it takes, both bravado and skill, to ride the world's most famous wave. Some enjoy the occasional passionate fling at this renowned break as they pass through Hawaii on a whirlwind surfing escapade. Others are fortunate enough to have a day in and day out long term relationship with Pipe, developing their athletic assets and thriving as individuals, the well deserved rewards for putting in the hard work of getting to know her in all her moods, all year round. It is a very short list of super select surfers to have ever been bestowed the coveted title of â€œPipeline Gladiatorâ€?. All have spent years riding the heights and descending the depths as they have dedicated their lives (and some have nearly lost theirs) in pursuit of the privilege and the glory of joining that elite circle. Here are your 2019 Volcom Wildcard Wave Warriors.
DEREK HO A true Hawaiian surfing icon, it’s a pretty safe bet that the North Shore’s Derek Ho has put more time in at his beloved Pipeline break than anyone else on the planet, and shows no sign of letting up. In 1993, Derek was the first Hawaiian to claim a World Title under the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals), and retains the distinction of being the surfer to bring Kelly Slater’s 1992-93 winning streak to an end. With multiple Triple Crown titles~4, to be exact~Derek and his brother Mike dominated the first four years of the Hawaiian series. You can still find this super primed 54 year old out in the lineup on the best and biggest days Pipe has to offer. Ho’s legendary status is such that he leads the lineup with the first choice pick of every set wave that comes through. With all that prestige and all those years’ experience backing him, it’ll be a privilege to be on hand when Derek brings it to this year’s Volcom Pipe Pro.
KAIMANA HENRY Kaimana Henry is a perfect example of what today’s Hawaiian power surfing looks like. Standing 6ft tall with the solid body stature of a football player, Kai’s front-side power hack has been a tour de force for over 20 years. He exerts his full power not only on the wave face, but also utilizes that brute strength to pound some of the gnarliest waves rolling through the Pipeline/Backdoor reef, forcing his way through foam balls and some seriously dicey sections. Don’t expect to see Kai rolling in on a Second Reef Pipe bomb; you’ll find him taking off under the ledge of the First Reef on the heaviest and thickest waves Pipeline has to offer.
KALANI CHAPMAN A product of the Seven Mile Miracle, North Shore local Kalani Chapman’s roots reach deep down into the reef at Pipeline. With a lineage that includes uncle Owl Chapman, legendary North Shore surfer and shaper, and older brother Shawn Briley, one of Pipeline’s all time best surfers, Kalani was bred to surf Pipe. This stockily built goofy-footer is known to make his mark whenever Pipe hits 12ft+. Kalani has bagged some of the world famous break’s most epic rides, including his Andy Irons tribute for Wave of the Winter in 2010. After a near fatal wipeout two years ago at Pipeline, which sidelined him for the remainder of the season, Kalani came back in 2018 charging harder than ever. “I love Pipeline and I always will. That’s where my heart is, that’s what I was raised to do,” says Kalani.
TAKAYUKI WAKITA From the Land of the Rising Sun, Japan’s Takayuki Wakita has earned a name in the Pipeline hierarchy for his “go for broke” approach when taking off on some of the Pipe’s biggest days. He’s the only surfer to ever have a section of this particular reef named after him, the “Wakita Bowl”, found right between Backdoor and Pipe. Wakita’s eye catching blue helmet emblazoned with flames makes him a flashy addition to Pipeline’s long list of talented and eccentric surfers, and easy to spot, even on the most crowded of days. Well in his prime and with no sign of backing off, Wakita would be one tough draw in any heat.
MIKEY O’ SHAUGHNESSY Hailing from the Big Island of Hawai’i, Mikey O’Shaughnessy has been carving his name into North Shore wave faces for the past decade. Known for catching some of the seasons’ most memorable rides all over Oahu’s Seven Mile Miracle and beyond, this humble redhead from Kalapana is an extremely dangerous opponent, especially on his forehand at Pipeline’s alter ego, Backdoor. Mikey’s expertise shines in hollow, death-defying pits~and he has a Surfline Wave of the Winter under his belt to prove it, picked up in a large, lengthy OTW barrel back in 2016. “I’m very thankful for the waves and what the North Shore provides for us. I love it because it’s the ultimate challenge as a surfer. One wave here can change your life forever. That keeps me hungry and coming back for more every season.”
MITCH COLEBORN Australian goofy-footer Mitch Coleborn is nothing less than an absolute freak in the water. This prized Volcom athlete has a talent for creating some of surfing’s highest and most innovative aerial maneuvers. Mitch is a surfer you don’t want to take your eyes off of the moment his feet hit the board. Creativity, a highly sought after and difficult to judge component in ride scoring, is a Coleborn specialty. He managed to garner the number 34 slot on the World Championship Tour in 2014 via wildcard slots, and in only four events--now that’s a wild ride! He lets his free surfing antics do the talking for him as he ascends the competitive rankings. If the waves show up for the Pipeline party this year, Mitch Coleborn will be there, boosting up and over his sections, champagne glass in hand.
NOA DEANE It comes as no surprise that Noa Deane, son of legendary Australian surfer Wayne Deane, rides a surfboard like he was born to, exemplifying the flairy, high action of today’s new school approach to surfing. Although riding big Pipe barrels isn’t necessarily Noa’s forte, he’s been known to pick off his share of precious gems, as in the 2018 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, where Deane aggressively charged one of the biggest Backdoor waves of the event. Noa has plenty of creative energy, both in and out of the water, so don’t be surprised if some of your favorite surfers fall victim to the natural prowess of this tough heat draw...consider yourself warned.
TOM DOSLAND Maui’s Tom Dosland has a reputable relationship with fear. With a knack for charging huge waves and holding nothing back, Tom has thrown himself over the ledge on many, many occasions~including his now famous 2017 wipeout at Jaws, where he air dropped on a 30ft wave only to have his leash catch him mid-air, cartwheeling him down the face. Tom also has a Pipeline title under his belt from the Hansen’s Energy Pro back in 2004. Though it may have been a while since Tom’s magic conjured him a win, don’t count the Haiku local out just yet. His calm, go-for-it demeanor has him consistently pushing the limits as he takes on the world’s most quintessential wave, season after season. Those killer wipeouts are just one ingredient in Tom’s recipe for greatness.
DUSTY PAYNE A longtime member of the Volcom family, Maui’s Dusty Payne has had his share of ups and downs lately, but this guy is one of the most superior athletes the sport of surfing has ever seen. Bouncing back from a near death wipeout at Backdoor last season, he jumped back on and started competing inside a year following the harrowing incident, and that, friends, is the true definition of a fighter. Dusty is a great allround surfer with a bag of tricks slap full of big airs and power turns, and long, beautiful tubes~in fact, he is easily considered one of the world’s best barrel riders. All that skill combined with Dusty’s competitive edge makes him a serious threat to the best of the best at any venue, making him a heck of a potential spoiler as a heat draw on the World Qualifying Series.
BALARAM STACK Surfers who grow up in locales where the waves are pretty much lemons have to learn to make some pretty sick lemonade. East Coast charger-turned-Pipeline specialist Balaram Stack was born in Florida and moved to New York as a child, but religiously travels to Hawaii to do just that, surfing the biggest and best Pipe has to offer. Coming from a place where an ideal wave isnâ€™t even close to big by Hawaii standards, a maxed out day at Pipeline appears a sweet lemon drop to Bal, paddling alone into the washed out arena to pluck himself a juicy treat from the sea. Though he has yet to snag himself a Pipeline title, every season this goofy footer comes here and picks up a few Wave of the Winter entries. Bal could very well be the Volcom spoiler in this event; as he has no need to accumulate World Tour points, but is rather out there with that pure and simple goal of snatching some of the best rides of the year, jersey or no jersey, to take home with him. And that could very well be what makes him the most dangerous of all competitors.
DAVE WASSEL You’d be hard pressed to find any character in the surfing world more unique than 46 year old North Shore lifeguard and longtime Volcom family member Dave Wassel. Having a deep belief in water safety instilled in him by his parents, who insisted that he strap a lifejacket on every day at the beach till age 15, Dave’s lifelong mission is to help others whenever needed, especially in the ocean. With an easy familiarity with big bombs and his staple backside bottom turn, Dave has snagged himself a scrapbook full of incredible rides at Pipeline and Backdoor, in Fiji, and wherever the waves get heavy. And his foot is still plenty heavy on the gas pedal. Count on Dave to get one of the biggest waves of the session at Pipe, to perform multiple rescues in one day, to make you laugh til you can’t breathe, and to enjoy a good ‘talk story’ afterwards, knowing everyone is going home safe and sound . Being in the presence of this true waterman is an humbling experience in and of itself.
Evan Valiere Photo: Keoki
Balaram Stack Photo: Tony Heff
Parker Coffin Photo: Keoki
Flynn Novak Photo: Austin Moor
Coco Ho Photo: Tyler Rock
Timmy Reyes Photo: Keoki
Nathan Florence Photo: Mike Latronic
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Dave Riddle & Jason Shibata By Shannon Reporting Front and center to the waves of the winter, the Volcom Pipe House legacy all began with Gerry Lopez, the previous owner and builder of the best view of Banzai Pipeline you could ask for. For many it will always be Gerry’s house, where “Mr. Pipeline” would wax up his hand-shaped single fins and walk a few steps to the shore to surf the most photogenic wave the world has ever seen. So in the year 2007, when Volcom expanded and purchased the three-storied property, they also took over the responsibility of filling its rooms with the top pick of the litter. Some of its first residents were Bruce Irons, who had won the Pipe Masters, David Wassel, Tai Vandyke, and Dean Morrison. The Pipe House quickly became a gathering of the top barrel riders. Surfing icons abound, the Volcom Pipe House remains the epicenter of the North Shore action. We caught up with Volcom surf team director David Riddle, and Hawaii surf team manager Jason Shibata, to find out how they go about the selection process of their athlete roster. What does it take to be a Volcom rider? We reminisce on some of the wildest moments from years past, and discuss what are they looking forward to most with the upcoming Volcom Pipe Pro event around the corner.
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What makes the Volcom team stand out? Jason Shibata: "The Volcom surf team is unique to other brands in the sense that our guys are characters; personality is a big part of what we focus on with the surfers that we support. In today’s age, everybody surfs really good, but it’s those quirky personalities that really stand out." David Riddle: “In surfing, a lot of emphasis is put on competitions and results. We’re a little bit more quirky. Of course we want results - we’d love to go into and event and win it, but it’s not the bottom line. I’m not saying we’re anti-contest, but we’re a little off-the-grid.”
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that the winner of that Last Chance Qualifier has gone on to do big things. Jamie O’Brien is one of the names that comes to mind as one of the standouts. They can navigate their way through the lineup, just like a normal freesurf, even if there’s 50 to 150 people out there, and still find the best wave and move on to the main event.” What are some of the wildest moments from previous Volcom Pipe Pro events?
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Kelly to come out and compete in the event, especially when he doesn’t have to, shows his love for Pipeline and desire to surf that wave with only three other guys out. We were stoked to have him in the event, and were stoked he won it.” JS: “There are always wild moments in terms of every year there are standout, and surfers you may never have heard of because they’re either young or they are less experienced out there
What’s your favorite part of the Volcom Pipe Pro? DR: “What I’m really excited about is that we’ve kept the contest on a local level. If it was a 10,000, or a Prime event, it would be tough for a lot of the local kids to get in. We’ve stayed true to that. I’m not only excited about our locals boys getting to surf Pipe with just three others in the lineup in extreme conditions, but also to see people from other places come and have the opportunity to surf that wave with only three others in the lineup.” JS: “My favorite part of the Volcom Pipe Pro is the Volcom Last Chance Qualifier. It’s unique to our event at Pipeline, and what’s so special about it is that it’s not a traditional heat with four surfers with priority; it’s 6, sometimes 8 or 9... We just try to fit in as many of the great Pipe surfers we can that aren’t in the event to give them a chance to show their stuff and qualify for one of our Round of 96 spots. In previous years, it has proven
DR: “One of the craziest moments was when John John and Jamie O’Brien had the hand shake. John needed a big score. They shook hands, he thought it was over, and then BANG! He got a huge score and won with absolutely no time on the clock. That’s a hard one to beat. There was also the year that Kelly Slater got a crazy backside barrel, manipulated and twisted his body contorted to come out of that thing, and he won it. For
navigating the crowds. I’m always excited to see who is the new face emerging to put on a performance. Last year it was Cam Richards, the kid from South Carolina, who put on a phenomenal show. And previously it was Marco Giorgi from Uruguay. You always have these fresh names, when given the chance to surf out there with only three people and some time on the clock, amazing things happen."
"The Volcom surf team is unique to other brands in the sense that our guys are characters; personality is a big part of what we focus on with the surfers that we support. "
- Jason Shibata
NEWS & EVETS
JOEL PARKINSON CLAIMS SECOND HAWAIIAN PRO Photos Keoki
2012 World Champion Joel Parkinson (AUS) was a vision of classic power surfing today at the Hawaiian Pro and earned the event win for the second time in his professional career. The Australian is now the front runner for the 36th Annual Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS) title after besting a dynamic Final field that included Mateus Herdy (BRA) who earned runner up, Ricardo Christie (NZL) who finished third and Deivid Silva (BRA) in fourth. Hawaiian athlete and QS crusader, Seth Moniz (HAW) had a dream run today after advancing to the Semifinals, taking home 5,100 points and officially qualifying for the 2019 CT.
Hawaiian Pro Results 1st – Joel Parkinson (AUS), 17.36 2nd – Mateus Herdy (BRA), 15.83 (8.83 + 7.00) 3rd – Ricardo Christie (NZL), 15.83 (8.40 + 7.43) 4th – Deivid Silva (BRA), 15.36
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NEWS & EVETS
Honolulu’s Ezekiel Lau (HAW) claimed victory today at the World Surf League (WSL) Vans World Cup of Surfing Qualifying Series (QS) 10,000 event, the second stop of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, after a dramatic day of competition unfolded in solid 12-15ft. surf at Sunset Beach. Today’s triumph marks Lau’s second Vans World Cup win (his first in 2013) and a massive achievement for the Hawaiian after defeating an international field of 128 top-ranked athletes, including Jesse Mendes (BRA), who earned runner up, Joan Duru (FRA) in third and Griffin Colapinto (USA) in fourth.
HAWAIIAN EZEKIEL LAU WINS VANS WORLD CUP OF SURFING
2018 Vans World Cup of Surfing Results 1st – Ezekiel Lau (HAW) 12.66 2nd – Jesse Mendes (BRA) 7.63 3rd – Joan Duru (FRA) 7.33 4th – Griffin Colapinto (USA) 4.67
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NEWS & EVETS
Grant Twiggy Baker
Maui’s own Billy Kemper (HAW) won the Jaws Challenge at Pe‘ahi, one of three stops on the World Surf League (WSL) Men’s Big Wave Tour (BWT), for the third time in his career.
Competition resumed with Round 1 Heat 2 after being called off yesterday and Kemper picked up where he left off to set today’s tone with more exhilarating performances as he battled
WSL / Morris
WSL / Hallman
Billy Kemper Wins Jaws Challenge at Pe’ahi Billy Kemper
back and forth with Kai Lenny (HAW) in the Final. This marks a career-defining moment for Kemper as his third Big Wave Tour win on home turf. Kemper’s ability to hunt down some of the heaviest waves and attack the barrels on offer separated him from the rest of the competition today with a brilliant 23.84 (out of a possible 30) heat total.
Men’s Jaws Challenge Final Results 1 - Billy Kemper (HAW) 23.84 2 - Kai Lenny (HAW) 23.56 3 - Albee Layer (HAW) 17.40 4 - Tyler Larronde (HAW) 16.06 5 - Grant Baker (ZAF) 8.10 6 - Koa Rothman (HAW) 2.19
Carissa Moore Wins Beachwaver Maui Pro with Perfect 10
WSL / Cestari
WSL / Sloane
WSL / Cestari
NEWS & EVETS
The conditions at this year's Beachwaver Maui Pro, the final stop on the 2018 World Surf League (WSL) Women’s Championship Tour (CT), were all-time and 3X WSLChampion Carissa Moore (HAW) took full advantage, winning over Malia Manuel (HAW) in the Final heat of the season with a Perfect 10-point ride. Moore clinched her 20th CT victory today, her third at Honolua Bay, and rounds out the season at No. 3 on the Jeep Leaderboard. “It’s so special,” said Moore. “My whole family came over and the waves were perfect. Probably the best competitive day I’ve had in my life and just to finish off the season like that is so good. I’m so in love with everything in my life right now. My support crew, surfing and I’m so grateful for the WSL. I’m speechless right now.”
“It was a dream come true to get a 10,” continued Moore. “There was so much emotion at that point, I just started crying and I can’t thank the locals enough for letting us surf your beautiful wave. I’ll definitely take some time off to soak it in. Nothing beats winning in the ocean in perfect surf. The Surf Ranch was awesome, but this is pretty sweet. I’m just loving what I’m doing and so fired up. I’m excited for next year and stoked for Steph (Gilmore), it’s been a big event and a big year and everyone deserves some time off.”
WSL / Cestari
Keala Kennelly Wins Jaws Challenge at Pe'ahi
Kauai's Keala Kennelly (HAW) won the Jaws Challenge at Pe'ahi, one of two stops on the World Surf League (WSL) Women's Big Wave Tour (BWT). The women kicked off competition in 35-to-50 foot surf at Pe'ahi on Maui's North Shore, completing the event, while the men got through Round 1 Heat 1 before the competition was put on hold due to the long-period swell creating unsafe conditions. Kennelly's bravery led the charge as she and her fellow competitors pushed the envelope for big wave surfing. The 40-year-old threw caution to the wind on some of the morning's heaviest drops,
followed by gut-wrenching wipeouts, which proved to be the difference maker for her maiden BWT victory. The Hawaiicompetitor didn't back down in either her Semifinal or Final heats, keeping Andrea Moller (BRA), Emily Erickson (HAW), and reigning BWT World Champion Paige Alms (HAW) at bay.
Women's Jaws Challenge Final Results 1 - Keala Kennelly (HAW) 8.67 2 - Andre Muller (BRA) 7.97 3 - Emily Erickson (HAW) 7.86 4 - Paige Alms (HAW) 4.01
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STUFF WE LIKE
Honolulu Buick/GMC/Cadillac “We like riding in style!” Who doesn't like to ride in style!? The folks at Honolulu Buick/GMC/ Cadillac certainly do! This auto company, renowned for leading in innovation and high style, has officially jumped on board for the 2018/19 surfing season! On teaming up with Manulele, Inc. to create exciting special event offerings via Freesurf Magazine and Boardstories TV, General Sales Manager Justen Chilcoat enthuses, “We’re excited to support NSSA Hawaii events and the opportunities it provides for the athletes. We hope it will provide additional exposure for our competitors. Additionally, we are stoked to be a part of the Manulele Awards and recognize some of the best surfers in the world.” Be on the lookout for fun stories integrating surfers test riding boards in the water as they travel to their surf destination in comfort, function and style! The Canyon Truck featured here is one of many superb beach going vehicles to be showcased en route to some super sick surfing sessions!
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“We like keeping our stuff!” Sisters Sharon Stone and Doreen Spinney opened their mobile lockstation as a proactive response to prevalent beach parking “smash and grab” thievery. Community response has been overwhelmingly positive as local surfers, island visitors, and law enforcement are stoked to have this community service provided at great rates while reducing crime. Enjoy a worry-free day at the beach and special island events with Beach Box Lockers~find out where they will be on any given day by looking them up on Facebook or Instagram.
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Lohé La'anui By Matt Bender
Wind-torn waves lazily fizzle towards shore. Various, oversize planks comprise a frothing flotilla, with a singular shortboard thrown in the mix. On it, a lanky local boy with sun-bleached locks flies along stylishly, gleaning any and all speed available from the most acute of sections. It’s unmistakably Lohé La’anui. The remarkable regular foot puts his performance thruster through the paces as he practices a surprisingly mature repertoire of carves and gaffs wherever pockets present themselves. Physique and form don’t fit: the gangly, growing body says generation air reverse to the flats, but Lohé takes a more traditional approach, paying noticeable tribute to his favorites in Parko and Slater. It’s a sub-par day at home for the RVCA, OAM, Matunas, Surfboards Makaha, Quality Surfboards ambassador, but the 14-year-old’s approach is an exciting display of champion form. He’s making his dad proud here at White Plains Beach, in southwest Oahu. Lifeguard captain Marvin La’anui catches intermittent glimpses of his Hawaiian son as he rides waves at a near-constant rate. Solid as a surfer—even having recently won a grom comp at his homebreak—Lohé surprisingly describes himself as a “singer who surfs”, and you might call him a prodigy of both artistic disciplines. A look at his Instagram (@lohemusic) reveals a plurality of exceptional talent, with emphasis placed on the “m” word. When asked if he
aspires to charge bigger waves, he hesitates and then replies with a smile “I like big waves, but…well, I want to charge the stage”. Is his adolescent focus failing him? Actually, Lohé’s dedication to music has realistically turned into another potential career, and at an age where most keiki are just trying to figure out even one thing they’e really into, besides playing Fortnite. With a bell-like voice that rings true under pressure, plus a penchant for playing guitar, ukulele, and keyboard, this young performer is wise to begin pursuing a path towards professional musicianship. In fact, following his heart in this creative pastime has already earned him guest appearances at shows at the Hyatt in Honolulu and even a live solo act on KHON news. How does this ambitious grom—who’s also somewhat reserved, even a bit shy—deal with the inherent pressure and anxiety? “I get nervous, but I don’t let the nerves bother me if I know my lyrics and I’ve put in the work to prepare…It’s like a surf contest. I think about the way it’s going to be, and even what could go wrong, and prepare my mind.” So, putting in the hard yards is key? “Yeah, if I’m winging it, that’s when the nerves can get to me…[my first show] I didn’t even know what to do with the mic. I accidentally unplugged it [but quickly plugged it back in] mid-show (laughs)…it’s all a learning experience.”
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He’s learning quickly. Six months playing guitar, two years or so on the ukulele, and the emerging artist is already doing shows on live tv. But Lohé is quick to downplay his abilities. “I just play chords to sing over,” he humbly asserts of his technique. This is easier said than done, playing right in the pocket, alongside a simultaneously sung vocal part. So far his official material is—as categorized on Apple Music—”pop”. That’s not what you might expect from a surfer, which is refreshing. The powerful, alto-perhaps-soon-to-be-tenor singer phrases vocal parts eloquently, and says he draws inspiration from hip-hop, Bruno Mars, even Frank Sinatra. He also saw Def Leppard recently, and his mom and dad have seen “everybody”, including rock legends like Metallica and Robert Plant. He hardly acknowledges any island/reggae or Hawaiian influence, but these are apparent in his act and almost go without saying here on Oahu. With plenty breadth to his body of influence and a unique tonal profile, it will be entertaining to see what styles he embraces most. Music is in La’anui’s DNA.. His great grandmother sang professionally, and his mom, Trisha, is an avid enthusiast. It’s a legacy he’s stoked to carry on—but not necessarily for a career, he clarifies. “I just want to follow my passion. I’m thinking more about my lyrics,
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the next show, the next goal, which I’ll write on a whiteboard, than I am about a career right now.” What’s his drive then? “I love to share energy. You can make a connection with somebody. You might make them super happy, or even maybe make them cry their eyes out, but you’re sharing energy—a feeling…that’s my favorite thing about music”. Right now, Lohé is psyching on his next big thing, a music video expected to drop in January entitled “Looking for the Light”. He co-wrote the song and sings the (challenging) chorus. “My voice is starting to change, so I have to keep practicing my high range in order to be able to hit those tones.” Even if Lohé does lose some of his high notes as he matures—no worries—a voice like his comes from a gifted, finely tuned ear more than anything. Plus, this guy has high range to spare. HIs heart also seems to be in the right place, a factor that guides careers towards success. This intrepid entertainer surely has an interesting journey ahead. Expect impressive showings both in the surf and in the spotlight on stage in the future of the multitalented Lohé La’anui. To listen to Lohe and find out more, including upcoming gigs check out Lohemusic.com
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How early did you know that pro surfing was the career for you? “I actually won my first contest when I was six years old at the Menehune. It was in the 4-6 division, boy and girl. After that I was like, ‘This is what I want to do.’” What is it about competitive surfing that really works with your personality? “With competing, I’ve always just…I don’t know how to word this…it’s just a way for me to be myself and represent who I am without having to talk. I let my surfing do the talking.” What has been you biggest recent achievement that you’re proud of?
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ANGELINA YOSSA By Kyveli Diener
Tell me about how you first learned to surf — do you remember your first wave?
Hometown: Haleiwa, HI Sponsors: Meeks Surfboards, Pakaloha Bikinis, FlHi Girls TV, Chance ‘Em, Tools Surfing
Angelina Yossa is as polite and sweet as she is unapologetically self-assured. Since winning her first contest at the age of six in her home break of Haleiwa, so had no doubts that the life of a traveling competitive surfer was meant for her. As her skills improved, so did her opportunities: she was just 10 years old when a chance conversation with big wave charger Betty Depolito at the Triple Crown landed her her first sponsor, Depolito’s local women’s surf show FlHi Girls TV. But even before companies wanted to give Yossa money for her surfing, she was earning it herself by baking endless batches of cookies to finance surf trips away from Oahu. The Waialua High School sophomore is shooting up regional junior rankings anywhere she competes, and even if she can’t find the exact words to describe how she’s pulling it off, her powerful surfing is making the message loud and clear.
“I have a twin sister [who’s older by 27 minutes], so my mom would take us out on her longboard when we were three years old. One of us would wait on the beach and take turns surfing Haleiwa over to the side, like over at Peaks. We had this favorite longboard and she would take us out with little floaties on our arms. I actually don’t remember the very first time [I stood up], but I do remember some times just being on the board with her and catching waves with her, but that very first time is just a blur.”
“Not too recent, but back in April I placed 2nd in the HASA State Championships. I’m also ranked #1 in two divisions for HASA [girls 14-15 and 16-17]. Another one is that I went to Salt Creek NSSA for my high school and I placed 4th in Varsity Women’s.” What you be if you weren’t pro surfer? “I think I would always have to do something around pro surfing or the beach. But besides that I think being a doctor or a physical therapist would be a really good career.” What are some of your other favorite hobbies besides surfing? “I like to run, distance mostly. I like to cook and I like to bake, actually. I used to sell cookies when I was little to fundraise for my contests and stuff. I really like to make chocolate chip cookies and throw a little cinnamon in there.”
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That’s great! Where have you traveled on money raised by selling cookies? “I went to El Salvador when I was 10, and I would go to California and I’d go outer-island, like to Maui or Kauai and the Big Island.” What do you really remember about that first international trip that’s stayed with you?
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What other languages do you speak? “I speak a little bit of Spanish and I would like to become fluent in it. I think French is a pretty cool language and I would like to learn it some day.” Where’s your favorite break on Oahu, and where’s your favorite break outside Oahu? “I grew up surfing Haleiwa, so that’s one of my favorite spots. I think my favorite break that’s not here would be Popoyo in Nicaragua. I
“Yeah, definitely. She’s so incredible, it was so impressive. She’s the youngest person ever on tour, so it really shows you can do anything if you try hard enough.” Who’s a pro surfer you really admire? “Definitely Carissa Moore. I really admire her powerful surfing and she’s so positive and such a great person.”
“It was my first time being to a third-world country, and I met a lot of cool people down there. We would go surf all day and then go eat and then surf again. It was a really great experience for a 10-yearold.”
She’s definitely an amazing role model, and being on the Pakaloha crew Paige Alms has to be an awesome influence as well.
How has traveling since such a young age helped shape you into the international pro surfer you are today?
“Yeah, I actually went over to Jaws and got to see her surf for the big wave contest. I actually got to see all the girls surf [in the 2018 Women’s Pe’ahi Challenge]. It was incredible.”
“It’s really helped me understand more things — I’ve gotten to experience people’s culture and how they do things in different places. It’s really eye-opening too because you see a lot of people who are less fortunate but they’re such happy people. It’s a really good thing to experience.”
Does big wave surfing ever cross your mind? “I like the bigger waves, like 6-8, but I see Jaws and I’m like, ‘…not happening.’ (laughs) It’s terrifying.” What is your fitness routine?
What other countries have you been to? “I’ve been to Tahiti, Nicaragua, El Salvador, and I’ve been to Mexico a couple times. I really like Mexico, but I actually think Tahiti was one of my favorite places. I went down last March for the [Papra Pro Vahine Junior Tahiti] and [Papara Pro Vahine Open Tahiti] QS. I think I finished 5th in the QS and equal 7th in Juniors. It was amazing.”
Did Caroline Marks making the tour at such a young age inspire you?
went down there last summer for the first time.” What are your goals as a surfer? “At the moment, I just really want to win a national title through NSSA or USA Champs. I’m just going to keep doing the juniors in this region for now and hopefully after I’ll do the QS and the other contests around the world.”
“I run and I surf and I eat pretty healthy food. I also go to Kid Pilegro’s ginastica class every Friday.” What always make you smile? “Just being at the beach. Watching a pretty sunrise at the beach. That’s a really great way to start the day and you really can’t go wrong from there.”
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SURF ART D R E A M S C A P E S
Taylor Slater Story and Photos by Shannon Reporting If you’ve ever walked into a shaping bay, you’ve seen the beautiful color work that tinted resin creates as it falls to the floor off the glasser’s canvas. Put that resin and paint in the hands of Kelly Slater’s talented daughter, artist and painter Taylor Slater, and you have the “Dreamscape” art series.. Now showing on the walls of the acclaimed Wyland Galleries Haleiwa, Taylor Slater’s craft portrays her unique perspective of the deep blue ocean colliding with its sandy shore. We caught up with her at the artist reception on December 8th. “My show is called ‘Dreamscapes’ because it is fueled off emotions and dreams
had one in New York in August and now this one in Haleiwa. There’s a great turn-out tonight; some friends came by and new faces, and a lot of the pieces are being bought now so it’s been great. I’m very excited!"
painting for healing, and to find positivity in my life, in order to keep my mind in a good place,” she revealed to us. “I hope when people see my paintings that it can help them to cope with whatever they’re dealing with, and to kind of find an escape through art… That’s my hope.”
Wyland Galleries Haleiwa art director, Nani Pattison, was equally as excited about the turn-out. “The vibes are awesome. I am so happy to have Taylor here. All of her art is beautiful, just like her! I’m so proud of her. She is the best.”
that I’ve had in the last few months. Usually, I paint based on photos that I take, but instead, this one is based off ideas in my head and colors I like to look at. I used acrylic paint and resin to make this series, basically pouring resin all over wood and hoping it turns out alright!” Taylor finds art to be therapeutic, using painting to quiet the mind in a healthy form of expression. “I first started
A select square piece, called Dream 25, was hanging in a separate room in the gallery. We asked Taylor to explain the process of her labor: “I start off by pouring two-parts resin and hardener. I pour them into different cups and then I mix acrylic paint in, and then start pouring and
Her excitement to show her work in Haleiwa, of all places, was palpable. “I’m so honored to be here, this is a dream come true to be showing in Hawaii. This is my favorite place ever.” In attendance were surfing icons and North Shore staples, her father included. “I’m here supporting my daughter, Taylor, and her art show. It’s her second show; she 92
painting with my hands. It’s super messy and really sticky. I chose the messiest way to paint, but that’s ok! “On Dream 25, in particular, I started with blue as the first color. Then I pour the second color and mix them together and torch it so that there are bubbles in the artwork. You can see the different textures in the piece. The white at the bottom of the piece was super last minute, when the resin was almost completely hard, but it turned out alright… Dream 25 if probably one of my favorites because I find the square format inspiring. I love the square as a perfect size to hang for a wall.” Make your way to Wyland Galleries Haleiwa to see more of Taylor Slater’s artwork.
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The Eddie Is A Go A giant Mahalo! goes out to Kamehameha Schools, OHA (Office of Hawaiian Affairs), Waimea Valley, DTL, L&L Hawaii, Salt+Air Studios, Dukes Waikiki, and Mayor Kirk Caldwell for their partnership with the Aikau Foundation to run the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational during the 2018-19 surf season. "With this new sponsorship collaboration, we celebrate Native Hawaiian ingenuity,
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innovation and identity. We look forward to educating the world about the history of the sport and its Native Hawaiian origins while paying homage to Eddie Aikau, and the importance of his sacrifice,” says Kau'i Burgess, Kamehameha Schools Director of Community and Government Relations.
Keala Kennelly First Woman To Be Invited To The Eddie Keala Kennelly has made surfing history again by being the first female athlete ever to have been invited to compete in the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. Following on the heels of her recent win at the WSL Peahi Challenge, Keala is more than ready to take the leap with some of the sport’s most honored surfers. For an alternate to Keala’s spot, two-time Peahi Challenge champion and Maui native Paige Alms will be on hand.
Michael February Signs With Vans
Seth Moniz Joins Monster Energy
South African style guru and 2018 WSL World Tour competitor Michael February signed with the Vans Global Team just before the close of 2018. “I’m very excited to be joining the Vans Global Team. The Vans lifestyle and overall vibe resonates so strongly with me.” February is known for his unique style, a smooth, almost effortless approach, and originality in wave riding.
Freshly qualified for the 2019 World Surf League Championship Tour, Hawaii’s Seth Moniz is on a tear this season. To add to his list of accomplishments, the World Tour rookie will be joining the Monster Energy family prior to the start of the new year. Congrats Seth!
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