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F R E E In Hawai’i

Brian Toth | Photo: Zak Noyle / A-Frame

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October 28-November 10, 2015 North Shore Oahu, Hawaii

Seth Moniz, Sunset Beach. Photo: Cestari

FREE PARKING

Seeing Pipeline in all of its glory and fury is not just something we look forward to every year, we damn well expect it.

And you better believe the same goes for Jamie O’Brien, along with the entire world of surf. Photo: Brent Bielmann

COVER STORY

Toth and Noyle linking up. Photo: Chris Latornic

By Zak Noyle It was early season on the North Shore. I had just moved into the RVCA house the day before, which is directly in front of Off The Wall, my favorite wave to shoot in the world. The waves in the morning were not great, but the size was there and it was just missing something to really turn on. I shot in the morning and got out, as the wind wasn’t ideal then.

I ate lunch and watched as the water emptied. The conditions were getting worse. I sat on the deck eating and watching the ocean, when suddenly everything started to click. It was getting good, really good. I grabbed my gear and rushed out. I ended up shooting solo for three hours of the best Off The Wall I saw all winter. Just the boys out surfing and no other photogs. A true dream session.

Tothy (Brian Toth) is always a standout at OTW, mainly because he is one of only a handful of surfers that go on the OTW lefts… giant peaks that are surely going to close out. At least with the rights there is a chance you can make it. He was dropping in on these giant lefts. It was crazy to watch.

A lot of times I’ll see an image in my head after seeing the conditions or waves present and I will try to create it. This is one of those moments. The view is from deep behind him, inside of the lip. There is not a lot of room for error in this critical situation. But this view is just mesmerizing.

pau

News & Events / TABLE OF CONTENTS

S H O W

R O O M

B I K I N I S , C LOT H E S & A C C E S S O R I E S

14

Free Parking

16

Cover Story

22

Publisher’s Note

24

Editor’s Note

26

Kai & Tai’s Do’s & Don’t’s of the North Shore

28

News & Events

34

Surf Art / Welzie tells all

38

Foodland Survival Guide

42

Junior Spotlight / Kaulana Apo

46

Board Story / Hawaii inspires a surf celebration

50

Feature Interview: Makua Rothman

58 Aperture

Brazilian Showroom Hawaii

THE ORIGINAL!!!

Haleiwa 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy, # E101 Haleiwa, HI 808.637.1777

Brazilian Showroom Hawaii

Kailua 629 Kailua Road, # 120 Kailua, HI 96734 808.261.3026

~ NOW AT THE NORTH SHORE MARKETPLACE ~

74

Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide

94

Community / the Eleograms’ green thumb

100

Hawaii Surf Team / bios, stats and quirky questions

106

She Rips / Haley Otto

110

Grom Report / Makana Franzmann

114

Environment / something stinks in Waikiki

118

Shaper’s Toolbox / shaping 101 with Bret Marumoto

124

Industry Notes

128

Last Look

Abi Rae Stein Photo: Zachary Ramos

Noyle

Editorial

Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Social Media Manager Keoki Saguibo Editorial Assistant Dan House Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Kim Ball, Kaimana Henry, Blake Lefkoe, Mike Miller, Zak Noyle, Bob Pearson, Tai Vandyke

Senior Contributing Photographers

Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Gonzo, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Jason Shibata, Spencer Suitt, Tai Vandyke

Contributing Photographers

John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Nick Ricca, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane Senior Account Executive Brian Lewis Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Nate Leclair FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing

Watch Board Stories on Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv

contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

Mon 2:00pm Tue 11:30am

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015

www.jambahawaii.com

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Follow JambaHawaii Please recycle this magazine, mahalo.

Since the dawn of civilization mankind has had to think big as a way of survival and surroundings. Big skies, mountains, deserts, oceans and animals. Size always mattered then as it does so now. Do the math.

For this and other popular reasons we decided to supersize one special issue per year... – This is Freesurf’s Bombucha Edition, the biggest marble of the bunch.

Big aspirations, bigger dreams, insanely large waves, huge moves and a BOMBUCHA issue in hand! Welcome to Freesurf Media and Manulele Inc. and thank you for choosing to read this annual collector’s edition.

Big stories ahead, including the man who rides the most massive waves in the world – the BEST – #1 placed WSL Big Wave Tour leader, Makuakai Rothman. Blessed with talent and rhythm, the Paumalu native continues to evolve and hold down the top spot on the elite WSL Big Wave Tour.

Another story in this edition highlights the 2015 Hawaii Junior Surf Team, who is competing at the 2015 Vissla ISA World Junior Championships this October.

Oceanside Harbor Jetty in Southern California will be ground zero for the next generation of saltwater test pilots and this prestigious World Junior Championship is one of several global surfing events that comprise the ISA – the recognized governing body to the Olympic Sports Committee.

Heff

GOING BIG Earlier this summer the Tokyo 2020 Organizing Committee short-listed eight new sports for possible inclusion in the 2020 Olympic Games in Japan. Surfing made the list. ISA’s president Fernando Aguerre commented, “This is a significant milestone for our sport and gives us further motivation and resolve to make our Olympic dream become a reality.”

Whether you are pro Olympics or not, here’s the bottomline: Duke Pahoa Kahanamoku, the “Father of Surfing” himself, was an advocate to see his favorite pastime one day be realized as an Olympic Sport. The Duke won the Olympic gold medal twice in the 100 meter freestyle in the early 1900’s. When awarded with wreathes and medals by King Gustav of Sweden, the Duke inquired with the King in person about someday vying for a medal in the sport of surfing.

There is little doubt that this humble Hawaiian helped spread the gospel of surfing.

Mahalo for the ultimate dream of a pioneer - I am cheering. Big. Mike Latronic Publisher

Surfer: Flynn Novak Photo: Heff

EDITOR’S NOTE

Can You Feel It? I blinked and summer was over. In fact, it never truly felt like summer at all this year in Hawai‘i. The longest wave lull we saw on the North Shore was only about a week, so surfers rejoiced in lesser crowded lineups and early winter swells generated by countless hurricanes and enhanced by El Niño. It was a fun and consistent summer to say the least, and now it seems we’re skipping autumn and heading straight for winter.

Which brings me to our BOMBUCHA issue…

I’m also excited to debut the Eleogram’s newest endeavor, their organic fruit farm in Hana, Maui. This month’s Community department shares the couple’s story of growing a business together, and how they’re giving back to the community in which they were both raised. I love hearing about our local surfers who strive to create better, more balanced lives that will in turn bring about greater change and social awareness. It makes me feel lucky to live and love Hawai’i.

Each year, Freesurf produces an oversized issue to welcome readers to winter. Since things are about to get really big and really exciting very soon, we figured what better way to generate some season sensationalism than to deliver our BOMBUCHA sized edition of Freesurf yet again! No one can deny that our Aperture gallery (flip to page 58 ) looks better bigger. Pipe looks that much more dominating and Maui airs that much more insane, plus the boards and beach accessories in our semi annual Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide on page 74 are fun sized too.

Another story I’m proud to share comes from my hometown of Santa Cruz, in the form of a Board Story by shaper Bob Pearson, of Pearson Arrow Surfboards. Thumb to page 46 to read about how, after resurrecting two ancient redwood surfboards that were once ridden by three Hawaiian prices, Bob fulfilled a passion project that represents what it truly means to be stoked on surfing. If you don’t have a warm and fuzzy feeling after reading this piece, then you might want to reset the emotion button.

There’s no other sport in the world where athletes relish their equipment quite like surfing, and as a true-to-our-roots surf mag, we like to celebrate this and show off top line boards from some of the industry’s best. Mix in bikinis, surf shorts and shades and you’ve got a well-rounded board and accessories guide for ultimate viewing pleasure.

To aid in your sled purchases this fall/winter, we’ve also included tips and insight from the masters themselves, plus a shaping tool breakdown with Bret Marumoto for any aspiring crafter looking to get busy in the shaping room.

Thank you for reading, thank you for supporting, thank you for spreading aloha. Oh, and welcome to winter!

Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher // Editor

KAI & TAI’S DO’S & DON’T’S OF THE NORTH SHORE If you need a little reminding about protocol on the North Shore, allow Kaimana Henry and Tai Vandyke to enlighten you.

Tai’s

DO’S

• Do respect the locals. There are a handful of local surfers that actually grew up here on the North Shore and it's good to know who they are and give them their space in the lineup.

• Do know your limits. North shore of Oahu has the best lifeguards in the world, but don't put them or yourself in unnecessary danger. Like the sign says, "if in doubt, don't go out.”

• Do BYO. Use re-usable shopping bags and water bottles. Every bit counts. It sucks to see plastic shopping bags and bottles all over the beaches, cuz that's where they end up a lot of the time.

• Do order boards from local shapers. Don't get stuck with the wrong equipment.

• Do stay stoked and stay humble. A positive attitude and good vibes will take you a long way, so spread the aloha and have fun.

Anthony Walsh knows what to do. Photo: Ivison

Kai’s

DON’T’S

• Don't drop in on anyone you can't beat up.

• Don't paddle around anyone your senior.

• Don't come in the house with sandy feet.

• Don't leave your trash.

• Don't be a kook.

• Don't drink the last beer.

• Don't leave the junk slippahs and take da good ones.

• Don't give Bobby money for beer.

Please don’t... Photo: Heff 26

NEWS & EVENTS

11TH ANNUAL KAILUA SHOREBREAK CLASSIC

By Mike Miller It was a day where Kailua’s entire surfing community turned out to cheer on over 160 keiki and celebrate the lives of Peter Miller, Jason Bogle, David Aluli, and Jeff Barbieto. Saturday, September 5th marked the 11th anniversary of the Kailua Shorebreak Classic, held at Kalama Beach Club on the windward side of Oahu. Five age divisions ranging from 3 to 16 years old battled it out under sunny skies, light wind, and epic head high Hurricane Jimena surf.

Twin Islands clothing hosts the annual surf competition in memory of the four friends who were all professional watermen and who gave back so much to the young surfers of Kailua. Peter Miller launched the first contest in honor of his best friend Jason Bogle, who died of cancer in 2005. Shortly after, during the spring of 2006, Peter and David Aluli lost their own lives, Peter in an Air Ambulance plane crash in Maui, and David to a rare mental condition. Most recently Kailua lifeguard and fireman Jeff Barbieto drowned during work while diving off the South shore of Oahu. Contest organizers Mike Miller, Sean Yano, and several other friends plan to continue running the event for decades to come.

The Shorebreak Classic is one of the largest amateur surf events in Hawai’i supported by every major surf company in the industry, including HIC, Billabong, Hurley, Quicksilver, Volcom, Vissla, Dakine, Sun Bum, and many more. Lunch was provided by the families of our lost friends as well as Whole Foods, Prima, Kailua General Store, and Jamba Juice.

Results Supergroms 6-under champion - Cameron Underwood Groms 7-9 champion - Matteus Santos Boys 10-13 champion - Casper O’neill Juniors 14-16 champion - Noah Aluli Girls 16-under champion - Riley Pardini

NEWS & EVENTS

Kekaula Campbell, triple champion. Photo: Cuda

22ND ANNUAL OLE LONGBOARD CLASSIC

By Kim Ball Kekaula Campbell was a repeat triple winner and claimed his seventh Men’s Open title at the 22nd annual Ole Longboard Classic, Saturday, August 29 at Launiupoko Park. Waves ranged from chest-high to over-head with glassy conditions for the 196 entries. Campbell, a 37-year-old Kamehameha Middle School counselor, won the Men’s Open, Ole Board division, and his 30-39 age group for the second straight year.

The Men’s Open Final was so close that the three judges each selected a different winner. Two former two-time champions, Mau Ah Hee and Eric Casco, each had first place votes. One judge had the top five separated by only nine-tenths of a point.

Campbell got the final started with a solid hang ten across the Lahaina peak. Two judges gave him an 8.5. Matt Pasamonte caught the next wave and hung ten twice and then finished by hanging his heels over the nose. One judge gave him a perfect 10. “I saw him when I was paddling back out,” Campbell said of Pasamonte’s first wave. “I saw that he was getting real busy.”

Pasamonte could never get a solid back-up ride for his second scoring wave.

Campbell, meanwhile had two more scores in the 8 plus range with stylish dropknee cutbacks and hanging ten toes over the edge. “I knew it was close,” Campbell said. “Everybody was surfing so good. The waves were nice and consistent. I felt like anybody could have won that.”

For the second straight year, Ah Hee was a triple runner-up, finishing behind Campbell in the Open and Ole divisions, and behind Kely Rodrigues in the 19-29 age group. “I just want to yell,” Ah Hee said laughing. “I really wanted it. There were waves this year. Everybody was just killing it.”

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NEWS & EVENTS / 22ND ANNUAL OLE LONGBOARD CLASSIC Sierra Lerback also killed it in winning the women’s Open and defending her Junior Women title. She blitzed the open field, scoring the three best rides of the final. “It was really fun, perfect waves, every one was long,” Lerback said. “It was so chill not like the usual crazy contest scene.” The 2014 Lahainaluna graduate was a member of the Lunas’ MIL girls surfing championship team and for the past year has been concentrating on professional longboard events in Australia.

Lerback was third at the Noosa Festival of Surfing in the women’s pro division this past March. She just returned from a surf trip to Indonesia and plans to compete in Malibu this September. “It’s a whole different scene, everyone has a hardcore mindset,” Lerback said of the pro events. “Everyone here just wants to have fun in the end.”

Three-time defending champion Mahealani Ah Hee finished a disappointing fourth. “Sierra was on point,” Ah Hee said. “I knew I had to pass the torch. But I’m happy for her.”

Kawika Kinimaka won the Junior Mens on his birthday. Ocean Macedo and Jackson Bunch won the Juniors and Menehune divisions respectively, and then teamed up to make the tandem final and place sixth.

Other winners included Ken Goring (40-49), Glen Fukushima (50-59), Mickey Ester (60 & over), and Augie Constantino and Elena Campbell (tandem).

Sierra Lerback, Junior Women & Open Women Champion.. Photo: Cuda

NORTH SHORE

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HALE’IWA STORE LOTS | 66-111 KAMEHAMEHA HWY. #902, HALEIWA, HI 96712 | BETTERHAWAII.COM These maps represent data compiled from public & private sources. Compiled from MLS as of June 2015. Every precaution was taken, yet errors may have occurred. Refer to current tax assessor maps for actual parcel location or dimensions. Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty does not warrant, guarantee or make representations on the use of this map data, or related materials in terms of completeness, accuracy reliability or otherwise. If your property is listed with another real estate broker, please disregard. It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate brokers. ©2015 Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty. Better Homes and Gardens® is a registered trademark of Meredith Corporation licensed to Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate LLC. Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. An Independently Owned and Operated Franchise. The 2015 Hawaii’s Best Award and Best of Honolulu award was awarded to Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty. Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty North Shore are affiliates of Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Advantage Realty.

SURF ART

Welzie’s Avalanche of Color

By Dan House

“The other Crow” of the Two Crows, Carl Olsen, polishes another Welzie masterpiece. Photo: Heff

New boards are flawlessly clean, buttery smooth, and unmarred by the battle scars of heavy use. They have a special way of inciting excitement and enthusiasm in their owners. Adding a splash of color via airbrush, resin tints, or paint pens can really make a board pop and give it personality.

One company that ingeniously merges board building with art is Two Crows Surfboards. Their boards are easily distinguishable by bright and charismatic resin tints and paint pen drawings. The man behind these beautiful pieces of functional art is Welzie. Freesurf picked his brain to gain insight about how he creates these works of art and where the inspiration stems.

The art on your boards is quite distinguishable and unique from other brands.

How would you describe or characterize your artistic style?

Freestyle. It originally came from improvising color work, adding color here and

34

Heff

SURF ART /

GLOW your skin Acne Acne Scarring Rashes Moles Brown Spots Laser Treatmentrs Chemical Peels Psoriasis Skin Cancer Eczema Hair Loss

there to give the boards an individual composition. Over time it grew organically to become its own distinctive style. Generally the colors are bold, bright, happy and fun.

Can you describe the technique involved in how you apply art to your boards?

Are you doing a lot of work with resin tints, paint pens, or something else?

Over the years the techniques have changed and the style has developed. We’re always looking for new ways to improve quality and craftsmanship. Resin pigments, tints and paint pens are the backbone of the toolbox, but anything you can paint with is welcome in our shop. We’re always looking for new ideas to keep it fun.

Where do you draw inspiration from in your artwork? Is there anything particular that influences you or inspires you?

Ideas and inspiration come from my daily life, cruising and having adventures with my buddies. Every day brings something new and I like to create from that.

Besides just applying art to boards are there any other art projects you have worked on?

The art has grown from the boards to the walls of galleries. It is still made just like a surfboard and goes through our shop side by side with the boards. There’s always a new project at the shop - sculptures, mannequins, screen printing… things never get boring. I also like to paint murals and doodle writing in my spare time.

What came first, love for surfing or love for art?

Art for sure. Building forts and getting in trouble for doodling on the walls was my priority until my dad pushed me into that first wave. Since then I’ve always tried to combine both into one passion. To me though, they’ve always gone hand in hand.

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Are there any other surf brands that put art on their boards that you think is cool or interesting?

I think happy accidents are the spark to creativity and kids seem to make the most mistakes. I'm always stoked to see the way young backyard board builders are approaching the traditional techniques.

How do you see your art evolving into the future? Do you try to stay true to what you’re already known for or are you experimenting with new styles, techniques, and materials?

It's always evolving, trying to make it bigger and better. We do a lot of experimenting at our shop, trying new materials and techniques that can be applied to different surfaces or structures. There is no shortage of ideas and projects. Everyday feels like the first day of school, there is so much to learn, I’m just getting started. pau

A Z U K A SH

SURVIVAL GUIDE TO: FOODLAND

EYEWEAR

l e e

F CASUAL

If you’re traveling to the North Shore this winter, chances are you’ll find yourself at Foodland whether you like it or not, since it is the only grocery store along the sevenmile stretch. You’ll quickly realize that there are rules to this rodeo, so we’ve designed a survival guide to make sure you get out alive, with all the necessities.

The aisles are especially narrow, so choosing the hand basket over the shopping cart might be wise.

Be prepared to see friends and make new ones as the entire surf world attempts to shop from one store for six weeks.

Make sure you bring your recyclable shopping bag with you. The plastic bag ban is in effect.

When parking, under no circumstances should you ever go in the “out” way… and of course, never go out the “in” way. Respect the one-way rules. (See sketch above).

Don’t feed the bums outside.

Watch for deals on fresh poke! And hold onto your MaiKa’i “product of the week” savings coupon, it just might come in handy.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is located adjacent to the Foodland Pupukea store. If you can figure out how the line works, please let us know.

Limit your stop at the Redbox home movie vending machine to 1-2 minutes, the guy behind you wants to return his DVD.

www.shakuzasurf.com

There are some good food spots within walking distance of the store. You’ll find Pupukea Grill, Sandy’s sandwiches, Elephant Thai and more, just beyond the parking lot.

Located out front of Foodland is the community bulletin board where you can find a room to rent, a new puppy or a ride to the airport.

Cholo’s

Homestyle Mexican Restaurant & Margarita Bar Coco Ho

rf Photo: Chris Latronic/Freesu

Open Everyday 9:30 am-9:30 pm Happy Hour: 4-6 pm M-F – Food & Drink Specials – North Shore Marketplace Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712

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Keoki

JUNIOR SPOTLIGHT

Kaulana Apo

By Tyler Rock and Dan House

STATS Full Name: Kaulana Jameson Apo Nickname: Lanz D.O.B: April 9, 1998 (17 years old) Hometown: Ewa Beach Sponsors: Hurley, OAM, Unknown Surfboards, Brice Surfboards, and DVS Footwear Go To Board: 5’9” squash tail Pixel model from Brice

Being a junior pro surfer can be a fully loaded proposition in this day and age of professional surfing.

Results, sponsors, expectations, and stigmas can overwhelm many young surfers. The good news is the path to success is no secret. Having a cool head, being dedicated, working hard, staying out of trouble, and having a little luck can yield dividends in the sport.

For Oahu’s Kaulana Apo, this track was set some time ago. Strong encouragement and support from his family, particularly his father, Inky, helped Kaulana get his start in surfing. When asked who he attributes his introduction to the sport to, Kaulana remarks, “My dad, for sure.” With a close father-son bond, Kaulana and Inky still surf together often o this day. “He’s surfed all his life,” the seventeen-year-old continues, “and he always wanted me to surf. My dad would take me to the beach and we would surf every day.”

40

With an early start in the sport and strong family encouragement, Kaulana found himself beginning to surf competitively. At seven years old, the Ewa Beach local picked up his first sponsor. He bounced around with a few other companies before landing solid backing with blue chip surf brand Hurley, at age ten.

Truth is, with sponsorships come expectations and pressure. “Being sponsored was just for fun the first three years, then reality hit and it became a more long term goal, rather than just having fun every day.” Today Kaulana finds a lot of motivation and inspiration as a sponsored surfer. He understands the privilege of it, and knows kids the world over are chomping at the bit to compete in events and work with top notch brands.

This motivation led to great competitive success early on, with consistent victories in NSSA Nationals. As with most athletes however, there comes a point where one

must overcome hurdles and rise above challenges. One these trials for Kaulana came in the form of back-to-back injuries. “I broke my arm one year before Nationals in the summertime. Then I broke my leg right after and was out for a while. Every Nationals prior I made finals, every year doing good. Then first year back, after my injury, I lost first round and it was like, whoa. I was 13 or 14. I was tripping out. From making it every year to finals to first round loss, it hit me. That made me want to push myself to be a better surfer and competitor.”

Kaulana has undoubtedly risen above this and developed into the better surfer and competitor he hoped to be. At 17 years old, Mr. Apo is already getting his feet wet in some WQS events. “This year I did the Bowls QS 1000. Then just went to the East Coast for Virginia Beach, which was a QS 3000. Then the Outer Banks which was a QS 1500,” all with the hopes of accumulating enough points so he can enter the HIC

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Boards must be 6’5 and under. 1 surfboard per passenger. Surfboard must be in travel bag. Discount is valued at $35. Must present advertisement to agent at time of travel to qualify for discount on board fee.

Only original ads will be accepted, no photocopied versions or digital prints will be accepted.

Pro at Sunset Beach this winter.

Kaulana also has WSL pro junior ratings, so if he doesn’t have enough points via the WQS he hopes to get in to the Triple Crown in the next few years with the two spots allocated for Hawai’i’s top junior surfers.

Kaulana’s future goals for competition are to be on the prime tour within the next five years and hopefully make it to the Championship Tour one day.

With a competitive drive, this local boy is bound for big results in the future.

“I prefer contests, it makes it that much more special when you win,” Kaulana described when asked whether he favors competition versus free surfing. However, that doesn’t mean the teen doesn’t love to travel for free surfing.

Kaulana recently had the trip a lifetime to the Mentawais with a group of good friends. “Best wave of my life, best barrel, best sessions with my friends, can’t really beat it,” the surfer explains. “Noa (Mizuno), Seth, Josh, Isaiah, Micah (Moniz), Benji Brand, Imai (deVault), Kalani (David) and uncle Tony (Moniz)... we just planned it, went to a bunch of islands. Surfing (Magazine) came along and took a

bunch of photos of us, which was cool. We always dreamt of going, so we just went.”

Kaulana believes his strengths in surfing are turns and style. Some guys ooze style and some just don’t have it, but for this Hawaiian it seems to come naturally.

“In all the surf videos Andy and Bruce guys have always been so styled out. And I don’t know, I just like style a lot. I always thought it was cool when I was grom.”

Power + style, always a recipe for success.

Kaulana has started to ‘build a house’ in his young surfing career and seems to be on a pretty good path toward success in the competitive realm. Working hard on his craft and seeking to improve competitively through mental and physical preparation, it’s only a matter of time before we see this junior in the big leagues.

Having solid backing from family and sponsors, as well as self-determination and motivation, Kaulana has a strong platform and a prime shot at professional surfing.

That all being said, Kaulana hasn’t lost sight of the real reason he surfs, and that is for the fun and love of it.

What is your favorite wave in the world right now?

Heff

JUNIOR SPOTLIGHT /

Thunders right for sure, I think. Just because it was like ten foot and perfect barrels. We scored it one day all to ourselves. We paddled out at 7am and it wasn’t really doing it, then the tide came in and it turned on. Eight to ten foot all through the day to the evening.

What do you need to work most on?

Probably just being a better contest surfer.

Staying consistent and focused in heats. Staying physically ready.

Are contests more physical or mental?

If you’re physically ready you will eventually feel better and think a lot more positive.

What contest would you want to win?

Volcom Pipe Pro or the WSL World Juniors.

If you win a big contest this year and get the fat check what is the first thing you will buy?

I’ll probably buy a car. I don’t own one yet. I’d probably save it until I get my license and buy a car.

Probably Thunders in Mentawais. Maybe Greenbush. But I don’t know, pau

BOARD STORY

PRINCES SURF OF

By Bob Pearson Photos: Jared Handler

I

started surfing in 1964 and shaping surfboards in 1966.

To date, I have shaped over 75,000 boards and have an international demand for Pearson Arrow Surfboards. Through the years I have made boards out of a variety of materials, including polyurethane and eps foam, balsa and redwood, and. have ridden almost every size, shape and style of board. From the very beginning I have always been interested in trying the old Hawaiian style olo and alaia solid wood board. It’s the only board design I had not ridden.

Over 20 years ago I heard stories of the three Ali‘i, the Royal Hawaiian Princes, surfing Santa Cruz in the 1800’s using solid redwood boards they made from the Santa Cruz Mountains. I slowly began collecting old growth redwood, with the intent of one day making recreations. About three years ago, Kim Stoner

Big Wave champion and pro surfer, Flea (Darryl Virostko) makes his way back out after a ride on a 6-foot Alaia board. Solid Redwood, shaped by Bob Pearson.

BOARD STORY /

Bob Pearson laminates the 17-foot Olo replica of Prince David's board.

and I began talking about the three Princes and their contribution and significance to the surfing world. Kim talked about wanting to write of the history and I talked about making replicas of the old style boards, maybe even getting a few of the boys together to ride them. Occasionally we met and passionately discussed our individual, yet joint projects. We knew we were on to something very special.

by quite the entourage – 40 classic woody vehicles, California Highway Patrol and a Santa Cruz Sheriff. The boards were greeted by hundreds of onlookers. Hawaiian Kumu Kaui performed the ritualistic decorating and blessing ceremony upon arrival.

As the white linen cloth was unwrapped and the boards revealed, there was complete silence in the room. You could hear a pin drop.

A few months ago, Mac Reed, a friend of ours was searching in the basement of the Bishop Museum on Oahu, Hawai‘i. There he uncovered two of the original princes’ boards. A study was made and the surfboards were verified. The precious memorabilia existed, so our Project X was started. Our team consisted of historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn for the writing, Barney Langner and myself coordinating the documentary by head videographer Mike DeGregario, and me making replica boards to display and ride. We set in motion events that will go down in history.

The experience was absolutely overwhelming. There were gasps, sighs and tears in the eyes. There were weak knees and “chicken skin.” The observers were captivated, realizing they were looking at artifacts that were as historical and sacred as King Tut’s Tomb.

The Project X team coordinated with Marla Novo (Curator of Collections) and Nina Simon (Executive Director) of Museum of Arts and History (MAH) and the Santa Cruz Surf Club Preservation Society (myself, Kim Stoner and Barney Langner are members) to bring the original boards back to Santa Cruz to display for a limited time. Our goal was to create a three-day event that would show and tell the story of the three Hawaiian Princes to the world.

These three young Princes brought The Sport of Kings - surfing - to our hometown of Santa Cruz, to California and to the Americas in the first documented surfing on the mainland. These boards represent the past, present and future of our surfing culture. We wanted to tell the world of our respect and appreciation. This is our surfing heritage. A heritage that is sacred and spiritual (mana). A heritage that is about family (‘Ohana).

To achieve this goal, on July 3, 2015, the original boards were brought to Santa Cruz via Highway 17, thru the redwoods, for the unveiling. They were escorted to the MAH 46

The significance to the surfing cultures of the world became obvious. These boards connected the ancient Hawaiian Polynesian surfing culture with present day surfers internationally. The local Santa Cruz surfing culture especially felt the direct connection. MAH’s attendance records were blown away, this event was the biggest ever. The ongoing press coverage was enormous. Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn gave a historical talk with photos, which was very informative. On July 19, we had three succeeding events that included a Surfing Exhibition, a Paddle out and a Luau.

For the Surfing Exhibition, I made 13 solid redwood replicas. The biggest was a 17’ Olo, 6” thick and weighed 240 pounds. It was the Prince Jonah Kalaniana’ole replica.

The second biggest was a 17’ Olo, 6” thick and only 210 pounds. This was the Prince David Kawananakoa replica. The other boards were various sizes of Olo’s, Alai’a’s, and Paipo’s, and all were were crafted of the era.

13 of the best surfers in the world were selected to ride the redwood recreations. In a line, each surfer stood proudly at the erected board he was going to ride. Kumu Kaui performed the lei ceremony and did a blessing as each surfer and his board was introduced. The boards were then set in the water with a final blessing and the surfers paddled out to catch waves. I was on the biggest one, so stoked, so proud. I was

BOARD STORY /

Members of the Kanaka Hekili Motorcycle Club carry Prince David's 17-foot, 240-pound Olo board a 1/4 mile down the beach to the spot where 130 years ago to the day (and hour) surfing began on the mainland.

doing something very, very special, something I have been wanting to do for a long time.

The 13 surfers began catching waves. It was difficult, but we were successful. That day was a surfer’s dream, we all were so stoked. The beach and cliffs were full of cheering people. After a few rides, we exchanged boards for a different experience on a new one and after a half hour some of the riders let their kids have a go. The families and the next generation were now involved. It’s all about the mana and the ‘Ohana. The riders included myself, Flea Virostko, Tazy Tashnick, Skindog Collins, Frosty Hesson, Noi Kaulukukui, Rich Schmidt, Josh Mohr, Zach Wormhoudt, Tyler Fox, Randy Gray, Frog Bartlett and his 7-year-old son Adam.

Left to right: Noi Kaulukukui, Richard Schmidt, Flea, Frosty, Randy Bonds, Bob Pearson, Anthony Tashnick, Ken "Skin Dog" Collins, Josh Mohr, Zach Wormhoudt, Tyler Fox, Osh Bartlett, Adam Bartlett.

One hour after the Exhibition, we scheduled the Paddleout, which celebrated the 130th Anniversary of the three Hawaiian Princes’ documented surfing of the Rivermouth to the day. The Paddleout was open to the public, and the Mayor made a proclamation that July 19 is now Three Princes Day. We all paddled out, formed a big circle, held hands, said a blessing, threw flowers and water in the air, and cheered to the three Princes.

Then it was on to the Luau. Great food, great people, great fun! Everyone talked of the overwhelming and emotional experience of the day’s events. We were all so stoked. To quote Nina Simon (MAH Executive Director), “The Princes of Surf Exhibition and Project has had an impact on me like no other. For me personally, it was life-changing.“ Respect was the word of the day. I am so proud to be part of the team that brought this project to the people. We all felt so close. Everyone was saying, “We don’t want this to end… We need to keep this going…” and we will. pau

MAKUA ROTHMAN

By Chris Latronic

North shore’s own and current WSL Big Wave Tour World Champion Makua Rothman with his magic JS / Andrus, outside his home at Backyards. Photo: Heff

“I sing, I surf, I train. I do well-being advocacy and try to be a voice for the Hawaiian people when I can. Everything I do is to help further my people and the sport of big wave surfing.”

- Makuakai Rothman when asked, “What do you do?”

Makuakai Rothman has been on the forefront of professional big wave surfing from the very beginning. Learning to surf at the age of 2 and being towed into the biggest wave in the world at the tender age of 18, these feats were only few in the culmination of achievements this bright-eyed Hawaiian would make throughout his life.

Growing up next door to Makua for a moment of my childhood, I was able to experience his life path firsthand and watch the progression of big wave world champion and musical phenom he is today.

When I first met Makua, it was all about Aloha. My family just moved into the neighborhood and Makua was the first to come over, welcome us, and

asked my brother and I if we wanted to throw around a football on our road… the rest was history.

Since those ‘hanabata’ days a whole lot has happened. Slums were replaced with million dollar lots and most of our neighbors were replaced with unfamiliar faces. Big wave surfing, once thought of as a novelty endeavor, is now in its second year as a legit world renown sport and North Shore local boy Makuakai Rothman is now its champion.

The road to triumph was hard-fought. And if it wasn’t for Makua’s focus and undeniable determination, his big wave surfing dream would be considered “unlikely.” But if anyone knows Makua, “unlikely” just won’t cut it. This Hawaiian was relentless in his pursuit.

“I think they just gave it to me to shut me up because I wouldn’t stop asking to surf in it (WSL Big Wave Tour),” says Makua. “If I didn’t ask as many times that I asked or called as many times as I called, and talked to as many different people I needed to talk to, I would not be standing here as the Big Wave World Champion today.”

They told the surfer he wasn’t experienced enough at the event surf spots. “I know they are probably kicking themselves in the ass now though,” Makua says through a smile. “But now they know who I am and what I’m capable of, all excuses aside. I went to the places I had never been before and won what they thought I couldn’t. I wasn’t supposed to be world champion or part of this tour, but here I am and I’m ready to defend it. I made a statement… Just goes to show, if you want it bad enough you can achieve it.”

Although Makua was the new comer to the WSL Big Wave Tour (BWT) he was by no means a fresh face to the scene, with his accomplishments well known throughout the surfing

“I wasn’t supposed to be a world champion or part o tour, but here I am and I’m ready to defend it.” world. Now, with a solid platform to showcase their skill, athletes can be measured and ranked accurately on a level playing field.

“Everyone was nice and very inviting. I was never really amongst the exclusive club of big wave surfers, so I kind of thought it was going to be me versus everyone. Although I was the “rookie” on tour, it never felt that way… I mean, I caught the biggest wave in 2002, I was surfing Jaws before Ian Walsh, I was towing in with Laird Hamilton and Derek Doerner at the beginning of tow-in conception. Now its back to paddling-in and here I am again.

I love how we are finally up there on the elite level of competitive surfing. We have a professional tour that we look forward to all year that we can train intently for in hopes of being crowned the world champion at the end of the year.”

Aside from dominating the field in his first year, I was also very interested in what kind of training Makua was doing and how that affected his performance during his BWT run. I was not expecting this reply.

“To tell you the truth I didn’t train much at all for the Big Wave Tour. I was so out of shape during the last event in Spain, the only reason I was in the spot was because it took me so long to paddle back out. I was so tired and my left leg was cramping up… the other guy in the final would have never got that (winning) left. I was just sitting in the channel knowing that if sat any deeper I would have probably drowned. Also in Peru, I got pounded so hard I was vomiting under the water. Not having the stamina I needed really shook me up good this year competing. This next year is much different. I’m going to come in strong. I’m on a strict training program and the next time I’m in the lead, I’m going to make sure I keep the lead.”

of this

Makua has been on the scene at Pe’ahi (Jaws) since the early 2000’s. It’s no wonder he’s still pushing the limits out there. Photo: Heff

Brent Bielmann

“...it’s next level trying to balance training and family responsibilities. But it’s all great and only makes me a stronger and better person”

With retrospect as his guide, Makua’s new training regime has him starting early everyday. But with a family that also needs his attention daily, the goings have never been tougher.

“I’ve been getting up at 5am every morning to train running, doing abs, and various exercises. But things are a lot different now. I have a son, Thor, and beautiful daughter, Nalia. So it’s next level trying to balance training and family responsibilities. But it’s all great and only makes me a stronger and better person. There’s no better blessing in the world than having children. I just want to be able to provide a wonderful life for my babies.”

As the new year approached, Makua was to be presented his BWT World Title trophy at the XXL Big Wave Awards in California, but before he could be properly awarded, a substantial swell popped up and the 2015 BWT season was on alert with wave activity headed to Chile. All energy was immediately diverted to South America and the Hawaiian big wave champ was on his way to Pichilemu, Chile in defense of his title.

“I wasn’t able to attend the XXL Big Wave Awards due to this contest. They had to actually fly somebody down to present me with my world championship trophy for the awards show.”

With the BWT World Champion trophy added to his momentum, Makua was pumped going into Chile.

And with waves not as big as predicted, surfers were able to push the progression envelope a bit more with Punta de Lobos offering various opportunities to get barreled and do turns. Makua did just that, knifing into some of the biggest backside barrels of the event. Making it to the finals, Makua would fend off the stacked field with two 8-point rides winning the first BWT event of the 2015 season. This validated his current reign and provided a jump start toward a BWT championship repeat. But although Makua was already on cloud 9, he was furthermore captivated by the Chilean lifestyle.

“Chile is a beautiful country and I wish I had more time to spend there. The food, the people, the culture, the aloha, everything. You can surf and go snowboarding in the day, catch a helicopter back and have the finest dinner at the best restaurant in Santiago.”

Travelling is one of the biggest parts of professional surfing and Makua has done a lot of it… maybe too much.

“All in all, traveling is beautiful. At 5 years old I got my passport and by 6 I was in Tahiti and I never stopped. My passport is more than full – I’ve had to get additional pages put in a few times over. It’s been a life of travel. Basically a trip to a different country every week and a half. Music in Brazil, going to Chile for surf, then going to Japan for music…

It’s been a roller coaster of fun and I’m really, really blessed to have this life.”

Heff

“I’m just a local boy having a good time on the North Shore.”

Traveling far and wide, working as a professional musician, surfer and being a father is no doubt an exceedingly large handful of responsibilities to juggle.

But when you’re Makuakai Rothman, you just have to stay positive, have fun and just go out and do everything to the best of your ability. But that doesn’t mean everything is picture perfect. Makua does have to jump over some unique hurdles that only a select few enjoy (or suffer from).

“I do have instances where my professional surfing and music life conflict. For example, I will go to Tahiti if I’m in the trials for the WSL event. But if I’m not, I will go to New York to play music with Donavan (Frankenreiter). It’s a dilemma, not a problem. I could be contemplating worse things (laughs). But when you have the choice between traveling to play music to entertain crowds or surfing perfect waves in an exotic place around the world, it’s a pretty good dilemma, I’m very blessed.”

Of course this was an easy segue to talking about the last Tahiti swell and what he thought about some of those monster rides. Makua touched on Nicco

56

From the top of the lineup, Makua takes the plunge at Pipe. Photo: Heff

Porcella’s wipeout and Keala Kennelly’s iconic waves.

Of course, Makua didn’t hold back...

Niccolo Porcella’s wipeout was a novice mistake.

“It was totally avoidable. It was the wrong spot, the wrong time. If you straighten your legs at the bottom of the wave and lean back… bad things will happen.

You put yourself in danger, then the jet ski guy is trying to rescue you in danger. That was just the worst possible spot you could be in, over the falls in the lip as it hits the flats (shakes his head). How do you even get yourself there?”

wahine, you know? It kind of looked like my brother Koa’s wave a little bit. Unlike the wipeout guy, Keala has skills. She made it to the bottom of the wave, bottom turned, pulled in, tucked into the barrel (clapping hands). Job well done Keala.”

All in all, Makua was content not being there for this one.

“I’m glad I wasn’t there. I don’t want to be there when a girl takes out all the boys (laughs). Then that guy got the worst wipeout I’ve ever seen, so I’m also very glad I wasn’t around for that either (laughs).”

Big Wave event will commence.

“I just want to be ready when the next big swell hits for these next 5-6 events on tour. Between that I’m always checking the swell maps to see where any other spots could be good. Maybe take the family on a trip somewhere to relax and have a good time. My recording studio is where I’ll be working on my second album and some new tracks that could be coming out soon. Other than that, I’m just a local boy having a good time on the North Shore.”

pau In stark contrast, Keala Kennelly was the hero of that day.

“Keala Kennelly is an animal! That’s not your average

As the 2015 Big Wave World Tour continues, all the competitors are constantly watching the swell activity around the world in deep anticipation of when the next

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Jason Frederico at his home away from home. Photo: Zak Noyle

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Kaimana Henry gives Patrick Star an aerial view of the North Shore. Photo: Daniel Russo

Grab rail. Pull in. Repeat... seems to be Nathan Florence’s plans as of late, let’s hope the trend continues. Photo: Ryan Miller / A-Frame

Greg Long and a precipitous slope of seawater.Photo: Tony Heff

Billy Kemper, flying on his heels through a Pipeline screamer.Photo: Brent Bielmann

Dylan Goodale, somewhere over the rainbow. Photo: Brent Bielmann

Maui madman, DK Walsh. Different north shore, same fearless agenda.Photo: Mike Latronic

Kai Barger, Valley Isle lien. Photo: Marc Chambers

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WHAT ARE YOU ON??

Fall / Winter 2015

Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide

By Dan House There is perhaps no other sport or activity where its participants are as excited or tuned into their equipment choice as surfing. Sure, baseball players have their favorite bat brand, shape, and wood grain, golfers tinker with their clubs or ball of choice, and Tom Brady, purportedly, adjusts the PSI in footballs to his liking regardless of NFL rules.

However, in surfing we have seemingly infinite options as to what kind of boards to ride. Boundless shapes, sizes, and materials to choose from, coupled with a full suite of competent shapers, who subscribe to their own various hypothesizes of how to design a board. This makes the art of board building exciting and never static. It can also make choosing a board a little overwhelming at times, given all options. In order to better understand a little more about the process of board building, how to order a board, and some design trends, we picked the brain of a handful of Hawai‘i’s premier craftsmen.

Shapers and their respective labels are as follows: Eric Arakawa, Hawaiian Island Creations (HIC); Chris Gallagher, Chris Gallagher Designs (CGD); Robin Johnston, RJ Surfboards; Bret Marumoto, Bret Boards; Makani McDonald, Town and Country (T&C); Glenn Pang, Town and Country (T&C); Wade Tokoro, Tokoro Surfboards; Brice Yamashita, Brice Surfboards.

Shaper extraordinaire, Wade Tokoro, getting high on his own supply. Photo: Seth Stafford.

74

Ladyslider Alaia by Ahuna

People often discuss building boards with newer higher tech or more environmentally friendly materials. However, the majority of average surfers and top pros keep riding boards with the traditional PU (polyurethane) or EPS (expanded polystyrene) and epoxy construction.

Is that because those boards lack in performance? Is the current market unwilling to pay for that type of construction? Or is it something else?

demarco surfboards

Keoki

Chris Gallagher- Seems like they haven’t found something that really mimics or betters the overall feeling and consistency of PU. Even EPS is good in some conditions and not in others. There are some new types of carbon and stringer-less stuff going on now that some of the pros really like and are saying that it feels consistent, really fast, and springy. Which to me sounds spendy for the public and probably won’t last long enough to justify the cost. Firewire has been selling a lot and the durability is great. But... the only pros that ride them get paid to do so.... With Kelly part owner now his mission is to go down all avenues of shapes and construction and see what he and his designers can come up with. Possibilities are endless really. Should be cool see what they and others come up with.

Robin Johnston- It’s difficult to get new materials out there until they get a reputation. To get the reputation, the boards need to be built, tested and then the riders respond with feedback. That can take a while (it’s much quicker when the shaper tests the new products himself). Plus the traditional materials work great as they are. There is always room for improvement however.

Glassing carbon fiber strips down the bottom of boards is a trend that seems to have reemerged a bit from the ‘90s. Is this to make the boards more durable so they can withstand the pressures of modern performance surfing? Or is it to change flex in the board in order to achieve desired performance characteristics?

Kaulana Apo / Brice

Alaia by Ahuna

Brice Surfboards

Carve

Standard Stick

Landspeed

Carveboard

6'2" x 17 1/2" x 3/4" Shaper: Brandan Ahuna The Alaia is a traditional type of surfboard made to keep you stoked in the water, handcrafted for your pleasure. Looks good on your wall and under your arm.

(808) 854-6348 www.alaiabyahuna.com ahunabrandan@gmail.com @alaiabyahuna

Shaper: Brice Yamashita Our quickest hi performance shortboard.

Relaxed entry rocker for acceleration. High tail rocker with a deep single concave for fast pocket turns with control. An outline designed for a last burst of speed at the end of your turns.

For waves ankle high to overhead.

Dealer: Clips Hawaii 822 Kaheka St. Honolulu, Hi 96814 (808) 941-6777 www.bricesurfboards.com info@bricesurfboards.com @bricesurfboards

The 43” Carveboard is our original board.

Comes with Dragon Paw tires that are adjustable air pneumatic street slicks with unparalleled grip. Deck has a double contour which kicks up in the rail and arches underneath your feet.

Decks come in red, blue, green, black and natural.

Length - 43” (109 cm) Width - 11.5” (29 cm) $350 carveusa.com

Channel Islands Surfboards

Channel Islands Surfboards

demarco surfboards

The Peregrine

Rook15

The Gash

Dane’s personal board is: 6’0 x 19 x 2 3/8 Shaper: Al Merrick Four channels fuel this all around high performance shortboard suitable for all wave types. Designed for maximum down the line speed, quick transitions, and big rail turns. The peregrine has a low entry rocker that’s accelerated through the back. The rail rocker is low but with ample break around the front fins and staged by the exit of the channels, creating extreme release near the trailing fin and off the tail.

5’11 x 18 7/8 x 2 5/16 27.0L Shaper: Al Merrick First seen on the WCT tour in 2010, the Rookie has been rediscovered by our entire CT team this year; Seabass, Kelly, Adriano, Lakey, Bianca, Sage and Kai all have won heats on the new Rookie 15. Ridden shorter and wider than the original, the Rookie 15 is the ultimate contest workhorse. Single concave throughout, the Rookie 15 works best when on rail.

Ride this board your same height to 2” longer.

Starting at $638

Starting at $705 www.cisurfboards.com Instagram: @cisurfboards Twitter: @cisurfboards Facebook: cisurfboards

www.cisurfboards.com Instagram: @cisurfboards Twitter: @cisurfboards Facebook: cisurfboards

5’9” x 19” x 2 3/8” V: 27.L Shaper: Joe DeMarco Fin Systems: Five Fin combo The Gash Model features a slightly wider outline and a more relaxed entry rocker for creating speed and flow through sections, while the increased tail rocker gives you the control to drive hard off the bottom and release clean off the top. The shorter length allows for tighter surfing in the pocket and a quicker turning radius.

(808) 220-6822 Info@demarcosurf.com www.demarcosurf.com

Rock Brent

Kamalei Alexander / Channel Islands Surfboards

Chris Gallagher- Boards usually don’t break on the bottom, it’s the deck imploding that is the usual scenario. It is definitely going to add some strength of course, but my guess would be the biggest benefit would be a stiffening of the bottom for more speed and pop. I do know that eps epoxy boards, especially, can feel amazing at first but die a quicker flex death than that of PU. Possibly makes that good feeling last longer...?

Robin Johnston- I have used carbon for both reasons. To help boards from breaking and to provide rigidity on some of my stringer-less models.

How does shaping in Hawai’i compare to other places in the world? Are there any particular advantages or disadvantages that standout to working here?

Joel Centeio / HIC Keoki

Glenn Pang- Shaping in Hawai‘i can have its advantages and disadvantages. For the shapers that shape here in Hawai‘i, we see and surf the waves all of the time.

We know how certain designs will go in the waves that we are most familiar with.

On the other hand, the disadvantage of being a local Hawai‘i shaper may be not being as familiar with waves outside of Hawai‘i unless you are traveling to different places. Hawai‘i is a unique place and we have some of the best waves in the world. Looking at what other surfers are riding from places outside of Hawai‘i always helps if you have an open mind to adapt and change.

Do you take any inspiration from outside of surfing in your board designs?

Eric Arakawa- Yes, all the time. I am constantly looking outside our industry to explore technology, engineering, and design. Over the years I’ve borrowed concepts from other fields of design and engineering. Formula 1 and aerospace engineering intrigues me. I love all kinds of art (actually most, not all).

The relationship of form and function is a constant study. I used to work with Imaikalani deVault / Kazuma

demarco surfboards

Hawaiian Island Creations

Hi-Tech

The Machine DX

RP - Round Pin

Oama

6’2” x 18 7/8” x 2 3/8” V: 28.5L Five Fin combo Shaper: Joe DeMarco

Height: 6’4” Width: 18.5” Thickness: 2.375” Volume: 27 Liters Shaper: Eric Arakawa

The first Machine model was designed in 2005, and has since been the board that sets the standard for every other board in your quiver. The one you grab when the waves are looking fun and you want to throw it on rail or blast one above the lip. Rider feedback over the years has led us to this accumulation of design, The Machine DX.

This design is a solid and proven performer in Hawaiian surf, as well as around the globe as an all-around travel board. It’s extremely fast, responsive, and provides lots of drive and stability through hard rail turns. Its ability to go from small to medium to larger surf makes it a musthave for any serious surfer’s quiver.

(808) 220-6822 Info@demarcosurf.com www.demarcosurf.com

Ridden by Joel Centeio.

5'9" x 19" x 2.45" Volume: 28L Shaper: Matt Kinoshita/ Kazuma All-around board with Vissla Bandaya boardshort print.

Available at Hi-Tech Surf Sports, Maui.

(808) 877-2111 www.surfmaui.com info@surfmaui.com @hi_tech_surf

Available at HIC’s Ala Moana, Kailua, Haleiwa, Maui Mall, Lahaina & Hilo stores. www.hicsurf.com

HYPR Hawaii

HYPR Hawaii

Kazuma Surfboards

HYPR Longboard

Malolo Fish

Jaws Mega Gun

8’0” x 21 7/8’ x 2 3/4” Also Available in 9’6”.

Shaper: Ian Foo

6’0” x 20” x 2 3/4” Shaped by Ian Foo

Deep double concaves from nose to tail with full length sharp rails. Innovative wood sandwich construction is full epoxy vacuum bagged exotic hardwood veneer high performance Fish.

Paddles easy and bigger guys can get away with a smaller board. Clear finish, naked board with nothing to hide. Available in Applewood, Red Phoenix (as shown) and Brown Cateye.

Wood blocks on nose and tail for balance and durability.

Also Available in 6’6”, 7’0”, 7’6” and 8’0” . Deep double concaves from nose to tail with full length sharp rails.

Innovative wood sandwich construction is full epoxy vacuum bagged exotic hardwood veneer high performance fish. Paddles easy and bigger guys can get away with a smaller board. Clear finish, naked board with nothing to hide.

Available in Applewood, Red Phoenix (as shown) and Brown Cateye.

Wood blocks on nose and tail for balance and durablility $ 775 to $ 875

$ 975 to $ 1100 (808) 960-4667 www.hyprnalu.com

(808) 960-4667 www.hyprnalu.com

10’6” x 20.75” x 4” Shaper: Matt Kazuma Kinoshita “Trust the board that started the Jaws paddle revolution.”

Available at: (808) 575-7510 Kazuma Surfboards Hawaii 375 W. Kuiaha Rd. #62 www.kazumasurf.com matt@kazumasurf.com And at: Hi-Tech Surf Sports Maui

Reilly Marc Chambers

Keanu Asing / Local Motion

Salomon (the giant ski and snowboard company) for several years. They have an effective methodology for developing product from concept, design, testing, and to market. I learned a lot through that relationship and ironically, through that whole experience I’ve gained an appreciation for the simplicity and intuitiveness of our industry.

Makani McDonald- Not too much. Surfboard building is unique in that it’s tough to relate it to anything else out there. Surfing is harnessing nature’s power. While I do think that math and science are useful, it can only go so far when describing the act and feel of riding a wave. Feelings can’t really be analyzed by math, science, and the like.

Kai Barger / Hi-Tech

Heff

Wade Tokoro- I try to keep an open mind on board designs and I have researched other industries such as boating and auto. We do use math, science and engineering when designing with CAD. Is the future of shaping headed towards continual incremental design improvements or do you foresee improvements in materials playing a bigger role?

Eric Arakawa- The answer is yes to both. New materials and technology will come, and when it does, it will force us to change our designs to optimize its performance.

Wade Tokoro- I believe both materials and design improvements are moving the surfboard industry forward. Although if you have a bad design with great materials you will still end up with a board that does not perform well. So I think surfboard design is more important than materials used.

There is a pretty good chunk of surfboard consumers purchasing boards

Robin Johnston / RJ Surfboards

Kazuma Surfboards

Local Motion Hawaii

Maui Built

Moi

Keanu Asing Pro Model

The King Kunta

5’8” x 19”x 2.25” 27L Shaper: Matt Kazuma Kinoshita The Moi model is designed for effortless high performance surfing.

This board is built with the highest quality materials in the Kazuma Surf Factory on Maui. $545 factory direct price Team riders: Most top surfers in Hawaii Order at matt@ kazumasurf.com or through Kazuma Surfboards at www. kazumasurf.com

5’8” x 18 1/2” x 2 1/4” Fin Setup: FCS II thruster Shaper: Wade Tokoro Tested in a range of conditions around the globe, the Keanu Asing Pro Model by Wade Tokoro is Keanu’s go to shape for both the contest grind and freesurf adventures. A full outline allows for more volume in a shorter board to aid in paddle-ability while still maintaining maneuverability. Visit the Stabl Test Center to test ride a Keanu Pro Model, pick up a used one, or order a custom.

6’2” x 18.5” x 2.375” From talking trash in the line up to happy hour at the sushi bar, The King Kunta will carve through all conditions and help you score. Maui Built exclusively at Maui Tropix Surf Co. Homegrown and Hand Crafted Surfboards on Maui since 1977. Styro Epoxy Single to Double Concave 3 fin www.mauibuilthawaii.com facebook :mauibuilthawaii instagram @mauibuilthawaii

(808) 575.7510 Kazuma Surfboards Int. 375 W. Kuiaha Rd. #62

(808) 941.7873 www.localmotionhawaii.com stabltestcenter@gmail.com @Stabl_HI Facebook | Stabl

Reid Surfboards

Reid Surfboards

RJ Surfboards

Custom Varial

FMN Model

Bread and Butter

5'10" X 18 1/2" X 2 1/4" V:25.2L Shaper: Chris Reid

5'11" X 18 1/2" X 2 5/16" V: 26.2L Shaper: Chris Reid

Shaper: Robin Johnston

Select from a collection of pre-cut Varial blanks.

All pre-cut blanks can be completed in 3 weeks!

Varial foam is lighter, stronger, and will never yellow!

Based upon the board model Owen Wright and many others used at Fiji this year. Aerialite-X glassing with Innegra Reinforcement.

$50 OFF! Your order at: Reidhawaii.com "FREESURF50"

$50 OFF! Your order at Reidhawaii.com "FREESURF50" $789

$689 Sales Manager: Lance (808) 352-5706 www.reidhawaii.com www.reidsurfboards.com chris@reidsurfboards.com Instagram: #Reidsurfboards

Sales Manager: Lance (808) 352-5706 www.reidhawaii.com www.reidsurfboards.com chris@reidsurfboards.com Instagram: #Reidsurfboards

This is a very versatile all around short board.

Drivey and responsive.

Single to double concave with medium-high rocker.

Medium rails. The Bread and Butter of your quiver.

As with all RJ models the dimensions, fin options, and tail design can be made custom to order. $420 p/u $495 epoxy Team- Maikai Burdine, Jensen Hassett, Heimana Reynolds, Luke Tema, Kelta O'Rourke, Sally Cohen, Kahi Pacarro, Luke Tema, Bullet Obra (808) 738-7873 www.rjsurf.com rjsurfboards@gmail.com Instagram @rjsurfboards Facebook rjsurfboards

Heff Brent

Vercelli / Surfboard Factory Outlet

off the rack at shops. Do you think more people could benefit from ordering custom boards tailored to their ability and the waves they surf?

Makani McDonald- Ordering a custom board gives you more of special relationship and different sense of ownership towards your board, so in that perspective, yes. On the other hand there are so many good boards to choose from off the rack. People sometimes don’t want to wait for a custom and it’s possible to find a perfectly suitable and even magic stick that way too.

Tatiana Weston-Webb / Body Glove

Reilly

Glenn Pang- For sure, customizing boards to each surfer’s specs will definitely help improve board performance for every customer. That is also where our demo board program helps, you can try a specific model and if you like the overall feel of the board, we can change certain dimensions from there to suit the customer even more.

Sometimes surfers gripe that their custom boards don’t come out how they had envisioned. How can a customer and shaper get on the same page and better understand each other when ordering a board?

Chris Gallagher- The more information you can give your shaper the better, if you find a shaper that will give you the time of day. Being honest with yourself of your ability level and the type of board that would best suit you. What type of waves you want it to work in. Are you front footed, heavy footed, etc.?

Nowadays people are getting tuned in to their cubic liters of volume, which can give you a great starting point. An old magic board is a bonus to look at.

Boards are expensive and it can be frustrating waiting four months for your custom and it’s not what you wanted and it’s dragging anchor. Sell it and move on and try again. To me that is part of the magic of surfing. Always searching for the perfect wave and the perfect board to ride on it!

Billy Kemper / T&C

Surfboard Factory Outlet

Surfboard Factory Outlet

Surfboard Factory Outlet

The Choice

Hawaiian Surf Designs

Sava

Suggested length: 8’10” to 10’0.

Suggested width: 21.5 to 22.75.

Shaper: Marcello Vercelli Bottom contour: Double barrel concave, or vee bottom through the tail, and flat through the middle, with a little vee through the nose tail.

Options: Squash, rounded pin, or swallow tail Fin option: Two plus one, tri fin, or 5 - fin.

Wave size: Small to medium surf. ability: beginner to advanced.

Starting price: $650.00

8’ x 21 3/8 x 3 1/8 Rd Pin Hybrid Shaper: George Ku Tapered rails with an inverted vee entry to a double concave vee thru the tail, or, with a single running deep inverted vee nose thru tail. FCSII or Futures w/ thruster and quads (tri-quad 5 fin set up). Hi performance in a variety of surf conditions from 3’ – 10’. Hybrid board sizes range from 5’10 to 9’+.

5' 11" x 21" x 2 3/4" Diamond tail Shaper: Power Drive Designed out of customer’s request for a board that can paddle easily into waves without loosing its highperformance abilities. The feedback of “Sava” was what we wanted to hear; it generates speed from take off and carves the face of a wave like a hot knife through butter.

(808) 543-2145 sales@surfboardfactoryoutlet.com facebook: surfboardfactoryoutlet instagram: surfboardfactoryhawaii

(808) 543-2145 sales@surfboardfactoryoutlet.com facebook: surfboardfactoryoutlet instagram: surfboardfactoryhawaii

Surfboard Factory Outlet

Surf Design Hawaii

Surftech

Talladega Knight

Surftech Revelation HD-E

Kahanamoku Sons Surfboards / Promatik 9’0” X 22” X 2 ¾” Round pin single, tri fin or 4+1 Shaper: Dan “ Ernie “ Ernest The Promatik is designed to be a user friendly board for both beginner and advanced surfers. Starting with a modern outline of 18” nose, 22” center and 14” tail it’s then customized to fit your volume and style needs. A slight concave nose blends into vee panels and spiral vee concave through the fins helps generate speed and looseness in the pocket.

6'2" x 18 1/2" x 2 5/16" Shaper: RP In the words of the legendary Ricky Bobby, "I wanna go fast!" This board was built with this fella in mind. Speed and Nascar style surfing - big drawn out turns, all day long...

(808) 936-1316 www.surfdesignhawaii.com surfdesignhawaii@gmail.com @surf_design_hawaii

(808) 543-2145 sales@surfboardfactoryoutlet.com facebook: surfboardfactoryoutlet instagram: surfboardfactoryhawaii

9’0" x 22.4” x 3” The Surftech Revelation is THE magic longboard. The perfect high performance longboard with shortboardinspired bottom couture, you'll get a fast, confident and fluid ride on every wave with the Revelation. It features a subtle concave nose, flat mid and double concave tail to create a fast, confident and fluid riding board. The unique rounded pin shape and contoured curves redefines modern longboard design and is ideal for all level riders. $699.00

(808) 543-2145 sales@surfboardfactoryoutlet.com facebook: surfboardfactoryoutlet instagram: surfboardfactoryhawaii

(855) 676-4760 www.surftech.com @surftechusa

Keoki Glenn Pang- We try to minimize all of the confusion when ordering custom boards a couple of different ways. First off we try to educate our customers by offering advice from not only myself, but also from our knowledgeable staff both here at the factory and at our retail stores. Another way is with our board demo program, where we try and fit the customer with the right board to try out at their favorite break. Try to be as honest as possible when talking with your shaper regarding your ability and what your expectations are of the board. The more information that we know of our customers, the better we can match them with the right board for their specific needs.

There are a lot of very good fins on the market for surfers to purchase.

However, many surfers don’t seem to grasp what fin shapes or materials may work for their particular board, wave, or ability. Are there any tips you can provide to our readers that will aid them in finding a good fin setup?

Makani McDonald- The best advice I can give is always start with your “go to” fin set then tune from that if needed. Also don’t be afraid to mix fin sets as well while tuning. As shapers we get good feedback with what fin sets work well with particular boards for different surfers. Don’t be afraid to inquire about fins when purchasing your board.

Brice Yamashita- A correct fin set up can help tune up and dial in a board, but never can it override significant deficiencies in a board. Work with your shaper

Rock

Robin Johnston- This perhaps could be improved on by both parties. The more the customer knows the more he can accurately convey to his shaper.

It is also important that the shaper helps educate his customer if clarity is needed about design/construction. This is where I like to take the time with my customers.

Rock

Mikey Bruneau / Varial

T & C Surf Ghost Star

5'0" to 6'6" Shaper: Glenn Pang High performance short board! Pulled in outline and constant curve for quick controlled vertical surfing. With a single to double concave with slight vee off the tail.

Made for beach, reef and point breaks with a little push behind it.

Should be ordered like your normal shortboard size.

Price starting at $455.00!

Check out our IG acct @tandcsurfboard or come by our factory in Wahiawa!

401 North Cane Street Bay A16.

(808) 621-5000 tcboards@tcsurf.com

6Sixty Drop Aloha

With all the conflict going on in this world we feel that this would be a much better place if everyone just stopped dropping bombs and started "Dropping Aloha" $25 www.6sixtyapparel.com

6Sixty Takeover

Look no further for the newest freshest local designs with our shop centrally located in waHIawa on the island of Oahu. This design says it all, "We're not here to take part, we're here to take over!" Live to the extreme, surf hard, party harder and look great living life with gear from 6Sixty Apparel! $25 www.6sixtyapparel.com

Varial Surf Technology JC Hawaii "Stingray" featuring Varial Foam 5'9" x 18.75" x 2.2" Shaper: John Carper

Shane Dorian's personal Stingray is our version of the modern fish. Short, wide, loose, and SUPER FAST. A flatter rocker and single concave is best for a more linear approach to surfing. While it's especially suited for small, flat-faced waves, the Stingray handles admirably well in juice. This board made with Varial Foam provides an extra layer of performance. Fast, light and strong - Varial Foam should be in your quiver. www.jchawaii.com info@jchawaii.com @varial_surf

Body Glove Fitted Rashguard Made from a polyester/spandex blend with nonchafe, flatlock stitching to ensure a comfortable fit each and every time. With Maximum UV protection from the sun’s harmful rays, you can surf longer without sacrificing performance.

MSRP: $24.99 www.bodyglove.com

Beach Girl Jewels Inspired from the heart and designed from dreams.

Handmade with LoVe Aloha from our Beach Girl Jewels Studio on the North Shore of Oahu! We love to create classic jewels that are filled with the spirit of Hawai’i and enhance your natural beauty. Find us at one of our lovely retail locations throughout the Hawaiian Islands, Japan & Mainland.

Use this Code for your first website order!

Bombucha2015 www.beachgirljewels.com @beachgirljewels Facebook and twitter: beachgirljewels

Heff Keoni Jones / D’Blanc

as they should know every nuance of the design in the board and help you tune in with the correct fins.

What has been getting you excited to shape lately? New designs, new materials, good customers?

Eric Arakawa- All of the above. We have some new things in the works and reviving a project that I had on the shelf for too long. It’s a fun time.

Moved By Bikes

Keoki

Chris Gallagher- The challenge of being consistent with the pros and top juniors I work with gets me motivated to really tweak out on all the details when trying to decipher the magic formula. It’s also cool when people are really grateful and amped to go surf because you made them a magic board.

Pieces of functional art that make people happy, keeps them fit, and healthy.

Pretty sick...

Robin Johnston- The waves have been so incredible this summer! We’ve had swells on all sides of the island. It’s been the best summer I can remember.

The surf has provided the fuel for stoke with Hawaii’s surfers which has affected my customers as well as myself as I am a surfer/shaper!

Makani McDonald- One of the enjoyable about shaping is that you have the ability to get creative and experiment, keeping it fresh. I have 2 new models that I’m pretty psyched on right now. The “Throwback” 2 + 1/single fin model, it’s a shortboard with a retro-twist that’s been super fun. I also have a new model called the “Thumb” that I’m having a lot of fun with and getting great feedback on. Another thing I’m really pumped on is working with some of my best friends from my grom days who are incredible surfers on some new stuff for this winter.

Summer Macedo / Honolua

Brazilian Show Room

Cheeky, scrunchy bottom with handmade crochet back one-piece bathing suit by Sky.

D’Blanc Deep 6

Depactus GUNWALE

Defined by its subtle angular details, the Deep 6 is a medium-sized glass that blurs the line between sport and fashion. Made in Italy.

• Injected Nylon Girlamid Frame • 5 Barrel Optical Quality Hinges • Base 6 European Polycarbonate Lenses • Available in Polarized Price: $100 – 150 www.dblanc.com

The Gunwale hooded windbreaker is made of a lightweight, yet ultra durable 600 mm ripstop Poly.

Designed with a half tie front closure, sealable hand pockets, removable hood, drawcord hem and mesh lining this zip front jacket provides a barrier between you and the elements.

MSRP: $95 Depactus.com

Honolua Surf Co. Waikoko Boardshort

$156.00 Find this and more at Brazilian Show Room in Haleiwa at North shore Market Place

Premier lifestyle board short, tested by Hawaii’s best waterman. Striped 21” board short with

(808) 637-1777 Or at Kailua at the Wholefoods building (808) 261-3026

pineapple print on multi stretch fabric. Zipper fly with tie closure. Back pocket with hook and loop closure and elastic key cord. $59.50 Available exclusively at Honolua stores and at honoluasurf.com

Depactus MEP.001 No bells. No whistles. No BS. These boardshorts speak for themselves. We set out to create the best boardshort ever built—this is it.

MSRP: $125 Depactus.com

Freesurf Logo Tee Represent Hawai’i’s #1 surf magazine with Freesurf’s original logo tee. Check out our variety of graphic wave shirts online, plus other apparel like mugs, travel bags and cell phone cases.

Share the sunshine, reflect the stoke. $22.50 (808) 638-7395 Freesurfmagazine.com @freesurfmag

Moved By Bikes (MBB) MBB Shortboard Racks

MBB Shortboard Racks make it easy for you to bike to the beach with your shortboard. The quick release bars allow for instant removal of the bars with just a push of a button. Simple yet stable seat post mounting. info@movedbybikes.com

Moved By Bikes (MBB) MBB Longboard Racks

MBB Longboard Racks make it easy for you to bike to the beach with your shortboard. The quick release bars allow for instant removal of the bars with just a push of a button. Simple yet stable seat post mounting. info@movedbybikes.com

Reilly Heff

Mark Healey / Depactus

Wade Tokoro- I’ve been excited on working on new shortboard models. I’m getting input from team riders to make adjustments to improve designs. I am happiest when I get positive feedback from customers who are pleased with their surfboards. Lately I have been working with the youth and that has been keeping me motivated. It’s great to see the kids improving and getting excited on surfing.

Brice Yamashita- Personally everything in surfing is exciting, and fortunately for me shaping is a part of that, I’m grateful every day for it!

Heff

Building boards takes an immense amount of skill, experience, creativity, and labor. Yet, the trade, generally, isn’t a very lucrative endeavor. Can the market be improved so that making boards is more profitable? Could board builders set up a union or something and collectively raise their prices?

Eric Arakawa- Setting up a union to get higher prices would be treading on dangerous ground with regard to anti-trust laws. We need to develop different business models, as I strongly believe the current one is critically flawed.

Bret Marumoto- Shaping surfboards is a labor of love. It takes immense dedication continuously refining your surfboard designs to be at the top. I have been shaping boards for over 32 years and know a lot of shapers who have been at this art for quite a long time. If our surfboard industry established a union it would make one collective power to set an industry standard for example in pricing which needs to happen so every worker can get the proper pay, benefits, safety, and retirement that we deserve like any other hard working craftsman who joins a union.

Koa Rothman / Quiksilver

Nectar The Durban

On The Wall Racks Horizontal & Vertical Surfboard Wall Racks

We make cool sh*t and Jamie O, Brad Domke and your local rippas rep us. Enjoy the sweet life! $25 nectarsunglasses.com info@nectarsunglasses.

The world’s best clear acrylic board racks. Horizontal and vertical wall mounts for any surfboard, SUP, skateboard, skimboard and more. Order direct for free shipping.

ONTHEWALLRACKS.COM

North Shore Soap Factory Body Butter New from Hawaiian Bath & BodyÂŽ. Deeply moisturize your sun-kissed skin with golden Body Butter. Organic coconut and jojoba oils blended with our signature Hawaiian Kukui nut oil. Shine in your natural beauty.

Available exclusively at North Shore Soap Factory. www.hawaiianbathbody.com

Pakaloha Trucker Hat Pakaloha Bikinis has a variety of hats for both ladies and gentlemen. These one-of-a-kind trucker hats are a great way to protect your face while spending countless hours in the water. Check out this and more at our shop in Haleiwa on the North Shore, and Lahaina and Paia on Maui.

(808) 661.9988 pakaloha.com info@pakaloha.com

Ola Chica Tigresa Bikini Fashionable functional surf bikinis for active women.

Designed & tested to stay on in severe ocean conditions.

Mix & match $43/piece www.olachica.com facebook:olachica instagram:olachicasc pinterest:olachica twitter@olachicasurf

Pakaloha Trucker Hat Pakaloha Bikinis has a variety of hats for both ladies and gentlemen. These one-of-a-kind trucker hats are a great way to protect your face while spending countless hours in the water. Check out this and more at our shop in Haleiwa on the North Shore, and Lahaina and Paia on Maui.

(808) 661.9988 pakaloha.com info@pakaloha.com

Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Collection

RAW ELEMENTS SUNSCREEN Plastic Free - Reusable Tin

AG47 New Wave Eddie Boardshort A key style that makes up the classic annual Quiksilver Eddie Aikau product collection.

We really care. Certified natural, Non-GMO Project approved, cruelty free, reef safe Zinc Oxide, SPF 30. It will never run or sting your eyes. Now available in plasticfree, recyclable reusable tins. Your Skin, Our Ocean, One Sunscreen.

quiksilver.com

@rawelementsusa www.rawelementsusa.com

Reilly Reiilly

Zeke Lau / Sticky Bumps

Makani McDonald- I’ve always thought this was a good idea. On the other hand everyone is looking for the “bro deal” and will sacrifice quality and experience for the best price. If you want a good board go with experienced shapers who surf and can surf. You get what you pay for.

Wade Tokoro- It does take a lot to build a good surfboard. If you take into consideration the cost of materials, labor, overhead, and expertise the price of a surfboard is very inexpensive. The profit margins are very low per surfboard and it would be nice to have a price that everyone in the manufacturing process can be compensated for what they are worth. The surfboard industry is not that big here in Hawai’i and it would be difficult to form a union.

Making boards can be a dirty and nasty endeavor, especially for sanders and glassers. Is there a way to clean up board building or make it safer?

Eric Arakawa- Yes, it’s really important to be diligent to use the appropriate safety equipment and to work safely. Safety is a top priority. We maintain high quality standards in our factory, but safety comes first and foremost. There is a cost to do it that way, but as the saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Wade Tokoro- Building surfboards can be fun, but it is a dirty job. As far as the shapers go, we are constantly around dust. When you are glassing and sanding you are around more dust and chemicals that are used to build the boards, which I’m not sure of the health consequences. At this time the best we can do

Zak Noyle / Sum Bum

Heff

Brice Yamashita- I think it’s up to the individual artist or shaper to make your profit margins in new ways. With technology these days, everyone is empowered and for that same reason competition is so fierce, no matter what industry you’re in.

Ryders Eyewear Loops

Ryders Eyewear Spitfire

SACRED Surf Hawaii Earthbird

Don’t be mistaken by their casual appearance — these are high performance glasses. Huge optically correct, shatterproof, polarized lenses with UV400 protection and a premium AR coating. Hydrophilic nose-pads keeps them in place, even in the wet. $89.99

What happens when you combine saliva and flames?

A solid pair of aviators with adjustable nose pads, spring hinges, and a Polarized lens. Obviously. With AR Coating and UV400 protection, these bad boys can take the heat. $89.99

Designed with Aloha, Sacred truckers are a fitted, artistic hat created for the active outdoor enthusiast. Mountain or ocean, you will see these sunny hats on snow or sand!

www.ryderseyewear.com @ryderseyewear fvaage@ryderseyewear.com

www.ryderseyewear.com @ryderseyewear fvaage@ryderseyewear.com

(808) 469.5274 Sacredsurf@mac.com Squareup.com/market/LehuaCreative

Scarfini Fins Surfboards fins handmade from surfers for surfers, using the world’s leading technology and materials. Works with all popular fin systems. For base construction, chose from bamboo/hemp, hydroflex or carbon.

Dealer inquiries available.

(808) 227-7519 scarfinihawaii.com scarfinifinshawaii@yahoo.com

Sun Bum Sun Bum Signature Series Sunscreen Premium Zinc Oxide Formula sunscreen, lotions, and sticks.

Trusted by Julian Wilson, Malia Manuel, Zak Noyle, Hawaiian Water Patrol, and Noa Mizuno.

Available at local surf shops. $13-$18 TrustTheBum.com

Sticky Bumps Signature Alessa Quizon Traction Show your Aloha with this pad designed by the #StickyBabe herself, Alessa Quizon.

4 Piece, 5mm Center Arch with a 26mm kick MSRP $38.50 www.stickybumps.com

Surf N Sea Haleiwa Ukulele Tenor Dragon Design Handmade by local ukulele luthier Joe Green.

Custom designs available for order. Newest collection on display at Surf N Sea for the holidays.

Come by and check them out or visit: www.haleiwaukulele.com.

Heff is minimize the exposure to the elements. The safest way we know how to build boards is to use protective gear, ventilation and common sense.

What advice would you give the average surfer who wants to better understand how board design translates to performance in the water?

Brice Yamashita- Just as surfers constantly chase that feeling of a good wave, I think shapers chase that feeling of the surfer’s joy on riding their boards. It’s also a constant moving target, so you will forever be addicted to that moment where a board clicked with a surfer, that board and feeling will at some point expire and you will be chasing that feeling once again.

Rock

Kaimana Henry / Volcom

Brice Yamashita- If you want to keep progressing your surfing to new levels, work with a shaper to systematically align your boards to the direction of your surfing goals. We are one of the only sports where you can customize your equipment so readily, so definitely take advantage of that.

What is the feeling like when you see someone get a good ride on one of your boards or get good feedback? It seems that must be a very rewarding part of your profession.

Bret Marumoto- It’s a very rewarding feeling to have a customer or close friend tell you that they rode one of their best waves, did an amazing turn, or punted a big air on one of my shapes. A lot of work goes into shaping a magic board and the rider feedback is the most productive way to progress in surfboard design.

Makani McDonald- This is THEE most rewarding of all and probably the main reason I do this. It’s all about sharing the stoke. If I can put a smile on someone’s face and have them excited about their last ride or session and pumped on their next session, I’ve done what I set out to do.

Rock

Chris Gallagher- Read up on any and every article and interview you can find to know the basics of design. Talk to your local shaper, ask a lot of questions to whomever you feel has something to offer. There are so many different types of designs out there but the principles that make all the elements of a board work together are universal.

The Medical Spa of Hawaii Face Silc Sheer SPF 40 by Noeva Silc Sheer 2.0 is a broad spectrum SPF 40. A smarter, brighter, new formulation. Complete photo protection + a spectacular cosmetic finish on contact. DNA Damage Control™ sunscreens offer protection against damaging UVA and UVB rays while significantly improving the appearance of photoaged skin. price: $45 66-590 Kamehameha Hwy. Haleiwa, Hi, 96712 (808) 721.3977 www.themedicalspaofhawaii.com

The Growing Keiki Keiki Onesie This locally made onesie is just part of the unique surf gear we offer here at The Growing Keiki. Available in white and blue, sizes 6 mo. and 12 mo. $26

Ultimate Ears UE ROLL

(808) 637-4544 66-051 Kamehameha Hwy. Haleiwa, HI 96712

UE ROLL is the powerful, pint-sized wireless Bluetooth® speaker that blasts unapologetically awesome 360-degree sound. It’s waterproof (IPX7) and designed for adventure, so dunk it, drop it, toss it, and take it everywhere. With 9-hour battery life and 65-ft wireless range it will go as hard and long as you do. And regular over-the-air speaker updates means it’s getting better all the time. $99.99 Available in 6 colors from www.UltimateEars.com See it in action: @UltimateEars, #UEROLL

Ultimate Ears UE MEGABOOM

Volcom Volcom Hawaii Block Boardshort

UE MEGABOOM is a portable wireless speaker on steroids. Blast freakishly amazing 360-degree sound with deep, heart-pounding bass–everywhere you go. It has a waterproof (IPX7) grab n’ go shape that is shockingly light–1.7 pounds; a 20hr battery; and 100ft extended wireless range. Use the UE MEGABOOM app to wirelessly update your speaker and unlock an expanding set of cool additional features and experiences.

21” outseam boardshort made from Volcom's recycled 4-way stretch fabric, also includes their patented cinch fly technology and a side zip pocket! A portion of proceeds from the Hawaii only product goes directly to the Boys and Girls Club of Hawaii!

MSRP: $60 www.volcom.com

$299.99 Available in 6 colors from www.UltimateEars.com See it inaction: @UltimateEars, #UEMEGABOOM

Meet Mr. and Mrs. Eleogram.

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Digging Deep with

O L A M A N A O R G A N I C S

BY LAUREN ROLLAND PHOTOS TONY HEFF

I

n the lush, remote town of Hana, the quiet,

country lifestyle keeps residents grounded. There are no malls, no supermarkets, and few creature comforts. Convenience is all about what you can provide for yourself. Born and raised here, surfing’s power couple, Monyca and Ola Eleogram, epitomize this. “We have such an incredible bond with the community because we all grew up together,” says Monyca, a Roxy freesurfer and model. “Everyone in Hana has known each other forever, and we’ve all participated in community things together our whole entire life.”

Hana’s best lemons.

I think one of the best things about being a surfer is the connection it gives us to nature. Many surfers are concerned about the ocean, sustainability and the global environment, so it’s not surprising to see the amount of people contributing to make a difference. Monyca and Ola are a wonderful representation of surfers making a small but important lifestyle change. This has taken form as Olamana Organics, a fruit farm on Maui’s east side that the Eleograms bought in 2013 and now call home.

Monyca and Ola both take amazing pride in their fruit farm.

They live in a humble home on the property that gets most of its electricity from solar panels, and continue to expand the farm’s yield. “Ola’s put in 100 trees since we bought the property,” says Monyca. Fruits like tangelos, Tahitian limes, lychee, longgongs, oranges, avocados, lemons, mangos, soursops, Cuban red bananas, apple bananas and rollineas can all be found growing abundantly at Olamana Organics, among many other exotic trees and plants.

Ola & Monyca spend their weekends (when home) selling seasonal organic fruits at the Upcountry Farmers Market in Kula during the fall and winter months. “We get there at 6:15am and we’re sold out by 10 o’clock, 10:30 at the latest,” says Ola. Everything they sell is grown right on their

COMMUNITY / property, which is a 5.2-acre lot in the lush valleys of Hana. “We bought the property from an older couple that built the home and planted all the trees, all organic,” Ola remarks. “All the avocados were actually from seed, they weren’t even grafted and somehow they came out amazing.”

The couple takes careful measure to make sure their crops are organic.

“We don’t do any spraying of pesticides or Roundup,” explains Ola. “Everything is mulched and sprayed with neem oils or all-organic products, if anything at all.” Olamana Organics boasts quality fruit that the people of Hana recognize and appreciate. “We put a lot of love into our stuff because the owners who had the farm before us put a lot of love into it and we wanted to keep up with that.”

Olamana Organics is also widely known for their amazing oranges, which come from trees that are nearly 30 years old. “It’s a really big spot for people in Hana to come and get their oranges, it’s been around for a really long time,” Ola describes. Aside from selling at the Upcountry Farmers Market, Ola & Monyca also provide their harvest to a restaurant and a food truck in Hana and have a fruit stand on their property, which they pack with produce in the winter months. “We try to load it for all the people around here,” Ola says, solidifying he and his wife’s motto of staying true to their local, tight-knit community roots.

Aside from providing Hana with fresh, organic fruits, the Hana couple also hands out organic eggs from their chickens. “Everyone drops off their egg cartons at our house,” explains Monyca, “and instead of throwing them away, in return we give people fresh eggs.” Eventually the couple would like to work this into their business plan, but Monyca says for right now they’re just content to stoke people out. ”We’re just happy to give and share all the amazing things we have on our farm.”

Another project the Eleograms have in the works is a rainwater catchment system, in order to cut down on the bills but more importantly, create a full circle farming business. “It’s going to be a big help collecting our own water,” Monyca explains. “We’ll use that rainwater to water our trees and everything we’re putting into the ground.” Just one more way the couple strives to live a greener lifestyle.

In response to the bigger business picture, Monyca says there is absolutely an improved business strategy for Olamana Organics. “This is our life plan for the future, being farmers,” the freesurfer describes.

“We’re growing it slowly because obviously it’s not our main thing we concentrate on right now. We need to put our efforts mostly into surfing still, but later that’s our dream.”

Ola, making it rain.

At first, farming was just a hobby for Ola, something he loved to do when not surfing. Six years ago Monyca and Ola were living on the ByrneWickey’s six-acre property that was filled with invasive trees and bushes.

“I had no sponsors at the time so I was cleaning yards for money,” says Ola. “I saw the potential to start clearing the land to plant a fruit farm.”

Growing up on the fresh fruits of Chuck Boerner’s Hana company, Ono Organic Farms, Ola began to develop his own knowledge through hands on experience. “Everything’s coming together and I’m learning more and more about farming every day,” he maintains.

Feeling motivated coming into this winter season, the Maui boy will juggle up keeping the farm along with competing in the HIC Pro (coming up this October 27th at Sunset Beach), and the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. “It’s very stressful leaving the farm to compete on the North Shore,” Ola describes. “I’m trying to stay focused for the contests, but winter is my busiest time of year for the farm. Luckily we have a one bedroom ohana that my brother Uila lives in for work exchange, so I know that the farm is in good hands whenever I leave.”

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Hank’s Busy Bees.

Avos for days.

Both Monyca and Ola talked about their connection to the land being based on their roots in Hana, and admit it’s where they prefer to spend majority of their time when on island. “We love Maui but we honestly don’t spend very much time outside of Hana,” says Monyca. “Ola has a huge family here, I have a huge family here. It’s just home for us and it’s always going to be.”

“I feel local here, I feel comfortable, I feel like I belong,” Ola adds. “And also out here, what I love about Hana is we get really good waves. Maybe it doesn’t get good all the time, but it’s never crowded.”

Monyca and Ola agree that the most fulfilling part of working and running Olamana Organics is providing their family, friends, and community with healthy, delicious food. “We know where it comes from and that it is grown right. You can feel it, you can taste it, and we are proud.” pau

Jamaican Lilikoi.

HAWAII SURF TEAM 2015

By Dan House

Last year’s gold medalists, Hawai’i Jr. World Team.

T

he International Surfing Association (ISA) is comprised of 97 member nations and claims there are 35 million surfers globally. Striking, considering the sport’s humble origins in the Hawaiian Islands only a hundred years ago. The sport’s popularity can be traced back to a single Hawaiian man, Duke Kahanamoku, who as a star Olympic gold medal swimmer, had the platform to popularize surfing throughout the world. More importantly, Duke was able to spread his message of Aloha to a global audience. Duke’s spirit has carried on in many forms, but one of the most powerful has been via the Hawaii Surf Team. As young islanders continue to win trophies and titles year-after-year, the coaches and administration are careful to pay homage to Duke’s creed by instilling humility and respect in their athletes while embodying the spirit of Aloha.

The Hawaii Surf Team is unique in that they represent a location esteemed globally for its beauty, culture, and surfing tradition. Furthermore, the team is confident, determined, and prideful, but that comes second to the teams’ overwhelming sense of inclusion, compassion, sportsmanship, and stoke. This year’s team aims to continue their success from the 2014 event in Salinas, Ecuador, where they won the gold medal overall. That year Hawai‘i surfers also claimed individual titles: Oahu’s Mahina Maeda won the Women’s Under 16 Division, Kauai’s Tatiana Weston-Web won the Women’s Under 18 Division, and Maui’s Imai deVault placed fourth in the Men’s Under 18 Division.

In 1995, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) officially recognized the ISA as the world governing authority for surfing. For years the association has been diligently working to get surfing a bid into the Olympics. Team Hawai‘i and the other surfing nations are a strong positive influence and reflect Olympic values of friendship, respect, excellence, courage, equality, determination, and inspiration. Thus, further building a compelling case for the IOC to select surfing, in 2017, for inclusion in the 2024 summer Olympics.

Below are brief profiles to give insight into the next crop of Hawaii’s junior surfers. Let us introduce you to this season’s Hawaii Surf Team.

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BOYS U18 SETH MONIZ Age: 18 Hometown: Honolulu, Oahu Home break: Kewalos Basin School/year: CEI 2015 graduate Sponsors: Billabong, Tokoro Surfboards, DVS, FCS, and Vertra Top competitive highlight: Open Men's National title.

Do you know how to shake it like a Polaroid picture? No, but I can learn it on YouTube.

At what age is a person no longer considered a grom? There is always someone older than you that will always call you a grom. It never ends.

IMAIKALANI DEVAULT Age: 17 Hometown: Makawao, Maui Home break: Ho‘okipa School: Kamehameha schools c/o 2015 Sponsors: Volcom, Spy, Globe, Nixon, Kazuma Surfboards, Vertra, Dakine, Body Glove, Hi-Tech Top competitive highlights: 4th Place ISA World Juniors U18, 4th place Pipe Pro Jr, 4th Place Open Juniors NSSA Nationals, State Champion Would you rather have your own yacht or a private jet? Private jet.

Your favorite Instagram feed? @kook_slams

NOA PATRICK KAIULUOKEALAULA MIZUNO Age: 16 Hometown: Kuli'ou'ou, Oahu Home break: Kewalo Basin School/year: Punahou School, c/o 2017 Sponsors: Quiksilver, Oakley, Sun Bum, Dakine Top competitive highlight: 5th at 2014 ISA World Juniors in Ecuador If you had to spend one million dollars in a day how would you spend it? Invest in something so I can turn that million into more.

What was your all-time favorite Halloween costume? A human hotdog.

ELIJAH GATES Age: 18 Hometown: Makakilo, Oahu Home break: Barbers point School/year: graduated from Keystone Sponsors: Hurley, On A Mission, Zinka, Ronin Eyewear, Quality Surfboards Hawaii Surf Shop, Futures Fins, Power Drive Surfboards Top competitive highlight: 1st place Explorer Men's at NSSA Nationals What would you do without your phone for a day? Surf all day!

How do you cure hiccups? Hold my breath and count from 10.

BOYS U16 BARRON MAMIYA Age: 15 Hometown: Haleiwa, Oahu Home break: Pipeline School/year: HTA 2018 Sponsors: Hurley, Channel Islands Surfboards, Smith Optic, Woodward Top competitive highlight: The reheat with Finn.

Are aliens real? Yes Can you lick your own elbow? No

CODY YOUNG Age: 16 Hometown: North Shore, Maui Home break: Ho'okipa School/year: King Kekaulike Class of 2017 Sponsors: Quiksilver, Arnette, Kazuma Surfboards, Mokulele Airlines, Dakine, Hi-Tech, Surface, Ello Top competitive highlight: Winning team gold at Worlds last year.

Would you rather have a diamond or gold plated grill? All gold everything.

If there was a zombie apocalypse what would you do? Lock all the doors and live in Costco.

FINN MCGILL Age: 15 Hometown: Haleiwa, Oahu Home break:Rocky Point School/year: Waialua High school/sophomore Sponsors: Billabong, Electric, T&C surfboards, Banzai Bowls, Future Fins, Creatures of Leisure, The Young and The Brave Top competitive highlight: 3 NSSA National titles What do you want for your birthday? A unicorn named Pako.

If an alien came into your room and invited you to their planet would you go? Most definitely and bring Pako.

LOGAN BEDIAMOL Age: 15 Hometown: Haiku, Maui Home break: Hookipa School/year: King Kekaulike/Sophmore Sponsors: Hurley, Dakine, Avasol, and Minami Surfboards Top competitive highlight: NSSA Nationals Final Favorite superhero and why? My mom, she can do anything.

What was your first detention for? Surfing before school and missing first period.

GIRLS U18 MAHINA MAEDA Age: 17 years old Hometown: Haleiwa, Oahu Home break: Sunset School/year: Hawaii Tech Academy class of 2015 Sponsors: Hurley, Pyzel Surfboards, Samudra Bali Biru, Yumeya, Kenko, Sex Wax, Boardsticks, Cobian Footwear Top competitive highlight: QS in China If you could be any other person for a day who would it be and why? Yonce so I can be Flawless...

If you could only choose between rollerblades or a razor scooter for transportation what would you choose and why?

Rollerblades because I would kill it of course. Because my footwork would be perfect for roller blades.

KAHANU DELOVIO Age: 17 Hometown: Kailua Kona, Big Island Home break: Banyans School/year: James Madison High School, Senior Sponsors: Boobie Shack, Mokulele Airlines, Sticky Bumps, Crush sunglasses, HIC, Rawson, Hawaiian Pro Designs.

Top competitive highlight: 2nd in the Volcom global Totally Crustaceous tour this year.

What was the best airplane meal you ever had? Airplane food isn't appealing to me.

What celebrity would you want to go to prom with? Well, I did some research and it's between Ed Westwick and Zac Efron...

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Join Freesurf at Waimea Valley for an inaugural launch party and ongoing Freesurf Festival each month. A family-friendly community event geared toward the surf and beach industry, Freesurf welcomes local residents and visitors island-wide to the beautiful venue of The Valley.

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GIRLS U16

BRISA HENNESSEY

SUMMER MACEDO

Age: 16 Hometown: Kailua, Oahu Home break: Kewalos and Ala Moana Bowls School/Year: Alpha Omega Academy, 10th Grade Sponsors: Rip Curl, Makani Shapes, T&C, Smith Optics, Charming Shark, Futures, Tonic, Vertra, Ricante, BoardStix, Dakine, Kalapawai Market Top Competitive highlight: Winning my heat in a QS6000 with a 3.0 and a 0.5 Would you rather have a maid or a personal chef? Hands down a personal chef. My other passion besides surfing is cooking... and eating, so I will learn all the secrets from my personal chef while they make me delicious food.

What is your favorite One Direction song? Run in the other direction.

Age: 14 Hometown: Lahaina, Maui Home break: Lahaina Harbor or Honolua Bay School/year: Myron B. Thompson Academy / Sophomore Sponsors: Bulkley Surfboards, Mokulele Airlines, and Maui Jim Sunglasses Top competitive highlight: HSA Legends of the Bay, we scored perfect solid 6 ft.

(Hawaiian) Honolua Bay with 3 other people.

Favorite word or saying? "You're eggy."

What’s the best way to heat a hotdog? Cut it up and mix it with eggs, potatoes and cheese = breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

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SHE RIPS /

HALEY OTTO

DOB: 5/11/04 Hometown: Waikiki Home break: Queens beach School/Grade: Seeqs (School for Examining Essential Questions of Sustainability) 6th grade Sponsors: Moku Hawaii, Puka Surf Co., Onit Pro, Sun Bum Favorite Wave: Queens Favorite Board: My 9’0” Two Crows longboard Favorite pre session song: “It’s Going Down for Real” by Flo Rida Favorite post session meal: Acai bowls or Lilikoi

Eleven-year-old Haley Otto shines in the Queens lineup. Freesurf has noticed both her talent and spirit in the water, not to mention that brilliant blonde hair catches the Hawai‘i sunlight too. A Waikiki local, the preteen has only been surfing for a few years, but already cross steps and nose rides with a classic, graceful style. Competing in local longboard events like the China Uemura Wahine Classic this past June and Duke’s OceanFest in August, Haley is on a progressive path and will likely catch more speed this winter.

Since surfing is the only thing on this wahine’s mind, Freesurf decided to get personal and learn more about this up-and-coming surfer girl. Check out this month’s She Rips interview with Ms. Haley Otto.

Tell us about your first wave memory.

My first wave was at Baby Queens when I was eight years old. My dad’s friend let me try an old shortboard he kept on his lanai. I stood up on the second wave and have been stoked ever since!

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Best competitive achievement?

My best competitive achievement would have to be winning the 2015 T&C Grom Contest. The waves were pretty small and inconsistent that day. In my final, I was the only one who stayed out at Queens. The rest of the girls came in and caught little waves at Babys. I followed my heart and caught a couple good ones that put me in first.

Best free surfing experience?

One day after school when the conditions were perfect and the water was glassy.

I scored lots of hang tens that day!

Who are your biggest competitors?

My mind is my biggest competitor right now. I am learning to mentally block everything and everyone out during a contest and just focus on finding the right waves.

Who do you love to surf with most?

I love to free surf with my friends because it’s just super fun and we encourage each other. I have learned a lot from them.

Weaver

Heff

SHE RIPS /

Your all-time favorite surfer is…

Honolua Blomfield and Vanina Walsh are my favorite female surfers because they are both very humble and they both rip! My favorite male surfer is Arthur “TOOTS” Anchinges because he has an amazing classic longboard style.

Biggest inspiration?

My biggest inspirations are my Mom and Dad. They support me and inspire me to follow my dreams.

Have you ever gone on a surf trip?

I have not gone on a surf trip yet. My dream is to travel to Malibu and surf the California coast.

Your other hobbies include…

School and surfing, surfing, and more surfing.

Your near future surf goal is...

To place in the Longboard division in the upcoming North Shore Menehune Contest.

Your ultimate surf goal is…

My ultimate goal is to travel the world competing.

Describe your surfing style with 5 words: Classic, graceful, smooth, steady, and clean Best part about living and surfing in Hawai’i?

The temperature and there are always waves somewhere!

Last words for the Freesurf audience… #staystoked

pau

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MAKANA FRANZMANN

By Chris Latronic

At the tender age of 11 years old, Makana Franzmann already has a resume that rivals most veteran athletes. Becoming a traveling skateboarder before he was 8, Makana was well on his way to action sports success. Now living beachfront at Rocky Point on the North Shore, he and his brother Dylan have one of the best surf spots in the world as their backyard to practice in.

Favorite skateboarder - Raven Tershy and Grant Taylor because they’re super gnarly and commit to everything, they’re super sick.

Favorite music - Gangsta Rap like N.W.A, Straight Outta Compton. It’s good.

Hobbies - Spearfishing and skateboarding. I used to play with airsoft guns but my brother Dylan shot me up with a bunch of bb’s so that kinda ruined it for me.

With skate skills translating to progressive surf skills, this little sprite is turning heads with fresh moves daily. And with a recent NSSA national title added to his name, Makana’s young achievements are on par for certain greatness. Keep an eye out for this grom.

Favorite Surf Spot?

Age - 11 years old (6th grade) Height - 4’9” Weight - 70 lbs Board size - 4’10” Sponsors - RVCA, Xcel Wetsuits, Famous Surf, T&C Surf, Dragon Alliance, Mokulele Airlines Hometown - Rocky Point, North Shore, Oahu School - HTA, Hawaii Tech Academy. It’s mostly a home school program with a class once a week in Waikele. It’s cool because we get to surf a lot more. You could do a lot of work in a just a few days and then have most of the week free to surf.

Favorite subject - Science. Experiments are cool!

Favorite foods - Cheeseburger, steak & rice Favorite dessert - Haagendaz ice cream, caramel kine Favorite movie - Austin Powers: Gold Member Favorite surfer - John John Florence. He just has it all, barrels, turns and big airs. I just enjoy watching him surf.

Favorite female surfer - Carissa Moore for her big man-hacks.

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Rocky point is by far my favorite spot. It’s a great right and left. The right, you can get really barreled, do a big turn or cutback and kick out before you hit the death rock.

The left is super long and is hollow at the beginning. You can pull in or go for a big hit and it just keeps going and you can do a ton of hits with a nice oncoming air section at the end.

Tell us about when you first started surfing Rockys.

I started surfing Rocky Point when I was 6 years old on a 3ft day. We were on the lefts near the channel and my dad would push me on the little ones. I was really afraid of the reef because at that time I’d only surf sandbars. But ever since we moved here I’ve been surfing reef breaks everyday and now I love them.

Your next favorite hobby is skateboard…

I’m definitely not as into skateboarding as much as when I was 8 years old. I used to travel all across the United States doing skate contests, I won a couple… But now I just go to the Banzai (skatepark) almost everyday. Usually in the evenings because it has been so hot lately. It’s cruise, lots of groms, it’s fun.

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Do you feel you have benefitted from skateboarding?

Yes, most of my air game is from skateboarding. All those grabs and trying different air tricks has definitely helped me. This last Lahaina Harbor contest, I did some airs in my heats and got some high scores, made some heats.

Who inspires you?

Kelly Slater, John John Florence, Gabriel Medina, Raven Tershy, Grant Taylor, and my Dad. What’s your relationship like with your brother Dylan Franzmann, fellow up-andcoming grom?

My brother Dylan is a very stylish surfer who charges with a lot of power. I think we fight way too much (like brothers do). We surf a lot together but don’t talk to each other a lot in the lineup. We just try to catch as many of the best waves then talk about them after. He does help push my surfing to be better. He pushes me to do more rail turns and surf bigger waves, while I push him to do more airs.

What’s your main focus now?

Surfing and surfing competitions. I just got back from a Lahaina comp on Maui and now I’m getting ready to go back there tomorrow for another one.

Biggest accomplishment?

Winning the NSSA Nationals in Huntington Beach. Surfing Huntington is super difficult, I had to sit on this one kid during my first heat just to make it through. After that it went pretty smooth, I got at least two 7’s each heat up to the finals. The waves

Chris latronic

GROM REPORT /

during the final were really bad. This one kid had the lead with two 4’s until the :30 sec mark, when I got this wave, did a few backside hacks and got just enough to take the lead and the win. I was so stoked!

Where have you traveled to for surfing?

I just recently went to Bali. I go to California every year for the summer surf contests.

I’ve been to El Salvador three times, that was fun. I go to the outer islands a lot, my Mokulele Airlines sponsor helps me out with that a bunch.

What are some of your future travel plans?

Next summer I’m planning to go to Nicaragua and the Gold Coast of Australia. Other than that, try to win another national title as well as do good in whatever contest I’m in.

Goals for the future?

I really want to make the WSL world tour and maybe win a world championship… Pipe Masters would be cool too.

pau

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THE SEWAGE DILEMMA

By Blake Lefkoe

It is no secret that Oahu is home to some of the world’s best waves- each year, hordes of surfers from every corner of the globe flock to the island to take advantage of its golden sand, legendary surf spots, lush mountains, famous historical sites, world-class shopping and five-star beach front resorts.

With such attractions it is no surprise that Oahu hosts 4.5 million visitors a year and close to a million additional people who choose to call this island home.

Last month many of these tourists and residents alike were disappointed to find out that the worldrenowned Waikiki Beach and its surrounding surf spots were closed due to a massive sewage spill. Tropical storm Kilo caused heavy rains that flooded many of the Honolulu streets. With nowhere else to go, the water ended up in our antiquated sewage system. Ordinarily, this might not have been a huge issue, but one of the two main pumping stations in Honolulu was shut down at the time, and as a result, 500,000 gallons of sewage flooded straight out into the ocean.

Newspapers reported that the Keawe Street wastewater pumping station was closed due to maintenance issues, but it appears as though it was actually down because of a scheduled upgrade. With Kilo nearby and statewide flash-flood warnings in effect, why was this “maintenance” not postponed? In addition, if there was a spill of that magnitude because of predicted heavy rain, what would have happened if the storm had actually hit?

Unfortunately, this is not the first time something like this has happened in Honolulu. The most major event in recent history took place in 2006, when a 42-inch sewage pipe in Waikiki ruptured and 48 million gallons of raw sewage had to be pumped directly into the Ala Wai Canal. All of that toxic, filthy water flowed right into the soon to be non-existent line-up at Ala Moana Bowls. Beaches were closed and warning signs posted, but a few diehard surfers paddled out anyway. Most of them ended up in the hospital. In addition, a 34-year-old man suffered an even worse fate after falling into the Ala Wai Harbor. He contracted multiple strains of flesheating bacteria and doctors amputated his leg in an attempt to stop the spread of infection. He died from septic shock, which caused organ failure, soon afterwards.

Never seen the waters of Waikiki so empty? It's not photoshop. Heavy rain in September sent 50 million gallons of sewage into the pacific, closing beaches to the public.

Heff

ENVIRONMENT /

reduce discharges of 3 million pounds of total suspended solids and 30 million pounds of biological oxygen demand annually.”

This horrific sewage spill made national headlines and eventually resulted in the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issuing a consent decree. But there are smaller sewage spills - many of which don’t even make local headlines - that happen regularly. Last month, when every major newspaper in America was writing about the closure of Hawai’i’s “Iconic Waikiki Beach,” most Oahu residents weren’t even aware that there were two other sewage spills that took place the same day, and an additional four the next.

Kaneohe Bay, from Lilipuna Place to the Kaneohe Yacht Club, was closed because almost 5,000 gallons of wastewater entered Kawa stream and ended up in the bay. People were advised not to go in the water from Halona Blow Hole to Erma’s Beach, in the Sandy’s Beach Park area, after a million gallons of treated, but un-disinfected wastewater was released into the ocean. Residents were warned to stay out of the ocean near Hickam Beach when 24,000 gallons of wastewater was discharged and half of it entered a storm drain and flowed out into the ocean. In addition, upwards of 180,000 gallons of partially disinfected wastewater ended up in Wahiawa’s Lake Wilson and 125,000 gallons of wastewater discharge entered Nuupia Pond in Kailua.

Before you start to panic - thoughts of sewage infiltrating your beloved surf breaks begin filling your head - know that something is being done, albeit slowly. In 2010 the EPA reached a settlement with the City and County of Honolulu. Their summary of Hawai’i violations stated that, “Honolulu has illegal sanitary sewer overflows throughout the city's collection system and effluent violations from its two largest wastewater treatment plants… (these) overflows have caused millions of gallons of untreated sewage to be discharged into waters of the United States.” As a result, they fined the city $1.6 million and mandated that it address sanitary sewer overflows and upgrade its two largest treatment plants to secondary treatment facilities. Hawai’i is one of the only metropolitan cities in the U.S. that does not have secondary treatment of sewage.

In an effort to stop further sewage spills, the settlement called for the repair and improvements of Honolulu’s dilapidated sewer collection system as well as the implementation of an upgraded maintenance and cleaning program by 2024. In addition, it stated that the upgrades of the main treatment facilities be finished by 2034. Lori Kahikina, Director of the Department of Environmental Services, says, “We are in our fifth year of the federal consent decree and have met every milestone in it to date.”

The EPA believes these changes will “prevent millions of gallons of untreated sewage from being discharged from its sewer system… (and) By increasing its treatment levels to secondary treatment the City will 116

That’s the good news.

The bad news is that fixing something as decrepit and extensive as our island wide wastewater treatment system - that serves an excess of a million people daily - is not easy or cheap. The City initially estimated that the cost of the injunctive relief for the collection system would be approximately $3.5 billion and the installation of a secondary treatment system would be over $1.5 billion. The first five years of the project have proved that the actual costs will be much, much higher.

In order to help pay for these upgrades and their maintenance, residential sewer fees have been steadily increasing. On July 1, 2014 they rose four percent and this past July they went up an additional five. This is the fifth consecutive year locals have seen a rise in their rates, and the trend is expected to continue. Currently, the monthly base fee is $71.81 and the volume charge is $4.29 per 1,000 gallons.

For some, this is a small price to pay to keep the ocean from becoming an extension of our sewer system, but many Oahu residents live hand to mouth and can barely keep up with the escalating living costs of the island as it is. If the City and County of Honolulu needs additional money to pay for improvements and upgrades, how much financial responsibility should developers have when they build structures that will house thousands of people whose waste will go into our already overly capacitated system? If homeowners’ sewage fees are growing this rapidly, what kind of increases are developers looking at?

Kahikina explains how “the developer of any major project, whether it be a new sub-division or a 40-story high rise, may have to provide improvements to the wastewater system, to include upsized or additional piping and pumping stations, to handle this new flow in order to receive the city’s approval to proceed. Each project pays a Wastewater System Facility Charge, which may be offset by contributed improvements, to contribute to the cost of additional system capacity.”

Every new project proposed by developers has to be reviewed and approved (or denied) by the Department of Planning and Permitting (DPP). The Wastewater Branch of the DPP assesses the estimated impacts to

the already existing sewage facilities and gives permits accordingly. It is also their job to enforce regulations and make sure developers are doing what they are supposed to when it comes to any sort of sewage issue.

These days, they have their hands full.

Oahu has a yearly growth rate of 1.12% and an average of 4.5 million people who visit the island annually. That is a lot of people and, sorry to be lewd, an incredible amount of poop. New buildings go up all of the time, ag land continues to be turned into sub-divisions and the bureau of tourism continues to promote Oahu as one of the top tourist destinations in the world. New residents and additional tourists means more infrastructure and yes, you guessed it, more poop. Kakaako already smells like sewage and there are an estimated 5,000 new apartments in the dozens of developments that are going up as we speak. Residents in the area are concerned, and they have every right to be; 2034 is a long way out.

Although it isn’t going to happen overnight, thanks to the EPA’s intervention, Oahu’s deteriorating sewage system is being fixed and upgraded. Kahikina notes that 63 miles of the worst pipes have been rehabilitated, less and less fresh water is entering the system each year and there has already been a downward trend in the number of both wet and dry weather sewage spills.

Although this is a costly process, developers are being forced to do their part and hikes in residential sewage fees are requiring homeowners to contribute as well.

Hopefully, these changes will keep oceans and wildlife safe, beaches open and barrels blue.

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SHAPER'S TOOLBOX

WITH BRET MARUMOTO If you’re an aspiring board builder or simply interested in the tools used for shaping boards, check out Bret Marumoto’s break down of the basic tools from inside his shop. Learn more about the process of how a board is created and which items are imperative in a shaper’s toolbox.

Belt Sander

Sanding Screens

Surform Saw

Center Line Steel Ruler

Tail Templates

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PLANER These are really vital to have, it helps you kick down the thickness of the surfboard, do the rails, put the rocker in, etc. Your most accurate fine-tuning is going to be with this machine. It’s definitely one of my favorite tools to use.

CENTER LINE RULER AND 12-FOOT MEASURING TAPE These are important for getting your dimensions in the tail and nose centered. You need to have this stuff if you want to get your outline accurate.

SPOKESHAVE This works good on the tip of the nose for cleaning it up, especially the stringer, the wood part of the board.

BLOCK PLANE This is something I use all the time right at the end when I want to clean up the stringer. It’s one of my favorite tools.

120

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SHAPER'S TOOLBOX WITH BRET MARUMOTO

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SHAPER'S TOOLBOX WITH BRET MARUMOTO

SURFORM This is something you’re going to use after you plane the board to clean up the foam and some of the rough spots. When you start fine-tuning your board, this is the first tool you’re going to go to. It’s like a file. It’s really important too when you’re starting to get into the shape on your board because it helps remove a lot of foam really quick, it’s a smaller tool, almost like having a planer but it’s a file. It’s really nice when you want to work the outline of the board, or when you want to do concave and things like that. It’s a must.

SANDING BLOCK

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As you start to get closer to the finish of your board, you’re going to need to have sanding blocks, and you want to have something like 60 grit sandpaper. It’s something that’s going to help take down the rough marks from the planing and surform and start to give you a smoother finish. If you work through your board with this, the next tool is going to be your sanding screen.

SANDING SCREEN This is what you’re going to pull on the rails of the surfboard. It’s actually what they use on dry wall but it works really, really well on surfboard foam.

TAIL TEMPLATES It’s really important to have tail templates, whether it’ a round pin, a squash tail, a swallow tail, etc. you start out with your basic template that has a tail and a nose. I have tons of them from all the magic boards I’ve shaped or my friends have had, it’s something I’m always adding to the collection and I have quite a few.

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INDUSTRY NOTES

WSL is super excited to announce that starting next year Tahiti and Fiji will join Hawai‘i to

comprise the new WSL Polynesia region. This means that any WSL qualifying events that

run in those areas will count towards WSL Polynesia regional ranking points. While it is still

in the early stages, WSL is working with organizations in those areas to develop their regional offering, as well as our offering here in Hawai‘i.

Quiksilver has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. The filing is only for the American division of the brand while the European and Asian-Pacific divisions of the company remain strong. The brand will continue with operations during the bankruptcy process. Quiksilver CEO Pierre

Agness stated that, “With the protections afforded by the Bankruptcy Code and the financing

provided by Oaktree, we will not only be able to satisfy our ongoing obligations to customers, vendors and employees, but we will also have the flexibility needed to complete the turnaround of our U.S. operations and re-establish Quiksilver as the leader in the action sports Brent

industry. Our fresh capital structure, with a very low level of debt for our industry, will enable us to invest in and reinvigorate our brands and products. We are confident we will emerge a stronger business, better positioned to grow and prosper into the future.”

North Shore Oahu’s Fred Patacchia

announced his retirement from WCT competition at the Hurley Pro at

Trestles. The announcement came in spectacular fashion after he absolutely smashed his round 1 heat. During the heat, Fred was sitting on a solid score of an 8.90 and then dropped an absolute hammer belting a right-

hander with some fierce back hand slams; resulting in a score of a perfect 10. After the score was announced, Fred promptly came to the beach and was greeted by family and friends. Fred thanked his family, friends, sponsors, shapers, and the surfing community as a whole for their support during his surfing career. Fred isn’t hanging up the competition jersey just yet. He says he still wants to compete in the Triple Crown and in some prime events. Hopefully we will see him in this year’s Pipe Masters too.

Surftech and Donald Takayama fans should be excited. Surftech has entered into a long-

term partnership with the estate of the late Donald Takayama to produce Donald Takayama Hawaiian Pro Design boards. In 2016, Surftech will bring to market some of Donald’s most iconic shapes along with some newer models. Diane Takayama commented, “Donald had

always believed in Surftech and their technology. The consistent quality of the boards paired with durability made it a perfect combination for surfers around the world. We are very happy to be able to re-launch this partnership and look forward to a great future together.” The new boards will debut in January at Surf Expo.

Kauai’s Bethany Hamilton has a new sponsor, healthy and active lifestyle and juice company, Jamba Juice. “The main reason I chose to partner with Jamba is their commitment in

76-6246 Ali`i Dr. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740 (808) 326-1771 David Kelly- Team Science. Photo : Martynas Justinevicious / Glidephotos

INDUSTRY NOTES providing healthy, nutritional, as well as

serve freshly made gelato in “home” baked cones along with gelato in spectacular

delicious food and drink alternatives,”

coppas (Italian sundaes) presented as spaghetti gelato. They also offer Italian coffee

said Hamilton. “For my active lifestyle and

specialties, smoothies, Acai and Pitaya Bowls, Belgian Waffles and more. The new

professional career, Jamba Juice is an

location has ample parking and both inside and outside seating.

enjoyable on-the-go food stop.” “Bethany not only embodies the healthy and active lifestyle that our brand represents but she is an inspiration to thousands of people,” said Donna Yano, VP of Jamba Juice

Hawaii. “This partnership is truly a winwin situation as both Jamba and Bethany continually encourage people to better themselves in all aspects of their lives.” Hilo’s MLB star Kolten Wong is already an

ambassador for Jamba Juice and adding Bethany helps elevate the brand’s presence in the islands.

Sanuk’s brand ambassador, Donavon Frankenreiter, released a new music video

titled “Big Wave.” It is the first music video from his album The Heart. Footage from the video was shot last spring in studio. Donavon and Sanuk had an original idea to

record, track and perfect a brand new, full length album live in front of the world and their community of fans. They created an interactive digital music experience, live

webcast, and behind-the-scenes look into the creative process. During recording fans

Electric just released a sunglass designed with Kelly Slater. The glass is dubbed the

Outline and is comprised of materials that greatly reduce the environmental impact and carbon imprint during production. The frame is made of a plant-based polymer that significantly reduces CO2 emissions during construction. Packaging is 100%

recyclable and comes from post-consumer paper and includes a bamboo sunglass pouch.

Kauai’s Koa Smith and Danny

Fuller collaborated with fashion

designer Alexander Wang in support DoSomething. Alexander Wang is

celebrating the ten year anniversary of his self-titled brand by launching a campaign that will raise money of DoSomething, which is a global organization for young people and social change. Alexander

logged on, tuned in and chatted with the band. Donavon’s sponsors, Sanuk, Martin

Wang and fashion photographer Steven Klein enlisted the help of 38 celebrities for

during the process too. Check out the video as it shows the creativity brought to life

Surfers Koa Smith and Danny Fuller had their portraits taken alongside mega-

Guitars, Billabong, MasterCraft Boats, VonZipper and GoPro, gave away prizes

portraits in co-branded Alexander Wang and DoSomething t-shirts and hoodies.

by such a passionate community of people.

celebs Kate Moss, Tyga, A$AP Rocky, Pamela Anderson, Kanye West, and Kim

IL Gelato just opened their new gelato café in Haleiwa. The new storefront is in

Alexander Wang stores globally with 50% of the profits going to DoSomething.

the North Shore Market Place right next to Cholo’s Mexican Restaurant. They

Kardashian, to name a few. The DoSomething garments will be sold exclusively at Check out the portraits at www.alexanderwang.com and for more information on DoSomething go to www.dosomething.org.

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LAST LOOK

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