V11n2

Wild, Wild MADE

WESTS

in Hawaii Volume 11 Number 2

+ XXX Crown Wrap + Mick + Sharks

Surfer: Kelly Slater

Photo: Sean Reilly

Free Parking This is not officially our “Pipeline Issue,� but the flurry of back to back to back swells left us with enough photos from pipe to fill several issues.

Photo: Tony Heff

Contents vol. 11 #2

22 Triple Crown Wrap Up Ross Williams breaks down the Triple Crown.

26 Most Valuable Surfer The hard fought battle for the TC title.

32 Mick Fanning Q & A with the 3x World Champ.

CCCCC

YOGA

SURFERS

66-437 Kamehameha Hwy • next to post office • behind HE>i • 808-389-3709

W W W. N N N N N N N S S S S S S S . . . .

Photo: Dane Grady

6

Free Parking

58

Swell Story

12

Cover Story

60

Board Story

14

Editor’s Note

62

Shoots

16

News & Events

64

Environment

36

Aperture

70

Industry Notes

50

Spotlight

80

Last Look

54

She Rips

Editorial Publisher: Mike Latronic Managing Editor: Lauren Rolland Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Editorial Assistant : Sean Reilly Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Chris Latronic, Sean Reilly Free Thinkers: Bert Ishimaru, Jenna Roberts, Ross Williams, Sean Reilly, Shawn Pila, Tyler Rock, Tatiana Weston-Webb Office Manager: Amy Withrow

Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Richy Arosemena, Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Paulo Barcellos, Brian Bielmann, Brent Bielmann, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Ryan T. Foley, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Pete Hodgson, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Zak Noyle, Jim Russi, Scott Soens, Spencer Suitt, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane, Shawn Pila, Isaac Frazer Sales Coordinator: Jenna Roberts Advertising Executives : Shaun Lopez, Nate Cloud, Andre Derizans, Andeaux Borundas Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Watch Board Stories and Billabong Surf TV OC16 Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv

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Heff

Cover Story

By Sean Reilly Christmas came early for Kelly Slater this year. But it wasn’t Old Saint Nick delivering the goods, it was Ms. Banzai Pipeline. Shortly after Kelly won his seventh Pipe Masters crown, the King nabbed the best wave of the best swell in 2013; earning him the “Peoples Choice” Wave of the Month, $1,000 in cash, and a Freesurf cover shot.

Many things come easy for the 11x World Champ, but this wave was not one of those things. The swell arrived Friday, December 20. Maxing first reef bombs accompanied by second reef wash throughs provided challenging conditions. While the crowds descended upon Pipeline, Kelly opted to try his luck on an outer island. However, fate had different plans for Mr. Slater.

A lack of seats sent Kelly back to the North Shore empty handed. After a long day at the airport, he paddled out to Pipe just before dark. But Kelly would come up short once again. As he made his way into the lineup, a third reef behemoth washed him passed Pupukea. The hopeful superstar had to do the walk of shame for the first time in 20 years.

Kelly would not be discouraged. The following day, technically the first day of winter, the 12-foot West swell shaped up to be the best Pipe of the year.

“That Saturday, to me, was the best Pipeline I’ve ever seen,” said Maui charger Billy Kemper. “There wasn’t a drop of water out of place and I pretty much got the best waves of my life. Two straight days, sun up to sun down, 10-12 foot First Reef, as nuts as you wanted...it was there.”

Pipeline was firing. Surfers flocked from every direction. If you “surfed Pipe” you were surfing Pipe. Despite the massive crowds, everyone seemed to be scoring. But it was Kelly’s no grab Pipeline cavern that stood out amongst the rest.

“That day was amazing,” Kelly said. “I think basically everyone who surfed got at least one good one. Saturday was a day to remember.”

I couldn’t agree more. A day I certainly will never forget.

LEILA HURST

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear

Ehukai

Photo: Manulele

Booster Model by Eric Arakawa: 5’5” X 18” X 2.06”

Ala Moana Center

808-973-6780 www.hicsurf.com

Editor’s Note

February Tangent Love Too much has went on, too little time, because I’m a fan of Willy Wonka (with Gene Wilder), I came up with a rhyme.

It may not be perfect, but I believe it will do, in reminiscing about this winter in a poetic stew.

She’s been around a little longer than you’re used to.

You might be a little beaten and in the clouds, but she toughed it out and stuck around despite you’re reckless frowns.

West North Wests that never have seemed to miss, creating an emotional state of perpetual bliss.

It’s been a lovely time so far with a surplus of moments, singing through the grapevine of social media like incendiary sonnets.

What a winter so far, what a winter indeed.

How many more barrels can we impossibly need?

There are never enough barrels and to the wise this is known.

That gifts from above aren’t forsaken in stone, but released into glistening caverns now shot with iPhones.

Will the Eddie Go? Yeah, no, hope so?

North Shore 2? North Shore 3?

What will the future be?

Will more land be claimed by the sea?

More and more people travel here for better insight.

To refuel their motivations for another and a more familiar blight.

Photo: Dane Grady

For most people it’s hard to express what they truly mean.

For most people it’s hard just to stay clean.

Happy Valentine’s Day and have a great month, see you next time, same place, with an always fresh new Freesurf face.

As more waves approach we can’t possibly fight, the urge to train harder for that one common delight.

Aloha :)

Mastering a wave is an intricate hitch, that involves obsessive focus and impeccable remiss.

But once you find the timing and the moment is right, a beautiful vision of crystal chandeliers appears in your sight.

Gleaming through the barrel the thoughts you see, are so vividly displayedeven better than the highest resolution HDTV. It’s a wonderful time for all to enjoy, but do not abuse this outlet with a sinister ploy.

You threaten a wave, it’s like a knife to our hearts.

Protect our oceans; don’t cut off the head of Lord Stark.

Pipeline, Sunset, Haleiwa, Kirra, it’s all one ocean and our job is to foresee her.

Excuse me this time, my one to unwind, after all the holiday seasons done it’s my time to rhyme.

Chris Latronic Editor-at-Large

News & Events Contest Results Boys 7-9 1) Diesel Butts 2) Kepo’inalu Alameda 3) La’akea Waipa Boys 10-13 1) Keoni Agpoon 2) Honu Longley Ka’aumoana 3) Kana’ipono Eckart

Pila

Boys 14-18 1) Shayden Pacarro 2) Ulu Napeahi 3) Kealakahi Spain

Third Annual Waiuli Ocean Festival Photos & Story by Shawn Pila The Waiuli Ohana, Kama’aha Education Initiative and Keaholoa STEM Program held their third Annual Waiuli Ocean Festival in December at Richardson’s Beach in Keaukaha. The family-friendly, drug and alcohol-free event focused on ocean awareness, environmental stewardship, community building and healthy living. Event goers were greeted with heart-warming hugs and a playful 2-3 foot northwest wrap, making it a great day for the whole family.

“The event turned out to be absolutely beautiful,” said event coordinator Alana Ortiz. “And for some reason there always seems to be waves for the kids and awesome weather!”

Little surfers and boogie boarders took over the line-up and shared waves in a keiki surf contest, followed by an ‘ohana tandem surf competition and the muchanticipated exhibition round. 16year old Shayden Pacarro threw out a few tasty turns, winning the Boys 14-18 Division. All finalists earned a handcrafted koa wood trophy, a prize package full of goodies, and a native Hawaiian plant to take home.

A keiki bamboo-pole fishing tournament and rough-water swim were some of the many highlights, along with live music, ono Hawaiian food and interactive marine and science activities. At the end of the day each kid walked away with a Team Waiuli trucker hat and a huge smile.

Girls 7-9 1) Ilikea Kamalani 2) Rain Baldado Saffery 3) Aysia-Lee Jaquias Girls 10-13 1) Makakapu Ioane 2) Mehana Kamalani 3) Kaiao Shine Girls 14-18 1) Margo Napeahi 2) Jade Steele 3) Kahele Joaquin Ohana Division 1) Ulu Napeahi & Kahanamoku 2) Jason Baldado & Rain Baldado 3) Kalae O’Shaughnessy & Masau Lee Exhibition Round 1) Sean Oblero Rough Water Swim and Run 1) Makakapu Ioane Holoholo Fish Tournament 1) Boys (Most Fish) – Diesel Butts Girls (Most Fish) 1) Aysia-Lee Jaquias Boys (Largest Fish) 1) Kamakani Pihana Girls (Largest Fish) 1) Ka’opua Puniwai Ganoot

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News & Events

Agenda Showcases It All

With any gift card purchase totaling $25 or more. ‘tis the season for hea lt

hy giving

The Agenda Trade Show was action packed with everything from fashion and street wear to surfboards and hard goods. Leaders in their respective industries put their latest products on display during the 2-day show that took place in early January, including the latest issue of Freesurf Magazine to keep industry folks informed of Hawaii happs. With a comfortable atmosphere and a casual demeanor, it is no wonder why this trade show was a great success.

Hurley Anti-Canvas Transforms Boardshorts The 5th Annual Anti Canvas Showcase of Boardshort art for Charity commenced on Saturday, December 21st at the Honolulu Night Market in Kaka’ako Park. Hurley, along with Contrast Magazine, hosted the event that presented the imaginative design of 25 local and international artists who came together to transform a pair of Hurley Phantom boardshorts. Each one-of-a-kind pair of shorts was auctioned off, with proceeds going to either Waves for Water or the Hawaii Food Bank. Contributing artists this year included John John Florence, Clark Little, C. R. STecyk III, Tim Hendricks, Keoni Payton, Aaron Kai, Carl Pao and Dana Paresa. This innovative art event has brought over $18,000 to charities since its humble beginnings in 2009.

VQS Pufferfish Surf Series at Pinetrees

By Tatiana Weston-Webb The VQS contest at Pinetrees is a fun and playful event on the North Shore of Kaua’i. All of the local groms and teenagers get to surf against each other at a renowned wave that 3-time world champ Andy Irons surfed when he was younger. It’s amazing to see such great support from Volcom for all of the surfers and let them enter for free, not to mention hooking up the competitors with rad prizes at the end of the contest.

The surfing performances from everyone were spectacular, and the future looks bright for some of Kaua’i’s standout groms. The event was so full that they had to run 10-minute heats with 1 top score! It was very difficult, and challenged even the veteran contestants of the event. With such a full contest this year, next time you hear of a VQS, be sure to enter, (if you’re young enough!) Volcom puts on a great series that is all fun and games!

www.jambahawaii.com *Offer valid from 11/8 - 1/2/13.

PARTY WAVE SANDAL COLLECTION

CHECK OUT THESE FRESH PRODUCTS AND MORE @ SANUK.COM

Kainoa Igarashi

Leonardo Fioravanti

Matty Costa

Seth Moniz

Haleiwa International Open H I O – a.k.a the Haleiwa International Open kicked off in festive form, running through the Christmas week gathering as much presents that the famed Ali’i beach park could offer. All the participants must have been good this year because they were gifted pumping swells perfect for a high performance competition during every day and division.

Hurley and friends were gracious enough to style out the finalists with product filled goody bags including ukuleles and custom beach cruisers.

Congratulations to all the competitors, but here are the ones who now own the bragging rights.

Contest Results: Boys Shortboard 1. Noa Mizuno 2. Wyatt McHale 3. Loa Ng 4. Kaulana Apo Junior Men's Shortboard 1. Matty Boy Costa 2. Josh Moniz 3. Leonardo Fioravanti 4. Takumi Yasui Men's Shortboard 1. Kylen Yamakawa 2. Nick Mita 3. Mike Dodd 4. Reid Wicklund Master's Shortboard 1. Ross Williams 2. Love Hodel 3. James Kress 4. Glenn Matsumoto Senior Men's Shortboard 1. Yoshio Abekawa

2. Allen Wicklund 3. Kalani Foster 4. Russell Oyama Grandmaster's Longboard 1. Allen Wicklund 2. Teru Ohashi 3. Michael Lorne 4. Koapaka "Hurricane" Bob Brown Senior's Longboard 1. Kalani Foster 2. Russel Oyama 3. Gino Bell Master's Longboard 1. Robin Mark 2. Leonard Foster Jr. 3. Kawika Foster 4. Kalani Wilia Men's Longboard 1. Calen Barcena II 2. Ha`aheo Foster-Blomfield 3. Kolohe Dahlin 4. Damon King

Heff

2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing

Wrap Up

Ezekiel Lau

By Ross Williams Every barbershop, coffee shop, social app, BBQ, or any other social gathering in the past month has been fueled by the buzz from the 2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS). From the four man duels at Haleiwa to the barrel heard around the world at Sunset or the Mick vs Kelly battle at Pipe, your daytime soap opera had nothing on the events that went down on the North Shore. In a time where anyone and everyone can express their opinion on twitter or blogs, the dialog is as rich and spicy as you want it. But our professional surfers don’t have time for all the madness. They will be refocused on the new season, readying themselves for new battles. That doesn’t mean we can’t take one more look at the highlights. If nothing else, at least this should keep stoke alive, both in spirit and fire!

Kirstin / ASP Heff

Chris Latronic

Michel Bourez

John John Florence

Mick Fanning

Joli

Kirstin / ASP

2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing / Wrap Up

Beyrick Devries

Cestari / ASP

Fred Pattachia

The Reef Hawaiian Pro is slotted first in the VTCS, which has always made it tricky for getting decent surf, being that it’s still early in the season. As a result, carnage unfolds in the form of shoulder-to-shoulder combat with the lack of waves for all four surfers. I hate to admit it, but watching a piece of meat thrown into a cage with four lions is kind of entertaining. Freddy P did the locals proud, fighting his way to a respectable 2nd place finish but it’s only fitting that a man nicknamed the Spartan would come out on top. Tahiti’s Michel Bourez put on a great show, surfing with speed, power and flow, resulting in a victory worth celebrating.

The Vans World Cup of surfing swung right into a juicy forecast, actually enjoying more than enough energy to choose from for the giant line up at Sunset Beach. The second day of competition was one of the best days held in Sunset’s history. No one should ever forget the giant barrel that a young South African, Beyrick De Vries packed. 10 points was no surprise but Beyrick surfed the wave as if he’s been surfing Sunset for years, not twice!

On the final day the waves were not quite as explosive but the man who won was. Ezekiel Lau put on a performance that we all knew he’s capable of. The young Hawaiian poured his soul into the final day of competition, which made the entire state proud when he gave his victory cry. When Zeke raised the Hawaiian flag, he lifted all of Hawaii up as if to say, LETS DO THIS! Everything came to a climax at Pipeline with 3 happy surfers claiming victory. A much talked about round 5 and quarter-final performance by Mick Fanning provided all the drama anyone could ask for. A scrutinized 9.5 against CJ Hobgood in round 5 and a 9.7 against Yadin Nicol will be talked about until the first horn blows on the Goldie. John John came from behind to steal the Triple Crown on the back of a final finish at Pipe.

Baring he quits surfing, JJ could take Sunny out as the all time leading

Kelly Slater

Triple Crown holder in record fashion. Meanwhile, Kelly Slater put on yet another display of dominance. Ever the showman, Kelly may not have gotten his 12th title, but he did secure even more fans, if that’s possible.

So with all the fuel you could ask for, go to your next BBQ with enthusiasm, for our sport is more dramatic than a 14-year-old girl at the prom. So debate, argue, type, laugh and enjoy the conversation, because it’s nice that our sport is exciting again! And for that VTCS, we thank you. pau

Most Valuable Player Surfer

By Bert Ishimaru When you hear the term MVP you think of athletes that are strong and powerful like LeBron James dominating in the paint during game seven to win the NBA finals. Or the quick and precise accuracy of Eli Manning, orchestrating a clutch fourth quarter drive to score the winning touchdown for Super Bowl victory. In almost every sport the “Most Valuable Player” award normally goes to the athlete with the most outstanding performance that’s far above all of the other competitors.

But in the competitive sport of surfing there is no MVP award. Or is there?

The race for this year’s title begins with the first jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa’s Ali’i Beach. This event started out with one of the biggest north swells of the season and saw some outstanding performances from the aloha state’s best local competitors. It was no surprise that leading the way in the bigger conditions was Hawaii’s own Sunny Garcia. With great wave selection, the six time Vans Triple Crown champ threw down some vicious power hacks to win his first round heat and start his campaign for a seventh Vans Triple Crown.

The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing is the only three consecutive event series that ends the competitive surfing year in the ultimate proving grounds of the North Shore of Oahu. Yes in other sports there are final series of games to win a championship. But those athletes don’t have to deal with the three different personalities of Haleiwa, Sunset and Pipeline that make the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, and it’s these three venues that really push the sport to higher levels every year.

With the solid surf still holding, day two had some explosive and powerful rides as well, one in particular from a promising up and coming surfer Ramzi Boukhiam. The Moroccan posted the only perfect ride of the event with a series of committed- and extremely vertical- backhand snaps on a steep and gnarly set wave. With the unfavorable direction and diminishing swell, the next day of competition had small and inconsistent waves on offer. Competitors really had to battle hard for position in the line up and tactics really came into play. There were many heavy interference calls that went down and one of the most surprising being John John Florence. The north shore prodigy struggled early in the heat to find his two top scoring rides and got tangled up in a paddle battle with an in form and aggressive South African Dale Staples.

To be a good surfer at all of these locations takes years of dedication and determination, but to dominate at these venues and be a Vans Triple Crown contender takes perseverance and a tenacious attitude. In its thirty-one year history only fourteen surfers have been able to battle their way to the top and win this prestigous award.

Heff

MVS With a 33rd place finish at Haleiwa, and 5th at Sunset, John John Florence fought his way to 2nd place at the Pipe Masters and topped the field of competitors to clinch the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Title.

Cestari / ASP

With the interference, Florence suffered an unfortunate early exit and received an equal 33rd placing, which extremely slimmed his chances of being in contention for a second Vans Triple Crown title. With a very quiet north pacific storm pattern, contest organizers were at the mercy of Mother Nature to get the last day of competition to happen within the twelve-day waiting period. Thankfully with a variance from the city and county for a one-day extension, the last day went off in clean 3 to 5 foot conditions. Standout performances came from veteran world tour surfers like Fred Patacchia JR. The goofy footer used his local Haleiwa knowledge to deliver multiple high scoring rides and secure a spot in the finals. Patacchia looked destined to win his first Reef Hawaiian Pro, but fellow Polynesian surfer Michel Bourez had a bigger goal of being in the lead for the Vans Triple Crown ratings after the first event, and the “Spartan” did just that and walked away with the victory.

Kirstin / ASP

Bourez, Patacchia, Flores and Atkinson- the race was just starting to heat up for the Vans Triple Crown title and all eyes focused on the second jewel of the series at the infamous Sunset Beach for the Vans World Cup. With clean 6 to 8 foot surf, a lot of big scores were getting dropped for heavy carves in the inside bowl, but the stand out of the day went to Brazil’s Heitor Alves’s impressive 18.37 heat total.

After a festive day of thanks the North Pacific finally delivered the first big westerly swell of the season for day two of competition. With extremely vertical and hollow 12 to 15 foot peaks, the top surfers had their best guns drawn and attacked the heavy conditions head on. With multiple high scoring tube rides throughout the day it was a young South African by the unique name of Beyrick De Vries that possibly got the best tube ever at Sunset Beach in a jersey. Not only did De Vries earn the only perfect score of the entire event, he also made his mark on what’s known world wide as the seven mile miracle. Most of the top world tour surfer stacked the draw in the round of 64, even eleven time world champion Kelly Slater made a rare Sunset appearance.

The king mesmerized the crowd with some late heat tactics and secured a first round victory with an impossible barrel, going left at the predominant right hand venue. With no surprise the regular foot surfers were dominating coming into the last day of competition. Guys like Taj Burrow, Raoni Monteiro and Ezekiel Lau were hammering on all cylinders and look destined to be in the top spot after the final heat.

Kelly Slater

Cestari / ASP

But quietly carving, floating, flying through the rounds was John John Florence. He knew this was his only chance to reposition himself in the race for the Vans Triple Crown title heading into the last event at his back yard, Pipeline! At the end of the day Florence had to settle for a 5th place finish and watch fellow Hawaiian Ezekiel Lau take home the first place prize and a share of the ratings lead in the Vans Triple Crown with Michel Bourez.

The match ups were set going into the third and final event of the series. The points were tight and scenarios were endless. Bourez, Lau, Patacchia, Flores and Zietz were sitting on top the ratings. The plan was very clear for these surfers- advance through as many rounds possible to hold off any heroic comeback and clinch the prestigious title for themselves.

But this is the Banzai Pipeline, and sitting just outside these top five surfers in the rankings was the heaviest ringer of them all: John John Florence. Everyone was stoked to see clean 6 to 8 foot Pipe and

Mick Fanning

Joli

Ezekiel Lau

Backdoor pits on the first day of the Billabong Pipe Maters waiting period. Ezekiel Lau, one of the top five contenders was up in heat one against a frothing Patrick Gudauskas. The stocky regular footer struggled to find some long tube time and was surprisingly eliminated and ultimately ended his run for the crown on day one. On the flip side defending Vans Triple Crown champ Sebastian Zietz packed a few deep backdoor caverns and got the first unanimous 10 point ride of the event.

Zietz along with Flores and Patacchia marched on to round three and kept the race for the Vans Triple Crown interesting.

The next day of competition really heated up when the top seeds hit the water, and a key match-up for the crown put the current first and second place ratings leaders against each other. Michel Bourez and Jeremy Flores have never won this prestigious award and both pulled out all the stops to keep their dream alive, but it was the former Pipe Master Flores moving on to the next round with some lengthy backdoor travel time.

That wasn’t the only momentum shift happening, there was another charge or stampede in motion from a very focused John John Florence.

This isn’t unfamiliar territory for Florence, as a few years ago he made an amazing run to win the award and last year was narrowly edged out

by Sebastian Zietz for the crown. With a new 10 to 12 foot northwest swell, light southeasterly winds and the biggest weekend crowds the event has ever seen, the stage was set for one of the most perfect days at Pipeline.

With the crown in reach, Florence put on one of his best performances

MVS

of the six-week series. In the quarter finals John John didn’t even give his opponent Julian Wilson one inch of opportunity and blitzed a few long Backdoor barrels to advance to the semi finals against Mick Fanning.

This was it, the moment John John was waiting for, his chance to seal the deal on a second crown. And he did just that with a pair of excellent rides back to back on some crazy Pipeline drainers.

Florence had done it, he orchestrated a miracle come back, and out performed all fellow competitors to win the 2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing title. pau

Heff

“This isn’t unfamiliar territory for Florence”

MVS

Vid: Tyler Rock

30

Cestari / ASP

2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing /

The Steely Nerve of Mick Fanning

By Tyler Rock Interview By Mike Latronic It came down to the final day of the final event of the year. Mick and Kelly. The consistent machine vs the freak. Who would take the title.

With his back up against the wall for two heats in a row, needing to make it to the semi-finals to clinch his third World Title, Mick did what champions do; he never gave up, never quit and kept fighting until the end. And at solid Pipe, that’s easier said than done. But, the champion he is, Mick knows the importance of stepping up in Hawaii.

“I put so much emphasis on Hawaii. For us it’s grand final day.

It’s Superbowl. If you go over history and you go through all the different things that have happened here- Kelly winning his 6th world title at Pipe, going on to beat everyone, the Tom Carroll snap at Pipe, Occy winning at Pipe- there’s so many amazing things that happen on that stretch of beach right there its… yeah, ya know it’s the birth place of surfing. And I still feel it has that tradition and I feel that there’s still things that need to be done out here. But in saying that, I think Pipeline’s probably one of the only places that still dictates what can be done. We ride shorter boards everywhere else around the world but every time we come to Hawaii, you’ve gotta ride the big boards. And that’s it. You can try to fight it and it doesn’t work. Especially Pipeline, you have to ride the right size board to not only get in the wave but have the drive to get through the barrel. I think that tradition will stay forever.”

For Mick this year, the title essentially came down to one wave. In the dying moments of his quarterfinal heat, needing a high 9-point ride, Mick slid into a double up roll in, faded off the bottom and stalled through a perfect peeling section. It was flawless surfing, but did the wave pack enough punch to give him the needed score to advance and clinch the title? It was close and with the judges deliberating, Mick hit the beach still wondering.

“Personally I knew that the wave in the quarter was better than my one against CJ in the 5th round. So I knew it was up there. But in saying that, I didn’t know how it would compare with how good the waves got. My heart was already half ripped out because every time I wait for a score I never get it. So yeah my heart was already half ripped out. But I guess

I was just looking at people that I fully trusted, like Parko and Taylor (Knox)… and then I was looking at Occy in the booth and I was like ‘Oh God’. I know they would give me an honest opinion. Yeah I don’t know what I was thinking. I was just like… are you going to give it to me or not? Just hurry up, rip it off like a band-aid already.”

As the score was announced, a wave of emotion came over Mick as all the build up and tension drained out of him. Looking back at the year that brought Mick his third World Title, it was machine like consistency and sheer determination that made the difference. Finishing in the quarters and beyond at all but one World Tour event, nobody maintained the constant competitive level of Mick. But the silver lining in it all seemed to be just having fun with it.

“At the start of 2012 I made a goal that I wanted to put two really good years together. I feel like I go up and down, like I have one good year and then one bad year. And so that was my goal, I really wanted to put two years together. Career-wise it was… yeah I felt like it went that way.

You obviously have the goal of winning the world title but it wasn’t the big end all for me, it was just enjoying what I was doing. That was the biggest goal for sure.”

But what is the formula for such consistency? Mick’s work ethic is no secret. As one of the most fit surfers on tour, there’s not much weakness in his game. But as any champ knows, constant improvement is the only way to stay ahead of the curve.

“I think that’s the thing, you’re always fine-tuning. You’re always trying to improve yourself in every different way.

The time that you don’t want to keep improving I think that’s the time when you got to step away. Let it be free surfing or… or even just an event. I guess you really want to just be up to do your best surfing when it matters. That’s been a huge goal of mine… ever since I started competing, I was just trying to be up to do the best surfing I possibly could do at that time. It’s like anything. You need to put in the hard work, the dedication… but also too you’ve got to be open and accepting that you’ve got to learn and grow as a person as well.

Everyone does it differently, everyone has their own way of approaching it, but for me, it’s just… each day I wake up I just want to be the best person I can possibly be. Not only for me but for my wife and my family and my friends.”

With the current level of progressive surfing, refinement is key. Heat wins don’t come easy and new threats are always mounting. But while the younger crop are getting inverted, Mick knows to stick to his strengths.

“To tell you the truth I wake up each day and… if I’ve got a heat I look at the person that I’ve got and sometimes I’m clueless on how to beat them. I don’t know how I’m going to do it. You try and come up with a game plan that you think works and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I think in the last sort of 5 years, surfing’s progressed like

Heff

“It is an awesome lifestyle, but it’s like anything else, it’s hard work. Yeah we get to come out and see the most beautiful places on earth, but it’s hard work.”

The Steely Nerve of Mick Fanning crazy. Not only on the world tour, but you have a look at guys paddling into huge waves at Jaws, and the way the aerial surfers have gone and taken their tricks from pretty much skateboard ramps to the waves. I’m such a huge fan of everyone and what they’re doing. I always take a step back at events or even just in videos and admire the way that everyone keeps pushing the boundaries. It’s incredible. I look at those guys and what they’re doing, and the aerialists. I know that if I ever did an air as good as Gabe Medina, I’d be like… I dunno... that’d be like my best all time. But also too I think I’m a tradionalist. My heroes are power surfers.

Taylor Knox, Sunny Garcia, Tom Carroll, they’re just pure power and pure essence. You know you can do an air or whatever, and to me it doesn’t feel as good as doing a great hack or a great carve. That to me is just… being on edge, putting your board on edge and feeling all the things that are going on at that time, that’s the thing that I really love.”

In Hawaii, it’s the traditional power approach that tends to hold the most weight. And at Pipe, anyone is capable of dropping a 10, especially Kelly Slater. For Mick, waiting for Kelly to lose wasn’t an option.

“I don’t want someone else to lose.

You want to go on and win. You want to go and just do what you can do. You want to achieve those goals.

I guess for me, if I had to sit on the beach I would have been a nervous wreck. It was emotional enough as it was, ya know the way that it happened. But to sit there and hope that someone else doesn’t have a great day, man that’s the worst feeling in the world. I hope that everyone has a great day.“

34

do a little something more.

“Taylor Knox tells me this every time, ‘surfing is just something that we do it’s not who we are.’ And so once you take off the leg rope or you put the board down you’ve got to be just like everyone else in the world.

You’ve got to go apply yourself in just being good. Every year you get to the end of the year and you reflect on what happened in the past and for us we try and reinvent ourselves. We add things, we delete things. And I think for me personally, I’ve got improvements to make everywhere.

Not only in the things I do well now, but things that I want to do. I think you’ve got to keep trying to be better. Always. And if you don’t, then you’ve got to readjust and maybe have a sit down and think about trying to be better in the things that you do. But yeah I guess one of my greatest passions is I want to go and help people to grow. I’ve done camps with kids and I want to give them the experience that I’ve had. Not in a selfish way like talking about me, but I just want to give them an experience and then see how they deal with it.

That really excites me to see how kids grow. And you learn a lot about yourself too by going through those different things and just sharing those things with people.”

While Mick’s surfing may have seemingly reached maturity, he continues to improve both in and out of the water. As a champ, a role model and a professional surfer, one might think Mick has it all. But the reality is, Mick just wants to be happy. And right now, being in the water and wearing a contest jersey, that’s what makes Mick happy.

“The biggest fear going for a world title, the thing that you try and do as best as you possibly can, is get Kelly out of the race before you get to Hawaii. I don’t know what it is but you feel like you can match up with people if you’ve got a go in Hawaii. But with him? He’s just phenomenal. He’s seriously the greatest athlete I’ve ever seen. He goes to this other level and he has different ways of winning. He has a way of showmanship when he’s relaxed and he’s happy and it’s all going his way. But then he has this other way of winning where he’s just determined. And we don’t see that all the time I don’t think, like when he wins events. But yesterday he was determined to do what he needed to do and he was so on point it was incredible to watch.”

“It is an awesome lifestyle, but it’s like anything else, it’s hard work. Yeah we get to come out and see the most beautiful places on earth, but it’s hard work. It’s one of those things where you’ve really got to stop yourself to go and smell the roses. For me, personally I have a lot of fun with what I do. These last couple years have been really enjoyable. But in saying that I could walk away tomorrow and be happy. The cameras, the titles and all that sort of stuff, it doesn’t mean as much to me as just being happy. If you’re truly happy you don’t need anything. You’ve got everything that’s inside you. You just got to apply yourself in life. I’d still keep surfing, but I could walk away. Seriously. But I’m enjoying what I’m doing. So as long as I’ve still got a smile on my face I’ll keep doing it.”

Mick is now in a special class of surfers with multiple World Titles to his name. He has established himself as a perennial threat in all conditions, both big and small, but there’s more to this surfer than fiberglass and wax. With his accomplishments, Mick is keen to step out of himself and

pau

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Aperture

This year’s winter solstice ushered in a solid 10-15 foot West Northwest swell that pumped out maxing first reef bombs and second reef cleanups for two straight days.

The treacherous conditions weren’t enough to deter devoted Pipe chargers like Nathan Fletcher though. The following gallery is dedicated to Pipeline on December 20 and 21.

Photo: Tony Heff

The morning of the 20th was tricky to say the least.

The swell was so West that the lineup was constantly shifting and flushing, but Pipeline experts like John John Florence were able to find the sweet spot.

Photo: Sean Reilly

There wasn’t a bad seat in the house. The Banzai Pipeline put on a show from every angle.

Photos: Tony Heff

An Iwa bird’s eye view of Yadin Nicol sliding into just one of many perfect waves.

Photo: Ryan Miller / A-Frame

Critial drops...

Photo: Tony Heff

...pay off. Just ask Tyler Newton.

Photo: Rafaski

Even Pipeline mainstays like Jamie O’Brien were baffled at how good it was.

Photo: Sean Reilly

Patient hellman like Kohl Christensen were rewarded with second reef bombs mutating into first reef double-ups.

Photo: Chris Latronic

Banzai Pipeline satiated the multitudes.

Everyone who surfed those two days walked away smiling.

Photo: Sean Reilly

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Spotlight /

Ulu Napeahi Shark Warrior

Interview by Chris Latronic Transcription by Lauren Rolland Ulu Napeahi is a 17-year old surfer from the Big Island of Hawaii. His full first name, Ulualoha means “forever growing love.” In August 2013, Ulu was attacked by a reported 8 to 10 foot tiger shark at his home break “Dead Trees” during a pumping swell. An aspiring junior surfer with much promise for the professional industry, Ulu recounts the tragic incident with Freesurf during an interview. Despite the horrific experience, this surfer still has a deep respect for sharks and an even greater affinity for life. An ordeal only a fortunate few live to tell about, this is Ulu’s story.

Tell us about where you’re from.

I come from the southeast side of the island on the Big Island, it’s called Kalapana. I live in Keaukaha. It’s real country, easy going, off the grid and I love it. I call it home, it’s so peaceful and I really appreciate it.

How was growing up surfing on the Big Island?

Growing up surfing on the Big Island was very interesting for me. I lived in Keaukala at the time, at this spot called Waiuli and I lived at my tutu’s house.

Every day at the crack of dawn I’d run away from home and go to the beach. One day I found a surfboard, a broken surfboard under this house and I kind of stole it. I had really good friends at the time who would take me out and push me into waves and my mom would be trippin’ cuz she wouldn’t know where I was all day long. And I’d come home when the streetlights came on. I was only 4 years at the time so it was pretty nuts for me to be out.

But I kind of fell in love with it ever since. I would just catch waves and ride it straight all the way and ever since then I was hooked and I just kept on surfing. I never knew it would take me this far, but when you love something so much you never give up and I think that’s the greatest thing that’s ever happened to me.

It’s funny because I’ve never seen sharks really. I was always aware of the ocean and my surroundings, but… I love the ocean, I treated it like a safe haven; it was a place for me to go to stay out of trouble. Sharks in general, I was always scared of them, but I just never let that fear affect me because I love surfing so much.

Tell us about the spot Dead Trees Dead Trees. Its located at Pohoiki on the southeast side. It’s probably the closest surf spot to my home and I surf there every single day. Whether it’s low tide, high tide, too big, blown out, I surf it every single day of my life and I love it, I live it and I breath it. I surf that place all the time alone by myself.

Tell us about August 18th, 2013.

So it was August 18, 2013 approximately 11:30am and me and my sister were paddling out, and it was funny cuz it was her first time back surfing in a few years, and she was bodyboarding. I remember paddling out of the boat ramp and into second bay and I looked out there and seen the waves just barreling and spitting on every wave. And I was like ‘Oh my god the waves are so good!’ It was about 4 or 5 feet maybe.

I surfed with her for about an hour, a good hour, till like 12:30pm and then I was like ‘Okay Tristy, I gotta get out there, the waves are so good.’ So I paddled her back in and then I started to paddle out to Dead Trees.

What do you recall about the attack?

I was at the very point of the reef cuz I wanted to get a good deep one, and right then I duckdove to wet my hair and I went to sit on my board and I got hit. So hard, the hardest I’ve ever got hit in my life. I flew like 15 feet off of my board and I was like ‘Oh my god, what just hit me?!’ It couldn’t be my friend ya know, so I yelled, I was like ‘fu*k!’ Next thing you know I sunk straight down like a floater, like ttthhhhhunk and just got ragged like a rag doll.

And at that second I knew it was a shark.

So I started punching it as good as I could and finally it got off of me.

But then it came around the front to where I could see it, and I hit it once and it let me go, and it came back and grabbed me again and that time it grabbed my hamstring down here. And I just remember fighting for my life, just punching it in every way I could. The final last look that it gave me, it’s eyes flashed from grey to black. And I punched it one last time and it swam straight down and bit off my leash and I kicked it in its mouth.

It bit me in my hips, my ass cheeks, my hamstrings, my calf and my foot. A barrage of bites. It bit me 13 times. The shark was on my back

Mana Photo

Peter King

Spotlight / Ulu Napeahi

and it bit my hips and then the second time it got my ass. And like… literally, it didn’t look like I had ass cheeks, it was shred to pieces. And my hamstring looked like a U, like the jaw you know. When it bit off my leash I kicked its mouth on accident. I felt really dumb cuz my feet didn’t look like my feet, it looked like shreds. It was pretty nasty, down to the bone, every bite. I remember trying to grab my ass cheek and I grabbed my bone back there, that’s how bad it was.

Then I got back up on my board and I noticed everyone had split, they all were paddling in. So I got on my board and caught a wave around the reef onto the corner, and halfway into the shore break my friend Dallas O’Shaughnessy paddled up to me and said, ‘Come here, grab on, hold on.’ I said, ‘Please don’t leave me in the water I got bit, please don’t leave me in the water I’m hurt’. They pulled me up on the beach.

those animals so much and I respect every living thing just as much I would like to be respected. And when it looked at me and it swam down, I knew I was okay; I knew I made it out alive.

Tell us about surfing now.

I’m super excited, I’m super pumped. I just want to surf every single day all day. I want to surf every single wave to the best of my ability. The experience has definitely given me that drive that I have something to prove. In surfing I feel way better than I have before. Maybe it’s the hype, or something. But yeah, my turns are good, my games going good right now and it’s only getting better. This is my second chance ya know. My second chance at life, my second chance at surfing.

How do you feel toward sharks after everything that’s happened?

I just laid there on the ground with my face in the sand. They lifted me up, tied the tourniquet around my waist and held me up so that the blood would flow to my heart and my head. They stopped the bleeding but I waited on the beach for 45 minutes and by that time I was going in and out of consciousness because I lost so much blood. I finally got in the ambulance and I blacked out. I actually died and they resuscitated me, shocked me back to life.

I totally respect them. It’s their territory out there in the ocean and we just play where they live. So we have to respect the ocean and all that comes with it. I have no hard feelings for sharks at all. It humbled me.

Sharks are really powerful creatures and they’re the best hunters in the world.

It was quite an experience. So after that I spent about 2 ½ weeks in the hospital.

I haven’t seen another shark since then. But my instincts in the water are so good now. If I see one shadow I’m freaked out. So, that has definitely changed. I am really scared every time I go in the ocean, but I love surfing and I’m never going to stop doing it.

What was it like looking him in the eye?

When I was underwater and I saw that last look, it was scary and peaceful at the same time. It was like looking at something that tried to take your life and settling it and being like, ‘Okay I’m done with you.’ It gives me chicken skin to talk about it and it’s really hard, but I respect

52

My message for the generation below me is to respect everyone and everything and always have a positive attitude towards anything. Believe in the spirit of aloha because it gets you really far. pau

Heff

She Rips /

Paige Alms

By Lauren Rolland

DOB: April 6th, 1988 Hometown: Haiku, Maui Stance: Regular Favorite wave: Pe‘ahi Go-to board: Any of my SOS boards Sponsors: SOS Surfboards, Kill Cliff, Sanuk, Xcel, Dakine, Pakaloha Bikinis, Wings Hawaii, Veg Out One of Maui’s token female big wave surfers, Paige Alms is self-taught and self motivated. A jack-of-all-trades, the twenty-five year old maintains a career in surfing by working. A lot. Odd jobs like ding repair, house painting, construction work, surf lessons and catering supply Paige with the funds to travel, compete and surf. When this down-to-earth female isn’t surfing or working, you can find her making art, being creative, organic gardening or playing ping-pong in friendly tournaments at her home in Haiku.

Born on the island of Victoria B.C. Canada, Paige Alms relocated to the warmer island of Maui when she was 9 years old after traveling the entire breadth of Australia in a van with her mom. Ho‘okipa became the stomping grounds at age 10 and by the age of 14, Paige’s first big wave session had her instantly hooked. “It was to an outer reef here (on Maui). I was with Chris Vandervoort, who took me out on his borrowed 9’0 and I remember that day like it was yesterday. I was hooked from that day forward,” the regular footer recounts.

So it’s no surprise that Pe‘ahi is where this athlete honed the skills for riding mountains. A combination of mental and physical training, charging

Jaws is no simple feat. Read on to find out more about this Maui surfer, her opinion on paddle vs. tow and what the line-up at Jaws is like from a female perspective.

When did you start surfing?

I had my first lesson at Byron Bay. I was born in Victoria, B.C., Canada and I moved to Hawaii when I was 9 years old. I bodyboarded a lot, always trying to stand up on it, so surfing was just a natural progression I guess. I pretty much taught myself to surf, and it was something that I instantly loved.

Tell us about your competitive timeline.

I stopped doing a lot of events when I was about 20. To do the QS full time you need to have a full budget. I got help from some of my sponsors and worked a lot to do the contests, but I didn’t really have the full travel budget. I still did contests in Hawaii and still do the Pipe event every year, but as far as shortboard contest stuff, I’m not really into it anymore. I did recently get invited to be in the Women’s Big Wave world tour event at Nelscott Reef, Oregon this winter, which I’m super stoked about!

Contest claim to fame?

In 2006 it was my final year doing NSSA and I won the Explorer Womens Championship, and beat Carissa! (Laughs)

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She Rips / Paige Alms I’ve never met… I know a lot of big wave girls get looked at as being crazy, but I feel like I play it pretty safe and make good decisions, I’m not going on just any wave.

I’m not there every time it breaks. I pick and choose my days, I like it when it’s not super windy.

Any comrades?

Keala (Kennelly), I’d say she’s my big wave partner buddy so to speak. There’s been a few others who have come over- Maya (Gabeira), Jamilah (Star) , Silvia, and a few other girls, but it’s not like a set pack in the line-up every time.

How do you prepare physically and mentally for big wave surfing?

Would you consider yourself an adrenaline junkie?

Haha, a junkie? That’s a little much, but I do love getting my heart pumping! I actually play it pretty safe I think. You definitely have to have a little screw loose to be out there (Jaws) because it’s just beyond crazy, I never thought I’d be out there paddling! Anyone who says it’s not scary is totally lying, it’s just working through that fear, and once you catch a wave you feel so accomplished that you’re high for a month.

I think physically the best thing you can do to train for big wave surfing is surfing in general. Learning the way the ocean works, the currents, the bumps, especially here in Maui we have constant cross bumps from it being so windy. I also do a lot of training in the gym, just a lot of core strength and cardio.

Spiritual, powerful, magical, thrilling.

I do breath holding but I’m not religious about it. Most of it is mental and teaching your body what it’s capable of. I was taught in a performance free diving class that an average human being should be able to hold their breath for 4 minutes. It’s like meditating- you put yourself somewhere else. It’s mentally draining though; I’m exhausted by the end of it.

Paddle or tow?

Worst wipeout?

I definitely lean more toward paddling because my home big wave break is now a paddle wave. I’m definitely not against towing though because it’s so much fun. I kind of miss it some days, thinking ‘gosh I wish I could have caught 10 waves instead of 1,’ but there is definitely a time and place for it. If there’s someone paddling, you shouldn’t be towing. I love both, but my heart and passion is for paddling.

I’m actually recovering from an injury at the moment, my worst one to date, so I guess I would have to say that one. I was in Mexico and I dislocated and fractured by shoulder in May. I got lipped by a 10-footer on my head and my shoulder popped out. It was the worst pain I’ve ever experienced. I didn’t find out it was broken until a week later back on Maui.

What’s the mood like out there at Jaws?

What has this season been like?

It depends on the swell. Now that it’s become so publicized people are showing up for s#!tty swells and you wonder why there are 30 guys out. But the mood changes depending on the swell. In between huge swells we have fun too, it’s still big but it’ll just be the local crowd. It can get pretty intense those big days, especially when it’s 50 of the best big wave surfers in the world. There is definitely a lot of ego and testosterone. It’s a bit tricky being one of the only girls and dealing with the people who show up just for the swell.

This winter has actually been kind of weird for me because I’m still injured and not confident to go back out quite yet. It’s been kind of nice seeing big swells pop up and not worrying, because I’m normally very anxious. However, I definitely had a good cry the first Jaws swell that came, I was pretty depressed all day. But normally I hate the few days before a big swell, the build up. As soon as I get in the water I feel calm, because a lot of the anxiety was just in the preparation itself. I feel like I could just hide away before the swell comes, but when it does I feel like it’s a relief and I just try to enjoy and live in the moment.

Describe surfing Jaws in 5 words or less.

What’s it like being one of the only females in the line-up? pau It’s already challenging being in a line-up as a big wave surfer, but a couple sessions I’ve been the only girl out and all my friends that are out there are super cool and supportive. But then there are guys who

56

Few & Far Between: The Life of a Big Island Surfer

By Shawn Pila

It was early on a cold December morning when a group of dedicated surfers decided to make the two-hour trek across Hawaii Island on a mission to find decent surf. With a massive 280-degree west-northwest swell on the horizon, the chances of actually getting waves were higher than usual.

“This was a rare swell,” recalls Hilo surfboard shaper Robert Patterson.

“Not by size but by direction. It was so west that it almost got the same size as the North Shore. Usually we are looking at Oahu forecasts and dividing them in half, but this time it was pretty close.”

Over the past few months Patterson and the boys had been tracking each swell while keeping a journal entry log of every trip along with buoy

readings and forecasts. Unlike the Northern Shores of Oahu, surfers on the Big Island take on additional challenges; long drives over Saddle Road, intense 4X4 rambling through thorny keawe forests, then hiking over a’a lava fields to the shore. This requires a lot more time and if you were to make the wrong call, the day and good morning conditions would slip by. Roll of the dice.

However, on that December morning, it seemed like a sure thing. The thunderous pounding of surf against jagged cliffs and the faded view of the moonlit ocean had these swell chasers foaming at the mouth. Like wise man Jeff-O once said, “The buoys never lie. You can have all the forecasts in the world, but the buoys never lie.”

Shawn Pila

Swell Story /

Once the sun peaked its face over Mauna Kea the first taker began to paddle out, sitting on the lineup making a much better scale on how big it actually was. Solid and consistent 6 to 8 foot drainers kept these die-hard water-babies busy while 10-foot cleanup sets made it that much more fun. But what made this swell unique was the crowd; just a handful of bodyboarders and surfers, a group of best friends from around the island and the “panty dropper” on water patrol. What more could you ask for?

Even though good waves are uncommon, it’s the mission itself that makes it all worthwhile. Good friends, un-crowded surf and a few beers next to the campfire. As the youngest island in a centuries old chain, the

growing pains and misfortunes only make rewards that much sweeter.

And for those lucky enough to be there when the elements do line up know full well, they come few and far between. pau

Heff

Board Story /

Jamie O’Brien

By Sean Reilly

If there was ever any confusion as to who would inherit the title of “Mr. Pipeline,” Jamie O’Brien certainly cleared that up. It’s no secret that Pipe met her soul mate when Gerry Lopez caressed her peak in the early 70’s. Carelessly gliding through gaping barrels on his signature Lighting Bolt board, Gerry approached the wave like none before. Fast forward to 2014 and you’ll find a new generation of chargers regulating the lineup; a long list of prominent CT veterans and diehard locals who have made it their life purpose to dominate Pipe. But of them all, it’s Jamie O’Brien who would literally inherit the mantle of “Mr. Pipeline.”

The talented regular footer grew up with the infamous peak as his playground. Toying with waves that would make most surfers shishi their boardshorts, Jamie has redefined what is possible at both Pipe and Backdoor. After dominating Pipeline’s opening swell in October, the super freak turned heads once again when he paddled out to Pipe on a Gerry Lopez shaped Lighting Bolt.

“The 7’2 Gerry Lopez Lighting Bolt board was a replica of one of Gerry’s boards from the 1970’s. That era Gerry ruled Pipeline,” says Jamie.

60

was loosing it, who has a single fin? It just looked like one of those days where tomorrow is going to be good and I didn’t think I was going to be able to ride the board.”

Luckily MomJohn was there to lend a hand, or in this case a fin, and Jamie didn’t miss a beat. “I woke up fired up. I got out there before the sun came up and just kept picking off really fun waves,” said Jamie.

“It was only 5 to 7 feet, but it felt pretty special to ride this board. The way this board paddled, it was incredible. It was like a Cadillac it was so smooth.”

While the board paddled like a high-class luxury vehicle, maneuvering it through a heaving Backdoor barrel was a different story.

“This board (as he holds up the Lighting Bolt) is one of the most difficult boards I’ve ever rode in my life; and I’ve rode no-fin boards, I’ve rode soft tops, I’ve rode longboards and I’ve rode boogie boards,” Jamie recounts.

“This board was that difficult. But it made it challenging, and that’s the cool thing about it. Maybe a couple people have done it, but not in a long time.”

After taking the board to Tahiti for a Red Bull Decades’ trip and coming up short, Jamie decided to give the Lighting Bolt the waves it deserved. On the evening of December 4th, Jamie eagerly prepared as an approaching swell descended upon the North Shore.

Making a soufflé is challenging. Throwing yourself over the edge of a heavy Backdoor double up on a retro singlefin and living to tell the tail, now that’s damn near impossible.

“The night before I was freaking out. I didn’t have a fin,” said Jamie. “I

pau

Shoots Dane Little: “I got my butt kicked shooting outside with my dad, so I decided to capture some smaller foam waves near the beach and scored this! My dad couldn’t believe it. I was stoked!”

Juan Oliphant

Environment /

Sharks in Our Waters?

The Debate on Shark Culling- A Brief History

By Lauren Rolland Photos By Juan Oliphant Sharks, whether actually seen in the water or merely in your thoughts, create an emotive response that is part instinctual, part media sensationalized.

Whether it is fear or admiration that thumbs the heartstrings, these creatures have a tough reputation, and the recent trend of attacks hasn’t been much help. 2013 saw thirteen shark attacks in Hawaiian waters, two of which were fatal.

Prior to 2013 there hadn’t been a single fatal shark attack in Hawaii since 2004.

“There are about forty species of sharks that occur in Hawaiian waters, ranging in size from the deep-water pygmy shark (about 8 inches) to the whale shark (up to 50 feet or more),” specifies HawaiiSharks. org, a website with contributions from University of Hawaii Undersea Research Laboratory, reviewers from University of Hawai‘i, University of Southern California Long Beach, Florida Atlantic University, Florida Museum of Natural History and content from Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology.

“About eight species are somewhat common in nearshore waters. The most frequently encountered are the whitetip reef, sandbar, scalloped hammerhead, and occasionally tiger. Of all the inshore species, tiger sharks have the most widely varied diet. They eat fish, lobsters, birds, turtles, dead animals, even garbage, and may feed whenever a food source is present.” Tiger sharks are also the species responsible for majority of attacks in Hawaii.

In a recent National Geographic online article, Yannis Papastamatiou, a marine biologist at University of St. Andrews in Scotland, said it’s nearly impossible

to know what’s behind the rise in shark attacks. There simply isn’t enough data. “The problem with shark bites is that the numbers are so low it’s hard to do any type of statistical analysis,” Papastamatiou reports.

But the unprecedented increase in attacks still has people looking for answers. Has there been a recent statistical anomaly or will Hawaii see a shark attack increase trend in coming years?

Along with Hawaii’s recordings, Western Australia (WA) has seen seven fatalities over the past three years and is now taking radical measures to see large sharks removed from Australia’s waters. WA Deputy Premier and Minister for Health Kim Hames says the Government is not budging on the proposal. “We believe the Government is doing the right thing,” Hames said in a recent statement.

The spate of incidents have sparked two very opposing ethical discussions around the world; attempt to curb attacks through shark culling or attempt to learn more about shark behavior through state funded study and research.

Shark culling is the controlling of shark population by regulated hunting and killing, and Hawaii carried out the process from 1959 to 1976 in an attempt to make the waters safer. 4,668 sharks were killed at an average cost of $182 per shark and the culling outcome saw no decrease in the rate of attacks.

From 1991 to 1993, culling was again considered in Hawaii after a series of fatal shark attacks, but Dr. Kim Holland and a team of graduate students from the Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology curbed the plan. The team lobbied the state legislature to fund scientific research that aimed to better understand tiger sharks,

their long-term movement patterns and swimming behavior.

Careful study has proved that culling is ineffective, since most sharks have been shown to leave the immediate area after eating, and return at irregular and infrequent intervals. Research also indicates that taking out one large shark in an area leaves the territory open to several smaller sharks of the same species, and since a mature tiger shark’s favorite meal is a juvenile tiger shark, culling gives the smaller sharks a greater opportunity to grow to maturity.

Furthermore, since sharks essentially function as the white blood cells of the ocean- picking off the dead and dyingthey consequently keep marine species below them healthy, and play a vital role in delicate marine ecosystems.

So if culling proved to be ineffective, why are some countries still using this method?

Are we killing sharks just to control our own fears of the unknown?

Despite what research shows on the ineffectiveness of culling, the Western Australia Government is moving forward with their controversial shark-cull plans.

This plan includes drum lines (baited hooks attached to drums) monitored daily, and soliciting commercial fishers to hunt sharks larger than 3 meters (approximately 9.84 feet).

Nationally threatened and legally protected great white sharks are expected to be one of the targeted species for culling in Western Australia, along with tiger sharks.

Experts say that while shark attack numbers have slowly risen since 1900 (according to University of Florida’s International Shark Attack Files), so too has the human population.

Ocean Ramsey, a Hawaii-based shark conservationist, agrees with this. “There are more people engaging in activities in the water than ever before and the range of distance people venture from shore has increased.

Therefore shark habitat encroachment is evident and the number of reported encounters more likely,” Ocean explains.

Worldwide, between 2001 and 2010 shark attack fatalities averaged between 4 or 5 a year. By comparison, conservationists estimated that as many at 100 million sharks are killed every year. Should humans or sharks be more worried?

Nevertheless, the threat is real and the

evidence of attacks on Hawaii ocean goers even more so. Kauai surf and beach lifestyle photographer Mike Coots was attacked by a tiger shark on October 27th, 1997 off the west side of Kauai. When asked if the experience made him feel any negativity toward sharks, Coots replied, “It actually did the opposite.”

Coots is now a shark activist and explains how his curiosity of sharks grew after the attack.

“The more I learned it became apparent that I was in a unique position to help, and I feel a calling to do so.

There are other shark attack survivors out there who feel the same way as myself, and see the power in irony to create awareness.” Coots continues on about the unique connection many ocean goers have to nature, and the calculated risk we all take by making the ocean our playground.

Juan Oliphant

Environment / Sharks in Our Waters?

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“I think anyone with a connection to nature, and specifically the ocean, would understand the inherent risks involved. I guess I held no resentment because I grew up on the beaches of Kaua’i and have spent the majority of my life in the ocean. Sharks just come with the territory.

It’s also a respect thing- if the water is salty- then it’s these fish’s home first and foremost.”

Shark Sidebar: Matt Kazuma Kinoshita “I was stand up paddle surfing mid day at Ukumehame Park in Lahaina, doing some testing on new board designs. It was the most beautiful day, the waves were very small with clean and clear water. I had been out for about 30 minutes and was riding a rolling swell straight in toward shore and as I looked up I saw huge shark racing from the shoreline trying to intercept me.

In an interview, DLNR stated that historically speaking, October through December are the months when the rate of shark incidents increases, which “is part of traditional Hawaiian knowledge, reinforced by our own statistics.” DLNR recommends a list of precautions for surfers, swimmers and fisherman, which can be found online at www. hawaiisharks.org.

“Since the water was only about 5 feet deep, both mid and back fins were high out of the water, so it only took me a split second to recognize that it was a shark. I instantly knew that I was the sharks prey, and my instincts told me to go toward it just as I do with my pit bull dogs when they chase me. Right before we hit head on, the shark- whose head was as wide as my SUP boardlunged out of the water and twisted to my right just missing the nose of my board and showing me that it was a tiger shark.

It’s not known why tiger sharks sometimes bite humans. But learning more about exactly when and where sharks are swimming in abundance might be one way to help keep people safe and also explain why some attacks occur. A website has recently implemented a map of the Hawaiian Islands, where viewers can see the most recent detections of 9 tagged tiger sharks ranging between 9.3 feet and 14.2 feet.

“I was in total shock. I could not believe that this massive tiger shark mistimed its attack on me. As I was surfing over the back half of the shark’s body, I was expecting to sic it with my fins and fall off into the water, so I braced for the impact but there was none. The swell ended up passing under me and I was standing 50 yards from shore wondering if it would come back to get me, but luckily for me it did not. I made it to shore safely and was able to warn others to get out of the water.

This PacIOOS Voyager map shows the movements of several tiger sharks who were fitted with satellite tags near Maui in late 2013.

These tags intermittently track their locations over time as the shark’s dorsal fin breaches the water’s surface. Because Maui has witnessed a higher number of unprovoked shark attacks than in previous years, this information will help determine whether sharks around Maui are more resident (more “site-attached”) than they are around the other Hawaiian Islands, and whether they exhibit greater use of inshore habitats than in other locations. (This information plus more can be found at http://oos. soest.hawaii.edu/pacioos/projects/sharks/).

“In my case, I believe that there were two reasons that I was attacked. 1.) There was a fisherman chumming the water down the beach to catch eels, which certainly brought the shark to shore. 2.) There was no waves and the only sound was my board chattering on the water as I rode the unbreaking swells, which certainly sounded like a fleeing fish and may have triggered the shark’s attack instincts.

“I absolutely believe that the shark was much smarter than we give it credit for, as it was only doing what a predator does. Once it realized that I was not a fish, it went on its way. After 35+ years of surfing and being a Firefighter I have nearly seen it all and I know that sharks are the least of our worries. In fact the drive to the beach is a thousand times more dangerous, so this experience has not changed my surfing at all. “ - Matt Kinoshita

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In regards to what Hawaii is choosing to do in 2014 about shark attacks, Ocean Ramsey says the state recently implemented sound and environmentally conscious scientific measures of tracking sharks around popular and incident prone beaches. Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) has also reported that culling is not an option being considered in Hawaii. Instead, the state is supporting a two-year study of shark behavior on Maui waters, headed by Carl Meyer, Assistant Researcher at University of Hawaii.

Sharks are prehistoric creatures, inhabiting the earth millions of years before the dinosaurs. They have become the apex predators of the ocean and are quite possibly one of the most feared creatures on the planet.

They’ve been sensationalized as mean, aggressive, man-eating machines by the media, but the reality is humans have never been a natural prey item for these creatures. The ocean is their home, we just play in it.

Polish scientist Marie Curie’s famous quote sheds light on pro-shark opinion. “Nothing in life is to be feared, it is only to be understood.” For now, Hawaii strives to understand these creatures so that we can work toward refined knowledge and ultimately safer waters. pau

Tyler Rock

Industry Notes

Noelani Studios x Wanderlust Oahu Noelani Studios is excited to be a studio partner with Wanderlust Oahu 2014.

Come wander with Noelani Studios this February to Hawaii's great “gathering place” – O'ahu! February 27 -March 2, Wanderlust is bringing their blissfilled festival to the North Shore. Enjoy yoga classes with top teachers such as Seane Corn, Shiva Rea and Eoin Finn, surfing with the likes of Gerry Lopez and starry evenings filled with music and dancing thanks to performances by MOBY, Donavon Frankenreiter, MC Yogi, and more. Check it out at http://oahu. wanderlustfestival.com.

Pakaloha 2014 News Pakaloha, a Maui-based bikini company, is happy to announce the opening of their new Oahu location in mid to late February. The store location is 66-165 Kamehameha Hwy in the Haleiwa Town Shopping Center behind Radio Shack.

The Pakaloha team rider program has been narrowed down this year and they are excited to be working with women like Paige Alms and Rochelle Ballard, plus many up and coming young girls whose surfing talent is taking off.

Pakaloha is also launching their new bikini collection (4 bottoms and 3 new tops). Follow Pakaloha on Facebook and Instagram to see the newly featured items in the following weeks! The new bikini pieces will also be available online for purchase starting this month.

Monster Mush Erosion The Rocky Point neighborhood of Oahu’s North Shore is seeing major damage as yards, decks, even Jacuzzis were swept out to sea during a late December swell. The excessive erosion was unprecedented for many homeowners, since past winter swells have done no such damage. However, a recent University of Hawaii study forecasted that more of the state's homes may be at risk, with the state on pace to lose up to 100 feet of beach in the coming decades. Efforts to protect the shoreline at Rocky Point seem both futile and dangerous as construction debris continue to fall into the waves.

Look for our community-based article about Hawaii beach erosion in an upcoming Freesurf issue to learn more.

Kirra Safe From Development... For Now A $2 billion Ocean Terminal Casino development that was proposed at Kirra, one of the Gold Coast’s most famed and loved waves, is saved from development. Among the group of protesters were current World Champ Mick Fanning and 2012 World Champ and localite Joel Parkinson. “This will affect the whole Gold Coast not only just the local area,” states Mick “One question is how will the sand flow get around this monstrosity to replenish the beaches north?” Both the surfing and non-surfing community were convinced that if the latest proposal for North Kirra/Bilinga were put into effect, its sheer size and impact would wipeout Kirra forever.

While Fanning and Parko were helping to put public protests into motion, Premier Campbell Newman recently announced that they “will simply never entertain the idea of a cruise ship terminal at Kirra Beach.” Newman’s reasoning for the stoppage was two-fold: tourism and the general feelings of the Australian public. ”Our beaches are just too important – not just as a natural wonder or as a place for families and surfers – but also for the central role they play in Gold Coast tourism,” he said. “Tourists have flocked back to the Gold Coast this summer. It’s been the best holiday period in years, and our magnificent beaches are one of the big reasons why.”

This is a huge win for Gold Coast surfers! And Save Our Southern Beaches Alliance is now rallying to list the 24-mile Gold Coast coastal strip (from South Straddie to Coolangatta) as a World Surfing Reserve to be heritage listed. To find out more, please visit ‘Save Our Southern Beaches Alliance’ on Facebook.

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Industry Notes

Ben Wilkinson For Kai’s Monster Threads Kai’s Monster Threads, a t-shirt company created and run by 10-year old Kai Delventhal, is supporting Ben Wilkinson during the big wave season. An alternate for the Eddie, Ben is also an ambassador for Kai’s Monster Threads, which is inspired, created and printed in Hawaii. Kai also just picked up his new line of black shirts, all of which are available in adult and kid sizes and ready for purchase online at kaismonster.com and select North Shore stores.

Jamba Juice’s New Smoothies Jamba Juice celebrates the New Year by unveiling its new Whole Food Nutrition™ smoothies, solidifying its commitment to inspire and simplify healthy living and provide excellent on-the-gonutrition.

Whole Food Nutrition smoothies are made with whole food ingredients including kale, carrots, chia seeds and Greek yogurt. With 10-14 grams of protein, these smoothies provide balanced nutrition and serve as a convenient breakfast, lunch, or snack on-the-go and are available in three delicious flavors: Kale-ribbean Breeze, PB Chocolate Love and Carrot Orange Fusion.

ASP Changes Rating System With the 2014 ASP season upon us, Kieren Perrow is taking on his first season as full-fledged ASP Commissioner with the same passion, style and commitment to excellence that he exhibited in his many years competing amongst the world’s best.

“The tweaks and alterations that have been made to the technical aspects of the sport over the past several years have been done so with one guiding principle – create a fair and balanced platform for the world’s best surfing to be rewarded,” Perrow said. “The combined ranking served a purpose throughout its time on tour, but the Commissioner’s Office believes that a separated ranking is the best path forward.”

This change will alter the qualification process for the elite 2015 ASP WCT, but the makeup of the ASP Top 34 will remain the same.

Industry Notes

T&C SURF Raises Over 10K For the Philippines Through the sales of their "Aloha Philippines" T-shirt, T&C Surf has raised $10,633 for the American Red Cross (ARC) – Philippines Typhoon Haiyan Relief Efforts.

On December 9, the company launched a fundraising partnership with ARC with a mission to donate proceeds from the "Aloha Philippines" T-shirt sales to the relief fund. Representatives of T&C Surf presented the check to Lillian Klein, the major gifts officer at the ARC at their Diamond Head offices yesterday afternoon. “Thanks to compassionate partner companies like T&C Surf, the people of the Philippines are putting their lives back together again!” said Klein.

T&C Surf representatives present Lillian Klein of American Red Cross a check for over $10,000.

Along with other local businesses, T&C Surf felt compelled to step up and help in the relief efforts. The Filipino community in Hawaii has been a loyal to T&C over the years. Many of their family members back home in their native land were greatly affected by the disaster. Craig Sugihara, president and founder of T&C Surf, says "We express our sympathy to the people of the Philippines as the impact of Typhoon Haiyan has been devastating. At the same time, we are grateful to our customers who supported our fundraising efforts.”

The "Aloha Philippines" T-shirt incorporates Hawaiian words such as lokahi and kokua block printed in the silhouette of the Philippine islands.

The nation’s flag featuring three yellow stars which represent the three geographical divisions of the country and the eight rays of the yellow sun which represent the original eight provinces radiates in the background. A limited number of shirts are still available at T&C Surf locations.

Russ Hennings photo Robert Pascua

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Sponsor Shuffle Ronnie Burns- Pipeline sharpshooter and Sterling’s stepfather- rode for Sera’s throughout the 1980’s. As an inductee to the Sera’s family, Jamie Sterling is carrying on the namesake while building a legacy of his own.

Southern California based slipper brand Sanuk is excited to announce the addition of Kauai supergirl Champ, Malia Manuel to their starstudded squad of ambassadors within the Sanuk Family. “We’re incredibly stoked to welcome Malia to our family. Malia will provide an authentic female touch to Sanuk and she exemplifies “Smile… Pass It On!” said Sanuk Marketing Manager, Tommy Campagne. “Oh, and did I mention she rips?”

And did we mention the new shredding addition to Sera’s Surf ‘N Shore? The Honolulu-based surf company has welcomed North Shore surfer Jamie Sterling to ride under their name. This is a poignant addition to the Sera’s team because

And speaking of legacies, Sunny Garcia now rides for Oahu-based surfwear brand Hawaiian Bradahood and is also opening his own surf school.

Shifting over to the Valley Isle, Maui boy Clay Marzo recently signed a two-year deal with Carve Clothing, cementing his place on the Carve team of over 150 riders around the world. Carve have been Clay’s eyewear sponsor for the last 2 years and the association between the two has been nothing but positive, building the brand and working together launching them onto the world stage. Carve now sits in 32

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2014 Events Calendar

countries and Clay is their marquee sponsored athlete.

Kauai grom Tanner McDaniel came out on top for 2013 in the IBA’s Junior Pro Championships. The 14-year old’s style and power was unbelievable, and Tanner was even recognized by big names such as Sports Illustrated for having such a high performance at such a young age. It would only make sense that the bodyboarder confirms a contract with Science Bodyboards. And to begin the year on an exciting note, Mike Stewart has some new innovative products Tanner is currently testing, such as the Science Launch board and Viper Delta fins. Can’t wait to see what is next to come out of this electric shredder!

February 8th - 16th SUP World Tour Opener, Sunset Beach, Oahu

February 15 & 16 NSSA Pinetrees, Kauai

February 18 – 28 IBA Hawaii Pipe Event

February 22nd Tombomb Wahine Classic, Kohanaiki (Pine Trees - the Bay)

March 1 Volcom VQS Pufferfish Surf Series, Makaha

March 1, 2 & 8 HSA, Sandy’s, Oahu

March 11 – 21 NSSS Pipe Pro Junior

March 11 – 21 Womens Pipe Pro

April 12, 13, 18 & 19 HSA, Ali‘i Beach, Haleiwa Billy Kemper, originally hailing from Paia, Maui is the latest member to join the surf team at T&C Surfboards. Kemper has proven himself at Jaws and other heavy water spots and is one of the young Maui chargers that are pushing the limits at outer reefs around Hawaii. Known for his wealth of waterman skills, T&C Surf is stoked to have him on the boards. Kemper is on the WQS and currently competes in ASP 6 star prime events. Look for BIG things from Billy in 2014.

April 24 – 27 HSA State Championship, Ala Moana Bowls

May 17 & 18 T&C Grom Contest

May 18 & 19 NSSA Kewalos

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Surf contest commentator Kaipo Guerrero has teamed up with Roark Revival, an apparel company born in the surf and skateparks of Southern California. Roark is expanding their honest, independent and adventurous clothing designs to the Hawaiian Islands and Kaipo has recently been dubbed the newest Hawaii representative.

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Last Look

John John puts on a show for the cameras.

Photo: Mike Latronic