Fsmv8 1

Free in Hawai‘i

January V8#1 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

Sion Milosky Photo: Baeseman

The Most Dominant Surfer Ever • 90 Years of Wisdom with Rabbit Kekai • The Best Photos Money Can't Buy

an al o g cl o t h i n g . co m

Free Parking

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Baeseman

It’s too crowded. It’s too shallow. It’s overhyped. It’s too much of a scene. It’s a wonder anyone ever comes to the North Shore anymore. But for California’s Alex Gray, a man who pays his dues in Hawaii year in and year out, all of the critics’ doubts are instantly silenced with one wave like this.

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Contents

Latronic

V8#1 January 2011

Nainoa Surratt, about to hit some turbulance.

30 Scary Good

The North Shore’s perimeter explodes as the island goes haywire.

44 Once, Twice, Three, Four Times a Champion Why Stephanie Gilmore will break Kelly’s record.

52 Outer Island Wire

Kauai pays homage to Andy Irons.

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catch a

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KOna Brewery & pub 75-5629 Kuakini Hwy Kailua Kona, HI 96740 • 808-334-BREW (2739) KoKO mARINA PUB 7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy Honolulu, HI 96825 • 808-394-KONA (5662)

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Must present coupon upon purchase. Excludes alcohol, tax, gratuity, & retail items. Not to be combined with any other discounts or promotions. Valid Mon-Thurs at Koko Marina location only.

Join us at the Koko Marina Pub! free surf coupon

V8#1 January 2011

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Check out our Pubs!

Get

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Frieden

Find BigWave Golden Ale on tap and in bottles throughout the Islands

Expires 12/31/11

10. F ree Parking: Laurie Towner gets up close and personal with an old friend.

18. Ed Note: Capt. Mull gets by with a little help from his friends.

20. Howzit:

We go all paparazzi on the world’s best surfers as they descend on our backyard.

22. Inside Section: After years of funding an unsponsored career, Evan Valiere cashes in and signs with Hurley; At 90 years old, Rabbit Kekai shares some wisdom; Alana Blanchard requalifies; Jamie O’Brien drops his much anticipated film Who is J.O.B.—and yes, it was well worth the wait.

52. O uter Island Wire: Kauai honors a fallen king as they pay tribute to the late Andy Irons; Maui’s Granger Larsen begins knocking on the door to the World Tour; and the Big Island’s Shane Dorian has yet another stellar North Shore performance.

Doesn’t this guy age?

60. Last Look: The forecast is calling for snow.

V8#1 January

Sion Milosky Photo: Baeseman

Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter Contributing Design Tiarra Twiggs

Free Thinkers Lantana Hoke

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Brandon Ells, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Brandon Ells, Paul Fischer, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Ryan Gamma, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

Expires Feb 28, 2011

Expires Feb 28, 2011

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

A product of Manulele, Inc. 2010

Kirsten / ASP

Editor’s note

Someone once told me that you’ll never have a set of friends as close as the ones you had in high school. Now that I’m coming up on my 10-year reunion, I’m confident that those very well may be the truest words ever spoken. Maybe it’s the sheer awkwardness of being a teenager that brings people closer together. But for me and my friends, our bond arose from something far more simple. We went surfing together as a group almost every day.

A few months into our first quarter of junior high and that anonymous group of 13-year-olds that set down together in a classroom for the first time had become as tight knit of a crew as you could imagine—all of it thanks to surfing. It was the common thread that linked us all together and forged our friendship. In class, the four of us would plan for the afterschool session with the same amount of tenacity and precision required to invade a small country. We’d beg our moms for rides and relish in the days when an older brother would let us tag along. We’d talk tremendous amounts of shit in the lineup and pretend we didn’t see each other’s first air or barrel. And when we finally got our licenses and were able to explore the other sides of the island, things only got better. Weekends meant waking up before the roosters and meeting up in the parking lot. We listened to Slayer in our cars and made fun of surfers of lesser ability, knowing full well that the better surfers were doing the same to us. We must have surfed thousands of times together and evolved our

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identities in the lineups more than anywhere else. Then it all changed.

We graduated and went our separate ways. Some of us went to college on the mainland, others in Honolulu. Some stayed home on Kauai. We still kept in touch, the occasional email or phone call telling of perfect-albeitfreezing days in Santa Cruz or crowded sessions on the North Shore. We made new friends, but it wasn’t quite the same.

But every Thanksgiving and Christmas we’d all come back to Kauai and everything would fall into place again. The moment we’d touch down in the Lihue Airport, we’d begin plotting the next day’s session. We’d meet up again in the same parking lots, Slayer replaced with Arcade Fire, the shit talking replaced with compliments. We may have matured, however slightly, but one duck-dive deep and it felt like nothing had really changed. Once a year, we were back together as our old selves and everything felt right in the world. We’d surf till our rashes bled and could no longer move our arms and then we’d do it all over again.

Although we’d never admit it to one another, when our holiday trips came to an end, we all grew a bit morose, knowing that it would probably be another year until we could all surf together as a group again. We knew that whatever perfect session with other friends we’d have in the future, it could never compare to the ones that we’ve had together in the past.—Jeff Mull

K-5 The K-5 is a great all purpose high-performance shortboard for reef and beach breaks. Deep single to double concaves flow into a kicked up tail rocker, giving this design great maneuverability, as well as exceptional drive off the front foot. Joel Centeio likes the K-5 because it’s “super fast, with good release off the top. You can hit the lip and release the tail at will”.

Kirsten / ASP

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New to the HIC shortboard range, the Viper features a high entry rocker blending to a high tail rocker; giving it more rocker than any other model. The bottom features a deep single concave with a slight double concave which provides extreme bite and hold on the face. This design performs brilliantly in the pocket and is best suited to surfers who desire ultra-sensitivity and responsiveness to subtle weight changes; but is not recommended for heavy-footed power surfers. James Lee claims the Viper’s “extremely curvy rocker gives it unparalleled performance whether taking a late drop, or flowing tight hooks in the pocket”.

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Kirsten / ASP

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Kirsten / ASP

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This design is a solid and proven performer in the typical hollow reef break surf found throughout Hawaii. Kekoa Cazimero describes it as “extremely fast and responsive...when drawing a line the board stays true.” Its adaptability to go from small to medium to large surf, makes it a favorite of Joel Centeio. “It’s really fast with lots of drive...I can push hard on carving turns, and it holds the rail really well on big waves.”

Megan Abubo claims the design “is flawless...my guns don't feel too stiff...

I can surf like I'm on a shortboard when the waves get bigger.”

Joel Centeio Rocky Rights

Photo: McGinnis

Kirsten / ASP

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Kirsten / ASP

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Cestari / ASP

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Latronic

1. Malia Manuel, proof that remarkable talent and good looks can come in the same package.

2. The coconut wireless in action.

3. Repping a legend.

4. If you’ve ever watched a webcast, be sure to thank these two for bringing surfing to your laptop.

5. Never one to let the pressure get to him, Joel Centeio flashes a waxy smile at the Reef Hawaiian Pro. 6. An 8…seriously? We’re claiming 10.

7. Vs for victory.

8. The perks of being a world champion last a lifetime—just ask Tom Carroll.

9. We finally turn the lens on FREESURF senior photographer Eric Baeseman.

10. 1990 or 2010, Sunny Garcia remains the consummate competitor.

Latronic

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inside section

This is J.O.B.

Jamie O'Brien's New Film Delivers in Spades

Jamie O’Brien is a man of many faces. Unabashedly candid, he’s pissed off more than a few and gained the admiration of many. He’s been the talk of the industry and a black sheep at the same time, the dichotomy of his reputation casting Jamie into the persona he is today—an alabaster enigma and one of the most talented surfers alive. It’s this premise that sets the cadence for Jamie’s latest biopic film, Who Is J.O.B. “All he does is follow everybody else…follow everybody else…follow everybody else. Another movie about me, me, me. Pipeline. Pipeline.

Pipeline.” This is Jamie’s opening monologue—a clinched-fist critique setting the stage for him to duct tape shut the mouths of those that said he wasn’t good enough. To those that preached that he could only ride Pipe, here’s a half-dozen segments of him pulling in all over the world.

To those that said he can’t be the face of a brand—here’s a film that was just nominated for seven categories at the Surfer Poll Awards. Simply put, 30 seconds into the first clip and Jamie erases every false notion that you’ve ever heard uttered about him. He’s undoubtedly one of the world’s

premiere tube-riders and is just as capable above of the lip as anyone you’ll find in Modern Collective.

More than just surf porn, the biggest success of Who Is J.O.B. lies in the editing and candid interviews from Slater, Bruce Irons, Mick O’Brien, and Jason Frederico who weave insightful and often comical stories of Jamie’s upbringing into each chapter of the film. Foreshadowed by bold blocks of capital text stating that “Jamie is a retard” and “Jamie was deaf” the interviews add a personal element to the film that bring Jamie’s character to the viewer. Yes, Jamie rode the short bus to school for a time, and yes, Jamie had to surf with his head duct taped as a grom. All of this adds to the appeal of the film, delivering the message that despite everything we think we know about Jamie O’Brien, he’s human just like the rest of us.

A seamless weave of the best mix of action, personal testimony, and music, we truly can’t recommend this movie enough. Go watch Who Is J.O.B. Repeatedly.

Maui

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Big Island F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

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Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Heff

inside section

When Level Heads Prevail

When Alana Blanchard first debuted on the Women’s World Tour in 2009, a mountain of hopes were pinned on the fresh-faced teenager from Kauai.

Her critics had labeled her as a pretty face and not much more. But after qualifying for the Big Leagues, it seemed as if Alana had finally silenced her skeptics. She was more than just good looks wrapped in a tight bikini and her World Tour berth was the proof. Fast-forward a year later and Alana had fallen off the tour, her maiden voyage proving tumultuous and disheartening. Facing the proverbial fork in the road, Alana could either quit competition and continue on an undoubtedly successful freesurfing/modeling career, or she could get back on the horse and attempt to requalify again. She chose the later and found success.

“Yeah, that first year on tour wasn’t too easy. I get really nervous a lot before heats and I don’t surf very well when I’m that nervous. I felt like I had to prove to people that I could actually surf last year.

The only time I actually did well last year was when we came back to Hawaii and I felt comfortable again. Yeah, so I don’t do too well when I’m nervous,” says Alana.

A year spent slogging away on the ’QS later, and Alana seems to have had an epiphany when it comes to competition; she’s found a way to dispel the doubts and nerves that have inhibited her in the past.

“I think I have a different outlook now. I’m really trying to just enjoy surfing and treat it less like every heat is a super big deal. Just go out there and enjoy it again. Since I’ve been doing that, I’ve been having better results.”

Staring down a new season on the tour, it’ll take all of Alana’s newfound mental fortitude to have the breakout season that she’s capable of and once and for all put her naysayers to rest.

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Ninety Years of Wisdom with

Rabbit Kekai

Cestari / ASP

Alana Blanchard requalifies for the world tour

At 90 years young, Rabbit Kekai has become history’s witness to the growth of surfing from its carefree years at the turn of the century to the multi-billiondollar industry it has become today. In one awe-inspiring lifetime, as a young boy Rabbit was groomed for a life spent on the beaches of Waikiki by none other than Duke Kahanamoku. In the 1930s he helped take the sport to new levels by surfing the North Shore and inventing “hotdogging.”

During the Second World War, Rabbit served as an Army Frogman in the South Pacific. When he returned, Rabbit continued his waltz with Waikiki as he became the most famous Waikiki beachboy alive today and a stalwart in the area. So what’s the trick? What sage-like advice can we learn from 90 years of living the good life? Well, it turns out, it’s something most of us are probably doing already.

Get in the water. “The water is so good,” Rabbit said in an interview to Jason Borte. “It keeps me young while my friends are so old. I tell them to get in the water. It calms you—no stress—and brings you back to earth.” If that wasn’t enough, consider ditching the cigs and sauce. Rabbit has never smoked and doesn’t drink.

inside section

Stuff We Like Da Fin It gets flat and you want to swim. You like to keep fit by bodysurfing. You shoot from the water. You need something to stuff between the bed and the cab of your truck to look cool. Whatever reason you need a pair of swim fins in your life, we’re endorsing Da Fin. They’ve kept us afloat since they first appeared in the office and we’ve been singing their praises ever since. Your feet will thank you. DaFin.com

Mr. Pipeline/ Billabong It’s difficult to say the name Gerry Lopez without conjuring up images of a Pipeline icon. Although he may have been at the forefront of uncovering G-Land along with a host of other accolades, Gerry Lopez and Pipeline will forever be linked at the hip. With his characteristic poise in the most daring of waves, Lopez become synonymous with a movement of surfers that ushered in a new era at Pipeline in the ’70s. As Part of the 2010 Pipe Masters line, Billabong has emblazoned Lopez and his legendary style on this organic cotton, slim-fit tee shirt, making it a favorite among the FREESURF office. Billabong.com

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Kirsten / ASP

Lodown / Nixon A collaboration between our favorite lifeguard, Mark Cunningham, and one of the top watchmakers in the surf industry, Nixon’s Lodown pays homage to Hawaii’s heritage with a red, white, and blue color scheme, the words Hawaii are engraved on the closure buckle, and comes wrapped in a Hawaiian flag-inspired package. Only sold in Hawaii and composed of a very limited run, if you can get your wrist on one of these before they sell out, consider yourself lucky. Nixonnow.com

Evan Valiere Gets Inked Evan Valiere had every reason to give up on his dreams. Fate, it seemed, had no intentions of seeing him develop into the professional surfer he knew he could become.

He’d done nearly everything right—he’d won events, garnered magazine spreads, he even put on his own big-wave throwdown—but for the life of him couldn’t pick up a sponsor.

Blame it on the recession, not living in SoCal, whatever, but Evan Valiere not having a sticker on his board felt like the crime of the century. Throw him in 2-foot beachbreaks and he’d drop gold, watch him in 15-foot closeout and he’d leave you giddy. But somehow, sponsorless he remained. Disheartened but not yet ready to throw in the towel, Evan marched back to his home on Kauai to teach surf lessons and scrape up enough money to pay rent and save up enough money for the upcoming winter season.

“I didn’t really tell anyone this, but there was a moment last year, basically after being sponserless for about three years,

that I was pretty much ready to quit trying to surf professionally.

I think the only person that I told that to was my mom and my girlfriend. But even then, I didn’t really believe it myself. I wasn’t going to give up on it yet.”

So Evan persevered. He held a grassroots, backyard big-wave challenge that offered little prize money, but enough respect for the winner to last a lifetime. In the water, he stayed true to his course and remained as graceful and acrobatic as ever in small waves and truly fearless in large ones.

And then it finally happened.

Hurley came knocking and Evan literally inked a deal before a heat at the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa, the proverbial finish line finally crossed.

“It feels like such a relief [to find a sponsor]. It was pretty tough for a while, but I’m super stoked now that I’ve finally got a deal,” says Evan. “It’s gonna make my life a lot easier now. I’m still gonna hustle though. I can always be better. No matter how bad it gets, or how easy it is to quit, if you really want something, keep at it.”

Heather Brown Surf Art from the North Shore of Oahu Heatherbrownart.com

inside section

Spotlight

Kaoli Kahokuloa

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Heff

Although he has all of the earmarks of your traditional young surfer, Waipahu’s Kaoli Kahokuloa is far from typical. Yes, he’s more adept in the lineup than most 15-yearolds, but what sets Kaoli apart from his peers is not only his calm and stoic nature on land and his talent in the water, but his lineage.

With a father that was raised on the native-Hawaiian-only island of Niihau, Kaoli grew up saturated in all things Hawaiian. As a baby, Kaoli’s father spoke to him in Hawaiian, giving him the foundation to become the fluent speaker he is today.

Not only does Kaoli have an innate understanding of the islands and their history, but he’s also developed a deep passion for his community. When asked what surfer he looks up to, Kaoli was quick to answer “Dave Rastovich” because “he’s really down to Earth and is a good community member. He give back a lot and I like that.”

Wise words from a teenager to say the least. In the coming months, look to Kaoli to continue his prowess this winter on the North Shore, both in the water and out.

a p e r t u r e

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Latronic

Kalani Chapman, standing vigil over holy Pipeline.

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Baeseman

Kauai’s Tyler Newton, holed up on the North Shore this winter in more ways than one.

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Seq: Heff

Zeke Lau and 25 takes on one of the deepest barrels of the winter.

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Baeseman

Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption.

Seth Moniz, under age but still manning up.

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Rock

For every frontside whip and Rodeo we’ve seen this year, Yadin Nichol’s forehand gouge remains the quintessential North Shore maneuver.

Carissa Moore, on rail and on par for yet another tremendous North Shore season.

Ells

Stephen Koehne, comfortably colorful at Backdoor.

Baeseman

Stephen Koehne, comfortably colorful at Backdoor.

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Heff

All eyes (and lenses) on Mason Ho and this iconic Backdoor tube.

Mike Stewart, cashing in on some insider knowledge.

The whitest boards are made with Aerialite.速

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Baeseman

Aerialite is a family of strong, lightweight fiberglass fabrics from BGF Industries. With its proprietary finish, it provides a smooth, brilliant white surface making Aerialite the glass of choice for master shapers and surfers alike. To learn more, or for your nearest distributor, visit Aerialite.com or email info@aerialite.com.

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Baeseman

As the caretaker of the Oakley house, Rico Jimenez has a lot of responsibility on his shoulders. But with perks like this just a stone’s throw away from his bedroom, you can rest assured that the work is well worth the reward.

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Four Times a Champion

All photos courtesy Rip Curl

An Interview with Stephanie Gilmore

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With four world titles in four years, Australia’s Steph Gilmore is on track to become the most dominant surfer—male or female—ever. By 2016, Steph could be chasing Kelly’s 10.

As fluid as they come, Steph’s own brand of grace and power has become the standard for which other female surfers the world over are judged.

“I think there’s a mixture of all things that go into success on tour—luck, natural talent, and hard work.

You’ll need all that to come together to succeed.”

FREESURF: So you’ve just broken a world record by becoming the first person in professional surfing’s history to win four world titles in a row and maintain a perfect record. Where do you take it from here?

By Lantana Hoke

S

tephanie Gilmore. Such a cute, wholesome name for such a pretty, friendly surfer girl from Australia.

Combine that with her quick smile and down-to-earth attitude, and it doesn’t really prepare you for the crazy track record this girl has attached to her. This year, the 22-year-old managed to clinch her fourth world title in four years—a feat that’s all the

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more impressive because she’s only been on tour for as many years. The first person in professional surfing’s history to boast of such a thing, the most remarkable thing about Steph Gilmore is that, well, she’s not boasting about it at all. Despite being so unassuming and friendly, with a penchant for chocolate and a talent for guitar, this is the woman who is redefining women’s surfing.

Stephanie Gilmore: I take it home with me, celebrate and then start the tour fresh and from square one in March, just like I’m a rookie again. I’m excited to be where I am and trying to progress my surfing.

FS: So what’s on your plate in the next few months?

SG: Apart from Christmas at home with my family, I’m not sure what my plans are going to be. Hopefully something fun and maybe some traveling to a new place.

FS: Can we expect you to plan on winning another four world titles?

SG: Well I didn’t exactly plan to win the first

four so quickly, but whatever I’m doing seems to be working well and I know that I’ll have to work harder each year, but it’s exciting to think of the possibilities for sure.

FS: What do your closest friends and family think about your success?

SG: Yeah, I think that they enjoy following my travels and success on tour. They’re still so supportive and they really have been since day one.

FS: What is your training schedule like?

What does it really take to be a successful professional athlete these days?

SG: I’m probably not the best person to ask this question because I’m more focused on having fun, [laughs] but I believe in a balanced lifestyle, fueling my body with fresh, healthy food, listening to my body if it’s telling me there’s an injury coming on then fix it before it gets really bad. I’ve learned a lot about life

through the CHEK Australia [Corrective Holistic Exercise Kinesiology] team and I try to use a lot of their training methods.

FS: What foods do you crave while training and surfing? Are you a health nut or more of a normal eater?

SG: Well, lots of water, fresh salads, and veggies, all kinds of meats. I love eggs for breakfast and I’m a chocolate freak.

FS: Would you say that your level of surfing can be attributed to luck and natural athleticism, or a lot of hard work?

SG: I think there’s a mixture of all things that go into it: luck, natural talent, and hard work.

You’ll need all that to come together to succeed.

FS: Do people recognize you often?

SG: You know, not really. I’m still pretty low key FREESU RFM AGAZI N E. COM

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“Well I didn’t exactly plan to win my first four titles so quickly, but whatever I’m doing seems to be working well and I know that I’ll have to work harder each year, but it’s exciting to think of the possibilities for sure.”

I think. But it’s really cool when little kids do recognize me and they get all happy.

FS: So when you were a little kid, what did Steph Gilmore want to be when she grew up?

SG: Yeah, I really wanted to be an athlete of some kind. I actually wanted to go to the Olympics. Or maybe a professional, real life Ninja Turtle!

FS: Do you want to have kids one day?

SG: Ha. That’d be scary, but yeah that’d be cool.

FS: What scares you? What are you afraid of?

SG: For me, big waves are still pretty scary and I’m still trying to get comfortable over shallow reefs.

FS: Surf shorts or a bikini?

FS: So let’s say for some reason you didn’t end up as a four-time world champ. What would you be doing if you couldn’t surf?

SG: Well, I’m not really too sure.

Maybe I’d be playing music more or working on something with my two older sisters.

SG: A bikini in freesurfs and boardshorts in competition because it’s one less thing to worry about. You don’t want your bottoms coming off in a heat.

FS: Do you think you could hang on the men’s tour?

Equally adept on the rail and in the tube, Steph Gilmore is continually pushing the barriers in women’s surfing.

“I'm gonna take this title home with me, celebrate, and then start the tour fresh and from square one in March, just like I’m a rookie again. I'm excited to be where I am and trying to progress my surfing at the same time.”

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SG: Well, I could hang out for sure, but to compete against them probably not. I’d say that they would smoke me easily. I have a long way to go before I have reached their level.

FS: Favorite book?

FS: And how would you describe yourself in one word?

FS: So what’s your biggest dream?

SG: In a word: Interested.

FS: What’s your favorite band?

SG: I listen to a lot of stuff but I really dig the Yeah Yeah Yeahs’ earlier stuff, the Beatles, Jeff Buckley, Jimi Hendrix, Tom Waits, White Stripes, Beyonce…the list will go forever.

SG: I really liked the book Marching Powder by Rusty Young.

SG: Just playing guitar, shopping, laughing, and just hanging out with friends.

FS: So what’s something that most people don’t know about you?

SG: I think cilantro tastes like ants.

SG: Having a Stephanie Gilmore-named World Tour charity event in an amazing wave pool in Madison Square garden NYC during summer with live music and fashion shows.

FS: What are your hobbies? How do you spend your non-surfing time?

FS: Are you happy?

SG: If you had my lifestyle, you’d be happy too!

FS: Last words?

SG: Mahalo.

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news & events

Remembering Ron Artis

One of Haleiwa’s Great Artists Passes Away Haleiwa lost an artistic icon in December when 61-year-old Ron Artis died from an apparent heart attack in his home. The father of 11 children, Artis, who originally hailed from Texas but had been living in Hawaii for decades, was renowned not only for his prowess with the brush, but was also as an avid musician and family man as well.

Often painting scenes of Hawaii’s natural beauty and creatures, Artis drew a steady line of fans with his colorful and vibrant array of work. His gallery, Resurrection City, became a focal point in Haleiwa’s burgeoning art scene. Whether it was a mural near the freeway or on dozens of paintings on surfboards, Artis’ work became synonymous with the North Shore landscape. Colorful, bold, and creative, it was as if the dynamics of the land were in lock step with his brush. As a testament to his work ethic, in all, Artis painted an estimated 900 murals along the North Shore. Always striving to give back to the community that he held so dear to his heart, in 2008 Artis, along with a police-backed beautification project, covered over numerous pieces of graffiti in Wahiawa.

photo: bielman

Colorful, bold, and creative, it was as if the dynamics of the land were in lock step with his brush.

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As a musician, some of Artis’ latest songs were written for the late Andy Irons. A self-proclaimed family man, Artis worked extensively with his family on musical ventures and created numerous albums over the years that ranged from funk, blues, reggae, zydeco, hip-hop, and rap. If that weren’t enough to fill a lifetime’s worth of work, the never-tiring Artis also created a host of short films with his family. He was a tremendous asset to our North Shore community and his loss will be felt by the countless individuals his work—in whatever medium it appeared—touched the community.

In an interview with his family by the Star Advertiser, Ron Artis II said that, “His favorite thing to do was preach and take care of his family. He built a powerful legacy,” he said. “He played with lots of musicians in the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, like Michael Jackson, Van Halen and Stevie Wonder. He gave up all of that to come to Hawaii and raise us kids.”

On behalf of the FREESURF Family, our condolences go out to the Artis family.

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Kauai: On a majestic Sunday afternoon, the surfing world gathered alongside a somber Kauai community to honor a fallen king. Friends and family stood arm-in-arm with the best surfers in the world as they mourned the loss of Andy Irons in the sleepy town of Hanalei.

On the beach at Pinetrees a slew of tents housing dozens of photos told the story of Andy’s life. From infant to grom to world champion, from son to brother to husband and soon-to-be father, it was nearly impossible to meander past the photographic tribute without feeling completely moved. By midday, the thousands in attendance began making their way out in the lineup in one of the largest paddleouts in history as thousands more stood vigil on the beach. Seated shoulder to shoulder, the crowd in the water gathered around a boat housing the Irons family as they scattered Andy’s ashes into the very

At this moment, water was ferociously churned into the air as the crowd chanted “AI…AI…AI” in unison and began pounding on their boards, creating a thunderous cadence that could be heard from shore.

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Coots Kirsten / ASP

news & events

Although he’s by no means a dark horse, Granger’s achievements in the Triple Crown the past year serve as a testament to just how comeptitvely adept the 21-year-old Lahaina native has become. lineup that spawned his surfing career. At this moment, water was ferociously churned into the air as the crowd chanted “AI…AI…AI” in unison and began pounding on their boards, creating a thunderous cadence that could be heard from shore.

Overhead, a helicopter circled and dropped thousands of flowers over the procession. Overcome with emotion, some of the burliest figures in our sport openly wept. The Irons family then stood, gathered around Andy’s pregnant wife, Lyndie, and touched her stomach in a symbolic gesture to the world that although Andy had passed, his legacy would live on.

Heading back to shore on a Jet Ski, Bruce grabbed one of Andy’s boards and triumphantly raised it above his head, celebrating the life of his older brother. The procession once again erupted in a sea of cheers. Back on the beach, friends and family gathered to pay tribute to Andy one last time in a celebration of his life.

Maui: If you’re looking for a breakout surfer this year that may not be on the tip of the proverbial surfing media tongue, look no further than Maui’s Granger Larsen. Although he’s by no means a dark horse, Granger’s achievements in the Triple Crown the past year serve as a testament to just how comeptitvely adept the 21-year-old Lahaina native has become. With a semi final finish at Haleiwa and a final at Sunset during the Triple Crown, Granger narrowly missed out on qualifying for the World Tour next year. At only 21, rest assured that it’s not a question of if Granger will qualify, but when.

Big Island: If there’s one thing were certain of, it’s that watching Shane Dorian surf never gets old. For decades, Shane has wowed us with his big-wave bravado and unaging sense of style. And although this winter may pale in comparison to last’s, Shane’s still managed to be on point throughout the season, giving his Kona boys back home yet another reason to be proud of their favorite son.

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“This is at a wave in Indonesia that Hawaiians love to frequent. I was waiting for Mark Healey to paddle out when I got this empty wave shot.

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last look

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Surfer/snowboarder Kenny T. Lum and a Hawaii-based crew relished in a sea of powder everywhere they went while filming for our upcoming “White Room” episode on BoardStories TV. Check back for the whole story in next month’s issue.

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