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Listen Up: The Soundtrack To your next session: Pg 28

Beginning at the End The South Pacific Rumbles to Life

Free in Hawai‘i

V7#6 • FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

Kekoa Cazimero Photo: Eric Baeseman

K E KO A C A Z I M E R O / P H OTO D H U M P

Chippa

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SRPLS WITH MOLDED VANSLITE FOOTBED

Free parking

Flynn Novak, happy trails at the end of the road.

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Baeseman

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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Contents V7#6 June 2010

The Beginning at the End

If there's one thing we're sure of, it's that if you put Eric Baeseman and big barrels in close proximity to one another, good things will happen. Heaven erupts at Teahupoo as Tahiti roars to life for a crew of young Hawaiians. Pg. 36.

When Elements converge

Grace, style and beauty unite to form one of Hawai‘i’s most treasured elements, Crystal Dzigas. Janna Irons digs for the gems. Pg. 48.

4 Coasts, 2 Surfers, 1 perfect Day

We figured that you could go for a nice change of scenery. Mother nature, at her finest.

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Baeseman

Think you need to leave home to score? Think again. Keanu Asing and Kaoli Kahokuloa slay all four coasts of Oahu in a single day. Save your money, cause the best trip you take all year may be down the H-1. Pg. 58.

3” 4 COLOR

60.40.40.100

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©2010 Oakley, Inc.

Available with Oakley Authentic Prescription Lenses - Oakleyrebels.com

Positive impact.

Pound for pound he’s one of the most engaging characters you’ll find in the sport of surfing. Sure, he’s got a reputation as a tough character, but that’s because he spends a lot of time in the ring practicing a rigorous regimen of boxing and mixed martial arts. On the inside, though, Dustin Barca is really a good vibes guy, always wearing a big smile and spreading some upbeat energy to the

people around him. And why shouldn’t he? He’s fortunate enough to hail from the Garden Island of Kauai, the closest thing to paradise left on Earth. Here at Oakley, we share Dustin’s appreciation for life. We know we’ve got it good, and we’re always looking to extend the positive impact we have on our sports and athletes through our relentless pursuit of exceptional performance.

Dustin Barca wears Fuel Cell™

Pipe Dreams Lifestyle Pearlridge - Downtown (808) 488-2688

Blue Hawaii Surf Waikele Premium Outlets (808) 677-9696

Hawaii Surf and Sail Haleiwa (808) 637-2663

Town & Country Surf Pearlridge -Uptown (808) 483-5499

Heff

Contents V7#6 June 2010

12 Free Parking: F lynn Novak and Teahupoo show us their true colors.

20 Masthead: Y our captain and crew

for this printed journey.

22 Ed Note: Gratuitous praise for a

worthy (most of the time) team.

24 Howzit: Snippets of lives being lived.

26 Inside Section: S ion Milosky and the biggest

wave we've ever seen anyone paddle into, the soundtrack to your next session, four apps for your iPhone, surf films get social, how to paint your shred stick, and the death of the Surfing Reserves bill.

68 Reviews: T he other side of the lens with Fiberglass and Megapixels.

70 News & Events: T he XXL goes large,

may we introduce you to the new Misses of Pipeline, Anastasia Ashley?

IC's new pad, Marvin Foster 74 Freeplugs: H

passes away, the kicks for summer.

888-547-1789

©2010 Oakley, Inc.

Charged.

Play near Dustin Barca and eventually you’re gonna get shocked. His personality is high-voltage and his performance is electric. No matter where Dustin rolls, the kid always has full bars. Whether he’s in the water, on land or in the ring, there’s no denying that Dustin packs a loaded charge.

From a solid arsenal of airs to his accomplished array of

barrel techniques, Dustin’s surfing is completely amped from end-to-end. And from the looks of it, nothing will throw the breaker on his career. The current will continue to flow through him, just as it does here at Oakley, where our power level keeps rising and our endless energy for innovation will keep us wired for the future.

Dustin Barca in the O-Stretch Prismatic Boardshort

Pipe Dreams Lifestyle Pearlridge - Downtown (808) 488-2688

Blue Hawaii Surf Waikele Premium Outlets (808) 677-9696

Hawaii Surf and Sail Haleiwa (808) 637-2663

Town & Country Surf Pearlridge -Uptown (808) 483-5499

A product of Manulele, Inc. Volume 7 • Number 6 Publisher Mike Latronic

Editorial

for a limited time:

super yumberry

Editor Jeff Mull Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director Richard Hutter

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Free Thinkers Bernie Baker, Beau Flemister, Janna Irons, Shawn Pila, Rima Rackauskas

smoothies

Staff Photographers Eric Baeseman, Bernie Baker, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Rima Rackauskas, Tyler Rock

Contributing Photographers Nathan Adams, Eric Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Holt Blanchard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Mike Coots, Hilton Dawe, Patrick Devault, Damea Dorsey, Willi Edwards, Brandon Ells, Beau Flemister, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, Noah Hamilton, Chris Hagan, John Helper, Rick Hurst, Buzzy Kerbox, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Ikaika Michaels, Justin Morizono, Allen Mozo, Dave Nelson, Carol Oliva, Manny Pangilinan, Christian Peralta, Pake Solomon, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Paul Teruya, Jimmy Wilson

Sales Director of Sales and Marketing Sean Wingate Advertising Executive Shaun Lopez Advertising Executive Chris Latronic Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Executive Assistant Siri Masterson

Advertising Inquiries Sean Wingate swingate@freesurfmagazine.com 808-429-8460 FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURFon the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com

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Jamba Hawaii will donate 25 cents from the purchase of any Yumberry smoothie to the Boys & Girls Club of Hawaii (up to $10,000). www.jambahawaii.com

Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. ®

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

STUBBY This design was birthed from Kekoa Cazimero’s request for a fun mini board to surf some of the shore breaks near his home. He usually rides a 6’0”, but we decided to shape a 5’4”. It was so short, we decided to call it the STUBBY, and it turned out to be a keeper.

Surprisingly, we discovered the STUBBY was fun in “real waves” and not just 1-2’ shore break. It’s fast and drivey, and it sticks to your feet since there is not much nose extending past the front foot.

The Stubby is designed with a flat deck and angled rails which carry volume out to the rail, so when considering adding a Stubby to your quiver, order it short - 6-8” shorter than your everyday shortboard, but only about 1/8” thicker.

Loosen up for Summer

High Performance small wave boards

by Eric Arakawa

BANDIT This board is the renegade brother of the Stubby. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, it breaks the rules in what a mini board is meant to be ridden in. It catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions, but this design is not to be regarded as a groveler. This is a high performance design in a small package. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The BANDIT is a barrel of fun and plenty fun in the barrel.

Kekoa Cazimero Photo: McGinnis

SUPER SKATE Another cure for the summertime blues. With a full outline, low rocker and concave bottom, this board provides maximum glide and maneuverability in small surf. The Super Skate is fun for all skill levels, and will keep you stoked and in the water on even the smallest days. Ride it 3 - 4” shorter and 1 - 1 ½” wider than your normal shortboard. Add one to your quiver and enjoy the ride!

SUMMER SURFBOARD SALE ON NOW!

Eric Arakawa’s starting at $398 (6’5” or less)

Ala Moana Center

808-973-6780

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Editor’s note

Many Mahalos

T

Expires August 31, 2010

Expires August 31, 2010

here’s a lot more that goes into the making of each issue of FREESURF than meets the eye. Although we come up with themes and editorial concepts months in advance, when it all comes down to it, we really have about three weeks to work on the issue you’re now holding in your hands. For us to turn plain, ordinary pages into a living, breathing publication, we have to work as a welloiled magazine-making machine. But most of all, we have to all get along.

And we do. There’s no room for bickering and attitudes. We simply don’t have the time. Deadlines are always brewing and last-minute surprises and changes always occur. And right now, I’d like to take a moment and acknowledge my tight-knit team for all of the hard work they put out every month. I’d like to throw a virtual shaka and a chheeehoooo for not bickering, for finding a way to make it happen no matter what, for working together as a team. For getting the job done.

So let’s commence with the backslappin, shall we? Go ahead and thumb through the issue and find your favorite photo. (I’m serious, go ahead and look through the whole thing, just make sure you comeback to this page when you’re done.)

You there? Cool. So that photo you picked to be your favorite, well, our photo team, Tony Heff and Tyler Rock, literally sifted through thousands of images from dozens of photographers to find that special shot that would fit in that special space. They spent countless hours staring at their monitor, checking for sharpness, lighting, composition. To boot, Tony did it all in the weeks leading up to getting married. So, Tony, good on ya. You can shoot and edit with the best of them and we’re glad to have you on our team.

Perhaps the most unsung hero in all of the media, the art director is the person most responsible for the general look and feel of a magazine.

At publications the world over, they pore over design blogs, dissect typography, immerse themselves in InDesign and marvel at the simple beauty of a well layed-out page. Our man behind the scenes is Richard “Rico” Hutter. And you may not see his name in the photo credits or in the byline, but as the art director, he’s the shoulders the rest of us stand on. And for that, Rich, we thank you. You can put your headphones back on now.

I’d be blind if I told you that the ad men aren’t the spine that supports this magazine. Through fat economic turns and ones that border on being anorexic, our ad salesmen, Mike Latronic, Sean Lopez and Sean Wingate, are out their hustling. With cell phones seemingly welded to their ears, these guys earn their pay day in and day out. They hustle. They get it done.

There are a dozen other contributors that make this the premiere surf magazine in Hawai‘i, and if I had the word count, I would thank them all individually. But rest assured, for everyone who submits a photo, story pitch or a new creative concept, many mahalos. You’re all a crucial part of the FREESURF team.

So with that said, it’s time to get back to work. We’ve got big things planned and they’re gonna require plenty of time. Until next month, thanks for reading and enjoy the mag. —Jeff Mull

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Careful, he bites.

Breaking a board never looked so good.

It’s not hitchhiking if your friends are driving.

You’d be laughing too.

I told you I’d get a “shot” in the mag.

The ever graceful Haunani Kane.

We feel safer already. Kimo keeping things secure.

Noon and Tamba.

A flying kickout with strings attached.

Yes, WRV does sell change towels.

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Daniel Russo

inside section

The North Shore Big Wave Challenge Evan Valiere Looks Back On His Inaugural Event This winter, at an outer reef with a name we dare not mutter, Sion Milosky had been bobbing in the lineup for nearly three hours when fate struck. His arms were heavy but his heart was light. Electrifying bolts of adrenaline shot through his body and kept his reactions sharp. From his vantage point, through the deep breaths that accompany paddling into waves that could kill, the smell of Jet-Ski exhaust swept into his nose and the sounds of exploding masses of water filled his ears. In a few minutes, staring down a mountain of water, Sion will snap to attention and hurl himself down the face of a wave that many hard-charging veterans deemed the biggest they’ve ever seen anyone paddle into. The wave, an eerily blue aquatic nightmare to the meek and a grin-spawning chance of a lifetime for others, quickly became the stuff of legends on the North Shore.

To those in the lineup on that day, Sion’s wave was jarring, terrifying, unforgettable. But for Evan Valiere, it was simply a winner. As the host of the inaugural North Shore Big Wave Challenge event, from the moment Evan’s cat-like eyes scanned the photo, he knew he had a clear-cut victor before him. The rules were simple: the biggest wave caught in Hawaiian waters would win. And judging from the jpeg just uploaded to his computer, it would be nearly impossible for anyone to top Sion’s wave.

“I started this event as a real grassroots contest to see who could catch the biggest wave in Hawaii,” said Valiere. “This wasn’t about winning a lot of money or getting famous, this was just about surfing big waves. Doing it for the sake of doing it. And that’s why I think it’s killer that Sion won this event. Anyone can enter, but it was really for the underground guys.”

As Valiere alluded, The North Shore Big Wave Challenge wasn’t a glitzy contest put on by the surf industry, but rather a homespun, backyard

challenge amongst friends and fellow chargers. Stickered or sans sponsored, once word spread through the islands, videos and photos began appearing on the event’s web page.

Staring down a mountain of water, Sion will snap to attention and hurl himself down the face of a wave that many hardcharging veterans deemed the biggest they’ve ever seen anyone paddle into.

The wave, quickly became the stuff of legends on the North Shore.

“A friend of mine and myself helped build the website,” added Valiere.

“I basically had to teach myself how to do all that stuff. I was amazed at the response and how stoked everyone was about the challenge. I couldn’t have dreamed of a better ending to my first event…It’ll be hard to top this past winter, but we’re gonna try next year,” said Valiere, “and with any luck, we’ll go even bigger.”

When was the last time you tried to surf Queens at night? If you answered never it’s high time you wax up the board,

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inside section

Sounds There’s a reason surf films are set to a soundtrack. One compliments the other and we all benefit from the right melody to match the right session.

We sat down and pored over a mountain of mp3s to match the vibes of three premiere Town haunts with the right melodies.

Bowls AFI / Prelude 12/21 Rise Against / Drones Avenged Sevenfold / Almost Easy RX Bandits / Sell You Beautiful

imaikalani Devault

Cake / Comfort Eagle

Kihei, Maui, 13 Years old Imaikalani Devault just may be the next big thing coming

Queens Capt. Pat

out of Maui. As one of the premiere aerialists calling the Valley Isle home, Imai is definitely on our radar.

The Death of Four apps for your iPhone 3 to the Beach

Burying old standards at the 6.0 Lowers Pro

Like a snake slithering away from a skin it has long since outgrown, competitive surfing shed the dated scoring commandments that had been holding it back for more than a decade at the 6.0 Lowers Pro Prime in May. The “Three to the Beach” mantra met a gruesome death at the event with every stuck frontside whip, shuv-it and tweaked reverse landed. Pro surfing had enough of the old, it was time for the new. The change was a longtime coming and we greeted its arrival with whistles and a thunderous applause.

Although the standardized-yet-sharp surfing from Florida’s Gabe Kling would earn him a win at Lowers, it was the high-flying progression of the previous rounds from the young guns that will define this event. If you can’t punt and then lay it on the rail and then boost again without breaking a sweat, take warning, because your days in the singlet are numbered. A new criteria has taken hold of surfing, one marred by speed, progression, and style. This changes everything.

Skullcandy: Name a premiere locale across the world and the odds are this app has it on lockdown. Complete with updated models for tides, winds and swell for most major surf haunts, this free app is a must.

Vans Triple Crown : Want to watch the Triple Crown on your phone? Vans has an app for that. One of the first streaming surf apps, you’ll stay up to the minute on the drama from the North Shore come winter.

Ka‘au Crater Boys / Tropical Hawaiian Day Earth Wind and Fire / September Coconut Records/ Minding My Own Business Sublime / What Happened

ASP World Tour: What! Jadson just beat Kelly? Ahh, that’s right, you missed it cause you were away from your computer and didn’t have this app on your phone. Download this app from the ASP and you’ll be in sync with the World Tour.

Shazam: Ever woner what the name of that song was on Modern Collective ? Well, instead of searching on the Internet (how Y2K of you) just downloand Shazam, open up the app and hold your phone in front of a speaker and err….Shazam!...the name of the song and the artist pops up.

Red Hot Chili Peppers / Snow

Diamond Head Jack Johnson featuring G Love / Rodeo Clown Citizen Cope / Suns Gonna Rise Gorillas / Dare MGMT / Electric Feel —Shawn Pila

mister, cause you’re missing out // There are few things more refreshing than a post-surf beverage at the Royal Hawaiian

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inside section

Oncoming Innersections

Taylor Steele takes surf films viral with his latest project, Innersection.tv.

Nathan Myers and Taylor Steele Reinvision Surf Cinema Interview by Beau Flemister Based on a progressive platform for surfers and filmmakers alike, the backbone of Taylor Steele’s latest brainchild, Innersction.tv, is centered around online, user-submitted video clips with the best clips earning a place in Steele’s next flick. And did we mention the best segment pockets $100,000? Needless to say, Innersection is causing a major buzz. We caught up with Innersection frontman Nathan Myers to chew the fat on this revolutionary new project.

FREESURF: Where did the concept for Innersection come from?

Nathan Myers: I was around while Taylor was finishing Stranger Than Fiction, and the problem was that there were too many great guys and not enough space in the movie. We started talking about how to evolve the concept and how we can start to utilize the strengths of the web. The conversation continued as we worked on The Drifter and Castles in the Sky, and Innersection is the result.

FS: Regarding the project, you’ve said that “our vision is more of an art project than competition.” What are some of the ways you’re seeing filmmakers bring art into the entries?

NM: The filmmakears are the real visionaries here. Watching 20 rodeo flips in a row would just get you desensitized. But if a flip is perfectly timed to the music, built up with a series of other maneuvers, it can have a huge impact. We try to tell the filmers to approach their section like a mini-profile film...so that we get a feeling for who the guy is much as how he surfs. If you look at all the winners from the first round, the guys who accomplished that all did really well. Dylan Graves showed his home breaks and trip to the beach. Losness showed his surf obsession (and creativity). Mikala goofed on themes. Nat Young gave a good Santa Cruz vibe. Nate Tyler’s was a nice, natural vision of West Coast surfing.

FS: What came about that made filmmakers these days switch from sections

being seemingly random, towards plot, and now to staying consistent with a theme/story?

NM:I think you’re just seeing the cream rise to the top. If you look back to the days of film, the filmmakers always told little stories and had themes to their sections. That’s because it was hard work to make a film (not to mention expensive), and so not just anyone could do it. You had to have some talent. Then video cameras came out and pretty much anyone could stand on the beach, film every wave, and whack it all together. They didn’t even need to talk to the surfer. Digital made it all worse, and the Internet even worse. Suddenly there was too much content, too much footage. It was completely overwhelming. But when a filmer puts in some thought, and really produces something of quality, it stands out from that sea of mediocrity. I think that’s what you’re noticing. Themes, storytelling, and good filmmaking have always been around...they’ve just got buried under all the other shit. We’re trying to help it rise to the top and get noticed.

I think the filmmakers you see doing well in Innersection will be the same guys you see coming out with some great surf films in the next couple years.

FS: Do you feel that many of the filmmakers are creating something with the same tone and style as the last couple Taylor Steele movies, or are there some truly original pieces coming out?

NM: Taylor’s style of surf filmmaking has had a huge influence on the industry. He basically developed a genre. And we are making one of those films with this project. This is the next Taylor Steele high-performance film.

So, the filmmakers’ styles should have some TS influence in them, but they should also bring a bit of their own style into play too. Again, we were really stoked with the success stories from Winter Round. That’s just what we were hoping to see. And now Taylor’s working with those filmmakers to make their sections even better, so they will be original, but also influenced.

after a day spent surfing Queens // Want the best view of Honolulu? Go hike to the top of Diamond Head // Word to the

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inside section

Off The Map: Peru Life on mars

Paint your shred stick

By Beau Flemister

1. Remove all wax and excess residue and wipe clean with a rag or towel.

2. Lightly sand potential artwork area. Wipe clean.

3. Lay down first (base) coat of spray paint if necessary and wait until dry.

W

hen people think Peru, they think “exotic.” The stony ruins of Machu Picchu dozing atop cloudenshrouded mountain peaks. The glistening quiet of Lake Titicaca surrounding lost islands nearly touching the sky. The roadless, impenetrable Amazon rainforest, a sweating green abyss, still teeming with unnamed flora and fauna. And then there’s the coast…which for the most part… resembles the surface of a dusty, barren moon, an overcast, sand-stormy wasteland riddled with great lefts. Yes, coastal Peru is not too easy on the eyes—I mean literally, I think I developed an eye infection there, but its redeeming qualities are what keeps its (only) visitors still coming.

The calf-burning point breaks of Puerto Chicama, Pacasmayo, Puemape and Lobitos are all sights for a surfer’s sore eyes. Cape after cape, corduroy lines peel into and along the outstretched arms of coves and bays. On land sit countless fishing outposts, villages and towns defiantly existing against the harsh desolation that encompasses them. Resorts and small hotels, I’m guessing built in anticipation to the growing numbers of surfers and tourists, eerily stand and hold vigil over the ceaseless peeling lines, gradually becoming swallowed back into the shifting sands of the desert. Most of them are decrepit, faded and vacant. There is a common, ghostly quality to most of the coastal towns.

Most, but not all of them, that is. There is life to be found in many of these distant ghost towns. Life in the undying, dignified, persevering spirits of the Peruvians that inhabit them. Take for instance the self-imposed mayor of Chicama, a guy known by all as El Hombre (The Man). I had just come in from surfing for a few hours, was peeling my wetsuit off, and El Hombre, an old man about 4'10" tall hobbled over to me. He looked like his knees had stopped

bending right quite a few years back and had a leathery face straight off the fishing boat. He looked 70, but around here that could be more like 50. He asked me if I enjoyed the waves and where I was from. I told him Hawai‘i and he smiled, looking down and pointing to the front of his baseball cap. It read: KAUA‘I, and above the letters were three Hawaiian petroglyphs. He welcomed me to Chicama and told me how he was the first Peruvian to surf the wave. He showed me how the section, directly in front of El Hombre Hotel, is named El Hombre because of him. Then, as unpredictably as he arrived, he picked up his cane, shook my hand, and hobbled away.

The calf-burning point breaks of Puerto Chicama, Pacasmayo, Puemape and Lobitos are all sights for a surfer’s sore eyes. Cape after cape, corduroy lines peel into and along the outstretched arms of coves and bays.

These days I’m not shocked when I randomly meet these Hemmingway-esque characters in real life, thousands of miles away from home with hats on that read Kauai.

Enchanted maybe, but not shocked. I know I’m probably surfing the same swell that six days prior had first pounded my home coast, and now half an ocean later, carries me along another. More than coincidence, it feels like a peculiar version of de ja vu.

4. Mask off design area and cover all remaining surfaces with newspaper to prevent over spray.

5. Apply second color and set until dry.

6. Remove all newspaper and tape.

7. Lightly wet-sand artwork, rinse and wipe clean.

8. Use paint pens to add depth, detail and outlines.

9. Spray entire design with clear-coat to seal the deal. Set until dry.

10. Wax board.

Commence shredding.

—Shawn Pila

wise when surfing Town: Always keep a few dollars worth of quarters in your car. Getting towed straight-up sucks // The

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w w w.localmotionhawaii.com

OAHU // Ala Moana Center • Waikiki • Koko Marina • Windward Mall • Pearlridge • Waikele MAUI // Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center • Kukui Mall • Lahaina BIG ISLAND // Queen‘s MarketPlace

Heff

inside section

Dead In the Water

Shouldn’t this be considered hallowed ground?

Surfing Reserves Bill Shot Down in Legislature

Recently, the Hawaii state legislature made a landmark decision when they passed a civil union bill. But in the shadows of that watershed moment in Hawaiian politics, there was another bill that went before the legislature that met a far less glorious and unrecognized fate. The Hawaii Surfing Reserves Bill, led by Sen. Fred Hemmings—a monumental figure in shaping the sport who has held elected office in Hawaii for more than two decades—was proposed before the delegates as a means to recognize the historical impact that prominent surf spots have had in the shaping of the sport in Hawai‘i. To the dismay of many, the bill was shot down by the House on the final day of the legislative session.

According to the bill, if implemented, the Surfing Reserves would include the following: (1) Formal worldwide recognition of the sites as surfing areas that have quality surf and significant cultural, historical recreational, and competitive sports value (2) Recognition of the long and close relationship between surfers and the ocean and (3) Promoting the long term preservation of Hawaii surfing reserves for recreation and competitive surfing.

The bill that was presented before the legislature was modeled after an Australian bill and essentially acted as an homage to a few select surf locations throughout Oahu including Waikiki Beach and the stretch of coast from Hale‘iwa to Sunset Beach.

The bill unanimously passed the early rounds of the legislative process, but was killed by the House and labeled as flawed by some political pundits and bloggers. To boot, it was one of the final acts of Senator Hemmings’ career as a politician as he’s retiring at the end of his present term.

T&C Surf Designs Locations:

Ala Moana Center Pearlridge Center Kahala Mall Ward Warehouse Windward Mall International Marketplace

Had the bill of passed, it would have been a milestone for the sport. shuvit is the modern version of the chop-hop.

A N A R C H Y E Y E W E A R . C O M

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PHOTO: ERIK AEDER

Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Keoka Cazimero

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Kamalei Alexander Flynn Novak

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When Elements

Converge The Crystal Dzigas Interview

By Janna Irons, Photos by Anthony Walsh

From the moment Crystal Dzigas arrives at the beach— invariably wearing high-heels and adorned in a girly dress and countless accessories, her giant longboard tucked under her arm—until her loud, infectious laughter contaminates the entire lineup, Crystal commands attention.

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But with a Kamehameha education, a Business degree from HPU, and a second-generation Kalihi upbringing to her name, there’s more to this single-fin-savvy beauty than first meets the eye.

Sassy and smart, while also incredibly genuine and personable, Crystal not only makes her introductory mark, but also keeps you intrigued. And over the past 10 years, she’s etched an impression on spectators worldwide from her homebreaks in Town and on the North Shore to Australia, Europe, and beyond earning her countless magazine spreads and international covers.

Five years ago, one such onlooker was Aussie pro surfer Anthony Walsh. With a bit of initial persuasion, Anthony courted the world-travelling longboard princess and today they are expecting their first child. As life simmers to a rolling boil and she contemplates the bright future of dual citizenship and the wave-blessed coasts of Northern Queensland, I caught up with Crystal to get her take on travelling, freesurfing, losing contests, and how she plans to keep her unborn baby from being obese.

“ I think some people have some expectation of me being a good surfer since I’ve had so many photos in magazines. I know when I see someone in a mag, I expect them to deliver. ”

Crystal, delivering for the mags.

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FreeSurf: Over the past few years, you’ve spent a lot of time going back and forth to Australia with your boyfriend. How has that been?

Crystal Dzigas: I haven’t been spending as much time in Australia as I would like to because with no sponsors, I have to work fulltime. But with my little Aussie baby on the way, hopefully I’ll spend more time there in the future.

FS: So where has life post-sponsor taken you?

CD: I’m an administrative assistant at a school for autistic children on O‘ahu. It’s definitely not where I pictured myself at 26 years old. It’s a job, not a career. I would love to find something else more stimulating. I feel like my brain is shriveling and I’m becoming more and more boring.

FS: What would be your ideal job?

CD: Definitely something more exciting and more creative. I would like a bit of travel and the freedom of working from my laptop anywhere in the world and at any time of day...yeah, not asking for much! But I would definitely like to do something more expressive and artsy, maybe designing swimwear? I’ve also been thinking about designing lately since I’m getting fatter and there are so many ugly maternity clothes out there. I refuse to buy maternity.

FS: So what do you wear?

CD: The same clothes.

“ Oh God! Anthony makes me cry sometimes. Because of our relationship, he’s not afraid to tell me what he’s thinking, so he’ll be yelling at me about where I’m sitting and everything.”

On the precipice of what’s to come, Crystal remains perched and ready for motherhood or professional surfing.

FS: Pretty soon that will start to look ridiculous.

CD: Yeah. My boobs are huge and they hang out, especially when I wear bikinis.

FS: Are you still surfing?

CD: Of course! I plan on surfing until I give birth. It’s getting kinda scary though. I won’t surf for longer than an hour and a half. It’s scary mainly because of all the beginners that surf Town. They pose more of a danger to me than myself! I’ve been strictly knee-paddling for the last month, and I think I can still do that for months!

FS: Are you having the baby on O‘ahu?

CD: Pretty sure. I was having second thoughts because of all the benefits you get when giving birth in Australia…like the baby bonus. You get about $6,000 for having a baby there. But I think it would be better to have the baby here since my family is here. We’re planning on staying in Hawai‘i for most of the time until he’s ready to go to school, then move to Australia.

FS:…And then buy a house in the Lennox area near where Anthony is from?

CD: Yeah, we’re trying to buy one before that and just rent it out while we’re not living there...but ideally we want to live in Lennox.

Then I’m going to surf the Pass for the rest of my life! I can’t wait!

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With a baby on the way and swell on the horizon, Crystal Dzigas has plenty to smile about.

FS: How did you and Anthony meet?

CD: Roxy had a house at Rocky Point one year and they let me stay in the little side house that we called The Barn. I would go longboarding with Belen [Kimble] and one day I went to her house and Anthony was there. He came longboarding with us and pretty much hasn’t left me alone since. I wasn’t really into him at first because he had this huge mustache and a really hairy chest. He kept showing up at my place and I thought it was kinda stalkerish. But then we started hanging out and I fell in love...and five years later I got knocked up, and now I’m stuck. [laughs] FS: Have you and Anthony gone on many surf trips together?

CD: We’ve done a few. My favorite is when we did a two-month road trip through Europe the year after we met. It was so much fun. He was already in Europe, so I flew to London and met him in the airport. From there, we flew to Paris and it was super romantic. We went to the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and some other places.

Then we leased a car and planned to drive throughout Europe following the WQS, which he was doing at the time. From Paris, we had to jump on a ferry to England and pick up his brother and drive back to France. We drove all night to Hossegor to get his brother there in

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time for his heat...that was a mission! We drove all through France, Spain, and Portugal and back up to France in two months. I would love to do that again.

FS: Planning to take the baby on some trips?

CD: Hell yeah! Before he turns 2 and I have to pay for airplane tickets. He’s coming to France with me next year…and to Noosa! He actually already won the Noosa contest this year.

FS: Not many people can say that. Tell me about the Noosa Festival that you won this year. You’ve been doing that contest for five years and you finally won.

CD: Yeah, this was my second final and first time winning my first ASP win ever. That contest is not worth that many points in the ASP ratings, but it’s a huge deal in Australia. They were predicting the “swell of the century” to hit Noosa just in time for our finals, but of course it didn’t get as big as predicted...only a little overhead. It was amazing this year wave-wise. I had to come in one day because it was a little too big for a pregnant me!

FS: You’ve competed in a lot of ASP events and made a lot of heats, what do you think has held you back from winning?

CD: I’m usually more concerned with having a

good time than winning. Contests were never really my thing. I made a lot of heats, but I think I get too nervous the farther along I went.

I could never really keep my focus for too long.

And I have pretty shitty wave selection.

FS: So would you say you’re “not competitive”?

CD: I definitely have a little of that in me. I like to get good results and I think when I go to some places I’m expected to do good, so I feel pretty lame if I lose early on.

FS: Why do you think people expect you to do well?

CD: I think some people have some expectation of me being a good surfer since I’ve had so many photos in magazines. I know when I see someone in a mag, I expect them to deliver.

I don’t feel pressure from that though. I put pressure on myself to do well and sometimes it’s a little too much and I just melt.

FS: Then would you say freesurfing and shooting photos is more your thing?

CD: I think freesurfing and shooting is definitely more my thing. Contest surfing would come last.

I do better with no pressure. I think I surf better when freesurfing and it’s more fun to watch. In contests I get too nervous and really stiff and it’s just not me; it’s gross.

FS: So have you been shooting a lot lately?

CD: I shot photos at the Pass with Anthony when I was in Australia. We did some experimental stuff...different angles and ideas.

He was following me on a board he’s been experimenting with it for about two years. He loves photography, so his brother and I are kind of his guinea pigs. I love it though because we try to get different things There’s only so much you can do when shooting surfing.

FS: How is it working with Anothony versus other photographers?

CD: Oh god! He makes me cry sometimes.

Because of our relationship, he’s not afraid to tell me what he’s thinking, so he’ll be yelling at me about where I’m sitting and everything.

I think since he’s a shortboarder, he has a different idea of where to be on a wave, and that makes it hard to shoot. He always tells me to catch these barreling waves and noseride right in the barrel. He doesn’t understand how hard that is. It pisses me off.

FS: If you prefer to freesurf, why even do contests?

CD: I almost do it from a business point now... if I can make my money back easily, it’s worth it. I want to do a few events after the baby is born...longboarding is huge this year and I’m kinda bummed that I’m missing out. There are two 6-stars and almost double the money with a fourth less people for the World Championships in France.

FS: It costs a lot to travel all over the world though; have you been able to make more money than you spend getting to these comps?

CD: I made out pretty good in Australia because I had a grant from the Duke Kahanamoku foundation to go. I’ve been getting one every year since 2001. It’s for people who participate in ocean sports like swimming, canoeing, surfing, water polo, etc. They give a max of $1000, and you just have to apply for it and provide letters of recommendation and letter explaining your ability, history in the sport, and history in the event. You have to live in Hawai‘i, and if you win, they send a check for one specific event and you have to submit receipts proving you went to the event. I had to do all these speeches last year at the Duke Festival about the grant. I hate speeches.

FS: You’re so inspirational.

CD: If people only knew the truth [laughs].

FS: Do you think little girls look up to you?

CD: Maybe…?

FS: What advice would give to girls who want to be you?

CD: I don’t think girls want to be me.

FS: What if they did?

CD: Don’t forget to have fun. A surfing career can be pretty demanding, but balance your work and fun...and don’t get knocked up before you are married [laughs].

FS: Do you have any regrets about the choices you’ve made, with regards to surfing?

CD: I probably could have made more money through surfing, but I didn’t really know how to work the industry. I wish I had someone to help me out in that department, because maybe I would still be making good money.

FS: What do you wish you would have known that you didn’t?

CD: I don’t like talking about myself, so it was really hard for me to talk to a company and let them know what I could bring to the table.

It was just really hard for me to negotiate contracts because I didn’t know what to ask for and I didn’t know how to ask for it. And I just don’t like all the ass-kissing that goes around in surfing. Today, the girls start off so young and have their parents talking for them. Like Kelia [Moniz] has her ex-pro surfer dad who knows how things work in surfing.

FS: So no one in your family surfs?

CD: Nope. Just me. My brother bodyboards, and so do a couple of my cousins. I started off on a bodyboard, but longboarding looked way more fun. I went to Waikiki one day and rented a longboard...that’s how I started.

FS: So will your kid be a longboarder…or a shortboarder like dad?

CD: Whatever he wants to do...hopefully a shortboarder like daddy.

“ I’m usually more concerned with having a good time than winning. Contests were never really my thing. I made a lot of heats, but I think I get too nervous the farther along I went.”

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FS: Why? CD: This is sad, but more money in shortboarding. And if he wants to go the pro surfer route, I want him to make a lot of money doing what he loves. Ah, I’m already pushing things on him! That’s a no-no! But I’ll definitely push it on him if he’s a fat kid.

FS: He won’t be. Just don’t feed him spam.

CD: No spam. I’ve been running every day and they say that moms who run during pregnancy have skinnier children. And they stay skinnier their whole lives.

FS: I’ve never heard that.

CD: Yup, I read a lot of pregnancy books.

FS: So are you hoping to pick up another sponsor, or are you going to focus on being a mommy?

CD: Looking for another sponsor is definitely not on the top of my list. If one comes along then cool, but I’m just focusing on getting ready to be a mom and getting my life in order...I’ve got a lot on my plate right now, so surfing is back to being just a hobby, a passion.

FS: Are you okay with that being all it is?

CD: Of course! That’s why I started in the first place. It was nice getting paid and it was good to have done the pro surfing thing for a while, but I’m looking forward to a new part of my life. n

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4 Coasts, 2 Surfers, 1 Perfect Day L o n g

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n a little more than 12 hours, it was finally over. The day began at dark with a simple mission: surf all four coasts of Oahu in a single day. Our eager test pilots were two of Hawai‘i’s most stratospheric rippers, Keanu Asing and Kaoli Kahokuloa, and to be blunt, we put them through the ringer. By 7 am, with the sun pulling itself over the horizon, the boys were already in the lineup at Rockies. Before lunch, we’d foraged our way through the often-overlooked East Side in search of some of gems. A bowl of the world’s best poke later and we were on the way to the West Side and a session completely to ourselves.

To top it off, with their shoulders aching, skin fried and energy depleted, we sent them out at Kewlos for an early evening surf. It was a marathon of a day if there ever was one. But in the end, after four sessions, a full tank of gas, and a fistful of memories, they did it. O‘ahu was theirs: 4 coasts, 2 surfers, 1 perfect day.

“By the end of the day, the boys were surfed out. I was a little weary from all the driving myself, but it was totally worth it,” said the photographer, Tony Heff. “They were pretty much amped the whole time.”

Kind of makes you wonder if you really need to leave home to score on your next trip.

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Heff

Heff

Rock

Rock

(Clockwise from opposite left) With more style and aquatic swagger than a surfer twice his age, Keanu Asing is quickly becoming the preeminent junior Hawaiian surfer of today. With silky smooth punts like this, it’s no wonder why; If you’re gonna conquer Oahu, be prepared to take on an army of traffic; Kaoli Kahokuloa, went above and beyond, stomping whips, airs and mancarves on every corner of the island; You don’t need to leave home to score. Kaoli, west side.

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Top: Our day-trip duo, Keanu and Kaoli, opened with a bang with an uncrowded and playful session at Rocky Point. Bottom: Off the top and over the moon on the morning’s session, Keanu materialized on the fun, nearly soulless lineup.

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Rock

7:07 am Rocky Point, North Shore

Heff

It’s early morning on the North Shore when Kaoli and Keanu pull up to Rockies for the day’s first surf. Along the reef, there are 3-foot runners and a nearly empty crowd. Smiles abound as the duo make their way into the lineup.

Keanu looks deathly sharp on his backhand, his arcs are tight, strong, determined and meaningful.

Contrastingly, Kaoli is fluid, loose and loves to get lofty. It’s a perfect start to a perfect day.

Heff Heff

Top left: Kaoli, finding some shade; Above: Taking stock of a successful first strike on the North Shore, Kaoli reflects on the beginning of a long day; Opposite page, clockwise: Hidden peaks on the East Side’s “Spot X” resulted in the day’s best session…and no, we’re not saying where “Spot X” really is; According to Keanu, this eastern gem is his new “go-to” haunt; Kaoli, in transit on his ’round-the-island trip.

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After a morning spent dismantling Rockies, Kaoli and Keanu venture east into the less known and lush coast of Oahu in search of discovery. They’d both been privy to the whispered rumors of uncrowded lineups ripe for the ripping, but neither surfer had actually surfed Spot X. What they found exceeded their every expectations. “It’s one of my new favorite spots,” said Keanu, post surf.

Heff

Heff Heff

11:36: am: Spot X, East Side

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Heff Heff

Two sessions deep and our intrepid surfers blaze through the freeway and make their way to the West Side and relish in its relentless sun. Meager conditions are on hand, but that doesn’t stop them from embarking on yet another empty session. It may not have been all time by any means, but when you surf as good as Kaoli and Keanu, even the most meager of lineups can appear mighty and dripping potential.

2:15: pm: Maile Point, West Side

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Heff

Top: Four fins to the sky, Kaoli lit up the west side with an array of finely tuned tweaks and airs; Middle: A day trip around the island meant a lot of time in the car for Kaoli and Keanu; Bottom: The west side didn’t offer up the best surf of the day, but that didn’t stop either of the boys from dropping some enders.

Rock

6:21 pm: Kewalo Basin, South Side

Top: The last stop of the day turned out to be the most progressive. Amid their friends and a growing south, Keanu launched air after air with reckless abandon. Bottom: Kaoli, dead tired after a day spent scouring the island, still managed to pull of a grin after the last session.

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Heff

Running on fumes, both in the car and in spirit, Kaoli and Keanu pull into the old stomping grounds at Kewalo Basin. This is their Graceland, the consistent waves of one of the South Shore’s premier peaks rearing them into the surfers that they are today.

At the prospect of ending this marathon of a day with a banger, Keanu digs deep and soars to new heights. n

Reviews

Fiberglass & Megapixels Longboards and shortboards. Digital and film. Video and stills. Fiberglass and megapixels. During the winter months, the North Shore is transformed into a surf-hungry arena teeming with surfers eager to make it in the legendary waves and cameramen yearning to capture it all. Take a close look out in the water on any winter day on the North Shore and you’re bound to spot a battalion of heads and water housings bobbing in the danger zone. For every glossy shot on every page and every clip streaming across your screen, there is a dedicated lensmen at the helm committed to capturing and delivering the surfing lifestyle to the masses.

Fiberglass and Megapixels is an interview-heavy new surf documentary focusing exclusively on the North Shore and pays homage to the dedicated souls who make their living on the front lines, beachside and in the pit. Giving an insider perspective to what it takes to capture the breathtaking imagery we all have come so accustomed to consuming, Fiberglass and Megapixels takes a unique approach with insightful commentary from some of the industry’s best, on a board and behind the lens. What does it really take to get that shot, nail that clip, make that cover? Great interviews and shots from Scott Aichner, Mark Healey, Larry Haynes, Fred Patacchia, Dave Nelson, Sonny Miller, Mick Fanning, and a host of the who’s who in the surf industry help to reveal the picture behind the picture. From harrowing tales to tricks of the trade, Fiberglass and Megapixels will make you appreciate what the surf media is all about.

—Tyler Rock

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news & events

new Horizons

Billabong’s XXL Awards Honors Big-Wave Surfing What kind of price do you put on paddling into a 30-foot wave at Mavericks? How much do you think a three-section tube in burly Teahupoo is worth? And what about the wipeout of a lifetime at Shipstern? The short answer is that there is no honest price that can be attributed to the commitment of big-wave surfing, only a genuine love and respect for the craft. But that hasn’t stopped Billabong from giving a shot at writing a few checks for some more than deserving surfers.

Recently, at the annual Billabong XXL Awards in Southern California, the surf industry honored our hard-charging brethren with all of the pride that comes with taking an award over your friends as well as the smile that appears when you cash a check with a few zeros.

Broken up into a number of categories covering everything from the heaviest wipeout to the biggest paddle-in, the XXL Awards continues to set the standard for a surf-industry rager. Among those finding themselves on the winner’s podium, it was a visibly stoked Grant Twiggy Baker who would take the event’s most prestigious award, the Ride of the Year, for the gelid wall of brown water he outraced at Mavs in February.

“This is for my country, South Africa! We have the FIFA World Cup later this year and we’re a proud nation,” said Baker after taking the oversized check for $50,000. “Thanks to all the guys back at Dungeons and everyone here tonight. Drinks are on me!”

Perhaps as a precursor for what’s to come, the Monster Paddle Award nominees reshaped the realm of what’s considered possible this year. With a slew of entries that could have dwarfed anything we’ve seen in years past, in the end, it was relatively unknown NorCal charger, Shawn Dollar, that would scalp one of the event’s most revered and coveted awards with his 55-foot-plus Mavericks heaver. “It’s like winning a Gold Medal or winning the World Series,” said Dollar.

By night’s end, the band of big-wave standouts had relived highlights of a monumental season and honored the greatest of the great in their tight-knit community. Barriers were broken and lines crossed.

If last winter was an indicator of what’s to come in the future, we’re looking at a renaissance of rushing on the horizon.

BILLABONG XXL RIDE OF THE YEAR AWARD

Grant Baker, Durban, South Africa // Maverick’s // Feb 13, 2010

WINNER MONSTER PADDLE AWARD

Shawn Dollar, Santa Cruz, California // Maverick’s // Feb 13, 2010

WINNER MONSTER TUBE PHOTO AWARD

Raimana Van Bastolaer, Tahiti French Polynesia // Teahupoo, Tahiti // March 17, 2010

WINNER BEST MALE OVERALL PERFORMANCE AWARD Shane Dorian, Kona, Hawai‘i

WINNER BILLABONG GIRLS BEST PERFORMANCE AWARD Maya Gabeira, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

VERIZON WIRELESS WIPEOUT

Brook Phillips, Tasmania // Shipstern’s Bluff, Tasmaniaon // October 19, 2009

Heff

news & events

Five Questions with Women’s Pipeline Pro Winner Anastasia Ashley

Come April, the North Shore sheds its menacing stare and takes on a softer side. The outer reefs typically go dormant and the surf becomes fun again.

Amid the blossoming spring swells, the ladies take a shot at Pipe at the North Shore Soap Factory Women’s Pipeline Pro. And this year, true to form, Pipe may not have been fiery, but that didn’t stop the girls from making a stand. After the event, we sat down with the winner, Anastasia Ashley, to get her take on claiming a win at Pipe.

FREESURF: Can you talk us through the final of the women’s Pipe event? I know the comp started off slow, but it got pretty darn good towards the end.

Anastasia Ashley: The comp was like a groundhog day every day for the two-week waiting period. Every day I would wake up at 6:30 am, check the waves, start stretching and getting ready, but every day it was called off. So when the last two days came, and they didn’t run it on the second to last day, I knew the final day was gonna be the day no matter what.

The final was tricky; everyone was pretty much just surfing Backdoor.

It was super shallow, so basically I just tried to sit more towards “Aints” and get a good one off the bat, which I did. My best wave of the heat ended up being this right that I was able to get a good snap off the front, and then another hit on the inside closeout. If I didn’t make it, I would have probably hurt myself because it was so shallow. I basically told myself, “I’m making this!”

FS: So what does it mean to you to win the event?

AA: It means a lot. Backdoor is one of my favorite waves. I try to surf there as much as possible. I was pretty much out there on every good day this past winter-spring. I definitely think that surfing there so much has paid off. Jamie O’Brien called me and told me that I’m gnarly, so that meant a lot.

FS: What does winning an event like this do for your psyche when you surf out at Pipe?

AA: It definitely makes me want to be a great Backdoor and Pipe surfer. It amps me up. I want to go out there and prove why I’m the Pipe champ.

FS: So does that mean that we can expect to see you out in the lineup a lot more at Pipe in the future?

AA: Yes, definitely. I’m getting my 6’8”s waxed and ready for the next northwest swell.

FS: So what’s next for Anastasia Ashley?

AA: Surfing and trying to get the best waves in the world, focusing on riding bigger waves, and barrels and designing my lines with my sponsor Airwallk.

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It’s with a heavy heart that we report that Hawaiian surfing legend Marin Foster recently passed away. Marvin was 49 and is regarded for pioneering the backside style of tuberiding known as pigdogging.

He was a monumental figure in the sport and he will be missed. Our hearts go out to his friends and family.

HIC is announcing the opening of a new retail store in the heart of Waikiki. According to CEO Leigh Tonai, “Our goal is to provide a resource for local and visiting surfers to get the equipment they need, while also introducing newcomers to the Hawaiian surfing experience unique to our islands.” Mr. Tonai explained “this location is ideal to serve both the visitor and local markets because it is close to the hotels and beach; but also has plenty of free parking accessed from Saratoga Road, which allows drivers a quick in and out of Waikiki.”

The shop will also provide lessons by Tony and Tammy Moniz.

We hate to break it to you, but those thick-tongued skate shoes you’ve been wearing are about as dated as APE Web Gloves. If you want to look shark this summer, think retro, thin and clean. And right now, the Vans Zapato del Barco shoe has our eye. Your feet, and your girlfriend, will thank you.

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HITCHES

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Aloha Board Shop ■ Bike Factory Hawaii ■ Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Wet Feet Store ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ M. Miura Store ■ Hi Tech Sports ■ Polynesian Paddling Products W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M

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Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber

last look

Coming Next Issue:

We profile one of surfing’s most interesting and sometimes misunderstood characters, Nathan Fletcher.

76

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Baeseman

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

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