Fsmv6 8

“I’m definitely growing something ridiculous...

like maybe an afro or something.”—Ezekiel Lau pg 66

Buttons The curious case of

summer is the new winter

Ha‘a Aikau Photo: Heff

Surf it, Rage IT VOLUME 6 NUMBER 8

•

FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTO LATRONIC

“ BOARDSHORTS.” THE ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE

-KEKOA CAZIMERO

Kamalei Alexander

presents...

A Nathan Fletcher film.

check ANALOGCLOTHING.COM for trialer

and more information

presents...

A Nathan Fletcher film.

and more information check ANALOGCLOTHING.COM for trialer

free Parking

This is the reason why we surf—the sought-after view looking out of the barrel, the lip pitching over your head, the guy on the shoulder hooting— getting shacked. With so much swell pouring in throughout June, the lineups were unfamiliarly unclogged and just about everyone with a pulse had a chance to lock in. Bowls, making its magic. Photo: Baeseman

10

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Download this image and others at FreeSurfmagazine.com

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

11

MAKE YOUR OWN ART OUT OF TRASH AND SUBMIT YOUR DESIGNS FOR A CHANCE TO WIN! GO TO VANSSURF.COM/TRASHPROJECT FOR MORE INFO! ©2009 VANS, INC. ACTION : NELLY

ns-freesurf-august-timmy.indd 1

100% RECYCLED PET UPPER

TIMMY REYES COLOR-UP

SUPER LIGHT WASTE-FREE OUTSOLE

6/16/09 11:15 AM

16

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

This photo available at www.freesurfmagazine.com

Contents FSM V6#8

36

THE CURIOUS CASE OF BUTTONS KALUHIOKALANI The Reinvention, Rejuvination and Redemption of an Icon

42

Aperture

Photo: Baeseman

Summer Is the New Winter

60

10.5 Ways To Rage In Town Must Do To-Dos Before You Die

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

17

Model: Shruti for Boom Boom Bikini

Photo: brooklynhawaii.com

Contents FSM V6#8

10 FREE PARKING Bowled At Bowls 20 COVER STORY Ha‘a Aikau 22 MASTHEAD 24 EDITOR’S NOTE Bend And Scoop 26 FREE-TIME GALLERY Eh Howzit!

28 WHATEVAS Billy Choi 30 INSIDE SECTION Icons 2 // Lamest Names // New Shoes // Park And Ride // Randoms II

32 PIKO Making Contact 62 SURF ART Silas Stoddard 66 NEWS & EVENTS NSSA Nationals // Quiksilver Junior Pro Kewalos

72 FREE PLUGS Industry Notes 76 LAST LOOK Anchors Away

On the cover

Ha‘a Aikau

Photo: Heff

A Summer to Remember In case you’ve been holed up inside a cave for the past few months, then you’re aware that Town has been privy to the greatest stretch of swells that any of us can remember. We’ve been bleeding southerlies for more than a month, and the results have left us sunburned, a touch thinner, and beaming with that feeling of content that only a good day—or in this case month—of surfing can provide.

As we made our way back to work, shoulders aching and a thin veneer of sea salt crusting the collective skin of the FREESURF staff, we sat down to choose a cover that we felt screamed summer. With a stack of digi cards reflecting the cream of Town piled on the desk of the photo department, we knew we were in for a healthy debate. We were on the hunt for something that encompassed the vibe of a solid south shore session, something playful, something rippable, something that made you want to bust out the hibachi, wax up your thruster, and throw the tail around all day.

Enter Ha‘a Aikau and this nugget that our own photo editor, Tony Heff, snapped of the teenager at Bowls. If this image doesn’t make you want to brave the crowds and Honolulu’s infamous parking purgatory, then we’ll see you in November, friend. Because right now, looking at Ha‘a throwing buckets, we’re just itching to fight the traffic and the crowds…and it’s not even August yet. With that in mind, here’s to summer. —Jeff Mull

On the Cover: Ha‘a Aikau Photo: Heff

Exotic

E xotic SANDAL

TEAMRIDER

Toll Free: (800)443-5656

Flojos.com

Flojos@Flojos.com

Crystal “CJ” Soto

Waimea Valley Grill and CaterinG

A product of Manulele Inc. VOLUME 6 • NUMBER 8 publisher Mike Latronic editorial editor KEVIN WHITTON associate editor JEFF MULL

Located in Waimea Valley, our grill is dedicated to bringing you farm fresh produce and local products. Our Catering Department Specializes in Private Events, Weddings, Banquets, Fundraisers, and Mixers.

To book an event with us please call 808-638-8097

or email tnaylor@waimeavalleygrill.com Waimea Valley Grill is open daily from 9-5

photo editor TONY HEFF free thinkers Beau Flemister, Siri Masterson, Noa Myers, Tyler Rock, tom stone design art director RICHARD HUTTER staff photographers ERIC BAESEMAN, TONY HEFF, MIKE LATRONIC, TYLER ROCK contributing photographers

NATHAN ADAMS, ERIK AEDER, Kirk Lee Aeder,

JAMIE BALLENGER, MARK BERKOWITZ, BRIAN BIELMANN, JOHN BILDERBACK, Holt Blanchard, BO BRIDGES, VINCE CAVATAIO, Mike Coots, DAREN CRAWFORD, HILTON DAWE, PATRICK DEVAULT, DAMEA DORSEY, WILLI EDWARDS, BRANDON ELLS, BEAU FLEMISTER, ISAAC FRAZER, PETE FRIEDEN, Kirby Fukunaga, Ryan Gamma, KENNY GIBBS, STU GIBSON, GORDINHO, CHRIS HAG AN, HAJ, JOHN HEPLER, JON HUBERMAN, Rick Hurst, ERIK IPPEL, JOLI, BUZZY KERBOX, DANNY KIM, Kin Kimoto, PETER KING, RIC LARSEN, BRUNO LEMOS, CARL LUCAS, MANA, MIKE MCGINNIS, IKAIKA MICHAELS, JUSTIN MORIZONO, ALLEN MOZO, DAVE NELSON, CAROL OLIVA, SERGIO OLIVERA, BRUCE OMORI, BRADY OSHIRO, MANNY PANGILINAN, CHRISTIAN PERALTA, Steve Robertson, JIM RUSSI, PAKE SALMON, EPES SARGENT, BOBBY SCHUTZ, SPENCER SUITT, BILL TAYLOR, Paul Teruya, KEVIN WHITTON, JIMMY WILSON, DARRELL WONG

sales director of sales and marketing SEAN WINGATE advertising executive SHAUN LOPEZ business coordinator CORA SANCHEZ executive assistant SIRI MASTERSON advertising inquiries contact 808-429-8460 or swingate@freesurfmagazine.com www.freesurfmagazine.com FreeSurf Magazine is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FreeSurf on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands.

Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com.

Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

EDITOR'S NOTE

Illustration: Manny Pangilinan

Bend and Scoop A Clean beach means clean waves

By Kevin Whitton

It’s never fun to admit when you’re sub-par, lacking or otherwise inadequate in some way. But I feel it is my duty to put it all on the table, to throw it right out there for judgment. OK, here goes: I’ve been surfing for 20 years and I just attended my very first beach cleanup on June 8, World Ocean Day. Stop throwing rotten tomatoes at me. I know it’s our implied duty as ocean enthusiasts to keep the beaches clean, to promote ocean health and be active participants in ocean-related issues. With myriad environmental groups, surf industry companies and even individuals organizing beach cleanups (and being editor of a surf publication), you’d think I should be inclined to attend the waste-purging events on a regular basis. Shoot, with the amount of surfers bobbing around the lineups these days, you’d think the beaches would be immaculate.

But as I was witness to, that’s not always the case. In fact, the beach we worked to rid of debris is a cove that I pass by often, Cockroach Bay in Waima- nalo, also called Baby Makapu‘u. From the vantage point of my polluting, personal people mover, the sand always looks white and crystalline and the water shimmers light blue, clear and inviting, as it pushes up on the rocks. On the beach it’s a different story, though.

Cockroach Bay, tucked into the north end of Kaupo- Beach Park and fringed by the highway and the Ocean Institute’s Pier, was aptly named by the exorbitant amount of cockroaches that inhabited the area, their colonies supported by the litter of beach goers. Now it seems the

24

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

cockroaches have been replaced by plastic debris. I’m talking about little tiny bits of plastic, faded red, blue and green pieces that commingle with the sand. And even though plastic won’t crawl up your leg at night to get that piece of poke that inadvertently fell into your lap, it is a much bigger problem all together.

From what I understand, plastics are not biodegradable and once introduced into the ocean, float around and break up into tiny bits over time. These tiny bits of plastic are often ingested by marine organisms, from birds and fish to krill and mammals, and cause irreparable harm by poisoning, choking and lodging in smaller creatures, essentially starving them to death.

These small bits are just as damaging as larger plastic debris and they were everywhere along the beach: strewn threw the organic debris at the high-tide line, in the sandy crevices of the rocks and in the tide pools. There was no point in picking up one bit at a time. I was scooping up handfuls of sand, the colorful plastic pieces finding their way into my trash bag.

But there’s no happy ending here. Those little pieces of plastic are a stark and visible reminder of the decades of damage already done, and I’m not going to get into the giant garbage patch floating around in the Pacific that is double the size of Texas. So bend and scoop, we (all surfers, myself included) have a lot of work to do and it seems that in the future, I’ll be dropping in as surfer and rubbish collector.

PHOTOS BY: T.Mc.

www.honoluasurf.com

Maui

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Paia

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Royal Hawaiian Center

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

2

1

3

4

1 Joel Centeio mentors a couple of groms.

Just add water. Photo: Latronic

6 Our guess is that, somehow, Drewtoonz will incorporate this rooster into his next animated film. Photo: Heff

2 Talk about pretty in pink; these ladies know how to light up Sunset Point on a cloudy day. Photo: Heff

7 What a job!

3 Makua Rothman makes the trek to the South Shore to cool off. Photo: Baeseman 4 The elusive and endangered monk surfer.

Photo: Heff

5 One of the main reasons we still paddle out when it’s small.

Photo: Edwards

8 Third Stone glasser Steve “Resinvader” Matthews says, “use the force and order a new board.” Photo: Heff 9 Granger Larsen, one of many bright lights emerging from the Valley Isle. Photo: Heff 10 Jay Adams knows there’s no “I” in “Team.”

Photo: Baseman

EH HOWZIt! Photo: Heff

5

7

6

8

9

10

inside section

Whatevas

Photo: Rock

Billy Choi The Comeback Kid

FSM: What’s it like behind bars?

BC: It’s the most heartbreaking place on the planet. Every day you wake up at 6:30, go to bed at 9:00, knowing that in between those times there’s so much you could be doing with your life in a free world. It’s dark, cold, no joke, and there’s a lot of people in there with dark and cold hearts. The food sucks and you continually have to watch your back.

Interview by Beau Flemister

On May 28, 2008 Billy Choi, a wellknown and extremely talented local surfer, went to prison. A full year later, still facing 20 more years behind bars, he entered the 2009 Local Motion Surf Into Summer contest with merely two weeks of training, and won. Yeah, that’s how he rolls. By the way, this is his fourth Surf Into Summer victory. He’s taken the event consecutively from ’02 to ’04. He kind of owns Bowls.

Though the complexities of his legal dilemma can’t be discussed, that is neither here nor there, and for anyone Photo: Latronic who knows Billy personally, they will vouch for his sterling character. Always a guy to help and befriend others, a guy who is perpetually stoked on surfing and life, FREESURF caught up with Billy right after his big win and new sponsorships with Max GXL and Da Hui. FREESURF: Billy, I know you can’t legally discuss the details of your case, but holy crap, WTF happened?

Billy Choi: All I have to say on that is don’t believe everything you see or read in the media. Period. I’m stunned and shocked at what was said about me, of what I was accused of.

28

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

FSM: What did you do to keep sane?

BC: I never lost hope. I trained a lot: ran six miles a day, did a hundred pull-ups a day, did pushups with weight on my back. I also meditated a lot. I did yoga and even started teaching these, like 250-pound gangstamoke guys how to practice yoga, which was a trip! But mostly I meditated about surfing—surfing a lot in my head.

FSM: And then a year later you got out and what?

BC: I got out and went for a surf and felt, of course, super wobbly and slow. But my friends were like, “Do the Surf Into Summer, Billy.” I had less than two weeks to practice, but I’d just get in the water at Bowls and stay in for like eight hours at a time. Then, obviously, I won the contest.

I can tell you though, that feeling of accepting that trophy after a year in prison, of winning like that and realizing my potential, to me, that was pure freedom.

FSM: What’s next for Billy Choi?

BC: Well, I’m still looking at 20 years. That will be decided in November.

I encourage anyone who knows me to show their support: show up at the courtroom, write letters to the judge, anything is appreciated. Other than that, I’m getting back on the WQS—the first full-blooded Korean pro surfer, too! I’m also giving back to the community, leading some beach cleanups as well as some functions involving the Boys and Girls Club of Honolulu on both the North Shore and in Town. Other than that, just staying positive and enjoying and being thankful for every single minute I have here on earth. Prison will make you do that.

F O R D T H E

A R C H B O L D

B A L A N C E RVCA .COM

•

O F

O P P O S I T E S

RVCAANPQ.COM

INFO@ RVCA .COM

These Boots Were Made For Surfing

inside section

Vans and 3 Feet Tall recently hosted a foot-forward party at 39 Hotel Street to celebrate a shoe released by Vans and KICKS HI. One may ask, “Why all the commotion for a pair of shoes?” and understandably so.

However, this wasn’t a celebration for any ordinary shoe.

The powers of Vans and KICKS HI created a unique, sleek and extremely limited-edition shoe. How limited? This shoe is only being released in four cities throughout the U.S. Shift it into low—that’s exclusive. It might as well be considered a super shoe, especially after it inspired a super party. So keep your toes attentive and on the lookout for this rare super-boot, for—as you might have guessed—supplies are limited. —Noa Myers

Park and Ride

The Ala Wai Small Boat Harbor is the jump-off point for three of the most heavily trafficked waves on the south shore: Kaiser’s, Rockpile and Ala Moana Bowls. To add insult to injury, finding a spot to park is as elusive as getting a wave to yourself.

Joel Centeio tests the water in the “tub.” In reality, Rubber Duckies is very dangerous. Insanely sharp lava rock called a‘a, fronts the break as Joel s-turns gracefully through the boils.

Good luck kiddies... Photo: Baeseman

5

Here’s what you’re up against:

• An average of 753 surfers over the course of a summer’s day spread out across the three breaks.

lamest

names

It seems like every rideable ripple in Hawai‘i has been dubbed, so there are sure to be some horrific monikers.

With that in mind, here are the lamest of them all.

Ready to paddle out?

R

• About 300 free parking stalls.

• A minimum of 15 minutes driving around or waiting for parking.

Review Freesurf magazine

ROBIN’S RANDOMS II

1. Rubber Duckies, O‘ahu – How can you feel at all like a man surfing a spot named after a baby’s bath toy, especially on the North Shore?

2. Piddleys, O‘ahu – Are you supposed to surf here or piss here?

4. Turkey Bay, O‘ahu – This is a prime example of one small stretch of reef with a name for every bend and boil. Let’s get real and just call it Gas Chambers.

5. Secrets, All Islands – Obviously, if it’s named on the Internet and in the guide books, it ain’t much of a secret.

30

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Nelly/SPL

3. Donkey Beach, Kaua‘i – Even if you’re ripping, you’re still a donkey.

The entire O‘ahu surf community came together for Randoms II, the second surf flick from local movie producer/surfboard shaper Robin Johnston. Jazz Minds lounge was seemingly packed beyond capacity for the screening, making it a shoulder-to-shoulder affair in the small club, but the stoke level remained high

nonetheless.

Dozens of conversations crashed in the air and the impromptu costume party had cowboys and Indians vying for the best seats in the house. Like its predecessor, Randoms II emphasizes unknown, yet talented surfers who charge purely for the love of the lifestyle. The feature was filled with perfect waves from New Zealand, undisclosed locations in the South Pacific and, of course, Hawai‘i. “I’m really stoked at how the second movie came out,” said Robin. “I learned a lot from the first movie and was able to apply that knowledge to the second film.”

Both Randoms I and II can be downloaded for free at RJsurf.com.

How’s that for economic stimulus? —Noa Myers

Piko

Surf Journalism Is Born Lt. James King Records the First Account of Surfing

By Tom Pohaku Stone

In January 1778 Capt. James Cook arrived in the islands of Hawai‘i for the first time.

From information derived from his journal, Cook sailed past the island of O‘ahu heading northwest towards the island of Kaua‘i, where he made landfall at Waimea. The Ali‘i Nui of this island at the time was Ka‘eo, whom was mistakenly told by his kahuna that it was the great akua Lono who had returned as promised. This assumption by the Hawaiian people that Cook was Lono is based on the physical similarity of his ship to that of the great Lono akua staff that symbolized the return of Lono and the coming of the Makahiki celebrations. After some time on the island, Capt. Cook was re-supplied and departed to continue his search for the Northwest Passage, his officers and crew having mingled with the native people, leaving tuberculosis and venereal diseases that would in one-years time spread throughout all the islands of Hawai‘i.

Almost a year later, Cook returned to Hawai‘i, this time coming from the north heading south. His ships were sighted off of Mokuho‘oniki and Kahakuloa, Maui in November 1778. News traveled quickly of the return of Lono. While the HMS Discovery and Resolution sailed through the islands, a great battle was taking place on the Ko‘olau side of the island between Kalani‘opu‘u (Ali‘inui of Hawai‘i Island) and Kahekili (Ali‘inui of Maui). Cook made landfall December 2, 1778 at Kukuipahu, Big Island taking on provisions and making contact with the natives. Cook then sailed on, passing Hamakua, Hilo, Puna, Ka‘u and anchored at Kealakekua Bay on January 17, 1779.

Capt. Cook eventually set sail on February 4, 1779, but due to a decayed mast, returned to Kealakekua Bay for repairs. It was at this time the Hawaiian people became suspicious and did not believe this was the great akua Lono because the time of Lono had past. With his welcome at an end, Cook was killed by the Hawaiian people when he made a misguided attempt to kidnap their high chief Kalani‘opu‘u to force the return of a stolen row boat.

Lieutenant James King was made First Lieutenant of the Discovery and was given the task of completing the narrative portion of Cook’s journals. After Cook’s death in 1779, but before the Discovery and Resolution returned to England, Lt. King devoted two full pages to a description of surfboard riding, as practiced by the locals at Kealakekua Bay on the Kona coast of the Big Island. His following entry is the earliest written account of surfing: Continued on page 34

Photo: Heff

32

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Ola Eleogram Wears The Syntax

anarchyeyewear.com

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

33

Piko Continued from page 32

Courtesy Hawai‘i State Archives Early artistic representation of surfing in Hawai‘i

But a diversion the most common is upon the Water, where there is a very great Sea, and surf breaking on the Shore. The Men sometimes 20 or 30 go without the Swell of the Surf, & lay themselves flat upon an oval piece of plan about their Size and breadth, they keep their legs close on top of it, & their Arms are us’d to guide the plank, thye wait the time of the greatest Swell that sets on Shore, & altogether push forward with their Arms to keep on its top, it sends them in with a most astonishing Velocity, & the great art is to guide the plan so as always to keep it in a proper direction on the top of the Swell, & as it alters its direct. If the Swell drives him close to the rocks before he is overtaken by its break, he is much prais’d. On first seeing this very dangerous diversion I did not conceive it possible but that some of them must be dashed to mummy against the sharp rocks, but jus before they reach the shore, if they are very near, they quit their plank, & dive under till the Surf is broke, when the piece of plank is sent many yards by the force of the Surf from the beach. The greatest number are generally overtaken by the break of the swell, the force of which they avoid, diving and swimming under the water out of its impulse. By such like exercises, these men may be said to be almost amphibious. The Women could swim off to the Ship, & continue half a day in the Water, & afterwards return. The above diversion is only intended as an amusement, not a tryal of skill, & in a gentle swell that sets on must I conceive be very pleasant, at least they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion which this Exercise gives.

Thus, Lieutenant James King, commander of the Discovery, 1779, recorded in the ship’s log the first written description of surfing by a European as we have come to know it today.

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

HAVE IT YOUR WAY

*Price and participation may vary. TM & Š 2008 Burger King Brands, Inc. All rights reserved.

36

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Chad Thurman

The Curious Case of

Buttons Kaluhiokalani

By Beau Flemister

This is not the story of an old man who grew backwards. Nor the story of a young boy who never grew into a man. It is the story of a man who inconsequentially never really lost the boy within him. In that boy is a power that refuses to be shooed away by the complacency of adulthood.

I

t is a light from within—call it youth, call it stoke—that is relentless, imaginative and forever hopeful. It’s a light that radiates from Buttons Kaluhiokalani in his smile, words and glinting eyes.

It’s the same straining glow that flickers within the more surrendered nine-to-fivers, the students and workers gazing out their office windows noticing limp leaves on palm trees, anxiously biting their lips, nearly erupting from their seats to get out of the office and into the surf. Buttons is the embodiment of this light and energy. From street rat to hunted bounty, towering heights to abysmal lows, he is the keeper of the flame that will not be blown out.

I’m welcomed into Buttons’ home—the top floor of a typical North Shore surf pad walking distance of Backyards—by him, his wife, young son and visiting mother-in-law. His wife, Hiriata, witty, gorgeous and the sister of Tahitian surf legend Raimana Van Bastolaer, offers us juice. On the verge of commencing the interview, Buttons excuses himself with a grin, “Gotta change Nuutea’s diaper.” And Buttons, the father, is off to work. We begin to talk, but this is not the story of a man’s mistakes. As the conversation progressed

I was pondering the right time to ask and he was anticipating my inquiry into the whole “Dog” ordeal.

But again, this is not the story of a man’s hardships or provocative past.

“Hey, I made a lot of bad choices along the way,” says Buttons, sincerely, “got mixed up with drugs and addiction. But now it’s about how blessed I am with another chance in my life to do my best. How good things are right now.”

Of course, we discussed his past a bit. Growing up, he was a Waik’s rat. Back then and still today he is one of the very few half-black, half-Hawaiian surfers to shine in the sport, let alone change it completely like he and his peers did. But as he said, “As a kid, we kinda just ran wild.” He went to school for a time, but didn’t finish. By that age, in between sweeping the contest circuit, getting rides out to Country and basically inventing a newer, faster, more creative style of riding a surfboard, graduation didn’t quite fit into the picture. Plus, he was making cash.

By the late ’70s, Buttons and best friend, Mark Liddell, were leading the original New School, blending 360s, tailslides, aerials and other skate-

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

37

Photo: Heff

inspired maneuvers with powerful rail surfing and classic tuberiding, revealing to the world the sport’s living future. He was featured in such breakthrough surf films like Many Classic Moments and A Matter of Style, among others. He was riding for George Downing’s old company.

Other sponsorships followed along with trips to the Mainland and beyond for contests, along with parties, and inevitably, drugs.

“Tell him about your surf school, Buttons!” chimes in Hiriata. Buttons and I grin at each other, but I get it. The drugs. Buttons battled drug addiction, on and off, for a couple of decades, most recently climaxing in front of the public eye on national television on the program “Dog the Bounty Hunter,” showing a wild-eyed Buttons being caught, cuffed and taken away to jail for jumping bail on drug charges.

“But I’ve been clean for some time now,” exclaims Buttons, “and going to church. I’ve realized my wife Hiriata and family are things that help me and that I don’t want to lose. The drugs are always there, which is the problem for some people; they’re always available. My advice to the kids these days is to stay in school and finish, live a healthy life, be active and surf if that’s what makes you happy. Eat healthy and put good things into your body.” Ironically, besides a weathered face with the creases and cracks awarded by time, Buttons’ fast-timesabused body hasn’t looked healthier, as if he was almost growing younger.

“That’s a discipline,” says Buttons about training. “Besides surfing every day, I’ve always had a strict, nearly obsessive work-out routine to Continued on page 40

38

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

Ironically, besides a weathered face with the creases and cracks awarded by time, Buttons’ fast-times-abused body hasn’t looked healthier, as if he was almost growing younger.

Photo: Rock

Photo: Heff

Continued from page 38

keep my body fit.”

“And the surf school!” adds Hiriata.

Oh yeah, The Buttons Surf School, Buttons’ most recent and definitely most suiting business endeavor. “It’s awesome, man. I mean, seeing that look on people’s faces when they’re learning to surf, when they’re actually getting it; that’s what it’s all about,” says Buttons. And this makes perfect sense.

A man who is the embodiment of stoke, the eternal grom, passing this feeling to others, feeding off his students’ newly concepted vibrations and stoke; you couldn’t learn from a better teacher. Buttons also participates regularly with the group Access Hawaii, an organization that has volunteers and professional surfers teach handicapped and disabled people how to surf and have a great time together in the ocean.

We’re running out of things to talk about. Our attentions begin to stray, both drifting towards the obvious thought on this waning afternoon: there’s about an hour-and-a-half of sunlight left to surf on.

But frankly, I’m a little amazed. I guess I shouldn’t be, but I am: how warm, honest and genuinely open Buttons has been during the interview; How thankful and gracious he’s been to me for being given a chance to share his life. And these days, that unpredictable life of his is looking pretty damn stable. And with a wife like Hiriata and a growing family, the future looks bright, too. We all hug goodbye, say our alohas, and I leave his home feeling oddly energized. Like I want to surf. Like I want to share this infectious feeling with others around me. Like a kid again.

40

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Rock

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

41

APERTURE

is the New winter Just when you thought the winter season had ended, when the last of those lingering little Sunset Point and Rocky Rights sessions were closing down shop; just when you thought you could get some work done, the south shore decided to wake up from its 20-year slumber. Plain and simple, there have been non-stop waves, every single day, for the last month and a half. Even more, there have been at least two 6-foot-plus swells every week. Bowls has been off its rocker, proving itself a truly world-class wave. But then there are also those 60 other breaks from Sandy Beach to Ka‘ena Point that have been firing for weeks on end. To be blunt, O‘ahu hasn’t seen a summer season this good since the Buttons and Bertlemann Five Summer Stories days. There were even rumors of secret spots turning on that rival the power of North Shore locales; a rarity to say the least. That’s why we’re calling the summer of 2009, The New Winter. —Beau Flemister

42

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Jason Frederico, reaping the fruits of a southern-hemi harvest. Photo: Baeseman F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

43

44

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

left: Crystal Dzigas, perched on the nose of surfing’s roots. Photo: Walshy top: Fred Patacchia, launching above the crowds at Ala Moana Bowls. Photo: Lemos above: China Walls might be a novelty wave, but Portlock is world class at 6 feet.

Photo: Lemos

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

45

46

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

left: Randall Paulson, experiencing dĂŠja vu at dawn. Photo: Baeseman above: Kahea Hart soaring through a big tail slide at Big Rights.

Photo: Heff

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

47

Alessa Quizon, lighting it up.

48

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Heff

Zeke Lau full speed ahead at Half Point.

Photo: Baeseman

50

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

Ross Williams, keeping the momentum going and sharp as ever.

Photo: Heff

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

51

top: Sailing for survival. Photo: Ballenger above: With a pedigree dating back to surfing’s origins, Diamond Head has seen it all.

52

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Heff

top: Curtis Cuba, proving Bowls handles all types of watercraft. middle left: Charlie Carroll hits the dial at noon. Photo: Heff

Photo: Baeseman

mid right: Unidentified packs the Big Bowl. above: Buoy 4 takes a reading. Photo: Heff

Photo: Heff

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

53

Teppei Tajima, Japan’s latest export to Hawai‘i.

54

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Latronic

Ian Soutar, classic lines.

Photo: Latronic

above: Joel Centeio gliding into the glare. Photo: Baeseman top right: Kekoa Bacalso going above and beyond this summer. Photo: Latronic middle: Following his bother’s line, Koa Rothman gets deftly slotted. Photo: Heff bottom: Kekoa Cazimero acid dropping Waik-l k-. l Photo: Baeseman

56

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

57

Gallery photos available at FreeSurfmagazine.com

58

F R E E S U R F MA G A ZIN E.CO M

Ulus comes to Town, Randall Paulson.

Photo: Heff

F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

59

10.5 ways to rage in town

60

1. Surf every wave from Lighthouse to Kewalos in a weekend (there’s at least 31 that we know of).

2. Pick up a beater of a board at a garage sale and ride that beast to the ground.

3. Find yourself a new peak: There's no way you've surfed every wave in Town...yet.

4. Surf Point Panic.

5. Score all day and don’t tell anyone.

6. Burn a tourist and don’t apologize.

7. Give a bum a ham sandwich.

8. Rock a puka shell necklace in the lineup. Retro is in, right?

9. Snorkel the Ala Wai. 10. Surf Queen’s at night.

10.5 ... Naked.

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Photo: Heff

F RE E SUR F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

61

Surf Art

The Dragon Line Artist Silas Stoddard

By Siri Masterson

Humans communicate with each other using a dazzling array of language, body movement and art. We feel it is necessary to express ourselves through different outlets whether it be surfing, the type of car we drive or the music we listen to.

Simply put, it's a fundamental part of being human and some people make it their lives. Silas Stoddard, a humble artist residing in Pu-pu-kea, believes that “the arts by which we choose to live can give meaning to our lives, help us adapt to change, express it and create chances for it.”

As far as he can remember, Silas looked to art as a source of contentment. When he was a boy, his father would take him to the basement and draw on a large sheet of paper spread out on a seemingly endless desk. Silas would watch his father, carefully trying at the other side of the paper to mimick his dad’s skill. “My dad was really talented, but never pursued art. He is definitely my inspiration,” reminisces Silas. Armed with a Bachelor of Fine Arts from the University of Arizona, the childhood endeavor of becoming an artist is now his passion and focus.

Silas paints many different styles and subjects. Although pop art with a retro appeal is his latest medium, he also paints and draws landscapes, portraits and a variety of other subjects. Even if gallery owners prefer to stick with artists who have a consistent motif, Silas says he is too ADD to get trapped in any particular style. True to his nature, he is equally erratic with the types of canvases and paints he uses and is constantly evolving and finding new approaches to his expression. “I’ve been exploring retro surf icons like Eddie Aikau and larger-than-life figureheads like Barack Obama. I love pop art because one can look at a painting and read it right away; the paintings are in your face,” says the soft-spoken artist.

Silas works on commission, painting portraits and selling original work through his website. He says his love is oil painting, but lately he has been using acrylic and enamel spray paints, be put on a hard surface. Using wood instead of canvas lacquer, provides a more solid backing to his large, bold and anything noticeable pieces. His pop art work has been seen all that can over Chinatown at many different venues, most recently at Cedar Streets Gallery and Chinatown Boardroom.

For August and September he will be hosting a show at Town restaurant and Steven Michael’s Salon in Kaimuki. “I’m not proud. I’ll put my art up for anybody who is interested it,” says Stoddard. His latest long term project is with ‘Iolani Palace to paint an artist’s rendition on historical events that happened in and around the palace. “The history around the palace is infinite and I have to approach this project with the

62

Continued on page 64 F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

Sk8 Girl

They’re to live for

hawaii 74-5483 Kaiwi St. Big Island, Hawaii 808-329-3335

66-560 Kam Hwy Haleiwa, HawAii 808-637-4573

Surf Art

Eyes Say Everything

Eddie Aikau

Star Girl

Fight Girl Continued FROM page 62

utmost sensitivity, but I know I want make it very conceptual,” he explains.

“My art has been a kind of a narrative pulled from experience and at other times a snapshot of lyrical imagery spit onto the canvas,” Stoddard says of his work. “I strive to create work that becomes aware, honestly forcefull, and vast.” As he continues to explore a variety of avenues and subject matters his aesthetic vision often consists of interactions between feminine and masculine elements of design, as demonstrated in his bold and most recent works. His teacher and mentor, Bruce McGrew, years ago introduced him to the concept of a “dragon line,” the visible light that weaves the invisible world. Seeing how art is all about negotiating light and its reflection on different subjects, he has made it his personal mantra to live by and says, “It’s the best way to look at the natural world and feel connected to it.”

64

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

News & events

the San Clemente Stomp Zeke Lau, Ian Gentil and Malia Manuel bring the hammer down at the NSSA Nationals All photos: A.J. Neste

[Kolohe Andino]

Every year groms from across the country descend upon Lower Trestles with a vengeance in an effort to claim the title of America’s next top surfer. Taking a quick glance at the history of NSSA National Championships is like a who’s who in professional surfing. Andy Irons, Freddy P. and Clay Marzo cut from the golden cloth have all had their damp feet placed on the winner’s podium at Lowers. Simply put, winning a national title is often a slingshot into surfing’s Big Leagues.

Although the Hawai‘i surfers didn’t sweep the podium with the same vigor they have in years past, we did have a few standouts. Among those bearing some gold was Honolulu’s Zeke Lau who took a mighty scalp by winning the Explorer Juniors division. Interestingly enough, by winning a national title, Lau is putting an end to a bet that he would shave his dome

[Ian Gentil]

66

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

[Lakey Peterson]

until he was crowned a national champ.

“I’ve been shaving my head for so long that I’m definitely growing something ridiculous now that I’ve won,” said Lau. “I was thinking like maybe an afro or even cornrows or something.”

Other Hawai‘i surfers to claim victory at this year’s Nationals included Ian Gentil, who threw down a litany of style mixed with progressive turns that left the industry bigwigs carefully evaluating the young lad and his future in the sport.

Kaua‘i’s Malia Manuel also took home a title to the Garden Island.

Along with her US Open win last year, Malia’s looking primed for greatness. The North Shore’s Kiron Jabour also became a national champ by dominating his Explorer Juniors final. —Jeff Mull

[Malia Manuel]

News & events

Kewalo Showdown

Albee Layer punts his way to junior pro victory All photos: Heff

[Tanner Hendrickson]

[Matt Meola] With the slew of contests that infiltrate O‘ahu’s south shore during the summer, it’s safe to say that at least one of the events is destine to score good waves. After a two-week string of competions, the lucky recipient was the ASP Hawai‘i Quiksilver Pro Junior at Kewalo Basin. The oneday event lucked out and Hawai‘i’s top junior pros tackled head-high to double-over-head peaks, perfect for the progressive surfing of Hawai‘i’s top under-21 rippers.

With absent heavy hitters like current ASP Junior World Champion Kai Barger, Kiron Jabour and Keanu Asing, the door was left open for the remainder of Hawai‘i’s deep talent pool to take the spotlight. The day started off with the peak of the swell and offered plenty of waves during the four-man heats. With many of the bigger sets closing out, wave selection became key.

An early standout heat saw Ezekiel Lau, fresh off his win from the Quiksilver King of the Groms the day before, Continued on page 70

68

F R E E S U R F M AG A ZIN E.CO M

[Albee Layer]

[Kaimana Jaquias]

News & events Continued from page 68

take on Maui’s Tanner Hendrickson and female phenom Carissa Moore. With fourth-man Ian Gentil a no show, it could have been a three-man final as these surfers battled it out to the sound of the horn, proving that the level of competition was intense.

By the quarters, the bomb sets subsided, leaving clean workable rights for the competitors to tear apart.

It became evident that the Maui boys came to play, taking up more than half of the round. Kaimana Jaquias, advancing in the first semi, would ensure there wouldn’t be an all-Maui final. With Granger Larsen and Albee Layer in the second semifinal heat, two of Maui’s best would face off in what would be one of the most exciting heats of the contest. In the end, Albee would get the nod from the judges by throwing caution to wind and punting a lofty, tweaked-out air reverse.

The final was extremely close, Jaquias and Layer putting together unique combos of barrels and fins-free turns. Kaimana was in the lead with priority at the end of the heat and with a set approaching, took off on the first wave to prevent Albee from getting a score. Unfortunately, the wave of the day was right behind it and Albee had no trouble sliding through the barrel and finishing the wave strong, earning a perfect 10 and an over-sized, $2,000 cardboard check for taking the win. “I was waiting and all of a sudden it just rose up,” said a stoked Layer. “Frick, I was all scared to blow it, but it was too perfect to blow, so it worked out good.” Yes Albee, it worked out good.

—Tyler Rock

[Billy Kemper]

70

F R E E S U R FM AG A ZIN E.CO M

[Landon McNamara]

Sterling Silver Steak Plate!

‘Ono Beach Time Kau Kau,

SUN SAT FRI

THU WED TUE MON

STERLING SILVER STEAK PLATE SCHEDULE Kahala / Liliha / Royal Kunia Kaimuki McCully / Waipahu Aiea / Beretania Kailua / Ko’olau / McCully / Waimalu Kaneohe / Royal Kunia Ko’olau

(Serving Times: 11am - 6pm all stores Except Waimalu: 11am - 7pm)

Manulele Productions Specializing in water SportS action & lifeStyle

Photo / Video Production scriPting directing shooting editing stock footage

water photography & videography jet Ski certified

manulele, Inc.

808-638-7395 ml@freesurfmagazine.com

Free plugs

1 Alana Blanchard

2 Harry Hilliar

Photo: Heff

Photo: Mike Hilliar

ASP Women’s World Tour rookie Alana Blanchard (1) seared the mainstream media by gracing the pages of Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair magazines.

Harry Hilliar (2), a photography graduate from Plymouth, was the only UK first-time competitor to take part in this year’s World Deaf Surf Competition in Waik-lk-l. The United States Deaf Surfriders Association (USDSA) hosted the competition, which was first held in 2001, and has since been held in Australia and Japan.

Garrett McNamara (3) made an agreement with Isle Surfboards to design G-Mac-branded stand-up paddle surfboards.

Three styles of boards are being manufactured: Da Monstah for family fun and beginners, Da Cruiser for flat water and small surf, and Da Annihlator for experienced riders. Da Monstah is currently available through Isle Surfboard’s website Islesurfboards.com with the other models to follow shortly.

Ezekiel Lau (4) won the Quiksilver King of the Groms qualifier and has his sights on France to compete against 15 other Kings from around the world.

Free plugs

3 Garrett McNamara

Photo: Heff

7 N. Market Street, Wailuku // 808.249.0215 10 - 6pm M - F // 10 - 3 Sat. www.mauithing.com

ORIGINAL MAUI CLOTHING :: MEN :: WOMEN :: KIDS photo :: ben pigao

5

4 Ezekiel Lau

Photo: Latronic

Dakine went tech with their new mobile website, Dakine.com/mobile, which is compatible with most media-rich-enabled cell phones. When connected to a high-speed wireless or 3G network, users can experience optimum performance of streaming music and video clips. Featured products, team riders, news sections, sponsored bands and a retail store locator round out the mobile site highlights.

Jamba Hawaii, Hawaiian Telcom and Skywave Broadband have installed WiFi hotspots at all Jamba Hawaii locations (excluding

UH campus). Hawaiian Telcom High-Speed Internet (HSI) subscribers receive free WiFi access using their existing email and password.

Eco-conscious clothing company, Organik, (5) recently introduced the Beach Bum Bag made from recycled 100% Kona coffee burlap bags, recycled cotton and sailing rope.

TheOrganik.com The inaugural Xcel Supertubes Showdown was taken by Ryan Payne in an epic, barrel-fest final.

Keanu Asing (6) won the ASP Grade-4 Nike 6.0 Pier Pressure presented by Jack’s Surfboards at the Huntington Beach Pier, an integral stop in all surfers’ campaigns in their quest for qualification

Free plugs

6 Keanu Asing

Photo: Heff

Surf art by Elise Nicole

OceanGirlArt.com

Island smoothIes i Bowl on the north sho re Da’ Best aça

• AçAI BOWLS • SMOOTHIES • BURGERS & HOT DOGS • ICE-CREAM & SNACKS • COLD DRINKS • COFFEE • ENERGY DRINKS • BIKINIS & ISLAND JEWELERY

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK @ DILLINGHAM AIRFIELD (NEXT TO SKYDIVE HAWAII) MOKULEIA

7 Pancho Sullivan

for the ASP World Junior Championships. Asing battled through the tough conditions on offer on the south side of the pier, blasting strong outside turns on the set waves and working his way through the infamous reform, finishing each wave with a bevy of strong maneuvers.

INDOBOARD Balance Trainers are available at: Aloha Board Shop Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Moku Hawaii ■ Tropical Rush ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ Kai Kane ■ Hi Tech Sports W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M ■ ■

Kalani Vierra photos: Gibber

8 Kekoa Cazimero

Photo: Latronic

Pancho Sullivan (7) teamed up with the new H20 Overdrive, from Innovative Health Solutions, a new and unique great-tasting hydration drink specifically formulated for hydration at the cellular level.

Photo: Baeseman

Kekoa Cazimero (8) has a new limited-edition signature Hurley boardshort on the racks called the “Koa Boi.” Part of the proceeds of the sale of the boardshorts will go to the Koa Tree Foundation.

Marty Thomas is re-planting back to the North Shore as the new managing director of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

Wipeout In volume 6 number 7, the article “Riding With Koa” is about Kekoa Cazimero, not Kekoa Bacalso. Sorry Koas.

spaghettini

6/9/06

3:28 PM

Page 1

Essence of Aloha with Trella Trella Costa - Personal Trainer/Therapeutic Massage Therapist Lic.#3437 59-615 Kawoa Place, Hale‘iwa Hawai‘i, 96712 808 542-7362 • trellamakuakai@yahoo.com

Cara Mia DAY SPA

Ka‘ala Healing Arts

Carolyn M. Bosanko 66-216 Farrington Hwy #102 Licensed Aesthetician

Waialua, HI 96791

Appointments available 7 days a week

(808) 753-5055

❀ Pure Organic Facials & Age Defying Treatments

❀ Waxing • Lash Tint & Perm ❀ Incredible Organic Peels AHA • BHA • Special Pumpkin & Fruit Peels

❀ Serums • Perfect C 20% ❀ High Frequency Treatment ❀ Electro-Accuscope & Myopulse Therapy

Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa

637-0104

Last Look

76

F R E E S U R FMA G A ZIN E.CO M

This photo available at FreeSurfmagazine.com

Had enough of SUPs taking over the lineups?

One skipper answers back. Photo: Heff F RE E SU R F M A G A Z I NE . C O M

77