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Xtreme or Xstupid: Car Surfing pg.28

North Shore Larger

MAGAZINE

Simply Epic

Than Life Waimea Bay’s Surfing Roots

FREESURFMAGAZINE.COM

[Bruce Irons] Photo: Baeseman VOLUME 6 NUMBER 1

“I actually do my best surfing when I’m mad…”

Flynn Novak Speaks Up

KOBY ABBERTON

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M A T T A L EX

KN O ST KA LA N I

DA N IEL DAVID

A R C H B O L D

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Photo: Heff

This wave has enough meat on its ribs to feed a family of four. Kawai Lindo getting his fill.

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DOUBLE FR EE SU

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Photo: Heff

Want to know where the future of surfing is going? Here’s a hint: Look up. Timmy Reyes, punting light years ahead.

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42 Ka Mana Nui O Waimea

Everything you should know about The Bay

48 In Like Flynn Flynn Novak won’t settle for less

58 Sessions

[Josh Kerr]

Photo: Baeseman

Mid-winter splender

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Photo: Baeseman

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FREE PARKING Kawai Lindo

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DOUBLE PARKED Timmy Reyes

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COVER STORY Bruce Irons

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MASTHEAD

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EDITOR’S NOTE Feeling Versus Luck

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FREE TIME GALLERY Eh, Howzit!

28 INSIDE SECTION Car Surfing // Koby Abberton // Da Hui Beach Cleanup // Pro Surfing Con Man // Uncle Keoni 32 WHATEVAS Triple Crown of Tennis 34

GROM REPORT Seth Moniz

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SURF SCIENCE Keeping Afloat

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SURF ART Shannon O’Connell

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NEWS & EVENTS Xcel Pro Sunset

80 PAU HANA The Chungs

WARRIOR WWW.HAWAIIANOPTICS.COM

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FREE PLUGS Industry Notes

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LAST LOOK Fins Free

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Photo: Baeseman

FR EE SU

cover

Labor Of Love It’s never an easy task putting together a monthly surf magazine.

Sure, it’s a labor of love, but there’s a whole lot more that goes into the glossy pages spread before you than most people realize. Late ads filtering through, computers crashing, breaking stories coming to light, the constant barrage of breath-taking photos…it’s enough to drive many a sane man mad. But there was one thing this month that went down as smooth as butter, and that’s this issues cover shot of Bruce Irons at Backdoor. It’s a win-win shot: a massive, throaty backdoor pit and everyone’s favorite badass, Bruce Irons, deftly slotted.

Bruce has been a staple element in the pages of Freesurf since its inception six years ago, garnering himself more than a few spreads along the way. And Backdoor? Well, it’s safe to say that she’s been about as important to the health of this magazine as the glue that binds its pages. So when the two came together in this iconic Baeseman shot, it was a bit of a no-brainer.

It’s winter here in Hawai‘i and there’s more swell forecasted than we really know what to do with. So with that being said, we’re putting this issue to bed, adding an “out of office” reply on our email, and planning on putting in a few marathon sessions along the way. Here’s hoping you do the same… —Jeff Mull

On The Cover: Bruce Irons Photo: Baeseman

ALPINESTARS.COM

photo Wolcott

NATHANIEL CURRAN

H a w aii’s P r e mie r e Oc e a n A r t G alle r ie s

WYLANDGA L L ERI ES

at Wyland Galleries Haleiwa

Featuring: Walfrido Garcia, Steven Power, John Severson, Heather Brown, Clark Little, and other surf artists

A product of Manulele Inc. VOLUME 6 • NUMBER 1 publisher MIKE LATRONIC editorial --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------editor KEVIN WHITTON associate editor JEFF MULL content manager TONY HEFF free thinkers BEAU FLEMISTER, JACK KITTINGER, IAN MASTERSON, LOGAN MOCK-BUNTING, NOA MYERS design ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------art director RICHARD HUTTER staff photographers ERIC BAESEMAN, TONY HEFF, JUSTIN RIDDLEBERGER, TYLER ROCK

Heather Brown

contributing photographers

NATHAN ADAMS, ERIK AEDER, SCOTT AICHNER, BERNIE

BAKER, JAMIE BALLENGER, MARK BERKOWITZ, BRIAN BIELMANN, JOHN BILDERBACK, BO BRIDGES, VINCE CAVATAIO, DAREN CRAWFORD, HILTON DAWE, BEN DECAMP, DOOMAS, DAMEA DORSEY, WILLI EDWARDS, BRANDON ELLS, BEAU FLEMISTER, HANK FOTO, ISAAC FRAZER, PETE FRIEDEN, KENNY GIBBS, STU GIBSON, GORDINHO, YHAZI GRAHAM, HAJ, JOHN HEPLER, JON HUBERMAN, ERIK IPPEL, JOLI, BUZZY KERBOX, DANNY KIM, PETER KING, LANCIFER, RIC LARSEN, BRUNO LEMOS, CARL LUCAS, MANA, MIKE MCGINNIS, IKAIKA MICHAELS, JUSTIN MORIZONO, ALLEN MOZO, NOA MYERS, NOA, DAVE NELSON, CAROL OLIVA, SERGIO OLIVERA, BRUCE OMORI, BRADY OSHIRO, MANNY PANGILINAN, CHRISTIAN PERALTA, JIM RUSSI, PAKE SALMON, EPES SARGENT, BOBBY SCHUTZ,

John Severson

SPENCER SUITT, BILL TAYLOR, TK, KEVIN WHITTON, DARRELL WONG

Clark Little

sales ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------director of sales and marketing SEAN WINGATE advertising executive SHAUN LOPEZ business coordinator CORA SANCHEZ executive assistant SIRI MASTERSON advertising inquiries -----------------------------------------------------------------------contact 808-429-8460 or swingate@freesurfmagazine.com www.freesurfmagazine.com

Steven Valiere

Christie Shinn

FreeSurf Magazine is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FreeSurf on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newstands.

Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com.

Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the Editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates will not be responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or the return of these submissions.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 Email editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

Wade Koniakowsky

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Wyland Galleries Haleiwa North Shore Marketplace 66-250 H Kamehameha Hwy.

(808) 954-4000

(808) 637-8729

Wyland Galleries Waikiki 270 Lewers St. (next to QUIKSILVER)

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And don’t forget Board Stories on Mondays at 2pm, Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm, Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm and Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

’s NOoTtEe R’S EEDdiITtOor FR EE SU

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Photo: Heff

[Sebastian Ziets]

Getting to Know Lady Luck

By Kevin Whitton Book signings are not the most exciting endeavor for an emerging author.

Sitting quietly at a folding table, watching people pass you by without a glance and waiting for someone to stop and show interest, thankfully punctuated by an actual sale here and there. Nothing like a famous author or individual, riding a wave of popularity or notoriety and having a line of supporters bending around the building, people just itching to get their copy signed.

I was recently signing my new sustainable Hawai‘i homes book at Macy’s Customer Appreciation Night when two young men walked by the table like so many others had done, but one stopped short, took a few steps back in front of the table and said, “I feel like I should talk to you.” This 20-something-year-old curly haired bloke was not the typical demographic of folks that usually stop to chat, but his feeling turned out to be beneficial for both of us. He was a third-year student at the UH School of Architecture with a focus in sustainable building. Interested in the subject matter, he ended up buying a book.

Driving home later that night, his initial words kept bouncing around inside my head, especially “feel.” So often we fail to recognize the phenomenon of feeling or instinct.

Why did Kelly Slater paddle halfway up the point at Bells Beach, Australia in the dying minutes of a heat, to a spot where not a single wave had broken during the heat? The winning wave came right to him. Why did Dusty Payne say sayonara to a flat lineup during his semifinal heat during the Reef Hawaiian Pro? While the other competitors waited for

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waves that never came, Dusty snagged an insider at the horn, posting a high enough score to make it into the finals.

Was it feeling? Or was it luck?

Some guys surf good, real good, but have bad wave selection. Some guys may not be sultans of style, but they seem to always get the best waves. Set aside the “Uncle Factor” in the lineup and you have to wonder, how much of surfing is feeling and how much of it is luck? Does scoring good waves on a more regular basis equate to better surfing?

Let’s say a set is pouring through the lineup and five waves have gone by, five guys (or more) have taken off and you’re left out the back by yourself. As you paddle over that fifth wave you’re head is going crazy, just one more wave, just one more. Will there be another wave, or has the ocean gone flat? Can you “will” yourself a wave?

I believe that “feeling,” call it a subconscious intuition, comes with time spent in the ocean. Simply, the more you surf, the deeper the connection. For a life-long pursuant of this Sport of Kings, professional or recreational, the relationship is built with the continual addition of precious info to the memory banks with each session, a medley of surf, swell, tide and wind.

Naturally, a few individuals will always excel over the many: exhibiting superior judgment, power and finesse, completely in tune with the act at hand, acting and reacting from a sturdy foundation of feeling. And who knows, maybe some people can will waves their way. But for the rest of us non-superhuman surfers, luck might not be such a bad thing.

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EHHOWZIT! 1 Daize Shayne-Goodwin, enjoying life and a new last name. photo: Pake

2 Sage Erickson rolls shotgun in Coco Ho’s G-ride. Want to bet they’re singing “Single Ladies” at the top of their lungs? photo: Heff

7 It’s Christmas every day for this braddah. photo: Ballenger 8 Ulu Napiai, representing. photo: Baeseman 9 Dustin Barca draws inspiration. photo: Baeseman

3 Somebody said they were having a two-for-one sale at the surfshop, but this is even better. photo: Heff

10 Shane Beschen is casting for his new reality show: Hawai‘i Grom Idol. photo: Heff

4 Kamalei Alexander and the Ke Nui lowrider.

11 Nothing like handfuls of sand in your bottoms to get you in the water.

photo: Baeseman

photo: Heff

5 Jump on in ladies, the water’s fine. photo: Rock 6 “Hey, Uncle Buff, I think you’d look good with a blue mustache.” photo: Mana

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YOUR FAULT FOR SURFING ASPHALT

Car Surfing Proves Consequential The sport of surfing is ever expanding to include new factions. The ongoing search of how to surf in different mediums has inspired multiple perspectives on surfing. From stand-up bodyboards to stand-up paddleboards, from skateboarding to snowboarding, the sport has seen many different variations on how to ride the available elements.

Car surfing, a distant relative to wave riding, it was popularized by the 1985 movie, “Teen Wolf,” which featured a furry Michael J. Fox “surfing” on top of a van driven by his “friends” through town. It was a totally tubular scene and Michael threw a few radical turns, though his style could have used some refining. Thanks to furry Fox, car surfing came to be. Also dubbed “ghost riding,”—though that term is usually reserved for golf carts—the sport uses the term “surfing” rather loosely and requires a car with cruise control, a severe disregard for bodily harm, and preferably a wide, straight road.

Modern day car surfing is usually a result of extreme boredom and lack of sanity rather than a recessive werewolf gene. A quick search on YouTube.com will find a handful of daring mobile acrobats willing to risk it all for the thrill of surfing. Though slightly different than airdropping into a second-reef double up at Pipe on a dead low tide, the consequences are similar. Over an 18-year period, 58 fatal car surfing incidents have been reported in the U.S. with an average victim age of 17 years old.

Outliers include a few old school car-surf bums like 55-year-old chief financial officer of the city of Phoenix. Despite its popularity amongst the younger generation, doubts remain as to whether or not car surfing will go mainstream.

—Noa Myers

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Punch Drunk

Photo: Whitton

Jennifer Delgado

Australian charger and O‘ahu’s adopted son Koby Abberton made the type of appearance in O‘ahu that he would have rather done without—at Ka- ne‘ohe District Court. On Nov. 20, 2008 Koby pleaded no contest to the charge of assault in the third degree for pummeling harbor police officer last spring.

The altercation, which left the off-duty officer with two black eyes, happened outside Restaurant Epic in early March.

Koby was calm and relaxed as he entered the courtroom flanked by Kala Alexander and his brothers, Jai and Kai. After the judge determined Koby was of sound mind and understood the ramifications of a no contest plea (which is entered as a guilty plea), a verbal skirmish went down between the District Attorney and Koby’s lawyer as to the circumstances of the incident. Pegging Koby as a drunken instigator, the D.A. recommended six months jail time and a $2,000 fine for Abberton.

Having accepted responsibility for punching the man, arguing the act was in self defense, and with nothing stated on the police report indicating Koby was intoxicated, the judge was willing to “give Abberton the benefit of the doubt” and sentenced him to a six month period of deferment, a $255 fine and three days jail time with credit for one already served. “I’ll never be here again, I put my word on it,” said Abberton, and then thanked the judge for his time before being led out of the courtroom in cuffs.

Koby is scheduled to reappear back in Ka-ne‘ohe District Court on May 4, 2009 and if he meets all the requirements of the deferral, which is similar to probation, then he’ll be out from under O‘ahu’s judicial rug. —Kevin Whitton

Decepta-Conned

Surfing Con Man Strikes Surf Industry…Again He’s a slippery SOB, that Surfing Con Man. In case you’re not up to snuff on your industry gossip, for the past few years the surf industry has been duped more times than the Bush Administration by the illustrious “Surfing Con Man,” a man who swindles unsuspecting surfers and industry people into wiring him money by pretending to be a famous surfer in need of some quick cash.

Whomever the Surfing Con Man may be, he has a whole mess of insider knowledge and uses it to his advantage as he’s currently conned around a half-dozen surfers. Typically the Surfing Con Man will call an unsuspecting surfer or industry person pretending to be a

professional surfer, tell them a sob story about how he lost his plane tickets, wallets, etc. and then ask to have around $300 wired to him immediately.

Unfortunately, most of the time he’s been successful, and to date, he’s conned thousands of dollars from far too many would-be dogooders. It seems police have little interest in locking up the Surfing Con Man, as his $300 exploits don’t warrant their time. Which leaves it up to us. So stay frosty and on the lookout for the Surfing Con Man. If you have any information on the perp, we want to hear about it. Email info@freesurfmagazine.com.

—Jeff Mull

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photo: Baseman

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For the fourth year in a row, the Hui O He‘e Nalu in conjunction with the Wolfpak, organized a successful North Shore Beach Clean Up and Winter Surf Pa‘ina, the largest beach clean up in the state. Established as a way locals, visiting surfers and surf industry professionals could show their respect for the ocean and North Shore community, the event continues to grow every year, in attendance and importance.

The first 200 participants that showed up at the pre-clean up meeting at Velzyland Park on the morning of Saturday, Nov. 8, 2008 with a can of food received a free Da Hui sticker. Pro surfers Danny Fuller, Reef McIntosh and Tyler Newton were among the scores of others who combed the beaches from V-land to Hale‘iwa, over ten miles. The beach cleaning effort even took to Ke Nui Road and parts of the Kam Highway roadside.

And what would North Shore Beach Clean Up be without Eddie Rothman directing from the quad and Kala Alexander leading the pack with his red megaphone. The group effort wrapped up with a celebration including live music from Paula Fuga, Natural Vibrations and others. And the best reward of all: free food. —Kevin Whitton

Heff

Uncle Keoni Uncle, I broke my foot over the summer and now I am missing the winter surf season. When I see the waves pumping, I want to cry.

Is there anything you can recommend to help me stay sane?

—Heath Walkman, Waikiki Cos’ No be wan panty. You and Uncle goin’ get tru dis. Wan surfah wit wan broke’ foot is like wan i‘iwi bird wit wan broken wing. I goin’ give you tree choices bumbai I lick you if you no like ‘um. Opshen wan: fine wan chick. Wan han-some wahine is like wan epic wave; jes pu insai, faka. Opshen two: in dis life, metaphanorically speeking, you need fo’ make wan cutback in ya warhld-view, read wan book lo-lo head, even if da only wan you get is wan spank-spank magazine. Opshen tree: if Uncle no make da drop on wan Backdoor bomb, an’ Uncle get drilled, den wat? Wok ‘um off, faka. If no fit, put spit.

Haaaaaaah-waiian!

Uncle, what’s up with all the stand-up paddlers taking over the surf spots? I mean, it looks good when the pros do it, but most guys aren’t pro. And they’re dangerous because they can’t control their boards. And they hog the waves! What message can I send to these guys to get them to be more courteous in the lineup?

—Alex Trujillo, Waialua Alex, Like da haole, SUP should come kapu in Hawai‘i nei. Dis is not wan spaht. Uncle Duke an’ Bruddah Leroy wen stahted dis joke fo’ make money off da toureests at Queens meni meni yeas ago. Nao, da buggah stay outta hand. No make ‘um serious kine, bruddahs! Mattafact, I like get wan SUP bahd, bumbai I goin’ drop kick dees fakas.

Only ting can do right nao is make wan proposal fo’ make da whole Country wan SUP-free zone. Cos’, if one SUP guy try fo’ snake me, I jes tell ’um wat I wen told Dog da Hunta wen he wen come my aunty dem house fo’ search batu in Nanakuli, “Wat, boy! Like tchrow?! Like rahm-ble?!” Aftah dat, he wen leave fas’ kine.

Haaaaaaaaaaah-waiian!

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whatevas

PHOTO BY:

PITUR

30 – Love

It takes an elevated level of competitive want and desire to excel as a professional surfer, a mindset that is carried into everything they do.

From extracurricular sports to drinking games, pro surfers are known for giving it their all and sustaining competitive rivalries in and out of the water.

Golf has always been a mainstay sideline sport for surfers.

The quiet, peaceful setting, the connection with nature and intense concentration create a sport much like surfing, though physically much different. Ping-Pong is also a favorite. The ease of having a table in your garage sure beats greens fees and the element of competition is multiplied by the close proximity to your opponent.

Recently, tennis has risen in professional surfer popularity as an outlet of competitive drive and for its required physical endurance. Nathan Carroll came up with the idea to take the game which is frequently played between the boys on the road, and set up a tournament during the Van’s Triple Crown of Surfing for final on-court bragging rights. And so the North Shore Triple Crown of Tennis Tournament is born. —Kevin Whitton

FSM: So, where did you get the idea for a Triple Crown of Tennis?

Nate: I thought it’d be fun. On tour when we travel a lot of us play tennis quite a bit on a regular basis. It’s a lot easier to carry around than a bunch of golf clubs. You can just slip them in your boardbag. I thought it would be cool to get everyone’s mind off the contest for a little bit, have some fun and do something a little different.

FSM: Is anyone dressing up? Short shorts, headbands, that kind of thing?

Nate: I don’t know. Aaron Lieber is doing a pretty good job, rockin’ a headband. Some guys dress up in tennis gear, but most guys wear surf gear to keep it all real—nothing too crazy. You can’t really cut loose till the contests are all done.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Pearlridge Center Aloha Tower Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Whalers Village, Ka’anapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Photo: Rock

www.honoluasurf.com

FSM: What’s your background in tennis? Are you a self-proclaimed master of the sport?

Nate: I am the farthest thing from a self-proclaimed master of the sport. I’m absolutely terrible. I’ve only been playing off and on for a year now. I’ve got a lot to learn so that’s why I just play for the fun of it. It’s good exercise and a good workout.

FSM: Is this a one-time only tournament, or do you think this will become an annual event?

Nate: I definitely think it will catch on. I know this year it was kind of hard to get everyone stoked on it. I sent emails out a month in advance, but everyone’s traveling and I don’t have everyone’s email address, so it was a word-of-mouth type of deal, people I knew that were interested. Next year I’m going to try and get some sponsors for it, do it much better, do it at a private court so you can have friends drinking and cheering from the sidelines. This is a public course so you can’t do that, we have to try to keep it at a minimum.

FSM: What’s the draw between surfers and tennis?

Nate: A lot of surfers play because it’s such a good workout. It’s really cardiovascular and you’re really explosive when you play. It’s all that pent- up energy, sitting there waiting for the ball to come, and when you get that shot you put everything you have into it. It’s a lot like how surfing is: you have a big turn and then you set up for another big turn. Then you let the wave have it. That’s how tennis is, waiting for the ball to come before you smash it as hard as you can. Plus, it’s something completely different from surfing because you’re using a lot of different muscles.

PHOTOS BY: MURPHY

FSM: Who’s your partner and why did you two team up?

Nate: One of my best friends out here, Michael Love, is really good at tennis. He’s played his whole life so I picked him as my partner.

Maybe if he can carry the weight we might be able to make it a little ways.

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School: Elite Element Academy Hometown: Honolulu Home Break: Kewalos Post-Session Grinds: Mc-A-Dees Favorite Video Game System: Wii Favorite Surf Movie: Stranger than Fiction Favorite Music: Rap Favorite Activity When Not Surfing: What do I like to do?

Favorite Surfers: Jordy Smith, Andy Irons, Finn McGill Favorite Maneuvers: Barrels Favorite Wave: V-land, ‘Ehukai Sandbar

Photo: Baeseman

Name: Seth Moniz Nickname: Sethie Birthdate: September 8, 1997 Stance: Regular Sponsors: Billabong, TSSC, DaKine

Skateboarding: ankle breaker or good times? I just got slammed on the ground on my tailbone at the edge of the curb.

For surfing, is the kickflip doable? Yeah, I think that Rat Boy can do it.

What are the biggest waves you’ll surf? This winter I want to surf when it’s 6 feet.

Worst wipeout? At Sunset, I was surfing with Kalani [David]. I was paddling for a wave and I couldn’t see because the water was splashing into my eyes. Then it doubled up in the northwest bowl. I took off, made the drop, but didn’t have enough speed off the bottom so the wave crashed on my head. It was like a 5-footer.

Would you rather have Carissa Moore as your girlfriend or in your heat?

Oh my god, I don’t know. Well, if it were Nationals I would want her as my girlfriend because I don’t want her in my heat. I don’t want to loose!

Off-island Travels: California and Japan Surf Trip Dream Destination: Find secret spots with three of my best friends in Indo (oh, and my dad and Josh).

Best Advice from Pops (or Mom): My dad always says to surf hard, respect and have fun…like right before my heat.

Highlights in your surfing career: I helped run my first surf contest with my Uncle Kirby at Kewalos. It was sponsored by Go-naminori, Dove, TSSC, my Dad, Uncle Todd Mitusi and lots of my Uncle Kirby’s friends.

What bugs you the most? My big brother Micah!

Girlfriend? Looking or no time? Mom won’t let me.

Would you ever ride a fish or a twin fin? Yeah! I’ve been riding my “bullet” shaped by Glenn Minami. It’s super good for smaller waves because I can surf it better and faster.

In your division/age group, who’s the surfer to beat? Kalani, Imai, my brother Josh, Kaulana, Ian Gentile, Landon McNamara, Noa and Elijah.

There are a lot of good guys to surf against.

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Current Contest Results

Friends List: Kaulana Apo, Kalani David, Noa Mizuno, Finn McGill, Fisher, Elijah Gates and there is a lot more...I can’t name them all.

2008 – 2009 NSSA Season First place NSSA Lahaina Harbor Explorer Menehune Division Third place NSSA Lahaina Harbor Open Boys Division 2007 – 2008 NSSA Season Fifth place NSSA Nationals, Lower Trestles Open Mini Grom Division Sixth place NSSA Nationals, Lower Trestles Explorer Menehune Division First place NSSA Regionals, Kewalo Basin Explorer Menehune Division Fourth place NSSA Regionals, Kewalo Basin Open Mini Grom Division Sixth place NSSA Regionals, Kewalo Basin Open Boys Division First place NSSA Hawai‘i Conference Overall Mini Grom Division (Tied with Imai deVault)

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NOTE CIENCE ITOF RS’S ESDUR M INE .C O FM AG AZ FREE SUR

Photo: Heff

[Burger, charging head first.]

Water is weird. Most of us rarely think about the simple H2O molecule, but it almost wholly comprises the aqueous environment in which we surf. Almost two-thirds of the world is covered in water, with nearly 97 percent of that being ocean saltwater. We truly live on a blue planet.

As surfers, we’ve all marveled at the various moods of the ocean, and when we do we are looking primarily at the water. Water can be transparent or murky, ominously dark or crystalline light, rock hard or soft as silk. Of all the things that determine our surfing experience, water is truly the essential element. Whether it’s rushing through your hair on a duck-dive, raining down on you from wind-driven lip spray, or gliding through your fingertips in a perfect barrel, we surf in a world of water.

So what makes water so special? One of the most amazing aspects of seawater is its density, a physical property acquired from its concentration of “salts.” What this means for surfers is that we actually surf in the most dense form H2O has to offer and we all know in its liquid form, water can pack quite a punch. Take pipeline for example: if you fall from the very top of a 10-foot-plus set wave, you’ve almost reached 20 mph by the time you hit the water (and hopefully

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By Jack Kittinger & Logan Mock-Bunting not the reef below). At that speed, the water you just blasted through has become thick and unforgiving. Once you’ve absorbed that impact, you’ve got to handle the weight of the water in the lip chasing you to the bottom. A cubic meter of water weighs a ton—literally 2,000 pounds. In Hawaiian-style 10-foot-plus conditions, a worst-case wipeout scenario will result in over 30,000 pounds of force coming down on you, the equivalent of eight mid-size cars. Ouch!

Depending on where you are and how the wave hits you, this force can feel like a huge pressure spread over your body, or a direct hit. All this has the effect of feeling like an underwater train wreck, and has resulted in serious injuries, knocked surfers unconscious, and pulverized boards into Styrofoam scrap. How bad can it get? Just ask Buzzy Trent or Titus Kinimaka, both of whom suffered broken bones from taking direct hits on big wave wipeouts. To mitigate serious poundings, most big wave surfers have developed wipeout techniques to avoid the most critical part of the impact zone.

Ricky Grigg, a coral reef biologist and pioneer of big wave surfing on O‘ahu’s North Shore, quantified how big winter swells impact coral reef ecosystems. Unsurprisingly, reefs that are highly exposed to large ttt

Understanding the term: heavy wipeout

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northerly swells undergo a tremendous seasonal impact associated with the pounding surf. It turns out reefs, like humans, can barely survive the intensity of the impact zone. As a big wave charger, Dr. Grigg has felt that intensity first-hand. Dr. Grigg estimates big-wave surfers are contending with around a 2% chance of dying when surfing 20-foot-plus surf. Of the 500 or so big-wave sessions he’s surfed, “at least 10 times in my life I thought I was going to die. I thought, I’m done, this is over.” By his calculations and experience, it basically boils down to one near-death experience out of every 50 big ones you attempt.

As scary as water can be when it’s your adversary, its density properties are also the reason we’re able to surf at all. Your buoyancy in the water is actually the result of an upward force that is equal to the weight of the water you displace, known as Archimedes’ principle. This means simply that the ocean holds you up. This same principle illustrates why we’re so lightweight in the water. Since our bodies are primarily comprised of water, it’s no surprise we’re almost equal in density to water.

Our surfboards are much lighter, enabling us to paddle on the surface.

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But when we take off, another force takes over—hydrodynamics. The hydrodynamic force of moving water actually pushes upward against your board, the result of deflection of water against your board surface. It’s this force that makes us seem more buoyant when we’re riding a wave than when we are sitting in the line-up. Of course, a board’s surface creates a lot of drag, and shapers have been working for decades on designs to minimize drag, as your acceleration and speed is determined not only by your board, but by the wave and how you ride it.

The ocean can be beautiful and downright intimidating, serenely smooth or whipped into fury. Some believe it’s this changeable face of the ocean that makes our surfing experience so hard to define. Is it an art, a sport, a hobby, or a religion? Surfing can be all of these things, but for most of us the true definition is that surfing transforms us when we get in the water. The strange physical properties of water and the invisible forces at work on you make up part of the magic of surfing. So, next time you’re paddling out for a session to recharge the batteries, remember, it’s the water that keeps you afloat. [Pau]

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Beautiful Surroundings

Interpreting island scenery and color with Shannon O’Connell

By Kevin Whitton There are two types of people: those that live in the mountains and visit the beach, and conversely, those that live at the beach and visit the mountains. Shannon O’Connell started out as a beach lover, remembering the rocky tide pools and flaming sunsets from her early childhood in Laguna Beach, California.

At the age of 12, she left Laguna and moved with her family to Colorado, where her memories of the ocean faded fast, her imagination seized by her proximity to nature. She lived in a log cabin where deer, mountain lions and bears were their closest neighbors.

But the freezing temperatures of high-elevation Rocky Mountain living can quickly wear out a warm soul. After high school, Shannon took advantage of an opportunity to move to Ma-kaha, without ever having been to Hawai‘i. “I packed a few bags and my skateboard and got a one-way ticket to O‘ahu,” says O’Connell. “I arrived at night and woke up to different-sounding birds, roosters and beautiful Ma-kaha Valley. The beauty was shocking and from that moment I realized I never wanted to leave.”

Her first impressions reverberated into her artistic expressions. “The first beach I went to was Lahilahi. The water was so many different shades of blue and green. I could smell plumeria on the salty air,” explains O’Connell. “That day would forever change my art and my life. Now I’m inspired to paint crashing waves, colorful flowers and I usually hide a tiki or two in each painting.”

Fond of bright colors and their dramatic contrasts, O’Connell’s work tends to have a very tropical and colorful theme, relying on water as the balance in most of her paintings. Apart from painting with acrylics, she also dabbles in clay, tile murals and carving tikis.

And as far as surfing goes, she’s embraced the sport and found a way to incorporate the fluidity into her creations. “Surfing has made my art come full circle, being out in that water clears your mind,” says the self-taught artist. “The minute you leave the sand you’re in another world. The freedom relaxes me, so when I paint I put myself in that same state of mind.”

O’Connell’s art is regularly featured at Wyland Gallery in Hale‘iwa and she is open to all kinds of commissioned work, from tikis to tattoo art. Live at the beach and visit the mountains—for Shannon, there’s no other way to be.

For more info on O’Connell, email freakytikis@hotmail.com

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Waimea Ka Mana Nui O

By Ian `Akahi Masterson

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Photo: Bill Romerhaus

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akali‘i (Pleiades) is rising around sunset now, the palaoa (whales) have returned as have the kolea (golden plover), and the season has changed to Ho‘oilo, the wet season. It is the time of harvesting the dryland crops such as ‘uala, and letting the land lay fallow until the coming spring. Presided over by the god Lonomakua, the wet season is a time during which the annual Makahiki Festival of ritual athletics, games, and tribute to the ali‘i occurs. Makahiki begins when Makali‘i passes over the zenith of Hawai‘i, at which point the sun rises due east of us and sets due west. It is the season when the winds turn out of the kona direction. It is the season to surf Waimea Bay.

Photo: Bill Romerhaus

Waimea, Ko‘olauloa Waimea ahupua‘a was once the westernmost land division in the district of Ko‘olauloa. The boundary marker is a tongueshaped stone named Ka`ahaki‘i (the assembly of images), situated southwest of the bay in the Uppers parking lot.

The lands of Waimea and Pu- pu- kea in Ko‘olauloa, as well as Waiahole and Hakipu‘u in Ko‘olaupoko, were lands given to the Kahuna (priests)—a tradition honored and continued up to the time of Kamehameha I. Pu- pu- kea belonged to the priests of Kuali‘i, and Waimea to the priests of Pa‘ao—famous ali‘i and kahuna respectively. During the time of O‘ahu’s shrewd chief Kahahana (1700s), the kahuna Ka‘opulupulu, considered the wisest man in the islands at the time, is said to have presided over activities at both the major heiau in Waimea as well as Puakea heiau in Hakipu‘u. Kamehameha’s Kahuna nui, Hewahewa, who sat and ate with Ka‘ahumanu in 1819, breaking the ‘Ai Kapu and procuring the abolition of the Kapu system by the Ali‘i Nui (Queen Regent), lived beneath these cliffs in his later years, and he remains there today.

The Queen of the North Shore in all her glory; a welcoming site to big-wave surfers of any era.

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[Mikey Bruneau]

Photo: Bill Romerhaus

above: Mikey Bruneau negotiates the drop and sizes up the towering lip before setting his line. inset: Original Country.

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He‘epu‘ewai Surfers jumping in the water at Waimea are toyed with by kapu‘ewai, the swirling current where the river mixes with the ocean.

Scanning the horizon for the giant surf known as nalu po‘i, the o-pu‘u (large unbroken ocean swell) would rise up. Ali‘i on long, 12-foot-plus, thick k-l ko‘o and olo surfboards would utilize the steep slope of the swell to propel the 150 pounds of ko‘a, ulu, or wiliwili wood down the face, riding at an angle as the wave pushed into the bay. This point break, and others like Honolua Bay on Maui, gave light to a descriptive style of surfing known as he‘epu‘ewai, surfing towards the mouth of a stream.

Waipu‘eone Like crabs rising and diving under the waves swiftly and silently, Hawaiians also drifted off the shoreline of ‘Ihukoko, inside the bay, awaiting a chance to waipu‘eone, surf the shorebreak on their small paipo and alaia boards, not unlike the bodyboarders do today. A change in the physical setting is that the rivermouth was open prior to the floods of 1894, and both canoe paddlers and surfers would have been passing up the rivermouth towards Kapa‘u, the landing beneath the cliffs where several men from the Daedalus, a supply ship attached to Captain George Vancouver’s expedition in 1792, were killed in a skirmish over the foreigners landing boat.

Ku-hale Heiau Kalihe‘e is the central bluff dividing the tributary valleys of Kamananui and Kamanaiki. The cliffs along the western valley wall were called Kaluahole, below which stands Kupopolo heiau. On each bluff were pu‘u kilo i‘a, large stones where fishermen sighted schools of fish entering the bay. Kalaku- is a prominent boulder beneath the northern cliff, probably associated with Ku-hale, a fishing heiau that once stood on the site of the house near the church—it goes without saying that the house is known to be haunted. Across the bay stood a stone called Kalako‘i, also known as Ahu‘ena, probably on Romerhaus Point behind the jump rock.

Photo:Kinsan

Pili-a‘ama Kupua Kupua are shape-shifters, often represented by prominent boulders.

Pilia‘ama was once the land manager of ‘Ihukoko. He was a famous surfer who enjoyed the wai-pu‘e-one at Waimea. As the fire goddess and Pele’s sister Hi‘iaka traveled from Kaua‘i to O‘ahu, she passed through Waimea, where she called upon Pilia‘ama for fish. She honors his surfing abilities and asks of the types of fish that he was catching at named fishing sites around the bay. She describes natural conditions in the area, such as the “yellowing seas of Pupukea” whose salt spray yellows the leaves of the ‘ilima shrubs along the shore.

We also see the metaphorical significance of Pilia‘ama’s passion for surfing the shorebreak as his hi‘i olo (bosom buddy/wife) is named for the current that runs through it—Kapu‘ewai. A stone matching the description of Pilia‘ama lies right along the road edge by the speed limit sign just down from haunted house. Covered with vines and dead leaves and nicked by bulldozers, he is all but forgotten, yet he is the patron surfer of the bay.

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Photo: Bill Romerhaus

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Keahu o Hapu‘u Heiau and Ka-ne‘aukai Kupua Atop the rocky promontory past the jump rock stands Keahu o Hapu‘u, a fishing shrine associated with the fishing god Ku-‘ula. The site had a resident kupua stone that once stood within its bounds, named Ka-ne‘aukai, the shark god that swims the coast between Pua‘ena and Waimea. It was said that there was no need to kill a pig when used as an offering here. They merely placed the black suckling in front of this upright stone and the pig would shiver and drop dead. Varying accounts claim that it was destroyed or removed during construction of the railroad, with one account citing that when they attempted its removal the stone stood erect on its own and apparently caused the death of three workers on site.

Kupopolo Heiau

Behind this ku-‘ula lies Kupololo heiau, made famous by the kahuna Ka‘opulupulu. It was here that he prayed to know the nature of request from O‘ahu’s high chief Kahahana for him and his son. A rainbow stood before him just then, and he knew then that he and his son were to be put to death for making a public statement against the chief. He and all of his retinue had tattooed one knee, for you see, kuli means both deaf and knee. Kahahana had caught wind of the insulting act and understood well the pun intended, so he vengefully ordered them caught and killed. A prophecy was uttered by Ka‘oplulupulu to his son as Kahahana’s men were upon them, suggesting that foreigners would soon rule over the island because the kahuna’s advice was not heeded:

Photo: Kinsan

“E nui ke aho, e ku‘u keiki, a moe i ke kai, no ke kai la ho‘i ka ‘aina.”

above:Surfing The Bay when it’s huge is a test of endurance, skill and fate. Clark Abbey is one of the core Waimea Surfers that has made surfing The Bay a life long pursuit and passion. inset: The white trestle before it was a foot path across the river.

“Take a deep breath my son, and lay yourself in the sea, for then the land shall belong to the sea.” uuu

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In Like There’s more to Flynn Novak than Pipe bombs and big airs

By Jeff Mull

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here’s never been a better time to be Flynn Novak. Despite his trademark serene attitude, once you scratch the surface you quickly realize there’s much more to Flynn than a wholesome smile and a passion for Pipeline. Speaking with the determined 25-year-old North Shore local, you get the feeling he’s conditioning himself for something great, something life-chang-

ing, something monumental in his surfing career. As a self-proclaimed perfectionist, Flynn’s never been content with “good enough” and has always intentionally set the bar for himself slightly out of reach, hoping to push himself to be that much better. For Flynn, the arrival of winter and the north swells signal his time to shine. This is his home, his backyard, and his

Photo: Tron

proving ground. God speed to anyone who stands in his way.

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Photo: Heff

FreeSurf Magazine: So how’d you end up in Hawai‘i?

Flynn Novak: Actually, it’s kind of an interesting story. Both my grandparents were in the military and because of that they traveled a lot. My mom was actually born in India, but pretty much grew up over here on O‘ahu. My grandpa on my dad’s side married a German woman—my grandma—and became a professor when he got out of the military. We’re a pretty close family and every year growing up we’d go visit my grandparents. Anyway, my parents actually met out here in Hawai‘i when they were pretty young and lived on the North Shore in Mokule-‘ia where they both surfed. They eventually split up when I was pretty young; my mom moved over to Sunset and my dad stayed at Mokule-‘ia. I guess growing up in both those spots I got the best of both worlds: great, uncrowded waves at one spot and Pipe at the other spot.

FSM: Can you remember how your love affair with surfing first started?

Flynn Novak: Yeah, for sure. My dad’s a full-on surfer and has been really passionate about surfing for a long time. He used to surf Pipe and all the spots and is still pretty into it. He actually used to write for the surf mags a lot back in the day, too. He used to save all of the mags and I remember seeing stacks and stacks of old magazines in the house. So when I was a grom, he would push me into little waves and I was stoked on it. But I didn’t really get too into it until later on, when I was like seven years old. It’s a cool story, one day I was just playing in the backyard and my neighbor just handed me a board straight over the fence. She just thought I should have it I guess.

Once I got my own board, I was pretty stoked on surfing and started going out on my own more. I guess that’s when I got super into it and became a surfer.

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“I got the best of both worlds: great, uncrowded waves at one spot and Pipe at the other spot.�

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FSM: Did anyone influence your surfing growing up or did you pave your own way?

Flynn Novak: Aside from my dad, I’d say Todd Chesser influenced me a lot. When I lived in Mokule-‘ia, we had a beach path that went right along side our house and Todd would always cut through there to go surf. Because he went through there so much, he and my dad would just start talking and after a while he became a family friend. It was cool, I remember seeing him and Shane Dorian and bunch of the boys cutting through my yard to go surf. I wasn’t star-struck or anything…I just thought that was kind of cool. But for a young kid, I definitely looked up to Todd.

FSM: What was it like growing up with your group of friends, most of whom would go on to become professional surfers? Did you guys push each other a lot?

Flynn Novak: Yeah, when I was like 13, I started hanging out with a big group of guys that surfed and I can honestly say that’s been a big part of my life. A lot of people have two or three friends that they cruise with, but for me it’s like 30 and we’re all super tight. To get back to your question, yeah, we definitely pushed each other in the water.

When one guy starts taking off on bigger waves, the rest follow. If one of your friends starts pulling in, you’re not going to let them enjoy it all by themselves, so you start pulling in. If one starts towing in, well, it’s time to strap in cause you’re not going to let him one-up you.

“A lot of people have two or three friends that they cruise with, but for me it’s like 30...”

Photo: Heff

Photo: Tron

FSM: There’s been a few generations of surfers from the North Shore that have really pushed surfing as a sport, how do you think your group of friends compares to the others?

Flynn Novak: That’s a tough question to answer because we’re all very different and the guys that have come before us have done so much. There have definitely been a few really strong groups of surfers coming out of the North Shore.

I mean, Ross Williams and his group with the Momentum Generation, those guys were insane. And all those guys that pioneered the way before that, it’s a lot to follow. But we’re out there, trying our best to represent Hawai‘i and the North Shore the best way we can.

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FSM: Switching directions for a moment, you’ve written a lot in the past for a bunch of the magazines. What got you into writing?

Flynn Novak: I’ve always liked to write, but my dad’s been an English teacher for a long time and that’s always had an influence on me. When I was young, he had this rule that we had to read 20 pages a night. At the time, I hated that because I just wanted to play and surf but looking back, I think it was really good for me. As I got a bit older, I started keeping a journal. You know, writing is just like anything else, the more you do it, the more comfortable you are doing it. So because of that, and with my dad being an English teacher, I’ve always liked to write. Now, a lot of the time when I write it’s to gather my thoughts. I actually feel way more comfortable communicating through writing than by talking.

Photo: Baeseman

FSM: You’ve got a reputation for being a pretty mellow guy in and out of the water. Is that an accurate description of you, or do you get frustrated like everybody else?

Flynn Novak: Yes and no. I’ve always been a pretty mellow guy, I guess that’s one other thing I picked up from my dad. But of course I get pissed and frustrated like everybody else. When I do, I just try and check it and use it to my advantage. I actually do my best surfing when I’m mad. But I’m definitely not some tough guy or anything. I see a lot of that right now in surfing and for me it just doesn’t add up. I’ll train a little bit in jiu-jitsu, but that’s just because I think it makes me a stronger surfer, not because I’m into fighting. If you want to fight, then you’re in the wrong sport. To me, surfing isn’t about that at all. Right now I’m focusing all of my energy on being the best surfer that I can be.

FSM: Last year was your first full year on the ’QS. Is being on The Grind different than you thought it would be?

Flynn Novak: Yeah, it can be a little tough traveling so much. I don’t get to spend as much time at home as I would like, but that’s the nature of the beast. I love surfing and I’m very competitive and that’s where the money is at, so I’m doing the ’QS and trying to qualify for the ’CT. I’ve never been happy with good enough. I’m definitely a perfectionist. I’m always trying to better myself as a surfer and a person, just trying to be the best Flynn that I can be.

FSM: You had a big win this past summer at the E-Series contest at Bowls. We heard that it was pretty much as good as Bowls gets for a contest. In those conditions, getting a win must be pretty special.

Flynn Novak: Yeah, that was definitely a great day for me. Like you said, the waves were unreal and everyone was ripping. A lot of people said it was like another Hawaiian ’CT event or something. But yeah, it was cool for me because I very rarely surf Bowls. I think the last time I surfed it before the event may have been for an NSSA event as a grom. But you know what? I think I might start surfing Bowls a little bit more.

“I actually feel way more comfortable communicating through writing than by talking.”

FSM: You’ve been spotted punting some weird type of airs recently. What’s that about?

Flynn Novak: Well, like I said, I’m never happy with “good enough” so I’m always trying to come up with ways to make myself a better surfer. This air that I think you’re talking about, it’s called a FlynnStone Flip and it’s kind of a cross between a couple of different airs. I’ve pulled a couple of them in the past, but I’m hoping I can get one on film and win that Kustom Air Show contest and get $50,000. That’d be nice. [Pau]

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Photo: Baeseman

“I actually do my best surfing when I’m mad.”

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Sessions Moments of mid-winter splendor

We couldn’t have asked for a better start to the winter season. One northwest swell after another made its timely arrival to the north shores of Hawai‘i. If you were there for the taking, you’d know that they were nothing short of epic. So forget about all the hoopla that comes with the mid-winter industry surge and just enjoy our oversized gallery, hand picked by the newest edition to the FreeSurf family, Jeff Mull. Kaua‘i native, and Surfer Magazine contributing writer, Jeff kicks off our ’09 issue with free reign to FSM’s ’08 winter archives.

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We dare you to look this cool pulling into a Backdoor pit. Solomon Ortiz redefines grace under pressure.

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Groms take note: this is what a roundhouse should look like. Luke Egan, fundamentals fine-tuned.

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Gulf Coaster Sterling Spencer, enjoying the view from the inside.

Sequence: Heff

Fins free, boned out, tweaked, throw tail; Whatever you call it, Kyle Ramey demonstrates primal torque.

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Photo: Riddlebergerw

Bruce Irons, blazing lines.

What’s going on in the mind of Andy Irons seems to be the gossip of the surf industry these days. As far as we’re concerned, as long as he keeps on giving us shots like this we are keeping our eyes open and our mouths shut.

Photo: Baeseman

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Kelly Slater, holed up in a moment of solitude amid the Pipeline crowd.

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Just to give you an idea of how fast Jamie O’Brien is going here, notice that the spray off his bottom turn has yet to fully hit the water before he cracks the lip, upside down no less.

Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption Caption

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To air is human, to punt a full-rotation alley-oop is superhuman. Australia’s Yadin Nicol, going above and beyond.

Photo: Baeseman

One thick lip and one thick Hawaiian. Kahea Hart.

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Who says there aren’t any personalities left in pro surfing? Kaua‘i’s Sebastian “Seabass” Zietz, straight out of central casting.

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Freddy P., putting it into fifth.

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North Shore secret spot.

Still think you surf better than most of the girls in the lineup? Think again, Coco Ho.

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Only the shadow knows...

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The new “Mr. Pipeline.”

Jamie O’Brien, living up to his moniker.

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Lucas Kalani Mitchell billy matt derek cholo timmy mr. olsen connor lucas dready

NEONTTES ITSOR&’SEV NEDEW COM AZ IN E. R FM AG FR EE SU

Sultan Of Sunset Pancho Claims Win in ‘Best Ever’ Final

By Noa Myers Photos by Tony Heff

Event: Xcel Pro Presented by Honolua Surf Co. Location: Sunset Beach Date: October 28, 29 & Nov 6, 2008 Conditions: From out of control to all time

The Xcel Pro celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, having teamed up with Honolua Surf Co. to bring the winter’s first big contest to the North Shore befittingly at its primary proving ground, Sunset Beach.

Pele’s breath lingered in the windless sky in the form of vog as a sizeable eight- to 10-foot sloppy and unorganized north swell provided the first two days of the contest with difficult conditions. The already complicated Sunset lineup was even more impossible to predict with rogue sets popping everywhere due to the short period, shifty swell.

Local knowledge at Sunset always play a key role, and even when the majority of contestants come from Hawai‘i, the dedicated Sunset surfers shined, with solid performances by past champs Joel Centeio, Evan Valiere and true resident of the point, Makua Rothman.

However, one has to expect such conditions during a contest at Sunset as it’s been a while since an event has been lucky enough to score any epic swell or flawless conditions. But as fate would have it, Lady Luck turned those expectations around for the final day of the contest. The remaining surfers and contest organizers suffered droppedjaws, baffled by their amazing fortune: a perfectly groomed 6- to 8-foot

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northwest swell assaulting the lineup on Nov. 6.

The rewards for surviving the first two days of the event were grinding down the reef as big turquoise faces and wide barrels supplied surfers with all of the tools needed to rack up points, with many of the heats bearing witness to high scores, deep tubes and huge hacks as the excitement culminated in a climactic all-Hawai‘i final. Makua Rothman anted-up for his third-in-a-row final appearance,while lone goofyfooter Danny Fuller, fellow Kaua‘i charger Kamalei Alexander and multiple Xcel Pro Champion Pancho Sullivan pulled up a seat at the table.

Sullivan set the pace at the beginning of the final and left the boys playing catch-up for the remainder of the heat when he dropped a 9.7-point ride on his first wave, the highest wave score of the entire contest. The rest of the crew rallied up some high scores in the 7 to 8 point range to protest Sullivans strangle hold on Sunset. Kamalei Alexander, who posted a 9-point ride put up a valiant effort, but it wouldn’t be enough as Sullivan destroyed a wave all the way to the channel for an 8.7 to lock in his lead. As time trickled down, the $10,000 winner’s check slipped into Sullivan’s familiar hands once again.

Makua Rothman

Pancho Sullivan

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Kamalei Alexander

Danny Fuller

XCEL PRO PRESENTED BY HONOLUA SURF CO. RESULTS: 1) 2) 3) 4)

www.HawaiianSpring.com

Pancho Sullivan $10,000 Kamalei Alexander $5,000 Danny Fuller $3,000 Makua Rothman $2,400

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Simply Irrestible

Photo: Nick Seymour

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Simply Irresistible

By Jeff Mull

It’s been said that love is blind, but after spending a few minutes with Sonya and Kanoa Chung, it could also be said that love is not the least bit territorial.

Hailing from opposite sides of the Garden Island, Kanoa (who calls the north shore home) and Sonya (who prides herself on her south side roots) completely dropped their hometown fervor when they first laid eyes on each other out in the water a few years back.

“I remember seeing Kanoa out at my local spot on the south side and thinking, ‘Wow…who is that?’” says Sonya with a sparkle in her eye. After being introduced by a mutual friend, Kanoa and Sonya soon became inseparable, spending long hours hooting each other into waves and getting to know one another. As their high-school love blossomed into a full-blown romance, so did their careers and the pair was soon off to relish in the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. Kanoa, who holds a pedigree among one of Kaua‘i’s most respected surfing families, opted to pursue his doctorate in architecture from UH Ma- noa while Sonya would became a full-time model and, eventually, Miss Teen Hawai‘i.

Despite the commitments of photo shoots and midterms, the two recently found the time to tie the knot and were married in Kanoa’s backyard on Kaua‘i last winter. After saying their “I do’s” the newly married couple were off to Singapore where Kanoa took up an internship with a leading design firm and Sonya continued to flourish in her modeling career. Although landlocked and swamped with work, the two found solace and a little slice of home with the occasional jaunt to Bali. “Living in Singapore was a pretty amazing experience,” recalls Kanoa. “The place was definitely interesting. I liked being there for sure, but one of the best perks was how close we were to Bali.”

These days, the Chungs have left Southeast Asia behind and are busy living it up back home in Honolulu. Lately, Sonya’s been spending her time gracing the cover of Women’s Health magazine and starring in the surf-themed TV show, “Beyond the Break.” Kanoa, ever the scholar, has been knee-deep in books and blueprints, but still finds the time to tear the living hell out any-and-all-available peaks. Testament to his naturalborn talent in the water, Kanoa recently dropped some jaws along with some 9s during the Xcel Pro at Sunset when he cut class to surf in the event, earning himself the highest heat score of the day. But for the newly minted Chungs, it’s not the cover shoots or the high-scoring heats that get them going, but the lonely surfs together that keep them stoked. “In the end,” says Kanoa, “I’m just stoked to have my wife. I’m a really lucky guy.” And although Sonya doesn’t immediately reply, the sly smile and look she gives Kanoa says it all.

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From Page 47

Pu‘u o Mahuka Heiau

Ka‘opulupulu also presided over Pu‘u o Mahuka heiau, located atop the cliffs of Keanaloa along the northern side of the valley. The site has an expansive view that overlooks the Bay and the Waialua District all the way to Ka‘ena Point. Indeed, it is said that the fires of Pu‘u o Mahuka warmed the eastern shores of Hikinaakala heiau at the Wailua rivermouth in Kapa‘a, Kaua‘i, a hundred miles distant. Both sites are known to be Pu‘uhonua (refuges) as well as being of the Po‘o Kanaka class, the most kapu of luakini (sacrificial) heiau, dedicated to various Ku- gods. Pu‘u o Mahuka was also said to be a birthing site for high-ranking ‘ali‘i, possibly at an earlier time. From this high-vantage point many astronomical alignments could also be ascertained that would help indicate the changing of the seasons, revealing the many possible functions served by the site. In area, Pu‘u o Mahuka is the largest heiau on O‘ahu. Kupopolo and Pu‘u o Mahuka heiau serve as spiritual guardians of Waimea Bay, embracing the giant waves and those who challenge themselves here.

Haleiwa Town Center

�next to Food For Thought�

10 :00 am – 6 ISH 808. 637.9670 guavahawaii.com

Open

Photo: Bill Romerhaus

“E nui ke aho, e ku‘u keiki, a moe i ke kai, no ke kai la ho‘i ka ‘aina.”

“Take a deep breath my son, and lay yourself in the sea, for then the land shall belong to the sea.”

In recent years, community leaders have led preservation efforts in the valley, leading to OHA, the Audubon Society, and now Hi‘ipaka LLC, a nonprofit company created to nurture and care for the valley. Their efforts must be applauded, for Waimea will now remain intact for future generations. Places outside the park like Kupopolo heiau and the Pilia‘ama stone are still at risk, and responsibility for care of such places lies upon each of us who paddles into Waimea’s waters. Regardless of the adrenaline factor, surfing Waimea is humbling and it causes the spirit to grow. Learning of the many significant sites in the valley, realizing the greatness of this place, and experiencing the mana of Waimea are part of the surfing experience there. Indeed, one can feel the depth of love that Pilia‘ama must have had for his beautiful wife Kapu‘ewai—forever he watches her dance along the shoreline. [Pau]

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1 Dave Kalama

2 Kalen Galtes

Crank and Carve has recently relocated to Waialua, at 67-292 Goodale Ave., Shop A-5. They also have a new web shop, www.PreserveTheRide.com. The CnC crew also got involved in Kamehameha Schools Surf Night, where free food flowed, surf flicks flickered and local pros came down to sign autographs.

Kamehameha Schools started its first surf club called “Surfers Give Back,” a service club that uses surfing as a platform to serve its community. The goals: to allow students to participate in two community service activities per semester, promote surfing in a positive manner and help students and community build relationship personally and spiritually through the sport of surfing.

To launch the cause, the club is establishing the first Annual Kamehameha Schools Surf Sample Sale on campus for Saturday, Jan. 31.

Naish International added legendary waterman Dave Kalama (1) to both the Naish stand-up board team and Naish product design group.

With several new products already in the development pipeline, Dave will be a key player in the future of the SUP industry.

Primo beer teamed up with Billabong for the creation of the limited edition Primo boardshort. The customdesigned boardshorts are available where Billabong merchandise is sold.

Young Kaua‘i ripper Kalen Galtes (2) is on the Rhythm program.

Thirty-six-year-old Bonga Perkins (3) was crowned the ASP World Longboard Tour Champion at the Oxbow WLT event at San Onofre State Beach, Calif. It’s Bonga’s second WLT championship title. And that’s not all for Perkins, he was also picked up

by Honolua Surf Co.

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3 Bonga Perkins

4 Rochelle Ballard

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Condos • All homes should have Cruise ships A.I.R. at every bed side.

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Call Jeff @ (808) 388-5086 NORTH SHORE: Deep Ecology Or email at: jr.wegotair@gmail.com Aikane Kai Haleiwa Always In Reach LLC. Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Toll free: Surf-n-Sea 866-787-7653 email: alwaysinreach@sc.rr.com

Letarte, the bohemian luxury swim and cover-up brand, opened their premiere flagship store in Pa‘ia, Maui last November. Letarte donated 10% of the store’s first week of sales to the Surfrider Foundation Maui Chapter.

No Fear extended its commitment to serve as the title sponsor for NSSA’s four championship series—the NSSA Interscholastic State Championships, East Coast and West Coast Championships and the grand finale-the NSSA National Championships—through June of 2011.

The gal we all love to love, Rochelle Ballard (4), picked up Lucy Love as a sponsor.

Baseball’s World Series champ and Maui boy Shane Victorino appeared at the HIC grand opening at the Lahaina Cannery Mall in November.

Some whompers rolled through the Pipe lineup in

December and Aussie WQS surfer Corey Ziems (5) felt Pipe’s heavy hand. After pulling into a closeout, he literally sat on the reef and broke his L1 vertebrae. Danny Fuller helped in up the beach as lifeguards arrived. Luck was on his side with only six weeks of recovery.

The Nelson Factory is boasting the biggest purpose built shaping machine in the world right here in Hawai‘i and now available to the watersports industry. www. nelsonfactory.com The Guava Shop is open for business in Hale‘iwa.

The new shop had a rocking grand opening, graced by the melodies of Jack Johnson.

Guava Shop is located at 66165 Kamehameha Hwy, Unit 4-4C. Macbeth Footwear welcomed Green Day bassist Mike Dirnt to its exclusive family of musicians, artists, and athletes. Macbeth is

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Corey Zeims

6 Bethany Hamilton

honored to have added such a legendary musician with a creative point of view that is both distinct and decisive.

Carissa Moore made a few big changes in her life, namely her big-money contracts with Nike 6.0, Red Bull and Target.

SplashCast and Quiksilver launched the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau SplashCast “micro-channel,” a shareable and embeddable video syndication service that offers viewers a glimpse of tournament history, highlights, surfer profiles and boardriding apparel. The event microchannel can be added to and viewed from surf fans’ social networking pages on Facebook or MySpace and is automatically updated with fresh, new content as it becomes available. The Quiksilver/SplashCast microchannel will also feature weekly webisodes hosted by big-wave surfer and invitee

Photo: Carreira

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Mark Healey. www.splashcast.net/web_ watch The 33rd Rell Sunn 2008 Menehune Surfing Championships, always a beacon of aloha, went down with a splash at Makaha for the 12-and-under groms.

Bethany Hamilton (6) arrived and donated two boards that she personally signed for two keiki with the best sportsmanship: Makana Demate and Kahanu Delovio.

Kalani Robb also showed up and donated two Al Merrick boards that went to the most deserving contestant: Alika Manners and Kaniela Stewart.

From O‘ahu’s North Shore, B-Ware is steadily cranking out fresh apparel products that are quickly gaining popularity inside and outside of the surf world. “B-Ware is not a surf brand. It’s a style brand from people who love to surf,” says B-Ware co-owner Jonathan Boulware.

They’re to live for

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Surf art by Elise Nicole

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OceanGirlArt.com

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Jonathan and partner Jim DiCarlo are striving to break through the typical barriers and simply create quality apparel brand for individuals looking for something different, while staying true to their core principals of progressive design, solid product, and authenticity. “B-Ware is the answer to a growing sentiment from individuals within the surf community that are tired of the same old brands that aren’t really in touch with the true lifestyle”, says Jim. “At the same time we are offering

a different perspective on the whole streetwear thing, which is why I think we’ve been successful in that world.” B-Ware’s most recent collection, “Tales From The Tomb,” consists of brand new t-shirts, boardshorts, sweatshirts and jackets.

The line is available at top boutiques and select surf shops in Hawai‘i and throughout the mainland.

And the big news, Kekoa Bacalso (7) and Dustin Barca (8) will be part of the WCT Dream Tour for the 2009 season. Yar!

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Find FreeSurf Magazine at all Jamba Juice Locations in Hawai‘i!

HAWAI‘I: O‘ahu: North Shore: Aikane Kai Surf Shop, Aloha General Store, Aoki Shave Ice, Banzai Sushi, Breakers, Cafè Haleiwa, Cholo’s, Da Board Shop, Deep Ecology, Haleiwa Eats, Hawaiian Island Creations, Island Shack, Kemoo Pub, Killer Tacos, Kono’s, Kua Aina, Matsumoto Shave Ice, Quiksilver Boardriders Club, Raging Isle, Spaghettini, Starbucks Pupukea, Strong Current, Surf N Sea, Surf and Sail, Ted’s Bakery, Tropical Rush, Turtle Bay Resort, Waimea Falls Grill, WRV, Xcel East Side: HIC, Hukilau Cafe, Hukilau Surf, Island Snow, Laie Inn, Maui Tacos, Muddy Waters Espresso, Point Break, Uncle Bobo West Side: Blue Hawaii Surf Outlet,Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park, Local Motion South Shore: Billabong Waikiki, Blue Hawaii, Blue Planet, Borders, Clips, Down To Earth, Downing Hawaii, Drift Surf, Hawaiian South Shore, HIC, Honolua Surf Co., House of Flys, Koa Board Sports, Kua Aina, Local Motion, Mauka to Makai, MR3, Quiksilver Waikiki, Quiksilver Youth, Rip Curl Ala Moana, Roxy, Russ K Boardriders, Sera’s Surf & Shore, Surf Co., Surf Garage, T&C, Tropical Blends, Turbo Surf, Up and Riding, Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, Xcel Maui: Lahaina: Billabong Retail, Boardriders Lahaina, Boardriders Whaler’s Village, Honolua Surf Co., Local Motion, Maui Surf Company, Maui Water Wear, Maui Tropix, Napili Coffee, Paradise Smoothie, Surfline Store Town: Ainokea, Borders, Hawaiian Island Sun Sports, Hawaiian Surf Works, Hi-Tech Surf, Las Pinatas, Lightning Bolt, Local Motion, Maui Tropix, Neil Pryde, Otopia, Second Wind, Shapers, The Foam Company Kihei: Big Wave Cafè, Jaws Fish Tacos, Local Motion, Maui Tacos Paia: Anthony’s, Da Kine Factory Store, Hana Hwy Surf, Jaws Fish Tacos, Live Wire Cafè, Maui Tropix, Sailboards Maui, Simmer Big Island: Hilo: Big Island Surf-Prince Kuhio Plaza, Big Island Surf-Bayfront, Hilo Surfboard Company, Local Style, Orchidland Surfboards Kona: 808 Surf & Skate, A‘ama Surf & Sport, Big Island Surf, Conscious Riddims Records Inc., Hawaii Lifeguards, Honolua Surf Co., Honolua Wahine, Kahalu‘u Bay Oshima Surf, Killer Tacos, Kona Boyz, Miller’s Surf & Sport, Pacific Vibrations, Surf & Sea, World Core Pahoa: Jeff Hunt Surfboards, Kona Boyz Waimea: Big Island Surf Kaua‘i: Hanalei: Bamboo Bamboo, Bikini Room, Hanalei Backdoor, Hanalei Surf Company, Mormaii, Kai Kane Princeville: Paradise Kilauea: Kilauea Bakery Kapaa: Tamba, M. Miura, The Wave Wailua: Chicks Who Rip, Kauai Surf Company, Play Dirty, Underwater Lihue: Deja Vu, Honolua Surf Co., Hawaiian Blades, Jamba Juice Poipu: Aloha Surf Shop, Honolua Surf Co., Nukumoi, Progressive Expressions Kalaheo: Kaleheo Steak House Ele Ele: Grinds Cafè Hanapepe: Dr. Ding MAINLAND DISTRIBUTION: You can now purchase FreeSurf Magazine on the mainland at the following Barnes & Noble locations and select bookstores: Barnes & Noble Locations: Arizona: Flagstaff, Phoenix, Scottsdale California: Aliso Viejo, Antioch, Bakersfield, Burbank, Calabasas, Colma, Costa Mesa, Emmeryville, Escondido, Fairfieldm, Glendale, Greenbrae, Huntington Beach, Irvine (13712 Jamboree Rd, 4600 Barranca

Parkway, 81 Fortune Drive Suite 123), Long Beach, Marina Del Rey, Merced, Mira Mesa, Newport Beach, Oakland, Oceanside, Orange, Redlands, Riverside, Roseville, San Diego (407 Horton Plaza, 8650 Genesee Suite 230, 128353 El Camino Rial, Hazard Center), San Jose, San Luis Obispo, Santa Monica, Santa Rosa, Stockton, Thousand Oaks, Torrance, Ventura Colorado: Boulder, Golden Delaware: Wilmington Florida: Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Brandon, Daytona Beach, Fort Meyers, Jacksonville, Jensen Beach, Merritt Island, Miami, N. Miami Beach, Naples, Orlando (2418 East Colonial Drive, 481 N. Alafaya Trail), Palm Beach Gardens, S. Miami, St. Augustine, Wellington, West Palm Beach Hawai‘i: Honolulu Illinois: Bloomingdale, Chicago Indiana: Mishawaka Iowa: West Des Moines Maryland: Baltimore, Bethesda Massachussetts: Boston, Framingham, Holyoke, Hyannis New Hampshire: Salem New Jersey: Bricktown, Bridgewater, Clark, East Brunswick, Freehold, Holmdel, Marlton, Moorestown, West Long Branch New York: Brooklyn, Forest Hills, NYC (160 E. 54th St., 1972 Broadway, 33 East 17th St.), W. Nyack North Carolina: Durham, Fayetteville, Greensboro, Wilmington Ohio: Kenwood Oklahoma: Oklahoma City Oregon: Bend, Medford, Portland Pennsylvania: Easton, Philadelphia, Wyomissing Rhode Island: Smithfield South Carolina: Charleston, Mt. Pleasant, Myrtle Beach Texas: Austin, Charleston, Corpus Christi, Houston (2922 South Sheperd, 7626 Westheimer, 1960 West), Humble, Mt. Pleasant, Myrtle Beach, San Antonio, Webster Utah: Salt Lake City Virginia: Alexandria, Arlington, Chesapeake, Newport News, Virginia Beach Washington: Lynwood,Olympia, Seattle (2700 NE University Village, 600 Pine St. #107), Woodinville Washington DC: 3040 M Street Wisconsin: Madison Other bookstore locations: California: Capitola: Capitola Book Cafe Goleta, Borders Books & Music Davis: Borders Books & Music Dana Point: Killer Dana Surf Shop Hollywood: Stef-Jen Inc. Long Beach: Borders Books & Music Forrestville: Roasters Coffee Shop Laguna: Niguel Nalu's Grill, Thylia Street Laguna Beach, Laguna Sued N Sport Napa: Copperfields Irvine Nalu's Grill Petaluma: Copperfield Books San Clemente: Killer Dana Surf Shop, Pipes, Stewart Surfboards, Rip Curl San Rafael: Borders Books & Music San Diego: Paras Newsstand, El Toro San Mateo: Borders Books & Music Santa Rosa: Sawyer’s News Inc. Torrance: Borders Books & Music Windsor: Windsor News & Views Colorado: Aurora: Aurora Newsland Westminster: Westminster Newsstand Connecticut: New Haven: News Services LLC District of Columbia: One Stop News Georgia: Savannah: Home Run Video Illinois: Lisle: Book Nook News Westmont: Westmont Magazine & News Louisiana: Metairie: Lakeside News Maryland: Easton: Newscenter of Easton White Marlin: Newscenter White Marlin Massachusetts: New Bedford: Newsbreak New Hampshire: Manchester: Hudson News New Jersey: Columbus: Typo Books North Carolina: Charlotte: Newsstand International Sylva: Cope's Superette Newsstand Ohio: Columbus: Lane Ave Book Store Oregon: Portland: Powell's Bookstore Texas: Austin: AAA News Houston: Issues Magazine Store Washington: Seattle: Raps LLC SUBSCRIPTIONS are available online at www.freesurfmagazine.com

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Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa

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INDOBOARD Balance Trainers are available at: Aloha Board Shop Hawaiian Island Creations ■ Hawaiian South Shore ■ Moku Hawaii ■ Tropical Rush ■ Big Island Surf Shop ■ Kai Kane ■ Hi Tech Sports W W W. I N D O B O A R D . C O M ■ ■

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Dissect the spray and notice there are three separate

Photo: Baeseman

archs of white water, one coming off each fin.

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