6 minute read
Fabric Masterclass: Velvet
fabric masterclass
VOLUPTUOUSVELVET
Advertisement
This sumptuous fabric has an intriguing history dating back thousands of years. And today, with its luxe presence and versatility, velvet beckons to be incorporated into home interiors.
The word “velvet” is so evocative. It immediate-
ly brings to mind characters from the literary world, like Romeo and Juliet. Or maybe a painting—a High Renaissance Italian art masterpiece. One might even envision a spectacular evening gown or tailored velvet suit. A timeless, elegant fabric like velvet never goes out of style, but it has evolved, and continues to do so.
Dwell 88” Fabric Sofa in Fern Velvet.
KARDIEL MODERN HOME | fall 2021 • kardiel.com | 60
Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Expensive velvet fabrics were used to cover bolster cushions in the homes of Ottoman’s royals and elites. This piece, known as a “yastik,” dates to the 17th century and is from Turkey.
DEFINING VELVET
Velvet takes its name from velu, the Middle French word for “shaggy.” It is made in a pile weave.
According to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, velvet’s structure is created by warps that are drawn up over rods or wires to make loops. As the weaving continues, the rods are removed, leaving the loops. Those loops may be cut to form a dense pile, or left uncut. Says Young, “It is a threedimensional fabric. You can sort of fall into it.”
Velvet was historically made from silk, cotton or mohair, but today, velvet fabric may also be made from polyester, nylon, rayon (also called viscose) or acetate. “The most luxurious velvets are still made from silk,” says Young. “Silk does last a long time, but it is fussy. It is dry clean only and it’s supremely absorbent.” That means that silk velvet is more commonly found in fashion than for furniture or window coverings. “You could use it judiciously on a pillow,” Young explains. “Voided velvet is often used for interiors. It’s perfect for upholstery and really lush.”
Polyester velvet, says Young, “is wash-and-wear, easy care. People are sometimes convinced that natural fi bers are better, but polyester does not wrinkle or shrink.”
ANCIENT BEGINNINGS THE POWER OF VELVET
According to Handwoven, a magazine for fi ber enthusiasts, pile weaves made from silk and linen, somewhat resembling velvet, originated in Egypt in 2000 B.C.E. Versions closer to modern velvet existed in China as early as 400 B.C.E. The use of and production of velvet then spread to places such as Greece and Turkey.
These cultures “did a lot of preparation in terms of threedimensional fabrics, but really where velvet comes to full expression is in Italy,” says textile educator, author and consultant Deborah Young. “They added so many elements.”
KARDIEL FURNITURE SHOWN BELOW
From left: Davenport 95" Fabric Sofa Sleeper in Rust velvet. • Brando 74" Fabric Sofa in Admiral velvet • Yasmin 84" Fabric Sofa in Obsidian velvet During the Renaissance, the center of the velvet world was in Lucca, a city in the Tuscany region of Italy. Florence, Genoa, and Venice were also important areas of production.
An exuberant Rococco settee, of German origin, features green silk velvet on what is called a squab pillow. It’s circa 1763.
KARDIEL MODERN HOME | fall 2021 • kardiel.com | 61
Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Talented craftspeople created the pricey, soft fabric for powerful families—including the Medici. “What made velvet so popular was its use in the Catholic church, for their vestments. And then the Medicis and other wealthy families followed suit,” says Young. They would use the velvet for garments and interior furnishings.
With the rich and infl uential besotted with velvet, the art of making the fabric was a closely protected industry. “It was a time of great secrecy,” says Young. “And there were all sorts of rules about who could wear what materials and what colors.” Sumptuary laws regulated consumption of luxury goods. A 1574 statute in England, for example, reserved crimson and scarlet velvets for the use of high nobility, such as dukes, marquises, and earls.
A pomegranate pattern—what the Met refers to as a “vegetal motif”—was popular in the Renaissance velvets. It featured fl owers, ripe pomegranates, and artichokes or thistles. Kermes, a red dye derived from an insect, especially conveyed status of the wearer.
Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Sumptous velvet has been a sign of elegance for centuries. Sir Joshua Reynolds painted "Portrait of a Woman" in the 18th century.
VELVET VARIETIES
Depending on the materials and technique, velvet can be produced in many forms. For example, with panne velvet, “they press the pile in one direction; it looks smooth and luxurious,” says Young.
Velveteen, on the other hand, is duller in appearance, and easy to clean. “It will not waterspot,” notes Young. Lyon velvet is sti , often featured for coats and hats, while chi on velvet is extremely light. Velour velvet is woven for interiors, and for apparel, it’s a knit (like those super-soft track suits we all remember from a few years ago). Crushed velvet looks like it’s been smushed; the fi bers are actually at an angle.
This embroidery sample for a men’s suit features silk and metal thread on silk velvet and dates 1800 to 1815.
KARDIEL FURNITURE SHOWN
Top: Suspend 30" Fabric Chair in Guac velvet Left: Leon 28" Fabric Chair in Rust velvet Below: Buttercup 30"Fabric Ottoman in Dazzle velvet
KARDIEL MODERN HOME | fall 2021 • kardiel.com | 62
h e Me trop olitan Museum of Art T
Ph ot o :
Made in Italy in the 15th century, this velvet was created by hand by artisans of the time, whose skills were closely guarded secrets.
LOOM-ING LARGE
In the past, weaving looms were operated by hand, by highly trained tradespeople. In 1804, the Jacquard loom was patented, transforming the textile industry, and causing woven fabrics to become more available and affordable. But there is no comparison, Young says, to the complex, silkthread, handmade velvets made by artisans in the pre-Jacquard era. “Even that with all our technology today we can’t compete with it,” she observes.
While velvet is a class of its own and has never gone out of fashion, it’s particularly en vogue right now, both in the fashion world and in home interiors.
Velvet is known for its luxe appeal, but it’s also surprisingly versatile and user-friendly. A velvet sofa can be paired with a wood statement chair, for example, to have the two complement each other. Or choose a velvet-upholstered chair to bring sophistication and warmth into a room. Jauntily placed velvet pillows can give a sense of personality. It’s no wonder that velvet has been a beloved fabric for countless generations.
Swoosh Modular 147" Framingham 3-piece Sofa in Fossil velvet
PLUSH ONE
Velvet upholstery features prominently in many Kardiel deisigns. Here are just a few of the options.
Glimmer
Dazzle
Rose
Sand Romance
Fern
Rust
Petrol
Monarch Guac
KARDIEL MODERN HOME | fall 2021 • kardiel.com | 63
