Arkansas Crossroads December 2023

Dreamy Nights in Arkansas Some of the most unforgettable lodgings in the Natural State

ARKANSAS CROSSROADS

Eleven Point Merchants: Where gifts shine Justin Gates brings Christmas magic to Delaplaine Through the lens of Crystal Robertson Corning’s Ryan Carter gives the gift of books

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DECEMBER 2023 | 3

From the Editor W

ith the release of the first edition of Arkansas Crossroads back in August, I was excited, nervous and pretty much on edge.

What would it look like? Would it be of good quality? Would people even want to read it? All these sentiments went through my mind. Jenny Tyson, who serves as everything under the sun for the publication, and I spent many long hours piecing the magazine together. During the last week of putting it together, we experienced sickness, computer issues, internet problems and even a death. Guess what? We persevered. And we didn’t kill one another—we work in the same office; about five feet of space separates us—to say there’s a lot of paper tossing and pen chunking is an understatement. It was all worth it, though, when the box truck arrived with the pallets of the magazine stacked up. We raced to the stack, tore open a box, and read each page—soaked up every single marking on the pages—much like the children of the 1990s with the Sears Christmas catalog; we were that excited. We spent the next few weeks driving all over the state, hand-

ARKANSAS CROSSROADS ing out stacks of the magazine— even signing a few autographs.

You see, we were proud of our product, but what made us the proudest was seeing the people enjoy it as much as we had.

Thank you, Arkansas. Thank you for reading our magazine.

And just know, it’s not over.

Christmas is here! It’s the most wonderful time of the year, as we are often told; the stores are packed with shoppers, the smells of the holidays fill department stores and the radio is filled with the wonderful sounds of the season. Arkansas Crossroads is proud to present our Christmas edition. Now, it’s not all about Christmas in this edition, but we do rely on it heavily to fill the pages with excitement.

In this issue, we introduce you to Pocahontas resident Crystal Robertson, who is making a

name for herself in her hometown as the unofficial Pocahontas High School sports photographer. Crystal, one of the kindest souls I’ve had the pleasure to meet, lets us into her world of photography and makes us feel right at home. Staying in Pocahontas, we travel out to Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm and let the feels of a Hallmark Christmas movie take over.

Also in this edition, we visit the SOMA District of Little Rock and introduce you to some of the most interesting, relaxing, and entertaining places in the area.

Kick your shoes off and enjoy our review of one of the state’s neatest and most relaxing Airbnb properties, The Cumberland Magnolia. We then walk a couple of blocks over to the Mockingbird, where we dive into the world’s best cheese dip—they even have the trophy to prove it.

These stories and so much more await you in these pages. Sit back, grab some hot cocoa and your favorite blanket, turn on some Silent Night and become part of Arkansas Crossroads.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all. May God bless you this holiday season and remember the reason for not just this season, but all the seasons.

John Allen French Editor-in-Chief

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EDITORIAL John Allen French

Editor-in-Chief jfrench@cherryroad.com

Michelle Bradley

Advertising Director mbradley@cherryroad.com

Jenny Tyson

Design jtyson@cherryroad.com

Advertising Team Michelle Bradley John Allen French Taylor Mixon

Writers

John Allen French, Anita Murphy, Jessica Rainwater, Jan Ziegler, James Seawel, Wyatt Jefferies, Dr. Norette Underwood

Subscription Information Dianna Risinger drisinger@cherryroad.com

ARKANSAS CROSSROADS is published quarterly and distributed free all throughout the state of Arkansas.

PUBLISHED December 2023 All contents @2023 CherryRoad Media

DECEMBER 2023 | 5

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Eddie Mae Herron Museum/Center The Eddie Mae Herron Center is many things: a museum, an education center, a community center, a heritage and culture center. The Center preserves and displays a portion of nearly two hundred years of African American history in Randolph County, Arkansas. Through photographs, displays, books and the spoken memories of the people who grew up around the old building and now care for it, the Center works to tell the story of the African American past in the county, preserving that heritage for future generations of the local African-American community and the county as a whole.

Serving as a great source of pride for the people who grew up worshiping and attending school in the old building, the Center works as an active community center, with regular planned events to bring people together for fun, for fellowship, and for education.

1708 Archer Street Pocahontas, Ar (870) 892-4433 DECEMBER 2023 | 7

CONTENTS Features 11

Getting to know you

12

An Eddie Mae Herron Christmas

13

Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm

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Spotlight on Arkansas’ most unique Airbnbs: Cumberland Magnolia, The Nancy Jones Suite, Judge Glover’s Hideout

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Mockingbird Bar and Tacos

32

Meet Crystal Robertson

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Holidays with your pets

40

Amanda Thomas: From the battlefield to the courtroom

48

The Martin Agency’s years of service

54

Corning’s Ryan Carter shares the gift of books

66

Welcome to Maynardberry

70

Eleven Point Merchants

80

Christmas visits Delaplaine

84

Arkansas Art: featuring Beau Jones

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The Travelin’ Arkansans

Cover photo is Lily Bergman, the daughter of Luke and Emma Bergman of Pocahontas 8 |

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DRIVE-THRU WINDOW

Getting to know you Hollie Glover Behind the Bar at Mockingbird Bar and Tacos

Q: What’s the craziest drink request you’ve ever received?

A: The craziest one I can share is a watermelon martini. Like, seriously, a watermelon martini? What’s wrong with a good ol’ classic?

Q: If you could create a signature cocktail, what would it be?

A: It would definitely be a “Hollie Berry Cider.” I love winter, being a Christmas baby and all. The goal is a drink that tastes and smells as good as the season.

Q: Share a memorable customer story from behind the bar.

A: Once, my ex got mistaken for a wanted person. Cops stormed in, ready to tackle him, only to realize their mistake. He was furious, thinking we set him up for a prank.

Q: If you were a drink, what would you be?

A: I’d be a spicy/not sweet margarita. A little wild and straight to the point—just like a shot of tequila.

Q: Weirdest combo of ingredients you’ve been asked to put together?

A: I can’t pinpoint one, but there have been some head-scratching moments at the mixing station for sure.

Q: Any special skills or talents?

A: I’m a baby whisperer. All babies seem to love me, and they magically stop crying when I hold them.

Q: Favorite off-menu drink to make?

A: It’s a twist on a Long Island—replace triple sec and coke with peach schnapps and sprite. No name, but it’s a winner!

Q: Any famous faces at your bar?

A: Unfortunately, no one famous has graced my bar yet. Still waiting for

that exciting moment!

Q: The most interesting bar you’ve worked at?

A: Town Pump takes the prize. It attracted characters of all kinds; it was a wild ride every night.

Q: Unforgettable memory of a troubled customer?

A: On Valentine’s Day, a guy with a ring on his finger got mouthy. I kicked him out, and the other bartender chased him outside!

Q: Oddest drink name you’ve come across?

A: The “duck fart.” It always cracks me up.

Q: If you could organize a bar crawl, where would it be?

A: New Orleans, because I’ve only been once and didn’t get to enjoy the drinks back then.

Q: Describe your ideal bar atmosphere.

A: Like a rainforest—greenery, waterfalls, dark green walls, dark wood and bird sounds. Sounds amazing, right?

Q: Underrated cocktail you think deserves more love?

A: None. They’re all overrated to me—keep it simple!

Q: If you were on a deserted island, what drink would you need?

A: As long as there’s tequila, I’ll be just fine.

Q: How did you get into bartending?

A: Started as a server and manager, then got into bartending about 10 years ago. Love the social aspect, building relationships that last a lifetime.

Q: Your go-to drink after a long night?

A: Mich Ultra and a shot of clear tequila—perfect way to unwind.

Q: If you could have a drink with someone no longer here?

A: Anthony Bourdain. His passion for food, spirits and people resonates with me.

Q: Best advice about bartending you’ve received?

A: “Try to never let anyone get all the way empty, and only give things away if YOU mess up.”

DECEMBER 2023 | 11

An Eddie Mae Herron Christmas

Celebrating African-American Heritage in Pocahontas

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ocahontas is home to a rare, historical museum documenting the county’s African-American story. It’s also a place to bring the community together with numerous notable and educational events held at the center throughout the year ending with a big Christmas Open House the first Sunday in December.

The Eddie Mae Herron Center Museum, a one-room, white frame building, is now a landmark and destination in Pocahontas, thanks to the

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By Anita Murphy individuals who recognized the historical significance of the site and had the foresight and ambition to save the building.

According to a pamphlet written

by Dr. Jan Ziegler, a member of the Black River Technical College Humanities Council and Grant Director, the building, located at the corner of Archer and Pratt Streets in Pocahontas, was constructed in 1918 to house St. Mary’s AME Church. The facility served the community as a church for the next 30 years but during that time

it was also used as a school for grades 1 through 8 for African-American students. After the religious function of the building waned, the school continued, under the tutelage of the Pocahontas School District which furnished financial support. The District also provided a bus to transport older students to Newport to attend a segregated black high school until the end of the 1964 school year after the Civil Rights legislation integrated the public schools.

From that point the building was used

as a pre-school day care center by the Black River Area Development Center (BRAD). The agency added a kitchen and a side room to the facility, removed the stage and made other alterations to the original room.

The McDonald Head Start/Day Care Center used the facility until 1985.

Permission was granted from the Pocahontas School District to use the building as a Senior Center where, once again, community events were held there.

However, upkeep of the building became a problem and in 2000, Pat Johnson and others who had attended school at the facility created the Eddie Mae Herron Center Museum naming it after the one and only teacher the school ever had. Twelve members of the African-American community formed a non-profit corporation and sought community support to save the building for posterity. The Pocahontas School district gave the property to the group and the Pocahontas City Council and many others provided the funds necessary to get the new museum off the ground. The facility was nominated by Black River Technical College to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places and was approved. The Eddie Mae Herron Center was now official.

The stated mission of the Eddie Mae Herron Center is prominently displayed on the building’s wall: “to help individuals, communities, and organizations to identify, protect and preserve the history and to foster widespread appreciation of and respect for the Africian-American culture.”

The small building is packed full of memorabilia from the founding of the church/school up to the present day with school desks and other amenities associated with education. Photos line the walls and, along with other historical artifacts, tell the history of the facility and the African-American experience in Randolph County and the country.

With original plank walls and ceiling and hardware flooring intact, the museum is a fitting testament to the days when school children in grades one

through eight gathered to learn from their teacher, Mrs. Eddie Mae Herron, whose dedication to her students is legendary.

Since its founding the Museum has hosted many events including a walk and birthday celebration on Martin Luther King, Jr. Day. Black History Month is celebrated with several related programs including a hog-killing demonstration that has received national recognition from the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. The Center was the first to observe Juneteenth, even before it became a Federal holiday, pie suppers and speaking opportunities for political candidates, social events, tours for school students, book signings, birthday parties for the oldest members of the community (a big 100th birthday bash was held recently for Willie McCarroll, a long time supporter of the center) and the Christmas Open House that includes food, entertainment, a visit from Santa Claus and gifts for the kids. Fundraising events activities are also an important part of the yearly activities and donations are greatly appreciated for maintenance and upkeep of the facility. Community sponsorships of annual events are also vital to the success of the programs.

Johnson, who serves as chair of the board of directors, and is the curator of the museum, is immensely proud of what has been accomplished in the past 20 plus years and expressed her gratitude for the continuing support of the center. Her words, from the pamphlet are below: As a child who grew up in the community in the 1950s and 60s, I am pleased to expound on the importance of the Eddie Mae Herron Center,” said Johnson. “This center is to serve as a platform to increase the infusion of African American history and culture - a way to develop the belief of the value of our people. We are hopeful that this center will allow this community the opportunity to embrace the concept of African American contributions to American society.

It is through centers such as this that racial healing, respect and understanding will be realized.

“While the African American experience was different, it did not mean that it was a tragedy. Far too often, historians and other social scientists focus on the negative victimization of blacks, showing them as responders rather than as leaders. On the contrary, African Americans were, and are, leaders, making numerous contributions to their own development,

as well as helping to transform America. We are in hopes that this center will be a challenge for others to learn more about African American history,” she said.

Johnson said the center recently received a $9,000 grant and has plans to update the displays inside the museum to make the exhibits somewhat interactive with reader rails to allow the visitor a more informative self-guided tour.

The Eddie Mae Herron Center, 1708 Archer Street, Pocahontas, Ark., is open from 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and weekends by appointment. Call 870-892-4433 for more information about upcoming events, memberships or tours of the center.

DECEMBER 2023 | 13

Cornerstone Christmas T

Creating memories

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s Tree Farm

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By JA French

n Pocahontas, a town infused in history, community and holiday spirit, Derek and Cheyenne Kildow have planted the seeds of a new holiday tradition. Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm, situated on the family’s land, has become an example of festive cheer, drawing families from all around to pick their perfect Christmas tree and create lasting memories.

Cheyenne’s dream of providing a magical escape for children began during her childhood visits to a farm owned by a church member.

The laughter, peacefulness and the chance to be a carefree kid left a lasting mark on her. “I told God back then if He would ever bless me with some land, I would try to do the same for children,” she reflects. The dream lay dormant until 2017 when Derek mentioned the idea of a Christmas tree farm. Despite initial reluctance due to their busy schedules, Cheyenne recalled her childhood prayer, realizing that it was finally being answered almost 40 years later.

The land on which Cornerstone

Christmas Tree Farm stands holds generations of memories for Derek’s family. His mother’s recollections of fishing on the pond conjure up a sense of nostalgia, connecting the farm to the roots of family history.

The couple decided that God would be the cornerstone of their venture, seeking divine guidance in building a farm that would serve both their family and the community.

Derek and Cheyenne have faced challenges, welcoming the learning curve that comes with starting a Christmas tree farm. Derek shares his journey from the inspiration drawn from fellow workers to the selection of tree varieties. “After lots of trial and error, heavy on the error,” he discovered what grows well in their region. Leyland Cypress, with its hypoallergenic properties, emerged as a focal point. The couple experiments with various tree varieties, learning valuable lessons and adapting their practices based on veteran tree farmers’ advice.

Continued on page 16 DECEMBER 2023 | 15

The couple strives to make the experience of choosing a Christmas tree at Cornerstone memorable. Visitors are welcomed by Christmas music, hot apple cider, popcorn, handmade wreaths and ornaments. The farm has become a hub of festive activities, including a planned “Feliz-Navi-Dog Day” in December, an elopement wedding and a community food drive. Letters to Santa can be mailed at the farm, promising a return letter if an address is left on the letter.

Derek emphasizes their commitment to sustainability. Choosing varieties that thrive in their region, utilizing reliable sources for seedlings and experimenting with eco-friendly practices, the Kildows are conscious of their environmental impact. The Leyland Cypress, with its unique reproduction method, adds an eco-friendly touch to their farm.

Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm has found massive support within the community. From local vendors selling products in their cottage to

plans for involvement in Christmas parades, the Kildows rely on social media and word of mouth to spread the word. The community’s positive response has fueled their determination to establish a lasting holiday tradition in Northeast Arkansas.

As the farm takes root, Derek envisions a specific number of trees sold in the coming years. Family and friends, often lending a helping hand, are the backbone of their operation. The response from customers has been overwhelmingly positive, with one second grader declaring it “the best day ever” when their class visited the property. The couple looks forward to continued growth and the opportunity to share the joy of Christmas with their community.

For the Kildows, Christmas is a time to reflect on the true meaning of the season, spending time with loved ones and creating cherished memories. As their Christmas tree farm becomes a source of holiday cheer, they find joy in witnessing children

running through the trees, eager to find the perfect one. The magic of Christmas, rejuvenated through their farm, has brought a renewed sense of wonder and anticipation, making the holiday season truly special.

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, the Kildows face a whirlwind of tasks, from stocking the Christmas cottage to preparing for the arrival of pre-cut trees. With lists to check and preparations to make, chaos is embraced, knowing that each effort contributes to the festive atmosphere awaiting visitors.

The couple have not just planted trees; they have sown the seeds of a community tradition. Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm stands as proof that the power of dreams, faith and the spirit of Christmas is just a car ride away.

As families gather and laughter fills the air, the Kildows continue to cultivate joy, one tree at a time, in the heart of Northeast Arkansas.

Families and individuals of all ages revel in the magic found at Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm

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Derek and Cheyenne Kildow of Pocahontas pose in front of their newly opened Cornerstone Christmas Tree Farm in Pocahontas. The couple is excited to welcome visitors to their festive farm as the holiday season kicks off.

DECEMBER 2023 | 17

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There’s no place like

The Cumberland Magnolia

P

laced on the historic Cumberland Street, just off South Main Street in the exciting SoMa District of Little Rock, stands a Victorian beauty with a story to tell. Purchased in June of 2023 by Olivia Wise Pate and her mother Joniece Trammel, this 1883-built home has undergone a transformation that has turned it into a sought-after Airbnb short-term rental property known as the Cumberland Magnolia.

Situated a simple two blocks from the lively action of the area, guests at the Cumberland Magnolia find themselves within walking distance of a collection of restaurants, bars, shopping spots, parks and even the Arkansas Governor’s Mansion. The strategic location, however, is just

By JA French

the beginning of what makes this house a unique and memorable place to stay.

The Cumberland Magnolia, named after the majestic magnolia tree gracing its front yard, boasts three large bedrooms, a spacious kitchen, a comfortable living area and two updated, classy bathrooms. But what truly sets this home apart is not just its historical charm or modern amenities—it’s the art.

Olivia’s husband, Zack, is a passionate art collector with a taste for pieces ranging from modern to abstract.

The walls of the home are adorned with one-of-a-kind artworks, each unique and vibrant, adding an extra layer of sophistication and creativ-

ity to the already enchanting atmosphere.

According to Trammel, the decision to acquire the property wasn’t solely driven by financial gain or the need for personal residence. Instead, it was a heartfelt desire to share the intrinsic beauty of this historic home with others.

“Our family’s vision was to create a home that offered a unique blend of historic and modern beauty. Once inside this beautiful home, a sense of both worlds emerges, leaving guests with a sense of order and tranquility,” she explained.

Guests seem to echo these sentiContinued on page 20

Left - A view of the exterior showcases the splendid Cumberland Magnolia with its majestic magnolia tree taking center stage in the front yard. Right - The living room area welcomes you with exquisite furniture and artwork, creating a perfect blend of comfort and aesthetic appeal.

DECEMBER 2023 | 19

Original hardwood floors grace the hallway of Cumberland Magnolia, complemented by an array of amazing art pieces adorning the walls. ments. A couple from Houston, Texas, who recently stayed at the Cumberland Magnolia, expressed their admiration for the charming and comfortable decor. Another visitor from the United Kingdom praised the tasteful design, highlighting the comfort of the beds and the remarkable primary bathroom.

The interior of the house is perfect-

ly complemented by the carefully selected furniture, contributing to the overall ambiance of the property. The quiet neighborhood, coupled with the peacefulness of the place, creates an inviting retreat for those seeking a rare blend of historic elegance and contemporary comfort.

In a time where history and modernity often clash, the Cumberland

Magnolia represents an harmonious coexistence of both. Olivia and Joniece have not just preserved a piece of Little Rock’s history but have also opened its doors to visitors from around the world, inviting them to experience the magic that resides within the walls of this beautifully curated Airbnb gem.

Pink Elegance: The ‘Pink Room,’ affectionately named by owner Olivia Pate’s daughter, Olive, is a charming haven within Cumberland Magnolia. This delightful bedroom, one of three in the home, radiates a warm and inviting atmosphere.

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Cumberland Magnolia’s New Custodians: Owners Olivia Pate (left) and her mother, Joniece Trammel, celebrate the day they officially became the proprietors of Cumberland Magnolia. In the photo to the right, Olivia Pate is joined by (from left) Chris Robinson of Pocahontas, her husband Zack and Arkansas Crossroads editor John Allen French.

DECEMBER 2023 | 21

Arkansas’ Mystery Airbnb Judge Glover’s Hideout in Malvern

I

n the heart of historic downtown Malvern, an Airbnb offers guests a unique opportunity to step into the past and unravel the mystery of Judge Glover. Located in the Lawyers’ Row Historic District, this restored building, once Glover’s law office, now stands as a treasure chest of Arkansas history.

Lawyers’ Row Historic District, added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2015, showcases buildings with rich stories. Glover’s Law office, constructed around 1910 by David Glover, a former U.S. Representative, was a cornerstone of this district. However, over the years, its façade underwent modifications, rendering it ineligible for inclusion in the district.

After 13 weeks of demolition and nine months of meticulous renovations, the building has been restored

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By JA French to much of its original character with a touch of modernity. The restoration project, currently under review by the Arkansas Historic Preservation Program, was a labor of love for Wallace Stone.

Stone reflects, “I have done some cool projects, but this one will always be special. The gradual discovery of historically relevant clues helped us decipher the amazing story of Judge Glover’s legacy and the impact he had on Malvern and the state of Arkansas.”

For those seeking a blend of history and adventure, the Airbnb experience invites guests to solve Judge Glover’s mystery. The immersive adventure provides a glimpse into Arkansas history, allowing participants to piece together the puzzle left behind by the enigmatic Judge Glover.

The experience, priced at $45 per person for a twohour time slot, accommodates groups of up to 12 people. A minimum charge of two people applies. Guests will enjoy amenities such as a pool table, a full kitchen and bathroom and the flexibility to bring their own beverages. WiFi is available for those who wish to document their journey or seek additional clues online.

For those who wish to extend their adventure, the Airbnb offers a cozy one-bedroom stay that sleeps four, with a pullout sofa. The space includes a pool table, a full kitchen and a bathroom. Booking details can be found on the Airbnb website.

As guests explore the mystery, they also contribute to the preservation of Arkansas history, making this experience a meaningful and memorable journey.

Director Michael Schwarz is currently working on a documentary capturing the restoration process and the Glover family’s connection to this unique piece of history.

DECEMBER 2023 | 23

Relax in history

Spend the night in the oldest building in

T

By JA French

he Lesmeister Guesthouse Suites and Vacation Rental Apartments in Pocahontas stand as a witness to the successful marriage of 19th-century charm and 21st-century luxury.

This architectural gem, the result of a $1.25 million restoration project, offers guests a unique experience in beautifully rehabilitated commercial buildings, combining historic significance with modern comforts, including environmentally friendly practices.

The Lesmeister Guesthouse caters to independent travelers seeking a secluded retreat. The absence of on-site staff and the presence of individual exterior doors for each room provide guests with the utmost privacy. This well-appointed retreat is strategically located in the heart of a 17-block national historic district, offering a restful escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life or an active exploration of the historic Arkansas town. The choice is yours, making Lesmeister Guesthouse a versatile destination for various preferences and desires.

The roots of the newest suite, The Nancy Jones, trace back to 1859 when William and Nancy Evans (later Nancy Jones) built an addition to the adjacent St. Charles Hotel, constructed in 1850. This makes this building the oldest in Pocahontas.

The structure had languished in vacancy for several years until its acquisition in 2014 by Dr. Pat Carroll, the visionary owner who sought to restore it to its original grandeur.

“In 2018, the National Park Service approved my architect’s plans for the 24 |

Pocahontas

restoration,” Dr. Carroll explains, “qualifying the project for significant state and federal income tax credits to offset much of the cost. The condition was that the building should be restored to its original state as much as possible.”

The meticulous restoration process began in 2018, focusing on the exterior’s front porch, brick tuck-pointing, window repair and replacement and the installation of a new roof and skylights to replicate the original features. The interior restoration commenced in 2020, coinciding with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, the project was completed in early 2023, unveiling a remarkable transformation that includes retail space for lease on the first floor and an upscale apartment, along with the Nancy Jones Suite of Lesmeister Guesthouse, on the second floor.

The Nancy Jones, located on the second floor of the St. Charles building, offers guests a captivating view of the 1872 courthouse and the town square. This distinctive suite is separate from the other accommodations in the Lesmeister building, situated about a block and a half away. The suite’s elevated location, accessed 20 steps from the city sidewalk, provides a sense of exclusivity.

Designed for comfort and convenience, the Nancy Jones junior suite boasts a spacious living/sleeping area with a wood stove-look gas stove for ambiance, separate heating and air conditioning, free Wi-Fi and a large flat-screen cable television.

Continued on page 26

These two images showcase the Nancy Jones Suite—a blend of historical significance and modern amenities. The suite savours a piece of history while providing all the conveniences of contemporary living.

DECEMBER 2023 | 25

Two comfortable reclining chairs invite guests to unwind, while a generously sized desk accommodates those who need to catch up on work.

The suite’s amenities include a small refrigerator, microwave oven, Keurig coffee maker and ice maker, guaranteeing guests have all they need for a comfortable stay. The king-sized bed, adorned with high thread count sheets, firm and soft pillows and a luxurious comforter, promises a restful night’s sleep. For additional guests, a comfortable inflatable mattress is available, complete with sheets, blankets and pillows, though

it’s important to note that it rests on the floor.

Luxury bathrobes and slippers add a touch of indulgence, while a “white noise machine” in the bedroom provides soothing sounds of rain, waterfalls or forest ambiance for those who prefer to drift off to sleep with calming sounds. Dr. Carroll assures guests that even in the “sleepy little town” of Pocahontas, the white noise machine can drown out any undesired neighborhood sounds, offering a peaceful retreat.

Guests staying at the Nancy Jones

have the added convenience of free public parking available around the town square, allowing them to explore the historic district with ease.

Lesmeister Guesthouse Suites & Vacation Rental Apartments stands not only as a luxurious accommodation option but also as an indication of the dedication of Dr. Pat Carroll in preserving and revitalizing a piece of Pocahontas’s rich history. This architectural gem invites visitors to step back in time while enjoying the comforts of the present, creating an unforgettable experience in the Ozarks.

Who was Nancy Jones?

Nancy Jones, affectionately known as “Aunt Nanc,” is remembered as a savvy businesswoman and the owner of the St. Charles, the oldest and largest of Pocahontas’ grand hotels.

Born as Nancy James, Jones married William Allaire, the architect who designed and built the St. Charles in 1853. The hotel quickly became a primary center of local social life and remained so for over half a century.

However, tragedy struck early in Jones’ life when her first husband died within a few years of the hotel’s construction.

Jones later married William Evans, who became a Confederate recruiting officer for Northeast Arkansas. Tragically, Evans was shot and killed by a Union assassin in the hotel’s lobby in 1863.

The St. Charles continued to play a significant role in the Civil War when, later that same year, Confederate General Jeff Thompson and several prominent local Confederate officers were captured by Union troops at the hotel.

Jones’ business acumen and determination persevered, and she continued to operate the hotel until the early 1900s when she married Green R. Jones, a prominent local merchant and planter. The hotel, famous throughout the region for its hospitality and good food, burned down in the 1920s.

Jones lived a long and prosperous life, and her son went on to become a general who attended West Point.

Jones’ legacy as a successful businesswoman and leader in the Pocahontas community continues to inspire and captivate locals and visitors alike.

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Historic Charm: The exterior of Pocahontas’ oldest building showcases its timeless architecture. The Nancy Jones Suite, located on the second floor, adds a touch of elegance to this historic landmark, providing a glimpse into the town’s rich past.

DECEMBER 2023 | 27

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ARKANSAS LOCATIONS

Take a dip inside

Mockingbird Bar & Tacos T

he true jewel of Little Rock’s vibrant SoMa District is a dining gem that has been quietly redefining the SoMa scene.

Mockingbird Bar and Tacos has set its position as a taco sanctuary, where authenticity meets innovation.

The street tacos, a staple since its inception, continue to provoke taste buds with a burst of fresh Mexican

By JA French

flavors. But what sets Mockingbird apart are its bold additions to the menu. Who would have thought a hamburger could steal the show at a taco bar? Introduced during Rock City Burger Week a couple years ago, this daring creation not only survived but thrived, earning a permanent spot on the menu.

The owners of a nearby café, Root

Cafe, Jack Sundell and Corri Bristow-Sundell, passed the torch to JLC Entertainment Holdings, owned by Johnny Campbell and the Einhorn duo—Harry and Joe. The transition signaled a new chapter for Mockingbird, promising stability in business operations and an exciting future under the leadership of this passionate team.

Continued on page 30 DECEMBER 2023 | 29

Originally known as Dos Rocas, the establishment saw a metamorphosis when the Sundells assumed sole ownership in 2019. The rebranding ushered in a menu overhaul, showcasing the best of Arkansas’ local and seasonal ingredients. Now, under JLC Entertainment Holdings, Executive Chef Stephen “Buddy” Seals, with an impressive background including Capital Hotel and John Daly’s Steakhouse, will continue to steer the ship at Mockingbird.

JLC Entertainment Holdings, a venture by the Einhorn-Campbell collaboration, has big plans for Mockingbird.

Short-term goals include enhancing the bar program. Brunch made a triumphant return, and a multitude of specials were added to the menu.

Our journey to Mockingbird Bar and Tacos was nothing short of great.

Joining forces with my buddy, Chris Robinson, we embarked on a quest to discover the hidden treasures of Arkansas. SoMa screamed, and Mockingbird welcomed us with open arms, becoming our favorite spot in the Natural State.

But Mockingbird is not just about tacos. The wings, carrot tacos and rice dishes are unmatched. Every bite is a masterpiece of flavors, leaving you craving more. Within the laughter and camaraderie, Mockingbird became more than a restaurant—it became a home away from home.

Bar manager Hollie Glover and her crew, including the charismatic bartender John (or Tribb, or whatever else you want to call him), made our experience unforgettable. Chris often teases me for my straightforward food choices, but my beef nachos—just chips, beef and cheese dip—were a revelation. The cheese dip, an award-winning masterpiece, deserves a place in cheese dip heaven.

If you’re in search of an unforgettable culinary experience, Mockingbird Bar and Tacos is the answer. Located at 1220 S. Main St. in Little Rock’s SoMa district, this place is a testimony to the combination of tradition and innovation. Don’t miss out on the chance to savor the best tacos, burgers and more that Arkansas has to offer.

The picture below captures bartender and resident comedian John at Mockingbird Bar and Tacos. On the opposite page, a trophy proudly stands, providing evidence that Mockingbird Bar and Tacos boasts the title of having the best cheese dip in the world. The combination of John’s humor and the winning cheese dip make for a great experience at this wonderful establishment.

A plate of plain ole nachos from Mockingbird Bar and Tacos, featuring a generous topping of perfectly seasoned ground beef.

30 |

DECEMBER 2023 | 31

Everything is Crystal Looking through the lens of I

Crystal Robertson

By JA French

n the fall, on Football Friday nights, Pocahontas’ Crystal Robertson can be seen on the sidelines, with her lens pointed at the action on the field. At 37 years old, she’s living her best life, capturing the heart of life’s victories through the lens of her trusty Canon camera.

Crystal, known for her energetic spirit and inin fectious enthusiasm, has carved out a niche for herself as the unofficial photographer for the Pocahontas spe Redskins, specializing in ation-packed pho sports photography that brings the commucommu nity together.

Her journey into the world of phopho tography began u n e x p e c t e d l y, driven by a sim simna ple love for nature.

“I began taking pictures of ‘Nature’ with my phone, and I loved it,” she recounts with a smile. Little did she know that this ini initial fascination would blossom into a passion that would shape her life in ways she couldn’t have imagined.

The turning point came when the high school girls’ basketball team clinched the state championship in Hot Springs. Crystal, armed with her camera, captured the defining moments of that exciting week. “I enjoyed taking pictures of the great plays, and I found I really liked the action,” she recalls. This experience marked the beginning of Crystal’s unofficial role as the high school’s go-to photographer for significant events.

Reflecting on her journey, Crystal reminisces about the first photo that made her think, “Wow, I love this.”

It was a candid shot of her aunt and uncle in Van Buren at Blue Springs.

The emotional connection captured in that moment set Crystal’s love for photography and inspired her to continue exploring the art form.

As with any artist, Crystal draws inspiration from others in the field. She mentions photographers like Brandon Woelfel from NYC and Mike Aussie from Australia, both of whom she follows on Instagram. Their unique styles and perspectives have influenced Crystal’s work, adding depth and diversity to her growing portfolio.

One might wonder how photography has influenced Crystal’s outlook on the world. “They bring people together,” she explains. Sharing her photos on social media has become a communal experience, eliciting heartwarming comments from family members, friends and even the subjects of her photographs. The positive reception has reinforced Crystal’s belief in the uniting power of visual storytelling.

When asked about her preferred

32 |

photography genres, Crystal doesn’t hesitate. “I like taking action photos the best. Football is what I enjoy the most, and I’m hoping that each year, I get better.” Her passion for sports photography shines through in the dynamic shots she captures, freezing moments of victory and teamwork on the field.

Balancing her role as the de facto high school photographer with personal life and studies is a challenge Crystal pilots with grace. While not officially appointed, she ensures she has the coach’s permission to be present at games. “There’s a very short window for high school football, so it is a priority for me,” she explains.

The dedication is evident in the quality of her work, as she strives to capture every crucial play with precision and flair.

Crystal’s focus on sports photography is evident when she talks about specific projects or themes she’s passionate about. “For me, it’s all about sports photography. I like action photos. I also like pictures of nature.

They are not always the same as in sports photography,” she explains, showcasing the assortment within her photographic interests.

Discussing her preferred techniques, Crystal emphasizes the importance of capturing the entire football play. “I really like getting the pictures where you can see the most players...it takes 11 players doing their jobs for the play to come through, and I like getting those pictures where you can see most of the players at one time.” Her attention to detail and commitment to storytelling through her lens set her apart in the world of sports photogContinued on page 34

l Clear

DECEMBER 2023 | 33

raphy.

When it comes to gear, Crystal proudly uses a Canon camera. “It was easier for me, and now I have gotten used to their products and different lenses.” Choosing the right equipment has been essential in helping her achieve the desired results in her action-packed shots.

Despite her success, Crystal acknowledges the challenges she faces. “For me, it’s not always being able to make every game. Going to the home games is not hard, but sometimes getting to travel to away games is not something I am always able to do.” Weather rarely hinders her, but the logistics of attending every game present the occasional obstacle.

Looking ahead, Crystal envisions herself continually improving her photography skills. “Always to get better in my photography, but I am happy with what I am doing now.” While she doesn’t explicitly see photography as a career, she recognizes the joy it brings to her and the community.

As for specific goals, Crystal keeps it practical. “My only goal at this time is to be able to afford new equipment. It changes all the time, and technology is always better.” The desire to stay current in the ever-evolving world of photography drives her aspiration for upgraded gear.

Addressing criticism, Crystal reveals, “I am my worst critic.” Her commitment to improvement is untiring, and she sees each critique as an opportunity to refine her skills.

“Not all my pictures are great, and I look to be better with each new picture. Editing takes the longest, and I work to get better all the time.”

While she hasn’t organized a formal exhibition, Crystal generously shares her work on social media. Her digital gallery serves as a visual narrative of the community’s triumphs and celebrations, capturing moments that will be cherished for years to come.

Outside of photography, Crystal’s craftiness extends to hobbies like scrapbooking and junk journaling.

These creative pursuits allow her

to merge her love for photography with tangible, personalized gifts for family and friends. “I love giving my pictures as gifts,” she says with a sparkle in her eyes.

For those just starting in photography, Crystal offers practical advice.

“You don’t have to buy an expensive camera at first. Practice with your phone like I did. Start out with a camera package that has a couple of lenses, and then you can add as you use it more.” Her emphasis on doing what you love echoes throughout her journey, highlighting the importance of finding joy in the art form.

In the closing moments of our conversation, Crystal leaves aspiring photographers with a simple yet profound insight: “Do what you like...it will always feel good.” It’s this carefree and genuine approach to photography that defines Crystal Robertson’s journey, summarizing the spirit of a small-town photographer making a big impact, one click at a time.

Sports photos by Crystal Clear Photography

34 |

DECEMBER 2023 | 35

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1206 Gordon Duckworth Drive Piggott, AR 72454 DECEMBER 2023 | 37

Sharing the holidays with

By Dr. Norette L. Underwood

S

haring the holidays with our furry friends makes the season festive and special. There are many fun and safe ways to spend the holidays with your pet, whether it’s a playful puppy, frolicking feline, or any other pet companion. In this article, there are many ways to include your pet in the activities of the season.

Make sure your holiday decorations are pet-safe. Try to place decorations out of your pet’s reach. Tinsel and other dangling objects are very inviting to cats and dogs. Use plastic ornaments, make sure cords are secured, and attach the Christmas tree so it cannot be knocked over by climbing cats or rowdy dogs. Keeping all these objects out of your pet’s reach may avoid a trip to your veterinarian.

Holiday costumes and photo shoots are a great way to involve your pet and create lasting memories of the season. You could even take a photo for a holiday card to send to friends.

Baking homemade pet-safe treats with pumpkin, peanut butter, carrots, and oats can be fun for the entire family. You can even give some of the treats as gifts to other friends who have a pet. You could even prepare some for your local shelter.

Plan activities that include your pet in Christmas celebrations. Indoor play sessions, treasure hunts with toys or treats around the house, or even a nice outdoor hike if weather permits.

Be mindful at mealtime of your pets. Many foods can be harmful to your furry buddy. Even when they look at you with pitiful eyes begging for food, be careful what you feed them. Chocolate, nuts, certain spices, and fatty foods can be harm38 |

your pets

ful. Put some of your pet’s treats on the table so if they beg, you can give them something that will not upset their tummy.

Make sure your pet has an area where they can go that is calm, quiet, and away from the festivities.

Have some of their toys, bed, and water available. Giving them a safe haven will help them take a break from all the activities of the season and make them feel more secure.

Capture your memories from the celebrations and post on social media or create a scrapbook to remember your holiday season. All these activities will help strengthen your human-animal bond with your pet. It is also fun for you, your pet, friends, and family.

Make sure that your house is safe for your pet babes. Be sure that all your wires, decorations, and candles are monitored closely for any hazards.

This is especially necessary if you have a house full of people.

During this holiday season, consider helping other pets in need.

Donate or volunteer at your local shelter. Have a toy or food drive to benefit needy critters. Many pets are surrendered during this time of year, and any help, both monetary and supply-wise, is appreciated.

Your time is valuable to help clean and spend time with the animals.

You can also celebrate the lives of loved ones, including pets that have touched your life at some point. Create new traditions that remember them and make the season meaningful.

Hopefully, these tips will help you have a wonderful holiday season by showing your furry companions

how much you care and appreciate all the unconditional love they give you all year long.

Have a great holiday season, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year.

DECEMBER 2023 | 39

Meet Amanda T

From Army Sergeant t Advocate of Justice

By JA French

A

t 42, Amanda Thomas, a veteran turned attorney, is not your typical legal professional. Known for her ethical approach, empathetic demeanor and staunch honesty, she has carved out a unique path in the legal world, making a difference in the lives of her clients and her community.

Growing up in Evening Shade, where she graduated in 1999 as class valedictorian, Amanda always admired her mom’s attorney during her parents’ custody battle, sparking a desire to help families and children in need. Although her path to becoming an attorney faced a detour when her reserve unit was activated for active duty, her commitment never wavered. She eventually graduated a year later, serving in the army until 2011. Post-military, she became a probation/parole officer, where she witnessed the pressing need for attorneys in rural Arkansas.

Amanda’s military background plays a significant role in shaping her perspective. The environment of the military has made her open-minded and better equipped to connect with people, a quality she believes makes her a more effective attorney and advocate.

Her journey was marked by mentors like Ryan Cooper and Judge Erwin during her probation and parole 40 |

days. They instilled in her valuable lessons about attention to detail, effective leadership, resilience and respect for others — principles she carries into her legal practice today.

Specializing in criminal law, Amanda finds fulfillment in scrutinizing the state’s cases, holding prosecutions accountable and ensuring law enforcement respects individual rights. Her passion for justice extends beyond the courtroom; she envisions more funding for the Arkansas Public Defenders Commission and the establishment of mental health and veterans’ courts across the state.

Family is at the core of Amanda’s life, with two young sons serving as her best distractions after a stressful day. Her ability to connect with clients, no matter what their issues, stems from her personal experiences — struggles, long separations from family and exposure to extreme environments during her military service.

Amanda’s message is clear: Go to law school, make a difference and use your GI Bill. She urges aspiring lawyers not to underestimate the impact they can have on their communities.

Looking ahead, she aspires to run for district judge, advocating for more veteran attorneys to address the unique challenges faced by those who have served. She actively mentors young attorneys, emphasizing the importance of working for the client’s best interests.

Her biggest achievements are not accolades but the transformation of former clients who walk into her office, thanking her for treating them like actual people and helping them change their lives. Amanda’s motivation is clear — to help others and Continued on page 42

Thomas to

DECEMBER 2023 | 41

dispelling common misconceptions about veterans. Amanda emphasizes that having PTSD doesn’t make one crazy, and education on this topic is crucial. She lives her life by the Army values, applying loyalty, duty, respect, selfless service, honor, integrity and personal courage to her legal practice.

Leading her staff at her office located in Walnut Ridge with military principles, she fosters a sense of teamwork and mutual respect.

Ethics, aligned with military regulations and the UCMJ, are non-ne-

gotiable for her. She is on a mission to break the stigma that all lawyers are unethical liars.

Drawing parallels between military missions and casework, Amanda approaches each case with a wellthought-out plan, prepared for the battle in court. Her dedication is symbolized by the military bun she wears — a reminder that she is always ready for the challenge.

Beyond her legal practice, she envisions continuing education classes for both the military and legal

I’ve learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.

-Maya Angelou 42 |

communities to address the trauma of combat and destigmatize seeking help for mental health issues.

Her proactive approach reflects her commitment to making a lasting impact.

Amanda Thomas isn’t just an attorney; she’s a force for positive change, a bridge between the military and legal worlds, and a light of hope for those seeking justice.

In her journey, she proves that being ethical, empathetic and true to one’s values is not just a professional choice but a way of life.

AMANDA J. THOMAS

Attorney at Law

A local law firm with a world of experience.

Free confidential consultation or case review.

Schedule your appointment by phone today.

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DECEMBER 2023 | 43

Sweetness in theDARK I

By Wyatt L. Jefferies

t shined on soft, plate-like patterns masking the concrete floor—sort of like a miniature golden chandelier with nine tassels, each clenching a colored jewel. It reminded him of the airport runway lights that he saw very clearly at night while working as a ramp agent in the summer during college, or the colorful Christmas

tree of his childhood friend, posted in front of their floral curtains. It was passively attention starved, in competition but winning with no application. It was overwhelming in a space with lots of people, yet no one else noticed it.

Leon picked it up out of admiration, and contemplated this decision for the next ten years. It had no value, was just a well-crafted piece of clunky junk jewelry. Too nice to just leave it there on the floor so after a quick glance of the room, he saw its match dangling from her right ear, accentuating the feminine blood flowing through her boundless neck and perfectperfect ly made-up skin. Her hair was long, and its color was dark copper. She wasn’t as refulgent as her earear ring, but her smile, wide and toothy, was nice.

She was engaged in a conversation.

She owned those earrings and they for the moment, pleaspleas antly occupied him on that dreary day. She was Karen Fern Smith.

Touching her was easy on the cheap air mattress that usually had to be replaced every week. He returned it with little shame after the first time. He’d press all the air out of it by stamping his feet around it to carefulcareful ly push out the air pockets, then roll it together and place it back in its box.

The next step was a vis visdif it to Wal-Mart, a different one each time; ready to exchange the mattress for another.

No elaborate exex cuse necessary.

“It didn’t hold up” was always

44 |

his verbal answer to a question that he was never quite asked. Not a lie and not completely true, considering what the air inside the mattress was required to withstand.

Loving her came naturally throughout that contented one bedroom apartment with cheap, but new gray carpeting. The soundscape outside was sirens singing as loudly as their bright colors, children happily unaware of their naiveté, and car doors slamming with angst from either having to go to some dead-end job or come home to that apartment for beginners and society’s rejects. Inside Leon’s apartment, the flavor was Karen’s honey graham crackers, her roasted tomato chicken dish and strawberry bubble bath. The sound inside was John Legend howling about how ordinary their flaws were or Nina Simone quivering them to soft closeness, soft kisses, soft smiles, soft lighting, soft debates, soft nothingness, softly tasting and savoring the day on each other’s bodies and restful dreams about it all. Their saliva flowed heavily in pursuit of not being the slacking reciprocator.

There was nothing but sweetness in the dark.

She watched cautiously as each man entered the room and was having a mental thrill judging each one. The internal banter within her was real, but the voices were silenced when her ungracious Valentine walked through the door. “He’ll be your husband,” is a voice that spoke to her heart directly from God himself is how she remembered it. She didn’t understand how all the other single women could be so easily distracted when the room was ripe for their future pairings.

And kissing him came easy and so did submission as he caressed her every morning and every night, pretty much every time he saw her. The compliments weren’t confined. “Your hair looks nice” or “Baby, you’re so pretty” or “Baby, that outfit was made for

you.” But it was his extreme curiosity about her that would make her drop to her knees with so much vigor and melt faster than butter dropped in an active volcano. “What’s your favorite color? What do you dream about at night? What makes you cry? Where did your middle name come from?”

His desire to discover her filled her with love songs and more questions about herself. Sometimes she’d have an answer, but most times she’d have to get back to him later. Sometimes she consulted her mother who always seemed to know what to say.

her state – they traveled back and forth.

Leon did nab a job that day and a phone number and somewhat of a life partner. As he walked her to her car, an older modeled station wagon, he thought to himself, “that’s not hot” and had to ask, “Do you have children?”

She smiled. “No, this is my mother’s old car. I wrecked mine a few months ago.”

“Oh, were you okay?”

“Karen, you wear more green than anybody I know,” her mother said.

“And you’re bold enough to put it on your eye lids.” Or, “When I was in college, I took a women’s history class and was smitten by the independence and courage of Fanny Fern so I gave you Fern as a middle name in hopes that you’d grow up one day and take some of her energy.”

“Yes, but it totaled my car out.”

Karen couldn’t wait to help Leon explore her better. She even had plans to find out more about him one day.

“What kind of movies do you like?”

It was 2004. The hotel conference center was filled with good looking people carrying leather cases, fabric-laden binders and notebooks ready to begin their careers or take them to the next level. Recent college graduates and young professionals came looking for experience, only to find they already needed some to get their feet in the door. But employers did want their energy and fresh perspective. Older professionals came to apply what was tried and true in their 10, 20 and some 30-plus years of work history. Employers wanted their golden knowledge, but were only able to offer junior-level salaries. The haves were doing a great job of separating from the have nots.

Work was good if you could get it.

“Cool. I’m gonna call you. Make sure you answer your phone.”

It was winter. They filled their senses with each other until many winters worth of snow and ice melted, dried and was replaced by sweat-soaked days outside and in. From the sad depths of rural Arkansas, his home, to the progress Georgia promised,

“What side of town do you live on?”

“I live in Decatur with my parents.”

“Ok.” “You should take me to the movies sometime.”

“I don’t care.”

“I will. Thanks again for making sure the other half of me was complete,” as she dangled her head.

Confused, Leon asked, “What does that mean?”

“Thank you for my earring.”

“Sure. You’re welcome. They’re very pretty.”

She didn’t try to conceal the fact that she was also waiting on him to get to his car. He was aware.

They met at a train station in downtown Atlanta, the plan was a movie first and then dinner. He saw her standing out front. She looked amazing, 25 years old, and no 21 yearold co-ed would be bold enough to make a comparison. It made him feel special that she cared so much about him that she took the extra care to

make sure her look was right. Her hair was curled perfectly. The outfit was creative and tasteful for a cool January date. He felt inspired to ride her around in something better than an older model Buick Regal but was glad that even though she knew what she would be getting into—an old, unstylish car, she still cared enough to come dressed like she was being whisked away in a million-dollar yacht.

Seems like yesterday Leon gave so much for all the sweet moments that come about when the lights are low.

It was nostalgia Leon lived in as the agile gentlemen ran and tackled each other on the television screen before him. Not even their best performance could hold his attention. A smell from the kitchen wafted into the living room and lingered under his nose where he imagined the fragrance to be some long-ago roasted tomato chicken dish, but it was only spaghetti. As hard as he tried to excavate his mind of all the memories that fueled his daily interactions with Karen and love her in a contemporary time, his earlier explorations made her hollow fast and she never re-filled.

Karen was happy to be with him. To be with someone so attentive. She removed three plates from the cabinet, turned the heat down under the pot and called Leon’s name. When he turned to her, she began telling him about her recurring dream about being chased through the city by her favorite old maid aunt. She knew he’d be there. She knew he would listen.

And Leon knew the little boy lining up action figures around the house, and talking to them as he would a younger sibling would never see the energy and love that created him. To Leon Jr., Leon Sr. and Karen would only appear as giant mosquitoes, the kind at grandma’s house in the middle of nowhere Arkansas, humming in a secret language, fluttering with fury and always competing for blood. His toys provided more warmth, even if he did put it there—a little something he picked up from his mother.

DECEMBER 2023 | 45

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The Martin Agency

A 115-year legacy of service to community

By Jessica Rainwater

“It was a quiet morning in the old Randolph County Bank Office in mid-March 1908. Outside a cold rain fell steadily. There were few customers that morning. The bank’s young assistant cashier, Lantie Martin, gazed thoughtfully through the window across court square…at the mud streets, the courthouse with its iron picket fence to keep out the hogs and cattle, and the brick buildings, which lined the south and west sides of the square.

On returning home from the University of Arkansas in June 1907, the 18-year-old Lantie had become the bank’s $ 20-a-month assistant cashier. Now, for nine months or more, he had been the assistant to J.D. Wells, the bank’s cashier. The bank occupied the ground floor of 48 |

the two-story building where the George Baltz Appliance Co., is now located.

Celebrates Its Golden Anniversary Next Week,’ published on April 3, 1958, written by Henry A. Ritgerod.

“You know Dalie, we ought to be in the fire insurance business,” the young cashier told Wells. “It would sure help us financially. Why don’t we try to buy Tom Campbell’s agency upstairs?”

The Olvey family legacy of service and commitment to the citizens of Randolph County began 115 years ago in 1908 when the agency was founded by Lantie R. Martin. Originally stationed on the square where Western Auto is now, The Martin Agency has seen the world change from the horse and buggy era, to the first automobiles, the first jets, and beyond. Originally only selling fire insurance it now covers a wide range of insurance from family, home, vehicle, and much more.

Today, the Martin Agency is a partnership of Lantie Martin, his son Joe R. Martin, C.E.Olvey, his sonin-law, and John V. Baltz…….a business which, through the years has contributed its part to civic leadership, and community improvement…”

– excerpt from the Pocahontas Star Herald article ‘The Martin Agency

According to the same 1958 edition of the Pocahontas Star Herald quoted above, The Martin Agency was

At left, The Martin Agency: Rob Olvey, Michelle Olvey, Melissa Eason, Jessica West, Emily Luffman, Netia Olvey and Bob Olvey

one of only two insurance companies in Pocahontas at the time. The Martin Agency is the only one that remains. The paper also reported the first few years were very hard for the Martin Agency, as a fire department and water works utilities did not exist yet. A fire in 1915 took out much of the square and many homes, causing staggering losses for the company.

“My father was always really great about encouraging me to follow my dreams,” Rob said. “But being an insurance agent was in my blood.”

However, The Martin Agency would prevail. Lantie later diversified, opening the Pocahontas Federal Savings and Loans in 1935, and then the Guaranty Investment Co.

“The best part of this job is taking care of people, being there in their time of need, and taking care of people the way we would want to be treated is the top priority,” Rob said.

A huge 50th celebration for The Martin Agency, the largest insurance agency in Arkansas at the time, took place in 1958. Insurance agents from across Arkansas, family, friends, customers, and the entire town of Pocahontas attended the celebration to show their respect to the Martin Agency.

Rob’s wife Michelle is also an agent with the agency.

Rob grew up in the agency with both of his parents working hard to make sure area residents had the insurance they needed and had a shoulder to lean on when things were tough.

Rob’s father, Bob Olvey still works

in his office on any given day of the week.

Bob is a lifetime resident of Pocahontas who has lived on the same Pocahontas Street his entire life. He attended Pocahontas schools where he was a model student and bass drummer in the high school band.

He is the son of C.E. Olvey and Jean Martin Olvey. C.E. ran the business alongside his father-in-law Lantie, and his brother-in-law Joe R. Martin.

Bob began his career at the agency when he graduated from Arkansas State University in 1970.

He took over management of the agency when his father retired in 1987.

Continued on page 50

Today you will still find the descendants of Lantie manning The Martin Agency, ready to help families insure their valuables and always a phone call away for their customers during times of need.

The Martin Agency remains a family-owned and operated independent insurance agency, now serving four states; Arkansas, Tennessee, Missouri, and Colorado. The agency is located at 210 West Broadway today, across the street from the original Pocahontas Federal Savings and Loan building, which at one time also housed the agency.

Rob Olvey is the fourth generation of his family to run the Martin Agency and he says the Olvey’s aren’t going anywhere. Rob graduated from Pocahontas High School and Arkansas State University, where he earned a Bachelor’s degree in finance.

The Martin Agency on the square: The original Martin Agency stationed on the square on Everett Street hard at the agency and can be found DECEMBER 2023 | 49

Bob and Netia Olvey married in 1978, and she took on a position at the Martin Agency shortly after.

At first, she worked part-time but quickly moved into the accounting role at the agency.

Netia is a lifetime resident of Randolph County. She grew up on a farm between Attica and Warm Springs, the daughter of Bill and Elsie Hayes. She attended the Maynard school district.

Netia and Bob bought and restored the Olvey family home on Thomasville, the heart of Pocahontas, in 1983. The pair look forward to enjoying the rest of their lives with a view from the front porch of the family home.

The home was originally the home of Bob’s grandparents, Lantie and Ona. The Martin Agency also boasts that they have some of the most caring, and loyal employees in the business.

“We couldn’t do anything without the ladies who work for us,” Bob said.

Pocahontas Native and Martin Agency Agent Jessica West is a PHS graduate of 2003. She has one daughter, 16-year-old Brennyn.

West began as a customer service representative eight years ago and became a licensed agent one year later.

“The people here are like family,” West said. “I like helping people, especially in this tough economy, it feels good to be able to help the people in our community.”

Melissa Eason is a customer service representative, but she is currently studying to take the licensing exam to become an agent. Eason is married to Logan Eason and has three children; 18-year-old Alex Ramirez, 16-year-old Adrianna Ramirez, and 7-year-old William Eason.

Pocahontas native and customer service representative Emily Luffman is the newest member of the Mar50 |

tin Agency team. She said what she loves about working at the Martin Agency is, “interacting with people and helping customers.”

The Olvey family holds a strong commitment to serving the community.

Netia has worked on projects that primarily affect low-income families. She started the first community-wide Christmas basket program in Randolph County to ensure that children in poverty would have food and presents on Christmas day.

She also worked with the Randolph County Humane Society as an abuse/neglect investigator until 2009. She also plays an instrumental role in fundraising efforts for the spay/neuter program.

Bob serves on the Black River Technical College (BRTC) governing body, the Board of Trustees. He served on the Volunteer Fire Department for many years and has been a part of many worthwhile fundraising projects that have had a positive impact on the citizens of Pocahontas, such as the construction of the helipad at the local Five Rivers Hospital and helping organize the first 911 emergency system in Randolph County.

Rob serves on the city council, and Chamber of Commerce. He recently left his position as secretary on the BRTC Foundation Board; which he served on for eight years. He, his wife Michelle, and the couple’s three children 15-year-old Mathias, 14-year-old Ruby, and 3-year-old Lilly, are members of St. Paul’s Catholic Church.

The Olvey’s legacy of caring and serving others is ingrained in who they are and can be seen every time you walk through the door of The Martin Agency. Every employee has a smile on their face and the love for their work can be seen in their faces as they make sure their customers are taken care of.

50th celebration of the Martin Agency in 1958

DECEMBER 2023 | 51

In the air there’s a feeling of Christmas, and we hope it fills your heart and soul with enough warmth, cheer and contentment to last all year.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the Arkansas Crossroads staff.

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Bookin’ it!

Ryan Carter shares his love of reading

I

n Clay County, a literary activist named Ryan Carter, just 29 years old, has been quietly but strongly shaping communities through a project that spreads the joy of reading to every corner of the state.

Carter, a history buff with a bachelor’s degree in the subject, is not your typical book lover. He doesn’t work in a grand building with towering bookshelves, but rather, he operates out of the MB Ainley Community Center in Corning. However, his impact exceeds the confines of a traditional library, reaching towns and communities that may not have a public library of their own.

In July of this year, inspired by his deep love for books, Carter embarked on a mission to set up Little Free Libraries across Arkansas.

Armed with a vision and the determination to make reading accessible to all, he began placing these community-driven libraries in areas without a public library, guaranteeing that literature is within reach for everyone.

His first placements were in the towns of Knobel, Datto and Peach Orchard in Clay County. Since then, he has tirelessly expanded his

By JA French

project, setting up 31 boxes in 11 counties so far. What sets Carter’s initiative apart is not just the act of placing books in communities, but the careful care he takes in curating the selection of books for each stand.

“I don’t just fill it with old books that would otherwise be thrown away,” Carter emphasized. “I put thought into the selection of books.

I always include a bible, a few children’s books, a recipe book, some type of hobby book, some best sellers from authors such as John Grisham and Danielle Steel and others. I fill it with books that I would want to read.”

Carter’s approach reflects his genuine desire to foster a love for reading in every individual. “I read almost every day,” he shared. “If, as a result of the Little Free Libraries, someone decides to read more or finds a book that they love, I will be very satisfied. It was my love of books that prompted this endeavor.”

Communities have responded with overwhelming excitement, embracing the Little Free Libraries as cherished centers of knowledge and entertainment. Some boxes, Carter

notes, are brimming with books, while others are more modestly stocked—an indication to how each community utilizes and supports its library.

As we search into the significance of Carter’s project, it’s crucial to examine literacy rates in the United States. According to recent USA literary test score results, a concerning percentage of the population struggles with basic reading skills. Initiatives like Carter’s not only make books physically accessible but also play a vital role in combating illiteracy.

Reading is not just a pastime; it’s a cornerstone of education, personal growth and societal progress. As literacy rates directly impact academic achievement, employment opportunities and even health outcomes, the importance of initiatives like Little Free Libraries becomes completely evident.

Carter’s sights are set on an ambitious goal for the upcoming year.

“Next year I’m going to work towards 150 boxes and hope to put them in all 75 counties in Arkansas,” he declared with determination.

DECEMBER 2023 | 55

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Four fun facts about the month of December D

ecember is arguably the most festive month of the year. The holiday season and all the gatherings with family and friends make the final month of the year a busy time. But a peek under the proverbial hood reveals that there’s more to December than the holiday season.

1. Armchair linguists might know that the Latin word “decem” means “ten,” which is a little curious given that December is the twelfth month of the year. So why isn’t December the tenth month of the year? Like other months on the modern calendar, including October and November, December once occupied a different place on the calendar, namely the Julian calendar that was used prior to the adoption of the Gregorian calendar. Back then, December was the tenth month on the calendar.

Though its position changed when the Gregorian calendar was adopt-

58 |

ed, its name remained the same.

2. It’s easy to overlook in a month populated by holidays like Chanukah, Christmas and Kwanzaa, but the winter solstice is a significant day on the calendar as well. According to the Farmer’s Almanac, the 2023 winter solstice occurs on December 21 at 10:27 p.m. EST for the northern hemisphere. The winter solstice might not be sun worshippers’ favorite day of the year, as it’s the day with the least amount of sunlight all year long. However, one positive to keep in mind is that, once the winter solstice occurs, each day thereafter experiences a gradual increase in daylight. That should give anyone yet another reason to celebrate in December.

3. December has historically been a month of firsts, particularly for women and politicians. On December 1, 1919, Lady Nancy Astor

became the first woman to serve in the British House of Commons. Exactly 69 years later, Benazir Bhutto was nominated for the role of prime minister of Pakistan. Bhutto ultimately became the first woman to be elected as head of a democratic government in a Muslim-majority country. Political firsts in December are not limited to events involving women. A year after Bhutto was nominated, Russia’s Mikhail Gorbachev became the first Soviet Russian leader to visit the Vatican and meet the Pope.

4. January might be the month people most associate with efforts to change their fortunes, but the birthstone of December also is considered a symbol of good fortune. The Farmer’s Almanac notes that one of the birthstones of December is turquoise, which some believe is symbolic of good fortune and success.

DECEMBER 2023 | 59

60 |

M

Christian holiday season traditions

any adjectives can be used to describe the holiday season, including festive, jolly and religious. Another word that may come to mind is tradition. Traditions factor heavily into holiday celebrations of faith and family.

craft projects. Most of them contain small prizes like chocolate treats or other trinkets behind each date on the calendar. Advent wreaths have four candles (three purple and one pink). One is lit each Sunday of Advent. The evergreen wreath signifies continuous life.

According to The Public Religion Research Institute’s “2020 Census of American Religion,” 70 percent of Americans identify as Christian.

Data from the Pew Research Center indicates that 55 percent of Canadians identified as Christians in 2018. Millions of Christians will be celebrating Christmas this year, and many of those celebrations will feature cherished traditions. Here are some popular Christian traditions during the holiday season.

Nativity scene

Advent calendars and wreaths The word “Advent” is derived from Latin and means “coming forward.”

Advent is the four-week period preceding the Christmas celebration.

Advent wreaths and calendars typically are part of Christmas in Christian households. Advent calendars are sold in stores or can be made as

carolers sing are traditional religious hymns. During Advent, carols will herald the coming of Jesus.

After Christmas, carols are even more joyous in nature.

The three masses

Christmas caroling

Midnight Mass is a special celebration that takes place in the late hours of the evening on Christmas Eve. It is the first liturgy of Christmas that begins at midnight. It originated in 430 AD under Pope Sixtus III in the Basilica of St. Mary Major. The popularity of Midnight Mass grew by the 12th century, when the celebration of three Masses on Christmas day was granted to all priests.

Midnight Mass is treated as a solemn High Mass, which involves singing and praying by the light of candles. A Mass at dawn is the second Christmas mass, followed

by Mass of the Day, which is the midmorning Mass of the Christmas celebration.

Caroling has a long history and was originally tied to winter solstice celebrations. Christians started singing carols to celebrate the birth of Jesus. Many of the songs

Christmas is steeped in tradition.

While the secular traditions are well known, Christians also embrace various religious traditions at this time of year.

Another popular religious tradition is setting up a nativity scene. A nativity scene places the focus on Jesus Christ. One tradition involves moving nativity figurines closer to the manger leading up to Christmas, and placing the infant Jesus in the manger on Christmas Day. Some churches and towns also put on living nativity scenes, in which adults and children dress up, and together with live animals, depict the manger scene.

DECEMBER 2023 | 61

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The district is dedicated to continue teaching, training, and instructing students to be mature, productive and well-rounded adults. To this end, the district will establish a well-developed educational program that will network our teachers, students, parents and community with the technology and resources necessary to compete successfully in the 21st century.

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Maynardbe

Welcome to

M

By James Jacob Seawel

aynard ain’t no Milan, Mumbai, or Miami, that’s for sure. More like Mayberry.

And, that’s alright by me.

As an adult I have embraced city living. In the Natural State I have called both Little Rock and Fayetteville home, but I realize those are small towns in comparison to the big dogs.

My Texas friends at Harding University relished in informing us Arkies that they had more people in H-Town than we had in our entire backwoods state. Well, at least we didn’t have to pack a lunch, pay a toll, and refill our tanks to slog across town, but I digress.

Beyond Arkansas I have been blessed to live in or near some the world’s great cities, including in the biggest city in the world. Tokyo never sleeps and somehow 35 million people manage to get along better than my kinfolk when they’re working cattle.

I lived near London for a year and never witnessed a dull moment. In Germany, I had a room within walking distance of a station where the Bullet Train would shoot me to Paris in a little over an hour. Not bad for an Ozarks foothills boy. Not good either, if you ask my brother who finds any town farther than Poplar Bluff, Missoura “too fir and snakey.”

As much as these cities and others I’ve lived in or traveled to have charmed me for their diversity, art scenes, architecture, museums, street markets, and endless restaurant options, my first love will always be my little map dot of origin.

When I was a boy, I fell in love with my hometown. Maynard, Arkansas was my Mayberry and our cast of characters was every bit as color66 |

ful—I’d argue more so-- than those on The Andy Griffith Show, which I watched with my grandparents on their old wood-grained Magnavox that weighed as much as their Oldsmobile.

Our little town has been blessed with a multitude of statesmen, any number of whom could be representative of Sheriff Andy Taylor. If former Maynard Mayor and retired Randolph County Sheriff Rob Samons were himself Sheriff Taylor, then retired Air Force Master Sergeant Bemiss Poore, a living legend in Maynard and still a coffee shop regular downtown, would be our very own real life Andy Griffith – complete with white hair, wise commentary, and a wry sense of humor.

While any number of the village elders might have been our Andy, there’s no competition for who our Aunt Bee would be. In fact, many of us refer to Ms. Beatrice Hearn as Aunt Bea, not only as a Southern nod of respect to a beloved aunt-like figure, but also as an homage to the matriarch of Mayberry, who reminds us of our very own grand dame of Maynard. Just like Opie’s great aunt, our Bea sports a beehive hairdo, dotes on children, and is fiercely devoted to her faith, her family, and her community.

She’s our very own Arkansas angel.

I’m not sure who would’ve played Opie, but several local boys come to mind. Caleb Taylor (“Calup” when we were kids) is not red-headed, but he’s got the last name for the job. And, if I know Caleb, he’d laugh, hitch his britches, and tell me he’d been called worse things than Opie gall-durn Taylor. Then,without missing a beat, he’d tell me to remind my readers to holler at him if they ever found themselves in need of some good old Pocahontas real estate.

I still frequent my hometown, so I won’t risk chapping the rear of the local constabulary. Randolph County Sheriff Kevin Bell is himself a Maynard man and word on the street is that he’s the finest lawman this side of Walt Longmire. Whether he joins the ranks of my great uncle Earl Chester of Ellum Store or Maynard’s Bill Rapert, only time and the voters will tell. But if I were a betting man, I’d bet on Bell.

Over the years more than one member of the force has drawn comparisons to the bubbly and bumbling deputy of Mayberry.

“Why that little lily-livered Barney-Fife lookin’ s.o.b.’s had it out for me since I dated his kid sister in high school,” a local over the road trucker lamented long ago about the officer who had just given him a speeding ticket.

More often than not, Barney Fife comparisons say more about the name-caller than the actual deputy. It is mighty hard to spread the good news out on the highways and byways of life when the long arm of the law has just requested your “drime lime.” I reckon a fellar could be called worse. After all, Deputy Fife himself recognized that sometimes folks have a “compelshun” to be “fuhsishuhs.” He once observed, “Life goes on; sess la vee, man.”

I dare not tempt any of my fellow Maynardians to anger, so I won’t name any names for who might best represent Goober or Gomer Pyle or the town drunk, Otis Campbell. But, I will take a little creative license and fictionalize one old soul who was as lovable, in his own way, as he was unforgettable.

berry There was a shade tree mechanic outside of town years back, who partook a trifle more than the Apostle Paul would have advised “for thy stomach’s sake and thine often infirmities.” Being a dry county at the time, the attitudes of much of the populace frowned upon drinking. Open drunkenness just wouldn’t do, but our Otis Campbell, like Mayberry’s, just couldn’t resist the bottle. Most of the town decided he was as harmless as a heel hound as long as he wasn’t behind the wheel.

let her know he was just joshin’, but once she’d gotten started she couldn’t stop.

But some folks won’t leave well enough alone.

Such ballyhooing was not uncommon in the Maynard of the 90s or today.

When local bear-poker Lorn Sullinger took to calling the man my “step-daddy” because our sickly old truck called Carl Jr. (named after the previous owner) stayed parked at the mechanic’s house more than at ours, he received a Susan Seawel finger in the face. “Now, listen here, Buster Brown. You’d better not get that started or I will flat skin you alive!” Lorn, who had no doubt desired just such a reaction from my spitfire mother, grinned real big and chuckled to

Another good old boy, who had been relieved of his license to drive by the law for his incessant behindthe-wheel boozing, beautifully beat the system with redneck ingenuity.

In a move straight from theGeorge Jones playbook, he took to piloting his riding lawn mower to town where he would loaf with the other men. Desperate times indeed call for desperate measures. My best high school buddies, who agreed on practically nothing besides Hooters

A local veteran teacher, who was used to holding her own with the type of teenage boy Lorn had never ceased being, Mom stayed after the old yellow dog like a duck on a junebug.

“And, I’ll flunk the last one of your grandchildren and tell ‘em you voted for Sheffield Nelson.” Lorn took it in stride and defused the situation with a big laugh and a hug.

(for the hot wings and root beer, of course), found themselves in rare accord with our Otis’s redneck resourcefulness.

Upon espying the hiccupping good ol’ boy riding to town on his roaring old rattletrap with a brown paper bag in tow, David Alphin proclaimed succinctly, “Life goal!”

Luke Kasinger nodded his head in solidarity and offered the rural high school boys’ version of amen, “damn straight!”

Another stand out in my memory is Ms. Freda Blevins, a gypsy ginger who ran a junk store downtown.

Such emporia were not uncommon in the small town South, but having a woman who would read your palm and tell your fortune was unusual if not mildly scandalous in the fundamentalist foothills of home.

My mother didn’t put much stock in “New Age stardust gobbledygook,” but she also didn’t see any harm in it.

Continued on page 68 DECEMBER 2023 | 67

“Go ahead and give the woman a dime if you want, but just know what she says isn’t the gospel,” Mom advised on one of our “junk-tiquing” trips to Freda’s.

The straight line in my left palm always gave Ms. Blevins pause. She would hum a minute in concentration, then affect a Hungarian accent and declare something like, “You haff many broken heartz in zee future. Many girlfriend, yes, but none will stay. Still you be o-kay.”

fault a gal for dreaming.

Since both of her sons are big enough old boys to open a can of whoop-ass on me, it has occurred to me I might ought to tread lightly

Late one night in the 90s, Margaret Ann encountered a UFO up close and personal on her family’s farm north of town. Our Lady of Hairspray, scared of nothing and no one, chased the flying disc in her little white car from Middlebrook through Old Richardson to the Current River Bottoms, where it spiraled over the river and she had to abandon her pursuit or teach her car to swim.

“Sometimes I dream I’m drivin’ down an old dirt road I enjoyed razzing her about it as a teenager but she wasn’t too saved not even listed Umm, how do you say, “Nailed to give me a good-natured cussin’ it!” in Hungarian? in response. She swore she was on on a map the level and had a small list of loA frequent presence in downtown cals who’d also witnessed our visMaynard was a man named Her- I pass a dad an’ son itors. man Grummell. He might have stood out just on account of being ‘”Listen, honey, I got a Baptist carryin’ a a German in a Scots-Irish backwadeacon and a deputy sheriff who ter. But, to the children of Mayalso seen it, but they get as jumpy fishin’ pole nard he was just another white as spit on a griddle if you mention man, except for one factor. He had it to ‘em. Heck fire, they’re scared But I always a hook arm. Other than Peter Pan’s folks will think they’re on that Captain Hook, Mr. Grummell was stuff, but I don’t give a good damn the first man any of us had ever what people in this town think. I wake up seen with a hook. He was a good know what I saw and it wasn’t a sport because he allowed all the every time I try bird or a plane or Superman!” kids in town to ogle, stare, and downright marvel at his mechanIt wasn’t too long afterward that to turn back ical appendage. crop circles appeared in nearby Knobel, and later in Peach Orchard.

I miss Mayberry Many is the manners-obsessed Maynard mother who mashed I remained a skeptic until a group their child’s ear lobe between her U of A friends and I beheld a sittin’ on the porch ofstrange finger and thumb while whispercelestial phenomenon on ing some version of, “Don’t stare, an Upper Buffalo gravel bar one drinkin’ ice cold spring midnight. Spirits might it ain’t polite!” But, despite maternal squawkin’, we just couldn’t have been involved for some, but cherry coke help our gawkin’.

I was as sober as a judge. My buddies and I got all college-educated A lively mother-daughter duo ran where everything is and stopped talking about our UFO an old folks home out of the Maysiting, but I sure wish Margaret nard Hotel, the crown jewel of our had lived long enough to rub black and white.” Ann humble downtown. The historic my nose in it. hotel might have been the centerpiece of our little wide spot in the road, but the colorful Caldwells, Bird and Winifred, were certainly the talk of the town. Folks still laugh when they quote parasol-toting and white gloves-up-to-her-elbows-Ms. Bird who would march up and down the streets of town and declare: “One of these days I’m gonna get out of this little hick town and amount to something.” Can’t 68 |

-I Miss Mayberry Rascal Flatts

Reba might have had to ask “Is There Life Out There?” But, Margaret Ann had no doubt.

when talking about their mother, my friend Ms. Margaret Ann (Odom) Soles, may she rest in peace, but Margaret Ann stories are always among my favorites and no Maynard nostalgia piece would be complete without at least one.

Some may deem places like Maynard as nothing but flyover country, but to me our little Arkansas crossroads town will always be the center of the known universe. It will always be home.

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DECEMBER 2023 | 69

A Family Affair Cathy and TK’s Journey from Fragrances to Fashion

O

By JA French

n Main Street in Walnut Ridge, where the scent of success mingles with the aroma of fine candles, stands Eleven Point Merchants, a boutique that captures the entrepreneurial spirit of Cathy Tedder and her niece Teddi K Holt, affectionately known as T.K. The duo embarked on their business venture in 2018 when Cathy acquired Scentations and Eleven Point Candles. Cathy, the CEO, brought years of experience in the wholesale industry, while T.K., the Director of Sales and Marketing, infused youth-

ful energy and a fresh perspective.

Their chemistry was undeniable, and in Nov. 2022, they took another leap, co-owning and opening Eleven Point Merchants at 102 East Main Street in Walnut Ridge.

T.K.’s dream of owning a store had roots in her childhood. “Since I was 10, it has been a dream of mine to own a store,” she shares, reflecting on her journey. After completing her degree in Marketing at ASU and managing a boutique during college, she joined Cathy in the wholesale business. The

move of the candle plant from Pocahontas, where it was founded in the 1980s, to Walnut Ridge sparked the idea of a downtown retail space.

In a stroke of serendipity, the perfect location became available, an historic garage with glass bay doors. The transformation into Eleven Point Merchants began, with an opening scheduled for Nov. 4, just in time for the holiday season. “Here we are a little over a year, and we are very happy with our decision and becoming more involved with the city of Walnut Ridge,” Cathy says.

Cathy’s and T.K.’s roles extend beyond business partners; they are family first. “Teddi K. is my family before an employee and partner. I treat her with respect and admiration. It is not something either of us expected to end up partners, but here we are, and it works for us,” Cathy reflects on their dynamic.

Their journey is marked by transparent communication and mutual learning. “Every day, we learn together from the ever-changing industry,” Cathy adds. T.K.’s honesty, humor and keen eye for trends complement Cathy’s experience, making their colContinued on page 72

The Eleven Point Merchants storefront, nestled in a historic garage on Main Street, exudes charm and character.

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In a touching display of family and entrepreneurial spirit, T.K. Holt (left) joins her aunt and business partner Cathy Tedder (right) at Eleven Point Merchants on Main Street. The duo, who previously collaborated at Cathy’s fragrance factory, embarked on a joint venture, turning an old dream into reality. Their tightknit bond adds a special touch to the business. To the right, a festive Christmas decor display showcases the holiday merchandise available at their store, inviting customers to experience the warmth and joy of the season.

DECEMBER 2023 | 71

laboration seamless.

Asked about memorable moments, Cathy chuckles, “Teddi K. introduced me to a new type of music. All who know her know who this is because if you walk into the shop, you will hear Harry Styles.” This shared love for music became a bonding element, evident in their attendance at the Love on Tour in Chicago and LA.

Balancing family ties with professional collaboration, Cathy emphasizes that it hasn’t been hard to separate.

“We both have too much invested in personal lives and business to let the petty things get in the way.”

Challenges have come, particularly in the unpredictable wholesale industry, but Cathy and T.K. routed them by trying new tradeshows and embracing the community as retailers. “We were smart on our purchases and embraced the customers with respect,” Cathy explains.

Their goals include launching a website for Eleven Point Merchants and maintaining a strong brick-and-mortar presence. “Our main goal is to be a destination brick and mortar and want to offer a similar shopping experience online,” Cathy reveals.

Reflecting on their evolving relationship, Cathy notes the give-and-take dynamic. “I laugh a whole lot more and realize that the small wins can lead up to the big wins.”

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For T.K., the decision to work with her aunt was born out of a genuine interest in industry. “When our professional relationship was established, we discussed opening the store. I knew it was something that we could work together to make successful.”

Working with family has shaped her professional growth, providing opportunities and connections she might not

have had otherwise. T.K. expresses pride in seeing customers wear items from their store and values Cathy’s 25 years of industry experience, which guides them in the right direction.

As a young entrepreneur, T.K. faced challenges related to her age but embraced them confidently. “I know what I am capable of and will do everything I can to help make the store a successful small business.”

Both Cathy and T.K. stress the importance of shared goals, communication and personal investment. “Having similar goals and great communication is key. Without either of those things, the store wouldn’t exist,” T.K. advises.

Among the scented candles and fashionable finds, Cathy and T.K. continue to build their empire, proving that family bonds can be the foundation for successful business ventures. As Eleven Point Merchants continues to grow, one can only anticipate the fragrance of success lingering in the air of Walnut Ridge.

‘Tis the season for joyous moments and festive finds! Customers plunge themselves in the holiday spirit while shopping for Christmas treasures at Eleven Point Merchants on Main Street.

DECEMBER 2023 | 73

PIGGOTT SCHOOL DISTRICT Success Is What We Do.

Piggott High School 533 E Main St. Piggott, AR 72454 870-598-2572 Elementary School 895 E Main St. Piggott, AR 72454 (870) 598-2546 Superintendent Freddie Bowen Board of Education JenniferRahn Rahn Jennifer Chris Roberts Roberts Chris Bradley BradleyDunlap Dunlap Rob Chandler Jim Threatt Jacob Jacob Richardson Richardson Piggott High School Principal: Paul Misti Seegraves Lovelace Elementary Principal: Brock Swann 74 |

Warm holiday touches for your home along with boutique clothing. Fragrant Eleven Point Candles that light up your home.

102 E. Main Street Walnut Ridge, AR

DECEMBER 2023 | 75

Our Favorite D

Moussaka is a classic dish served in Eastern European countries like Greece and Turkey. There are many variations, but moussaka often is made with eggplant and a creamy white sauce called béchamel. As a layered casserole similar to lasagna, it can be made in advance and then served to a crowd. It’s hearty, tasty and filling, and likely something that will appeal to most guests this Christmas. Hosts interested in preparing “Moussaka” can try the following recipe, courtesy of “Throw a Great Party” (iUniverse) by Mary Bartlett, Antonia Hoogewerf and Catherine Monnet.

Moussaka Serves 25

• 6 pounds eggplant • 1 cup olive oil, approximately • 1 pound onions, chopped • 2 tablespoons garlic, finely chopped • 6 pounds ground beef or lamb • 1 can tomatoes (29 ounces) • 1/2 bottle red wine • 1/2 bunch parsley, chopped • 1/2 bunch dried oregano • 2 tablespoons cinnamon • 2 teaspoons nutmeg • 1 teaspoon salt and pepper • Béchemel • 8 ounces butter • 1 cup flour • 2 quarts milk • Nutmeg • Salt and pepper Slice the eggplant into 1/2-inch round slices and sprinkle with salt.

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Let the eggplant rest about one hour to draw out the liquid. Pat dry, brush each slice with olive oil and arrange overlapping on baking sheets. Bake about 20 minutes or until soft. Set aside. This step may be done in advance.

browns, place it in a very large pot.

Add the cooked onion and garlic mixture, tomatoes, red wine, parsley, oregano, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the browned meat. Simmer slowly about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

If you prefer to grill the eggplant, brush both sides with olive oil or cooking oil and cook on a hot grill about two minutes per side.

Using one or two large skillets, heat about 1/4 inch of oil and sauté the onions and garlic until softened and set aside. Do this in batches, as necessary.

While the meat mixture simmers, prepare the béchemel sauce. Melt the butter in a large pot until it is bubbling. Whisk in the flour gradually and continue to stir for about 8 to 10 minutes over low heat without browning the mixture. Heat the milk in a large pan or in the microwave. Gradually add the hot milk to the flour mixture, stirring continuously. Add the nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and whisk a few minutes until thickened. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Using the same pan, add additional oil and sauté the beef or lamb until lightly browned. As each batch

Oil two 9 x 13-inch baking pans or one large roasting pan. Using half of the eggplant slices, distribute them on the bottom of each pan.

Top with meat mixture followed by remaining eggplant. Spread the sauce evenly over the eggplant. bake in a moderate oven (325 F) for about one hour. The béchemel should be lightly browned. Let the moussaka sit about 10 minutes before cutting into squares. It may be served at room temperature.

Serve with rosé or a medium-bodied white wine.

Dishes Entertaining is a big part of the holiday season. Calendars are packed this time of year with gatherings with friends, family and professional colleagues.

5. Mix in the dry ingredients in two additions, alternating with the sour cream. Make sure to mix in each addition until just combined, and be careful not to overmix the batter.

Entertaining requires keeping plenty of refreshments on hand to ensure guests maintain their holiday spirit.

Dessert is no stranger to the season, with office break rooms, dining tables and buffet stations brimming with sweet treats to tempt celebrants’ palates. Everyone should have a go-to dessert to bring along to a holiday party or to offer guests when hosting their own fêtes. Cookies are a standard due to their versatility and portability.

6. Using a 11/2-tablespoon cookie scoop, scoop the cookie dough onto the prepared baking sheets, making sure to leave a little room between each one.

Festive “Sour Cream Cookies” provide all of the holiday feels and can be customized in color to reflect celebrations of Christmas, Chanukah, Kwanzaa, or New Year’s. Bake up a batch, courtesy of “Live Well Bake Cookies” (Rock Point) by Danielle Rye.

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened • 11/2 cups powdered sugar • 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream or milk • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract • Gel food coloring (optional) 1. To make the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350 F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats and set aside.

Sour Cream Cookies 2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk toMakes 22 cookies

• 11/2 cups al l - p u r p o s e f l o u r, spooned and leveled • 1 teaspoon baking powder • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened • 3/4 cup granulated sugar • 1 large egg, at room temperature • 11/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract • 1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature • Vanilla Buttercream Frosting

gether the flour, baking powder and salt until well combined. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or in a large mixing bowl using a handheld mixer, beat the butter and granulated sugar together for 1 to 2 minutes, or until well combined.

4. Mix in the egg and vanilla extract until fully combined, making sure to stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

7. Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, or until the tops of the cookies are set and spring back when touched lightly. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes, then carefully transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

8. To make the vanilla buttercream frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or in a large mixing bowl using a handheld mixer, beat the butter for 1 to 2 minutes, or until smooth. Add the powdered sugar, 1/2 cup at a time, mixing in each addition until well combined.

9. Add the heavy whipping cream, vanilla extract, and gel food coloring (if using), and continue mixing until fully combined.

10. Once the cookies have cooled completely, spread the frosting on top of the cookies.

11. Store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature or in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

DECEMBER 2023 | 77

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4945 Hwy 90 W. | Pocahontas, AR

The office of Dr. Karla Baltz understands the importance of good oral hygiene and proper dental care. We are dedicated to making dental visits pleasant, and offer a wide range of dental services for patients of all ages.

151 Country Club Road | Pocahontas, AR (870) 892-1211

DECEMBER 2023 | 79

Delaplaine resident creates d

Above photo: Justin Gates of Delaplaine, full-time captain with the Pocahontas Fire Department, meticulously assembles his Christmas tree spectacle, a display featuring 6,298 lights that has become a holiday highlight for the community. Right Photo: On the opposite page, the Mega Tree in all its glory lights up Delaplaine, showcasing a holiday reel that captivates everyone..

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s dazzling Christmas spectacle D

By JA French

riving through the small town of Delaplaine during the holiday season has taken on a whole new meaning this year, thanks to the fascinating Christmas tree display crafted by local resident Justin Gates. The captivating showcase, featuring a Mega Tree adorned with 6,298 lights, has become a spotlight of festive cheer, drawing admiration from the community and beyond.

“I’ve always decorated for Christmas, but I have always wanted to build a Mega Tree for years! I love watching the tree at Silver Dollar City! So, for the enjoyment of the community and my family and friends, I decided this was the year for it.” says Gates, a 42-year-old full-time captain with the Pocahontas Fire Department and a farmer in Delaplaine.

Gates, whose love for holiday decorations traces back to his childhood, shares, “Yes, ever since I was little. I’ve always loved the holidays. My father and Nana were always big on decorating. That’s what started my love for decorating during the holidays, especially Christmas.”

The Mega Tree project, which began in July, involved meticulous planning and months of hard work.

Gates spent extensive hours researching products online before constructing the base of the tree using an antenna tower, repurposing it with the help of his tractor.

The tree itself boasts an impressive 4,800 pixels, with an additional 270 pixels for the star topper and 307 pixels for each of the singing trees. In total, the display showcases a dazzling 6,298 lights.

Installing the lights proved to be a challenging task, leading Gates to invest in a pixel-pushing machine due to the strain on his hands.

“The lights were the hardest to install, I ended up having to buy a pixel-pushing machine because of how bad my hands hurt installing them. I had to buy all the sequences and program it,” he explains.

Despite the initial setback caused by wind damage three weeks after installation, Gates, with the help of his mother, persevered through hours of re-installation to restore the spectacle. The Mega Tree now graces Delaplaine with a nightly light show, looping for five hours

each night, and extending to nearly three hours on Saturdays.

Gates expresses his intention to expand the display in the coming years, stating, “I plan on adding more displays each year as I can.

The tree is as big as I can get it.”

He encourages spectators to tune into 88.1FM to enjoy the synchronized music that accompanies the visual feast.

Reflecting on community reception, he shares, “It’s all been positive. Everyone that I’ve personally talked to or has sent a message through social media has loved it.” For Gates, the true joy lies in seeing the delight on the faces of the community: “I love seeing the lights, but my favorite thing has been seeing the enjoyment of everyone and sharing the holiday spirit with my family, friends, and the community.”

As Delaplaine enjoys the glow of the Mega Tree, Justin Gates has not only brought festive magic to the town but also a sense of togetherness and holiday spirit that unites neighbors and strangers alike.

DECEMBER 2023 | 81

Daytime View: Justin Gates’ Mega Tree stands tall in his yard in Delaplaine during daylight hours, revealing the intricate mechanics and construction that bring the festive display to life. Nighttime Glow: The same Mega Tree, captured in all its festive glory, illuminates the night in Delaplaine. The 6,298 lights create an amazing spectacle.

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We support American manufacturing jobs! So that’s our baseline on defining American-made merchandise, because our goal is to keep good jobs in the USA.

Visit one of our Arkansas Locations: 1100 Pace Road | Pocahontas, AR 6651 Hwy. 49 N. | Brookland, AR 429 US Highway 64 E. | Conway, AR DECEMBER 2023 | 83

ARkansas art

Beautox Art with Beau Jones

Photos from Facebook 84 |

DECEMBER 2023 | 85

Travelin’ Arkansans

I

Spending time Basque

should have known. From the incessant alarms followed by intrusive pat downs at every single airport, I should have known this would be no easy, ordinary trip.

I should have also known there is much beauty to be found by slowing down. I was ignorant of the legacy of food, song, dance, and art celebrated by people where we were going. That would come, but right now I was figuring out how to deal with the moment. My husband had just tossed me a rather smug look back over his shoulder that first time, as he progressed through security unmolested because his knees are his natural ones, shoes still on because he’s over 75. He barely raised his eyebrows when the female officer asked if I preferred a man or a woman to do the rather personal pat down. I stole a quick glance at the male officer, and then carefully lifted my arm with the sixteen screws holding shoulder and humerus together, and quickly said to her, “You do it, please.”

Oh, yes. I should have known. This would not be a typical trip, this journey to seven territories some in Spain, some in France, this ancient place of mystery in its origins and its passion for life over death. But I could never have imagined the range or nature of challenges we would confront, the depth of discoveries that would remind us to look more closely at the people with whom we share a world (or a trip!), and the serendipitous experiences that would keep us always in awe of our shared humanity.

We love to travel— close to home and to distant shores. Ken typically chooses the places we visit in the United States—he’s a “road trip” kind of guy—while I select the international destinations. But this time, following up on a “you have to see this place!” recommendation 86 |

By Jan Ziegler

from a friend, Terra, we were headed for a region where she had once lived, a place about which we knew very little—the Basque Country.

Travel writer Rick Steves describes this as a “simply beautiful” place, a “land where Spain and France meet the Atlantic—filled with people who have their own culture and language, but not their own country.” Wait! Did Rick Steves say “their own language”? Did he use the term “linguistically unique?” Is “Basque” a language? Oh, he goes on to write that most speak also Spanish or French. That should be O.K., I thought. My Spanish fluency is minimal, but maybe would be enough. As for French, once upon a time I had studied French—somewhat. Was that really over fifty years ago? Could I still… Never mind. I would learn some basic Basque before we left for our trip. We could manage, I thought, reading on in Steves’ book, that “four of the seven territories lie within Spain, three within France, framed in part by the soaring Pyrenees Mountains.” This was sounding pretty good.

A most unwelcome message We were barely checked into our first hotel in Barcelona’s Casco Viejo (Old Town) district when I received on my phone this alarming text from my credit card company: “Credit Card Alert: We declined a $4168.54 purchase at El Corte Ingles Portal De to protect your Credit Card ending in ….. We need additional information to confirm whether you attempted this purchase. Please call the number on the back of your card….” What? My credit card? That can’t be. I scrambled for my purse and rummaged for my card so I could phone that number, but… It. Wasn’t. There.

Ken just shook his head in disbelief. Gone? Lost?? Stolen??? All we knew for certain was that someone

was having a shopping spree at El Corte Ingles on my dime to the tune of over $4,000! We spent half that first night in Spain dealing with the reality that somehow, someone had my credit card and the company had no choice but to cancel it. Not to worry—the lady on the phone promised to Fed Ex a new one within two days to my home—in Arkansas???—and I could activate it as soon as I got back home. In seventeen days??? It will be O.K., we told each other. We had arrived safely. No one fell and broke anything. We had a little cash and we still had Ken’s credit card (with that number on the back to call in case…) This was just a tiny blip on the radar screen, we told ourselves.

It is OK. God is in his Heaven. Yes. Thank you, Lord.

He was no doubt holding me back the next afternoon, while Ken and I were viewing the incredible Barcelona from the top of an open-air bus. There at the intersection just below us stood this enormous modern building advertising its “Shoes, Sportswear and Homeware” with very visible signage: El Corte Ingles.

Adventures with “Kuga” Given the geographic range of our destination, I had reluctantly acquiesced to Ken’s insistence we could properly visit the entirety of the Basque Country only if we rented a car. He overcame my reluctance with a reminder of how well he had done when we rented a car on at least two previous trips, one to Germany and one to southern Africa where, he quipped, “They drive on the wrong side of the road.” I did manage to secure from him an agreement that we would pick up the rental car only when we were departing from the airport in the bustling city of Barcelona, Spain,

Barcelona’s Casco Viejo (old town)

Art at the Guggenheim

where we planned to spend a couple of days before heading out to the much more rural Basque Country.

How hard could it be to drive in the countryside?

I’ll never forget the happy look on Ken’s face when he turned from the airport’s Avis counter, holding up the key to our car for the next two weeks. A Ford “Kuga,” he said. “It’s at A-63. We just go downstairs and pick it up.”

What?” I asked him, confused. This was definitely not what I had expected.

“It’s somewhere downstairs that way,” he said. “So I guess we just go find it.” I vaguely remembered that at earlier airport rentals, we waited at a pick-up point and a car rental attendant simply brought the car to us, demonstrated how everything worked, and then handed over the key. Not to worry, Ken said. He had made sure the GPS lady spoke

English.

Things went rather well, actually, for a good long while, in spite of a surprisingly high level of traffic, until the first time we had to fill up. We consulted each other about which grade of fuel we thought he should use while other cars by now were lining up behind us. He fumbled for a while with the nozzle and gas tank cover, and finally looked inside the car, asking if I saw any button to unlock the gas tank. I didn’t. And I refrained from suggesting he might ask the English-speaking GPS lady.

Those who do not know my engineer husband cannot possibly appreciate how hard it was for him to go inside, wait his turn, then haltingly and with hand signals, ask the station attendant to come help him find the lock to the fuel cap.

Nothing about the car experience was easy: Not the fill-ups; not the ubiquitous round-abouts, one right after another; not the 30 (yep, 30!)

toll road booths, all of which must have held 10 or more possible lanes, each of them with different signage.

Also not easy was getting used to the GPS lady’s frequent failure to give us the information in time for Ken to take the proper round-about exit.

The beauty of ‘slowing down’ Still, in the scheme things…We did not choose this visit to the Basque because it sounded easy or familiar. For that we could have stayed home. Didn’t we always say that we loved travel in part because of the adventure? That we loved to travel “unscripted” (translation: no firm itinerary and no hotel reservations beyond the first night)? That we loved the “discovery” possibly awaiting us beyond the next toll gate, the surprise we would find just past the next roundabout? Didn’t we love the unique and the spontaneous fun that sometimes evoked from one of our grown kids or grandDECEMBER 2023 | 87

kids the admonition in the form of a question: “Mom, don’t you think ya’ll are getting a little ….well, you know, that ya’ll should slow down a little bit? We worry about you…”

Holly’s right of course about the importance of slowing down. And slow down we did, once we traveled from one locale to another, from one territory to another. We only selected lodging whose web sites indicated free parking, and when “Kuga” was finally squeezed into that often nearly impossible parking spot, we did not touch her again for the duration of our time in that place. Exploring on foot the cities, markets, streets and districts yielded for us chance encounters— the kind that offer up the kind of fun experiences money cannot buy.

We still remember that warm sunny afternoon in the beautiful Basque Autonomous Community-- San Sebastian, Spain. We were ready for a break and something cool to drink when we finally spotted one empty table in the shade of a crowded sidewalk café. Well, it was almost empty, except for a single half-filled wine glass. I grabbed a chair at the table while Ken headed inside to order our drinks. But the café owner must have spotted us. He met Ken at the door, gesturing at me and the table, and shaking his head in that universal language we all understand. I stood to leave, but suddenly this lady burst out of the café and motioned for us to come to her table. She and I bumbled and stumbled over each other linguistically for a bit, but the upshot was that she wanted us to share her table where she was waiting for two friends to join her. We took her up on the offer, assuming we would simply leave when the friends arrived. But as the friends approached, the woman we now knew as “Elsa” quickly scrounged up additional chairs and the five of us enjoyed the wine and the conversation—mostly English with a dash of Spanish and Basque— for an hour or so. We learned more about Elsa, a restauranteur, about Maria, a teacher, and about Patricia, a young woman whose job is to 88 |

work with the local government to ensure that all official documents— past and current—are printed in the Basque language (Euskara). Her job is needed, she explained, because authorities had in the past banned Basque language and culture. How and why would anyone try to ban a language? Our country would never do that. Well, hardly ever…

We would learn that Basque is one of the world’s most unique languages, apparently unrelated to any other spoken in Europe, and, it is believed, in the world--information that soothed my ego only slightly when we got up to leave them and my recall of Basque vocabulary (Eskerrik Asko? No-- that’s “Thank you”; Kaixo? No that’s “Hello”; ”Agur”? Yes!! That’s “Goodbye!”) failed me so spectacularly.

Anticipation vs. reality Taking life slowly, just as Holly had suggested, yielded unforgettable experiences again and again during those warm days and evenings in and near the Basque country. We had spent the day in Barcelona, Spain’s major Mediterranean port, marveling at a statue of Christopher Columbus in the harbor of this capital city of Spain’s autonomous community of Catalonia. We mingled with the throngs to admire Barcelona’s famous cathedral, Sagrada Familia, Antoni Gaudi’s masterpiece on which he had labored some 43 years. We browsed and “noshed” on the endless offerings of fruits, nuts, and veggies, passing up the pig knuckles and squid at the city’s famous Mercat de la Boqueria, a market that dates to the 1200s.

We strolled along Las Ramblas, the city’s iconic tree-lined promenade paved in a design that mimicked the waterway the Ramblas once was before it became home to countless shops, cafes, street traders and performers it now is. We stumbled upon a kiosk advertising that evening’s Flamenco performance. Ken wasn’t sold on the idea at first. I can’t be certain whether it

was the reasonably priced tickets, the event’s location just around the corner from where we were, my excitement about seeing a flamenco performance IN SPAIN—can you believe it?—or the tiny showbill disclaimer which seemed to indicate the performance was recommended for mature audiences, that finally tipped him over. Whatever, the performance in a small, intimate theatre venue was incredibly beautiful and everything I had imagined from my limited exposure to the art form designed, or so experts say, to express “honest raw emotion” through “movement, music, rhythm, song, sounds, chants, and improvisation.”

I’m guessing the show was not exactly what my husband had imagined, though, and I’m basing that on the way he looked at me each time someone came in with an obviously not “mature” child of about eight or nine or even twelve or thirteen. Another clue cinched it when, during what we usually call intermission, he opened his eyes, leaned over, and whispered, “Can we leave now?”

Art at the Guggenhim Bilbao-We’ve shared a few laughs about that evening since, and about the occasional disconnect between the anticipation and the reality of an experience. It is precisely in that disconnect—that space between the expectation and the actual—where travel holds immense potential to touch us, maybe even to transform us in the process. We experienced something similar with our visit to Bilbao, a city of green hillsides along the Nervion River, a city which feels much smaller than its 350,000 inhabitants. Bilbao is home to the world-renowned Guggenheim Bilbao, a museum described as a structure with not a single flat surface other than the floor, a place where not a single façade is the same as another. A creation of Canadian American architect Frank Gehry, the Guggenheim Bilboa consists of thousands of thin sheets of titanium and massive pieces of limestone; it feels both at home and at odds with its surroundings. The

Ken and Jan pose beside a statue of Ernest Hemingway

museum, designed in part with the aid of software that was ahead of its time, appropriately houses modern and contemporary art. Yet the award-winning Guggenheim Museum Bilbao also is grounded in the past, overlooking as it does in an old previously declining industrial site in the estuary. The Guggenheim Bilbao is now an acclaimed cultural center whose titanium tiles change in color or tone in sync with the weather and natural lighting. Evocative of fish scales—or are they sails on a ship?—the structure has many faces; some would argue the view from above may be the most incredible of all.

--Yayoi Kusama: 1945 to Now There. How to say this now that I’ve tried so mightily, if inadequately, to explain the magnificence of Guggenheim Bilbao? Maybe letting travel writer Rick Steves say it would be best, because, honestly, his judgment in this case reflects the reality for Ken and me: “Even if you’re not turned on by contemporary art, the Guggenheim is a must-see experience. Its 20 galleries, on three floors, are full of surprises, and it’s well worth the entry

fee just to appreciate the museum’s structural design, which is a masterpiece in itself.” To say we were “not turned on” by the exhibit then showing would be a bit of an understatement for both of us. But given the stature and acclaim of the Japanese artist whose life’s work was on display, we could hardly refuse to experience whatever “Yayoi Kusama: 1945 to Now” had to offer. We might have been better prepared had we previously learned this artist, born in 1929, is a “self-described ‘obsessional artist,’ known for her extensive use of polka dots and for her infinity installations…” Having been teens in the “Make Love—Not War” era of the 60s should have made understanding her work easier for us.

“Organized chronologically and thematically, the show addresses six key themes that recur throughout the artist’s life: Infinity, Accumulation, Radical Connectivity, Biocosmic, Death, and Force of Life. These interrelated themes have recurred and evolved within the obsessive universe of Kusama, who has been valiantly agitating the art scene and society for decades to promote healing of all mankind.”

When, a few hours later, Ken and I were de-briefing with a coffee and snack to see if nourishment would clear things up for us, I had to wonder: Did all or most, or even an enlightened few of the other visitors to the Yayoi Kusama exhibit understand her art? Did the museum’s masses of visitors comprehend the museum website’s description of Kusama’s art we had tried but largely failed to grasp:

We admit it. As for our college days in those Fine Arts survey courses—too many years—too much life—has intervened. Our small rural community may have given us many entertaining and often provocative theatre and musical productions. But art with a capital “A”? Not so much. But wait…hadn’t Ken and I enjoyed and snapped pictures of each other underneath the gigantic

But even if her creation exceeded my capacity to give her art the accolade it deserves, I can and do acknowledge and appreciate her efforts to “promote healing of all mankind.” Lord knows we need it.

--Maman

DECEMBER 2023 | 89

sculpture outside the museum, near the footbridge, where this spectacularly large spider sheltered her sack of eggs. That was also art, wasn’t it?

It even had a name, Maman. Sculpted by French artist Louise Bourgeois, the nine-meter sculpture was reportedly created as a tribute to her mother. Interesting. I’m not surprised, though, to learn the museum’s literature suggests this spider is “highly contradictory” as an “emblem of maternity,” because spiders convey the idea of “both protector and predator—the silk of a spider is used both to construct cocoons and to bind prey—and embody both strength and fragility.” Okay. I get it. As I stand within the enclosure of those tall, powerfully designed legs and gaze up at those eggs in a protective sack, I think maybe I understand this work of art. Sort of.

--Puppy Realizing how much remained to be seen at the Guggenheim Bilbao, returning there the second day seemed the right thing to do. We wanted to examine more closely an evocative display of enslaved women on the wharf, as if just offloaded from a slaving vessel. We wanted to climb the Guggenheim’s grand staircase and to view the museum from atop a nearby bridge; and we felt compelled to visit something important that awaited us on the other side of the museum: we wanted to see another of the museum’s outdoor pieces of art, the crowd-pleasing Puppy, a 43-foot flower sculpture by American artist Jeff Koons. The artist is described in museum sources as a man desiring to “communicate with the masses” (that sounded like us!), someone intent on testing boundaries “between popular and elite culture.” Koons is quoted as saying he designed Puppy in order to instill “optimism, confidence and security.” Standing guard is something the beautiful 16-ton Puppy, with his naturally growing coat of some 37,000 live plants and flowers, has done well for about a quarter century, from the time of the museum’s inauguration. Koons also described Puppy as “a very spiritual piece.”

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“Spiritual” probably would not be the word I would have chosen to describe Puppy. All I know for sure is this: both Puppy and Maman, creatures who live on the perimeter of one of the most amazing structures we’ve ever seen, brought us unanticipated joy and a sense of discovery and wonder, making us welcome guests, immersed in a world of incredible art. The reality of these two pieces exceeded our expectations, giving positive impact to the entirety of our experience at the Guggenheim Bilbao.

A “Bilboat” trip to nowhere The city itself apparently was not yet finished with us, we soon came to understand. There was more we needed to learn, apparently. Maybe we needed a reminder that when things go wrong, that may be precisely when doors of opportunity open.

On our two lengthy treks to the Guggenheim, we had seen enough of the estuary to know there were interesting things to see further downstream from the farthest point we had been; the boat trip tours departing from near Bilbao’s Casco Viejo pier were always people-hanging-off-theside-full. We had made two futile attempts to purchase tickets for the 60-minute down-river and 60 minute return cruise, but had not managed to get on board. On our final day there, we finally made it!

We were on the boat when it departed for its last trip of the day, leaving the pier at 6:15 p.m. When that last boat pulled away from the dock and we noticed we were two of only six people on board—one other couple and a mother-child pair—more sensible people might have wondered…But, hey! We had our pick of seats and the cool air refreshed after that climb up the Guggenheim’s “Grand Staircase.”

Besides, we glimpsed the beginning of a beautiful sunset when the boat rounded a bend in the river, and then a totally new perspective of the Guggenheim—this time from down river—even the brightly colored houses lining the

river seemed to compete for our attention. That changed when we realized we had been on this river trip for well over an hour already.

It was getting dark.

Shouldn’t our driver be turning this vessel around? One hour down and one hour back? Still that boat just kept on going…past old shipyards, construction sites, a huge steel salvage yard, past places no tourists would want to visit, and the river kept getting wider. Where was he taking us? Ken wondered aloud if we were headed for the sea. Some two hours after we had joined this excursion, the “Bilboat” headed toward a dock. The driver shouted something, and the other couple began questioning the driver.

We couldn’t understand any of it, but we understood the gestures.

Get off! Here! Our questions to him yielded nothing better. In response to our feeble attempts and gestures to tell him we wanted to go back the other way, back to where we boarded the boat, he was unwavering, just shaking his head, muttering “No es possible!” again and again as he proceeded to secure the now empty boat.

The mother-child pair had simply walked away, but the other couple on the dock, looked every bit as perplexed as we felt, the man frantically searching for something on his phone.

Ken and I made our way to them, and the woman turned to us. She determined that we spoke English, then told us they also had thought the boat would return us to the dock in Bilbao and that they had to get to the Bilbao Metro to return to their hotel. I nodded and gestured it was the same for us. “What will you do now?” I asked them. The man held up his phone and told us he had found two options: a train or a Metro back to Bilbao, “but we have to hurry. They don’t run much longer,” he added. “Both of them are up there, a long walk,” he said gesturing up the steep hill from the river.

His wife then as k ed u s t h e s a m e q u es t i o n : “Wh at wi l l y o u d o ? ”

“Whatever you do.” Ken and I said in unison. “If that’s O.K.” She nodded. Her husband, already scrambling up the hill, called back to us, “The Metro?” We nodded. Almudena Gomez Ozuna, as we would soon come to know her, smiled and said, “Of course.” She linked one arm in mine and we proceeded to climb a wide path to street level, and continued on up from there. Juan, as we came to know him, kept monitoring the time and the distance to the Metro looking back down at us.

Almudena seemed to decide at some point Ken and I could manage the hill, even expressing surprise that we could do so. I kept it to myself that I, too, was not just surprised but thrilled that our knees were exceeding expectations that late September evening. What I also did not say was that there was no way we were going to not keep up with our ticket back to civilization; no way we would get separated from tech-savvy Juan. The couple, we would learn on the Metro ride back to our station, lived in the south of Spain, not far from Morocco, where a massive earthquake a few weeks earlier had killed more than 2,000, leaving thousands more injured along with staggering devastation in North Africa. When Almudena talked about the destruction and about efforts to help with recovery efforts there, I was touched by her concern for the region, but not the least bit surprised.

On the hour-long walk from our Metro station back to our hotel, Ken and I marveled and tried to understand what had happened that night. Why did we think the boat ride would be a two-hour round trip from our point of departure instead of the two-hour one-way trip to… wherever we were? Apparently Almudena and Juan had thought this, too. And apparently, all four of us were wrong. But what did it matter?

We wouldn’t have missed for the world the gift of kindness we had been given by Almudena and Juan, a compassionate couple willing to slow down a bit for us, a kind couple we really hope will someday take us up on a standing invitation to visit us in Pocahontas.

“Basque-ing” in the moments The Basque Country and surrounding region held for us countless “moments,” those otherwise minor happenings bringing sudden flashes of lucid understanding or awareness, those unscripted experiencesthat are seemingly too special to be forgotten. Did Ken really forget to pay for that scrumptious ice cream we enjoyed in Andorra la Vella, forcing a second visit to the shop the following day? That place our hotel receptionist had correctly recommended as the best ice cream in the city? Maybe even in the whole country of Andorra? That place located more than a mile uphill from our lodging? Both ways? That place the clerk, incredulous as she prepared our order, couldn’t stop laughing at us?

Also unforgettable is that morning at our mile-long breakfast buffet in San Sebastian when Ken came back to our table with his plate filled to the brim and whispered to me, “Don’t stare, but look at that woman over there.” What woman over there?

“There she is—see her? She helped me with my toast.” Helped him with his toast? I sneak a quick glimpse, but don’t see her. “You know, they have one of those toasters where you lay your piece of bread on the rack, and it’s like a conveyor belt moving the toast…” I know what kind of toaster they have. I used it myself. Without any help. What kind of help did he need? “I guess my toast wasn’t placed on there at the right angle, and she had to straighten it for me.” He’s got my attention now.

“She just reached over and gave it a little …nudge and sort of smiled and said something I could not understand.” He mimics her positioning of the piece of toast on his plate, demonstrating the “nudge” with his fingers in the air. I glance over my shoulder in the direction he keeps looking. “Don’t look now!” I focus all my attention on my yoghurt and blueberries, and when they are gone, I mutter something about needing more hot tea. It is located in the corner area where he did not want me to look. I sneak a look, of course, but can’t really see her face, as she is bent over her food and I only see the top of her head. She appears younger than I am. Feeling silly, I finish breakfast as we plan out our day in a new place, a couple of hours drive f r o m h e r e . B u t I get a quick glimpse of mystery woman when she gives K e n a q uick little wave and little smile as she and her male companion pass our table on their way out.

It is now two days later, and we are in the Basque region called “Biarritz,” enjoying pizza at a busy, tourist-filled plaza, when I catch a glimpse of this man and woman; she is looking our way. Oh, no. Surely not. Ken has his back to her, but she is definitely looking our way. This time I raise my hand to give her a little wave. She smiles, and waves back. Ken sees me and turns to look. But it is too late. She is gone. The moment has passed.

Too bad. Thank Goodness.

Another moment that will stay with us occurred when we had a problem with a parking meter In Bayonne. In spite of our best efforts, we could not get the only available parking meter to accept our card. An older lady and a young man who had just parked nearby came over, introduced themselves and

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asked if we needed help, and proceeded to try to figure out the problem. When she was also unable to get the meter to accept our card, she got out her card, and said she would just take care of it for us. We assured her we would pay her back, but as luck would have it, the meter in question was simply not in working order, rejecting her credit card as well as ours. Over our protest, she then sent her grandson to find an open meter in working condition on a nearby street, while the three of us just chatted, using her limited English and my limited French.

A familiar face—a familiar voice—Ernest Hemingway in Pamplona More than once our time in the car gave us time to debrief or reflect on something like the unsolicited kindness of the woman and her grandson, and to wonder, “What if….? Would we have…?” On other occasions, our Kuga was almost a time-travel chamber, like on the day, headed to Pamplona, we crossed a river and suddenly I saw the sign: Ebro.

Ebro!!! “Ken,” I’m sure I shouted, “We just crossed the Ebro!” The what?? “The Ebro,” I said again, in a more reverent tone, shades of American Literature classes sweeping over me. “Earnest Hemingway.

The Ebro is in his short story, ‘Hills Like White Elephants.’” I knew Pamplona, home of the 700-yeardold annual “Festival of San Fermin” and its legendary “Running of the Bulls” event figured prominently in Hemingway’s life. I knew the city served as the setting in his masterpiece novel, The Sun Also Rises.

But I felt a special bond to that short story, required reading in my American Literature classes. Later it had evoked great discussions with my own students. “What’s it about?”

Ken wanted to know. “It’s about a man and a young woman who are discussing….” I stopped there, not wanting to spoil it for him. I remembered how this story typified the direct, short, unadorned writing style of this Nobel Prize in Literature winner, a man whose background as a reporter seemed to have shaped 92 |

his style in fiction writing. He had once written this: “Prose is architecture, not interior decoration, and the Baroque is over.” Remembering that my husband the engineer had told me he sometimes regretted that literature had been given low priority in his degree plan at the University of Missouri at Rolla, my inner teacher took control. A quick online search yielded the complete text of the really, really short story. With the Ebro in the rearview mirror, I began to read…

The hills across the valley of the Ebro were long and white. On this side there was no shade and no trees and the station was between two lines of rails in the sun. Close against the side of the station there was the warm shadow of the building and a curtain, made of strings of bamboo beads, hung across the open door into the bar, to keep out flies. The American and the girl with him sat at a table in the shade, outside the building….

When I had finished reading the story, we talked about whether Ken thought the girl—”Jig”—was her name, we later learn, had decided to have the abortion as the man wanted her to do. We also wondered whether this famous 1927 short story of Hemingway’s was included on anyone’s list of his banned works.

A quick search showed it was. Is. Not surprising, we decided, given that the list of banned Hemingway works includes, along with many of his other literary masterpieces, his Pulitzer Prize-winning A Farewell to Arms, written in large part while he lived with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer in our neighboring town of Piggott.

As we enter Pamplona, the Basque city where the famous American writer first arrived 100 years ago this year, we see there can be no question that America’s larger than life writer left part of himself in this Basque city. This was the place to which he returned nine times between 1924 and 1959, a place many say he “loved more than the city loved him,” the city that gave him

inspiration for his award-winning The Sun Also Rises. Critics note this Hemingway novel gives focus to Gertrude Stein’s term, “the Lost Generation,” a reference to the cynicism and disillusionment of young writers and artists who had come of age during the years of death and carnage in World War. Hemingway, who was wounded while serving as an ambulance driver in Italy, would be in this number who found war was not what he expected. This is a city with tours to trace his footsteps and signage to point out places he stayed. The famous author gazes at tourists like us from statues, posters, from carvings in shops and bars.

Pamplona’s regard for Hemingway seems more of a celebration, if not an admiration, of the impact of the man whose writing lives on, revived each July in the daring of the men and women who come to celebrate the Feast of San Fermin and to run defiantly with the bulls. We immediately enlist a fellow tourist to take our photograph with the largerthan-life Hemingway bust in front of the Bull Ring.

We’re pretty sure Hemingway would have ho-hummed at the lowkey peacefulness of the San Fermin Txikito (Little San Fermin) festival, the local event Ken and I happened upon. This event in late September is without bulls and without the throngs of tourists, without the extreme party atmosphere of Hemingway’s day. We could never have anticipated being able actually become a part of a parade for everyone. We walked along with local community “bands” of musical enthusiasts, with moms and dads with baby strollers and little tykes on bikes, with groups of singing troubadours, and with the incredibly stunning 14-foot-tall live “mannequins” dancing and swirling down the street. What could be better?

I couldn’t help but wonder what our literary giant would have thought of this totally tame parade as it wound its way joyously, but calmly, through the city. I wondered how our parade contrasted to that other more famous annual event

The Zieglers at Ordino Overlook

called the “encierro,” or running of the bulls some two months earlier.

In that annual event, six frenzied bulls would have raced furiously down the narrow streets toward the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona, occasionally trampling or goring any of the brave souls unlucky enough to lose balance while they ran in front of the charging animals— magnificent bulls who, along with matadors, would soon take center stage in the bullring. Early critics of Hemingway’s 1926 masterpiece, The Sun Also Rises, condemning its “sexual content” and its “treatment of war,” were from Hitler’s Germany and Mussolini’s Italy. I wondered what the internationally acclaimed author would think about those who today have banned many of his writings. We may have a clue. Hemingway reportedly said this about those early critics who opposed the sport—or the “art” as he called it—of bullfighting: “Anything capable of arousing passion in its favor will surely raise as much passion against it.”

Guernika Peace Museum We had no plans to engage again with thoughts of censorship, but the topic looms large at the Guernika Peace Museum. Guernica is actually the place where, on April 26, 1937, German bombs fell on an unprepared Basque city, flattening seventy percent of its structures and killing one-third of its residents.

Not only was this “cultural capital” of the Basque people unprepared for the raid, the city was also without importance as a military target.

Historians point to evidence that the unprovoked, unanticipated threehour blitzkrieg occurring on a market day when the town was filled with farmers and others selling their products served Spanish dictator Francisco Franco well: he garnered favor with Hitler by basically inviting the German ruler opportunity to “try out” the Luftwaffe’s new “saturation-bombing” strategy, while simultaneously squelching the stubborn Basque resistance to Franco’s forces.

Before our visit to the city, we had known its name largely in connection with Pable Picasso’s famous Guernica painting known for its anti-war message. The museum helped us to better realize the painting’s context. Once news broke of the bombing and the near-decimation of Guernika, Picasso reportedly abandoned work on another project he had begun, devoting himself to a new work intended to remind viewers of the tragedy of Guernika. He would complete in about three weeks the Cubist masterpiece mural we know so well--the large black and white and grey oil mural described by the Guernica Peace Museum as “a 20th Century icon” which “transcends the immediate horror inspired by the press photos and turns it into an eternal denunciation.”

The museum, in keeping with its name, holds the attention of visitors like us to a central focus; it asks unflinchingly that we “give a vote of DECEMBER 2023 | 93

confidence for peace and peaceful co-existence.” The Guernica Peace Museum showcases those who in recent history stood against violence, even to their own demise, including Mahatma Ghandi, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Swedish Prime Minister Olaf Palme, and a young man known to the world as Tiananmen Tank Man, believed to have been either imprisoned or executed.

When I looked at the “Tools for Peace” exhibit and read the reminder that “The tools of peace dwell, in some way, inside ourselves, I couldn’t help thinking that a place like the Guernica Peace Museum would be a great academy for world leaders. Among those tools of peace, according to the museum, are these elements: “Firm dialogue.

Respect for human rights. Looking to the future. Honouring our fellow human beings. Putting ourselves in the other party’s position. Listening to different opinions. Admitting our mistakes. Searching for common ground. Gearing the situation towards reconciliation…”

We have thought often about those words, especially “reconciliation,” since a mere ten days after we looked at the museum’s exhibits on reconciliation, we heard the news of October 7. The tragic events set in motion on that recent day serve to remind us of aspects of the elusive pursuit of peace we all share. We have remembered again and again since the events of that day the museum’s definition of reconciliation: “the overcoming of past enmity and the creation of a new common framework for future friendship.

It is a search for a solution to the problems that started the conflict.

Transforming relations of enmity and distrust into respect and harmony.”

Xabi in San Sebastian Our “unscripted” travel structure that seemed to worry our adult children proved again and again to hold unanticipated reward as we adjusted our “loose” travel plan whenever it made sense for to us to do so. We 94 |

did try to send frequent updates on our whereabouts to the home folks.

We were enjoying a glass of local wine, people-watching from our table at Constitution Plaza in San Sebastian, where we were to meet Xabi (pronounced Shah-be), our Basque contact, when Ken’s phone rang. Xabi could not make it that evening due to an unexpected work commitment, and wondered if we would be available the following evening. That would mean spending another night there, but the decision was an easy one. Late September is not “high season”; extending our stay or getting a new room should not be a problem. More importantly, San Sebastian is by many accounts one of the most beautiful cities in the Basque; some have even described it as being a smaller version of Paris, if Paris were located on a beach. Who wouldn’t want to spend another day in this coastal city on the Bay of Biscay in this picture-perfect weather? Besides, Xabi is a San Sebastian teacher who, through our mutual American friend, Terra, had been instrumental in encouraging us to visit the Basque County, and we definitely did not want to miss him. We could and did “force” ourselves to stroll again down the cobblestone streets in San Sebastian’s Parte Vieja (Old Town), listening to street musicians, enjoying their famed cheesecake, checking out more of the city’s incredible architecture, including its cathedrals, like the Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro, or its largest church, the Catedral del Buen Pastor, the one with a 75-meter tower. This also gave us time for a long walk along the city’s waterfront promenade.

But we resisted the urge to try one of the city’s famous pintxo (pinchoh) bars; for that we held off, waiting for Xabi.

The following evening, once more at a table in the same plaza, Ken and I placed bets on whether he would be a jeans and backpack professor kind of guy, or the more sophisticated, erudite, briefcase carrying-type.

Xabi was a blend of both, and he was well worth the wait. Eager to

share with us aspects of the Basque culture we might not otherwise have experienced, he also had questions of us as we shared a drink. His questions ranged from the American education system to housing to average salaries to health care to American politics, the topic with which he was most familiar.

We could have talked on and on, but he was eager to teach us about pintxos, also known as Spanish tapas. These small finger foods are often served on a small piece of bread with a long toothpick skewer holding together the two or three toppings—often seafood, vegetables, cheese, or other toppings.

Pintxo bars feature entire counters filled with hundreds of colorful offerings which can also be ordered warm from a menu. They are typically eaten as a snack or appetizer before going home or to a restaurant for dinner. However, those doing a real “pintxo crawl” consider this a serious sport and often eat the small servings generously.

Xabi took us to one of his favorite pintxo bars and determined what sort of foods we like—yes to Brocheta de Gambas (grilled prawns or shrimps served on crusty bread), yes to Cod, yes to Bacon-Wrapped Dates, no to Octopus, no to Txipirones en su Tinta (poached squid tinted with its own ink to enhance the natural flavors of the sea), no to Salty Anchovy, no to Foie Gras, yes to Idiazabal cheese, yes to Solomillo (beef tenderloin)—we got the hang of it pretty quickly. If we disappointed him in our rather tame choice of pintxos, he did not let on, but gamely showed us how the locals eat them—one large bite if possible, but two bites at the most.

These are often followed by bier or cider, but more fun when followed

by San Sebastian’s drink of choice, Txakoli (pronounced chac-o-lee) a sparking local dry white wine poured from a great height—but not too high!—(think arm’s length high poured into a glass about waisthigh), which is supposed to amplify

Trusted “Kuga”

the Txakoli’s effervescence.

But Xabi was most animated when he shared with us another tradition involving food—and more: the “txoko” (pronounced “choko”), or a “gastronomic society.” We had heard vaguely about these formerly men-only cooking clubs which are increasingly open also to women. Xabi accompanied us to one of the txokos where a few men had already begun to prepare the meal for the Basque members who would later gather in the dining hall where they would eat with their friends.

The txoko includes an abundance of tasty food fresh from the farm and from the sea—items the guys pick up at the local market—but paramount is the camaraderie that may keep members cooking, eating, sharing stories and song until the “wee hours,” whenever that is. Honor-bound to pay the establishment for whatever they cook and consume, the members of these social clubs follow a century-old tradition that allows men who had migrated from the country to the city to keep alive their culture, their recipes, and their Basque language. When Xabi hugged Ken in farewell at a Pinxto bar late that evening, I couldn’t help thinking he had enjoyed sharing his culture almost as much as we had enjoyed his willingness to do so. We

hope he won’t be disappointed with just a simple “cook-out” when he one day visits us.

Basque as a language Even if we did not speak the language, we began to understand more of the importance of this ancient language, “Euskara,” to those in the Basque Autonomous Communities. Linguistic experts have been unable to discover the origin of Basque, which has no known origin or relation to any other language. Basque is, however, a point of great pride for those who speak it and who understand that language and identity are inseparable. This pride in the ancient language comes in spite of, or perhaps in response to, the Basque language having been severely suppressed during the regime of Francisco Franco (1939-1975), who forced the use of Spanish. In fact, evidence indicates post-Franco censorship of the Basque language into the 1980s.

Censorship and banning of adult, youth, and even children’s books and culture were designed to emphasize just one cultural language, one way of thinking. Efforts to destroy the Basque language included requiring children stop using the language at school: offending children were punished by whippings,

corrections and sanctions, including requiring these children to wear a small copper ring that singled out those who broke the rule. The situation has changed drastically; the centuries-old Basque language is experiencing renewed emphasis and is now spoken by approximately 35 percent of today’s Basque population. No longer are Euskara speakers “informed on” and arrested by local authorities. No longer is the language or literature banned nor censored; students in public schools are now taught in Basque.

The Basque Country in France Even if the modern language challenges we faced did not lessen while we were exploring the French Basque region, the cities of St. Jean de Luz, Biarritz, Bayonne and the surrounding region brought their own level of unimagined beauty and reward, combined with incredible surprises. From Biarritz’s stunningly beautiful Eugenie Chapel in the Romanesque-Byzantine style, to the incredible Jean-Bernard Metais monumental sculpture of the Tour de France we happened upon, the drive was unforgettable. The Metais monument featured eight riders balanced precariously, artistically, on the nearly impossible “track,” with the lead rider, fists clenched high in DECEMBER 2023 | 95

victory, soaring to a first-place finish, well ahead of the nearest competitor. The physical victory of the Tour de France gave way to a spiritual triumph in the form of a sign pointing us to Lourdes, a “pilgrimage town” in southwestern France.

There, in 1858, a 14-year-old girl, Bernadette, reported numerous visions of the Virgin Mary in the nearby grotto. The girl’s visions were later declared by Pope Pius to be authentic, followed by a declaration of Mary as “Our Lady of Lourdes.”

When the underground spring in the grotto was declared to have healing qualities, the site became a major pilgrimage site.

Also not a scripted stop was a visit to this massive castle at Bertolene, dating to the 12th and 13th centuries. Ken could not resist—of course he couldn’t—driving up the harrowingly steep and narrow passage to the top of the mountain where the massive castle still stands guard over the village below. Not far away we chanced upon a magnificent cathedral in Mende with its magnificent 84-meter bell tower completed in 1467. Both ancient structures are silent reminders of the historic and cultural history of this part of our shared world.

Le Chambon sur Lignon Though not a part of the Basque Country, the French village of Le Chambon sur Lignon represented a special type of victory. For many years I had shared with students in my Holocaust classes the history of this and other villages in the region, where the courageous but tragically rare resistance efforts like those of Pastor Andre Trocme, his wife, Magda, and others had saved the lives of thousands of Jews from deportation and almost certain death.

Ken had agreed early on that we could not be within a few hours of this community in the Pyrenees of southwestern France and not go there, not walk the streets, not visit the church, not see if the story of the people of this and other villages in the Haute Loire who refused to turn over to the Vichy government 96 |

the many Jews who sought refuge on the “Plateau,” still lives on. It does. Two conversations--one with an older lady outside a church and another with a teen student in a small but impressive Lieu de Memoire Memorial Museum left no doubt. The museum’s publication says in part: “In a wild and rugged landscape, descendants of Huguenots did what they simply saw as their duty. Risking their lives, they hid refugees and sheltered and saved Jewish children. Even today, Le Chambon welcomes these ‘children,’ now adults, who come to pay homage to those on our Plateau who saved them.” The number of Jewish refugees who found shelter in private homes, in attics, barns, hotels, and cellars in this and surrounding villages where the majority of the population was involved in rescue efforts is believed to be around 5,000.

Andorra The beauty of our open agenda travel plan served us well once again when we realized, having picked up in a bookstore one of those now-ancient tools of travel called a map, our route from the southern French countryside back to the Barcelona airport would allow a short side trip to one of Europe’s smallest states, Andorra. We could see that this landlocked country, with an elevation of up to 10,000 feet, was nestled in the Pyrenees Mountains, encircled by France to the north and Spain to the south. With this promise of a scenic and exciting drive, we headed to Andorra la Vella, the capital city where we decided to spend a couple of nights. Enroute, we would pass through several of Andorra’s seven parishes, including La Massana, Ordina, Canillo, and Encamp, each of which was stunning, even from the distance of the high mountain roadway. Had we read further in our online search, we would have probably read about how, “For many centuries, until eclipsed by tourism and other service industries, sheep raising was the basis of Andorra’s economy.”

Had we known that, no doubt we

would not have been quite so taken aback when, in the Bari Antik (Old Town) of the municipality’s capital city, we came across this tiny woman whose Great Pyrenees sheep dog she called “Funzio” more than doubled his owner in size and weight.

Had we not been so charmed by the dog’s great personality and affection, we might never have met Mary Angel, a friend of Funzio’s owner, who, speaking English as fluently as she spoke their official Catalan language, assured us Funzio was very people-friendly and explained to us his value in herding sheep.

Had we not spent time playing with the beautiful Funzio, we might not have seemed the sort of people to be interested in seeing Mary Angel’s house, a 300-year-old structure she had recently restored. It had been her family’s home place, a three-story house with exposed rustic timber logs, a place where she and her daughter Klara now proudly live and maintain to the extent possible the “old ways.” We would have missed, no doubt, her patient explanation of the importance of preservation of architecture, language, foods, customs, of all aspects of their shared French and Spanish cultures in this small principality which has remained relatively isolated from the outside world. Most of all, we would have missed Mary Angel’s promise to visit us at our home in Arkansas.

Salvador Dali’s sculpture “The Nobility of Time” There was no easy way to bring to an end the mind-boggling, eye-opening, fun-filled trip to the Basque Country and beyond, but soon Ken would head Kuga back to her stall in the Barcelona Airport.

On this, our last day in the heart of Andorra la Vella, we stopped to look closely at an object to which we had previously given not much more than a passing glance on the several times we had walked past it. We now saw it as a sculpture of what seemed a distorted clock with tree branches and a couple of figures—a man and a woman—on the sides. The man is represented as an

angel and seems to be looking down in contemplation, while the woman looks upward. In this piece of art, the clock is topped by a crown. The sculpture stands in the heart of the city, at the Placa de la Rotonda. We had passed by the clock on our way to tour the old Parliament Building and the Seven Poets sculptures representing Andorra’s seven parishes that are especially striking when lighted at night. We had passed by the piece enroute to that incredible footpath trail that led us on a fascinating two-hour rustic and invigorating foot trail high above the city. We had also passed this melting clock sculpture when we visited the majestic glass spire of the Parc de la Mola. What had seemed just an abstract sculpture of a misshapen clock on those first fleeting glances (remember, fine art afficionados, we are not), now, on our last day, morphed into something more, something personal. The piece we now know to be a sculpture by surrealist artist Salvador Dali is part of a series of melting clocks considered symbolic of the passage of time, possibly of the domination of time over humankind.

For us, the sculpture whose name is “Noblesse du Temps” simply reminded us it was time for us to go home--time to carefully pack our wonderful memories and simply go home. We had experienced the unexpected, the unexplainable.

We had been reminded of human kindness and of a shared humanity with those we did not know. We had been shown both our own limitations and an unlimited capacity for growth. We had experienced the importance of being open to the discovery of treasures—some of them human, some of them historical lessons of the past. Our trip was now complete, represented, perhaps, by the two figures on Dali’s melting clock: one of them, head bowed in contemplation, and the other, looking upward, arms outstretched, as if preparing to take flight.

Women on the Wharf

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” Saint Augustine.

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We are the Lions

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William Straw, Administrator; Arkansas Governor Sarah Huckabee Sanders; and Deonna Towery, Director of Nursing.

Manila Healthcare Center is a recipient of the 2023 Governors Quality Award. The Challenge Award Healthcare Center is a recipient of the requires them to define key characteristics, such as mission, vision, values, customer groups, and strategic challenges and advantages.

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