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Introduction The Municipality of Viškovo – home to four distinctive cultural assets inscribed in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage: the annual carnival bell ringers’ pageant from the Kastav area, two-part singing and playing in the Istrian scale, the art of dry stone walling, knowledge and techniques, and the Mediterranean diet of the Croatian Adriatic, its coast, islands and part of its hinterland.

Located midway between mountain and sea, this we-

shrouded in both moss and the ancient sounds of tradi-

alth of simplicity invites you to discover a life where tra-

tional sopela woodwind instruments, invite curious na-

dition resonates as vividly as the peals of the Halubaj-

ture explorers and recreationists to bear witness to the

ski zvončari bell ringers rhythmically walking the area’s

stories concealed by green forests dotted with sinkholes,

secluded paths and trails. Centuries-old dry-stone walls,

ponds and rocky hills revealing unforgettable vistas.

The Mediterranean diet of the Croatian Adriatic, its coast, islands and part of its hinterland The traditional bond with nature is reflected in the local diet, in which ingredients are selected according to their authenticity, seasonality, environmental and economic sustainability as well as high nutritional value, thus achieving benefits that are scientifically verifiable. The menus of the Halubje and Kastav areas belong to the Mediterranean diet model characteristic of the Adriatic hinterland, with variations conditioned by historical events and cultural influences. As a result, the offer of the numerous restaurants in this area is based on dishes that combine the local culinary heritage with current trends in cuisine.

STEAK TARTARE - aioli sauce - hot pimentón - tabasco chipotle - freshly ground pepper, mustard, salt, extra virgin olive oil - beef Chop the meat into small cubes and put into a bowl. Add all the ingredients to taste and mix using two tablespoons until the spices combine with the meat into a creamy tartare. In case the tartare lacks creaminess, add a little water until the desired texture is achieved.

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J-I-S-T CROATIAN FINE DINNING Široli 27

+385 51 374 597

booking@jist.hr

www.jist.hr

The Restaurant JIST invites you to uncover an exceptional culinary experience. Located in a typical house of the Halubje area with walls recalling memories of past centuries, and decorated in a style that respects tradition, this restaurant nurtures the culture of enjoying food of exclusively Croatian origin. In this distinctive venue, attention is paid to every detail in order to create a special sensation for your every sense. Distinguished by its superior presentation and impeccable service, the restaurant offers selected meat specialities such as steak aged for at least four weeks in a dry ager, T-bone steak, steak tartare, or salami and sausages prepared with only the best ingredients.

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Restaurant Nono Frane Viškovo 47

+385 51 561 219

info@nonofrane.com

www.nonofrane.com

With its meat menu and the irresistible scent of the grill, the spacious shady terrace of Restaurant Nono Frane will tempt even the most discerning gourmets. Located in one of the oldest houses in the heart of Viškovo, it offers a combination of peaceful atmosphere and culinary delights, especially meat delicacies such as aged steaks of domestic origin, dishes prepared on a grill or ember-baked in a traditional peka baking lid, and homemade pasta with sauces from selected local ingredients and truffles. A pleasant ambience, attentive staff and constant culinary innovations are the key characteristics of this restaurant.

HOMEMADE PLJUKANCI PASTA WITH FRESH BLACK TRUFFLES - 250 g homemade pljukanci

- salt, vegetable stock

- 50 g butter

- black ground truffle

- 40 g parmesan cheese

- fresh black summer truffle

Put pljukanci into boiling salted water and cook until they float to the surface. Melt the butter in a pan, simmer the black ground truffles lightly, and add parmesan cheese and a little vegetable stock. Continue cooking for a few more minutes. When ready, put pljukanci into the sauce and add a few slices of fresh black truffle. Serve on a plate and decorate with a few more slices of fresh black truffle.

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Restaurant Mladenka Vozišće 28 +385 51 256 461 info@mladenka.hr restaurant-mladenka.eatbu.hr If you want to experience the lively and warm atmosphere of local life, we recommend visiting the Restaurant Mladenka, which since 1968 has specialised in preparing dishes according to local recipes, amongst them zarebrnik (pork loin in wine), sausages with sauerkraut, jota (beans and sauerkraut) and various stews prepared with selected seasonal vegetables. This is also the right place to taste fritule fritters and presnac cake: local desserts prepared on special occasions. In addition to the popular marenda brunches, the restaurant also offers a wide-ranging menu inspired by quality ingredients of Mediterranean and continental cuisine.

ZAREBRNIK (PORK LOIN IN WINE) - 250 g smoked pork loin

- 600 g potatoes

- 0.1 dl olive oil

- pinch of salt

- 2 dl white wine

- ½ teaspoon black pepper

- 0.5 dl milk

- parsley

Thinly slice the pork loin and put in the hot oil. Lightly fry and add the white wine. Leave to cook on a low heat for 1-2 minutes. At the end of cooking, add a little milk to produce a nice texture. Serve with boiled potatoes.

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Restaurant Ronjgi Ronjgi 1

+385 51 313 579

info@ronjgi.hr

www.ronjgi.hr

Restaurant Ronjgi is located in a typical house of the littoral region with a cistern surrounded by tables in the shade of vines. A perfectly quiet place whose view takes in Kastav, Mount Učka and the Kvarner islands, it offers an interesting blend of traditional cuisine and contemporary culinary trends. In addition to local delicacies such as zarebrnik (pork loin), sausages in wine or maneštra (thick bean soup with sausages), the speciality of the house is game dishes. Enclosed by the centuries-old stone walls of the birthplace of composer Ivan Matetić Ronjgov, this restaurant is an indispensable centre of the culinary, cultural and natural heritage of the Kastav area.

GAME GOULASH - 2 kg game meat

- 250 g carrots

- 100 ml sour cream

- 5 gloves of garlic

- 200 ml white wine

- 100 g bacon

- salt, pepper

- 1 kg onions

- 150 g parsley root

- 100 ml oil

- 150 g celery root

- laurel leaf

Chop the meat and fry in the oil. In the same fat, simmer the chopped vegetables and spices. Add the meat to the vegetables and continue cooking. At the end of cooking, add the wine and sour cream, and season. Bring to the boil and serve with gnocchi, pasta or polenta.

Two-part singing and playing in the istrian scale

A specific style of two-part singing and playing dating back to ancient times, known locally as na tanko i debelo, has been preserved in Istria, the Croatian Littoral and on the island of Krk. It was annotated and elaborated by the musicologist and composer Ivan Matetić Ronjgov (1880-1960). His birthplace today features a memorial collection, and in the immediate vicinity there are numerous walking and cycling trails that attract many athletes.

Konobe & oštarije – Local taverns and inns A konoba (cellar) is an integral part of the typical littoral house, where people would store produce from the fields and vineyards and get together to sing, dine and enjoy good company. Today, the term konoba also describes taverns that generally offer local food. An oštarija (inn) is a place where people traditionally met on holidays and played typical Mediterranean games: bocce and cards. 16

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Maretina Konoba

BRODET FISH STEW - various fish

Clean the fish, fry it and put

- olive oil

to one side. Then fry the

- onions

sliced onions, garlic, flour and

- garlic

chopped tomatoes in a little

The Maretina Konoba tavern is renowned for offering the

- flavour

oil, pour over with wine and

enchanting flavours and aromas of the sea. Behind the

- chopped

water, and let it boil. When it

iron doors there is a centuries-old konoba tavern with the

tomatoes

thickens, add salt and pep-

scent of fish and seafood specialities wafting through the

some wine

per, and the previously fried

air. Daily fresh dishes prepared with seasonal, local ingre-

- salt, pepper,

fish. Boil everything togeth-

Viškovo 24 +385 51 256 057 maretina.konoba@ri.t-com.hr

maretinakonoba

dients such as asparagus, make Maretina an essential visit

parsley

er for about ten minutes.

for those in search of exceptional culinary experiences: not

In the end, add parsley, re-

just in Viškovo, but in the Rijeka area as a whole. Traditional

move from the heat and let

fish dishes of the region such as salted fish, fish marinade

the brodet cool a little. Serve

or cod stew, as well as top seafood delicacies, are served

with polenta.

on the restaurant’s green terrace or in its pleasant interior.

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Konoba Kume Kosi 72 +385 51 258 272 konoba-kume.eatbu.com

zlata.sunce@gmail.com

Located halfway between Viškovo and Kastav, the Konoba Kume tavern offers traditional dishes that invigorate and renew your energy. A long tradition in the preparation of dishes such as tripe or maneštra (thick bean soup) is a guarantee that you will be restored from fatigue and cold in the winter months. On warm summer days, the restaurant is a cosy and authentic venue in which to enjoy light and refreshing meals prepared according to original recipes.

FRITAJA SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SPRING ONIONS AND ASPARAGUS - oil - spring onions - asparagus - eggs Heat some oil in a pan and add the sliced spring onions and asparagus. Add salt and let everything simmer lightly. Keep adding water until soft. When the onions and asparagus soften, pour over the whole eggs, and stir gently so that the dish remains soft. Serve as a dish on its own, or with polenta or boiled potatoes.

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Oštarija Trampov Breg Trampov breg 42

+385 95 539 7149

trampovbreg42@gmail.com

trampovbreg

The Oštarija Trampov Breg inn invites you to sample its delicious combination of quality local ingredients. In this newly renovated space, in addition to local cuisine, you can enjoy first-class gourmet dishes ember-baked in a traditional peka lid, homemade pasta, or pašticada (ox cheek stew). The scent of home-made bread coming to your table from the wood-fired oven is unforgettable!

The art of dry stone walling Mortar-less, stone-stacked walls amaze visitors with their durability and geometric regularity, meandering irresistibly through the karst valleys, past the occasional pond, demarcating clearings and paths and inviting the discovery of new forest trails. Woven into the heritage of the Mediterranean landscape that surrounds them, these mute stone witnesses invariably make a distinct and overpowering impression.

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Bistro Staročeško Viškovo 122

+ 385 51 618 493

Bistro-Staročeško

A spacious outdoor terrace in the centre of Viškovo invites you to visit Bistro Staročeško, which offers a wide selection of marenda brunches. A daily selection of several types of hot refreshments, a wide range of meat dishes with an emphasis on specialities from the grill such as ćevapčići (minced meat rolls), as well as typical dishes of the region such as jota (beans and sauerkraut) or seasonal vegetable stews, guarantee a delicious culinary experience before you continue your day’s activities.

GOULASH WITH GNOCCHI - meat (pork, veal) - onions, garlic, carrots - spices: salt, black pepper, sweet ground red pepper Cut the meat into small pieces and fry in the oil for about 15 minutes. Remove the meat and sauté the finely chopped onion. When brown, add the garlic, carrots, parsley and laurel leaf to taste. Put the meat back into the cooking pot and continue simmering, adding water as necessary. Add spices (salt, black pepper, sweet ground red pepper, etc.) and continue to cook, adding water as needed, until done. Serve with cooked gnocchi.

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Bistro Mario

ČOBANAC SHEPHERD’S STEW - 2-3 onions

Marinići 16/1

+ 385 51 682 435

Bistro-MARIO

- beef and pork leg - celery and parsley leaf and root

Bistro Mario, located on the main Viškovo-Rijeka road,

- garlic, carrots

is known for its wide range of freshly prepared hot

- peeled tomatoes and a teaspoon of

marenda brunches. In addition to a wide selection of stews prepared with seasonal vegetables according to traditional recipes, the bistro also offers a generous choice of grilled dishes.

concentrated tomato paste - salt, pepper, sweet and hot ground red pepper (chili peppers can also be added) - water or meat stock

Cut the meat into small cubes. Finely chop the onions and garlic, and cut the rest of the vegetables into smaller pieces. Fry the meat in fat or oil until brown. Put the meat to one side and use the rest of the fat to sauté the vegetables. After the vegetables soften a bit, put back the meat and continue to cook, occasionally adding water or stock. Add the garlic, spices and tomato concentrate, stir and simmer. Add the peeled tomatoes and continue to simmer. Add water or stock and bring to the boil. Cook slowly, over a low heat. Towards the end of cooking, if necessary, add water or stock, to make it soupy. If desired, add diced potatoes to taste.

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Pizzeria Podroom Vozišće 5 +385 51 620 905 pizzeria.podroom@gmail.com

pizzeria.podroom

Pizzeria Podroom will delight you with the pleasant and sophisticated atmosphere of its elegantly decorated interior and the rich offer of Italian cuisine dishes such as a wide selection of pizzas ranging from the classic and well known, prepared with local ingredients like asparagus, to some original varieties, such as the popular pizza rolls. In addition, the restaurant offers homemade pasta and lasagne.

PODROOM ROLLS Podroom rolls are the house speciality of Pizzeria Podroom. They are stuffed with Alpine gouda and Italian mozzarella cheeses, smoked ham, Dalmatian pršut (dry-cured ham), local mini tomatoes, and rucola. The ingredients are simply arranged on a hand-pulled pizza dough, which is rolled up and baked in a (preferably wood-fired) oven, and then served with a mild and spicy sauce.

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Pizzeria Jeans Gornji Sroki 42

+385 51 256 543

Pizzeria-Jeans

The wide-ranging menu in Pizzeria Jeans, the oldest pizzeria in Viškovo, will satisfy even the most demanding pizza lovers. It offers a wide selection of pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven – from classic types to rather unusual combinations that are well worth trying.

The annual carnival bell ringers’ pageant from the Kastav area

With their appearance and specific ritual pageant, the Halubajski zvončari differ from other bell ringer groups from the Kastav area. Their home is Halubje, their origins date back to ancient times, and their role in protecting against all evil is enshrined in local legends and beliefs. The carnival period begins with the blowing of a horn on 17 January, and ends with a three-day pageant that is the bell-ringers’ ritual valediction to winter and invocation of a new life cycle. You can experience the pageant of the Halubajski zvončari bell ringers every year during the three days before Ash Wednesday.

CHOCOLATE RHAPSODY Sponge cake

Mix both types of sugar, the cocoa, baking

- 75 g while sugar

powder and salt in a bowl. Pour hot water

- 25 g brown sugar

over the mixture, stir again, and leave to

- 35 g cocoa

cool for about five minutes. Then add the

- 1 teaspoon baking powder

oil and butter at room temperature and –

- pinch of salt

while stirring – add the egg and yolk, flour,

- 50 ml hot water

and finally sour cream and milk. Pour the

- 20 ml oil

mixture into a mould and bake for about

- 30 g butter

30 minutes, depending on the oven.

- 1 egg

As the base for all three types of mousse,

- 1 yolk

boil the milk with the sweet cream and

- 1 teaspoon vanilla aroma

whisk the yolks. Pour the yolks over the

- 130 g flour

boiling mixture, stirring constantly, and

- 50 g sour cream

then bring the cream back to the heat

- 40 ml milk

and allow to boil briefly. Divide into three equal parts. Pour cold water over the two gelatine leaves to soften, and melt the

Cream – Triple chocolate

dark chocolate in a bain-marie. Mix the

mousse

chocolate and drained gelatine with a

- 390 ml milk

third of the prepared cream, cool to room

- 390 ml sweet cream

temperature, and stir in the whipped

- 6 yolks

cream. Put the biscuit base in a mould,

- 180 g dark chocolate

pour the dark chocolate mousse over it,

- 2 gelatine leaves

and put it in the fridge to let the cream

- 250 ml whipping cream

harden a little. Repeat the same pro-

- 200 g white chocolate

cess with the milk chocolate and finally

- 3 gelatine leaves

the white chocolate. After adding the

- 250 ml whipping cream

milk chocolate mousse, the cake should be put in the fridge again to allow the cream to set. When the cake is ready, let it cool and decorate with icing, whipped cream, chocolate candies, etc.

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Pastry shop Zvončarnica Marinići 12A

+ 385 91 353 7849

jarugar.zvoncarnica01@gmail.com

zvoncarnica

Affection for the Halubajski zvončari bell ringers is reflected in the name and interior design of the Slastičarnica Zvončarnica pastry shop, a must-see place if you want to taste delicious flavours of tradition. Selected ingredients of local origin are paired with top-quality Belgian chocolates, creating an extraordinary harmony of tradition and modernity. The beautifully designed sweets inspired by traditional life hide fantastic flavours that are simply impossible to resist.

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Pastry shop Torteria Viškovo 123

+385 51 334 519

slasticarnatorteria

The Slastičarna Torteria pastry shop, whose interior design features works of local amateur artists, is the perfect place to taste sweet treats. Gourmets will find here a wide selection of cakes prepared exclusively from natural ingredients with an emphasis on local ingredients. In addition to lovingly created cream cakes, you can also taste strudels, baklava (filo pastry dessert), delicious ice cream, or fragrant coffee.

KREMŠNITE (CUSTARD SLICES) - puff pastry (if homemade: flour, margarine, water and salt)

- flour - vanilla sugar

- eggs

- sweet cream

- sugar

- milk

Mix the flour, margarine, water and salt to make a puff pastry. Put it into a cold place for a while, shape it and bake until it gets a nice colour. Make a cream from the eggs, sugar, flour, vanilla sugar, sweet cream and milk to be used as filling. Place the pastry on a serving tray or baking tray, carefully pour the warm cream on it, spread it out and wait for it to cool down a little. Then place the top layer of pastry and let it cool well. Sprinkle with powdered sugar to taste.

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Pastry shop Nora Vozišće 113

+385 91 537 1752

kalcic.valter1@gmail.com

In the centre of Viškovo, in the deep shade of a walnut tree and with a view of the local square and the church, the Slastičarna Nora pastry shop invites you to enjoy excellent ice cream. With its spacious interior and pleasant exterior, this is a favourite place for the locals to talk, get together and enjoy delicious refreshing cakes, favourite kremšnite custard slices, or delicious coffee.

FERRERO ROCHER CAKE - 6 eggs

- 1 baking powder

- 160 g sugar

- 500 g mascarpone cheese

- 160 g dark chocolate

- 500 g Nutella

- 140 g butter

- 300 g roasted hazelnuts

- 100 g flour (type 550) Separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whisk the whites into a stiff batter. Beat the yolks with sugar and vanilla sugar until the mixture becomes frothy. Melt the chocolate and butter and, stirring gently, add to the egg yolk mixture. Add the flour with the baking powder and mix everything lightly. Finally, add the egg whites and mix gently. Pour the mixture into a mould and put into the oven. Be careful not to let the dough dry out. Let it cool and cut it into three parts. Chop the roasted hazelnuts and mix with the mascarpone cheese and Nutella. Top the cake with the prepared cream, pour the chocolate glaze over it, and decorate with the ground walnuts and cream cookies.

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Alongside physical activity in the open air and socialising, the Mediterranean diet is one of the most important elements of health and vitality. All these factors, perfectly integrated into everyday life, can be found in Viškovo. In the hinterland of Rijeka and Opatija, where the blue of the sea meets the green of the mountains, the centuries have fashioned a menu based on local and seasonal ingredients, creating a unique culinary experience inseparable from other aspects of traditional culture: music, architecture, tradition, and language. Halubje – an oasis of good cuisine in which each menu, imbued with the secret ingredients of culture, forms a unique culinary experience that blends in the fragrant flavours of tradition.

IMPRESUM:

Publisher: Tourist board Viškovo | Authors: Marina Frlan- Jugo, Marina Jurić | Photos: Ivan Vranjić, Sanjin Mačar, Marko Gracin, Petar Fabijan, Tourist board Viškovo archive, Restauran JIST, Restaurant Ronjgi, Oštarija Trampov Breg, Olympia studio j.d.o.o. | Translation: Adverbum d.o.o., Opatija | Design and Graphical layout: DesignOne Press: DesignOne, 2020.

A STORY THAT CONNECTS

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