Dani's Rome Blog

STAR ST AR CLIPPERS

Dani’s Blog A Roman Discovery...

Aboard Star Flyer

A Roman Discovery...

Aboard Star Flyer Rome - The ancient city steeped in unimaginable history.

The next morning we arrived for our pre-booked tour of

Frequented by travellers around the world, city break revellers

the Vatican City. A 3 hour guided tour took us through the

and those wanting to lose themselves in another century, just

many Vatican museums and the famous Sistine chapel. If

for 24 hours. The traditional trattorias line the cobbled streets

you have time I would really recommend this experience, a

and piazzas, with cold prosecco and limoncello available

surreal and overwhelming few hours that genuinely left us

on every corner, fresh pizzas and pasta let you indulge in

speechless, the history, the art, the religion, makes this a very

the Italian way of life, whilst you soak up the incredible

special place.

architecture as you realise, Rome really wasn’t built in a day....

After a quick spot of lunch, we rushed to Termini train station to catch the train to Civitavecchia port, where we were to board the Star Flyer. At just €6pp, this is definitely the cheapest way to reach the port as it is a fair distance, over €100 in a taxi I believe. I would suggest you leave plenty of time to get to the station and find your train as Termini is very large and can be quite stressful if you leave it to the final minutes like we did! Other than our time keeping, the process was easy and if you have the time, it’s definitely worth doing to save on the taxi fare. Just over an hour later and we were there; ready to meet our home for the next 8 nights.

For all of the above reasons, and so much more, I would always recommend a stay in the city before or after your

Lined up next to Norwegian Cruise Lines and Pullmantur,

sailing, just a night or two would suffice, and we opted for

there was no mistaking the Star Flyer, standing taller than

a one-night pre-cruise stay at the 4* boutique Marcella

the rest, but in every other way the most petite and elegant

Royal hotel. The location was good, a 10-minute walk to the

ship in port, her four masts standing proud as guests look

Spanish steps, so fairly central, allowing us to do everything

up in excitement before boarding the ship. The fruity

on foot. Starting with the Colosseum, we ventured in awe of

welcome cocktail is always appreciated, especially after the

our surroundings, before taking a rest at the famous Trevi

train journey we’d had, so we happily drank ours before the

Fountain, an awesome sight, but in late July, littered with tourists, like us, of course!

The Marcella Royal has a real selling point, it’s beautiful roof top bar, the perfectly kept flowers and traditional style Veranda offered the perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks, boasting views over the ancient city as the sun sets, the only way to end the day in style.

seamless check in process which didn’t last longer than 3

safety drill and crew introductions in the Tropical Bar. After

minutes, eventually being shown to our cabin.

our only required engagement of the day. We then found two sun loungers on the sun deck and lazed the day away, reading, chatting, drinking and eating, a day that allows you to completely switch off from reality and relax. Watching the ropes and sails above you from the sunbeds, open ocean every direction you look from the decks, total escapism.

As I’d been on before, we were invited to the ‘back on board cocktail party’ hosted by the captain at 7pm that evening, we enjoyed the friendly chats we had with fellow repeat passengers, all sharing sailing stories from past trips with Star Clippers as we sipped chilled prosecco and spoke

Cabin 309 is a category 2 cabin on the Clipper deck, a

with the Captain, the sinking sun was dancing on the still

spacious cabin with a porthole, marble lined en-suite shower

blue sea making the most spectacular backdrop for this

room and plenty of hanging space for our clothes. All the

exclusive party.

cabins on Star Clippers are designed in the 1920’s theme, in keeping with the rest of the ship, the nautical touches

After another delicious dinner, everyone gathered in

ever present, all in all, a lovely cabin. If you are sensitive to

the al fresco Tropical Bar for the infamous ‘Star Clippers

noise, you will hear the waiters setting up for breakfast each

Fashion Show’, mainly modelled by the crew, with occasional

morning, so you might want to choose a cabin a little further

passenger participation, a fun show of the luxury fashion

away from the dining room if this is the case, but for us it was

on offer in the Sloop Shop. The drinks start to flow and the

perfect.

music plays until late into the night, as people start to fill the dance floor and enjoy their second night on board this

The first evening on board is always special, your first few

beautiful sailing ship...

hours with fellow guests, new friendships start to form and the anticipation of the first sail away is building among the small crowd, a wonderful atmosphere.

After dinner, at 10pm, everybody gathers up on the teak decks by the bridge, the bartenders serve glasses of champagne for €7.50 up on the sun deck for this magical moment, which everyone is ready to indulge in. As the classical sounds start to fill the air and the skilled members of the crew start to pull the ropes, the sails start to rise above us as we glide carefully out of port. The champagne sail away on Star Clippers will always impress, not just the first time,

After a light breakfast, we left the ship for a walk

but Second, third and even twentieth, as some of our fellow

around Cagliari, Sardinia, our port today. We explored

guests were experiencing...

independently, strolling up the hill to a small piazza, the typical Italian buildings, red and yellow, but washed away

An early night for us, after a busy few days, so we retired

from the years of wear, the wooden shutters and Juliette

to our cabins for a long sleep, tomorrow was going to be

balconies with overgrown flowers wrapped around them,

impossibly tough, a day relaxing at sea!

mopeds sped along the narrow streets, the old churches and cathedrals stood out in their natural beauty. We stopped for a

We woke late, so opted for the lighter continental

quick drink before walking back to the ship, only spending an

breakfast, available until 1130am in the Piano Lounge and

hour or so soaking up the town, which was very quaint and

enjoyed fresh pastries and coffees while we attended the

pretty, certainly worth a look around!

Back on board, we enjoyed the French lunch buffet, before

ventured past a few local restaurants where the food looked

once again retiring to our favourite spot on deck, ready for

out of this world. Huge plates of fresh fish, the largest prawns

our first daytime sail away!

I’d ever seen and tempting pasta dishes with the wonderful smell of garlic filling the air. The prices were more than

After dinner, the ever competitive ‘Music Quiz’ took centre stage in the Tropical Bar. Two teams formed, one on

reasonable, with main courses for around 6 euros, I would recommend eating lunch in Trapani next time!

Portside and one Starboard, ready to battle it out during several rounds covering a variety of music genres. The energy

Back on board we were slightly delayed leaving, meaning

and fun that this provides is fantastic, and always culminates

we had to miss today’s sail away to make sure we were ready

in everybody dancing the night away... Another perfect Star

for dinner, but we spent the best hours of the afternoon up on

Clippers evening!

deck still, indulging in the cocktail of the day of course, and chatting to fellow guests about their experiences of Trapani that day - it seems to have been a hit!

Down at dinner, we perused the tempting menu, which if you wanted to, would allow you to enjoy a 6-course al a carte meal every evening. We usually opt for 3 courses, a bottle of wine and an espresso to finish the evening off, before heading back up to the bar for the light hearted and low key entertainment on offer. Tonight was slightly different as we had chosen to sign up to the ‘stargazing’ at 11pm, hosted by one of the officers at the bridge. The night sky is lit up by

This morning we sailed into Trapani, on the west tip of

thousands of stars, with no other light apart from the natural

Sicily. We didn’t dock until 1pm so everyone was able to

skylights shining down on us, as the various constellations

spend the morning at leisure, relaxing on the deck, eagerly

were explained to us all and tips given on how we can see a

watching the officers at the bridge expertly guiding us into

shooting star. Everyone was looking up in wonderment, a

our next port. During the hours at sea, there is usually several

really special experience and a wonderful way to spend an

different nautical activities offered to guests, such as mast

evening.

climbing, water aerobics or interesting lectures in the library, this week by a lady called ‘Renate’, a specialist in her field, archaeology.

Once alongside, and after a delicious ‘deck lunch’ we took a slow walk into the quaint town of Trapani. Again, a really typically Italian town, with several Piazza’s, famous statues, stunning architecture and endless Vespa’s filling the roads.

We walked north of the port, through the narrow streets, and found the other side of the island, a small beach area.

There were people swimming and hand gliding from the beach, but we’d forgotten to bring our towels forcing us to

Sunday saw us arriving alongside in Porto Empedocle

admire from a distance, before finding a cute Gelato parlour

– Sicily. The cruise director had given some information

for a compulsory ice cream stop. Italy is, of course, famous

the previous day at the ‘port talk’ but had indicated that

for its ice cream and in my opinion, the smaller towns and

unless you were doing the excursion, it might not be worth

villages do it best! Always try to find a small shop, slightly

getting off the ship, as this was a very industrial port, and

off the tourist track, for the best original Italian ice cream -

not particularly pretty. We stayed on board for lunch, and

simply delicious! We paid €4 for two massive ice creams, so

considered staying on the decks, but feeling the weight of our

the prices were really good too. Walking back to the ship we

waistlines we decided a stroll around was required! Not

for anyone that wants to be involved, but distant enough if you just prefer to sit having a drink and chatting among yourselves. Along with the Fashion Show & the Music Quiz, there was also a ‘Star Clippers photo quiz’ a skylight cinema showing the film ‘Cape Horn’ and a night of ‘Disco Dancing’.

Malta is a fascinating city, and to have the day in Valetta was a real treat. Hours could easily be spent (and were) in and out of the shops, wandering around the many squares lined with restaurants and craft stalls, much like Covent Garden in the sunshine really – but of course – it is the architecture and history that make Valetta stand apart. We decided to take a horse and carriage to see some of the sights, haggling the man down from 45 euros to 25 euros before we started of course, so make sure you get a good price! After a relaxing 30 minute ride, taking in some fantastic viewpoints and interesting facts about the city, we searched for a local restaurant to have our first lunch ‘ashore’. I opted for the ‘Maltese Pasta’ which was delicious, and my partner settled on two very local dishes, a ‘Maltese pie’ and ‘Aranchini’.All washed down with a couple of cold local beers and we were on our way again. The heat expecting much, we began walking slowly out of the port

today was exhausting, so after taking the 1 euro lift back

area, which was indeed very built up and quite unsightly.

down to the port (don’t try to walk up or down in the heat!)

We wandered only for about 10 minutes, before stumbling

we ran straight to the decks and jumped straight in the

on a quaint backstreet, just adjacent to the port, and lined

swimming pool!

with cafeterias, pizzerias and small bars. There were locals chatting in the streets, with not a tourist in sight (apart from

We spent this afternoon in and out of the pool, sunbathing

fellow Star Clipper passengers) we were pleasantly surprised

and reading, before enjoying yet another food filled evening

to have found this hidden haven, in ‘real Sicily’. We stopped

in the dining room.

for Italian espressos and sat with a family who we’d seen on board – they had chosen to eat lunch off of the ship every

The following day we were anchored off Taormina – Sicily.

day, to get the real flavours of Italy, so were enjoying their

After a short tender ride to the pier, we walked along the very

pizzas and cold beers as we sat in the cobbled streets soaking

busy beach, until we found a spot close to the water to lay

up the ambience. Although, agreeably, it’s not the most

down our towels. It was a perfect contrast to be lying on the

picturesque port on the itinerary, it’s definitely worth having

beach, compared to the previous ports of call that had seen

a look around and finding this street.

us walking around and exploring towns and cities on foot, to have a beach day was just what the doctor ordered. Beer

This afternoon I had booked my second massage of the week, with the masseuse up on the sun deck There is a small tented area, with a proper massage bed, undercover from the sun or prying eyes, where you can completely relax and enjoy a very skilled massage. At just 54 euros for 60 minutes, it’s easy to see why this was my second of the week!

The evenings on board that followed, continue in a similar rhythm to that I’ve already described. The entertainment on board is purposefully low-key and light-hearted, there

o’clock soon came round, so we tried one bar, before moving

swiftly on after a rather rude waitress put us off stopping for a

and was just as breathtaking. We got lost in Lipari, in the

second drink leading us to a ‘beach club’ very close to where

best sense possible, letting our sights and senses lead the way,

the tender had dropped us off, but looking to ‘exclusive’

taking us down local roads away from the ‘tourist’ track to see

to enter just for a drink. Hesitantly we enquired, and were

the real Italian charm this place had to offer. We stopped at

greeted by a very friendly waitress this time, who invited us

one of the many pizzerias and ordered two Moretti beers, and

to spend some time on the white sofa loungers on the quiet

sat outside watching the world go by and enjoying the slow

beach, listening to their music and enjoying some beers and

pace of the day, this was one of my favourite ports of call.

snacks, all just for the cost of the beers (4 euros each) which we happily did for the rest of the afternoon. The beach area

Tonight was the infamous ‘Captain’s Night’ on Star Flyer,

here was busy with tourists, but still pleasant enough to relax,

meaning all of the crew looked particularly smart in their

especially with the view of the Star Flyer, and her bigger sister,

bow ties, but still, with no strict dress code for passengers,

Royal Clipper, who had anchored nearby too.

most enjoyed dressing up a little more for the occasion.

The dinner was a real treat, with choices of Lobster Tail

Everyone admired the Royal Clipper from the decks of Star Flyer, looking strikingly different in appearance, her five

or Chateaubriand to tingle the taste buds, everyone really took their time in the dining room, which was lovely. A complimentary glass of champagne was brought to the table as the Captain raised a toast and said a few personal words about the cruise, which were very well received. The traditional ‘Baked Alaska’ dance followed, a warm round of applause for all of the crew and lots of happy faces, just before it’s time to retire to the bar for the ‘Talent Show’. Following an array of dances from Goa, songs from one of the waiters, and fun from the sports team, the disco started and the mood was high, always one of the best nights on board and certainly the latest, a great time was had by all.

masts, square rigged shape standing regal against the drop of Mount Etna, the sail away was totally stunning, a perfect photo opportunity to get both of the ships in the moment.

Today was a sad day, it was the day we had to leave the Star Flyer. With heavy hearts, we disembarked the ship after saying our goodbyes to fellow crew and passengers

That evening we sailed through the Straits of Messina,

we now called our friends and over the course of the last

going through one of the most narrow points of the

8 nights, made fantastic memories with. We had a couple

Mediterranean, connecting the eastern tip of Sicily with the

of hours in Amalfi before we left for the airport, but as we

western tip of South Itlay. At it’s narrowest point of just 1.9

had our luggage we could do little exploring, other than to

miles, the scenery is incredible and makes for a very calm and

find another restaurant to sit in! I would definitely like to

serene evening on board, this was certainly a highlight of the

return to Amalfi though, the St Tropez or Monte Carlo of

itinerary for us.

Italy, the dramatic coastline so often seen in films and travel programmes does not disappoint when it comes to life before

Lipari is the largest and most populated of the Aeolian

your eyes. It was expensive, however much more so than the

islands, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily. As

smaller islands and ports we’d been used too, but it is to be

the tender brought us to shore, the stunning town before

expected in certain areas. We sat with a Peroni as we watched

us swept me away instantly. The pretty shops surrounding

the Star Flyer gracefully set sail and make way to her next

the harbour, the full cafes and bars create a real buzz and

destination…

the winding narrow streets take you on a maze trip around this beautiful place. It reminded me very much of Rovinj in Croatia, the short walk from the pier to the church at the top of the hill gave us the same viewpoint back to the ship as I remember experiencing on that particular itinerary before,

STAR CLIPPERS STAR CLIPPERS