Fort Worth Weekly // November 24-30, 2021

November 24-30, 2021 FREE fwweekly.com

Staying Power

Led by Jon Bonnell, who’s celebrating a milestone few other fine dining restos have surpassed, Fort Worth’s established eats scene seems to be surging, despite economic worry and social problems.

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STATIC Beto’s big announcement, a local bar owner’s big heart, and more local news you can use.

BY EDWARD BROWN

STUFF NBC News sets its sights on Southlake politics in its latest podcast.

BY EDWARD BROWN

L A U R I E

J A M E S

EATS Let Chef Lanny Lancarte’s Italian-Mexican ghost kitchen be your new haunt.

BY SUE CHEFINGTON

HEARSAY Phantomelo tops the list of shows to help you dance away the turkey coma.

BY ANTHONY MARIANI

Saddle Up for

FO R T WO R T H W E E K LY

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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COWBOY SANTA’S ARRIVAL

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THIS FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 26 | 11:30AM

Join us as we welcome Cowboy Santa to the Stockyards this Friday right after the 11:30am cattle drive.

Activities to follow his entrance include photos with Cowboy Santa, cowboy poetry, story time with Mrs. Claus and so much more! Also, don’t miss our holiday light spectacular at 6pm.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT FORTWORTHSTOCKYARDS.COM

@STO C K YA RDSSTAT I O N @ F WSYSTAT I O N

1 3 1 E E XC H A N G E AV E , FO RT WO RT H © 2021 STO C K YA R DS H E R I TAG E D EV E LO P M E N T C O.

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Number 34

November 24-30, 2021

INSIDE In an era defined by uncertainty, Fort Worth’s fine dining scene is one big success story.

By Laurie James

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Southlake in Six Parts Tarrant’s most notorious community is the subject of an NBC News podcast.

By Edward Brown

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Bob Niehoff, General Manager Ryan Burger, Art Director Jim Erickson, Circulation Director

Small but Mighty

Cross off your Christmas list at local maker’s markets Saturday.

By Jennifer Bovee

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Fantasma-go Get Some

Cover image courtesy of www.waterstexas.com

Edward Brown, Staff Writer

Megan Ables, Christina Berger, E.R. Bills, Jason Brimmer, Sue Chefington, Buck D. Elliott, Juan R. Govea, Patrick Higgins, Bo Jacksboro, Laurie James, Kristian Lin, Vishal Malhotra, Cody Neathery, Wyatt Newquist, Linda Blackwell Simmons, Madison Simmons, Teri Webster, Ken WheatcroftPardue, Cole Williams

Emmy Smith, Proofreader Michael Newquist, Regional Sales Director Jennifer Bovee, Marketing Director Stacey Hammons, Senior Account Executive Julie Strehl, Account Executive Tony Diaz, Account Executive Wyatt Newquist, Digital Coordinator Clintastic, Brand Ambassador

BOARD

Anthony Mariani, Edward

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DISTRIBUTION Fort Worth Weekly is available free of charge in the Metroplex, limited to one copy per reader. Additional copies of Fort Worth Weekly may be purchased for $1.00 each, payable at the Fort Worth Weekly office in advance. Fort Worth Weekly may be distributed only by Fort Worth Weekly’s authorized independent contractors or Fort Worth Weekly’s authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Fort Worth Weekly, take more than one copy of any Fort Worth Weekly issue. If you’re interested in being a distribution point for Fort Worth Weekly, please contact Will Turner at 817-321-9788.

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITORIAL

Don’t be afraid to pick up a pizza or three from the Fort’s newest ghost kitchen.

By Sue Chefington

Anthony Mariani, Editor Lee Newquist, Publisher

Cour tesy of Facebook

Decades of Deliciousness

STAFF

Brown, Emmy Smith

Fort Worth Weekly mailing address:

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DAZZLE WITH THE FRESHEST DECORATIONS

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A Defender Kara Carreras has built her practice one strong case at a time, including a recent and rare hung trial in federal court.

S T O R Y A N D P H O T O B Y M A D I S O N S I M M O N S

Kara Carreras, with her Southlake sensibilities and small-town Texas upbringing, might make an unlikely defendant of those who find themselves on the wrong

Static Beto is back, #BigLoveJenna lends a hand to the homeless, Arlington hiding emails, and more are happening now.

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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News Roundup

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E D W A R D

B R O W N

Texas and Tarrant County are in election season, with the governor’s race topping a long list of political contests that will see a slate of new leaders at both the county and state level. Against that political backdrop, the Lone Star State continues to garner national attention as the constitutionality of Senate Bill 8, the most restrictive abortion law in the nation, is being argued before the U.S. Supreme Court.

A ruling on the law that bans abortions after six weeks and encourages vigilante-style lawsuits against any pregnant woman who seeks an abortion — a right fully protected by the U.S. Constitution — is expected any day. The results of that court decision could embolden Texas’ Republican base or mark a setback for Gov. Greg Abbott leading up to his 2022 reelection bid.

METROPOLIS side of the law.

But she has made that her career.

This spring, the mother of three secured a rare hung jury in a complex federal case involving the notorious Dallas traphouse the Han Gil Hotel.

She and her co-counsel, fellow Fort Worth lawyer Cody Cofer, defended Bryan Hill, a Black veteran and drug addict accused of one count of drug conspiracy.

The owner of the Han Gil Hotel, Amos Su Young Mun, rented out the dilapidated rooms to drug dealers and prostitutes. According to Carreras, the Dallas Police Department received reports of crimes on the property for years, yet the Han Gil Hotel stayed in operation.

“Then some Coppell kids get out there, and they start overdosing,” Carreras said. “They’ve got parents who will go out there and try and find them, and that’s when the Coppell Police Department went

Carreras: “It doesn’t make it right, what they’re doing. I’m not saying what my guilty clients do is OK, … but I see how they got where they are.”

Beto O’Rourke Announces Run for Governor

Texas’ Top Legal Office Up for Grabs

Former U.S. Rep. Beto O’Rourke raised $2 million within 24 hours of announcing that he will seek the governor’s office next year. The tally still leaves him around $50 million behind his Republican opponent, Abbott, who has held the office since 2014.

The El Pasoan enters a race with national implications. Abbott’s administration and Republic state leaders recently wrapped up one of the most ideologically driven legislative sessions in state history.

Voter suppression laws, a ban on Critical Race Theory teachings in public schools, the elimination of gun permit requirements for bearing arms, and a controversial abortion ban top a long list of new state laws that have drawn federal lawsuits and national condemnation.

With the launch of his cross-state campaign effort, O’Rourke appears to be replicating the technique that came close but failed to unseat Sen. Ted Cruz in 2018.

Tarrant County voters narrowly voted in favor of O’Rourke, marking a political flip that was replicated in 2020’s presidential election.

O’Rourke enters a lone Democratic field while Abbott will face off against businessman and self-described “actual Republican” Don Huffines A recent poll by the Texas Hispanic Policy Foundation and Rice University found Abbott, with 43% support among all registered voters, led O’Rourke by one point. The poll did not include actor Matthew McConaughey, who has publicly voiced interest in running for governor.

Indicted State Attorney General Ken Paxton remains under investigation by the Texas Bar Association and the FBI, the former for his failed attempt to overturn the landslide electoral victory of President Joe Biden and the latter for allegedly doing favors for a wealthy donor. Despite the looming risk of disbarment and time in federal prison, the embattled attorney general is seeking reelection.

In March, Paxton will face off against Land Commissioner George P. Bush, selfdescribed “faithful conservative fighter” State Rep. Matt Krause (whose district includes much of Tarrant County and some of Fort Worth), and Eva Guzman, a former Texas Supreme Court justice.

Paxton, who was snubbed during Trump’s round of presidential pardons, is pinning his political fate on the former president.

“I am proud of my record standing up to and defeating the Biden Administration — repeatedly,” Paxton said in a recent public statement. “I stand by my record and values and ask each voter to join President Trump in standing with me for a safer and stronger Texas.”

The misleading use of “President” Trump is a reference to the “stolen election” of 2020, the conspiracy theory that Republicans like to hang on to out of some sense of mass delusion.

Civil rights attorney Lee Merritt is basing his Democratic bid for the office on voting rights and police reforms.

“Texas Republicans have launched an all-out assault on voter rights and civil lib-

erties,” Merritt said in a July public statement. Paxton and GOP leaders are “blatantly attempting to turn back progress in the Lone Star State by using the familiar tactics of voter suppression, divisive rhetoric, and corporate money.”

Two Democrats Vie for Open DA Position

The recent announcement that DA Sharen Wilson will not seek reelection in 2022 opens a path for reform-minded leadership at the county prosecutor’s office next year. As the nation moves away from criminalizing possession of small amounts of marijuana, Tarrant County continues to prosecute possession of the plant that is used to treat seizure disorders, chronic anxiety, and a wide range of ailments that would otherwise require potentially addictive prescription pills.

Longtime Tarrant County prosecutor Tiffany Burks is touting her experience in the office and her commitment to “rebuild the public’s trust in our criminal justice system.” Local attorney Albert Roberts, who failed to unseat Wilson four years ago and describes the current administration as “out of touch,” will face off against Burks in March’s Democratic primary. No Republican has filed to run for the office as of this week.

Tarrant County voters recently snubbed Wilson’s request for $160 million to build new prosecutor offices and to purchase new equipment. The vote of no confidence in her administration is likely one of several reasons why she will not seek reelection.

continued on page 6

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

“I wanted to put people in jail,” she said. “That’s what I thought I wanted to do with myself.”

After two years, Carreras made the switch to defense. Prosecutors spend more time in court, and she knew she would want to raise a family soon. She describes herself first and foremost as a mother.

She spends her mornings shuttling her three boys to three different schools.

She spends afternoons taking them to after-school activities. She wears charms of her sons’ initials (SRL) on a gold necklace that she said she rarely takes off.

Allenna Bangs, a chief prosecutor at the Tarrant County District Attorney’s office in the intimate partner violence division, remarked on Carreras’ devotion to her family.

Bangs has worked with her throughout her career and has faced her as opposing counsel several times. “While she’s excellent in her job, and she puts the time and effort in, she also has a whole life she centers in, which is what makes her so good at what she does. That’s what makes her so relatable.”

Carreras serves between 25 and 40 clients at any given moment. About half are appointed. The others are hired, she said.

Carreras has a knack for details.

Judge Mollee Westfall of the 371st District Court said she feels “very confident” when Carreras is on a case. Westfall described her as a “careful, thorough lawyer.”

Moving forward, Carreras said she wants to continue working on high-profile federal cases. She still takes smaller cases, however.

Cassandra and Michael Johnson met Carreras this year during a difficult time in their lives. Johnson was facing drug-related charges, and he also had a laundry list of ailments eating away at his health.

Carreras negotiated his sentence down to spending weekends in jail, allowing him to stay home to be with his family and tend to his health during the week.

“Whatever she did, she’s good,” Johnson said. “I praise everything she did for us. She’s a good person. She’s kind-hearted.”

Johnson checks in with Carreras every Thursday via text to update her on how they are doing.

Many of her former clients stay in touch, she said. Seeing the way people can change their lives pushes her forward.

“I want to help people do better, make better choices,” she said. “I think there is something to be said for redemption, and I think people deserve it. Looking through life through someone else’s eyes, that motivates me to do the best job I can do.” l

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out and contacted the feds. Nobody cared about this place until these rich kids started dying.”

When Carreras and Cofer took a look at all of the defendants (more than 20 were charged in the trials), they noticed a stark difference in how the young defendants from Coppell were treated compared to how their Black client Hill was treated.

Two defendants in particular, Madison Brekke and Karim Selim, received time served in exchange for their testimony.

“They were supposedly partners with my client doing the exact same thing, [dealing], with my client, supposedly, and they get one year credit for time served, and my client’s about to potentially serve life in prison,” Carreras said.

The two lawyers fashioned that discrepancy into the crux of their defense.

In her opening remarks at the April case, Carreras told jurors, “This case is a case about buying time and making deals — that’s what this case is about. Bryan Hill is not a conspirator and was not involved in the conspiracy at the Han Gil. Bryan Hill is an addict.”

The argument worked. The jury did not come to a consensus, resulting in a “hung trial,” which is rare, especially in a federal case. A mistrial ensued.

The case was tried again in June. This time Hill faced three charges: conspiracy, possession with intent to deliver, and drug distribution. He was found guilty of the first and third charges and not guilty of possession with intent to deliver. Hill will be sentenced in January.

When Carreras spoke about Hill, a smile crossed her face. She said their relationship has been challenging but that she enjoys representing him. Hill is very smart, she said. He fought in Iraq and came back from combat burdened by PTSD. This led to drug use, which led to a series of decisions that brought him to the Han Gil Hotel.

“We all make mistakes,” she said.

“Some of us make real bad terrible mistakes and bad decisions constantly, but, you know, when you look back and see their life and you see their history you go, ‘Oh, wait.’ It doesn’t make it right, what they’re doing. I’m not saying what my guilty clients do is OK, … but I see how they got where they are.”

The bilingual Fort Worth defense attorney has risen to prominence recently. Since becoming board certified in 2018 (an accomplishment held by about 7% of Texas lawyers), she takes on more federal cases. Just last year, she opened Carreras Law Group.

She began her career as a prosecutor.

After graduating from Texas Wesleyan University law school, she worked as the assistant district attorney of Rockwall County.

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Fort Worth Redistricting Nearing Finalization

To accommodate a population pushing 1 million, Fort Worth leaders are in the process of adding two new districts to the current eight. The mayor is a voting member of the city council, meaning that the total council size will grow from nine to 11 once the new map is adopted in February.

After seeking submissions from the general public, the city council-appointed Redistricting Task Force is currently reviewing 18 submissions from civic groups and individuals and one that was jointly submitted by councilmembers Cary Moon, Chris Nettles, and Jared Williams. The maps will be evaluated based on several criteria that the task force adopted earlier this year.

One member of Citizens for Independent Redistricting Fort Worth, the volunteer group that advocates for a citizen-led redistricting effort, told us that the city’s mapping software was a “real bear” to use.

The onerous process left some citizens frustrated with what is supposed to be an open and transparent process, we were told. Assistant city manager Fernando Costa told us that the entire process has been conducted openly and with ample public notice.

Locals have one more chance to give input on the submitted maps by attending the redistricting task force’s public meeting on Wed, Dec 8, at 1000 Throckmorton St. Details about the redistricting process can be found at FortWorthTexas.gov/Government/Redistricting.

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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Arlington School District Hides Emails Following Controversial Vote

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Fridays through February 4 from 5 to 8:30 pm Executive Chef Jett Mora welcomes you with warm hospitality, creative cuisine, and a seasonal menu rooted in Texas ingredients.

Create your own holiday memories on Friday nights at Café Modern.

Seating is available from 5 to 8:30 pm. For reservations, call 817.840.2157.

The Modern trees will be illuminated with an array of festive lights in celebration of the holiday season. The museum galleries are open for FREE until 8 pm on Fridays.

Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth 3200 Darnell Street Fort Worth, Texas 76107 817.738.9215

Starting January, Arlington school district will partner with Linebarger, Goggan, Blair, and Sampson, a prominent national firm, to collect delinquent property taxes. Linebarger partners donated around $15,000 to Arlington school district’s board members in the past few years with many donations coming in recent months.

The transactional relationship between the donations and contract award prompted our paper to submit several open records requests for copies of emails and other communications between Linebarger lawyers and school administrators and board members.

Arlington school district is paying a local law firm to appeal our request to the attorney general claiming that our requests are exempted from disclosure through legal caveats outlined in the Texas Public Information Act. The documents are not privileged attorney-client communications, and we expect the AG to rule accordingly.

City Officials Crack Down on Pharmacy Fraud

The city of Fort Worth recently suspended 17 pharmacies from billing the city’s health plan after evidence of fraud came to light.

Cutting down on fraudulent billing has saved taxpayers $844,675 to date, according to a public statement by the city. SmartLight

C o u r t e s y o f Fa c e b o o k

Dinner with the Modern Lights

Static

Beto O’Rourke is betting that his signature barnstorming approach to campaigning will land him in the governor’s office late next year.

Analytics partnered with the city to identify false claims and fake prescriptions.

“The patterns indicating abusive billing were clear,” said Asha George, SmartLight Analytics’ CEO. “Members were being prescribed broadly available creams and ointments by physicians that they hadn’t seen, and the prescriptions were filled at pharmacies hundreds of miles away from their home.”

The head of the city’s human resources department said that, despite regulations aimed at ending prescription fraud, the health care system is still like the Wild West at times.

West 7th Construction on Track to End Early 2022

Normally congested traffic along West 7th Street has been further slowed by a slew of construction projects that are 35% completed. The repair and resurfacing of Foch Street between Crockett Street and Farrington Field were completed in June. The ongoing projects include the construction of landscaped medians and bike lanes from University Drive to the West 7th Bridge. The construction project, which will be completed in May, will balance “the needs of the vehicle user, transit user, pedestrian, bicycle user, and others,” according to the city.

Liberty Lounge Supporting Unhoused Populations

To support Fort Worth’s underserved 76104 community, the owner of Liberty Lounge (515 S. Jennings Ave., 817-808-7158) is welcoming unhoused and unemployed folks to the Near Southside bar on Thursday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. for an event that will provide free food, clothes, showers, and on-site job interviews with KP Staffing.

“We are aware that so many of our homeless population might have addiction issues, so the bar will be closed,” proprietor Jenna Hill-Higgs told us about the morning event. “This is for anybody who has had a hard time.”

Starting 6 p.m. that day, the bar will reopen, and anyone is welcome to join Hill-Higgs for a community potluck dubbed Thanksgiving Together. #BigLoveJenna l

J A M E S

Bonnell was working downtown at one of his restaurants when a BLM march crossed by. Instead of cowering, he joined them. Like 93% of BLM marches across the country, the ones in Fort Worth were peaceful.

Cour tesy Instagram

n October, Chef Jon Bonnell celebrated 20 years as head honcho of Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine (4259 Bryant Irvin Rd., 817-738-5489) by throwing a party with bespoke wines and as much shrimp-and-cheese grits, brisket, and dainty single-bite Key lime pies as his friends, family, and admirers could eat. Twenty years ago, the former middle school math and science teacher had recently gotten married, celebrated his 31st birthday, and was a mere three years post-culinary school.

“We hit the market at a time when there was room for us,” Bonnell said. “We did a lot of things right and a lot of things wrong.”

In addition to the other opening day jitters and the sluggish post-9/11 economy, the predictably unpredictable Texas weather threw the grand opening for a loop with a power outage.

One of the reasons Bonnell’s proved so popular was the location: outside

After surviving a tornado, a location change, and the pandemic, Reata and its elevated cowboy cuisine is still a destination downtown.

unique kinds of home-cooking (Mexican and Jewish, respectively) in the (original) roaring ’20s, and Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Restaurant (2201 N. Commerce St., 817626-4356) had seating capacity for only 16 in the 1930s.

Legend has it that calf fries, a.k.a.

Rocky Mountain oysters, were invented at the original Riscky’s Steakhouse –– the doors of the restaurant at 120 Exchange Ave. (817-624-4800) also opened in the ’30s.

Barbecue moved away from the Stockyards when Angelo George opened his eponymously named eatery (2533 White Settlement Rd., 817-332-0357) in 1958. In 1968, Mama’s Pizza (multiple locations) opened near Texas Wesleyan University, and there are still locations in Fort Worth, Arlington, and Mansfield if you like New York-style pizza and eschew the well-done crust and gloopy center of trendier Neapolitan-style pizzerias.

Drew’s Place (5701 Curzon Ave., 817-7354408) has been serving some of the best down-home comfort food you’ll ever find for 34 years, and Michael’s Cuisine (3413 W. 7th St., 817-877-3413) was dishing out experimental Southwestern fare before Bonnell even began his second career as a chef. I have fond memories of the quirky chipotle meatballs on an early-ina-relationship date, although I no longer remember who that particular suitor was.

Before Dayne’s Craft BBQ (2735 5th St., 682-472-181), Goldee’s BBQ (4645 Dick Price Rd., Kennedale, 817-4804131), Hurtado Barbecue (205 E. Front St.,

Arlington, 682-323-4151), Panther City BBQ (201 E. Hattie St., 682-499-5618), and Smok-a-Holics (1417 Evans Ave., 817386-5658) cracked Texas Monthly’s 2021 Top 50 barbecue Joints in Texas, there was Railhead Smokehouse (2900 Montgomery St., 817-738-9808), celebrating 35 years in 2021. Their smoked half-chicken and barbecue sauce are the best here or anywhere –– and I will fight you on that.

Although special props are due to Goldee’s young-gun owner-operators Jalen Heard, Nupohn Inthanousay, Lane Milne, Dylan Taylor, and Johnny White –– hitting it as the Monthly’s best barbecue restaurant in Texas the first year out is epic, and doing so in spite of a pandemic is the stuff of legend.

It’s worth a moment to consider that two of the Fort’s longest-tenured food establishments, Roy Pope Grocery & Market (2300 Merrick St., 817-7322863) and Paris Coffee Shop (704 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-335-2041), would have permanently closed this year if not for Lou Lambert and his team. Lambert, who grew up on his father’s Fort Worth stories, says he had no real desire to own a grocery store until he realized Roy Pope was like the neighborhood bodegas he’d grown to love during his time in New York and San Francisco.

“Dad used to have a meal at Paris Café every Saturday with a group of his TCU buddies,” Lambert said.

Despite what he calls “a giant learning curve,” he’s gently modernizing continued on page 8

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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Led by Jon Bonnell, who’s celebrating a milestone few other fine dining restos have surpassed, Fort Worth’s established eats scene seems to be surging, despite economic worry and social problems.

C o u r t e s y w w w. w a t e r s t e x a s . c o m

Staying Power

of downtown on the west side of the Fort, with easy access to those traveling westbound from Arlington and eastbound from Parker County.

“I went to great lengths to detail a business plan, and nothing worked out the way I thought,” Bonnell said with a laugh.

“There were times we did really well, but in the second year, we were in trouble. For the first year, everyone was going to the new place. Then we had about two years of lackluster sales.”

The Bonnell empire, officially Bonnell’s Restaurant Group, now includes four restaurants. In addition to the fine dining establishment, Buffalo Bros Pizza, Wings & Subs (3015 S. University Dr., 817-386-9601) opened in 2008, the seafood restaurant Bonnell’s Waters (301 Main St., 817-984-1110) opened in 2013, and a second Buffalo Bros opened downtown (415 Throckmorton St., 817- 887-9533) in 2019. A fifth casual burgers-and-beers concept is set to open soon.

Here at the Weekly, we have episodically chronicled those restaurants with staying power in our Eats section.

Despite the seemingly endless revolving doors in Sundance Square, West 7th/ Crockett Row, and Waterside, some of our town’s best stories have happened in the restaurants that are nearing the century mark or have come close to a half-century.

Someone in our stable of Eats writers routinely covers Bonnell every couple of years, mainly because he produces a book or a new restaurant about that often, but Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine is a mere sweet summer child when compared to other local landmark eateries. While we might not spotlight those as often as we ought to, a restaurant that withstands the attention-span-of-a-gnat foodie blogosphere for two, three, or more decades should also be celebrated.

The Original Mexican Eats Café (4713 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-738-6226) and Carshon’s Delicatessen (3133 Cleburne Rd., 817-923-1907) began slinging their

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Feature

Gabriel Deleon has a background similar to Bonnell’s –– culinary school, then traveling while working for other chefs, then opening a restaurant that serves food he’s passionate about. In DeLeon’s case, the food is the cuisine traditional to Mexico City, with a stop in Santa Fe. Even though the restaurants in my meander through Eatin’ Pants Lane are memorable, none are fine dining establishments. For the Fort Worth restaurant scene to compete with our neighbors to the east, the town requires higher-end non-chain restaurants to keep conventioneer and anniversary celebration dollars right here in the 817. We need the kinds of white-tablecloth service and menu that Bonnell’s provides.

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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the two landmarks. Roy Pope took 13 months to reopen, and Paris just closed for a massive facelift, hopefully to open back up early next spring. Lambert said he’s already been told by a group of Fort Worth old-timers that he better not screw this up. With respect to those folks with opinions — Fort Worth foodies are brutal when it comes to the tried-and-true joints our parents and grandparents loved — Lambert and company’s massive breath of fresh air is absolutely needed if those eateries are to survive in this decade.

Also of note, Spiral Diner (1314 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-332-8834) turns 20 next year. Cowtown’s first solely vegan restaurant was founded by Amy McNutt, who gambled that those Fort Worth diners wanted to try vegan hot dogs, Frito pies, nachos, and mac ’n’ cheese at least once.

Nonna Tata (1400 W. Magnolia Ave., 817332-0250) celebrates 15 years of bringing a little bit of Italy to Fort Worth this year.

Owner Donatella Trotti crashed the longtime boys’ club of restaurateurs by tapping into the city’s hunger for Italian food that didn’t come with unlimited soup, salad, or breadsticks, and Executive Chef Molly McCook has won consistent acclaim for Ellerbe Fine Foods (1501 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-926-3663) over the last 12 years.

Her elegant, beautiful resto sits just up the block from Nonna Tata, and McCook

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Laurie James

continued from page 7

Named after a Weekly headline, Hurtado’s rallying cry makes a lot of sense.

has been praised by the Weekly, foodie mogul Rachael Ray, Texas Monthly, and the prestigious James Beard Foundation, among others. McCook was a 2020 Beard Foundation semifinalist.

I could go on, but the Weekly’s electronic archives go back to only about 2004, and my memory gets spotty before then. I am also restraining from a Chow, Baby-style rant about why good restaurants go out of business (but it’s an absolute shanda that Fred’s Texas Café, which predates Bonnell’s and everything in and around Crockett Row, has to leave

the flagship location in December). The surviving non-chain restaurants from 2010 or thereabouts that made it through the last decade include Cat City Grill (1208 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-916-5333), Magnolia Motor Lounge (3005 Morton St., 817-3323344), Salsa Limon (multiple locations), and a duo of Felipe Armenta-concepted restaurants, The Tavern (2755 S. Hulen St., 817-923-6200) and Pacific Table (1600 S. University Dr., 871-887-9995). The sublime Mi Dia from Scratch (1295 S. Main St., Grapevine, 817-421-4747) also celebrated 10 years in early October. Chef

When I moved back to Tarrant County in 2004, there were only a handful of fancy dining choices. Saint-Emilion (3617 W 7th St, 817-737-2781) was a perpetual anniversary celebration restaurant and, for a long time, the field of one winner for the Weekly’s Best of French food. The restaurant’s location in what would become known as our Cultural District made it one of the city’s best kept dining secrets.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse (812 Main St., 817-877-3999) held up one end of Fort Worth’s barely redeveloping continued on page 9

...because people talk to you in the morning.

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downtown by the Convention Center, and Reata Restaurant (310 Houston St., 817-336-1009) was ensconced in the old Caravan of Dreams on the other end. Reata started up in the old Bank One Tower in 1996, so 2021 is the silver anniversary for restaurant president Mike Micallef and company. Reata survived a tornado, a location change, and the departure of half a dozen chefs (many of whom went on to find acclaim on their own). One of the reasons for the success of the upscale cowboy cuisine restaurant is location, Micallef said.

“When you were in downtown Fort Worth [in the early aughts], there were just private clubs where people could have a nice dinner,” he said. “There weren’t restaurants where people could just walk in.”

Good luck just walking into Reata at this point without a reservation, especially on TCU home game weekends. (Micallef is a TCU grad.) Even a freak Texas tornado couldn’t stop them.

“The 2000 tornado closed us for 42 days,” Micallef said. “We reopened, then left in January 2001.”

Between the closure caused by one of the worst weather events Fort Worth has ever seen and the move to what is now the edge of Sundance Square, Micallef and crew refined the Reata catering department, which would become a critical factor in Reata’s surviving the 2020 pandemic.

Although COVID restaurant closures in 2020 essentially halted fine dining in town, it wasn’t the first time Fort Worth had a contracture to the high-end dining scene. During the economic crash in 2009, things paused for those who have specialty businesses –– and two-margarita lunches became a thing of the past, according to Micallef.

“In 2009, group lunches and lunches for people traveling for business decelerated, but the special events kept up,” he said.

A key difference in the then-and-now realities of running a fine dining restaurant was that 12 years ago, the supply chain wasn’t an issue.

“With COVID came restrictions in both facilities and the supply chain,”

suppliers could provide. The break in the supply line proved challenging.

“Food, ingredients, and recipes dominate my thoughts, but that didn’t make a difference in the pandemic,” he said. “We needed to feed the highest amount of people for the lowest price point.”

In addition to the supply chain, menus were limited to the size of the refrigerators in the restaurants’ kitchens.

Thompson said that at Michael’s, the hardest thing about the supply squeeze was rotating the inventory. Instead of a set menu, Thompson offered a pareddown bill of fare, rotating between a few favorite dishes. And every week, he said, people would be disappointed because they invariably wanted what was available the week before.

One thing that proved fruitful was the ability to continue to sell alcohol.

“The alcohol-to-go lifeline from the governor really helped,” Bonnell said.

For Reata’s pandemic pivot, Reata on the Road brought set-menu meals for four to outlying locations, including Aledo, Benbrook, and various Fort Worth neighborhoods.

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

continued from page 8

Bonnell’s new book takes a look at life inside the pandemic from a local chef and business owner.

FO R T WO R T H W E E K LY

Feature

Cour tesy Amazon.com

Cour tesy Instagram

To survive and help during the pandemic, Reata Restaurant took to the road.

Micallef said. “Cattle didn’t disappear, but the ability to process them did.”

Michael Thompson’s eponymously named restaurant survived that tornado, the same economic contracture, and the wretched West 7th Street construction when Montgomery Street closed as well.

“As scary and as terrible as the COVID lockdown was, we’ve been through worse,” Thompson said.

Bonnell’s, like Reata and Michael’s, survived the 2020 shuttering of inrestaurant dining due in part to the chef ’s/ owners’ respective willingness to swivel out of the models that served them so well.

“The city didn’t need fine dining in a crisis,” Bonnell said.

Nobody in the industry knew how long sit-down dining would starve after the restaurants closed due to COVID in March.

Bonnell’s shut down on a Wednesday and opened back up the following Saturday with six staff, including Bonnell and wife Melinda Bonnell. The campaign literally came from the chef ’s Facebook page –– every morning, Bonnell posted a “Hello, Quarantinis” message listing the daily menu. It was a pre-packed take-it-or-leaveit meal for four, which came refrigerated with heating instructions and was delivered literally on the side of the road.

“It was an absolute mess the first day,” Bonnell said. “We served 400 people and the line of cars stretched back to Hulen Street on the access road from Bryant Irvin Road, two hours long.”

Meals included King Ranch casserole, shrimp and grits, brisket, chicken-fried steak, fried chicken, and pasta dishes.

At first the food was whatever was in the refrigerator.

“Eggs, fish, and steaks,” Bonnell said.

“Anything that was going to go bad.”

Bonnell and other high-end restaurateurs had been used to the luxury of planning meals around what foods were seasonally available and what his local

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Feature

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“Our catering crew had the idea about hot spots –– pre-selling family meals for four and then delivering them,” Micallef said.

Reata on the Road charged $49 for the meals and gave $10 back to local charities like school athletic programs, which were also financially strapped because of the pandemic. Reata on the Road made the Wall Street Journal last December, when the paper wrote about how fine dining restaurants had pivoted.

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Bonnell and Micallef are not alone two decades in –– there are several other chef/owners in town who’ve turned one restaurant into an inland empire. Tim Love, a chef at Reata when the tornado closed the kitchens, took some of the uptown cowboy cuisine ideology and opened Lonesome Dove Bistro (2406 N. Main St., 817-740-8810), arguably the first fine dining place in the Stockyards, in 2000. Love now owns 14 restaurants from here to Houston and Tennessee. He’s had only one spectacular failure –– Lonesome Dove’s New York outpost flopped within a year, and opinion runs 50/50 whether we in Fort Worth care about what they think in Manhattan. Love Style Inc. has learned

a few lessons, and apparently some of those are from Reata: Former Reata chefs Brian Olenjack and Andrew Dilda are both now working for Love. Love Tim or hate him, it’s hard to argue with 14 successful restaurants, all of varying price points.

Felipe Armenta, who’s a lot less of a press guy than either Bonnell or Love, has also quietly, successfully operated half a dozen restaurants with his partners, including the previously mentioned Tavern and Pacific Table. Maria’s Mexican Kitchen (1712 S. University Dr., 817916-0550) is named for his mama, and there’s Press Café (4801 Edwards Ranch Rd., 817-570-6002) and the newest in Armenta’s family, Towne Grill (9365 Rain

Lily Tr., 817-916-0390). His only misstep was the demise of the wonderful Cork & Pig Tavern, a victim of the ill mojo of that corner of Crockett Row. Armente’s big COVID pivot was into ViraTech, a sanitation company that developed a relatively nontoxic way to rid restaurant surfaces of viruses, bacteria, and fungi.

So if he doesn’t own the oldest or the most restaurants, and if he doesn’t sell mayonnaise in magazines, why is Bonnell so significant? Perhaps it’s his substantial contribution to local charities –– he chairs or chefs for a number of food-related and non-food-related fundraisers every year. Perhaps it’s the fact that his food is consistently good –– and no recipe is a secret. If you like what you ate, email him, and he’ll send you the recipe. Maybe it’s his civic-minded devotion to his hometown –– the man relentlessly promotes other restaurants on his social media, and while that makes him a hero, it also has made him a target.

Embedded in COVID during the summer of 2020, George Floyd, who was Black, was killed by a white police officer, and the world tilted a little. Downtown Fort Worth, like many cities, became a hot spot for marchers who were protesting inequality in policing, with ample reason.

As of this writing, the former Fort Worth police officer who fatally shot Atatiana Jefferson in her family home has not gone to trial, although a date has been set for January 2022. Some of that marching cut right through downtown and right into the time when restaurants were reopened at 50% capacity. There were bullhorns, and the mostly white patrons got nervous.

“The protesters came onto the patio [at Waters], which they had every right to do,” Bonnell said. “I got called out to the front as a community leader to get [the protesters’] message to the mayor.”

Bonnell didn’t hide in the kitchen or lean on the police department presence already in downtown. Video shows a visibly emotional Bonnell on the restaurant’s street front, speaking to and embracing one of the protest leaders. The next night, Bonnell had cold water and signs supporting the protesters. In 20 years, Bonnell has never truly faltered.

He’s not chasing women (unless they’re passing him in one of the triathlons in which he participates), and he didn’t allegedly buy a fancy sports car in the middle of the pandemic with money that should have gone to beleaguered staff. So raise a glass to Jon Bonnell –– and as long as we’re toasting, to Brandon Hurtado, Lou Lambert, Molly McCook, Michael Thompson, Donatella Trotti, the young men from Goldee’s, and anyone else brave or foolish enough to open a restaurant, fine dining or otherwise. We’ll see what the class of 2021 looks like 20 years in. l

“A roaring, wondrous whirlpool of a show”

Promotional support provided by

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

This exhibition is organized by Tate Britain in association with the Kimbell Art Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. The exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities and by the Texas Commission on the Arts and the Fort Worth Tourism Public Improvement District.

FO R T WO R T H W E E K LY

October 17, 2021–February 6, 2022

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– The Guardian

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Southlake always struck me as an unnaturally homogenous bastion of white, wealthy families. Growing up in Lewisville, a middle- to lower middle-class suburb just northeast of Southlake, I was keenly aware of how my hometown ranked among the neighboring municipalities.

In 2008 and shortly after graduating college, I worked in and around the wealthy suburb, setting up my digital piano in daycare centers to teach students in Grapevine, Keller, and tony Southlake.

I remember how Southlake Boulevard boasted what seemed like an unusually high number of plastic surgery centers and how bright, shiny luxury cars were the norm.

Few people who were intimately familiar with Southlake were surprised to learn about the racist chanting by Carroll high school students in 2018.

The video of white teenagers yelling the n-word went viral and put a national spotlight on the suburb. Misinformation campaigns by wealthy Southlake parents and politicians claimed that subsequent reform efforts were “Marxist” ploys to force white children to feel guilty about “overblown” accusations of racism.

That sordid story is told through NBC News’ Southlake, the six-part podcast currently on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Amazon Music, and other platforms. NBC News reporters Mike Hixenbaugh and Antonia Hylton unpack

Cour tesy of NBC News

DEC 2-24

NBC News’ deep dive into Southlake culture and politics is both tantalizing and informative.

a complicated and multilayered story through interviews, leaked recordings, and narration that lend insight and context to the right-wing effort to push back on LGBTQ+ inclusion and racial equity.

“Just a Word” takes listeners to 2018 and the days following the viral videos of Carroll students chanting the n-word.

“Racism exists, and we have to name it,” then-mayor Laura Hill said publicly at the time.

The initial public support for addressing the problem began to dwindle following the nationwide uproar over the murder of George Floyd in May 2020 and the ensuing Black-led protests across the country. In Southlake, the blowback targeted Carroll school district’s Cultural Competence Action Plan (CCAP), which was drafted over 18 months by a volunteer district diversity council. By late 2020, conservatives were buying into conspiracy theories over Critical Race Theory, the complicated theoretical framework that scholars use to understand how public policy and other aspects of civic life are influenced by systemic racism. Many conservative parents in Southlake believe CRT is a leftist effort to codify white guilt into school policies, among other baseless ideas.

The NBC reporters reached out to Christopher Rufo, the Republican activist who is widely credited with creating the conspiracy that Americans are being indoctrinated in CRT teachings.

In a statement, Rufo told the reporters that his goal was to turn CRT into a “national brand, giving American conservatives a new frame for understanding what is happening around them. This makes it easier for conservatives to push back on anti-racism programs without getting into the details” by providing a central point of attack.

Conservative Southlake parents

used a several-years-old PAC, Southlake Families, to raise funds to further their right-wing agenda. Supporters of Southlake Families refused to speak to NBC News, but a leaked audio recording revealed the ideology that fuels the PAC’s efforts. An anonymous candidate who was purportedly seeking Southlake Families’ support spoke with Leigh Wambsganss, one of the PAC’s founding members.

“Who did you vote for in the 2020 Presidential Election?” Wambsganss asked. “Do you support Black Lives Matter? Would you support Planned Parenthood coming to Southlake?”

One Southlake Families member asked the candidate if he or she would commit to never appointing a Democrat to serve on advisory boards or committees.

The podcast series unfolds largely chronologically, with the fifth episode covering the May school board elections that brought Southlake Families-backed Cam Bryan and Hannah Smith to the school board. Recent news that the U.S. Department of Education’s enforcement arm is looking into potential student civil rights violations at Carroll school district suggests that Southlake’s efforts to push back on racial equity may have backfired.

It is evident that Hixenbaugh and Hylton sought to present both sides of the Southlake story, and the refusal of members of Southlake Families to speak to the reporters was odd but not unexpected.

What listeners are left with is a thoroughly researched long-form news story that is presented with impeccable sound design, a beat-driven soundtrack, and important details that are often left out of news bites. For North Texans who want to learn why this tony suburb has garnered national attention, there may be no better resource than NBC News’ newest podcast. l

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Welman has a shop that is open to the public and fully stocked with discount arts and crafts supplies, handmade items by local reuse artists, vintage books, and more. (The green-oriented organization even offers sustainable packaging and has a Go Green Gifty Workshop coming up on Sat, Dec 11. For details, visit Facebook. com/TheWelmanProject.)

Consider doing some of your holiday shopping at the Welman Community Shop (3950 W Vickery Blvd, 817-924-4000) this Black Friday from noon to 6pm or this Small Business Saturday from 9am to 6pm.

Doing so is sure to keep you off Santa’s naughty list. #DoGood

By Jennifer Bovee

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

supplies. With the year closing out soon, it’s time to make that tax-deductible donation if you’re going to. Be it financial support or extra Sharpies, the best place to start the donation process is at TheWelmanProject.org/GiveStuff.html.

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You never know what you’ll find when you #ShopLocal at Welman Community Shop.

FO R T WO R T H W E E K LY

Long before American Express made Small Business Saturday an official part of our annual holiday shopping traditions in 2010, Fort Worth Weekly-ians were already supporting local, independent businesses. Making it official just meant that soccer moms would be joining the fun. So much the better. Their money is just as green!

As small businesses go, you can’t get much better than Doc’s Records & Vintage (2628 Weisenberger St, 817-7325455) in the Foundry District. Almost every September, they win the critic’s choice, readers’ choice, or both for Best Record Store or Best Place to Buy Antiques. The readers are rarely wrong.

The critics? Well, that’s a story for another time. From noon to 4pm Sat, check things out for yourself. Stop by for Doc’s Local Music Showcase & Vintage Flea Market, with Digimechanoid, Pollen, Yaz Mean, and Kitbashes.

Along with the general assortment of hard-to-find vinyl and vintage items normally in stock, vintage dealers will also have booths set up in the courtyard.

There will be complimentary beer and musical performances to entertain you while you shop.

Not far from the Foundry District is a dining-shopping-hanging-out oasis known as Race Street chock-full of independent businesses. Once a month, the street is blocked off for pop-up events.

For November, the date uncoincidentally coincides with Small Business Saturday.

From 4pm to 9pm, Creatively Beaut Goods (2900 Race St, Ste 164, @ CreativelyBeautGoodsCBG) — a boutique that sells “modern boho”-styled accessories, handmade jewelry, hats, and vintage clothing — is hosting its CBG Outdoor Market. Along with its own items, CBG will have a selection of goods from local artisans and vendors. There will be music by DJ Bilal, and when you get hungry, wander over to La Onda (2905 Race St, 817-607-8605) or Tributary Cafe (2813 Race St, 817-832-0823), which are right across the street.

Local nonprofit the Welman Project is a great place for giving and getting, too.

Wellman specializes in helping teachers by connecting them with donated office

“Best Cockta ils To-Go” -FWW, Best Of 2020 “Best Marg aritas” -FWW, Best Of 2021

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unlikely television sensation.” Tickets are $7-10 at TheModern.org/Reel-People.

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Higher Purpose Emporium (505 W Northside Dr, 682-207-5351) — Best Saturday Of 2021 winner for Best Metaphysical Shop — is celebrating Small Business Saturday in a unique way. While shopping for the metaphysical enthusiast, pagan, spiritualist, or witch in your life, you can enjoy a tarot card reading, games, and door prizes from noon to 8pm.

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See It’s a Wonderful Life in Grapevine Mon. (Spoiler alert: There’s a swimming pool under that floor.)

Every Thanksgiving, I watch The Waltz, the 1978 Scorsese-directed film of Wednesday The Band’s final concert that was filmed over, you know, Thanksgiving. As an Arlington resident, I may break that tradition and instead head to Tanstaafl Pub in Pantego (409 N Bowen Rd, 817-460-9506) to watch local musicians cover the material live at 9pm. The pub’s free There’s No Such Thing as a Last Waltz event has been going on annually for nine years now, so I think it’s time I showed up.

Come with?

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After your turkey dinner, grab your drumsticks — the inedible kind — and Thursday head to Lola’s Trailer Park (2735 W 5th St, 817-7599100) for the Thanksgiving edition of its weekly blues jam with Playtown and special guest Jerry Clark. The event starts at 7pm, and there’s no cover. Musicians just sign up to play upon arrival, and when it’s their turn to jam, they hit the glorious outdoor stage and do their thing. Delicias De Guerro Food Truck will be serving up nachos, quesadillas, tacos, and tortas when you’re hungry again but done talking turkey.

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At 4pm, 6pm, or 8pm today, 5pm Sat, or at noon, 2pm, or 4pm Sun, catch Friday one of the final showings of Julia at the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth (3200 Darnell St, 817-738-9215) as part of the museum’s Magnolia at the Modern film series. The movie uses archival footage, first-person narratives, food cinematography, and personal photos to tell the story of Chef Julia Child, from publishing the bestseller Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961) to her “empowering story of a woman who found fame in her 50s and her calling as an

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Cour tesy IMBd

NIGHT&DAY

From 11am to 2pm, head to Gemelle (4400 White Settlement Rd, 817-732Sunday 9535) for Gospel Sunday Brunch in the outdoor herb garden and courtyard, featuring live music by Sheran Goodspeed Keyton and the Joe Rogers Trio. Call for a reservation. To view the breakfast and lunch selections available, visit GemelleFTW.com/#menu.

Watch as dear old Clarence gets his wings at the screening of the Monday classic holiday film It’s a Wonderful Life at 7pm at the Palace Theatre inside the Palace Arts Center (300 S Main St, Grapevine, 817-410-3100). Do you have a case of the Mondays? Other screening dates are available, including Thu, Dec 9; Mon, Dec 20; and Wed, Dec 22. Tickets are $60 at GrapevineTexasUSA.com. (Note: This is a screening of the black-and-white version. As it should be, you heathens.)

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Daily thru Sun, Dec 23 (10am-6pm Mon-Sat and 1pm-5pm Sun), visit the Tuesday Happy Holiday Pop-Up Shop at Simply Divune Cafe (2230 W Park Row Dr, Pantego, 817-962-7121) sponsored

by Shop Pantego and the 817ArtAlliance.

Find gifts from local artisans selling art, jewelry, pottery, and more. (In case you come hungry, Simply Divune specializes in Southern cooking and has lots of dinein and take-out options.)

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continued on page 21

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As Fort Worth — and every other COVID-worn American city — continues to face economic uncertainty, especially in the restaurant business, demand for the concept is booming. The model allows operators to meet new consumer expectations, reduce operational costs, and provide easy menu expansion. Euromonitor, a market research firm in London, predicts ghost kitchens will be a $1 trillion industry in the next 10 years.

Like so many trends, the ghost kitchen craze that has captivated diners on the coasts still hasn’t found a foothold in sleepy Cowtown. There are a couple of local trailblazers, most notably Lanny Lancarte, owner/chef of haute-healthy Westside staple Righteous Foods.

The Joe T.’s heir apparent launched Eat Fajitas around the time the ’rona reached our shores. That simple, elegant concept of upscale-ish fajitas worked out of Righteous Foods’ kitchen. Celebri-chef Tim Love countered with a Mexican food ghost kitchen of his own, Burritos, Fajitas and ’Ritas, and it looked liked the trend had finally arrived in earnest. It would take another year for the next serious ghost kitchen to appear out of the ether, and it was once again Lancarte who authored the menu.

Fantasma Kitchens, set in a former Methodist church on the North Side, will house three different scratch-made concepts, including Eat Fajitas, along with a fried or al carbon[-]style chicken concept, El Pollo Tocayo, and an Italian-meetsMexico concept with in-house rolled pasta, handmade pizza, and salads, Pizza Zapasta, which just recently launched.

The menu is a decidedly Latin-inspired take on Italian staples, with offerings such as the barbacoa and fennel pie or esquites (Mexican corn) con flor de calabaza, topped with Cotija cheese, esquites, poblano rajas, squash blossoms, and other toppings. There are impressive menus of house-made pastas, signature salads, desserts, and spirits. All pizzas are available on floppy/fold-y New York-style crust (La Flaca) or the denser, airier Detroit-style (El Gordo). In addition to the chef-imagined signature pies, topping snobs can choose their own adventures from an impressive variety of ingredients, ranging from traditional to exotic.

On a recent cool weekend evening at the homestead, my family of five opted for

an ambitious order that included a duo of salads, one pasta, and a few pizzas — and we ate for days.

The greens selection is perhaps a nod to Lancarte’s healthier than thou flagship eatery in that both of the ones we ordered featured a garden’s worth of veggies and a delicious, simple vinaigrette.

The chopped offering, with avocado, grilled corn, heirloom cherry tomatoes, chopped pepperoncini, queso Cojita, and Tuscan kale, all topped with house-made croutons and a tomato vinaigrette, was a triumphant amalgam of balance, colors, and fresh-tasting flavors.

Though a little more straightforward, the mixed baby greens salad was punctuated by the nutty, gritty grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and the sweetness of the candied walnuts. A simple balsamic vinaigrette played an important supporting role but allowed the more stylish ingredients to soak up the spotlight.

As a rule, any time I can order gnocchi in this town, I jump. Lancarte’s version, a gnocchi sardi Veracruzana — a traditional tomato-based sauce with Spanish roots — was the star of our dinner. The delicate, melt-in-your-mouth pasta footballs were tastefully tossed with capers, Castelvetrano olives, and more Parmigiano-Reggiano. It was the lone dish that didn’t survive the night.

The pizza I was most excited to try was the Queso Nuevo, a south-of-the-border take on a supercharged cheese pizza with fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, provolone, and ricotta, along with basil and a pesto drizzle. While that pie, served on New York-style crust, was a superior entree, the Spicy Chupacabras was the most impressive.

It was loaded with goat and beef salamis, cilantro, Calabrian peppers, and goat, mozzarella, and provolone cheeses, with plenty of red onions. Due to user error on Pizza Zapasta’s website, we ordered one on each of the two crusts — luckily, both were excellent, though I preferred the New York-style.

Every morsel was packed in specially designed cardboard packaging, and both the pizza and pasta arrived still hot. Fantasma uses its own drivers, so you can’t order on predatory third-party apps like Favor or Uber Eats.

Lancarte is two for two on his ghost kitchen concepts, so we’re at least trending in the right direction — if slowly. l

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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MUSIC April Bond’s Invocation of the Divine On her fifth album, the spiritual singersongwriter uses eight devotional mantras to help bring balance to the world and to herself.

B Y

P A T R I C K

H I G G I N S

ego, salvation against damnation — these ideas form the roots of humankind’s philosophical reasoning around “self.”

In ancient Vedic thought (the philosophy that transitioned into the modern Hindu religion), there is much consideration given to the duality between the masculine and feminine forms of “the Divine.” The masculine form is rigid and direct, the feminine fluid and dynamic. It is thought that an imbalance between these two expressions that exist within each of us can cause problems in our lives or, on a larger scale, in society as a whole.

This theme of the Vedic concept of bicameral divinity, with a special focus on the “Divine Feminine,” is the inspiration behind singer-songwriter April Bond’s new album.

“To make peace with the feminine, one has to be willing to go with the flow, to allow unpredictability,” Bond explained.

“In our society, this is devalued, feared, and suppressed, and I found within myself an authoritarian style of self-regulation that was limiting my ability to evolve and create in my life.”

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Bond: “I wanted to bring mantra into other regional styles, make it more relatable to new areas of the world, and I wanted to explore those possibilities creatively.”

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D a n To s s i n g

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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Many of the world’s religions are built around the concept of opposing forces.

Whether bound in perpetual struggle between each other or held together in steady equilibrium and balance, binary systems are pervasive in spiritual thought.

Good versus evil, enlightenment over

QUIET RIOT THU 12/9 ELVIS’ CHRISTMAS FRI 12/31 METALFEST SAT 12/4

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Music

continued from page 23

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NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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On Shansan (a Sanskrit word meaning “invocation”), Bond said she attempts eight bhajans, or devotional mantras, to feminine expressions of Hindi deities such as Shailaputri, KaliDurga, and Saraswati to open her to the Divine Feminine and facilitate spiritual and emotional growth.

“I began writing compositions for the feminine aspects of the Divine for my own personal practice,” Bond said, “to correct the imbalance I saw in myself and the rejection of the feminine that I felt I had internalized. The practice made a great difference for me personally.”

Shansan is her way of giving that practice for others to benefit from.

Though Bond has recently relocated to Florida, the new album was released Friday on Fort Worth’s Orange Otter Records

24

and features musical contributions from a bevy of local instrumentalists. As well as labelhead and fellow singer-songwriter Clint Niosi, Bond’s eight Eastern modal mantras benefit from violinist Tamara Brown (Cameron Smith, Eric Osbourne), expressive drummer/percussionist Eddie Dunlap (Rage Out Arkestra), and the lyrical flute of Daniel Katsük.

“I’ve known April for as long as I’ve been playing music, but I hadn’t heard from her in many years,” Niosi said of his decision to be involved in the album.

“When she sent the new tracks she’d been working on, my jaw dropped open at the number of beautiful vocal harmonies. I knew immediately that it was going to be a musically interesting project.”

Although her two most recent albums make much use of traditional Indian musical motifs, Bond does not exclusively work with these sounds. A devotee of a wealth of regional and ethnic musical

styles, she has previously explored Greek, Flamenco, Celtic, and Ashkenazi Jewish Klezmer music.

“I lived in France from 2004 to 2005 and was heavily influenced by the Celtic and Klezmer influences in much of the local music there,” Bond said. “Most of this album bridges the gap from Klezmer to Indian classical music. I wanted to bring mantra into other regional styles, make it more relatable to new areas of the world, and I wanted to explore those possibilities creatively.”

Bond’s compositions are beautiful expressions, laced with compelling Eastern motifs, her seraphim voice dense with harmony as she recites invocations from traditional Vedic texts, a task that, though she admits she is no scholar, Bond accomplishes with impressive mastery.

“To translate the mantras is difficult,” she said. “Each syllable, each letter even, in Sanskrit has meaning, often several

meanings. In fact, [a deity’s] name could be broken down to the meaning of each individual letter.”

The music works equally well as an accompaniment for meditation and yoga as it does for reading with a cup of hot tea or as a peaceful soundtrack for housework.

The calming aesthetic provides much to enjoy regardless of one’s propensity for Bond’s specific spiritual motivations.

“The main thing I hope listeners understand is this album is not just for women, though, of course, I do hope it provides value to women,” Bond said.

“Even more, I hope it provides healing to the ‘feminine’ aspect of anyone who listens to it. I believe we are the soil for one another’s souls, so to speak. Healing the Divine Feminine creates fertile soil for the Divine Masculine to grow and find its most glorious and beneficial expression.” l

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Hearsay

Jaybirds Saturday at MASS

Great lineup Saturday at MASS (1002 S Main St, 682-707-7774). Jaybirds, Heart of the City, Dead Heirs, and Brandon Callies will hit the stage starting at 7pm.

Tickets are $7 in advance, $10 at the door.

It’s 18 and up.

Cour tesy credit: Western Soul Photography

With the exception of the big Joshua Ray Walker’s show at Lola’s Trailer Park which we wrote about last week, I don’t see a lot of serious party shows for Wednesday, a.k.a. Thanksgiving Eve, a.k.a. the Serious Party-Night Kickoff to the Holidays. I guess that’s because even musicians want to just kick back and reconnect with old friends in from out of town or are traveling back home. At the time you’re reading this, I’m back home myself up north, Pittsburgh specifically, where there’s, like, zero local music scene. Aside from a few punk acts and that rapper who was famous for a minute back when — Whiz Kalifa or something?

— Pittsburgh, like pretty much every other flyover city in this country, seems to be completely bereft of a progressive independent music scene. At least it was that way when I lived there and last time I visited, about two years ago. Maybe things have changed. Maybe they haven’t.

What I guess I’m trying to say is that I’ll be missing live Fort Worth tuneage on my working vacation back home. Good thing I got one of my buddies hooked on Flickerstick — I’ll be hearing a lot of them in the ’burgh. Siri, play “Girls and Pills.” Again.

So when, exactly, is the reunion tour? Brandin, call me, brah. — Anthony Mariani

Cour tesy Facebook

Noteworthy

FO R T WO R T H W E E K LY

Phantomelo at Tulips Saturday

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While I don’t see any serious party-tastic shows for Thanksgiving Eve, I do see some killer weekend outings, starting Saturday at Tulips FTW (112 St. Louis Av, 817-367-9798) with Phantomelo, Cotinga, and Ayden Trammell. Never heard of the band in the middle, but Phantomelo’s groovy disco-rock will get you moving, and Ayden Trammell is one of the best moody-rock singersongwriters in all of North Texas. True to Tulips’ Five & Dime theme, tickets are $5 at the door or Prekindle. — A.M.

Cour tesy Phantomelo

NOVEMBER 24-30, 2021

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Sam Anderson Sunday at the Trailer Park

I’ve been covering local music off and on since 2002, and I can heartily say that the Quaker City Night Hawks are in my Top 5 Fort Worth bands of all time. Not sure who Nos. 1-5 are exactly — Burning Hotels are up there, same with Goodwin, and you can’t forget about Calhoun and John Price, or Sonic Buffalo, Tame … Tame & Quiet, Son of Stan, and Squanto, or … the list goes on — but Quaker City is exceptional in that they’re blues-based and heavily Southern-tinged. This would not seem exceptional except that I’m from up north.

As “Southern” as we got was ZZ Top and Lynyrd Skynyrd, which were definitely not bad points of departure and — and — which inform Quaker City’s mud-and-honey sound that we need more of around here.

Thankfully, Lola’s Trailer Park (2735 W 5th St, 817-759-9100) is here to help by offering up a heaping helping of Quaker City co-frontman Sam Anderson (right) and His House Band 7pm Sunday. You know it’s gonna be #tyte. No cover, and sweet angel Mama Lu’s Kitchen will be doling out goodies in addition. There may or may not be some queso blanco. — A.M. Contact HearSay at Anthony@FWWeekly.com.

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EMPLOYMENT: IT Professionals Access Global Group (Southlake, TX) has openings for the following positions which may req relocation to various unanticipated locations throughout U.S. SYSTEMS ENGINEER - Write complex sql queries. Validate data reports. Incorporate modifications. Create interactive dashboards, key insight reports w/ Excel analytics automation of data sources & reusability, pivots, VLOOKUP, conditional formats, calculations & macros. Monitor, fix & update code. Gather & doc reqmts. Conduct detailed system reviews & testing. Defect tracking to prevent data loss. Prep extensive Unit Test cases. Analyze reqmts in SDLC environment & break down to fit in agile policies. Reqs MS in IT or Comp Sci, 2 yrs exp as System Engineer & proficiency in Scrum, Tableau, Agile & SQL Server.

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RENTALS / REAL ESTATE Cyndy Reep, Realtor Berkshire Hathaway HA Alexander Chandler Realty 2900 S Hulen, FWTX 817-806-4100 Critic’s Choice for Best Realtor in Best Of 2021: “Here in North Texas, ladies — and gentleman, for that matter — tend to do what they want. Realtor Cyndi Reep is no exception.

While she does have listings and can certainly help you sell your property, her true love is being a buyer’s agent.

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Original application has made with the Texas Alcohol Beverage Commission for Mixed Beverage Permit with Food and Beverage Certificate by What The Crab Inc, DBA What The Crab, located at 3341 E Broad St. #103 Mansfield, Tarrant County Tx 76063.

The president and officer is Wenfang Lu.

Original application has made with The Texas Alcohol Beverage commission for a Wine and Beer Retailer’s Permit with Food and Beverage Certificate by Akarii FW Inc, DBA Akarii Revolving Sushi, located at 628 Harrold St #140, Fort Worth, Tarrant County Tx 76107. The president and officer is Wendy Lu.

INDUSTRIAL MECHANIC NEEDED IN MIDLAND TX, HOUSTON TX AND PRYOR OK Position Summary: Applicant must be able to troubleshoot, repair and maintain the following: small diesel/gas engines, centrifugal pumps, generators, electrical circuits and hydraulic/pneumatic systems.

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• Safely operate a forklift • Minimum of one year of experience in welding and pipe fitting. Must pass 6G Butt and Tee Branch welding tests Must test to API 1104 certification and have an understanding of API 1104 certification standards and procedures. • • • • Must have the ability to read and interpret blue prints and mechanical drawings

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Mouser Electronics 1000 N Main, Mansfield Careers.Mouser.com 817-804-3800 Critic’s Choice for Best Place to Work in Best Of 2021: “Having started out as a family business in a small three-story building in Mansfield, Mouser Electronics is now a multimillion-dollar company doing business around the globe. Anyone in the area who has a friend that works at Mouser knows it’s a great place to be.

Their employees actively bring them new recruits and are rewarded for doing so with referral bonuses. Does that motivate them to praise the company? Perhaps.

But no one stays at a crappy job for an extended amount of time just to earn a referral bonus. Mouser is simply taking care of its own people first. They take care of the community as well...

(Read more at FWWeekly.com.)

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