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ON THE ROAD city London


ON THE ROAD Editor of collection Laura Andreini

editorial project Forma Edizioni srl, Firenze, Italia redazione@formaedizioni.it www.formaedizioni.it editorial production Archea Associati editorial direction Laura Andreini authors Andrea Nastri* Giuliana Vespere** editorial staff Valentina Muscedra Maria Giulia Caliri graphic design Silvia Agozzino Elisa Balducci Vitoria Muzi Isabella Peruzzi Mauro Sampaolesi translations Karen Whittle photolithography LAB di Gallotti Giuseppe Fulvio, Firenze printing Gutenberg Press Limited, Gudja Road, Tarxien, Malta PLA 19

Š 2017 Forma Edizioni srl, Firenze All rights reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. First Edition: November 2017 ISBN 978-88-96780-90-9

* Andrea Nastri, architect, has a PhD in History of Architecture, Landscape and Urban Design, and is senior professor at LUM School of Management. He works with daily newspapers and international sector journals and has published numerous books on architecture. ** Giuliana Vespere, architect, has a PhD in Architectural and Urban Design, and is senior professor at LUM School of Management. She is author of articles and essays and editor of books on topics of contemporary architecture.


Table of contents

Guide as a tool 4 London 5 Political / geographical facts General information Useful tips

6 7 8

London: the beauty of chaos London post Thatcher London the Resilient City

10 12 16

Skyline

19

Strategies for visiting London 24 Routes 26 The City 28 Westminster - West End 66 South Bank - Greenwich - South London 96 Kensington - Hyde Park - West London 138 Regent’s Park - North London 158 Docklands - Olympic Park - East End 174 Museums 208 Theatres 210 Restaurants 212 Hotels 214 Architectural offices 216 Index by architect Index by project

218 220

Transport 222


Guidebook as tool

On the Road is a new collection of contemporary architecture guidebooks whose purpose is to tell about a place, whether a city or larger area, through its architectural works chosen to be visited and experienced directly. The guidebook has a convenient special jacket that opens into a map marking the location of the architectural works and interesting sites to visit. On the back are miniature images and addresses of the architectural works described in detail within. The book starts with short essays explaining the city or area’s present day and history and outlining possible future scenarios with planned or imminent projects. Each work features of a photograph of the whole, an architectural drawing (plan or section), a short description, and facts including architect, type, year of construction, address, website, and how to visit it. The finest architecture of each city and suggested routes are represented by this collection of not-to-be-missed, “timeless� buildings that uniquely define their settings. General information and useful tips for travelers help them optimize their visits and quickly understand the essence of the place described. Museums, theatres, restaurants, hotels and a list of top architectural firms working in the city let visitors turn a regular trip into an opportunity for study or work.

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London Laura Andreini*

While walking around the streets of London, you can sense the contemporary feeling that the On the Road series guides strive to bring out in every city that has been or is set to be covered. In the case of London, it was in some ways difficult to select the buildings (which are all accompanied by a detailed description) owing to the great amount of architecture built in recent years. In effect, this is precisely what the series is looking to do: to direct readers/visitors in their choice of itinerary and to scrupulously select the top buildings of most interest not just for architects but, more in general, for the contemporary traveller. The On the Road series is a byword for the emotion of discovering and exploring places that describe, represent and enrich contemporary architecture. Indeed, most of the projects chosen are very recent to allow you to get to know London in a new and stimulating way. Alongside these contemporary buildings are descriptions of the best of 1980s and 90s London architecture, such as Tate Britain’s Clore Gallery by James Stirling, as well as those historical buildings that just cannot be ignored, such as Westminster Abbey or St Paul’s Cathedral by Christopher Wren. The tour of London has been divided into six itineraries to make it easier for visitors to get around the city. A suggestion I’d like to make if I may is that you try out the many means of transport that London has to offer: from buses, to taxis, and the excellent Underground that condenses the capital of the United Kingdom into a space-time dimension that is a great help for a short visit. But then again, why not try out the bike lanes to make for a slower and perhaps more attentive tour of the locations? London is the city of the Cycle Superhighways, lanes that go from the suburbs right into the centre: just the right viewpoint for studying the new urban planning trends of a city that was the 1999 promoter of the Urban Task Force, led by Richard Rogers, which introduced the principles of refitting public areas into a bounded space, and increasing building density as well as the range of functions provided in the suburbs. These ways of thinking have become embedded in the urban fabric and architects visiting the city will have the opportunity to see ongoing urban experimentation with their own eyes: a rare and priceless opportunity.

* Laura Andreini is Architect and Associate Professor. Teaches and researches at the DIDA of Florence and works at Studio Archea of which she is co-founder; writer and Deputy Editor for area magazine.

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Political / geographical facts

country England, United Kingdom language english area code + 44 (20) coordinates 51° 30' 26'' N 0° 07' 39'' E

density 5.517,1 inhabitants / sq.km time zone UTC+0 city website www.london.gov.uk

area 1.572,15 sq. km population 8.673.713

Administrative districts

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29 28 26 11 10 9 25 2 1 8 27 4 3 22 7 23 5 6 21 17 18

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1. City of London 2. City of Westminster 3. Kensington and Chelsea 4. Hammersmith and Fulham 5. Wandsworth 6. Lambeth 7. Southwark 8. Tower Hamlets 9. Hackney 10. Islington 11. Camden 12. Brent 13. Ealing 14. Hounslow 15. Richmond 16. Kingston

17. Merton 18. Sutton 19. Croydon 20. Bromley 21. Lewisham 22. Greenwich 23. Bexley 24. Havering 25. Barking and Dagenham 26. Redbridge 27. Newham 28. Waltham Forest 29. Haringey 30. Enfield 31. Barnet 32. Harrow 33. Hillingdon


General information useful addresses and numbers

INFORMATION OFFICES City of London Information Centre St Paul’s Churchyard London EC4M 8BX +44 (0)20 7332 1456 Mon - Sat / 9.30 am - 5.30 pm Sun / 10 am - 4 pm 25 - 26 December / closed Piccadilly Circus Travel Information Centre Piccadilly London W1J 9HS +44 343 222 1234 Mon - Sun / 9.30 am - 4 pm EMERGENCY SERVICES Police, Fire Department and Emergency medical service: 112 or 999 URBAN TRANSPORT The site tfl.gov.uk provides useful information on all means of transport available in the city, how to buy tickets, and ordinary and season ticket fares*. It also gives information in real time on delays, works underway and station closures. Taxi One-Number Taxi 0871 871 8710 Dial-A-Cab 020 7253 5000 Radio Taxis 020 7272 0272 Taxis can also be booked online at www.kabbee.com or using the Hailo App downloadable from App Store or Google Play: uk.mytaxi.com

GENERAL CONSULATE OF FRANCE 21 Cromwell Road, London SW7 2EN +44 (0)20 7073 1200 GENERAL CONSULATE OF GERMANY 23 Belgrave Square / Chesham Place London SW1X 8PZ +44 (0)20 7824 1300 EMBASSY OF ITALY 14 Three Kings Yard, London W1K 4EH +44 (0)20 73122200 EMBASSY OF THE UNITED STATES 24 Grosvenor Square, London W1A 2LQ +44 (0)20 7499 9000 EMBASSY OF THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA 49 Portland Place, London W1B 1JL +44 (0)20 7299 4049 HOW TO PHONE From a local landline: Just dial the number, including the city code (0)20 From a foreign landline: Dial the international code (+44), city code (20) and number

Bicycle rentals Santander Cycles It costs 2 pounds to access a bike for 24 hours. The first 30 minutes of every journey are free, then the service costs £2 every 30 minutes. For rapid access to the hire service, download the Santander Cycles App from App Store or Google Play. Car sharing There are many web sites and apps for access to car sharing. tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/car-clubs * The cheapest and handiest way of paying for public transport in London is the rechargeable Oyster Card, which can be used to pay for reduced-price single fares and season tickets on the whole transport network.

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Central Criminal Court New Ludgate

The Mermaid Conference & Events Centre


Š Mauro Sampaolesi

St Paul’s Cathedral

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01. City of London Information Centre St Paul’s Churchyard London EC4M 8BX Mon - Sun / 9.30 am 5.30 pm +44 (0) 20 73321456 visit@cityoflondon.gov.uk www.cityoflondon.gov.uk

© Make Architects

Central St Paul’s

30

Situated opposite the south transept of the Cathedral of St Paul’s, in one of the most popular tourist areas in the city, the City of London Information Centre stands out as a modern and dynamic structure in an area of immense architectural and urban significance. The building, with its at once linear and complex configuration, is of great visual impact. It shows how contemporary design can be used to effect in a historic context. The triangular floor plan of the project issues from the conformation of the site and pedestrian flow analyses, while its orientation towards the Cathedral sets out to establish a dialogue between the two buildings. The metal roof, consisting of a reinforced steel frame covered by 220 prefinished stainless steel panels and embracing 140 square metres of interior space, conjures up the aerodynamic profile of a paper aeroplane. The building was also designed to meet strict environmental standards for the reduction of CO2 emissions.


Š Hufton+Crow

The City

architects Make Architects

type information centre

construction 2007 31


02. St Paul’s Cathedral St Paul’s Churchyard London EC4M 8AD Mon - Thu / 8.30 am - 6 pm Fri / 8.30 am - 5 pm +44 (0) 20 72468350 reception@stpaulscathedral. org.uk www.stpauls.co.uk

Central St Paul’s

32

Very much a symbol of the city, St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the greatest examples of English Baroque. Designed by Christopher Wren and completed in 1711, the presentday church is the fifth religious building constructed on this site over the centuries. Although enormous in size, the building shines thanks to its harmonious composition. The façade is characterized by the two towers at the sides which frame a templestyle front with two orders of twin columns. The interior is striking in its sober majesty; the presbytery hosts precious golden Byzantine mosaics, while the crypt contains the tombs of great figures from English history, from Admiral Nelson to the Duke of Wellington, Winston Churchill to Wren himself. The world-famous dome, which rises up from two colonnaded tambours to a height of 108 metres, is the biggest in London and its summit offers a splendid view over the heart of the city.


Š Mauro Sampaolesi

The City

architects Christopher Wren

type church

construction 1708 33


03. One New Change 1 New Change London EC4M 9AF Mon - Fri / 10 am - 7 pm Sat / 10 am - 6 pm Sun / 12 am - 6 pm +44 (0) 20 70028900 enquiries@ onenewchange.com www.onenewchange.com

© Ateliers Jean Nouvel - Hiroshi Maeda

Central St Paul’s

34

The building, Jean Nouvel’s first work in Great Britain, is situated right in the heart of the City, just a stone’s throw from St Paul’s Cathedral and Cheapside. The building’s unusual layout derives from the delicate relationship with the context and the church, its long central pedestrian passageway an axis creating a perspective towards St Paul’s. One New Change has a many-sided, irregular shape, and is clad by 6,300 reflective glass panels of different degrees of opacity, with 22 shades of brown and over 250 print patterns. Contrary to this linear and matt exterior, the interior has a sculpted and polished feel. The building hosts 60 shops and restaurants on the first three floors, offices on the upper floors and what can be described as an urban square on the top, with green areas, coffee shops and a restaurant affording a beautiful view over the cathedral and the city.


Š Marco Mugnai

The City

architects Ateliers Jean Nouvel

type retail, offices

construction 2010 35


04. Number One Poultry 1 Poultry London EC2R 8JR partly open to the public

Central / Northern / Waterloo and City Bank

36

The office and retail building is situated on the corner between Poultry and Queen Victoria Street. The site was previously host to a listed building designed in 1870 by John Belcher, and a few years before had also been earmarked for an office tower by Mies Van der Rohe. The building comprises various juxtaposed volumes, with façades clad in horizontal stripes of pink and yellow limestone. Like all postmodern buildings, it contains a wealth of more or less sophisticated symbolic references; for example, it features a tower on the corner façade that is often associated with a submarine control tower and a large lockshaped opening. When it was completed, no less than 20 years after the first project draft (and 5 years after Stirling’s death), the success of postmodernism had already very much peaked; this may also explain the cool welcome given to the building by a large part of the public and critics.


Š Giacomo Carpina

The City

architects James Stirling and Associates

type retail, offices

construction 1998 37


11. 30 St Mary Axe (The Gherkin) 30 St Mary Axe London EC3A 8EP partly open to the public +44 (0) 20 70715029 www.30stmaryaxe.com

© Foster + Partners

Circle / Metropolitan Aldgate

50

Originally known as the Swiss Re Building (named after the insurance group that first occupied the building) and ironically renamed by Londoners as ‘The Gherkin’, ever since its completion this 41-floor, 180-metre-high building has become an icon on the city skyline. Defined as ‘London’s first ecological skyscraper’, it was designed by adopting the most advanced energy-saving methods. Environmentally, its profile reduces wind deflections compared with a rectilinear tower of similar size, helping to maintain a comfortable environment at ground level, and creates external pressure differentials that are exploited to drive a unique system of natural ventilation. This allows its energy requirements to be reduced by around 50% of a conventional office tower. The glazed façade also allows natural light in, therefore also lowering lighting costs. Thanks to the diagonally braced structure enveloping the whole façade no internal support pillars were needed, resulting large, column-free and flexible spaces for the offices. In addition to offices, the building also hosts shops on the ground floor and a topfloor restaurant.


Š Nigel Young/Foster + Partners

The City

architects Foster + Partners

type retail, offices

construction 2004 51


40. Millennium Bridge Millennium Bridge London SE1 open to the public

Š Foster + Partners

Circle / District Mansion House

112

Millennium Bridge is the first bridge to have been built over the Thames in central London since Tower Bridge. The idea was to make a light and linear structure that did not blot out the view over the river. The result is a sleek steel blade, dramatically lit up at night from below. Slung as low as possible over the river, the bridge totals 320 metres in length (with a central span of 144 metres) and is extra slim, thanks to the use of innovative technologies. The structure is held up by eight prestressed steel cables anchored to the banks by deep reinforced concrete pillars, while the deck is supported by steel transverse arms clamped onto the cables at 8-metre intervals. The two slender middle pillars are elliptical in shape. As is well-known, two days after it was opened, the bridge was closed owing to excessive lateral movement. After careful testing, the Arup engineering team designed dampers situated at various points in the structure to mitigate the sway, which has resulted in changes to the codes for bridge building worldwide.


Š Mauro Sampaolesi

South Bank - Greenwich - South London

architects Foster + Partners, Antony Caro, Arup Associates

type bridge

construction 2000

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Chesham

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Chalfont & Latimer

Watford Junction

Chorleywood

Croxley

Rickmansworth

Moor Park

Ruislip

Hillingdon Uxbridge

Ruislip Manor

Ickenham Ruislip Gardens

South Harrow South Ruislip Sudbury Hill Northolt

Sudbury Town Alperton

Greenford Perivale Hanger Lane Park Royal North Ealing Ealing Broadway

5 4 3

Ealing Common South Ealing

Harrow & Wealdstone North Harrow Harrowon-the-Hill

Pinner

West Harrow

Canons Park Kenton

Hendon Central

Kingsbury

Brent Cross Golders Green

Neasden

Wembley Park Wembley Central

West Finchley

B Finchley Central East Finchley Crouch Highgate Hill

3

Colindale

Queensbury

Preston Road

Northwick Park South Kenton North Wembley

Burnt Oak

Mill Hill East

Archway

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Hampstead

Dollis Hill

Uppe

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Chiswick Park Boston Manor Osterley Hounslow East Hounslow Central

Hounslow West

Heathrow Terminal 5

4

Edgware

Stanmore

A Tufnell Park Holloway R Finchley Kentish Kentish Town Willesden Green Road Town Stonebridge Park Belsize Park & Frognal Caledonian West Kilburn Harlesden Kensal Brondesbury West Road Chalk Farm Rise Hampstead Park Camden Willesden Junction Road Camden Town Caled Finchley Road Brondesbury Kensal Green R Swiss Cottage Bar Mornington Queen’s Kilburn South King’s Cross High Road Hampstead St. John’s Wood Crescent Park Kilburn St. Pancras Great Edgware Park Baker Portland Euston Paddington Road Marylebone Street Street Maida Vale Angel Warwick Avenue Edgware Euston Warren Street Square Farringdon Road Royal Oak Regent’s Westbourne Park Park Goodge Russell Barbican Bond Bayswater Ladbroke Grove Oxford Street Street Square Moorgate Circus Latimer Road Marble Chancery Lane Arch East White Shepherd’s Notting Tottenham Holborn Bank Acton City Bush Hill Gate Court Road Green Covent Garden West Acton North Wood Lane Park Holland Queensway Hyde Park St. Paul’s Leicester Square Acton Corner Park High Street Acton Piccadilly Shepherd’s Cannon Street Kensington Mo Central Circus Bush Market Kensington Mansion House Knightsbridge (Olympia) Charing Goldhawk Road South Acton Blackfriars Gloucester Barons Cross St. James’s Acton Town Hammersmith Road Court Temple Park Victoria

Northfields

Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3

Totteridge & Whetstone Woodside Park

Headstone Lane

Northwood Hills

Eastcote Rayners Lane

Bushey Carpenders Park Hatch End

Northwood

West Ruislip

5 High Barnet

Watford High Street

Watford

Amersham

8 7 6

Special fares apply

Hatton Cross

Heathrow Terminal 4

1

West Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Kensington Green Brook Park Gunnersbury West Brompton Kew Gardens

Earl’s Court

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Parsons Green

3

Vauxhall

Southfields Wimbledon

Key to symbols

Southwark

Elephant & Castle

Wandsworth Road Clapham Junction

Dundonald Road

2

Peckham Rye Kennington Oval Stockwell Denmark Hill

Clapham High Street Clapham North Clapham Common

Brixton

Clapham South

3

Balham

Interchange stations Step-free access from street to train Step-free access from street to platform National Rail Airport Riverboat services Victoria Coach Station Emirates Air Line cable car

Merton Park

Tooting Bec Tooting Broadway Colliers Wood South Wimbledon

Beddington Lane

Mitcham

Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details

Borough

Lambeth North

Quee

East Putney

Wimbledon Park

1

Imperial Wharf

Putney Bridge

Embankment

Waterloo

Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Richmond

Westminster

South Sloane Kensington Square

Morden

Morden Belgrave Phipps Road Bridge Walk

Mitcham Junction

Ampere Way

Therapia Lane

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Cheshunt Enfield Town

High Barnet

Bush Hill Park

Cockfosters

Totteridge & Whetstone

Southgate

Roding Valley

Edmonton Green

Bounds Green

Highams Park

White Hart Lane Harringay Bruce Grove Green South Tottenham Lanes

Finchley Central Wood Green East Finchley Crouch Highgate Hill

Buckhurst Hill

Chingford

Silver Street

Turnpike Lane

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Debden Loughton

Southbury

Arnos Grove

West Finchley

Epping Theydon Bois

Turkey Street

Oakwood

Woodside Park

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Theobalds Grove

4 3

Brentwood

Upper Holloway

Gidea Park

Hainault

Central

Romford

Fairlop Barkingside

Emerson Park

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Cannon Street

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London Bermondsey Bridge

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2

Peckham Rye

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South Quay Crossharbour

Brockley

New Cross

Anerley

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Crystal Palace

ddington Lane

Ampere Way

Therapia Lane

Reeves Corner

Waddon Wandle Marsh Park

Church Street

Gallions Reach Beckton

Wellesley Road George Street

Nothern

Waterloo & City

DLR Woolwich Arsenal

4

Emirates Air Line cable car (special fares apply)

Beckenham Road

Birkbeck

London Overground

Beckenham Junction

Harrington Road Elmers End Arena

London Trams fare zone

Woodside

West Croydon Centrale

Metropolitan

King George V

Avenue Road

Norwood Junction

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Jubilee

Cyprus

Deptford Bridge

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Penge West

Hammersmith & City

Victoria

Beckton Park

Greenwich

Lewisham

Forest Hill

District

Royal Albert

Elverson Road

Sydenham

Circle

Piccadilly

Prince Regent

Pontoon Dock London City Airport

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

Honor Oak Park

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Mudchute Island Gardens

New Cross Gate

Emirates Royal Docks West Silvertown

North Emirates Greenwich Greenwich Peninsula

Heron Quays

Surrey Quays

Queens Road Peckham

hant & Castle

Canada Water

3

East India

Shadwell Westferry Tower Tower Hill Gateway Wapping West India Quay River Thames Canary Wharf Rotherhithe

lackfriars

h

2/3

Monument

ansion House

n

6

2

1

Bakerloo

Harold Wood

Chadwell Blackhorse Seven Newbury Heath Sisters Tottenham Hale Road Walthamstow Redbridge Park Central Goodmayes Stamford Wanstead Gants Hill Upminster Hill Walthamstow Seven Kings Leyton Leytonstone Finsbury Queen’s Road Arsenal Upminster Bridge Tufnell Park Ilford Midland Road Stoke Park Holloway Road Hornchurch Newington Manor Park St. James Leytonstone Wanstead Kentish Town Rectory Elm Park Street High Road Highbury & Dalston Park Woodgrange Road Caledonian Leyton Forest Islington Clapton Park Kingsland Road Dagenham East Gate Stratford amden Hackney Hackney Maryland International Road Caledonian Dagenham Heathway Downs Central Canonbury Road & Stratford Becontree Barnsbury Homerton Hackney Dalston Junction Upney ng’s Cross Wick Stratford London Fields t. Pancras Barking Haggerston High Street Cambridge Heath East Ham Abbey Pudding Hoxton Mile Bethnal Angel Road Mill Lane End Upton Park Green Old Street Bow Road Plaistow Shoreditch Farringdon High Street BromleyStepney Green West Bow by-Bow Ham Aldgate Russell Barbican Whitechapel Church East Square Moorgate Devons Road Liverpool Star Lane Chancery Lane Street Langdon Park lborn Bank Aldgate Canning All Saints Garden Town Royal St. Paul’s Victoria Limehouse Poplar Blackwall Square Manor House

Archway

Key to lines

Shenfield

Grange Hill

Chigwell Woodford South Woodford Snaresbrook

Wood Street

5

Special fares apply

9

Blackhorse Lane Lebanon Road

London Trams

Addiscombe

East Sandilands Croydon Lloyd Park Coombe Lane

TfL Rail

Gravel Hill

Fieldway Addington Village

New Addington

King Henry’s Drive

District open weekends and on some public holidays


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