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The pilbara Port Hedland • Newman • Tom Price Karratha • Marble Bar • Onslow • Karijini

PAT H F I N D E R

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THE

pilbara Western australia

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“It’s a frontier country that attracts a certain type of person…Everyone has a story and it seems to me that people in the Pilbara have more interesting stories... The Pilbara is on the physical perimeter of Australia and seems to occupy a sort of metaphorical edge in the Australian psyche. People who have safe and normal lives seem to stay in cities.” John Elliott, Pilbar a Stories

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contents

Salt Mine in Port Hedland. Photograph by Nicole Yardley, 2011.

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w h y the pilbar a?

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The hottest attr actions

12 The Pilbar a—w hen? w here? how?

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Port hedland

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iconic pubs

22 scene stealers

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26 joining the dots—arts and cult ur al tr ail

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k arijini national park

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marble bar

40 pilbar a coast

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48 the magic of flight

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experience the w est pilbar a coast

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dampier peninsula & chichester national park

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new man and tom price

62 pannawonica

68 the road east

70 the road north

72 the road sou th

74 the canning stock rou te

76 the warlu way

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giddy up—the pilbar a horse r acing circuit

inland & coastal pilbar a

directory

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why the pilbara?

The Pilbara is a fierce, ancient land whose earthly treasures of crude oil, iron ore and natural gas draw fortune seekers from across the globe and make Australia the lucky country. Prepare to be swept off your feet by a land of extremes, of bright copper sunsets and sheer, wondrous scale. Chart the course first struck by Aboriginal people more than 40,000 years ago through ravishing gorges and prehistoric rock forms and by the adventurers, pearlers and aviators who built towns and industrial powerhouses in its wide open wilderness. In the Pilbara’s Hamersley Ranges, according to legend, mining tycoon Lang Hancock first spotted the rusty cast of oxidised iron on which he built his fortune while piloting an Auster aircraft low through its narrow gorges during a lashing rainstorm in the 1950s. Today the Pilbara’s great concentrations of the high-grade iron ore fuel the steel mills of Asia. At the Montebello Islands, an archipelago off the startlingly beautiful coastline near Karratha, the British army once tested atomic bombs as part of Operation Hurricane. Today fishermen haul emperor, coral trout and

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T The he Pilbar Pilba raa Pathfinder Pat hfinder

prize marlin from the islands’ warm tropical waters. At Karijini National Park; an oasis of pulse quickening gorges and cool, gushing waterfalls, patches of wildflowers and carpets of golden spinifex spring from sun-baked soil. Creation stories of the region’s first people are told in neighbouring Millstream Chichester National Park’s rolling hills and lush waterholes alongside relics of how they first lived and hunted there. Scout through the Burrup Peninsula where the earth’s richest archaeological records are held in millions of works of Indigenous rock art, and adjacent Dampier, homeland of the Red Dog legend. Watch career jackaroos muster cattle on farm stays at outback stations where hundreds of Aboriginal workers once held the longest strike in Australian history for fair wages and conditions. Prospect for the whopping gold nuggets that immortalised Australia’s hottest town, Marble Bar, in fossicking folklore or see beautiful renderings of this great northern land by Aboriginal artist collectives in Newman, Roebourne and Port Hedland. Experience old Onslow and Cossack and the restored ruins that bear witness to a frontier life led by pearling pioneers and others who managed to eke out a foothold in unforgiving wilderness. Find yourself at iron stained Port Hedland; the world’s biggest bulk export port and a town of intriguing contrasts


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Near Tom Price for The Pilbara Project Photograph by Christian Fletcher, 2011.

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The Hottest Attractions. Pilbara Like A Local. 1

Travel to the edge: Hiking hotlist & adventure abseiling.

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K arijini National Park

Inject a shot of adrenaline into your Pilbara ex perience at Karijini National Park’s deep gorges, waterfalls, mountain hikes, secret swimming holes and adventure abseils.

Cream of the coast: Fishing the Pilbara. Da mpier Archipelago, W est Moore Island, Mon tebello’s, Mackerel Islands and Onslow.

Throw a line into waters brimming with barramundi and find way-above-youraverage ocean fishing at the Dampier Archipelago, West Moore Island, the Montebello’s and the Mackerel Islands off the coast of Onslow.

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Get arty: Urban to Indigenous. Port Hedland, Roebourne and New m an

See international street murals blooming across the walls of Australia’s busiest port precinct, visit Aboriginal art collectives at work in their centres at Spinifex Hill Studio, Martumili, Yinjaa- Barni Art and Roebourne Art Group, or find contemporar y Australian art at the Port Hedland Courthouse Galler y.

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Northern Soul: Outback farm stays. Indee station, Pardoo station or Cheela Plains station in Par aburdoo.

Leave the well-trodden tourist track with a more authentic adventure on an outback farm stay where you can watch a muster, meet a jackaroo and share a yarn or t wo around the campfire at an iconic Pilbara station.

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Wild wonders: Experience Aboriginal Australia. Millstrea m National Park & the Burrup Penninsula / Muruj uga National Park.

Ex plore the world of Australia’s earliest people on an Aboriginal Cultural Tour of Millstream Chichester National Park. Learn about customar y Aboriginal hunting and gathering, bush tucker and heritage and discover ancient petrogly phs and with the land’s traditional owners.

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Get your tyres dirty: Off road adventures. New man, Tom Price & K arla mily i National Park.

Take on the fabled Skull Springs Road or find the Carawine Gorge. Ex plore the rough countr y of Karlamilyi National Park on a four wheel drive adventure out of Newman, from Kalgan’s Pool water hole to Eagle Rock Falls to Tom Price’s Mt Nameless.

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Destination dazzler: Prospecting and precious rock. M arble Bar and N ullagine.

Prospect for gold and primeval rocks on a geo discover y trail through Marble Bar, where famed jasper and the most ancient traces of life on the planet, stromatolites, nestle amongst its lovely hills and gorges.

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Ready to Rumble: Explore industry. Port Hedland, C ape La mbert New m an and Tom Price

Get behind the scenes access to enormous machiner y and stadium sized ships on tours of BHP Billiton’s mining and port operations at Port Hedland and Cape Lambert. Catch the open cut mining action with a live blast at Newman or Tom Price and follow the trains laden with iron as they cut a path through rugged Pilbara

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Raise the dust: A Pilbara Rodeo. Pannawonic a Rodeo.

Ex perience bull riding and camp drafting at the annual Pannawonica Rodeo and visit the legendar y Boot Tree, laden with steel caps, each slung there as a send-off by scores of mining folk who once called the town home.

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A flying start: Scenic flights. Goldsworth y, N ullagine and the w ider Pilbar a.

Take to the skies in a light plane and find far flung places where few visitors have set foot, from Goldsworthy to Nullagine or remote Aboriginal communities ser viced by mail run pilots and Royal Flying Doctors.

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Red Dog Country Revealed. K arr ath a, Da mpier , Roebourne, Cossack , W ickh a m and Poin t Sa mson.

Trace the wanderings of Red Dog, the roving cattle dog captured the hearts and imaginations of the Pilbara, to Dampier. You’ll find a statue paying tribute to the mercurial mutt, see the blazing smokestacks of one of the world’s largest liquefied natural gas ventures at Karratha, historic Roebourne with its Old Gaol, the abandoned town-turned art hub of Cossack and nearby seaside hamlets of Wickham and Point Samson.


The hottest attr section actions header pilbara like a local

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Nesting National Treasures: Flatback turtles. Cemetery Beach, Port Hedland

The Pilbara’s natural wonders span from prime whale watching opportunities to the uniquely north-western phenomenon of the staircase to the moon, but few are as miraculous as the sight of Port Hedland’s rare and beautiful flatback sea turtles nesting and hatching on the beach. T urtle tour enquiries can be made through the Port Hedland Visitor Centre.

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the pilbar a — when? where? how?

the pilbara.

when? where? how? When? The Pilbara’s weather can be split simply into t wo seasons; the Wet and the Dr y. The Dr y season is from May to November, when it’s not-a-cloud-inthe-sk y sunny and the most popular time to visit the Pilbara. Days are mild and nights are cool. Activities abound, wild flowers flourish and communities buzz with events. The Wet spans from November to April, when brooding clouds let fly weeklong waterfalls of rain. Average day time temperatures soar to the high- 30s and 40s, and nights are balmy with spectacular lightning shows, swollen rivers, thundering waterfalls and plent y of wildlife.

Photograph by Frank Argaet, P.H.otography workshop 2010. Image courtetsy of FORM .

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the pilbar a — when? where? how?

Where? Sprawling 507,896 square kilometres across the north of Western Australia, the Pilbara is around 1,500km north of the state capital, Perth, by road. Bordering the Kimberley to the north and the Gascoyne and Mid-West to the south, the region is made up of the Shires of Ashburton and East Pilbara, the Town of Port Hedland and the Shire of Roebourne. Home to 67,000 people, it is a globally significant mining and energ y region and accounts for around 20 per cent of Western Australia’s total land mass.

How? Port Hedland is the junction where adventure pathways through the Pilbara meet. There are daily flights from Perth to Paraburdoo, Newman, Karratha and Port Hedland by Qantas and Virgin. Charted flights transport workers to remote mine sites and there are buses available into Karratha, Port Hedland and Newman from Perth and other regional towns in Western Australia. Integrit y Coachlines offer a Perth to Broome pass which allows a hop-on-hop-off st yle of travel so you can stop wherever you like, including Karijini National Park, and choose your own Pilbara adventure.

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port hedland

the pilbara’s port of plenty

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port hedland—the pilbar a’s port of plent y

Art, wildlife and industry on an epic scale At the world’s largest bulk-export port colossal loaders dump tonnes upon tonnes of ore onto enormous ships across nineteen berths from the biggest open-cut iron ore mines any where, ever. At dusk, the setting sun lights up a horizon lined with hulking cargo ships, car dumpers and bucket wheel reclaimers. Loaded train carriages ceaselessly flow in on 1,000km of rail and ships churn out like clockwork through the port for foreign shores. The dock heaves with fleets of road trains, fly-in, fly-out workers in high visibility vests and exports of iron ore, salt and manganese. On Sundays families fish from the spoil bank or catch mud crabs in the mangroves. On race day, the first Monday in August, the town grinds to a halt, throws its own public holiday, frocks up and watches the horses. In the town centre a monument stands to a quirk y local tradition; the iconic Black Rock Stakes wheelbarrow race dreamt up for charit y back in 197 1, in which the entire town raced 120-kilometres from Goldsworthy to Port Hedland with ore laden wheelbarrows in the baking heat.

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Walls and buildings across town carr y murals by some of the world’s best and most recognisable street artists. Bet ween cafes and art galleries you’ll find street art by Mexico’s Saner, Australia’s Beastman and Vans the Omega, and Amsterdam-born, now Fremantle based Amok Island. From October to March, Port Hedland’s beaches host hundreds of magnificent, rare and threatened flatback sea turtles as they nest and later their young hatch – returning, ex traordinarily, to the exact beach where they first


port hedland—the pilbar a’s port of plent y

Make it Happen Port Hedland Visitor Centre (08) 9173 17 11 13 Wedge St, Port Hedland www.visitporthedland.com Info Orientate yourself from the Port Hedland Visitor Centre, which offers tours through the harbour, ship loading facilities, historical sites and buildings. How to get there— Accessible by road via the North West Coastal Highway and the Great Northern Highway, there are up to 50 commercial flights per week offering direct ser vices to Port Hedland, Bali, Brisbane, and Perth. Port Hedland International Airport is also home to International Freight ser vices, charter and flight training facilities, a helipad and the region’s Royal Flying Doctors Ser vice. www.porthedlandairport.com.au

hatched. Ever y year, when the temperature is just right, turtle hatchlings emerge from their shells, dig out of the sand and totter instinctively to the sea. Port Hedland’s World War II Rif le Range and the town’s Koombana Lookout, tell of a daring place galvanized by its frontier legacy. You’ll find in Port Hedland a certain magnetism and generosit y you can’t get in the big smoke; working miners, countr y people and fellows with grins as wide as the brim of their akubra.

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port hedland—the pilbar a’s port of plent y

Discover industry: Learn about the bucket wheel reclaimers and ship loaders that dominate Port Hedland’s sk yline and gain an in depth understanding of how Port Hedland’s mining industr y works on a one hour guided bus tours of BHP Billiton Iron Ore’s Nelson Point. T uesday and Thursday at 1pm. Port Hedland Visitor Centre Harbour Tour: Port Hedland’s port operations are some of the most impressive in the world for sheer tonnage and scale of activit y. Tour Port Hedland’s inner harbour with the Seafarers Centre and ex perience the swift loading, docking and sailing of huge liners on fast changing tides and see the complex manoeuvring of epic ore ships by tug boat. Seafarers Centre, (08) 9173 1315, Cnr Wedge & Wilson St, Port Hedland. Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday at 9.30am.

Discover History: Peel back the many layers of Port Hedland’s past to find a town more unex pected and interesting at ever y turn. Join the one hour guided bus tour of Port Hedland’s important buildings and heritage sites including the Koombana Lookout, a tribute to one of Western Australia’s enduring maritime mysteries, the old locomotives at Don Rhodes Mining Museum and artefact rich Dalget y House Museum. Port Hedland Visitor Centre, Fridays at 1.30pm. Image: Koombana shot. Tales of Port Hedland. Held at the Port Hedland Visitor Centre, Fridays at *10.30pm.

*During tourist season.

Low cost camping for Recreational Vehicle travelers is available to all self-contained RV’s at the Port Hedland Turf Club overflow campground. The campground is available for an overnight fee of $10 per RV with a maximum stay of three nights. Payment can be made at the Civic Centre, 13 McGregor Street or the Port Hedland Visitor Centre at 13 Wedge Street Port Hedland. Once payment has been made a sticker will be provided with the date of departure. These stickers must be visible to Rangers on all vehicles for the duration of their stay. * These grounds may not be available to users in the event of an alternate reser ved booking becoming available and severe weather conditions.

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Fortescue Site Tour. Operates from the Seafarers Centre, (08) 9173 1315 Cnr Wedge & Wilson St, Port Hedland. Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11.15am. Guided Turtle Tours. Port Hedland shares its bustling industrial coast with a wealth of marine life including rare and majestic flatback turtles. The nesting turtles can be found at Cemeter y Beach bet ween October and Januar y. Most mornings from December to March hatchlings can be seen totterring out to the ocean bet ween 5am and 9am. Guided turtle tours and monitoring programs are led by local organisation Care for Hedland Environmental Association. Operates seasonally. Enquiries to the Port Hedland Visitor Centre.


port hedland

F ind contemporar y Australian art at the Port Hedland Courthouse Gallery, a thriving arts hub set to a lush backdrop of sculpture filled gardens and street art and hosting a year-round program of art, exhibitions and workshops and home to the West End Markets, Pilbara’s largets makers markets. 16 Edgar St, Port Hedland, Mon – Fri 9am – 4.30pm / Sat 9am – 3pm.

Visit the iconic Silver Star Train, a 1940s American Zephyr class train which ran passengers from Port Hedland to Newman from the 1970s to the early 1990s. Discover Port Hedland’s pearling and pastoral histor y in displays, artefacts and oral histories at Dalgety House Museum, dating to 1903. Cnr Wedge & Anderson St, Port Hedland Open seasonally Mon – Sat 9am – 1pm.

Cosy up at Port Hedland’s ver y first watering hole, the Esplanade, or drink a cold pint of beer alongside the locals at the iconic Pier Hotel. For a drink with a water front view, tr y the Heddy. The Esplanade Hotel & Empire Bar, (08) 9173 9700, 2-4 Anderson St, Port Hedland. The Pier Hotel. (08) 9173 1488, 25 The Esplanade, Port Hedland.

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iconic pilbara pubs The Pier Hotel Once named Toughest Pub in the World in a 1970s feature article penned by English journalist John Dyson, the Pier Hotel of today is the town’s nightspot of choice for a cold pint and a dance. The Esplanade Much of Port Hedland’s histor y unfolded within the walls of the sprawling Esplanade Hotel. Now housing trendy-as-theycome Empire Bar; ser ving up cocktails and craft beer and remains the backbone of the town’s social scene.

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The Whim Creek Hotel A Pilbara icon and the perfect pit stop bet ween Roebourne and Port Hedland, 120-something year old Whim Creek Hotel has been battered by cyclones, housed a beer swilling camel and sated many a North West traveller’s thirst with cold beer. Today it is run and operated by Ngarluma Yindjibarndi Foundation and Ngarluma Aboriginal Corporation and provides opportunities for local Aboriginal people.


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The Ironclad Marble Bar’s first hotel was built in the 1800s and still retains its corrugated iron cladding and popularit y as a prime pastoralist’s watering hole among the red ranges today. The Tambrey Tavern The Tambrey Tavern boasts the biggest beer garden in the Pilbara and has maintained its position as a Karratha landmark for more than 20 years.

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scene stealers—the section big header land on the big screen

Scene stealers The big land on the big screen

Image cour tesy of Good Dog Enterprises

R abbit Proof Fence The true stor y of three East Pilbara aboriginal girls forcibly taken from their families, their daring escape and 1,500 mile journey home along the rabbit-proof fence that bisects Australia. Red Dog (2011) & Red dog: True Blue (2016) Filmed in Perth and the Pilbara, the Award winning feature film series ex plores the Australian legend that is RED DOG (2011), his discover y on the road to Dampier and his ultimate rise to stardom, by Filmmaker Nelson Woss.

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ARMCHAIR ADVENTURES—THE PILBARA ON PAPER

armchair adventures The pilbara on paper K angushot The Life of Nyamal Lawman Peter Coppin The powerful stor y of Peter Coppin, or Kangkushot, his life in the Pilbara and his involvement in the 1946 Aboriginal workers’ strike, the first of its kind in the nation’s histor y. Nor’ Westers of the Pilbar a Breed Jenny Hardy ’s fascinating record of the Pilbara’s pioneers has become a classic of the North West since its 1981 publication. Red Dog By Louis De Bernieres. The Captain Corelli’s Mandolin author penned an utterly charming adaptation of the stor y about Karratha’s legendar y red kelpie which has since been made into a major motion picture. Discovery Tr ails to Early Earth By Martin Van Kranendonk and Jean Johnston is a geological traveller’s guide to the East Pilbara that leads readers through its ancient landforms.

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giddy up—the pilbar a horse r acing circuit

giddy up The Pilbara horse racing circuit. From Kununurra to Derby, Broome to Newman, and Port Hedland to Pannawonica, horse racing is big in the North West and the carnival atmosphere is electric. Racing season kicks off in May and runs until August, with cup days in Port Hedland, Marble Bar, Newman and Roebourne the highlights. You’ll find most of the towns’ population trackside; dressed to the nines, taking a punt and watching the horses.

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giddy up—the pilbar a horse r acing circuit

Marble Bar Cup— T y pically the first weekend of July. Pack a swag and a ball gown - this is one weekend-long shindig. Roebourne Cup— T y pically late July. Put on your glad rags - but prepare for some dust. This track is red dirt Pilbara st yle. Port Hedland Cup— The first Monday in August. This annual day of revelr y starts early and runs late.

Newman Cup— Late August. Kick up your heels at “the track that fell off the back of a truck” the only fully grassed racetrack in the North West. For up to date information on the race rounds and rodeos pop in to the Visitor Centre’s at each town or check the fix tures at www. visitporthedland.com

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Joining the dots An arts and cultural trail In the Pilbara there are four art centres, each with a general focus on acr ylic painting and fibre arts. Located in Roebourne are Yinjaa- Barni Art and Roebourne Art Group. The newly-opened Spinifex Hill Studios in Port Hedland is home to the Spinifex Hill Artists, notable for their diversit y in artistic st yles. In Newman lies the phenomenally successful Martumili Artists, a group that also ser vices six remote communities within the Shire of East Pilbara.

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All art centres in the Pilbara welcome visitors and offer the chance to see the artists at work. Making a visit is a truly wonderful opportunit y to gain insight into the astonishing diversit y of ex periences within the Pilbara, a region that is in a period of unprecedented social, economic and geographical change. The chance to share their stories empowers the artists, and revenue from sales is crucial to supporting communities as well as the oldest continuing tradition of art in the world.


Roebourne Art Group

Spinifex Hill Artists

Yinjaa-Barni Art

Martumili Artists

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aboriginal art centres—the martumili artists

Abor igina l A rt Centres

The Martumili Artists Newman

With a brand new home in the East Pilbara Art Centre in Newman, Martumili Artists ser vice the Martu people of the Western Desert. A commitment to showcasing the diversit y, integrit y and strength of the Martu culture has accelerated the rise of this art group to gain international recognition. A visit to the new art centre, studio and galler y provides a unique insight into this rich and vibrant culture. The Martu people are comprised of more than eight language groups including Many jily jarra, Kartujarra, Putijarra and Warnman. ‘Martu’ is a Many jily jarra word for ‘one’ or ‘man’ and Martu Countr y stretches from the Percival Lakes, Lake Disappointment, and along the Canning Stock Route to the Northern Territor y

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border. Operating in the largest geographical shire in Australia, Martumili ser vices the communities of Jigalong, Parngurr, Iringadji (Nullagine), Punmu, Kunawarritiji and Warralong. The long distances and remote places make for a logistically complex operation, but the abilit y to work in communit y is crucial to the artists. Many of the Martu artists are senior custodians of Martu cultural heritage who use their arts practices as a conduit for passing on knowledge of countr y and culture to younger family members and the wider communit y. Martumili Artists have been central to the emerging recognition of the East Pilbara as a cultural hub of ex tensive Indigenous heritage and artistic excellence in greater Australia.


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Make it Happen

Martumili Artists (08) 9175 1020 East Pilbara Art Centre Newman Dr, Newman visit www.martumili .com.au Info— The Martumili Art Galler y is open 10am—4pm Monday to Friday. Check the website for seasonal opening hours How to get there— Martumili Art Galler y is housed within the East Pilbara Art Centre, nex t to the Shire of East Pilbara buildings in Newman.

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aboriginal art centres—the martumili artists

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aboriginal art centres—the martumili artists

Lef t & Below: East Pilbara Arts Centre. Photograph © Robert Frith—Acorn Photo 2016

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Make it Happen Spinifex Hill Studio (08) 9172 1699 18 Hedditch Street, South Hedland www.spinifexhillstudio.com.au Info— The studio is open to the public 9am to 5pm T uesday to Friday and 10am – 2pm on Saturday How to get there— South Hedland is located 15 minutes south of the Port Hedland Visitor Centre.

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aboriginal art centres—spinifex hill artists

Abor igina l A rt Centre

spinifex hill Artists south hedland The Spinifex Hill Studios are home to the Spinifex Hill Artists, Port Hedland’s only professional Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artist collective. As one of the emerging Aboriginal art centres in Australia, Spinifex Hill Artists have been making significant advances on the national stage since opening their new studios in 2014. The art centre welcomes beginner, mid-career and established Aboriginal artists and provides access to materials, creative and professional training and arts education. With over 40 core members regularly working in the studio from Banjima, Kariyarra, Martu, Noongar, Nyiyaparli,

Innawongka and Yamatji cultural groups, Spinifex Hill Artists do not have a signature aesthetic, but are becoming known for a spectacular range of st yles and a diversit y of stories. Notable artists include William Nyaparu Gardiner, Winnie Sampi, Doreen Chapman, Maggie Green and Owen Biljabu. The studios also host national and international artists for visits and residences, and hold regular workshops for the general communit y. The public are ver y welcome to visit the Spinifex Hill Artists at work from T uesday to Friday 9.30am-3.30pm and on Saturdays from 10am-2pm.

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aboriginal art centres—spinifex hill artists

Above: 14-260 Minyawe Miller, Jambardi, acrylic on canvas, 91. 5x91. 5cm, 2014 Right: 15 -102 Doreen Chapman, Untitled (detail), acrylic on canvas, 2015

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Karijini National Park Be drawn into the heart of the wilderness. 36

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Make it Happen Karijini Visitor Centre (08) 9189 8121 Banjima Drive, Karijini WA 6751 Karijini Eco Retreat (08) 9425 5591 www.karijiniecoretreat.com.au

Spectacular 200,000 square kilometre Karijini National Park is a destination unmatched for those lucky travellers who have experienced her 100-metre gorges, primeval mountains and sparkling waterfalls. West Oz Active adventure tours run professionally guided, high activity canyoning and roping adventures in Karijini’s restricted ravines, providing all the equipment to hike, float, and abseil. Alternatively, Lestok Tours offer informative, guided walks bet ween gorges and beautiful lookout points, with picnic lunches and hours to squander in pools and swimming holes. Lestok also runs tours of Rio Tinto’s Iron Ore Mine Site, one of the world’s largest open cut iron mines from Tom Price. Karijini Eco Retreat couples an outback eater y offering high-end Indigenous fare and African safarist yle luxur y tents with ensuites, five star furnishings and all the creature comforts. You can also bird-watch, sight-see, camp and ex plore the flora and fauna at this ancient and astounding Pilbara landmark

West Oz Active +61 438 913 7 13 www.westozactive.com.au Lestok Tours (08) 9189 2032 www.lestoktours.com.au Info— The ideal times to visit the park are late autumn, winter and early spring. Winter days are warm and clear, but nights are cold and sometimes frost y. How to get there West Oz Active tours are based at Karijini Eco Retreat of f Weano Road, Karijini National Park. Lestok Tours are based in Tom Price. Hedland Visitor Centre.

WALK TRAIL GUIDE

Adventure Tours

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Flash floods can occur at Karijini. If it rains while you are in the gorges, please leave gorges safely and promptly.

Warning!

Class 5 These trails are difficult and a high level of fitness and agility is required. Trail markings are minimal, and steep sections with vertical drops are common. Expect to encounter natural hazards including large boulders; pools of water; slippery, wet rocks; and narrow, high ledges.

Class 4 These trails are moderately difficult and over variable surfaces – they require a good level of fitness. Expect steep gradients and natural obstacles including rocks and shallow pools.

These trails are defined and may include steps; loose surfaces; uneven ground; and short, steep sections.

Class 3

Class 2 These walks are well defined with some steps and generally gradients are gentle.

TRAIL CLASSIFICATIONS Gorge Rim 2km – 1.5 hours return Follow the rim of the gorge between Circular Pool Lookout and the beginning of the Fortescue Falls Track. White-barked snappy gums grow in the car park around the edge of the gorge and shady groves of native cypress shelter on the cliff face beneath the track. Enjoy the wonderful views into Dales Gorge.

Marandoo View 500m – 30 minutes return Follow the path from the Mount Bruce car park to view the Marandoo Mine Site. Excavation of ore for overseas markets began in July 1994.

Mount Bruce Summit 9km – 6 hours return Use the early morning hours to take the route that leads up the western face of the mountain, past Marandoo View. This challenging walk will reward you with spectacular views of the landscape.

Dales Gorge 2km – 3 hours return Experience gorge wildlife at close quarters from this creek-side trail between Fortescue Falls and Circular Pool Trail.

Joffre Falls 3km – 2 hours return Most of the trail is class 4, but the last 150m (descent into the bottom of the gorge) is class 5. Follow the marked route into the bottom of the gorge to the first pool downstream of the waterfall.

Handrail Pool, Weano Gorge 150m – 30 minutes return Access to Handrail Pool begins at the end of the lower Weano Gorge Trail. Use the handrail to climb down.

Hancock Gorge 400m – 80 minutes return From the trailhead sign, follow the trail to the edge of the gorge then negotiate the ladder to the bottom. Walk downstream to Kermits Pool. The trail ends here.

Lower Weano 1km - 1 hour return From the shelter, take the trail to Weano Gorge, then the steps to the bottom. Turn right to walk down the gorge.

Circular Pool 800m – 2 hours return Follow the path from the car park, descending the steps down a steep slope to the bottom of the gorge. Ramble along the gorge floor to the fern-framed pool. Take a dip before retracing your steps.

Upper Weano 1km - 45 minutes return From the information shelter, take the trail north towards the top of Weano Gorge.

Oxer Lookout From Junction Pool Lookout to Oxer Lookout the trail is narrow with loose rocks in patches. Please take great care.

Oxer and Junction Pool lookouts 800m – 30 minutes return At Junction Pool Lookout enjoy breathtaking views of Hancock Gorge. If continuing to Oxer Lookout, please see below.

Experience the spectacular views, precipitous cliffs and narrow passages. Banded iron rock formations tower over the valleys far below.

Helping you make the right choice

Karijini walk trail guide

Kalamina Gorge 3km – 3 hours return Descend the steps into the gorge to explore the waterfall upstream, or stroll quietly on lemon-scented grass besides the stream; you may see fish in the rock pools. The trail ends at Rock Arch Pool.

Hamersley Waterfall 400m – 1 hour return This track begins as steps, allowing access for most visitors. Ever-changing light and astonishing colours and reflections highlight the complex geological forces in this spectacular landscape.

This gorge has dramatic colours, textures and reflections.

HAMERSLEY GORGE

This is a great introduction to the gorge system with its delightful trail and picnicking area.

HANCOCK AND WEANO GORGES KALAMINA GORGE

Follow the trail down the gorge and return when you reach the steps.

Knox Gorge 2km – 3 hours return As you climb down and scramble along the gorge, notice the fig trees clinging to the richly coloured walls. Skirt several pools and return from the ‘Gorge Risk Area’ sign.

Knox Lookout 300m – 15 minutes return As you take the steps down to the lookout, watch the view spread out in the distance. It’s spectacular in the early morning or late afternoon light.

Joffre Lookout 100m – 10 minutes return Rock steps take you down to the lookout to view this spectacular curved waterfall forming a natural amphitheatre, which is especially impressive after rain.

Appreciate the power of water shaping the landscape. There are impressive waterfalls, and deep, cold pools. See for yourself how the gorges were formed.

JOFFRE AND KNOX GORGES

Optional 300m detour from Fortescue Falls.

Fern Pool

Fortescue Falls 800m – 1 hour return Reach the waterfall by following the trail from the car park, negotiating steps and a narrow section of the trail.

See the tranquil sunken gardens, deep sedgefringed pools, and permanently cascading waterfalls.

The second-tallest peak in WA lies about 36km west of the park office. Here is a great opportunity to view the Marandoo Mine Site.

Honey Hakea Track 4.6km – 3 hours return From the car park at the base of Mount Bruce, take the path to Marandoo View. From here, follow the track to another vantage point further up the mountain. See the vegetation patterns of the mulga on the flats surrounding Mount Bruce.

DALES GORGE

MOUNT BRUCE (Punurrunha)

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38 The Pilbar a Pathfinder


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marble Bar

Scratch beneath the surface. find hidden secrets.

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Geo Discovery Trails

In the eastern Pilbara, an expanse of 3,500,000,000 year old earth crust reveals remnants of colossal volcanic eruptions, ancient rock forms, beautiful ‘Marble Bar’ (which is really jasper), and the earth’s most ancient traces of life, stromatolites.

Closely resembling the microorganic origins of life on Earth, the formations provide an exclusive insight into what the world was like at the beginning of time. Pick up a copy of Discover y Trails to Early Earth, a traveller's guide to the East Pilbara which maps six trails fanning out from Marble Bar and take a Geo Discover y Trail delving back into deep time. While you’re there, ex perience the quirk y gold rush town that branded itself into the

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histor y books in the 1920s as the place with the longest ever heat wave, when the mercur y hovered above 37.8 degrees for 161 consecutive days. Call by the former Comet Gold Mine, now a museum, and cool off at Coppin’s Gap swimming hole. Have a pint at the iconic Iron Clad Hotel, ex plore Flying Fox Lookout or find Corunna Downs hidden W W II Air Base. Time your visit to make it to the incomparable Marble Bar Cup, four wheel drive out to Carrawine Gorge or buy a prospector’s license and seek your own golden lump of fortune.


marble bar

Make it Happen Marble Bar Visitor Centre (08) 9176 1008 20 Francis St, Marble Bar Comet Gold Mine (08) 9176 1015 Hillside - Marble Bar Rd Marble Bar Info Published by the Department of Mines and Petroleum, Discover y Trails to Early Earth is available at the Port Hedland Visitor Centre (08) 9173 17 11 . Maps of the town are available at Marble Bar for directions to places of interest. How to get there Marble Bar is 200 km south east of Port Hedland off the Great Northern Highway. Comet Gold Mine is located 7.5 kms from Marble Bar town via the Hillside— Marble Bar Road.

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Good things come to those who bait

pilbara coast

Image courtesy of Mackerel Islands. mackerelislands.com.au

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Fishing is top-notch all over the Pilbara, from the Montebello’s to the Mackerel Islands to the Dampier Archipelago and West Moore Island. Fishing safaris abound on the islands off Onslow. Located 20 minutes from Onslow by boat, the Mackerel Islands provides an opportunit y to visit or stay on wild untamed islands with world–class fishing, diving and snorkelling in protected waters by charter or private boat. T wo of the ten Mackerel Islands offer accommodation - Thevenard Island and Direction Island. On Thevenard are 12 beachfront cabins and 38 single or t win ensuite rooms; and on Direction Island a solo beach shack sleeping up to 8 can be booked as a private island castaway ex perience.

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The Montebello Islands are home to shoals of coral trout, red emperor, sail fish and marlin. A cr ystal clear seascape encompassing more than 100 limestone islands and virgin coral reef where the British tested their atomic weapons in the 1950s, 75 nautical miles off Onslow. This group of islands is a fisherman and historian’s dream. Weeklong fishing safaris leave from Exmouth bet ween April and October. F urther north along the Pilbara coast, you can book a charter or hire a vessel and head out with a packed lunch, bait and ice to ex plore the Geographe Shoals or take a guided tour of the island’s secret fishing spots and feast on oysters fresh from the rocks at low tide.


section header Images courtesy of Mackerel Islands. mackerelislands.com.au

Make it Happen Off the coast of Dampier Discover y Cruising’s Skipper Brad will guide you through some of the 150 beaches of the archipelago, to Sam’s Island and past huge LNG carriers to see the tugs in action. And just an hour and a half south from Port Hedland West Moore Island Lodge is a fishing utopia running blue water, creek and shore fishing for ever y thing from red emperor to giant trevally and barramundi.

Onslow Tourist Centre (08) 9184 6644 Second Ave, Onslow

Along the entire Pilbara coast bet ween July and September whale watchers can get up close and personal with big, beautiful humpbacks as they migrate.

Skipper Brad Discover y Cruises +61 408 801 040 www.discoverycruising.com.au

Mackerel Islands (08) 9184 6444 www.mackerelislands.com.au Montebello Island Safaris +61 419 091 670 www.montebello.com.au West Moore Island Fishing Lodge (08) 9184 5145 www.westmooreisland.com.au

Info Recreational fishing guides, including details of size and bag limits, can be obtained from Pilbara Visitor Centres or the Department of Fisheries at www.fish.wa.gov.au.

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Inland & pastoral Pilbara.

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A world away from room service.

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inland & pastor al pilbar a—a world away from room service

Farmstays

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Pia Thornett

Experience life on an outback station, mustering cattle, horse riding or fourwheel driving alongside some of the men and women who know the Pilbara best. Pardoo Station is a working cattle station and one of the growing number of operating farms opening their homesteads to visitors in a refreshing antidote to the cookie cutter hotel vacation.

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Photograph by Ian Filleul

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Photograph by Alison Newbold

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Photograph by Paul Cunningham

Surrounded by wide rolling landscape, the farmstead is about countr y st yle hospitalit y. Find yourself station star-gazing around a crackling campfire or watching jackaroos muster 7000 cattle into the yards by four wheel-drive and helicopter. At 400,000 acre Indee Station, home of the annual Indee500 desert motocross race, you can spin stories with the family at happy hour, learn about the nearby quarries or ex plore farm relics from bygone days. F urther inland at Paraburdoo, Cheela Plains is a family cattle station in the heart of the rangelands with ancient paperbarks, prett y gorges and river pools and a Southern Hemisphere star show lighting up the night sk y.

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Living on stations has taught me to live in the moment; each day is a different challenge, a different reward.� Narelle Bettini, Pilbara Stories

Make it Happen Pardoo Station (08) 9176 4930 off Great Northern Hw y, Pardoo www.pardoostation.com

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Indee Station (08) 9176 4968 off Great Northern Hw y, Indee Cheela Plains Station (08) 9189 8084 off Nanutarra/Munjina Rd (Hw y 136) www.cheelaplains.com.au Info It’s worth calling ahead to find out when the mustering season is on for a true Australian outback ex perience. How to get there Pardoo Station is on the Great Northern Highway about 120 kms east of Port Hedland. Cheela Plains is on the Nanutarra/Munjina Road 130 kms west of Tom Price, Indee Station is 70 kms south of Port Hedland on the Great Northern Highway.

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Photographs cour tesy of Polar Aviation

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The magic of flight

Nullagine, Goldsworth y and remote communities

charter flights

Aviation is a way of life in the Pilbara, making everyday things like mail runs and doctor visits possible for the people who call a sparsely peopled 500,000 square kilometre expanse of country home.

Make it Happen Polar Aviation +61 419 955 210 Port Hedland International Airport www.polaraviation.com.au Info At $400 per hour, Polar Aviation can tailor a trip to your needs and budget, from a half hour flight around town to something more adventurous. Polar Aviation is located at both Port Hedland International and Newman Airports. Suggested images

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Pilots in light planes deliver weekly sacks of letters to faraway roadhouses, judges to small-town courthouses and miners to satellite quarries. You can discover communities, pastoral stations, remote mines and ex ploration sites from the loft y angle of Royal Flying Doctors. Take to the skies and trace the Pilbara’s bare horizons on a joy flight with Polar Aviation, which operates scenic and

charter flights out to those hidden gems in the Pilbara less easily accessed by road. Sweep over the yawning harbor and the net work of tidal creeks that give Port Hedland its Aboriginal name, Marrapikurinya, in reference to their hand shaped formation. Fly over Goldsworthy, the Pilbara’s first iron ore mine or travel out to the quaint old gold rush town of Nullagine, population now 200.

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experience the west pilbara coast

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The red dog route K arr atha, Roebourne, W ickham, Cossack and Point Samson.

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experience the west pilbar a coast

Karratha, a borough spanning more than 15,000 square kilometres and encircling the Woodside operated North West Shelf Venture’s Karratha Gas Plant, Pluto Gas Plant and Rio Tinto’s Iron Ore and Salt Operations, takes its name from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘good countr y ’. This area is the home of Red Dog, a wandering cattle dog who embodied the character of the Pilbara and captured the hearts and imaginations of first the town and then the nation, inspiring a bestselling novel and blockbuster film. At Dampier, a home to coconut palms, sandy beaches, and Sam’s Island – a coastal atoll commandeered by a war veteran aboard a raft lashed to 44 gallon drums, you’ll find a statue paying tribute to the mercurial mutt. Sharing civic borders with the

Image cour tesy of Good Dog Enterprises

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experience the west pilbar a coast

Make it Happen economic engine rooms of iron ore, salt and natural gas is Roebourne on the banks of the Harding River, where the Yinjaa-Barni Art Centre and Roebourne Art Groups render the loveliness of their land on canvas and the Old Gaol holds its dark histor y in artefacts and timeworn photographs. Ladies Day at the Roebourne racecourse pits st yle against setting, the highlight of the social calendar drawing fine threads, champagne f lutes and high heels to a windy red dirt track. Visit Wickham’s 1973 picture gardens or the sometime ghost town of Cossack, which once homed Japanese pearl divers and now hosts several hundred artists each year at the most isolated acquisitive art award of its kind in regional Australia, the Cossack Art Awards. Overnight at the deep water port of Point Samson, the Pilbara’s favourite seaside holiday village, where the tidal inlets are chock full of barramundi and mud crabs and the locals drive over from neighbouring towns just for the fish and chips dished up at the local tavern.

Karratha Visitor Centre (08) 9144 4600 Lot 4548 De Witt Rd, Karratha www.karrathavisitorcentre.com.au Roebourne Visitor Centre (08) 9182 1257 Old Gaol, 5 Queen St, Roebourne www.roebourne.org.au North West Shelf Venture Visitor Centre (08) 9158 8292 Burrup Peninsula Rd, Karratha Roebourne Art Group (08) 9182 1396 27 Roe Street, Roebourne www.roebourneart.com.au Yinjaa-Barni Art (08) 9182 1959 Lot 3 Roe St, Roebourne yinjaa-barni.com Info Karratha, Roebourne, Cossack, Point Sampson, and Dampier are in close proximit y of each other, approximately t wo hours’ drive south-west of Port Hedland along the North West Coastal Highway. Alternatively you could fly into Karratha Airport.

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The Dampier Peninsula and Millstream Chichester National Park Take a real trip.

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Make it Happen Ngurrangga Tours +61 423 424 093 www.ngurrangga.com.au Karratha Visitor Centre (08) 9144 4600 Lot 4548 De Witt Road, Karratha www.karrathavisitorcentre.com.au Roebourne Visitor Centre (08) 9182 1257 Old Gaol, 5 Queen Street, Roebourne www.roebourne.org.au

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Info Ngurrangga Tours run several tour options from a four-hour petrogly ph tours and overnight camping trips at Millstream Chichester National Park. Millstream Chichester National Park is approximately 150 kms south east of Karratha. Millstream Homestead is within the Park open daily, it is not staffed but rangers and campground hosts frequently visit and maintain this facilit y


Aboriginal Cultur al and Rock Art Tours. The Pilbara’s rock art is up to 30,000 years old, predating the UNESCO World Heritage listed Lascaux Caves and encompassing the highest concentration of rock art in the world. Ngurrangga Tours are led by a local Indigenous guide whose people have called the area home for tens of thousands of years, and travel to the Burrup petrogly phs on the peninsula, at Deep Gorge and Hearson’s Cove. Your guide will show you some of bet ween 100,000 and a million ancient car vings of figures and animals

like the Tasmanian Tiger on ramparts of rock and ex plain the significance and meanings behind them. You’ll learn about bush tucker, how to live off the land and will visit old camping grounds where the region’s first people used to live and hunt to hear their creation stories. Ngurrangga Tours run full-day and overnight four wheel drive ex peditions to the waterholes and cultural sites at Millstream Chichester National Park and Gregor y ’s Gorge, considered the birthplace of much of North West WA’s Aboriginal culture. Lush, rolling Millstream Chichester National Park enfolds the Fortescue River with gorges, palm lined pools and plent y of bushst yle camping facilities and is a place of high cultural significance for all Indigenous people. Stop at P y thon Pool, a freshwater rock pool at the base of the Chichester Range or nap on the pillow y riverside reed beds at the old Millstream Homestead. The Pilbar a Pathfinder

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newman & tom price sleep somewhere wild and antamed

Photograph by Simon Phelps

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newman and tom price

Off-road & four wheel drive adventures. Venture off the beaten track with a map and a four wheel drive and discover untouched wilds and thrilling drive tracks around Newman. The mining town is home to the celebrated Martumili Artists, the larrikin who once made international headlines taxiing a plane down the main street to the pub and to Mount Whaleback, the world’s biggest open cut iron ore mine at five km long. Its back yard is an outback adventure playground where you’ll find a 10 000 to 100 000 year old meteorite crater or a cascading three-tiered watercourse at the end of rough and rock y tracks. Strike out for Karlamilyi National Park or find views spanning across the Pilbara from Tom Price’s Mt Nameless. Ex plore far flung waterholes like Running Waters or camp the night beneath dazzling, star-filled skies at Carrawine Gorge. Find Kalgan’s Pool and Eagle Rock Falls, Wanna Munna Aboriginal rock car vings or Weeli Wolli permanent spring, or for the highly ex perienced four wheel drive fanatics, pack your spares and take on the epic “t wo t yre track” to Stuart’s Pool.

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newman and tom price

Make it Happen Newman Visitor Centre (08) 9175 2888 Crn Newman Drive, Newman www.newman.org.au Tom Price Visitor Centre (08) 9188 5488 1 Central Road, Tom Price WA www.tomprice.org.au Info Maps and detailed information about four wheel drive tracks and camp sites are available at the Newman and Tom Price Visitor Centres. Before you ‘go bush’ remember to plan your route through the Newman or Tom Price Visitor Centres, carr y ex tra water, and check the road conditions. The Tom Price Visitors Centre is located on 1 Central Road, Tom Price. Newman Visitor Centre is on Newman Drive, Fortescue Avenue, Newman.

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pannawonica saddle up

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pannawonica—saddle up

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Photograph by Claire Paddison

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Photograph by Lillian Frost

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Photograph by Leanhe Rowley

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Photograph by Sarah C arless

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Make it Happen Shire of Ashburton (08) 9188 4444 w w w.ashburton.wa.gov.au Info Find details on the rodeo at w w w.pannawonicarodeo.com.au Get There Pannawonica is accessible off the North West Coastal Highway and is around 195kms from Karratha.

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pannawonica—saddle up

ROBE RIVER RODEO In the first week of September at Pannawonica the population doubles, fringed chaps are donned, horses stamp their hooves and spectators hoist themselves onto fences ready for the annual Robe River Rodeo. Cowboys kick the dust sk y high on the back of steers and broncos and there are barrel races, steer wrestling and roping events, camp drafting and a g ymkhana for youngsters. Anyone can sign a waiver and throw their hat into the ring to have a go riding a bull in the open steer race. Winners are v ying for the All Round Cowboy and Cowgirl

crown, trophies, sashes and prize money. Challengers who also participate in camp draft events at the Tom Price and Newman Rodeos are automatically in the running for the Pilbara Perpetual Trophy. Camping is free for the duration and funds raised at the event go back into the tight knit communit y. While you’re there take a four wheel drive track out to splash in shaded swimming holes at the rodeo’s namesake Robe River and scour the rocks for ancient rock car vings at the gateway to Millstream National Park. In the inland Pilbara at the foot of Pannawonica Hill, past an old gum tree whose branches hang heav y with boots like weird fruit, a 1970s purpose-built mining town hosts a rodeo event like no other.

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Adventure Pathways Through The Pilbara and Beyond.

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north from Port Hedland, on route to the Kimberley, you can ex perience the life of a modern day drover at De Grey or Pardoo cattle stations, stray east to Australia’s hottest town, Marble Bar, or pull off the Great Northern Highway at Cape Keraudren Recreation Reser ve or Eight y Mile Beach to ex perience Western Australia’s iconic white sandy beaches and clear blue sea. From the Warlu Way and the Canning Stock Route, and with Port Hedland as your launchpad, we have mapped five great adventure pathways through the Pilbara, a region as exciting as it is wide. Adventure awaits.

the burrup peninsula the dampier archipelago

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Port Hedland is the junction where adventure pathways through the Pilbara meet. South-east on the Great Northern highway you can ex plore the wild, rugged beaut y of Karijini National Park with its spectacular natural gorges, waterfalls and pools, the vast open cut mines of Newman and the studio of the worldrenowned Martumili Artists. To the south, off the North West Coastal Highway is the enchanting Millstream Chichester National Park, bounded by the spinifex lined Chichester Ranges where the Fortescue River feeds flowing streams and freshwater pools perfect for swimming. Following the coast road further south will bring you to neighbouring Karratha and the hamlets of Dampier, Roebourne, Point Sampson and Cossack, home to the iconic Red Dog, ancient rock art, top notch fishing and one of the most advanced integrated gas production systems in the world. On the road

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All distances shown are from Port Hedland 1. 2.

Port Hedland South Hedland (20km)

To Broome

The Road South

20 eighty

Roebourne (202km) Cossack (216km) Point Sampson (222km) Karratha (242km) Dampier (263km) Millstream Chichester National Park Pannawonica Onslow

(95 min from PH)

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Cape keraudren

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beach

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3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

19 pardoo

port hedland

18 station

(PH)

1 2 3h

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4

whim creek (1hr 15 min from PH)

3

11

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4 hr to

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millstream chichester national park

karijini national park (3 hr 10 min from PH)

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16

The Road EAST (to Karijini)

auski roadhouse

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11. 12. 13. 14.

Indee Station (55km) Karijini Naitonal Park (281km) Tom Price (417km) Parabadoo (477km)

The Road East (to Newman)

14 15

Great northen Hwy

5

15. Newman (455km) 16. Nullagine (297km) 17. Marble Bar (203km) The Road North 18. Pardoo Station (122km) 19. Cape Keraudren Recreation Reserve (152km) 20. Eighty Mile Beach (375km)

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Make it Happen

Contact Details Newman Visitor Centre (08) 9175 2888 Cnr Newman Drive, Newman WA w w w.newman.org.au Tom Price Visitor Centre (08) 9188 5488 1 Central Rd, Tom Price WA w w w.tomprice.org.au Karijini Visitor Centre (08) 9189 8121 Banjima Dr, Karijini WA 6751 Karijini Eco Retreat (08) 9425 5591 off Weano Road, Karijini National Park w w w.karijiniecoretreat.com.au Info Roads through Karijini have sealed and unsealed sections and while the roads are graded regularly, 4W D vehicles and low speeds are recommended. How to get there Karijini National Park is a five hour drive from Port Hedland via the Great Northern Highway and Karijini Drive and three hour drive from Newman.

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Karijini Tree. Photograph by Nicole Yardley

The Road East South-East of Port Hedland the Great Northern highway unfurls inland like a great grey ribbon past the wonder and grandeur of Karijini National Park to Newman, Meekatharra and Mount Magnet. A place like Karijini needs time. Take a week or at least a few days getting the blood pumping canyoning, trekking and swimming through its labyrinth of plummeting gorges and allow its quiet majest y to seep into your being. Return to a road that threads inland, through Newman, where you can visit the Martumili Artists at their studio or tour Mt Whaleback’s epic five-kilometre-long open cut mine- the flipside of the coin to Port Hedland’s Port operations tour before driving on to the yawning mid north.

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The Road North From Port Hedland, head north along the Great Northern Highway, Broomebound. Stop overnight at Pardoo Station for a memory-making station stay, detour a few days to Marble Bar with its pretty jasper, swimming holes, iconic wild west pub and exgold mine and make sure to fill up at remote Sandfire Roadhouse.

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At Eight y Mile Beach, which is renowned for its phenomenal fishing and shell collecting, you’ll find 80 Mile Beach Caravan Park, a beachfront park with self contained cabins. Just a few hours drive further north, you’ll find Ramada Eco Beach Resort, set on one of the most secluded stretches of sand in the countr y. Around the next corner, discover exotic Broome; a magic town of luxury, wilderness, desert and sea.


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Make it Happen

Contact Details Pardoo Station (08) 9176 4930 Great Northern Hw y, Pardoo WA 6721 w w w.pardoostation.com Marble Bar Visitor Centre (08) 9176 1008 11 Francis St, Marble Bar w w w.eastpilbara.wa.gov.au Eco Beach Resort (08) 9193 8015 323 Thangoo Station Great Northern Hw y, Broome w w w.ecobeach.com.au Broome Visitor Centre (08) 9195 2200 1 Hamersley St, Broome w w w.visitbroome.com.au Info F uel stations are few and far bet ween on the road from Port Hedland to Broome, make sure to research and plan your fuel stops accordingly. How to get there All destinations are off the Great Northern Highway northbound from Port Hedland.

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The Road South South of Port Hedland off the North West Coastal Highway is Millstream Chichester National Park, an incongruously lush and tropical haven of gentle hills, billabongs and serene gorges where fresh water springs nourish verdant paperbarks and palms.

Learn about Aboriginal songlines, stories, bush food and medicines on Country from traditional Ngarluma people on Ngurrangga Tours’ expeditions through the park. Visit Dampier’s monument to world famous Red Dog, explore the ghost town of Cossack or relax and sample some of the region’s famed fish and chips at Wickham’s Port Wallcot Yacht Club, or stop in at Point Samson’s Honeymoon Cove, a beautiful sandy beach and fishing hot spot protected by fringing coral reefs. Further down the coast visit the fishing utopia of Onslow, snorkel off the Coral Bay and Exmouth coast, and make for World Heritage listed Shark Bay. Here you can swim with whale sharks, see stromatolites at Hammelin Pool and find humpback whales, loggerhead turtles and the world’s largest dugong population in its sheltered waters.

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Photograph by Christian Fletcher

Make it Happen Contact Details Roebourne Visitor Centre (08) 9182 1257 Old Gaol, 5 Queen St, Roebourne w w w.roebourne.org.au Karratha Visitor Centre (08) 9144 4600 Lot 4548 De Witt Rd, Karratha w w w.karrathavisitorcentre.com.au Onslow Tourist Centre (08) 9184 6644 Second Ave, Onslow Exmouth Visitor Centre (08) 9949 1176 Murat Rd, Exmouth w w w.visitningaloo.com.au Shark Bay World Heritage Discover y & Visitor Centre (08) 9948 1590 55 Knight Tce, Denham w w w.sharkbay visit.com.au

Info More detailed information about West Pilbara attractions is available from the Roebourne Visitor Centre, just t wo hours from Port Hedland and an ideal stopover close to Millstream Chichester National Park and gateway to the towns of Cossack, Dampier, Karratha and Point Samson. How to get there Millstream Chichester National Park is on the Roebourne to Winternoon Road in Roebourne. Shark Bay is 900kms from Roebourne and 550kms from Coral Bay along the North West Coastal Highway.

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The Canning Stock Route Take on the fabled and truly hardcore Canning Stock Route through three of WA’s remote deserts. There is so much more to this road than the drive. The 1800 km 4WD track from Wiluna to Halls Creek cuts through the Great Sandy, Gibson and Tanami deserts and was established by Aboriginal stockmen in the early 1900s.

The C anning Stock Route near Well 4 6 . Photograph by Tim Acker. FORM , C anning Stock Route Project.

Travelling along the C anning Stock Route, 20 07.

The two week trek is steeped in rich culture and history and riddled with ancient Indigenous rock art sites. It is considered one of Australia’s greatest four wheel driving adventures. Permits are required to travel through private and Aboriginal Lands, parts of the track are only accessible by high clearance 4WD vehicles and fuel, water, supplies and services are limited.

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Photograph by Tim Acker. FORM , C anning Stock Route Project.


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Make it Happen

Contact Details Canning Stock Route Info Line (08) 9425 2099 or enquiries@canningstockroute. net.au Australian National 4W D Council w w w.anfwdc.asn.au/canning _ stock_route.php or visit w w w.canningstockroute. net.au

Ar tist Charlie Wallabi Tjungurrayi at Kaningarra , 20 07. Photograph by Tim Acker. FORM , C anning Stock Route Project.

Info The best time to travel the Canning Stock Route Bet ween May and September when temperatures are relatively mild. Ex tensive preparations and checking road closures and conditions with local authorities is strongly advised. Information on distances bet ween wells, facilities and available ser vices, car preparation and recommended car and camping equipment is detailed in the information booklet supplied as part of your permit pack. How to get there There are entr y/exit points to both the east and west midway along the track. While not close by, the route can be accessed from Port Hedland via the Great Northern Highway.

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The Warlu Way

The Warlu Way 4WD trail winds through the Pilbara, Kimberley and Gascoyne following Aboriginal songlines. Guided by interpretive signage, the 2500 km Warlu Way follows the path of the warlu, or Dreamtime sea serpent who journeyed through the area creating waterways. It passes through Karratha, the Dampier Archipelago and Burrup Peninsula, Roebourne, Cossack and Point Samson and cuts across Karijini and Millstream Chichester National Parks, Port Hedland, Marble Bar, Cape Keraudren and Eighty Mile Beach to Broome.

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Make it Happen Contact Detailed brochure for the Warlu Way can be downloaded from the Australia’s North West Tourism website at w w w.warluway.com.au. Info Some roads may require a permit. How to get there Brochure guides and signs point the way, starting any where from Exmouth to the inland Pilbara.

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Directory Listings

PORT HEDLAND

Port Hedland Courthouse Gallery (08) 9173 1064 16 Edgar St, Port Hedland, 6721 mail@courthousegallery.com.au www.courthousegallery.com.au Spinifex Hill Studios (08) 9172 1699 18 Hedditch St, South Hedland, 6722 www.spinifexhillstudio.com.au

tourism & attractions

Port Hedland Visitor Centre Tours | Souvenirs | Wifi (08) 9173 1711 13 Wedge St, Port Hedland, 6721 info@visitporthedland.com.au www.visitporthedland.com.au Seafarers Centre Tours | Souvenirs | Wifi (08) 9173 1315 Wilson St, Port Hedland, 6721 admin@phseafarers.org www.phseafarers.org Iron Ore Facility Tour via Port Hedland Visitor Centre (08) 9173 1711 Local History Tour: via Port Hedland Visitor Centre (08) 9173 1711 Harbour Tour: via Seafarers Centre (08) 9173 1315 Polar Aviation (Charter Flights) +61 419 955 210 Port Hedland International Airport www.polaraviation.com.au Care for Hedland Environmental Association Turtle Monitoring Program (September-April) Reef Walks (seasonal) +61 447 907 661 www.careforhedland.org.au

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Dalgety House Museum (08) 9173 4300 cnr Wedge & Anderson St, Port Hedland, 6721 Don Rhodes Mining Museum (08) 9173 1711 Wilson St, Port Hedland, 6721 Matt Dann Theatre (08) 9158 9368 35 Hamilton Rd, South Hedland, 6722 mdinfo@porthedland.wa.gov.au www.mattdann.com Wanangkura Stadium (08) 9140 0400 Hamilton Rd, South Hedland, 6721 Wanangkura.stadium@ymca.org.au www.porthedlandleisure.com.au Gatwick Aquatic Centre (08) 9173 3303 McGregor St, Port Hedland, 6721 www.porthedlandleisure.com.au Marquee Water Park – Splash ‘n’ Play Cottier Dr, South Hedland, 6722 Marapikurrinya Park cnr Richardson & Wedge St Port Hedland, 6721 Glass Lane Park crn Glass Lane & Anderson St Port Hedland, 6721 Leap Park crn Wedge & Anderson St Port Hedland, 6721


Pretty Pool Beach Matheson Dr, Pretty Pool, 6721 Yikara Park (Pirate Park) Yikara Dr, Pretty Pool, 6721 Cemetery Beach Park Sutherland St Foreshore Port Hedland, 6721 Shopping Centres

Port Hedland Boulevard Woolworths | Speciality Retail | Café/ Restaurants +61 408 955 900 150 Anderson St, Port Hedland, 6721 South Hedland Square Coles | Kmart | Speciality Retail Café/Restaurants (08) 9303 7300 9-31 Throssell Rd, South Hedland, 6722 southhedland@charterhall.com.au www.southhedlandsquare.com.au Hotels

Port Hedland The Esplanade Hotel (08) 9173 9700 2—4 Anderson St, Port Hedland, 6721 info@ehph.com.au www.theesplanadeporthedland.com.au

Motel/ Self contained

Port Hedland

The Pier Hotel (08 9173 1488 25 The Esplanade, Port Hedland, 6721 info@thepierhotel.net.au www.thepierhotel.net.au Bruno’s Ocean Lodge (08) 9173 2635 7 Richardson St, Port Hedland, 6721 brunosoceanlodge@bigpond.com Caravan Parks

Port Hedland

Discovery Parks Port Hedland Freecall: 1800 459 999 Cnr Athol and Taylor St Port Hedland, 6721 porthedland@discoveryparks.com.au www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au South Hedland Black Rock Tourist Park (08) 9172 3444 2115 North Circular Rd, South Hedland, 6722 reception@blackrockcp.com.au www.blackrocktouristpark.com.au Port Hedland Golf Club (08) 9172 2046 Great Northern Hwy, South Hedland, 6721 phgolfclub@bigpond.com www.phgolfclub.com.au

Hospitality Inn (08) 9173 1044 Cnr Sutherland & Webster St Hotel/ Motel Port Hedland, 6721 Port Hedland Airport porthedland@hospitalityinns.com.au www.porthedland.wa.hospitalityinns.com.au Port Haven (08) 9172 9600 The Ibis Styles Great Northern Hwy, Port Hedland, 6721 (08) 9173 1511 porthaven@phcci.com.au Cnr Lukis & McGregor St www.phcci.com.au/port-havenPort Hedland, 6721 accomodation.aspx H1900-re01@accor.com www.accorhotels.com.au

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Mia Mia (08) 9140 1725 Lot 2444 Great Northern Hwy, Port Hedland, 6721 bookings@miamia.com.au www.miamia.com.au The Landing (08) 9172 4111 945 Great Northern Hwy, Port Hedland, 6721 bookings@thelandingph.com.au www.thelandingph.com.au The Walkabout (08) 9172 1222 944 Great Northern Hwy Port Hedland, 6721 reservations@walkabouthotel.com.au www.thewalkabouthotel.com.au South Hedland Port Tourist Park (08) 9172 4111 945 Great Northern Hwy South Hedland, 6721 bookings@thelanding.com.au The Lodge (08) 9172 2188 5-13 Hawke Pl, South Hedland, 6722 enquiries@thelodgemotel.com.au www.thelodgemotel.com.au South Hedland Motel (08) 9172 2888 7 Court Pl, South Hedland, 6722 admin@southhedland.com.au www.southhedlandmotel.com.au ESS Gateway Village (08) 9174 4708 901 Nimingarra Court South Hedland WA 6722 bookings@gatewayvillageph.com.au www.gatewayvillageph.com.au

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Self-contained

South Hedland

Club Hamilton Motel (08) 9158 5180 Cnr Hamilton Rd and Hudson Way, South Hedland, 6722 hamilton.reservation@morriscorp.com.au Other accomodation

Turner River (08) 9172 5191 Lot 7 Manilinka Dr, Boodarie, 6722 turnerriverlodge@bigpond.com www.turnerriverlodge.com Restaurants / Eateries

Port Hedland

Restaurant 1904 & The Empire Bar (08) 9173 9700 2-4 Anderson St, Port Hedland, 6721 info@ehph.com.au www.theesplanadeporthedland.com.au The Pilbara Room (08) 9173 1044 Cnr Sutherland & Webster St, Port Hedland, 6721 porthedland@hospitalityinns.com.au www.porthedland.wa.hospitalityinns.com.au Dome (08) 9173 1557 Cnr Kingsmill & McKay St, Port Hedland, 6721 www.domecoffees.com.au Bruno’s Pizzeria and Ristorante (08) 9173 1440 The Recreation Club, Keesing St, Port Hedland, 6721 Harbour Cafe (08) 9173 2630 Wedge St, Port Hedland, 6721


Port Hedland Yacht Club (08) 9173 3398 Lot 5550 Sutherland St, Port Hedland, 6721 admin@phyc.com.au www.phyc.com.au Wedge Street Coffee Shop (08) 9173 2128 12 Wedge St, Port Hedland, 6721 Bernie’s Place (08) 9173 4342 Port Plaza, 4 Edgar St, Port Hedland, 6721 South Hedland Last Chance Tavern (08) 9172 5888 Throssell Rd, South Hedland, 6722 info@lastchancetavern.com.au www.lastchancetavern.com.au Chef Bistro (08) 9140 1168 South Hedland Bowling and Tennis Club 1 Hedditch St, South Hedland, 6722 Rakias Family Restaurant (08) 9172 1000 13/ 22-26 Throssell St, South Hedland, 6722

South Hedland

Caltex (08) 9172 1068 Hamilton Rd, South Hedland, 6722 www.caltex.com.au BP (08) 9172 1680 Cnr Throssell Rd & Forrest Circle South Hedland, 6722 medical

Port Hedland Port Hedland Medical Centre (08) 9173 3733 7 Edgar St, Port Hedland, 6721 reception@porthedlandmedical.com.au www.porthedlandmedical.com Port Hedland Family Practice (08) 9174 7600 Shop 5, Boulevard Shopping Centre, Wilson St, Port Hedland, 6721 www.porthedlandfamilypractice.com.au Port Hedland Dental Clinic (08) 9173 5838 3/10 Wedge St, Port Hedland, 6721 porthedlanddental@westnet.com.au

Bombay Spice (08) 9172 3721 3 Throssell Rd, South Hedland WA 6722

Hedland Dental Surgery 1800 230 230 1/19 Edgar St, Port Hedland, 6721 enquiries@hedlanddc.com.au www.hedlanddc.com.au

Satay House Unit 4, 2—5 Throssell Rd South Hedland WA 6722

South Hedland

Service Stations

Port Hedland

Caltex Woolworths (08) 9173 5193 150 Anderson St, Port Hedland, 6721 www.caltex.com.au Coles Express South Hedland Roadhouse (08) 9172 3239 Lot 5553, NW Coastal Hwy South Hedland, 6722

Sonic Health Plus (08) 9172 5911 10 Hedditch St, South Hedland, 6722 southhedland@sonichealthplus.com.au www.sonichealthplus.com.au Hedland Health Campus (Hospital) (08) 9174 1410 2—34 Colebatch Way, South Hedland, 6722 Wirraka Maya (Aboriginal Health Service) Includes Dental at Wirraka Maya (08) 9140 2922 17 Hamilton Rd, South Hedland, 6722 stephenm@wmhsac.com www.wmhsac.com The Pilbar a Pathfinder

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THE ROAD EAST Tom Price & Karijini NATIONAL PARK

Tom Price Visitor Centre (08) 9188 5488 1 Central Rd, Tom Price, 6751 www.tomprice.org.au visitor.centre@ashburton.wa.gov.au

Savannah Campground (part of Eco Retreat) Online booking preferred www.karijiniecoretreat.com.au Newman

Karijini Visitor Centre (08) 9189 8121 Banjima Dr, Karijini National Park, 6751 parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/site/karijini-visitorcentre Mining Tour: via Tom Price Visitor Centre, (08) 9188 5488 Karijini Day Trips: via Tom Price Visitor Centre or Lestok Tours, (08) 9189 2032 Karijini Adventure Tour: West Oz Active Adventure Tour via Karijini Eco Retreat, (08) 9188 8013 Tom Price Motel/Hotel (08) 9189 1101 1 Central Rd, Tom Price, 6751 Tom Price Tourist Park (08) 9189 1515 Nameless Valley Dr, Tom Price, 6751 www.tompricetouristpark.com.au Windawarri Lodge 1800 992 777 1 Stadium Rd, Tom Price, 6751 Karijini Eco Retreat (08) 9425 5591 Off Weano Rd, Karijini National Park reservations@karijiniecoretreat.com.au www.karijiniecoretreat.com.au Camping in Karijini Dales Campground (via a sealed road) Unpowered and generator sites Please note it’s not possible to book ahead so arrive early to avoid disappointment during the peak season (June – August)

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Newman Visitor Centre (08) 9175 2888 Cnr Newman Dr, Newman, 6753 nvcshop@bigpond.net.au newman.org.au Mine Tour: via Newman Visitor Centre (May to September), (08) 9175 2888 Seasons Hotel (08) 9177 8666 Newman Dr, Newman, 6753 stay@seasonshotel.com.au www.seasonshotel.com.au Kalgan’s Rest Caravan Park (08) 9175 1428 Kalgan Dr, Newman, 6753 www.newmanaccommodation.com.au Whaleback Village (08) 9175 2802 1983 Cowra Dr, Newman, 6753 www.newmanaccommodation.com.au Newman Visitor Centre Chalets (08) 9175 2888 Newman Dr & Fortescue Ave, Newman, 6753 STATION STAY

Indee Station (08) 91764968 Great Northern Hwy, Indee, 6721 (65kms from Port Hedland) KEY ROADHOUSE

Auski Roadhouse (and Tourist Village) (08) 9176 6988 Great Northern Hwy, Juna Downs, 6751 (corner Wittenoom Meekatharra Road)


THE ROAD SOUTH Karratha

Point Sampson

Karratha Visitor Centre (08) 9144 4600 Lot 4548 De Witt Rd, Karratha, 6714 KVCCounter@karrathavisitorcentre.com.au www.karrathavisitorcentre.com.au

Fishing Charter: (08) 9184 5145 via West Moore Island

Boat Tour: Discovery Sailing Adventures +61 408 801 040 Cultural Tour: Ngurrangga Tours +61 423 424 093 Industry Tour: via Karratha Visitor Centre (08) 9144 4600 Pilbara Holiday Park (08) 9185 1855 70 Rosemary Rd, Karratha, 6714 pilbara@aspenparks.com.au www.aspenparks.com.au Best Western Karratha Central Apartments (08) 9143 9888 27 Warambie Rd, Karratha, 6714 www.karrathacentral.bestwestern.com.au The Ranges Karratha 1300 639 320 Lot 1090 De Witt Rd, Karratha, 6714 reservations@therangeskarratha.com.au www.therangeskarratha.com.au Roebourne

Roebourne Visitor Centre (08) 9182 1257 Old Gaol, 5 Queen St, Roebourne, 6718 info@roebourne.org.au www.roebourne.org.au Harding River Caravan Park (08) 9182 1063 De Grey St, Roebourne, 6718 reservations@hrcp.com.au www.hrcp.com.au

The Cove Holiday Village (08) 9187 0199 Lot 259 Macleod St, Point Samson, 6720 reservations2@capitalgc.com.au www.thecoveholidayvillage.com.au Samson Beach Chalets (08) 9187 0202 44 Bartley St, Point Samson, 6720 www.samsonbeach.com.au Point Samson Resort Chalets (08) 9187 1052 56 Samson Rd, Point Samson, 6720 www.pointsamson.com West Moore Island Fishing Lodge: (08) 9184 5145 West Moore Island (between Port Hedland and Karratha) fish@westmooreisland.com.au www.westmooreisland.com.au Dampier

Boat Cruise Tour: via Skipper Brad Discovery Cruises +61 408 801 040 Island Tour: via Montebello Island Safaris, +61 419 091 670 Dampier Transit Caravan Park (08) 9183 1109 Esplanade, Dampier, 6713 Dampier Mermaid Hotel & Motel (08) 9183 1222 5 Nielson Pl, Dampier, 6713 info@dampiermermaid.com.au www.dampiermermaid.com.au

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Onslow

KEY ROADHOUSE

Onslow Tourist Centre (08) 9184 6644 Second Ave, Onslow, 6710 www.ashburton.wa.gov.au onslowtc@bigpond.com

Nanutarra Roadhouse (and accommodation) (08) 9943 0521 North West Coastal Hwy, Nanutarra, 6751 (approx. 40 kms South of Onslow turnoff) info@nanutarra.com.au www.nanutarra.com.au

Island Tour: Mackerel Islands (08) 9184 6444 Mackerel Islands (08) 9184 6444 Thevenard Island, Onslow, 6710 bookings@mackerelislands.com.au mackerelislands.com.au Onslow Sun Chalets (08) 9184 6058 Lot 588 Second Ave, Onslow, 6710 enquiries@onslowsunchalets.com.au bookings@onslowbeachresort.com.au www.onslowchalets.com.au Onslow Beach Resort (08) 9184 6586 Second Ave & Bird St, Onslow, 6710 www.onslowbeachresort.com.au Discovery Park Onslow (08) 9184 6007 557 Beadon Creek Rd, Onslow, 6710 www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au STATION STAY

Cheela Plains Station (08) 9189 8084 Off Nanutarra/Munjina Rd (Hwy 136) Paraburdoo, 6754 (90 kms west of Paraburdoo) robinpensini@bigpond.com www.cheelaplains.com.au 4x4 Gorge Tour: (08) 9189 8084 via Cheela Plains Station (tag-a-long tour)

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THE ROAD NORTH Marble Bar

Marble Bar Visitor Centre (08) 9176 1008 11 Francis St, Marble Bar, 6760 mbreception@eastpilbara.wa.gov.au www.eastpilbara.wa.gov.au Comet Gold Mine & Tourist Centre (08) 9176 1015 Hillside—Marble Bar Rd, Marble Bar, 6760 (open seasonally) cometmine@bigpond.com www.haoma.com.au Marble Bar Holiday Park (08) 9176 1569 64 Contest St, Marble Bar, 6760 margaret.kiernan@hotmail.com Ironclad Hotel (08) 9176 1066 15 Francis St, Marble Bar, 6760 rosmar2@bigpond.com STATION STAY

Pardoo Station (08) 9176 4930 Bookings not taken for camping —plenty of space Great Northern Hwy, Pardoo, 6721 pardoostation@hotmail.com www.pardoostation.com


KEY ROADHOUSEs

Pardoo Roadhouse (and accommodation) (08) 9176 4916 Great Northern Hwy, Pardoo, 6721 (approx. 150 kms north of Port Hedland) www.pardoo.com.au Sandfire Roadhouse (and caravan park) (08) 9176 5944 Great Northern Hwy Eighty Mile Beach, 6725 (approx. 290 kms north of Port Hedland) sandfirerh@bigpond.com

The small print: FORM/Port Hedland Visitor Centre does not endorse products or services that organisations listed in the Pilbara Pathfinder offer. The Pilbara Pathfinder’s information and maps are intended as a guide and are not to scale. FORM/Port Hedland Visitor Centre accepts no liability for any loss or damage that may be suffered as a result of reliance on this information, whether or not there has been any error, omission or negligence on the part of FORM, or the Port Hedland Visitor Centre, or its employees. Maps in this guide, and linked publications, indicate tracks/roads that are not always maintained and caution should be exercised when travelling on all tracks. FORM/Port Hedland Visitor Centre advise travellers to check with Visitor Centres and Main Roads for the most up to date information on road conditions and necessary permits. Editorial content in the Pilbara Pathfinder is copyright FORM. This edition: 2017.

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Front Cover: Eco Retreat, Karijini. Photograph cour tesy Karijini Eco Retreat

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Back Cover: Photograph by Simon Phelps

Thanks to BHP Billiton, a FOR M Communit y par tner for more than ten years

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The Pilbara Pathfinder 2017  
The Pilbara Pathfinder 2017