Mode Magazine Fall/Winter 2019

MODE Fall/Winter 2019

Margaret Hull

Express Yourself With

The Stor y Behind the Sm College Life, and ile, Living W i Cystic F th ibrosis

Euphoria Makeup See Page 12 ________ Which Feminist Are You? See Page 6

11 Trends To Win With This Winter

Drag Or Get Dragged See Page 23

Natalie Lamb Prutha Chavan Lilja Cormack Emma Bainbridge Maggie Flahive Jacqueline Munro Mandi Ojeda Olivia Vizza Jenn Hoang Maya Ran Grace Fisher Abrianna LoTempio Tara Doherty Hana Schulz Gabriela Wilde

Emily Kaufold Mackenzie Cranna Gino Catalano Peyton Turner Emma Higgins Nina Boggan Lindsay Abel Anya Wiggins James Tampellini Gwen Bischoff Shuyao Lyu Anthony Gambino Claire Reynolds Sarah Flaherty Phil Krehbiel

CREDITS

LAYOUT

STYLISTS Mia McWethy Nina Boggan Claire Silverberg Carson DeLasho Anita Tataj Emily Ferrari Chase Huggins Shuyao Lyu Anna Gaylord

PHOTOGRAPHERS

MODELS 2

Izzi Budetti Sarinnagh Budris Alexandra Ditch Grace Fisher Teresa Jacob Jacqueline Gilpin Ayla Potamkin Maddie Osso Grace Moore Maggie Flahive Paige Keeler Ava Kuehner Sarah Flaherty Anna Gaylord Chiebuka Chioke Kelley Abunaw Anita Adu Manu Valentina Tychalski Nilson Wilson Monica Santiago Gracie Anderson Jacqueline Moran Laura Glynn Maria Costello Lucy Doherty Caroline Conway Mia McWethy Genesis De Leon Chase Huggins Jade Jeffrey Teylor Veliotis Amanda Blaze Christina Chao Gabriella Owens Nina Boggan Subin Yoo Mia Kroeger Claire Silverberg Audrey Johnston Grace Kubelka Carson DeLasho Amanda Cipriano Teresa Jacob Anita Tataj Lily Hoke Shuyao Lyu Jack Debruin

Muhammad Ameen Shaikh Caroline Hughes Paige Keeler Lindsay Abel Erin Foley Jingqing Zhou Peyton Turner Ellen Sweeney Stephen Pastore Caleb Rocha Sarah Flaherty

Erin Foley Peyton Turner Jeffrey Pelayo Mackenzie Merriman Gino Catalano Sage O’Dell Katie Schulte Max Quintas Haley Ledford Prutha Chavan Jessica Laemle Meah Nizan Sarah Crawford Shuyao Lyu Maggie Rothfus Zoë Mader Emily Ferrari Gwen Bischoff Amelia Medved Alexandra Lange Madison Rhoad Sammi Petruzzelli Alexandra Ditch Alicia Chiang Ana Paula Louie-Grover

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‘S MESSAGE A Letter from the Editor in Chief

My vision for this magazine

was to make it more than just a fashion magazine...

I wanted this to be an issue for

EVERYONE.

MACKENZIE MERRIMAN

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stepping into the role of Editor in Chief I knew I had BIG shoes to fill. My vision for this magazine,was to make it more than just a fashion magazine. I have passions far beyond just fashion. Fitness and lifestyle being two of those, and I know many of our members do as well. I wanted this to be an issue for everyone. One goal I had was that I wanted to take our creative layout to the next level. There is always room for improvement, and with the largest amount of MODE members our club has ever seen, if any time would be the time to utilize our strengths and number, it would be right NOW! I can honestly say, in this case, “Ask and you shall receive.” My MODE family provided the content of my dreams.

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At first, I believed I was dreaming far beyond the possible that I wanted to be EIC of MODE Magazine before I graduated. At least this is what I told myself.

But, here I am about to close my first magazine with an amazing team behind me. This is one of those “pinch me” moments they tell you about. As we come to a close on this semester’s magazine, I could not imagine not being in the exact spot I’m in now. This magazine has come so far, growing each semester that I have been apart of it. It has been an unforgettable experience. I have so much pride in the work we have produced as a club. I

started as a club member, then a blog team member and now it is crazy to think that I am wrapping up my first semester as Editor in Chief. My own work included, this magazine has made leaps and bounds in all the right directions.

To see mine and the MODE team’s creative thoughts come to life and all the hard work poured into this magazine by so many peers is remarkable. It puts me at a loss for words. While I still have a lot to learn for next semester, I could not be more proud of this issue and these people that made this magazine possible and my first semester as EIC, so great.

Our cover star for our Fall/Winter 2019 issue features Margaret Hull (GSB ‘20), a true embodiment of overcoming adversity and living life to the fullest, no matter the circumstances that are thrown her way.

She was born with Cystic Fibrosis but you would never know it. She is much more than her disease and knows that life itself is as well. Read my interview with Margaret on Page 16.

Table of Contents

LIFESTYLE BEAUTY MEET MARGIE

6 Female Motivations & Feminism 7 Demystifying the Diet 8 Fitness Without Guilt 9 The Subscription Box Industry 10 Just Do It 11 Decades of Beauty 12 Euphoric Beauty 13 Neon: Taking Over the World 14 Curls, Coils, & Kinks 15 Who’s Getting Duped 16 Meet Margie 20 Stars & Signs 21 What to Know About Age Gap Relationships 22 Bisexuality: Learning to be Comfortable with Your Identity 23 Drag or Get Dragged 24 Frontin’ with a Clothing Line 25 Better than the Boys Would Wear it 26 History of the Battle Jacket 27 Reduce, Reuse, UPcycle 28 Sustainable Activewear 29 The Art of Storytelling 30 The Art of Fashion Advertising 31 Fall/Winter Trends

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT OTHER

LOVE & RELATIONSHIPS FASHION

32 Greta Thunberg 33 Three Female Artists that Invigorate & Empower 34 Poetry-Pop is the New Face of Music 35 How the New Faces of R&B are Reviving the Genre 36 How Afrobeats Have Influenced the Fashion Scene in West Africa 37 Expectations vs. Reality: Fordham Edition 38 Blog Spotlight 39 Meet the E-Board

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FACING FEMINISM

By Morgan Marty - Illustrations By Grace Mcarthy Sometimes I wonder if I am the only woman out there questioning my motivations. When my grandparents were young, a high school diploma could get them a decent job, a steady income—a purpose in life. My grandparents married young. They had kids young. But as their kids grew up, things changed.

Society changed. Social standards changed. More women were pursuing careers. And because it takes women twice as long as men to reach the peak of most jobs, these women held off on their personal lives. They postponed marriage, babies, and white picket fences.

Our generation—fueled with fires that ignite women’s marches through Washington and demands for equal pay—makes me feel guilty to want the life my grandparents were offered. Of course I want a college education, but am I a weaker woman if I choose to settle down early? As I scroll through my Instagram I can’t help but notice the weddings and babies popping up along with my feminist agenda feed.

Does shattering glass ceilings apply to more than one lifestyle? Can I be a twenty-first-century woman with yoga pants and a carpool? I’m not saying I don’t want to work, but if I choose a job that makes me “time rich” over “money rich” in order to pursue family, am I still, in this generation, considered a feminist?

Feminism (n.) fem·​i·​nism “The theory of the political, economic, and social equality of the sexes.”

– Merriam Webster We asked Fordham students: “Do you consider yourself a feminist?”

YES

95%

NO

5%

Which Feminist Are You?

Gemma Chan

“I think women can be just as interesting and flawed [as men].”

– ELLE

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Megan Thee Stallion

“I’m not scared to say what’s on my mind. ... If the boys can do it, we can do it too.”

– Mic

Reese Witherspoon

“I encourage women to step up.

Don’t wait for somebody to ask you.”

– InStyle

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Demystifying the Diet:

Your Guide to Understanding the Keto Diet, Whole 30, and Intermittent Fasting

By Natalia Kimmelshue

Keto

We get it. You want the spring break body, and everyone is raving about the latest craze, promising it will change your life. You aren’t sure what all the diet slang means, and, frankly, you’re skeptical they even work. Take this article as your trusty advisor that will help you break through the noise of today’s fads and be real with you on the most popular “diet challenges” so you can make your own decision. Here’s the breakdown:

Consisting of healthy fats and minimal carbs, this method is rooted in ketosis, a process in which the body begins to burn fat instead of carbs, making rapid weight loss possible. The plan reduces appetite by suppressing your hunger hormones, reducing inflammation, and fueling your brain. Plan to focus on fish, eggs, meat, vegetables, nuts, olive oil, avocados, and beans. Watch out for dehydration, muscle cramps, and a lack of fiber—all are common side effects felt by those on the keto-bus.

Whole 30 Also low-carb, the Whole 30 differs from other plans in that it is a short-term reset, lasting only one month (doable—right?).

On the menu: vegetables and fruit, chicken, fish, eggs, and healthy fats. However, added sugars, grains, and dairy are cut out—creating a shortage of vitamins and proteins in one’s diet. Remember to plan ahead and look into meal planning, as Whole 30 is not a good fit for a gal on the go. After one month, you can slowly reintroduce your previously canceled food groups. While many lose weight during the thirty days, research has shown that it is difficult to sustain that weight loss.

Decisions, decisions. . . . If one of these diets sounds right for you, give it a go—but don’t be afraid to treat yourself every once in a while.

Intermittent Fasting This weight loss method advises eating during a window of time and fasting during the rest of the day. The most popular approach is 16:8, or fasting for 16 hours and eating for 8.

There are no limits on which foods you eat (Woohoo!), but since the ultimate goal is a decrease in calorie intake, the key is not to binge during the eating period. When fasting, your hormone levels change to facilitate weight loss, lowering insulin, increasing metabolic rates, and releasing a fat-burning hormone called noradrenaline. Studies have shown that intermittent fasting has powerfully positive effects on your brain and body and may even help you live longer.

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Fitness Without Guilt

By Amanda Blaze

F

controversial: unless it’s your job, working out can never be your

itness journeys are first priority. People are busy, and idolized in the that’s completely okay. Make media and in sure to check in and ask yourself: life. You see Am I still doing this for all the before me? Does a workout and after genuinely fit into my pictures, with day or will it just their smiling make my day too faces and new, lean stressful? And bodies. It’s possibly most importantly, am I pushing myself too hard? If I inspiring to can answer these see how much hard questions work they have “People are busy, and that’s confidently, put in, how strict completely okay.

Make sure to then I know they are about their diets and check in and ask yourself: Am I I am doing what’s best for schedules. However, still doing this for me?” myself. that’s really only one How do side of the story.

I’m going to say something you remove guilt

I love fitness, don’t from fitness? get me wrong. I’ve even I truly believe had a fitness journey of that you have my own. Two to be working years ago I shuddered out in the at the thought of right mindset for it to exercise and would be a positive addition get winded going up stairs. to your life.

Working Today I can happily say I’ve found out or being fit does not equal a passion for fitness and am able your self-worth. Being happy to enjoy my life to the fullest with yourself needs to come without my body holding me back. first. Don’t work out because But this essay isn’t about losing you hate your body, work out weight or workout routines, it’s because you love your body. about guilt. How many times a day do you see society glorifying the physically fit? People who go to the

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gym are considered “better” than the ones who don’t, not to mention the influencers on social media glamorizing their fit bodies and workout routines.

It affects me, too. After years of feeling bad about my body and fitness level, I knew that I had to be careful about monitoring my emotional health while trying to improve myself physically, or else I would never be able to sustain my new lifestyle change.

The Subscription Box Industry: an Unboxing

Image via subscriptionly.net

By Haley J. Ledford

FabFitFun, BirchBox, Ipsy, Material World, BoxyCharm, Stitch Fix, Trunk Club—the list goes on. Today, in the same way that there is an app for everything, there is a subscription box for everything. Anyone can get virtually anything personally curated and delivered to their front door. But how do all these different subscription services manage to survive in an industry that is as oversaturated as influencers on Instagram?

First and foremost, in order to understand the world of the subscription box, we need to separate them into two categories: curation and supply. Two Harvard business school graduates, Katia Beauchamp and Hayley Barna, launched Birchbox in 2010 when social media and digital marketing transformed the way people consumed products. They felt this was an area in which the industry could expand and thrive. This new beauty market allowed people to find quality beauty products with ease.

BirchBox paved the way for boxes such as FabFitFun, a company now valued at $1.1 billion. These beauty-inspired boxes targeted a diverse market, leading the beauty industry to experience economic growth of 100% annually between 2011 and 2016, according to PitchBook. Originally, FabFitFun boxes were filled with products hand selected by their stylists and were then delivered to customers’ front doors as a monthly surprise.

Now, according to co-founder Daniel Broukhim in a conversation with PitchBook, the company is using artificial intelligence combined with customer input to specify which products are best suited for each customer. “We are using [artificial intelligence] to increase personalization in what gets sent to a customer,” Broukhim said. “We want to create one-of-a-kind experiences that draw people in.”

The visible success of companies, such as BirchBox and FabFitFun, has inspired the fashion industry to take the plunge into subscription boxes, but with its own twist. Boxes like Frank & Oak allow a style plan for women with sustainable fabrics and the option to preview their selections to see if the products sent enhance their style. Returns are free with only a $25 styling fee for minimalist, modern-looking clothing with a sustainable mission.

Contemporary powerhouse VINCE has recently hopped on the subscription bandwagon and has demonstrated how brands offer new ways to buy the styles they already have in production that season. These curational boxes are slightly different than “refill boxes,” such as Dollar Shave Club, where companies reissue items to the customer on a monthly basis with a subscription. Refill boxes offer a convenience for busy people, while curation boxes are based on unique selections of fun products for customers to try out, which encourages future patronage to brands sampled.

As the direct-to-consumer market expands and subscription boxes continue to achieve high dollar investments, the industry will continue to grow along with its variations such as mail-order customizable vitamins, shampoos, and protein powders. The age of the internet is taking direct-to-consumer into a whole new space, inside and outside of the box.

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Just Do It I

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BY MARISA FATA

’m the girl that purposefully chose to go to college close to home. I’ve always had a tight-knit family that spends maybe a little too much time together. Being close to home allowed me to continue to take part in Sunday dinners, birthday celebrations, and surprise coffee dates without any difficulty.

When the “study abroad” discussion started brewing among the junior class, a bit of panic hit me. I was so fortunate to have this opportunity in front of me, so how could I not take it?

I was torn between wanting to take advantage of the once-ina-lifetime experience and being terrified of leaving my comfort zone.

But I went for it, and I can say without a doubt that it was easily the best decision I have ever made.

Let’s be honest, studying abroad is a glorified four-month vacation.

Sure, class attendance is mandatory and you have to write a few papers and take some exams, but it’s nothing like a regular semester. The moments that you spend outside of the classroom are the ones that you’ll remember forever.

Somehow, I managed to visit twenty cities and seven countries during my time abroad. I made sure to take advantage of traveling within Europe because of how quick and inexpensive flights and trains were compared to transportation straight from the U.S. While the ease of traveling was amazing, some of the

most memorable and fulfilling weekends I had were in my host city. I can confidently say that I know Milan better than I know my home city of New York.

Was I horrified when I got off the plane not knowing a single person in the entire city?

Absolutely. It wasn’t peaches and cream every single day. But jumping into something so daunting is exactly what helped me develop confidence and maturity. I had to fend for myself, ask questions when I needed help, and, most importantly, adapt to life here.

Immersing myself in the Italian culture and picking up its unique habits was a unique experience. I found myself attempting to be a Milanese citizen instead of being the out-ofplace American tourist. Of course, speaking a bit of the language helped. I started adapting to the cultural norms, such as not drinking cappuccinos after 11 a.m. and wearing a jacket in seventy-degree weather. I even brought some of these new habits back home with me accidentally.

If I could go back in time, I would have told myself not to be so stingy with money.

Let’s make it clear that I definitely splurged on some stuff and my wallet felt a hit. However, I would tell someone going abroad to buy that extra overpriced Aperol Spritz at the rooftop bar or that adorable sweater from the boutique that they’ve been eyeing all week. You may never have the opportunity to do this again, and you won’t regret creating those memories months from now.

I’ve always made fun of the cliché words “abroad changed me.” I’d be lying to myself if I were implying that those words aren’t true. I am now an improved version of myself, and I can’t even fathom if I didn’t take the risk and “just do it.”

DECADES OF BEAUTY

Even though makeup trends have changed dramatically throughout the decades, they still influence how we do our makeup today.

The ’50s were the epitome of the “Old Hollywood” look that we all know and love, used by movie stars, such as Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe, who sported black cat-eye liner and red lips.

With the British Invasion in full effect, the ’60s were mod-inspired with icons like Twiggy at the forefront. Eyes were widened with dramatically long, false lashes and layered with black mascara to achieve a spider-like effect. White or colored eyeshadow was also popular with graphic eyeliner, typically defining the crease of the eye.

By Carson DeLasho

Makeup looks of the ’70s were extremely natural as hippie culture and women’s liberation movements culminated. A soft brow, a sweep of neutral shadow, a light coat of mascara, and a touch of lipgloss were the norm.

In the nostalgic ’90s, everyone wore thin, plucked eyebrows with simple eyeliner and glossy, heavily lined brown-toned lips for an overall grunge look.

The wave of disco inspired ’80s makeup: vibrant blues, pinks, and purples with a pop of shimmer were goto’s for the eyes, often paired with bright pink blush and magenta lips.

The 2000s were all about frosty pink lips with shimmery, pale-colored eye shadow and rosy cheeks, as seen on stars like Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera.

As the decade nears its closing, the 2010s have featured a range of trends, probably more than most other decades. There were the Kylie Jenner lips, the Kim Kardashian contour, the Cara Delevinge brows, and more.

Present-day makeup basically comes down to looking effortless yet Instagram-ready at all times.

Who knows what will come in the new roaring ’20s?

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euphoric beauty audrey johnston

T

his summer, HBO released the first season expressive and artistic makeup looks of Euphoria, a TV show about the highs including lots of color and, sometimes, even and lows of high school that also tackles tiny drawings on her face. Kat is a shy girl who gains some very serious life topics. Consider it an R-rated confidence throughout the episodes of the show, and Riverdale. The release of shows that through dark, dramatic makeup Euphoria broke the internet that draws the attention of anyone she Makeup for many reasons, one being comes in contact with. Euphoria is one of represents not only its characters’ unique makeup. the first shows to use makeup as a form of who we are, The show is oriented around character expression, making it one of the but also who we a certain aesthetic that still major appeals to the show. feel like being allows each main character on any given day, to have their own proclaimed Doniella Davy’s looks have inspired me who we need personality. The woman to purchase bright colored eyeshadows and behind each individual look add some sparkles to even my most casual to be that day is Doniella Davy, who had looks. I recently bought Glossier’s Glitter for our own the taxing job of translating Gelée in Bijoux Bijoux, several of their emotional survival, the inner monologues of Colorslide eyeliners, and some fun colored or who we the show’s characters into eyeshadows from Colourpop for only $5 aspire to be. the beautiful and eccentric each. Then to finish up recreating some - Doniella Davy makeup seen on each of the of my favorite Euphoria looks, I bought actors. She spoke to Paper some colored rhinestones on Amazon. The magazine about her experience working on the show has given me, and many others, the confidence show: “Makeup represents not only who we are, to express ourselves in a fun way that is unique to our but also who we feel like being on any given day, personality, so don’t be afraid to try it too. who we need to be that day for our own emotional survival, or who we aspire to be.”

There are many characters with amazing makeup, but the main looks I will focus on are Maddy, Jules, and Kat. Maddy is the cheerleaderdating-the-football-player kind of girl, but there is so much more to her character. Her look is very bright, sparkly, and almost always involves rhinestones.

Jules is coming to terms with her own identity as a young transgender woman,who wears very

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By Danielle Poole

NEON

TAKING OVER THE BEAUTY WORLD

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aired with a dewy skin look, the neon eye has taken over the beauty industry starting when Kendall Jenner rang in the new year with her lime eyeliner.

Bold and bright eyes have infiltrated Hollywood from every type of beauty authority. Neon’s impact has seen no limit: the bright orange line across Cara Delivinge’s face at the Met Gala to Tracie Ellie Ross’s imperfectly painted purple eyeshadow along her crease to the usage of neon pink loose eyeshadow powder creating square liner wings in the Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2020 show this past New York Fashion Week. Its versatility has made the trend especially irresistible; neon can be as simple as a swipe of eyeliner—or three to four colors if you’re Rihanna—to well-blended eyeshadow masterpieces. It is the perfect way to inject color into any look. This trend opts for the usage of the brightest of colors on the eyes and combines the perpetual return of the ’80s and the no-makeup look of fresh skin with influence from popular celebrities and YouTube stars. Thankfully, it is a look that is wearable for anyone.

Creating the neon look for yourself is not as difficult as it may seem. Because of the vibrancy it brings to your eye, it may be the focal point of your makeup. With a downplayed, neutral skin look, you can easily swap a typical black eyeliner with any color that will illuminate your skin tone. Eyeliner has an unlimited range of options between its thickness and shape, including options like a double-wing. Shay Mitchell’s makeup artist took the eyeliner options further, putting only a curve of neon green eyeliner in her crease.

If you’re feeling more advanced, multiple bright shades of liquid eyeshadow can be combined creating an ombre look.

The range of options continues when it comes to eyeshadow. Kylie Jenner—arguably one of the most influential celebrities in the makeup community—packed neon yellow eyeshadow solely by her tear duct combined with a neutral colored lid.

Contrastly, a single neon color can paint your entire eyelid—as Camilla Coelho did with fiery red —or blended with additional flare. Olivia Munn’s makeup artist even matched her electric lavender eyelids with the color of her highlighter. A swipe of neon lipstick is also always an option; hot pink is a particularly satisfactory color to start with. Not only are the options unlimited and your creativity boundless with the neon trend, but the results are utterly stunning.

To create these looks, because the neon trend has caught so much attention in the beauty world, there are bountiful products to choose from. This year, Huda Beauty launched three neon obsessions eyeshadow palettes: neon pink, green, and orange. Each palette has nine shades, combining both matte colors and shades with shimmer. Another favorite eyeshadow palette is the Violet Voss neon pressed pigment palette as it allows you to experiment with all the colors of the rainbow. The Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eyeliner Pencil is a perfect go-to eyeliner that comes in a variety of colors.

Its long-lasting, creamy formula is perfect for both a precise line or to be smudged and blended across your lid. Fenty Beauty, keeping up with the neon craze, added the vivid eyeliner trio to their collection, which includes three unique sets of three vividly colored eyeliners.

Neon has taken the beauty world by storm, its influence touching celebrities of all talents and ages. Neon is the perfect statement to any look, and the capturing colors pair perfectly with all skin tones. Possibilities with neon makeup are infinite, and, despite their captivating nature, can be quite effortless to create.

Anyone working with neon makeup becomes a true artist. It’s no wonder why this trend has lasted all year with no apparent end in sight.

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curls coils&kinks

Modeled & Written by Monica Santiago, Jade Jeffrey, & Gabrielle Owens

Products:

OGX Coconut Curls Mousse ($7.89), Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Conditioner ($11.99), Deva Curl Ultra Defining Gel ($10), Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In conditioner ($5.99), Camille Rose Naturals Algae Renew Deep Conditioner ($20), Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk ($15), Kinky Curly Knot Today ($12)

Styles:

Twintails, Bantu knots, Sleek low ponytail, Space buns

Tips:

Don’t wash your hair daily! Washing every day can dry out your hair and damage your curls. Instead, wet and condition your curls daily, while shampooing only one or two times a week to revitalize your curls and preserve your natural oils.

Invest in a silk pillowcase, silk head wrap, or scarf to protect your curls and lock in moisture while you’re sleeping at night.

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Don’t use a regular towel to dry your hair after showering.

Instead, use a microfiber cloth or head wrap. Doing so will help prevent frizz and dry your hair faster without removing essential oils.

Stay away from fine-tooth combs and paddle brushes as they can cause breakage and frizz. Use wide-tooth combs, wet brushes, or your hands while your hair is still mildly wet in order to detangle your curls.

Got baby hairs that just don’t want to cooperate? Lay those edges, girl! All you need is a toothbrush and a container of strong-hold gel. We suggest the Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen And Restore Max Hold Gel ($7.99).

Curly hair varies depending on the type.

The nine types of curly hair are as follows: 2A, 2B, 2C, 3A, 3B, 3C, 4A, 4B, 4C. Once you figure out what category your hair falls into, you can use the products and tips that work best with your hair so you can feel confident in your natural curls!

WHO’S GETTING

DUPED? COMPETITION IN THE BEAUTY MARKET

BY CLAIRE SILVERBURG

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or as long as makeup brands have been releasing innovative products, we’ve also seen competing brands quickly swoop in to release suspiciouslysimilar lines. This has created the long-contested argument: Are “dupes” a way to make makeup more widely accessible, or are they just socially-acceptable, intellectual thefts?

At face value, we want to say that stealing is wrong and that we should buy whichever product came out first and is, therefore, the “original.”

When it comes to makeup, the problem is a bit more complex than just “who came first.” There are luxury brands with products that perform terribly, while there are also dollar store brands with products unmatched in quality. Sometimes “dupes” can improve upon their predecessors.

There have been instances where a trend has originated with independent brands and worked its way up to luxury. The most often way this kind of “duping” happens is when bigger brands make dupes of small independent beauty brands.

In 2016, Bitter Lace Beauty (an Etsy-based independent cosmetics brand) released its famous Prism rainbow highlighter. The design was quickly imitated by both luxury and drugstore brands, which undoubtedly took sales from a shop that struggled to keep up with demand (at the time, Bitter Lace Beauty was a self-proclaimed “oneman show”).

Other duping business practices include brands under the same parent company that produce dupes of each other’s products. When

IOPE first released its cushion applicator sunscreen, it set off a massive Korean beauty trend that was applied to other products and became popular internationally.

Soon after, Etude House (IOPE’s drugstore brand) also started selling cushion dupes, allowing IOPE to reap luxury and low-end profits.

It can be difficult to figure out how your choices as a consumer fit into all this. We can be torn between wanting the best deal and not wanting to support a morallyambiguous business practice. The easiest way to be smart and ethical cosmetics consumers is to take this process into consideration, along with your buying habits, and decide what is most important to you.

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FACING ADVERSITY I sat down with Spring Lake, New Jersey native, Margaret Hull (GSB ‘20), and got the scoop on what’s behind those dimples she so proudly sports on a daily basis. She is a beam of joy and full of smiles, but there is way more to Margie than meets the eye. When I briefly overheard her story, I knew there was a message that needed a light shined on it and a platform to do so.

Interview By Mackenzie Merriman Layout By Mackenzie Merriman & Jordin O’Hara

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nyone who k n o w s Margie has nothing but kind words to say about her. There is something about her bright blue eyes and constant smile that brings light into any room she walks into. You might find it hard to believe but this girl has faced adversity and continues to work through it on a day-to-day basis, all of course with a smile.

The oldest of 4 girls, Margie had a 25% chance of diagnosis. Her parents had no prior knowledge of what could be. They did not know that they were both carriers for a genetic mutation called Cystic Fibrosis, also refered to as CF. Margie was diagnosed at birth.

CF is a recessive genetic mutation and Margie is the only one out of her 3 sisters to have cystic fibrosis.

With CF there is a mutation on the CFTR gene, meaning that this protein is not able to effectively move chloride to the cell’s surface. Because of this, mucus in many organs in the body becomes thick and sticky. The disease and symptoms vary from person to person, since CF is a complex disease. However, common symptoms among patients include persistent coughing with thick phlegm, frequent lung infections, wheezing and shortness of breath, poor growth and poor weight gain.

Margie has battled CF her whole life, and like any disease, has had her ups and downs. But one thing is for sure, she never lets CF knock her down. As I spoke with Margie, she told me about the treatments she does to battle CF along with her journey thus far.

Her treatments include nebulizer treatments daily, digestive enzymes at every meal, and a treatment that she calls “The Vest”. Essentially the vest vibrates and breaks up the mucus. Through a big grin and a shaking movement, Margie laughs and tells me how much fun she had with this as a kid, saying “I would just shake in it I thought it was so cool haha.”

Margie did not always realize just how sick she was, “I don’t think I fully realized how sick I was until about 6th or 7th grade,” Margie tells me. “It’s a

progressive disease and my parents always raised me normal and never treated me like my disease owned me, I always played sports and was lucky enough to not have many hospitalizations. But in 7th grade, I got pretty sick and had a picc line in my arm for treatments. My doctors called it a ‘tune up’ anytime I would go in for treatments. This was probably the first time I realized just how sick I was.”

But it wasn’t until Hurricane Sandy hit her freshman year of highschool th that things really got put into perspective for Margie. The hurricane left her without power for two whole weeks, meaning no access to nebulizer treatments in the meantime. She had to be hospitalized. She recovered well but she realized what she was facing. It was a scary and eyeopening moment.

Up until recently, CF had only a few drugs that treated a minute amount of the CF population. After being the sickest she had ever been her freshman year of college, Margie was introduced to and began a drug study her junior year of college. In this study, participants could recieve the placebo or the real deal, the drug. While the drug study is still ongoing and the first phase is concluded, the information from the second phase can not be disclosed yet. However, the first phase of the drug study went very well and those who received the drug had great results, such as weight gain and improved lung function.

This miracle drug could not have come at a better time for Margie, her family, and the CF community. When she was born, doctors told her parents: “Do not freakout. There will be something in her lifetime that will help her.” And as I sat and chatted with Margie, her excitement grew as she spoke with much knowledge and pride in her confidence in the upward direction of CF treatment. The FDA has just approved Trikafta, becoming a game changer for the CF community. Trikafta is a triple combination therapy that was just recently approved by The U.S. Food and Drug Administration. The first triple combination therapy available to treat patients with the most common cystic fibrosis mutation. It is approved for patients 12 years and older with cystic fibrosis who have at least one F508del mutation in the cystic fibrosis transmembrane conductance regulator (CFTR) gene, which is estimated to represent 90% of the cystic fibrosis population.

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While treatment for 90% of the CF popultion is groundbreaking and a huge step in the CF community, Margie was sure to acknowledge that clearly there is still 10% who are not affected by this drug and that it is so important to be sensitive to those 10%. This is where the research and donations must continue. The help of the extended community in raising awareness and fundraising is crucial in the medical progress of CF.

Although the trials are still currently ongoing in collecting ample amounts of data, “it has definitely been a time to be alive in the CF community,” Margie tells me.

“A couple years ago these treatments did not exist and people with CF were not living as long, and now its hard to even tell who has CF.” One of her biggest pet peeves she says is when people look at her and only see her Cystic Fibrosis and think of it is a disabling disease. Having a disability, Margie says, “at the end of the day, mentally and physically makes you a stronger person not a weaker one.”

However, Margie joked about the difference in lifestyle of living with CF. At one point she was being told to eat two cheeseburgers a day to gain weight and now that she is in a much healthier state and sustaining a healthy weight, she jokes that she didn’t know a good thing when she had it.

Because let’s be real, what girl doesn’t dream of being able to eat two cheeseburgers a day without weight gain?

I read a quote recently that said, “I have CF, I am not CF,” and I think this quote speaks volumes to Margie.

Margaret, knows where her priorities lie. She gets by with

• Do a “Strides Against CF • Donate to one of Margies • SPREAD AWARENESS! the support of her family and friends, who are always there for her. From going to doctor visits and fundraising with her to treating her like she’s normal and challenging her daily. She tells me that her parents are her biggest inspiration and when asked why, here was her response, “wow...because they had a baby, their first born, and were told their baby has cystic fibrosis. They knew nothing about it and getting told your kid has a disease could be one of the scariest things ever. But they never allowed me to be anything but normal. They raised me normally, challenged me and always supported me.”

I will leave you all with a quote from Margie that hit me especially hard. It opened my eyes and I hope it will do the same for you all, “[living with cyctic fibrosis] you’re just able to empathize...a lot of things that you think matter at the end of the day don’t, basically just where theres a will theres a way.”

“WHERE THERE’S A WILL THERE’S A WAY.” -- Margaret Hull When asked what her number one message is Margie told me: “ I want to inspire people to do whatever they want and can.”

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Margie’s Way To Get Involved:

F” walk s favorite foundations - Boomer Esiason Foundation ! Margie emphasizes the importance of doing your research

“10% 19

H

ave you ever gazed at the stars and wondered how the cosmos affect human beings? What if I told you that celestial objects, such as the sun, moon, and even the planets could reveal characteristics about yourself and those around you? In this article, I will explain what your natal chart is and what it means for you and the people you know.

If you know your zodiac sign—also known as your sun sign— then you’ve already

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those whom you open up to get to see.

In addition to your astrological signs, your natal chart also includes the positions of the planets at the time you were born. Each planet rules over a trait. For example, Mercury rules over communication, Venus rules over love, and Mars rules over your desires and motivations. How you portray each trait depends on where

achieved the first step in deciphering your celestial map.

Our birth dates calculate our sun signs, but our moon and rising signs are determined by the times and locations of our births. Your sun sign describes your personality, character traits, and how you deal with situations. Your moon sign represents how you handle your emotions and respond to the emotions of others. Your ascending sign.tells you t h e f i r s t impression you give to people.

y o u r

planets are housed.

For example, if your Mars is in Leo, then what motivates a Leo is what motivates you. If you find your horoscope to be inaccurate, try researching your moon sign, rising sign, and the position of your planets for more accurate results.

Not everyone believes in horoscopes, but knowing about zodiac signs could help you when interacting with colleagues, peers, friends, family members, significant others, and any other situation where you have

In short, your rising signs are what people see when they first meet you.

Your sun sign, is the part that people see once they get to know you, and your m o o n sign is the part that only

to communicate with another person. If you know a person’s celestial chart, you’ll know how that person thinks, handles his or her emotions, and communicates with other people. You can then use this information to know the best way to relay information to others, work with others, and just overall interact with others. Who knew your horoscope could be so useful in your daily life?

By Monica Santiago

Illustrations by Grace McCarthy

WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT AGE GAP

It’s hard to deny that I’ve always been into guys who are older than me. What can I say? I find their suave demeanor and confidence attractive.

It’s believed that young women often mature faster, which is why they seek out older men. This would make sense since older men are more mature and experienced. There is also a level of unparalleled excitement associated with dating someone older than you.

I often get mixed responses, ranging from positive to negative to disbelief, when people learn that I’m dating a guy who is six years older than me. I believe that everyone, including myself, has a personal limit when it comes to age gaps in their own relationships. As long as the pursuit of said relationships is both legal and consensual, then, by all means, people should explore these new experiences with an open mind. Here are some things that I’ve learned about being in an age gap relationship:

You’ll vary in which activities the two of you find interesting. You might want to party all weekend while your S.O. wants to focus on work and enjoy the occasional happy hour. It will take extra effort to connect on certain things since you’re both in different places in life. Therefore, finding a balance of what you both want is essential to maintaining your own lives without excluding each other. It’s likely that they’ll be very career-oriented and busy at times. As a result, they may not always be able to spend time with you, so

RELATIONSHIPS Alec and Hilaria Baldwin

you may not get the attention that you want.

However, there are a lot of advantages that come with having an older S.O. There’s a good chance their maturity level will be compatible with yours. Moreover, they will most likely be more perceptive of your feelings and receptive to discussing those things with you. They will be upfront with their expectations and won’t be as inclined to “play games.” Your older S.O. will also have more life and sexual experience—an added bonus. They can show you new things and offer a mature perspective, which could open your mind in a new and positive way.

People will always have an opinion on your relationship. Family, friends, and others may believe your older S.O. is using you for selfish reasons, but this is often a misconception.

It’s important to remember that outside perspectives won’t always be negative, and you shouldn’t let negative energy interfere with your relationship.

Regardless of critical reception, it’s your relationship at the end of the day. Although there’s an age gap, this is still like any other relationship that requires the same level of effort, understanding, and compromise. Age becomes irrelevant (as long as it’s legal) if your S.O. is treating you well. What’s most important is that you feel deeply connected to this person, share similar values and interests, enjoy who you are around them, and feel genuinely happy.

By Priyanka Koshy

George and Sarah Paulson and Holland Taylor

Amal Clooney

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BI

sexuality:

Learning to Feel Comfortable with Your IDENTITY

I

n our culture of increasing acceptance of people who don’t adhere to heteronormative standards, there still seems to be confusion surrounding the idea of bisexuality from straight and queer communities alike. As a bisexual woman, I often find myself confused with my own identity. Am I too straight to be considered bisexual? Am I not queer enough? Am I actually feeling sexual attraction to both men and women, or am I just on the cusp of being fully straight or fully gay?

These trends of bisexual invalidity are nothing novel to society. Terms such as “bicurious” suggest that if someone experiments with their sexuality, they are not “worthy” of being queer. It’s not uncommon for bisexual people to feel like their feelings are illegitimate, especially if they’ve only had sexual experiences with one gender. So, how do we make room for bisexuals in the LGBTQ+ narrative?

Education is the surest path to acceptance. While I’ve come a long way in the past few years, I’m still working towards overcoming my self-doubt in my sexuality. It’s not a topic I like to discuss, but it’s an important one. So, to all my beautiful bisexual royalty out there who feel similarly, know that you are not alone. Whether you’re totally comfortable with yourself or you’re still trying to get there (like me), your identity is completely and utterly valid.

By Abbey Cloonan 22

DRAG OR GET DRAGGED

By Monica Santiago

I

t was only a matter of time before drag queens conquered the fashion kingdom.

Though RuPaul’s Drag Race may be the first thing that pops into your mind, you’ll be surprised by where it all began: old-time theater! In sixteenth-century Shakespearean plays, male actors had to dress as female characters because women weren’t permitted to act. Hundreds of years later, drag has become more common. In the ’80s, when androgynous fashions were trending, fashion icons such as Prince and Michael Jackson popularized the gender-bending style.

Toward the late ’80s, with the emergence of the dance style vogue, drag became much more than a trend—it became a lifestyle.

Once upon a time, drag queens were inspired by the avant-garde gowns, extravagant hair, and exaggerated makeup that models showcased on runways. Now, designers are inspired by the ambiguity of drag culture. They are straying away from the typical fashion styles and are taking more risks with their apparel. With the fashion industry under the regime of the drag queens, it’s more common to see men walking down runways wearing 6-inch heels and women in photo shoots wearing tuxedos, like in Ralph Lauren’s fall NYFW 2019 line.

Drag culture was also prominent in the 2019 Met Gala theme—“Camp: Notes on Fashion.” Many drag icons made jaw-dropping appearances, like Billy Porter in his Egyptian inspired ensemble and Lena Waithe in her pinstripe suit that said “Black Drag Queens Invented Camp.”

Drag fashion has even overthrown the hyper-masculinity of rap culture. Young Thug is known for sporting feminine clothing, like in his No, My Name is JEFFREY album cover, where he is posing in an Alessandro Lincone dress. Puerto Rican

rapper Bad Bunny has been recognized for painting his fingernails and dressing in eccentric fashions.

Drag fashion has also played a role in empowering the LGBTQ+ community.

By normalizing androgynous fashions, people are beginning to think of gender as a fluid concept. This perception has helped to change politics, with the legalization of same-sex marriage and legal recognition of transgender lifestyles. The LGBTQ+ community has gained inclusion and representation in various industries including fashion, entertainment, and music, as a result of the drag influence.

The beautiful thing about the art of drag is that it is completely open to interpretation, which allows drag queens to have full freedom of expression. The bigger, more daring, and extraordinary, the better! In the land of the drag queens, the only rule is to be as unexpected and limitless as you choose.

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By: James Tampellini

P

harrell Williams has been making waves in the music industry since one of his first musical collabs with Jay-Z back in 2003 and is regarded as an icon by several legends of the industry. It was in that same musical collaboration for the hit song, “Frontin,” with the Brooklyn-born rapper that Williams first showed off his clothing brand, Billionaire Boys Club (BBC).

The music video showcased several hoodies and T-shirts from the first collection. This would not be the last time that the two artists worked together. In 2011, Jay-Z partnered up with Williams once again, this time the former as part of BBC.

When creating the brand, Williams had an image in mind, “Our

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line is based on exclusivity, it’s not meant to be super commercialized.” However, it wasn’t always smooth sailing for the brand.

Nigo had to leave BBC to focus more on BAPE. Nigo played a crucial role in the creative aspects of the brand from the start, and BBC felt a significant loss.

Despite this, the pair kept in touch and as part of BBC’s tenth anniversary back in 2013, BBC and BAPE released an exclusive collaborative collection. Through Billionaire Boys Club and a utilization of vibrant colors and designs, Williams was able to promote his perspective on fashion.

Better Than the Boys Would Wear It

By Caroline Hughes

An interesting trend around campus as well

as on the streets of New York is girls wearing “boys” clothing, or clothing that is traditionally masculine. This includes, but is not limited to, baggy (or “boyfriend”) jeans, oversized jean jackets, and suit jackets. What is most intriguing about this trend is the reason behind it.

Why is it that women are beginning to wear these clothes?

It seems that women are tired of the clothing that is marketed towards them and desire the looser, more freeing cut of men’s clothes. Historically, women’s clothes have been tighter, shorter, and more revealing than men’s. Another thought-provoking, and perhaps less liberating, aspect of this trend is the rise of items that are marketed with the term “boyfriend”: boyfriend jeans, shirts, sweaters, jackets, and even underwear. This marketing technique is a clear expression of society’s push for young girls to want boyfriends or at least give the impression that they do. The marketing of “boyfriend” items is a sneaky way in which society devalues women: by telling them that they will be important or trendy if they have a man at their side.

On the other hand, this trend is possibly a reaction to traditional women’s clothing styles and long-established marketing practices. It could also be a response to the intense scrutiny and sexualization that women face in respect to their bodies and clothing choices.

A famous example of this is the young artist Billie Eilish, who has publicly stated that she wears baggy clothes to avoid public scrutinization of her body.

From celebrities to our peers, and for whatever reasons, we see that the trend is heavily prevalent. Women wearing men’s clothing is an indication that binary and conventional marketing practices are losing their relevance as our society becomes increasingly less gender-defined and less tolerant of the overt sexualization of women’s bodies.

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History of the

By Anthony Gambino

C

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ut sleeves. Battle jackets. Gang colors.

These are just some of the fashion aliases given to a piece of clothing that had a benign introduction into society but, through the years, has become linked to nefarious groups.

The story begins in the 1940s, when World War II Air Force pilots returned to the states from the war-torn skies over Europe, where every mission could have been their last. Many of these ex-pilots had problems readjusting to the mundane life of peacetime America and sought out an adrenaline fix. It was during this time that the modern day motorcycle club (MC) was born. Proud of their service in the military, many wore their squadron insignia–adorned leather jackets when they rode. In addition to showing military pride, the leather acted as good protection from the elements and crashes, but they were a bit restricting, and the sleeves were eventually cut off.

Enter the “battle jacket.”

Motorcycle clubs gave way to MC “gangs,” the leather was traded in for denim (it was easier to sew patches on denim than leather), and the battle jackets became themselves in the ghettos. These emblazoned with pop culture gangs instituted the term “flying symbols and MC philosophy. The cut sleeves” when referring to their MCs also instituted the infamous crew or a rival gang wearing their three-piece rocker: the club name, battle jackets.

The 1980s saw the explosion of logo, and city. The three-piece rocker is now synonymous with the punk and heavy metal, and although “1%ers,” otherwise known as true the two were at odds many times, a punk or head-banger’s favorite Outlaw Biker clubs.

Fast forward to the late 1960s way to express their fandom was to and ’70s; street gangs of the east emblazon a full back patch of their and west coasts have adopted the musical messiah on their cut-off battle jacket as a way to unify denim.

Today, street-wear brands like Scumbags and Superstars have become a one-stop shop to creating your own “war-torn” battle jacket.

Although their famous storefront display of bizarrely clad mannequins and a giant Rat Fink statue is no more, their vibe survives online.

Everything from weirdo rock-androll patches to bizarre punk pins can be bought so you can transform your dull denim into a full-fledged battle jacket.

Reduce, Reuse, UPcycle

By Nina Carbone & Annie Kinsella

Although H&M still releases some clothing in a disposable manner, it’s still working to become more conscious of its impact on the environment. For example, it recently made sure that over half of its materials are either recycled or sourced sustainably.

Nevertheless, producers are only half of the industry, and the other half is all of us. So how can we, the consumers, embrace sustainability without breaking the bank? Thrifting and upcycling are both cheap ways to be eco-friendly without cramping your style. With the wide variety of clothing sold at thrift stores, you can easily find pieces that fit your unique style.

Thrifting gives high-quality and well-loved clothes new homes to be enjoyed again and again. You can even make your thrifted or old clothes more personalized by “upcycling” them. Upcycling is the process of redesigning old clothes often by sewing, cutting, patching, and reconstruction. Plus, upcycling is a great way to save the environment and your money!

N

othing beats a distinctive navy blue, white, and red Tommy Hilfiger T-shirt. The unmistakable and timeless pattern goes perfectly with a light-wash pair of ripped jeans and makes for the ideal outfit to strut around Soho. The best part? Nobody knows that it only costs a total of $30.

An emerging trend within the fashion industry is circular fashion, which asks both producers and consumers how they can make the fashion industry more sustainable with both parties equally responsible for moving in an eco-friendly direction.

In circular fashion, clothing items are produced by brands using high-quality materials to make those items of clothing last for an extended period of time.

Large companies like H&M, Everlane, and Patagonia strive to produce trendy, high-quality, and moderately-priced items while maintaining ethical standards of production. With climate change and sustainability discussions becoming more prevalent, big companies are facing the fact that customers want clean products.

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@outdoorvoices

If we’ve learned anything from the events at Climate Week NYC this year, it’s that we aren’t doing enough. To go to greater lengths to preserve the environment while also keeping up with the latest fashion trends, sustainable fashion is taking on a new era: the era of activewear as a lifestyle. Moreover, many designers and companies have created full lines of activewear that have been produced sustainably with recycled products.

Activewear made from recycled products is the latest trend in the industry of sustainable fashion, and there are so many companies on the cutting edge of eco-friendly activewear. For example, Alternative Apparel, Outdoor Voices, and Girlfriend Collective are just a few eco-

SUS

@girlfriend

A BLE

TA i N

activewear line and are putting pressure on larger companies to follow suit. As a result, larger brands like Patagonia, Adidas, and Athleta have created sustainable activewear lines. As consumers demand more sustainable practices from their favorite companies, these brands have created full clothing lines made from recycled products.

It’s not enough to be simply fashionable anymore; now you need to be environmentally-conscious as well. Adidas has become a leader in sustainable fashion with a tailored environmental approach in its “Sustainability Roadmap for 2020.” Right now, it’s taking steps to manage water efficiency and quality, to use more sustainable materials in production, and to reduce its energy consumption and CO2 emissions. The merging of active clothing and an environmentally-consciousness mentality is allowing for an entirely new market of sustainable clothing.

These companies are setting the standard of sustainable practices while also educating society by highlighting how a small change can make a big difference for the world.

ACTiVEWEAR

BY KENDALL CORNWELL

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@girlfriend

friendly brands that have recently grown in popularity.

Girlfriend Collective’s motto is “guilt-free luxury,” as the company sources plastic bottles and other recycled materials to create fashionable, comfortable, and luxurious leggings and sports bras. In doing so, they’ve created recycled polyester from plastic bottles and recycled nylon from fishing nets. Also, the facility where Girlfriend Collective manufactures its products is certified for recycling by the Taiwanese government, so it’s the real deal. Many entrepreneurs are taking note of this innovative approach to create a sustainable

The

Art Storytelling of

By Quinnivan Raudat

When people think of fashion shows, they usually think of the clothes and the celebrities who wear them. They rarely take the time to step back and look at the entirety of the event. Thinking back to some of the industry’s favorite, most memorable shows, people don’t actually remember the garments themselves, but rather the colors, tones, or the creativity of the designer.

One of the most recent notable moments in fashion was the Dior Spring 2016 show. The mountain of delphiniums that adorned the stage was forever seared into the memories of its viewers. Designer Raf Simons didn’t just leave his mark on the public; he left it for the seasons to come. Three years later, the Victorian nightgown trend created that day under the tent still thrives. However, the garments weren’t the only inspiration for this trend; the narrative Simons told proved just as influential. Under the dim lights of the Dior tent, he mixed a Victoriana with a slight sexual undertone of darkness to make the cotton dresses alluring yet feminine.

This dreamy stupor engenders the realization that every collection has a narrative: the clothes are the starting point, and the runway show is the 15-minute expression of the full story.

This story can’t be told without the perfect venue.

That day, the narrative of sexuality in femininity emerged from the floral mountain. The heaping mass of purples and blues demanded not only respect of the effervescent designs but also the art of storytelling. Fashion is an art, and the creativity of a fashion show is the truest embodiment of it.

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Art

The

of

By Grace McCarty ashion advertising encompasses so much more than clothing. “Selling a look” requires selling an attitude, an atmosphere, an emotion, a story. At the birth of haute couture, fashion was advertised almost exclusively through illustration; in terms of marketing products visually, traditional artwork was a designer’s only option.

However, as fashion has evolved, so have marketing methods. Paper artwork was eventually outshined by new possibilities for fashion photography in the early twentieth century. Photography remained dominant until computer programs normalized digitally enhanced images, special effects, and computer-generated artwork in fashion advertising. So, why, after following a pattern of constant development thus far, is the next wave of fashion advertising showcasing a return to its roots? Why is paper fashion illustration reclaiming its place in this digitally dominated age?

F

The retro movement in modern fashion could serve as an

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Fashion Advertising explanation. As the clothes themselves draw from past eras of fashion (with ’60s high waists, ’70s wide legs, and your mother’s actual high school Nikes returning gracefully to the mainstream), advertisers may be seeking out old-school inspiration as well. Perhaps the simplicity of traditional art offers a refreshing change from the overly edited ads that drown their products in embellishment and artificiality. Considering the aforementioned goals of fashion advertising (capturing and selling not simply the look, but the feeling) a return to traditional visual art forms makes perfect sense.

Without devaluing the technical skill and strenuous practice demanded of digitally trained artists, most traditional artists would agree that there is a certain element of life that can only be captured by a physical brush stroke or pencil mark.

Traditional art is full of life in that it exists in the moment, leaving little to no room for doubt. There is no

undo button; physical art requires bold decision making, confidence, and reaction to first impression. These attributes happen to lie among the most desirable qualities of a fashion advertisement.

The most successful fashion ad commands attention without begging for it. It conveys attitude, movement, color, and pattern—only the most critical aspects of a look that serve to mold an audience’s first impression.

As the influence of the retro movement resonates, it will be interesting to observe whether advertisers continue to withdraw from digital art methods. Today’s traditional fashion illustrators are winning back their thrones, seated right in front of the most coveted runways, and positioned in exclusive collection showings with sketchbooks and palettes at the ready. Paper illustrators in the fashion industry are free to rejoice; the life contained in the spontaneous brushstroke is selling fashion on Fifth Avenue once again.

The Micro Bag...

This Fall & Winter...

All Things Satin, Feathers, and Purple

Work So That You Can Buy Patchwork

A Coat, But Make it a Cape

Coats That Are Longer Than Your Work Week

Plaid All Day Every Day 31

Sweedish Teenager

Greta Thunberg is the New Face of Climate Activism

by Gayathri Thelekatt

Greta Thunberg, a 16-year-old Swedish teenager, is the new face of the revolution against climate change.

In August 2018, the young activist skipped her Friday classes and took to the steps of the Swedish parliament to protest her government’s lack of action against the growing climate crisis. Her actions sparked an international movement, “Fridays for Future.” Because of Thunberg, students all around the world are taking time off from school on Fridays to demand action from their

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governments. Inspired by Thunberg’s strikes, climate strikes took place across the globe on September 2019 in Germany, Turkey, South Africa, and New York. New York’s climate strike had an estimated 250,000 attendees. The city’s public schools even canceled classes for the day so students could attend the protest.

Igniting an international movement wasn’t enough for this teenage activist. In August 2019, Thunberg, committed to reducing carbon emissions, sailed across the Atlantic Ocean

from the U.K. to New York in a carbon-neutral racing yacht. The teenage activist journeyed across the ocean to attend the U.N. Climate Action Summit and the COP 25 Climate Change Conference.

On Saturday, September 21, the United Nations’ headquarters in New York hosted the U.N. Climate Summit of 2019. Leaders around the world attended the event; even President Trump decided to make a last-minute appearance.

At the summit, Thunberg made a blunt, impassioned speech pleading world leaders to take action: “This is all wrong. I shouldn’t be up here. I should be back in school on the other side of the ocean. Yet you all come to us young people for hope. How dare you.” Thunberg went on to urge leaders to expedite their goal of cutting carbon emissions in half in the next ten years, saying this initiative would not be enough to reverse the damage already inflicted upon our planet.

At just sixteen, Greta Thunberg has shown more initiative to save the Earth than prominent world leaders. Her actions have sparked a wave of climate activism that has never been seen before. Young people are fighting harder than ever for the future of our planet.

Artists 3 Female That Invigorate & Empower Female artists have been climbing the charts recently, bringing female empowerment to the forefront of the industry. Artists such as Maggie Rogers, LÉON, and H.E.R show what can happen when musical passion, self-expression, acceptance, and vulnerability are combined.

MAGGIE ROGERS

A hip, banjo-playing, singer-songwriter from Maryland, Maggie Rogers has taken the pop music genre by storm this past year. During college, she spent a few months traveling, hiking, and spiritually growing.

This eye-opening experience led to a connection with her music again, which is evident through her natural, humble, and grounded character. Her dedication to her roots is extremely evident in her music, which incorporates the folk music she grew up with and the pop aspects of today’s chart toppers. The simplistic lyrics of her album, “Heard It In A Past Life,” carry a heavy undertone, signifying Rogers’s use of music as an emotional release. When she performs, you can see her originality radiate as she lets her body move in whatever way feels right. Maggie Rogers is seen as a breath of fresh air in the music industry.

Song recommendation: “Fallingwater”

By Cameron Price

LÉON

H.E.R.

Growing up covering artists like Alicia Keys, Gabriella Wilson (AKA H.E.R.) was considered a child prodigy for her amazing vocal talents. After being first publicized on Radio Disney’s NBT at age twelve, she released her first EP in 2016, leading to the release of her full album “I Used to Know Her” in August 2019.

Though she struggles with discussing her feelings (which is the inspiration for the acronym H.E.R., meaning “having everything revealed”), she speaks of her music as her emotional outlet, expressing a vulnerability that she rarely feels comfortable divulging. Wilson vows to be a voice for women who struggle with similar emotional hardships and hopes the underlying messages of her music are what her audience gravitates towards. She would much rather be known for the raw emotion that is her music than for her appearance or her love life.

Lotta Lingden, known by her stage name LÉON, is an indie pop artist from Stockholm, Sweden. She discovered herself through her musical upbringing, performing as the lead singer in a hip-hop/soul band as early as her teenage years. She brings her soulish, heartwarming musicality to the table as she serenades her audiences with her rich voice and evocative lyrics. Her melodic vibe is truly one-of-a-kind, bringing an invigorating experience with every new song on her self-titled debut album that was released in March 2019.

Song recommendation: “Surround Me”

Song recommendation: “Hard Place” 33

Poetry-Pop

Is the New

Face

By Anna Haase

A

of Music

n up-and-coming group of young artists is beginning to release a new type of music: poetry-pop. While the 2010s have brought forth a hefty mix of predominantly rap and pop, this unique niche genre is putting emphasis on not only the lyrics but the overall tone of the songs as well. Take Arlo Parks’ most recent single, “George,” which outlines the life of a reckless poet. Anna of The North serenades her long-distance lover in “Playing Games.” Clairo explores her sexuality throughout her debut album Immunity. Mallrat gets personal about her family life in “Charlie.” The common thread in these songs and albums is the attention to detail in the stories each artist tells.

As opposed to songs that rely heavily on their main beats, these tunes center around the feelings associated with the lyrics, whether they be happy or sad. These soft jams are also versatile in the sense that you could easily listen to them anywhere, whether it’s on a party playlist or during a late-night study session. Listening to arists such as these lovely ladies also provides direct support to women in the music industry. So on your next coffee break, take a few minutes to tune into your emotional side with these poetry-pop-esque songs!

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how the new faces of

are reviving the genre by alexandra benavides

L

ed by innovative, fresh-faced artists, R&B music has made a grand reentrance into the popular music scene. Digital streaming services such as Spotify and Tidal have played a pivotal role in bringing the genre onto the top charts and giving it the mainstream exposure it deserves. The customizable elements of these services expose music that aren’t traditional “top hits” to audiences that show interest in the genre. As of 2019, the “Are & Be” playlist on Spotify has over five million followers and is frequently updated with the newest releases by trending artists.

A new class of singers is bringing innovation to the R&B genre, while maintaining its characteristic elements of soul, jazz, and blues that trace back to its 1930s roots.

One album that was pivotal in this R&B revolution was SZA’s Ctrl (2017). The pairing of strong, seductive vocals with raw, vulnerable subject matter (relationship troubles, body insecurities, and identity crises) truly made this a standout debut album from the St. Louis–born artist. Ctrl was certified platinum in the U.S. and was nominated for four Grammys, including Sza’s nomination for Best New Artist.

Daniel Caesar’s Freudian (2017) was a deeply moving album that uniquely incorporated elements of gospel in addition to the traditional R&B sound. Two songs actually

featured samples of the traditional gospel songs, “We Fall Down” and “Hold Me Now”; this artistic choice was praised by critics as highlighting the young artist’s incredible vocal abilities while blending the past with the present. Freudian also featured several up-and-coming female vocalists in romantic duets, including the Kali Uchis– featured “Get You,” which was released as a single and has a quarter of a billion streams on Spotify as of September 2019.

Twenty-two-year-old H.E.R’s self-titled album (2017) was moody, haunting, and alluring all at once. It brought listeners deep into the intricacies of a past toxic relationship, evoking universal emotions of desperation, anger, and heartbreak. Yet, the artist herself remains shrouded in mystery. H.E.R is a cloaked artist—she rarely shows her face and does not share her real name with her audience, somehow making her artistry all the more impressive. H.E.R won the 2019 Grammy for Best R&B album, and the singer snagged another Grammy for her performance of “Get You” with Daniel Caesar.

These debut albums truly marked the start of a new era for R&B, as all three artists have continued to grow and develop in their craft, and are joined by a variety of new voices following in their footsteps.

Summer Walker and Pink Sweat$ are two talented artists who are popping up on the charts, and their recent popularity is certainly welldeserved.

The future looks bright for R&B, as these “twentysomething” artists usher rhythm and soul into the modern era.

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How Afrobeats Have Influenced the Fashion Scene in West Africa

F

ela Anikulapo Kuti, also known as Fela, was a Nigerian musician and the pioneer of the Afrobeats music genre.

The beginning of the Afrobeats movement opened the door to creative dressing.

When you think of Fela, you picture that “swaggy uncle” at the barbecue. Face paint, bootcut jeans, African necklace beads, and unkempt hair, which still looked good. You never knew what he was going to wear next, but it was always different and expressive—it was ALTÉ. As time went on, different genres began to evolve from Afrobeats. These uniquely creative genres have influenced the fashion scene in West Africa.

African-fabric-meets-streetwear, hence Afro-fusion, is one of the Afrobeat genres founded by Burna Boy. If you haven’t heard of Burna Boy, then you’ve been living in a different time. Not only does his fashion have influence but so does his music. Nike recently collaborated with a Nigerian artist, Petah Jay, on a new sneaker called “Just Gbese,” which is a popular phrase used in one of Burna’s songs.

The design of the shoe mimics the eccentric sensations of listening to Afro-fusion. Through Burna Boy’s

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music and style, he has shaped the fashion scene in West Africa, especially in Nigeria, and paved the way for avant-garde artists such as Bowofoluwa Olufisayo Odunsi, popularly known as Odunsi, the altè star.

The word “alté” means alternative, other, or different, and in the case of fashion, alté embraces a retro and vintage style that is tagged as “new school.” The vintage influence in Odunsi’s “Alté Cruise” music video makes it feel as though viewers have been transported back to the early ’90s. This nostalgic vibe has individualized his style of R&B, which permeates through the genre of Afrobeat. As a figure at the

By Ebuka Chioke

forefront of the alté scene, Odunsi has inspired the younger generation to express itself freely despite living in a traditional, conservative society like Nigeria.

In many West African countries, it is common to see young people dressing in an “alté” style by wearing dirty sneakers, rocking unique or funky hairstyles, and donning antique rings, other unique jewelry pieces, and accessories like bucket hats. It is also common for young people to show off their personality by dressing in all forms of edgy styles such as baggy pants and utility tank tops or T-shirt dresses and big boots. Alté’s all about expressing yourself in the most extra way.

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