Feast of the 7 Fishes

The Feast of the Fishes By Jim DeLillo 7

The Vigil

One of my favorite childhood memories is Christmas Eve dinner, or Vigilia—the vigil, as the Italians call it. We always went to my aunt’s home, and all our cousins were there. On this night, the dinner consists of The Feast of Seven Fishes.

The Fish

The fish allows for a hearty meal in observance of the church’s abstinence rules. The actual number isn’t relevant, only that plenty of fish is laid on the table. Shrimp, clams, fried sole, smelts, lobster, cod, and calamari are a few of the varieties that may make up the meal.

Baccalà Salad

My aunt followed the tradition with zeal. One of the most traditional dishes was her baccalà salad.

Baccalà is salt cod; the preparation is notorious for the 3-day soaking with multiple changes of water. The fish, as you could imagine, gives of its natural odor as the salt leeches out. At the end of the three days, the fish is boiled and mixed ala salad with celery, onions, oil, vinegar, and the Italian spices of oregano and basil. The mixture is best refrigerated overnight for the flavors to meld.

I adapted the recipe for a mock baccalà.

DeLillo’s Mock Baccala’ Salad

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds fresh boneless cod (in lieu of baccalà) ½ cup celery, diced ½ cup onions, diced 1 tablespoon shallot 1/4 cup Italian, flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 cup olive oil 4 tablespoons white vinegar Salt (a little extra) and pepper to taste Red chili flakes to taste

DIRECTIONS

Cut the cod into 1-inch pieces. Drop the cod into salted boiling water and cook until fish breaks of easily. Strain and cool. After it cools, remove skin and bones, if there are any.

In a mixing bowl, combine the cod, celery, onions, shallots, parsley, oil, and vinegar. Toss gently.

Season with salt and pepper and the Italian herbs.

Cover and refrigerate overnight to meld the flavors.