Inverbrena 2015

Tales from

Inverbrena Strangford 2015

A Note on “Inverbrena” The name first appears in the Annals of the Four Masters as “Inver Brena” - The mouth of the Bren river and identifies the narrow neck of water through which the tide rushes into Loch Cuan

Chairman’s Note.

Welcome to the 2015 edition of our annual Journal, a collection of memories, stories, histories and photographs of our locality.

We would be delighted should any new members like to join our group. Our monthly meetings take place on the 3rd Friday of each month at Inverbrena Hall Strangford, beginning at 8.00 pm. We invite you to join us to reminisce on people and times gone by. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you wish to contribute articles to our future journals Email: inverbrena@hotmail.co.uk Website address: www.inverbrena.co.uk Copies of our journal may be purchased from Kevin Og’s shop, Strangford, or by contacting us directly.

The launch is supported by Newry Mourne and Down District Council, to whom we extend our grateful appreciation

“For the olden memories fast are flying from us, Oh! That some kind hand would come And bind them in a garland e’re the present hardens And the past grows cold and dumb.”

Anon. © Copyright All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means without the prior permission of the copyright owner and publisher of this book 2015 Cover Photograph:

Illustration of Sam Swail by Louise Younger www.liffydesigns.co.uk www.facebook.com/liffydesigns e: liffydesigns@gmail.com

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Contents

PAGE Strangford Aid For Africa 1985......................................................Robert Duffy (Strangford) Tommy Hanna (Ta Ha)

3-5

................................... Photos reproduced with the kind permission of John Hanna (Ballylenagh)

5

St Joseph’s Primary School, Strangford.............................Michael McConville (Strangford)

6-9

Knocking Stone, Ballynarry.....................................................................................................

9

Old Sam and the Volcano........................................................Eamon McMullan (Newcastle)

10 - 11

Rejoicings at Strangford.............................................................. Michael Howland (Ardglass)

12 - 13

Views From a Flexwing Microlight....................................................................... Joe McIvor

14 - 19

Henry McKibbin.......................................................................George McKibbin (Ballyculter)

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Rock Angus - Based on historic articles from the Down Recorder Newspaper

...................................................................................................Michael McConville (Strangford)

21 - 23

Strangford Past.......................................................................Michael McConville (Strangford)

24 - 31

Ned...............................................................................................Eamon McMullan (Newcastle)

32 - 33

On An Operation I Went Through............................................James Rooney (Tobermoney)

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Field Names: Ballyculter...................................................................... Brian and Peig Denvir

35 - 37

Taking a Stroll Through Ballyculter Upper and Lower Townlands

...................................................................................................................... Joan Magee (Kilclief )

38 - 42

Kilclief Bell.............................................................................Michael McConville (Strangford)

43 - 44

1739 Shipwreck, Kilclief ................... Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, PRONI Reference D2092/1/5

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Painting of a ship by James Murphy

............................................... Photo reproduced with the kind permission of his son Jim Murphy

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Souvenir Programme: Opening of St. Malachy’s Park, Sunday 16th April 1944.........

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Strangford Annual Summer Festival 2015.................................. John Hanna (Ballylenagh)

47 - 50

Christmas In Strangford..........................................................Eamon McMullan (Newcastle)

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Strangford Annual Regatta Programme 1924............................ John Hanna (Ballylenagh)

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Acknowledgements The Editor wishes to thank: Everyone who submitted articles and photos for this year’s edition of the Journal, and all our members for their co-operation. Thanks also to the staff of Flixx Graphics for their advice and to Kevin Og for selling our Journal.

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Inverbrena Local History Group Magazine 2015

Strangford Aid For Africa 1985

By Robert Duffy

This article is dedicated to the memory of Ray Valentine

Ray Valentine and Robert Duffy reminisce to the Mourne Observer, September 2005, about their involvement in Live Aid 1985.

Photograph reproduced with the kind permission of the Mourne Observer Newspaper

I recall the tremendous impact made by the images on TV on the 13th July 1985, when 4 years old Birhan was pictured in her mothers’ arms suffering from the ravages of hunger in famine torn Ethiopia.

It was the catalyst which motivated myself, Robert Duffy (of the 4077th MASH Disco Roadshow) and my friend Ray Valentine (of the band “Shoestring”) to raise money to support the world wide emergency aid programme. We arranged a one-day concert in Strangford for Sunday 4th August 1985, calling it “Local Aid”, and Raymond spent weeks contacting numerous bands in an effort to arrange for up to 20 of them to perform on a makeshift stage at the local playing fields in the links.

The big day arrived but the weather was terrible, the rain was torrential and the venue was a quagmire.

The event was scaled down though safety concerns were raised due to the combination of electricity and water, a health and safety nightmare. 17 bands had been scheduled to perform but only two were actually able to do so. One of these included Raymond’s band Shoestring, along with another group, Hard Stuff, from Ardglass. Conditions were so extreme that Raymond had to turn his guitar upside down to empty the water out of it once he had finished his set. After 90 minutes the event had to be abandoned due to the horrendous weather conditions, but despite this 500 people had made a huge effort to attend and the event managed to raise over £1000.

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Not to be beaten though, we organised a second event 3 weeks later, “Strangford Aid for Africa-Take Two,” with lighting loaned from Downpatrick Arts Centre. Bands preformed until approximately 2.00am included More Tea Vicar, Eddie Byrne, Perfect Strangers, Pool of Life, Dermot and John, Comfort, Misty Mountain Hop, Bandana, Slainte, The Strangers, 4 Idle Hands, with Downpatrick based Jody Street performing the finale. This time we raised £2200.

As the spectators streamed off home we had to begin to dismantle the stage equipment and lighting, and it was nearly dawn before the site was cleared. We owed much to the local bands who participated, and to the local community for their support, including the volunteers who turned up to act as stewards for the event. Local businesses and traders gave donations, Down District Council provided the use of the playing fields, and the Knights of Malta assisted us with their support also, as did the RUC’s community relations branch, Downpatrick. The proceeds from those two events, in addition to Live Aid discos, raised a total of £5178 for those starving in Ethiopia.

Two months later Raymond and I answered another appeal from Bob Geldof for blankets, clothing and toys. Winter in Ethiopia in the tented refugee camps can be unbearably cold at night. Thousands of orphaned children sat all day with only very basic amenities, little clothing, no bedding and virtually nothing to keep them amused. Ray and I organized a “5 day Mercy Mission” to collect clothing, etc. from different depots around Lecale and provided transport to London docks. We hired a forty foot curtain sided lorry and parked it in Strangford Square for two days. With the help of the local community we loaded 4000 bags of clothing, bedding and simple toys unto the lorry.

We set off for Larne and boarded the Sea-link Ferry to Scotland, drove all night and arrived into London at 6am. We were met by the Live Aid representatives. We unloaded the lorry and set off for the airport to fly home. The clothing etc. was delivered to Ethiopia in one of the Live Aid ships specially commissioned to carry supplies including food, medical supplies, tenting and other much needed equipment. It was due to arrive in Ethiopia in early December. At Christmas that year Bob Geldof broadcast a special T.V. programme about the refugee camps. In one of the screen shots sat two children wearing Ben Derg club shirts. The sense of what Ray and I had achieved, only really sank in when I saw those children. If the shirts were in Ethiopia so were the 4000 bags.

So much was happening on the political stage in Northern Ireland but in the tiny village of Strangford a community stood shoulder to shoulder to help people they did not even know. It restores your faith in human nature, in all it was a humbling experience for Ray and I. Often we reminisced on those events. Younger people would ask if we would repeat that moment again for a needed appeal or World Disaster. The reply would usually be;”We had youth and energy on our side then. Thirty years ago things were different, little or no health and safety legislation, insurance etc. This is for your generation. This is your moment and youth is on your side, make history.” Sadly Raymond passed away this year. But those events will always remain a profound memory with me, of a good friend and a very special year.

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Supporters at the Live Aid event, The Links playing fields, Strangford, 25th August 1985.

Reproduced with the kind permission of the Mourne Observer Newspaper

Names below of some of those involved: Peter Quail, Robert Duffy, Joe Burns, Raymond Valentine, Paul Avington, Damien Milligan, John Rodgers, Maurice Hynds, Paul Fitzsimons(1), Damien Fitzsimons, Paul Fitzsimons (2), Brian Telford, Michael Hynds, Peter Hynds, Damien Fitzsimons, Damien Shields, Gabriel Rodgers, Jackie Bright, Peter McKeating

TOMMY HANNA (TA HA) Photos reproduced with the kind permission of John Hanna Thomas “Ta Ha” Hanna was one of the original wheelhouse crew of the Portaferry to Strangford ferry. Tommy delighted in being on the water and meeting people. He loved fishing but could never swim. One Christmas Eve he fell overboard and had to be rescued. He had 40 cigarettes in his pocket for his wife Tilly, and while his wetsuit kept him dry Tilly’s cigarettes were ruined.

They had nine children – four boys and five girls, who in their younger days spent time on the water helping their father fish for lobster, cod and mackerel. Tommy learnt a lot about fishing from the late Tommy Douglas.

Crew members L-R Tommy Hanna, Raymond Reilly and John Coulter

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St. JOSEPH’S PRIMARY SCHOOL STRANGFORD

By Michael Mc Conville.

When Rev. Fr. Magowan, P.P Kilclief converted Stella Maris Social Club into a school in 1933 he never intended the change to be permanent. It was always his goal to build a new school in Strangford when funds would allow but before he could realise his plans Fr. Magowan left the parish in 1940 to take up pastoral duties in Bangor.

It would be 15 years before his successor Rev. Fr. E. J. Crossin P.P. would be able to decide that after paying off the parish contribution to St. Patrick’s Intermediate School in Downpatrick and to St. Ann’s Intermediate School in Ardglass that a new school should be built for the children of Strangford and Ballyculter.( The payments to St. Patrick’s ceased in 1953 and to St. Ann’s in 1954.) Fr Crossin was also concerned that on the death of Lord Bangor in 1950 the National School at Ballyculter, which was built in 1823 by the Bangor estate, which also endowed it, would be handed over to the control of the Northern Ireland Education Authority.

The site Fr. Crossin had selected for the school at the top of the Doctor’s Hill on the Downpatrick Road, did not get the approval of the Minister of Education who recommended that the parish obtain a more suitable site closer to Strangford village. In 1958 Fr. Crossin was transferred to Castlewellan parish and his successor Rev. Fr. P. McClean P.P. attempted to purchase a site on the Newry Quay.

This attempt failed but he did obtain a suitable site on the Quarry Hill on which the school could be built.

The site consisted of two plots of land. One was a field belonging to Patrick Dougherty, a local farmer who donated it to the parish, and the second site was a large garden which was bought from the De Ros estate in 1960, on behalf of the parish, by the lease holder Mick Mc Conville.

This elevated site adjoining the Strangford- Downpatrick road commanded a striking view of Strangford Lough, the Lower Ards and a wide stretch of East Down. The school, which was designed

by Messrs. Mc Lean and Forte Architects of Belfast, gave effect to a new approach to small school design, in that, contrary to recent practice, all corridors were eliminated in favour of a central assembly and circulation area. Messrs. Hugh J. O’Boyle, Ltd. Downpatrick won the contract to build the school and the work was completed in twenty eight weeks. This time period included site works and the laying of tarmacadam areas. The cost of the building was £20,000. Mr. John Braniff was clerk of works and the quantity surveyor was Mr. Sean Tynan.

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The main entrance gives access to the vestibule, flanked by the Administrative block and cloak rooms. Beyond the vestibule is the assembly hall, off which are three class halls and the meals server.

Beyond the glazed wall of the assembly hall is a paved court area which provides the approach, under covered link ways, to the toilet block. The grounds are laid in grass, with appropriate hard court areas for physical education.

Steelwork forms the main structural framework of the classrooms, assembly and dining hall blocks with load bearing brick walls to the ancillary accommodation. Silver - grey brickwork, aluminium windows in hardwood framing with coloured infill panels, form the striking elevation to the main road.

On the 11th June 1964 His Lordship the Most Rev. Dr. Philbin Bishop of Down and Connor presided at Solemn High Mass in Stella Maris Church before walking in procession with the parishioners and guests to the school for the opening ceremonies. The clergy present were:Very Rev. J. Kelly, P.P.,V.F. Dundrum; Very Rev. J.J. Connolly, P.P. V.F., Downpatrick; Rev. P. Mcclean, P.P. Strangford; Rev. D.Morgan, P.P. Braid; Rev. Dr. P. Conway, P.P. Killough; Rev. W. Lynn, P.P. Saul; Rev. A. Connolly, P.P. Crossgar; Rev. D. Mc Bride, P.P. Loughinisland; Rev. S. Cahill, C.C. Strangford; Rev. H. Sheridan, C.C. Ballykinlar; Rev. E. ~c Ardle, C.C. St. Patrick’s Belfast; Rev. C. Denvir, C.C. Ballycastle; Rev. J. Skelly, C.C. Dunsford; Rev. M. Hurl, C.C. Downpatrick; Rev. T. Lynch, C.C. Downpatrick; Rev. C. Reilly, C.C. Leggamaddy; Re v.

R .

Fi t z s p a t r i c k , St. MacNissi’s College, Garron Tower.Rev. W. E . K e n n e d y, Church of Ireland, Rector of Ballyculter and Kilclief and Rev. E. Agnew, Pe r s b y t e r i a n Minister, Strangford.

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The Bishop dedicated the new school to Saint Joseph, Protector of Family Life, and in his address he told parents and parishioners of the greater than ever need for Catholic school education in the face of present day attractions and temptations. He said that we were living in “very confused times” when everybody’s eyes and ears were open to messages from people regarded as leaders of thought, and children were being lead in different directions and were being confused by different sorts of guidance. He said that children were being led to think they should follow what they thought was good, whatever they thought was permissible and attractive. Often by the most unexpected sources, people were being tempted and attracted away from those precepts of the Gospel and the strong commandments so often repeated by God, to follow the principle of more pleasure, more satisfaction and more self-indulgence.

The Bishop stated that “More than ever before in these times, the law of the Church, which is plain and clear and universal that Catholic children shall be educated in our Catholic schools, deserves our loyal acceptance and obedience”.

He said that “The Church was insisting that her members, particularly children in their formative years, should be brought up in the fullest appreciation of the Faith of Christ and the teaching he instituted, before they took their places in the world”.

His Lordship concluded by saying that he was satisfied by the evidence he had seen of the people’s appreciation of Catholic schooling. He said that the completion of the new school was a milestone in the history of that part of Co. Down and it was something that would perpetuate and even add to the tradition of which the people here had every right to be proud.

Guests at the opening ceremony and at luncheon in the school included Dr. H. Hazlett, Ministry of Education: Mr. L. Arndell, Senior Assistant Secretary to the Minister of Education; Mr. L. Dawson, Belfast; Dr. J. McGilton, Deputy Director of Down County Education Committee; Mr. Senan Sharvin, Vice- Chairman of East Down Rural District Council, and Dr. P. Moore, Strangford.

Teachers present were Mr. H. George, Mr. J. McGuiness, Mr. R. Ricard, Mr. J. Ritchie, Mrs. D.Ellis, Mrs. F. Magee, Mrs. B. Curran, Mrs. J. McConvey, Miss S.Sharvin, and Miss K.Maguire.

Speaking after the luncheon Dr. Philbin praised the co-operative spirit in which the erection of the school had been carried out. He said he deeply appreciated the presence of Rev. Kennedy and Rev. Agnew-”for personal reasons and because of the spirit which underlies their coming here and the good will which their presence betokens” His Lordship said he was delighted to have heard that relations in the Strangford area between people of different Christian denominations were particularly warm and he hoped they would continue to be so.

Master George, first Principal in St. Joseph’s School, 1964-1966 8

On the 9th July 1964 Stella Maris P.S. closed its doors for the last time as the pupils went on their summer vacation. During the week following the 12th July holiday all useful school furniture books etc. were transferred from Stella Maris to St. Joseph’s school and on the 24th August 1964 St. Josephs’ school opened its doors for the first time to 73 pupils from Strangford and surrounding area.

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The teachers who welcomed the children on this day were Mr. H. George, principal, Mrs. Anne Sharvin, vice- principal and Mr. John Maginnis.

At its conception F r. M c C l e a n h a d recommended to the Education Minister a four classroom school but the Minister disagreed and would only permit three Mr. K Conlan, Principal during the school’s 50 year celebrations classrooms. In 1978 when the school attendance was in excess of 100 pupils and the central assembly and circulation area was being used as a classroom, the Department of Education installed a new mobile classroom to the rear of the school. In 1991 an extension was built to the side of the school building to provide additional storage and staff accommodation and in 2000 a second mobile classroom was installed.

This classroom was first used in February 2001.

In the fifty years since the school opened in 1964 there have been five principal teachers. Mr. H. George, was appointed Principal of Stella Maris in 1940 and was Principal in St. Josephs from 1964 to 1966. Mr. J. Ritchie was Principal from 1966 to 1989. Mr. G. Reilly was Principal from 1990 to 1998. Mr. T. Rooney was Principal from 1998 to 2002. Mr. K. Conlan was Principal from 2002 to 2015. The present Principal Mrs. Laura Fitzsimons took over the post on the 1st. September 2015.

St. Josephs’ school is recognised as an integral part of the village of Strangford and with the cooperation and support of the community, the school staff, pupils and parents can look forward to the school maintaining its educational roll for the benefit of all the children in the Strangford area.

KNOCKING STONE, BALLYNARRY On speaking to Pat Magee, Ardglass - born Ballynarry - I was able to confirm that this photo was of a Knocking Stone, made of whinstone. (Whinstone is a quarrying term used to describe any hard, dark coloured, fine-grained rocks). In days gone by Knocking stones were commonly used for preparing barley meal, the grain being pounded in the deep hollowed out cavity of the stone. It was also possible for whins to have been ground inside these stone basins, usually with a wooden maul, and fed to horses.

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Old Sam and the Volcano Eamon McMullan, Newcastle

As usual, a bunch of youthful listeners had gathered at the end of the Cut on that warm summer Friday’s evening ever hopeful for one of Sam Swail’s tales.“Sam ye said we were to remind you to tell us about “the volcano”. Och aye boys, that’s the very wan I was goin’ to tell yes about, I mind it well for it happened the year I wus 21 and this year I’ll be 78, and if I reckoned right it wud be in the year of 1878. Now it all tuk place on the top of Windmill Hill across in the Ards, a place I knowed right well for at that time I was running after a wee girl that lived alongside Cook St Bay and Betty was her name. Oh manys the time we wud dander up the hill to be by our selves you know. I would sail me Da’s punt over on a Sunday, and look forward to seeing the purtiest girl in the Ards. ‘But I’m drifting away from my story.

The oul’ mill was in working order in them days an you cud see the big sails turning the gears inside that then turned the stones, two sets of them. In that time she was owned by a man by the name of McCarry or Mckerry or Mccleery or some such name as that but before that she was built by the Savages, the big land owners around Portaferry. All the Ards and all of Isle Lecale was known as the bread basket of Ulster, it was the driest part of Ireland an’ it cud grow the best wheat in the country. Well it stands to sense that a mill was a kinda necessary thing, an as there was no rivers around to turn a wheel but there was plenty of wind, so these tower mills were all over Lecale. There was wan at Lisboy, wan at Ballyorgan, an wan at Kernycaw. An all the grain was ground from the countryside around in them mills. Now the neardest wan tae us was Portaferry but the loading an’ unloading unto carts an’ unto boats an’ aff was too much bother so very seldom was grain brought to the mill on the Ards from this side of the Lough. But wance I was helping a fellow with a few bags to that mill an’ saw inside her, the dust was thick an’ the chaff was lying all over the place an’ I remember thinking it would go wae a quare bang if there was a spark at all from a pipe or such like. An that was the very thing that happened.

Oul man McCleary was takin’ a walk on that Christmas Day up by the mill, it was the year of 78, and stood into the mill to check on things an’ his pipe needed filling so he scraped her out an’ tapped his fill an’ lit up, never noticing that he had left an red smouldering ember on the floor. When he locked the door the ember turned to a spark that grew hotter an’ hotter an after a while turned to a flame. It spread across the floor an inside an hour it was eating at the old wood of the mill. Up it went to the second floor, by this time it was a raging inferno. Then the thatched roof caught , then the sails. The sky glowed Red with the clouds being low on the evening of that Christmas day in1878.

People from all around came but little could they do with such a terrible blaze.

Photo above includes members of the Swail Family.

Sitting to left, George. Sitting centre, Sam Swail.

Sitting to right, Harry Swail.

Boy standing to rear of sitting men is Christie Swail 10

It was just about teatime over here in Strangford, deep in the dusk of the evening when folk noticed the smoke an’ then the flames.

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That was when the story went round that the Windmill Hill was a volcano erupting, an’ that the lava was pouring out an running down the streets of Portaferry. It might cross the Lough an start burning all before it. Oul Mrs McGra that lived not far from me sent her sister up to the Chapel to light a candle and, they say that the rattle of the rosary beads in every house could be heard out to Ballyculter cross roads.

Oul Mrs Curran, who used to keen at all the wakes, started to wail like a banshee. The whole village was running around like a flock of chickens with their heads cut off.

The fear was very real for even though they lived in a wee town at the back of beyond, they’d heard of Vesuvius and Etna and the awful destruction that follow their eruptions. As the time passed and no lava appeared and the flaming volcano seemed to loose its dangerous look the crowds gathered along the shore.

Some brave souls got their boats ready to go on a rescue mission to save the poor “gilpins” but then they realised that the old mill was about burned out. The smoke still eddied up but nothing like it had been at the beginning. Later on every one made fun of how foolish they had been an some of the smart Alex claimed they knew all the time it was no volcano, but they lie! But in any case there it stands to this day, the old Windmill Stump, looking across at us and holding it’s sides with the laughing, knowing that it scared the daylights out of a whole village for two or three hours on Christmas Day 1878.

PS. This little story is a mix of a little bit of fact and a bigger bit of fiction. See if you can separate the two.

William McClean on jaunting car, Strangford, 1926.

Courtesy of Michael McConville

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Rejoicings at Strangford

By Michael Howland (Ardglass)

On Saturday 17 September 1853, the Earl of Wilton visited Strangford along with his family and daughter, Lady Elizabeth Grey Egerton (d. 14 Mar 1892), who was to get married to Dudley Charles FitzGerald-de Ros, the eventual 24th Lord de Ros of Helmsley (1827-1907). The Down Recorder of Saturday 17 December describes the visit: ‘On Saturday last, the beautifully situated and usually quiet little town of Strangford presented a gay and bustling aspect, on the occasion of the arrival of the splendid yacht Xarifa, having on board the Earl of Wilton and family, and also the Hon. Dudley de Ros, and his affianced [to be engaged to marry] bride, the lady Elizabeth Grey Egerton, eldest daughter of the Earl of Wilton. The party disembarked from the Xarifa at half past nine o’clock, a.m., amidst the booming of cannon from the numerous splendid yachts which crowded the harbour and to the loud hearty cheers of an immense concourse of spectators who had thronged Lt-Gen. Dudley Charles the town, each seeming to vie with the other in giving a cordial and FitzGerald-de Ros enthusiastic welcome to the noble and distinguished visitors, particularly the betrothed lady of the son of the noble and respected proprietor of the Strangford Estate.

All the vessels in the harbour were dressed out in their full amount of bunting, flags, signals, and streamers flaunting in the breeze. In addition to these where the following yachts also dressed out in their most attractive holiday attire; Magic, Lord Dufferin and Clandeboy, Blanche, Lord Otho Fitzgerald, Norah Creina, Lord de Ros, Turk, Captain Williams; Coine, C. W. Russell, Esq.

To the Right Honourable The Earl of Wilton... His Schooner Yacht Xarifa, courtesy National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London 12

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An immense number of flags and banners of every hue and colour were displayed from the windows and roofs of the houses of the townspeople and from sundry flagstaffs. The Custom house, Coast-guard watchhouse, and the other edifices were decorated in like manner, but it would be altogether impossible to give anything like a description of the gay and picturesque appearance which the town presented. At Old Court, the singularly neat and handsome residence of Lord De Ros, the scene was still more picturesque, triumphal arches composed of flowers and ever-greens were erected throughout the well-kept grounds attached to the house, and numberless flags bearing various devices and mottoes such as “Céad Míle Fáilte” and “Welcome Elizabeth and Dudley” etc. were everywhere to be seen.

In the evening the town was brilliantly illuminated, there not being a single house whose window did not send forward a perfect blaze of light. An immense number of bonfires burned in all directions which, with the illumination of the houses, caused the fullest and most perfect emission of the light that has been seen in these parts for many years. A monster bonfire blazed in glorious sublimity on Swan Island and gave a peculiar charm to the surrounding scene which altogether produced a most thrilling and animating effect. Blue lights, rockets and fire-balloons were sent up at intervals, whose coruscations [striking display of brilliance] and quick vibrations of light presented a magnificent appearance in the darkness of the vault over the town caused by the illuminations. The booming of the guns as well as the enthusiastic hurrahs of the warm hearted people was kept up and the town continued to be thronged till a late hour. The Earl of Wilton and family, Lord de Ros and family, Lord Dufferin and Clandeboy, Lord Otho Fitzgerald, James Price Esq., Rev. Mr Knox, Rev. Mr Orr etc. promenaded the town about nine o’clock to view the illuminations and expressed themselves as we are assured they felt much gratified at the enthusiastic and hearty Irish welcome given to the noble strangers on the occasion of their visit to the hospitable mansion of Old Court, the residence of Lord de Ros. ‘ The wedding took place at the ancestral seat of the Earl of Wilton, Heaton Hall outside Manchester.

The Earl of Wilton's seat, Heaton Hall

The Down Recorder of 8 Oct 1853 reported: ‘Lord and Lady de Ros, the Hon. Blanche de Ros and suite, left Old Court, Strangford, for the Earl of Wilton’s seat, Heaton Hall, near Manchester.’

The marriage took place on 12 October 1853.

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Views From A Flexwing Microlight Text and Photos By Joe McIvor

My plane is hangared at Newtownards. I fly a flexwing microlight, which is a hang glider with an engine and somewhere to sit. The definition of microlight is based on the weight, the wing loading and stall speed; originally the idea seemed to be that we couldn’t go fast enough to do any real damage.

In the flexwing you sit in a pod which is hanging beneath the wing. By shifting this pod around with a bar attached to the wing you are able to move the flexwing in the two axis of pitch and roll. The design of the flexwing excludes it from yawing. Flexwings don’t spin. The more modern flexwings are capable of 100mph but still fall within the spirit of microlights with their low weight, slow stall speed and low wing loading. The more modern three axis microlights are indistinguishable from proper planes. From my point of view the big plus is the unrestricted views I get from the flexwing.

Flying is a hobby and taking photos while flying is a bonus.

Coast Guard Cottages, Killard

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St Caelan Parish Church, Kilclief

My 1987 Flash2Alpha rockets along at 50mph and has a stall speed around 30mph. It slows down when you push the bar forward, speeds up when you pull the bar back, goes right when the bar is pushed to the left and vice versa. Whereas flying a three axis has been compared to driving a motorcar the flex is more akin to riding a motorbike. It burns around 8 litres of petrol per hour and with 60 odd litres on board you can be up there for 7 hours. If you are getting 50mph over the ground you can cover 350 miles. Five and a half hours is longest I have managed without landing. This was a trip from Ards to Donegal; south round the bottom of Lough Neagh, on to Portsalon and returning round the coast. Planes are inspected annually and if they pass this inspection they are issued with a Permit to Fly. Part of the inspection calls for a check flight. I do my own maintenance but you can pay a guy to do it. The four stroke engined microlights require minimal maintenance; changing the plugs and oil and blowing up the tyres about covers it. I use a two stroke engine and these require decoking every hundred and fifty hours. I have managed to average around hundred hours per year but fifty would be a more representative figure. The weather is not always suitable; life gets in the way.

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Kilclief Castle

We can’t fly in cloud, we can’t fly when it is raining and we can’t fly in the dark. There are minimum visibility requirements. Factors such as wind strength, wind direction and gusting play a part in deciding when I fly. A plane with a true air speed of 50mph isn’t going very far against a strong wind. That’s not to say you can’t fly when the wind is strong. I remember flying back to Ards with a speed over the ground hovering around 5mph; I could have walked quicker. It wasn’t bumpy, it was just that progress was slow. At Ards a steady 15mph wind from the South West would ground me but the same wind or stronger from the south coming over the waters of Strangford Lough isn’t a problem. Gusty conditions make for flying that ranges from unpleasant to down- right dangerous.

The gusts stress out both pilot and plane.

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Inverbrena Local History Group Magazine 2015

Strangford

Our training will have covered flying in all sorts of conditions since the conditions on take-off may not be the conditions you face on landing. It would be fair to say most pilots will have thrown in the towel long before the plane. Summer flying can be bumpy because of the thermals. So to avoid the thermals you keep away from flying in the middle of the day when they would be at their strongest.

Winter flying is smooth, visibility is excellent but it is cold; you wear heated gloves, heated shirts, you don’t stay up as long.

Prayer Meeting House, Blackcauseway

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Christ Church, Ballyculter

Audley’s Castle, Castle Ward 18

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Castle Ward House

Castle Ward Temple

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Grotto At Ardglass Down Recorder, 2 May, 1914

Chapeltown Photo reproduced with the kind permission of Joe McIvor

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Rock Angus Based on articles from the Down Recorder Newspaper

Rock Angus Lighthouse, reproduced with the kind permission of Joe McIvor

“The Lough of Strangford, formerly called Lough Coyne, is seventeen miles in length from Killard Point to Newtown-Ardes, and in some places five miles in breadth. It contains four or five islands: some of them upwards of one hundred acres in extent, and in general are well cultivated. Some of the land in the country of the Ardes cannot be excelled in Ireland. Once entered this harbour is deep and safe, but owing to the great rapidity of the tide, and the rocks near its entrance, it is not safe for vessels to attempt without a pilot. There are two passages to it, divided by a reef half a mile long, called Rock Angus, on the south side of which there is fifteen feet of water, and is the only channel navigable for merchant vessels.”

So wrote Anthony Marmion in 1855, in his book “The Ancient and Modern History of Maritime Ports of Ireland”. But the dangers posed by Angus Rock, Garter Rock and Pladdy Lug, lying between Ballyquintin Point and Killard Point, preceded Marmion’s publication by decades, with the first recorded wreck being that of a ship called “Eagle’s Wing” in October 1715, when the 76 people aboard lost their lives.(Wilsons book Shipwrecks of the Ulster Coast).

The Down Recorder of 7th March 1846, recorded that “The necessity for a lighthouse upon Rock Angus has become manifest to all who are acquainted with the entrance to Strangford Lough. This rock is situated at the centre of the entrance, and if a light were displayed on it, the bar, which is the only drawback upon Strangford Lough as a harbour, would be rendered less dangerous. The interests of humanity would be materially promoted, for a light-house on the place in question would lead many vessels, in stress of weather, to seek and find shelter in Strangford Lough instead of exposing themselves to be wrecked in making for more distant harbours. Respectably signed memorials are being forwarded to the Ballast Board upon this subject and we hope that they will receive that attention which the claims of the memorialists demand”.

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A report in the Down Recorder of 2 January 1875 related that little had improved in the intervening years, subsequent to the signing of the memorial in 1846. “Strangford Lough, on the east coast of Ireland, and the best haven of refuge in the Irish Sea for vessels caught in an easterly gale, is without a light to mark the dangers on its northern side. Standing nearly in the middle of the broad estuary is the Angus Rock, and it was resolved more than twenty years ago to exhibit a light from that inlet. The tower from which the light was to be displayed has been erected, and this conspicuous building must have served, ever since 1853, as a beacon by day – At Night however, the tower is invisible, and there are no leading lights to mark the channels on either passage into the lough. On May 23, 1871, we (The Shipping Gazette) described the position of the lough with respect to the navigation of ships coasting or those bound to or from ports of Great Britain. On the 19th February, 1872, we again directed the attention of the authorities to the urgent necessity of lighting up the tower on the Angus Rock through the stranding of the Henry Cooke, a vessel of 925 tons.

In March of the same year we commented upon the wreck of the Conflict, of Belfast, and in our maritime intelligence of the 11th inst, we reported the total loss of the James, of Aberystwith, from Drogheda for Ardrossan, in ballast. If there had been a light exhibited on Angus Rock, on the night of the 10th, the James, in all probability, could have run up the lough with perfect safety. Ballyquintin Point, on the north shore of the entrance, has outlying dangers, which might be avoided if there were any lights to mark the channel. There is deep water, and plenty of room; but, to avoid Angus Rock on a dark night, vessels are kept away to the northward, and get stranded on the shoals of Ballyquintin. The Commissioners of Irish Lights would, it is said, have to levy a tax on the shipping frequenting Strangford, as also a passing toll, for the support of the establishments at Angus, in the event of lighting up that rock. The tax however, could not by any system of extravagance be large, or so considerable as to be a heavy burthen on shipping.

Regular traders to Strangford may not stand so much in need of a guiding light as strangers caught in a storm off that coast. There is generally, some opposition from local interests when it is proposed to tax the shipping of a port for the benefit of others; but in the case of Strangford the trade is inconsiderable. Under these circumstances, the expenses of maintenance would fall on the shipping business which is done some miles up the lough at Strangford. Either the Irish Commissioners would have to levy a passing toll, or the light at Angus would have to be supported out of the Consolidated Fund, or the revenue of the Mercantile Marine Fund. If Strangford Lough could be run for at night with safety, and there were no buoyage, anchorage, or harbour tolls to frighten away shipmasters, there is every probability that the haven would become much frequented by vessels caught in contrary winds, or on the falling barometer. At present that splendid estuary, with excellent anchorage, is almost deserted, because no shipmaster unacquainted with the navigation likes to risk the destruction of his vessel, and loss of life, by taking the chance of passing the rock all right, and keeping clear of the banks to the northward. On the grounds of humanity we consider that the mouth of Strangford Lough ought to be marked by a good light at night, which should serve, likewise, as a supplement to the coasting lights. There is a broken link which Angus would fill up.”

Only a month later the Down Recorder published a further article, informing its readers of the signing of a memorial by owners of vessels, master mariners, pilots, and others, ready for presentation to the Board of Trade, petitioning for the erection of a light on Angus Rock, to enable vessels to enter with safety at night. “The memorial states that the work was commenced in May, 1850, and the lighthouse finished in 1853, at considerable cost, but, through the downright stupidity of some persons in authority, it has been allowed to remain ever since without a light, not withstanding repeated representations made on the subject by the late and the present Lord de Ros, Lord E. H. Trevor, Colonel Forde, D. S. Ker Esq., and other influential parties. In a former memorial forwarded to the Commissioners of Irish Lights, a list was given of 70 vessels lost and damaged, valued at £40,000, with a loss of 48 lives, between the 1st January, 1833, and the 1st April, 1867. Since that date several other vessels have been lost and damaged on this coast, which, it is presumed, might have been saved if a light had been erected at the place.

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The Henry Cooke, a ship of 500 tons register, three years ago struck on Angus Rock, and became a total wreck in Ballyquintin Bay; and the captain stated, in his affidavit of her loss, that, had there been a light, the wreck would not have occurred.

The memorial, which is ably drawn up, and presents the facts of the case with great clearness and force, further states that all the shipping bound for the towns of Portaferry, Strangford, Kircubbin, Killyleagh, Downpatrick, Castle-Espie, and other smaller ports on the shores of Strangford Lough, enter through this Channel, which they cannot now approach, when it is dark, thus frequently incurring serious risk and loss of time, and that memorialists are of the opinion that if it were well lighted, there would be a considerable increase in the trade of these ports….The facts set forth in the memorial ought to have some effect, on the minds of the authorities, and we trust that they will immediately provide facilities to enable vessels to enter at all times, and in all kinds of weather.”

But progress was painstakingly slow, it wasn’t until the late 1960s that the lighting of the beacon was taken more seriously by the Commissioners of Irish Lights as part of a programme for improving lighting in Strangford generally. Their lighting of Rock Angus was dependent on East Down Industrial and Development Committee first lighting the various leading marks up to the Narrows(Bright Light White Water: the story of Irish Lighthouses and their People, Bill Long). Approximately 130 years following the completion of the Rock Angus lighthouse, its lights flashed for the first time at sunset on Thursday 7th April 1983, with a character of flashing red every 5 seconds, and a range of 6.5 miles.

Image reproduced with the kind permission of Joe McIvor

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Strangford Past

By Michael Mc Conville

It is strange how quickly one can become familiar with change especially in one’s own community.

For example, if you were to talk to local people about the changes there have been to the village of Strangford over the past seventy years or so, most will say that the village has remained more or less the same, except of course for the changes to the square and harbour. But if you have the same conversation with someone who left the village a number of years ago and has just returned, they will point out a lot of small changes that have been made over the years and have been accepted as normal by the residents.

To illustrate my point I have put together a selection of photographs of Strangford village most of which were taken after 1940 and show some of these changes. As space is limited in the magazine, I will deal in this issue with Quarry Hill, now called Downpatrick Road, and will complete it in a future issue.

Left and below– The entrance to the village circa 1980, showing what we children called Joe Curran’s Plantation. These trees were removed between 19922002

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Strangford Presbyterian Church.

The foundation stone was laid on Thursday 14 July 1846 by Captain Nugent, Castleward.

The Church interior was simple with dark box-pews, oil lamps and a simple white painted pulpit with curving stairs and banisters. The last service was conducted in the church by Rev. Donald Watts on Sunday 7th December 2003

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Above – Quarry Hill 1959/1961 Note the houses on the right of the photograph, also the street light.

William Conway (Six and Six) and Spot.

Going into the village is Mrs McConville – my mother- on the left and Mrs Magee – my Aunt Annie – on the right

Left – Quarry Hill 2015

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The old National School and Dougherty’s field, 1960

The Old national School and St Joseph’s P. S., 2013

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Downpatrick Road, 1960. Note the tall Scotch Pine on Compass Hill, also the gate post at the end of the wall

Downpatrick Road taken from the same position, 2015

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Downpatrick Road early 1920s

Downpatrick Road 1997

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Quayle’s Haggard late 1970s

Link’s entrance, 1997

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Downpatrick Road 1940

Downpatrick Road 1997

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Ned

By Eamon McMullan, Newcastle

I mind well the day we landed out at Strangford. It was a Wednesday morning in the late spring. In fact it was the 9th of May 1945 for it was the day after wars end in Europe. The council had left a tar barrel and a pile of broken stones down near the Green for us to start working on filling in the pot holes in the Shore Road up to Kilclief, and a fine day it was too. But “all was not well in the state of Denmark” for in the enthusiasm to celebrate the end of the war the Village lads had burned the tar barrel in the middle of the Green and left us without the wherewithal to accomplish our bound duty. To tell you the truth I wasn’t a bit put out for it meant that I would have an easy day of it. At the end of the day Pat and Johnny were of the same frame of mind as myself.

Mind you they were the ones that were supposed to be in charge, as I was only there to do the labouring part of the job, the pulling and hauling so to speak. Pat was of the opinion that we should head back to the Council yard in Downpatrick but Johnny had the idea that we should see Old Siney for he lived nearby and was a Council member and all. So across the Square they went and into the “Office” where Siney transacted business, and he, being a sharp boyo, soon got on the phone to the yard and it was arranged that a lorry would bring out another barrel in an hour or so. There was something unfair about the fact that Pat and Johnny were invited into the pub next door while I was taken down to the Green and told to wait there. I was a bit miffed but decided to make the best of a bad job and overlook the injustice. More or less freed up for the hour by my two colleagues, I lay down on the lush grass of the Green, looking at the burned circle around the remains of the bonfire from the night before, considered the impracticality of war in general and watched the ferry boats coming and going across to Portaferry. It was a lovely interlude of relaxation in the otherwise rather humdrum life that I led although I was a bit of an amateur philosopher during idle moments in my day.

As I lay there the life of the Village unfolded before me. There was a small Dutch freighter tied up alongside the Big Quay, she was a diesel, painted grey, as were all the Dutch boats, and clean as a whistle. One of the crew men was riding s bicycle backwards around the Quay corner while sitting on the handlebars, to amuse the children. Some one said that his name was Otto and that he was looking for some one to sew a Dutch flag together for his boat seeing that the war was over and Holland was free from German occupation. I did not know how to pronounce the ship’s name but she was taking on a cargo of spuds bound for the starving cities of England. The bright coloured orange red leaded carts went in single file from the stores to the ship with their load of spuds, where each bag slid down the chute into the hold and they were carefully stacked and secured. I thought how dangerous the crossing of the Irish Sea was in time of war for these little coasters, never knowing when a torpedo might find them But war and warlike situations always was a puzzlement to me and all my family. Aggression, argument and confrontation and all that kind of nonsense made no sense to us. That line of thought led me on to consider the War itself and wonder how the German war machine had faltered and failed. They were well organized and disciplined and courageous. Just what had gone astray? It was beyond my comprehension. If I had been Hitler I would not have declared war on Russia, but then what did I know.

At that moment Pat and Johnny arrived back from the pub, disturbing my day dreams, just as the lorry turned up with the new barrel of tar. The Tar boiler had been lit and a good fire burned in the grate, the barrel was hoisted up and the tar oozed out through the opened bung hole into the boiler.

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It became a dark brown colour much more liquid as it heated and I loved the strange smell of the boiling liquid. A wee lad from the village, Eamon was his name, seemed to savour the rich aroma as much as I did and he patted my shoulder as he walked away. Then off we set, up the Chapel Hill, with a load of stones in the cart and the boiler trundling along behind latched on to the cart axle. Our cart was not as gaily painted as the normal farm carts. It was a nondescript colour with D.R.D.C. written on it. People said that it stood for Driver Richard Dick Carr, I think he was an important man in the Council.

The boiler itself was a crude affair. A cylinder about 4 foot in diameter on a set of iron wheels and a fire box underneath to heat the tar. Johnny would clean out the potholes with a big coarse brush and Pat would pour a layer of the molten tar out of a tin garden watering can with a spreader on the end of the spout that he drew from a spigot on the side of the boiler, then a layer of stones, then more tar, till the depression was nice and level. Meanwhile I just stood there watching, chewing away at a bit of grub, leading the life of Riley. I must have had the best job in the world for Pat and Johnny were the best fellows you could have to work with and made few demands of me. Often they would give me a share of the “goodies” in their biscuit box lunch containers. Or sometimes too a sup of tea sweetened with saccharine, because of the scarcity of sugar during the war. No doubt they treated me well. But then I am a patient sort myself anyway and I realize I do get carried away and think deep thoughts and day dream a lot. I was thinking of the old Poem about the Donkey by Chesterton: “Fools! For I also had my hour, One far fierce hour and sweet.

There was a shout about my ears and palms before my feet”.

I wondered if there would ever be a day like that in my life. And then the thought of the loose nail in one of my shoes made me think of that other story: “For the want of a nail the shoe was lost, for the want of a shoe the horse was lost , for the want of a horse the rider was lost for the want of a rider, the message was lost , for the want of a message the battle was lost and for the want of a battle the war was lost” Could a circumstance like that ever occur in the realm in which I move? You know, perhaps that’s what happened to the Germans in the war!!! Maybe that’s what went wrong just for the want of a good dependable horse, eh?

Perhaps I should say at this point in my story and maybe I forgot to tell you, that I am a horse and my name is Ned. Sometimes I’m inclined to forget unimportant details like that. We are a thoughtful and long thinking species you know and may be able to solve the problems of mankind if they would only listen to horse sense.

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On An Operation I Went through

By James Rooney, Tobermoney

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Field Names: Ballyculter

By Brian and Peig Denvir

Some years ago Brian and I began a project to list the field names within Ballyculter townlands, and in doing so allocated random numbers to the fields to better identify them. We consulted local farmers including William Crea, Leslie and George McKibbin, and the Orr and Lowe families. The results of this work can be seen below in the map and accompanying table of field names. Anything subsequently added to our table by Joan Magee is in brackets to better distinguish the additions from the original work. Not every field could be identified as their names could no longer be recalled, while some have been allocated more recent names.

Historic Map of Ballyculter Upper Townland

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Historic Map of Ballyculter Lower Townland

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Table of Field Names in Ballyculter Lower and Ballyculter Upper Townlands 1234-

41 42 Lemoni (This field name may be an anglicisation of the Irish “Leim-an-eich”, leap of the horse, or “leim-an-fhia”, leap of the deer) 43 Crab Apple Field

6-

44 Big Field 45 The Wish Field (This field name may be an Anglicisation of “Evish”, which was understood in Ulster as meaning coarse mountain pasture. For example Evishbrack in Co. Tyrone refers to speckled mountain pasture – “Irish Names of Places” by P. W. Joyce) 46 The Meadow Park

7 Martin Lowes Bog

47 John Doos Field

8 Lower Hay Field

48 1-9 The Bottom Field

9 Bog Fields

49

5-

10 Rough Park 10A The Hare’s Den

50 The Hare Field

11 Wall Door

51 Hollows

12 McGlennon’s Fields

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13 McGlennon’s Fields

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14 Hatchet Field (remains of house in this field)

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15 Upper Hay Field

55 56 Kilmalock/School Field (The Rev. James O’Laverty refers to this field as Kilmalock, in his book “An Historical Account of the Diocese of Down and Connor, Ancient and Modern”) 57 58 Balgorm (Bal very often stands for “Ball” in Irish, meaning a spot. Balgorm may therefore to the blue spot. This field borders the mill race at one side)

16 Daisy Hill 17 Yard Field 18 Garden Field

19 Road Field 20 Martin Lowe’s Hillside Field 21 Bunnland Fields (Bun is the Irish for an end, the end or foot of anything, such as a hill, or the land. Its often applied to bottom land, ie at the lower end of the farm or at the bottom of a hill – “The Origin and History of Irish Names of Places” by P. W. Joyce) 22 Bunnland Fields

59 The Nook 60 The Scrawns (May refer to the Irish “scraithe”, a sward or grassy surface of land. The diminutive “scrathan” means “little sward” with the plural being “scrahans”) 61 The Wee Church Hill 62 Robb’s gate

23 -

63Back Field

24 -

64 Waterworks Field

25 Ballyculter Field

65 The Common

26 Church Fields

66 The Grove

27 Rose’s Field Rose used to live in an old house at field gate

67 -

28 Church Green

68 Sofies

29 Nine Acre Field 9 Irish acres ie 13 English acres

69 The Meadows

30 Keaghy’s Well Field 30A McVeigh’s Well Field (This field was owned by the McVeigh family, who are listed in the Valuation Revision Books, 1885-1929) 31 Chimney Field

70 Far Balgorm

32 Wallis’s Field

72 Back Camp field

33 Flat Meadow

73 Camp at Dam 74 Camp Hill (Its believed locally that a military camp was once located here. “Cam” in Irish can refer to something, like a hill, that is crooked, bent or winding

34 -

71 The Point

74A Tullyratty Dam 35 Lint Mill Hills

75 Front Camp Hill

36 Seven Knowes

76 Green Field

37 -

77 -

38 -

78 Savages

39 Fir Tree Field

79 The Four Roads Field

40 -

80 Garden Field

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Taking a Stroll Through Ballyculter Upper and Lower Townlands

By Joan Magee

Beginning our journey at Cargagh Chapel we pass over the river, briefly entering the townland of Ballylenagh, before passing through to Ballyculter Lower. McGlennon’s field is to our left and to our right is Lowe’s farm, in an area known as Ringcladdy The name may originate from a time when Irish was the language spoken by the bulk of the population, as Rinn in Irish denotes a point of land, a promontory, and in Co. Down it is often anglicised as Ring, referring possibly to the hill situated within this geographical area. Claddy may be an Anglicization of “claidhighe” a muddy margin of a stream or river, as a river indeed flows nearby. It could equally refer to a marshy or miry place, describing the wet boggy condition of this area located by the river. Adjacent to Ringcladdy, but in Glebe townland and on the other side of this river is Craigalandin field which used to contain a bog, also The Wee Bog field. Also adjacent to Ringcladdy is the small townland of Isle McCricket, ‘McCrickard’s island’, the term isle is used not in the sense of a real island but rather in the alternative sense of ‘raised land in a bog’1 Ringcladdy was previously owned by Hugh Porter2 then James Porter3 followed by Eliza Porter.4 More recently the Lowe family were the proprietors. On the opposite side of the road, facing Ringcladdy farm is McGlennons Field (12), perhaps owing its name to a family who previously farmed here. I have only been able to locate valuation records for a James McGlennon to the north of this townland.5 Walking towards Ballyculter Martin Lowe’s Hillside field (20), on the right hand side, contains a fort at the summit.

Walking further on we reach a lane. Looking down the lane George McKibbin currently lives in the dwelling to the right, once the home of the Porter family. In the 1920s Rhoda Wright sold groceries in her shop here while Mrs Reggie Quayle sold cigarettes, tobacco, sweets and light groceries in the 1930s. Opposite this end of the lane and along the roadside lived Bob McDowell and his mother.

Bob had a wooden leg and sold cigarettes, sweets, toffee and clay pipes here in the 1930s. He moved to Ballytrustan in the 1940s.6 Alongside the road and just prior to the entrance to Keaghy’s mill, lived Johnny McIlheron, stonemason, thatcher and well-sinker.7 Further on down George McKibbin’s lane, between Wallis’s field and the Chimney field is Bud’s loney. Edith Orr, a sister of Harriet (Orr) Pendleton, was known as Bud. The loney was taken by George Conway when he travelled across the pads to Ballyculter school from Legnegoppack.

Corn and Flax mills were owned and operated by the Keaghey family. “The mill was operated by water from a river held in a catchment area known as the Dam, falling down approx 15 feet on to a circular steel wheel surrounded by still buckets which, with the thrust of the water, forced the wheel to revolve, providing power for the machinery in the mill to operate. Robert Keaghey had a right to obtain water power from a header dam at Tullyratty, a mile above his mill. He occasionally, when going to operate his mill, would walk up to Tullyratty, lift a sluice gate, and enable more water to come down the river through Ballyculter, and in to a smaller Dam some 150 yards above the mill.

George McKibbin at the Chimney Field

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This Dam was also operated by a sluicer gate.”8 The Kiln was where the grain was dried, fired by coke brought from the Gas Works in Downpatrick. The grain was dried for 2 days before being trucked down to the mill to be ground. Millers included Bob Rogan, Frank Curran, Arthur Smith and John McClemont, who was in addition a gifted stone cutter. Robert Alexander Birch, from Portaferry, was a miller in Ballyculter, living here from 1886 until 1893. His children Frank and Margaret attended Ballyculter school.9 The flax mill was in operation in the 1800s and was located 200 yards below the corn mill. It was operated by steam. The scutchers’ houses and the mill no longer exist, but the 50 foot high red brick chimney located in The Chimney Field (31), still stands as a memorial to those bygone days.

P J Lennon’s grandmother’s family lived for a time in Ballyculter, convenient to Keaghey’s mill, and for many years his grandmother was the “postwoman”, delivering the mail on foot around the district, as did P.J.’s Uncle Patrick for a time before he joined the Royal Marines. His grandmother later moved to a cottage half-way between Strangford and Ballyculter where P.J. was a regular visitor in his youth. He found Willie McKinley fascinating and Willie had a keen interest in books, newspapers reading and local history.10 Moving on, passing the site of the old dam on our right, we walk towards Christ Church Ballyculter, in the process travelling out of the townland of Ballyculter Lower and entering that of Ballyculter Upper. The Rev. W.E. Kennedy in his book “The Bangors and Ballyculter” believes we can assume that “Christ Church” Ballyculter came into being on April 13th 1882, when the Church was reopened following remodelling. No mention of this dedication exists in records prior to this date. A tablet in the inner porch records the re-consecration of the Church: “Christ Church, Ballyculter To the glory of God and in memory of Harriette Margaret Viscountess Bangor who died on the 4th day of July, 1880.

This Church was rebuilt by her husband Major Andrew Nugent, her children Edward, Viscount Bangor, Henry Ward, William Ward, Bernard Ward, Somerset Ward, Annette Head and Miriam Nugent assisted by a few of her relatives and friends…..”

The Lych-Gate wasn’t built until 1888 at the cost of £50, a gift from Admiral Ward. It was restored in 1952 at the expense of Mr and Mrs Croucher.

We are now in “Churchtown.” The Orr family’s farm is on our right as we pass Ballyculter Church, the river passing through the lawn in front of the dwelling house. At this point we arrive at a staggered crossroads. Taking the left turn would take us pass the Orange Hall. A new Orange Hall was opened at Ballyculter 1868, on the property of Viscount Bangor, the site of which his lordship generously granted at a nominal rent. “The new hall is a neat substantial structure, and besides the purpose to which it is specially dedicated, we understand that it will be available for a Sunday school, prayer-meetings, and other objects of religious character.” Irish politician William Johnston of Ballykilbeg formally opened the hall at the invitation of the committee. “The attendance so far exceeded the accommodation afforded by the hall that an awning had to be erected on a vacant piece of ground immediately adjacent, and here the great majority of the visitors assembled by preference, the warmth of the evening rendering this al fresco retreat much more agreeable than the hall. The oratorical portion of the proceedings was preceded by a soiree, at which the greater number of the company, female as well as male, appeared decorated with Orange scarfs, ribbons, neckties, &c. On Mr. Johnston’s arrival being announced, the company issued forth, to meet him, before he approached the hall; to which he was escorted amid loud cheers, waving of hankerchiefs, hats, &c.

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On entering the hall he was conducted round it with similar manifestations of welcome, accompanied by peals of Kentish fire.”11 At the cross roads, the road straight ahead leads to Cairntaggart. The first dwelling on the left along this road was once that of the local Blacksmith Barney Laverty. In P. J. Lennon’s time the local “smiddy” was Leo Laverty in the village, a kindly man. His family was related to Monsignor O’Laverty, the well-known writer on antiquities in Down and Antrim, who often stayed at Churchtown. P.J. Lennon recalled that very often when he happened to visit there would be one or two horses waiting their turn and the men in charge of the animals would be inside enjoying a pull on the pipe or a cigarette and a chat with the smith. In the 1940s Mrs Leo Laverty - from her hut at Ballyculter - sold cigarettes tobacco matches candles, lemonade and paraffin.12 A little way up the road past Leo’s workshop there was a field at Cairntaggart where the local football team played. The playing area ran approximately East to West. At the East end was a small knowe, ideal for observing play. (In the hills to the West it was believed that poteen was distilled up there in the peace of the mountain. In a field next to a house which was once a post office at Ballyculter, the army would camp on occasions).13 It was in 1948 that Robert C Davidson discovered scribings on an outcrop of Silurian rock in front of the farm dwellings belonging to Leo Laverty. The scribings consist of two groups of concentric circles, were made by pocking with a blunt pointed tool. This type of rock ornamentation would appear to have been in fashion during the Bronze Age, and possibly also in the Iron Age.14 The road to the right leads to Castleward. Following this road, the first building on our left was once that of Ballyculter National School. P.J. Lennon recalled that his father spent the majority of his school days here, grappling with the three “Rs” under the sharp eyes of Mr. Ludgate. P. J. recalled his father recounting an incident which occurred while he was at school. Apparently on occasion the staghounds were in the area, and the boys were excited when they heard the sound of the braying hounds. They dropped their slates and galloped out without permission, following the hunt for the remainder of the day. The fun evaporated though when they returned to Mr. Ludgate. 15 From the start the school was a mixed school for Protestant and Catholic children but it closed in 1969. It was purchased by Ballyculter Parish in 1974 and leased as a dwelling house. The old tablet on the wall once bore the inscription “Ballyculter National school, 1823” but the word “Ballyculter” was erased during World War 2 to prevent the Germans from knowing where they were if they invaded.16 Behind Ballyculter school is a field known as Kilmalock17 or Church Field (56), the site of the original ancient chapel of Ballyculter, dedicated to St. Malachy. Human remains were previously unearthed in this field.

Above the School House and the School House Field (56) are located the Balgorm Field (58) and The Far Balgorm Field (70). These field names may again originate from the Irish Language, “Gorm” is the Irish for blue, while “Bal” may originate from the Irish “Beal”, meaning “mouth” or “opening” or “approach”. Or could it originate from “bealach”, a path, passage or way? The two fields are located alongside the old Mill Race which travelled down to Keaghy’s mills, and the field names may refer in some way to the water that flowed along this path from Tullyratty Dam. Balgorm may even refer to a “blue spot” as Bal frequently stands for Ball, a spot.18 Balbane near Killybegs in Donegal refers to a whitish spot.

Passing Orr’s farmyard, to our right, we travel upwards to the old Alms Houses. Just before arriving at the old Alms house, there is a lane on the right, which leads you to a place know as Englishtown.

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“The old Strangford to Downpatrick road came through Carrowcasey (Strangford Upper) past where the waterworks are at Englishtown (Ballyculter Upper) and through part of John Orr’s farm to the Turn House, on what is now the Churchtown road. Orr’s old farm in Englishtown was a yeoman’s house around the time the Wards came to the area from Cheshire and the old purlins can still be seen crossing from wall to wall”19

Yeoman’s House, Englishtown, Ballyculter Upper

Left – Photo of Mrs Harriett Pendleton

Built at the expense of the Hon. Sophia Ward for the accommodation of four “decayed females,” old Alms houses were paid for out of an endowment of £1000 and cost £365-16s-4 ½d.20 The last resident was Mrs Harriett Pendleton – also known as Mrs Pentland locally21 who died in 1972 aged 92. She was born in Ballyculter in 1880 and attended the old school in the village, being taught by Mr. Ludgate.

Her mother paid two shillings every week in to a school clothing fund. A short time before Christmas every year the fund would be distributed and the then Lady Bangor also added some money to the fund. Entertainment in those days included dancing on the roads, and old John Dougherty would scold them if the steps were incorrect. John had a brother who was at sea and when he came home on a holiday he would often sing for them. In Harriet’s young days there was one old character called John Murphy who was blind. When John was ready to leave her house Harriet’s mother would instruct her to take him to Willie Orr’s where Mrs Orr would give her a farl of soda bread liberally spread with butter and jam.

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When she left school Harriett went to work in Belfast, working there for some years before eventually marrying and returning to Ballyculter. She was caretaker of the old school for 12 years and lived in her home at the old Alms House from 1937 until she died.22

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Pat McKay, http://www.placenamesni.org The Annual Rateable Valuation Lists, 1864-74, 1875-84, 1885-98 The Annual Rateable Valuation Lists, 1899-1908 The Annual Rateable Valuation Lists, 1909-21, 1921-29 The Annual Rateable Valuation Lists, 1875-84, 1885-98, 1899-1908 Leslie McKibbin, The Country Shops and Packmen of Yesteryear, Inverbrena 1997-1998 George Conway, Across the Pads to School, Inverbrena 1995 George Jackson talks to Leslie McKibbin, Mills of Ballyculter, Inverbrena 2001 George Jackson talks to Leslie McKibbin, Mills of Ballyculter, Inverbrena 2001) P.J. Lennon, Life at Grandmother’s Back in the Old Days, Down Recorder 26th July, 1984 Opening of Ballyculter Orange Hall, Down Recorder 16 May 1868 Leslie McKibbin, The Country Shops and Packmen of Yesteryear, (Inverbrena 1997-1998 P.J. Lennon, Life at Grandmother’s Back in the Old Days, Down Recorder 26th July, 1984 Robert C. Davidson, Rock Scribings in County Down, Ulster Journal of Archaeology Vol. 13 (1950) P.J. Lennon, Life at Grandmother’s Back in the Old Days, Down Recorder 26th July, 1984 Rev. W.E. Kennedy, The Bangors and Ballyculter, 1980 James O’Laverty, An Historical Account of the Diocese of Down and Connor, Ancient and Modern, 1878 P.W. Joyce, The origins and History of Irish Names of Places, Vol 3, 1913 Brian Fitzsimons, The Road from Downpatrick to Strangford: A History,” Invebrena 2010 Rev. W.E. Kennedy, The Bangors and Ballyculter, 1980 P.J. Lennon, Life at Grandmother’s Back in the Old Days, Down Recorder 26th July, 1984 Myles Stone’s Diary, Down Recorder, 31st July 1970

Advertisement from the Down Recorder 17 February 1838 42

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KILCLIEF BELL

by Michael Mc Conville.

In 1950 Pope Pius XII declared that the year should be celebrated as a “Holy Year.” To mark the event the parishioners of Kilclief decided to install a bell at the parish church of St. Malachy.

On the 15th August 1952 this idea was realised when a newly installed bell was blessed and named “St. Joseph’s Bell” by the Parish Priest Rev. E. J. Crossin. The bell was rung for the first time during the celebration of Solemn High Kilclief Church, built 1785, with the new bell tower built in 1952 Mass on the Feast of the Assumption. The Mass was celebrated by Fr. Crossin assisted by Fr. Robert Denvir C.C. as Deacon and Fr. Charles Denvir C.C. as Sub Deacon. Fr. Robert and Fr. Charles are brothers and natives of Kilclief parish. Rev. Joseph Campbell C.C. Kilclief was master of ceremonies and the sermon was preached by Rev. Fr. Robert Quinn C.SS.R. Ardglass. Presiding in the Sanctuary was Very Rev. D. J. Canon McWilliams P.P. V.F. Downpatrick.

After the Mass Fr. Crossin thanked the priests who had taken part in the ceremonies and congratulated the people of the parish. He paid a special tribute to Fr. Campbell on the work he had done on the acquisition of the new bell. He also lauded the generosity of the people and said how this generosity would enable him to continue the work of adorning the church in a manner befitting its tradition and position as the parish church of Kilclief. He urged them to offer each day to Mary Queen of Heaven and Queen of Ireland the beautiful devotion of the Angelus.

The bell was to be rung by Mr. Charles Kerr who lived in the house beside Kilclief Church. If at any time Mr. Kerr was unable to carry out this service it was to be undertaken by a senior pupil from Kilclief School. I believe the bell ringer was chosen from the altar servers who were on duty that week and he was given permission to leave the classroom in time to get over to the church and ring the 12o’clock Angelus.

The bell itself which was inscribed “Holy Year 195O”and weighed 12 cwt. was cast by the firm of John Taylor & Co. Loughborough. It was installed in a bell tower designed by Dr. P. B. Gregory and erected by Mr. James Denvir, contractor, Kilclief. Unfortunately the bell cracked and on the 10th May 1956 a new bell, which was supplied free of charge by the makers, was installed and blessed by Fr. Crossin P.P. assisted by Fr. Campbell C.C. In May 1971 a new church was built in Kilclief but the bell remained where it had been placed and continued to be rung from the tower of the old church. This practice continued until 1984 when the tower was removed and the walls of the old church lowered to a safe level.

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The bell was stored in the garage behind the parochial house but in January 1985, as the result of an accidental fire the bell was damaged and had to be recast. It was then installed at the rear/side of the new church and again rang out on the 23rd November 1986. Rev. Fr. M. Kelly, the Parish Priest at the time, remarked that it was nice to hear the bell again abeit not as loud as desired. This was due to its new position and height.

Thanks to new technology the bell, in its new position, was rung by means of an electronic timing device and this worked satisfactorily for a number of years. Unfortunately after this time the electric motor went faulty and the bell clapper seized. The bell remained unusable until Rev. Fr. Peter O’Kane was appointed Parish Priest Of Kilclief and Strangford in 2014. Fr. Peter decided that the parish bell should be brought back into proper use and so he arranged for it to be repositioned at the front of Kilclief Bell being removed from the tower before Church and a new striking system installed. This work the tower was dismantled in 1984 was carried out during March/ April 2015. At 12noon on Sunday 3rd May the bell was rung for the first time in its new position and Fr. Peter led the parishioners, who happened to be present on the occasion, in the recitation of the Angelus and the singing of the chorus of the hymn” Ava Maria”.

Bell repositioned 1986-2014

Sunday 3rd May 2015 Father Peter O’Kane P.P. and Michael McConville 44

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1739 Shipwrecks, Kilclief Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, PRONI Reference D2092/1/5

Shipwrecks sometimes proved advantageous to the local population in the Inverbrena area.

‘The ship Europa of London, a letter of marque bound for Leghorn ... in her passage to Westchester to load lead and other goods for Leghorn mett our present storm and was forc’d down this channel ... was put ashore in the Bay of Kilclief and stove in pieces the Capt. one Thos. Dawson with all his crew were saved except his wife and chief mate who were lost she is a ship of great value the country plundred greatly ...’

1 Jan. 1739 Letter from Francis Lascelles, Killough, to Mr Justice Ward, Dublin.

On the 5th January 1739 Robert Ward, Downpatrick, wrote to Mr Justice Ward, Dublin “In my last I gave you an acct of our shipwreck and ye outrageous villainy of ye country people. The Lieut. Of ye Litchfield man of war having sav’d 14 of his men who were destitute of food and clothing applied to me for money…There were 40 barrels of gunpowder in ye ship cast away at Killclief all of wch is carryd off by ye country (but damaged) they have also got a good number of muskets etc, out of the three lost ships that were cast away and it is more than probable that the Papists have got the best share of both…I am told they have a good store of fire arms, the Vicar insists that they have a right to keep them.”

On the 3rd February 1739 Robert Ward, Downe, wrote to Mr Justice Ward, that he had not yet completed his enquiries “in order to find out the plunderers because of the badness of the weather and my own infirmity but I have made a small progress in relation to Kilclief wreck and Terence Stogdale has been exceedingly diligent in making search and has detected several persons..” He proceeded to list the goods which had been found with the various tenants: with John Polly of Ballylenagh “one piece of timber”, with Pat Magrah “one velvit cop”. The Mackilians of Loughkeeland “sold a barrile of gunpowder in Downe, they were continually at the wrecke.”

Painting of a ship by James Murphy. Reproduced with the kind permission of his son, James (Jim) Murphy

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Opening of St. Malachy’s Park , Sunday 16th April 1944

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Strangford Annual Summer Festival 2015 Photos reproduced with the kind permission of John Hanna

r e m l m a v u i S t s e F Inverbrena Local History Group Magazine 2015

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r e m m Su Festival

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er Summ Festival

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r e m m Su Festival

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Christmas In Strangford (circa 1940s)

By Eamon McMullan

Like a caring watchful guardian, the little church stands there On the very top of Chapel Hill, above the village square.

The Strangford people gather there to worship and to pray, With their hopes and cares and worries, on the eve of Christmas Day. Through the chapel gate, to celebrate the feast of Christmas Day. The atmosphere of peace and calm, the quietness and hush, Seems to banish thoughts of haste or fear, of selfishness or rush, Where Martha played the organ and Rosie sang the hymns, With Big John, a tenor tremolo, Des and Brendan in the wings Adeste and SilentNight are sung, See Amid the Winter Snow, And holly round the Stations hung and prayers were murmured low.

The atmosphere within the church was respectful and sincere, As the candles and the incense burned and the midnight hour drew near.

Father Crossin and the altar boys, Pat and Jim and Tom, Came out onto the altar and the choir broke into song.

Very soon the Mass was over and we all walked down the hill, Sineys lantern, at the corner, burning brightly in the chill.

Some of us went home to soup, some to a boiled duck egg, Some to a bit of turkey or a slice of mutton leg.

And Father Christmas did his best, the children’s eyes went wide, To see what their Christmas stockings held when they got to look inside.

Martha was Martha Sharvin. Old Siney’s wife. She was the only organist in the village. Rosie was Rosie Curran, who lived near the “Depot” aka Flynn’s Store. She married Johnny Boden, shoemaker to the town for many years. Big John was John Fitzsimons, known as Gertie’s John, to differentiate between all the others of the same name. Des was my brother and Brendan was Martha’s son. Father Crossin needs no explanation. Pat and Jim were sons of Tommy Quail, the ferryman, and Tom was Tom Travers, a famous magistrate. Siney put up a paraffin storm lantern each Christmas Eve to give light in a hamlet without electricity right up until 1952.

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Strangford Annual Regatta Tuesday 29th July 1924 Reproduced with the kind permission of John Hanna

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