Blue Wings Functional issue January 2018

Functional issue 01 — 18

BLUE WINGS DON’T BE SHY! HELP YOURSELF TO THIS ISSUE AND SHARE IT WITH A LOVED ONE!

T HE BI G C H IL L

The art of surviving an Arctic adventure GO O D L I F E

Finding the happiest retreat in southern France I T ’ S A RECO R D

Vinyl makes a comeback in Helsinki

U N ASSU M I N G

STYLE HEROES

GET A FREE GIFT *

FROM ONE OF OUR HELSINKI SHOPS 持有本页活动码照片，您可以在芬兰店换取一 份免费精美礼物。 数量有限，先到先得。 （每人仅限换取一次）

HOA2018 CAMPAIGN CODE

*Please show photo of the campaign code. Only one gift per person.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF FINLAND

ROCK CHURCH Temppeliaukion Church

Aleksanterinkatu

tu

ka

kin

dri

Pohjoisesplanadi

MARKET SQUARE

erg ink

eim

rh

tu ka tie tu ka tie ta au nR e HAM läin ART MUSEUM Ete en

join

h Po

uta

Ra

tu ka kin dri Fre

Fabianinkatu

Kasarmikatu

Korkeavuorenkatu

ie

int

s

läe

u

ne

at

an Eteläesplanadi

i

ad

n pla

RAILWAY STATION

Arkadiankatu

eb

Espa

M

Vanha kirkkopuisto

FINNISH MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

Arkadiankatu

Pohjoisesplanadi

Ete

u

Fre

LOUIS VUITTON

n Ru

ie

int

eim tu

ka

tin

ro

nn

Lö

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Unioninkatu

Fabianinkatu

Kluuvikatu

Mikonkatu

Keskuskatu

rh

ne

an M

STOCKMANN DEPARTMENT STORE

THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE

Aleksanterinkatu

FORUM

Editorial

Welcome onboard

Arja Suominen SVP, communications and corporate responsibility

FOKUS MEDIA FINLAND Managing editor

Art director Sub-editor Visual designers

Editorial assistant English editing Reprographics

Amanda Soila Sirpa Ärmänen Shelly Nyqvist Sesilja Lindell Iris Mark Aino Vähälä Silja Kudel Faktor Oy

Cover Rolf Ekroth by Guillaume Roujas Behind this issue Daniel Allen, Mark Andrews, Tim Bird, Alessandro Capoccia, Mark Fletcher, Simon Fry, Laura Iisalo, Silja Kudel, Mirva Lempiäinen, Lissu Moulton, Katja Pantzar, ­Guillaume Roujas, Wif Stenger, Heli ­Sorjonen, and Þórgunnur Þórsdóttir Submissions and feedback bluewings@fokusmedia.fi Blue Wings online www.issuu.com/finnair_bluewings Editorial Offices Hämeentie 153 C, 00560 Helsinki, Finland tel. +358 40 630 8253 firstname.lastname@fokusmedia.fi Advertising Sales Jaana Lindvall-Harki tel. +358 40 582 1416 Publisher Fokus Media Finland Printed by Punamusta, Joensuu, Finland 2018 Paper UPM Valor 61g Cover paper Stora Enso LumiArt 200g Circulation 44,000 ISSN-0358-7703

Editor-in-Chief Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com Finnair Head Office Tietotie 9 A, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 (0)9 818 81, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland Customer feedback www.finnair.com/feedback or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/403, FI-01053 Finnair www.finnair.com, www.finnair.fi, www.finnairgroup.com

Happy 2018!

O

ne of my favourite things to do is curl up on my sofa on a Friday night with a magazine or two. Browsing through the pages is both relaxing and inspiring, as I forget my daily worries and my thoughts shift to new interesting topics.

At Finnair, we hope our Blue Wings magazine creates the same magic by taking you to new places and sparking new ideas while giving you This issue boasts a break from everyday life. a new look and To mark the start of a new year we’ve turned a page with Blue Wings, which was feel, which founded in 1980, making it one of the world’s reflects our oldest inflight magazines. This issue boasts a new feel with an array of exciting stories and a Nordic origins. smart layout, which reflects our Nordic origins.

In keeping with this month’s theme of being functional, we’d love to hear from you. Which stories do you like? What would you like to see more of? What type of content is most practical for your travel needs? You can reach us with feedback at bluewings@fokusmedia.fi.

Wishing you a relaxing and inspiring journey!

Arja Suominen

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

3

SALE Amazing savings on showroom beds LIMITED AVAILABILITY At Hästens, the true value of deep sleep has been our passion for generations. Our beds, made from the best natural materials by our skilled craftsmen, are more than a product; they are an investment for life. Now is a great time to discover the true value of deep sleep.

hastens.com

HÄSTENS STORE HELSINKI Mannerheimintie 8, 00100 Helsinki Tel. 020 780 1370

Contents January

Wellness holidays in France (p.24) Icy adventures (p.42)

Iceland’s majestic views (p.34)

Goa’s glorious flavours (p.29)

Dream

Keep your curiosity alive

ITALY The perfect view........................................................................10 GLOBAL PULSE Well, hello porridge.................................................................. 12

Explore Think beyond the box

AGENDA Our frosty calendar .................................................................16

SMART STUFF Urban design vs. climate change........................................32

WISE CRAFT Beanies from Finland...............................................................18

ICELAND A visual journey into the island’s rugged beauty.........34

SHANGHAI A historic facelift ..................................................................... 20

CONVERSATION Sally Kohn chases the Northern Lights............................39

PRODUCT INSPIRATION In the mood for Norwegian comfort ................................22

PROFILE The man behind Tom of Finland bedding...................... 40

TOULOUSE The Finnish-French passion project .................................24

FIELD TRIP The art of an Arctic adventure.............................................42

INDIA Goa’s spice of life .....................................................................29

LANZAROTE A road trip through lunar landscape.................................54 JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

> 5

Contents January

Fly

The world of Finnair

Create

Celebrate accomplishments

FINNAIR NEWS What’s new.............................................. 80 FINNAIR SERVICES Fly the Nordic way .......................82 FINNAIR PLUS Frequent flyer rewards ........................83 SHOPPING Wish list from the Finnair Shop .................84

CREATIVE CORNER Rising stars in Finnish men’s fashion.................................58

MY FINNAIR Passenger stories......................................... 86

FLORENCE Sneak peek for fashionistas................................................. 66

WELLNESS Comfortable flying ........................................88

SKY FOOD Culinary options in the air ............................87

HELSINKI The big fat vinyl revival.......................................................... 68

ENTERTAINMENT Stay connected...................................89

INVESTIGATION Could design diplomacy be the next innovation?........ 72

HOLIDAY SAMPLER Introducing Finnair Holidays.....91

SHOWROOM Original retro chic dining ......................................................76 Q&A Blogger captures stunning details of Helsinki ..............78

STAFF TIPS Ideas for wine-loving travellers................ 90 SUSTAINABILITY Walk the talk ........................................92 FLEET Modern fleet at your service.................................93 MAPS Destination check-list and Helsinki Airport......94 FINLAND FACTS Fascinating figures..............................98

Helsinki’s charming details (p.78)

Design in spotlight (p.76)

Experience more with Finnair Holidays (p.91)

6

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Finnish menswear heads to Florence (p.58)

T H E A L L- N E W V C L A S S E X P E R I E N C E T H E E X C E P T I O N A L®

The all-new V Class range V40 / V50 / V60 / V65 / V78

Global Launch at: boot Düsseldorf 20–28 Jan 2018, stand 6B21

PRINCESS FINLAND +358 500 667754 info@princess.fi

FIND OUT MORE AT PRINCESSYACHTS.COM

ARCTIC MAGIC IN KEMI SEA LAPLAND

EXPERIENCE THE SEA, SNOW AND ICE WITH ICEBREAKER SAMPO CRUISE AND THE KEMI SNOWCASTLE.

All-year-round SnowCastle opens in Kemi in December 2018!

World Luxury Hotel Winners SnowHotel and Seaside Glass Villas introduce adventurous accommodation.

SnowRestaurant offers arctic delicacies by the ice tables and frozen sea numerous unique adventures from ice driving to snowmobile safaris to the Arctic Adventure Island.

www.visitkemi.fi sales@visitkemi.fi +358 16 258 878

HELI SORJONEN

Dream

Keep your curiosity alive

Read the whole story on page 24.

The happiness quest We visit a different kind of wellness retreat in southern France.

Coordinate PHOTO ALESSANDRO CAPOCCIA

N 44° 06’26.8” E 09° 43’33.3” Location Manarola, Italy

A place to be

I

t’s mid-summer when I take off on my v ­ intage Vespa to Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre, or five small villages along the coast of Levante, in ­Liguria, Northwest Italy. The coastal terrain is of ­exceptional and rare beauty, where man and nature work together. Manarola is my favourite of the five villages. The c­ olourful houses have their feet in the sea while also conquering the hill – the ­windows ­facing the endless horizon of the blue ­Mediterranean. The best moment to view the landscape is in the early morning; the so-called calm before the tourists arrive and because the scenery is particularly astonishing at dawn.

– Alessandro Capoccia, Italian photographer based in Paris.

10

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Suomen kaunein koti 2017, MTV3

UNELMIESI KOTI SUOMESSA Modernit arkkitehtien suunnittelemat kodit asumiseen ja vapaa-aikaan

Ota yhteyttä: W W W. S U N H O U S E . F I

/

info@sunhouse.fi

/

020

7933

060

Sunhouse yhdistää arkkitehtisuunnittelun ja helpon talopakettitoimituksen.

Rakensitpa omakotitaloa tai vapaa-ajan asuntoa, Sunhouselta saat kauniin yksilöllisen talon, joka täyttää kaikki toiveesi ja istuu tontillesi täydellisesti. Sinä päätät minkälaisen talon haluat ja ammattilaiset toteuttavat sen. Ekologiset rakenteemme ovat puhtaasti puuta, hengittäviä ja terveellisiä. Valitsemme talosi materiaalit aina laatu edellä, jotta tiedät saavasi rahoillesi vastinetta. Tutustu suunnittelemiimme talomalleihin W W W. S U N H O U S E . F I

Global pulse

Inspiration and ideas from across the network

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

3x

JUSSI HELLSTEN

FAZER FOODS

The good list

GET YOUR OATS As January is oatmeal month, we celebrate with our picks of the world’s leading oatmeal eateries: 1. Denmark’s GRØD bills itself as the world’s first porridge bar, with four cafés in Copenhagen and one in Arhus. Try their organic gluten-free oat-­ quinoa porridge, which can also be ordered online.

2. London’s lovely 26 Grains, tucked away in Neal’s Yard, serves up a range of porridge options and cold bowls including Apple & Cinnamon Bircher Muesli – almond milk soaked oats with apple, vanilla sauce, cinnamon, rye, and almond crunch.

3. NYC’s OatMeals lays claim to the title of “world’s first all-oatmeal café,” with close to 30 sweet and savoury oatmeal bowls.

Sample the Chinese Style Congee Porridge with poached egg, scallions, and soy sauce – it takes the concept of oats to a whole new level.

12

BLUE WINGS

Kitchen speak

JIMINY CRICKET!

Light art at Lux Helsinki

SMALL WONDERS

BRIGHT THERAPY D

uring the dark months, find the light fantastic throughout the Nordics with a range of illuminating festivals.

From Jan 6 to 10, Helsinki’s Lux festival sparks up the central Kaartinkaupunki neighbourhood with 11 fabulous installations.

Over in Norway, Tromsø’s Northern Lights Festival features jazz, pop, opera, rock, folk music, and dance in a weeklong event that runs Jan 27 to Feb 4. Meanwhile, in the Icelandic capital, Reykjavik’s Dark Music Days contemporary and new music event runs from Jan 25 to 27, and is followed up by the brilliant Winter Lights Festival from Feb 1 to 4. One of the highlights is Pool Night, when many outdoor thermal pools are open offering a unique view of the Northern Lights.

JANUARY 2018

The growing trend of insect-based food offers a good source of protein and an environmentally friendly alternative for those passionate about the planet. Finland’s Fazer bakery has launched what is likely the world’s first insectbased bread, made from dried crickets, wheat flour, and seeds.

Available on grocery store shelves throughout Finland in 2018.

Destination Tampere Region

Tampere Helsinki Stockholm Riga

The gateway between Europe and Finland • 2nd International airport in Finland • Over 300 connecting flights via Helsinki, Stockholm and Riga • Popular airBaltic route to Riga opened in 2017

www.airrport.fi @FlyTampere

1h Bremen

2h Budapest

3h

Global pulse

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

Inspiration and ideas from across the network

The book nook

MEDITATION GOES MAINSTREAM

ISTOCK

JOHN STENERSEN

TRENDING

DIGITAL DETOX M

aking time to unplug is a higher priority than ever before, according to Well+Good’s travel trends for 2018. The New York-based lifestyle and wellness publication predicts that analogue destinations will be the new “it” spots in travel, with Wi-Fi free cafés, hotels, and phone-free social clubs taking the lead this year. Leading the way is Chicago bookstore, bar, and café Kibbitznest, a “proudly wifi-free zone.”

Meanwhile, the UK family-owned mEat Bar & Grill in Newport, South Wales, hosts a tech-free date night every Thursday that’s making headlines simply by asking diners to put away their devices and talk face-toface with their dinner companions.

14

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

One of America’s top meditation teachers, Light Watkins, releases an alluring addition to meditation literature this month: Bliss More: How to Succeed in Meditation Without Really Trying (Ballantine/Random House). Special endorsement comes from alternative medicine guru Deepak Chopra: “With him (Watkins) as your guide, you will unlock the secrets to establishing a regular and powerfully healthy daily practice.”

One to watch

NEW NORDIC ART HOTSPOT Norway’s Henningsvær, in the Lofoten archipelago, is abuzz with art. Home to the Kaviar Factory, an international venue for contemporary art housed in what was once a caviar factory, the small fishing village is also a great place to spot the works of Mr Hmm, a talented street artist – “the Norwegian answer to Banksy” according to British Vogue.

Agenda

Global calendar for curious minds

COMPILED BY SIMON FRY

Cold & Cool It’s the season to enjoy the snow – and ice.

1

3 GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH Family Opportunities for children and adults to explore, enjoy, and experience snow-related fun will stretch across 35 countries on the seventh World Snow Day. Alongside the thrills, the day aims to teach children how to preserve snow and be safe on and off it. More than 100 resorts will offer free skiing and snowboarding.

BLUE WINGS

4

© HTB

BRRRILIANT IDEAS BusinessThe fifth Polar Bear Pitching event sees startups sell their business propositions to potential investors.

The catch? Pitchers must stand waist-deep in ice cold water. The record pitch made thus far was four minutes 53 seconds in 2016 – will the five-minute barrier be broken this year?

Feb 6–7 Oulu, Finland polarbearpitching.com

Jan 21 Globally world-snow-day.com

16

2

HENRI LUOMA

JANUARY 2018

WINTER WONDERS Art Every year, at least two million people from Japan and abroad visit the Sapporo Snow Festival, one of the country’s largest winter events. Across three sites, snow slides, snowrafting, snow and ice art by Sapporo’s citizens, and an ice sculpture show and contest are among the breathtaking attractions on offer.

Feb 1–12 Sapporo, Japan snowfes.com

FUN AND GAMES Sport About 3,000 athletes from nearly 95 nations, watched by a global audience of billions, will compete at the 2018 Winter Olympics in PyeongChang, South Korea.

The Jeongseon region will stage Alpine speed events while all ice sports will be held in the coastal city of Gangneung.

Feb 9–25 PyeongChang, Republic of Korea olympic. org/pyeongchang-2018

Romantic getaway – Hotel Haikko Manor & Spa Wellness Holiday, 2 nights

Manor House Holiday

Fresh Bistro Buffet and luxurious Spa services relax your mind and body.

Celebrate your important day with a delicious dinner in the lovely and courteous atmosphere of the historic Manor House.

Wellness Holiday package incl.

• Two nights’ accommodation • One daily soup, salad buffet and coffee in Spa Bistro • Breakfast buffet at the Manor House • Access to the spa and gym

• One night accommondation • Manor House festive dinner (three courses) • Special breakfast at the Manor House • Access to the spa and gym

• Complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the hotel • Free parking Spa Hotel Standard from 141 €/person Spa Hotel Deluxe from 241 €/person

• Complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the hotel • Free parking Manor Hotel Classic 171 €/person Manor Hotel Imperial 211 €/person Manor Hotel Suite 261 €/person

These packages are based upon two people sharing the room.

Holiday Packages are valid until 31.12.2018.

Haikko Spa offers also Wellness & Beauty treatments and the unique experience: Super Cold -120 °C Hotel Haikko Manor & Spa · Haikkoontie 114 · 06400 Porvoo · Finland · www.haikko.fi/en

Wise craft

Local talents to watch

TEXT MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

PETTERI MÄNTYSAARI

Five of the dozen beanie grandmas. From left: Rahkis, Salli, Soili, Anneli, and Terttu.

Beanie power IN A WORLD of mass-produced goods, handmade items are a rarity. Finnish family business Myssyfarmi (Beanie Farm) has taken this concept to the extreme: When you buy one of their woolly hats, you always know who made it and where the material came from.

That’s because Myssyfarmi hats are knitted by a group of retired Finnish grandmothers who personally sign each beanie. The dozen grandmas are all from or near the rural Finnish town of Pöytyä, where the owners, Janne and Anna Rauhansuu, live on an organic farm with their four children.

Though the “beanie grandmas” are active seniors, knitting has become a core part of their identity, says Anna, the designer of Myssyfarmi’s hats. The grandmas meet once a month to chat, drink coffee, and knit new hats – about 40 per month per knitter.

18

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

“The hats are made here in Finland from Finnsheep wool, which is as soft as Merino wool.

They also come with a lifetime warranty,” says Anna.

If your beanie ever unravels, you can send it back to be repaired.

Myssyfarmi was established in 2009, but its ­origins date back to 2006 when Janne, a former professional windsurfing champion, was living in Switzerland.

After falling in love with a friend’s handmade beanie, he taught himself to knit, and the Davos skiing ­community loved his beanies. The first one he made is still on ­display in the Teufi village mountain café.

Today Myssyfarmi’s hats are sold in 13 countries, including Germany, Switzerland, Korea, and Japan.

The beanies are also sold in the Finnair Shop and onboard certain Lapland flights. 

Up close

Off the beaten path

A modern interpretation of the original water tower defines the development.

SHANGHA I’S URBAN NIP AND TUCK W

hen looking at the skyscrapers of Shanghai’s Pudong district, it’s easy to imagine a city of tomorrow. What it has not been so easy to envision is yesterday, thus leaving many an old building precariously dodging the wrecking ball.

But there are occasional rays of hope for Shanghai’s elders. Jianguo West Road lies in the heart of the Former French Concession, often referred to as the Cultural Preservation Zone. The Jian Ye Li Estate located here dates back to China’s colonial era and thanks to an ambitious restoration now has a secure future.

Opened in September 2017, the development sees an area of old shikumen buildings brought up

20

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

MARK ANDREWS

JOHN PORTMAN & ASSOCIATES

TEXT MARK ANDREWS

to 21st-century standards, including a 55-villa hotel along with 40 serviced townhouses and street-front retail space. These stone warehouse gate buildings were last century’s answer to high density housing for the masses in narrow laned communities. Once the majority of Shanghai’s housing stock, shikumen are now disappearing fast.

Originally built by French company Foncière et Immobiliere de Chine, Jian Ye Li dates back to the ’30s and blends French flair with Chinese elements.

An influence continued by the Capella Shanghai Hotel within the interior space: French accented furniture complements Chinese-inspired artwork.

Such sensitive design work helped the Capella Hotels turn the renovated and rebuilt structures into a boutique hotel while harmonising and highlighting the original architectural features.

“We still retain the romanticism of the historical past, but respect that we are very much in China. It’s a blend of east meets west,” says general manager, Dorian Rommel of Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li. Most of the shikumen-style houses, such as famed Xintiandi, are repurposed. However, the restoration work in and around Jian Ye Li preserves this architectural legacy – restoring the buildings as accommodation in line with the district’s original intention. 

www.kia.fi @kiamotorsfinland

Täysin uusi Kia Stonic

Niille jotka eivät saa elämästä tarpeekseen.

Mallisto alk. 17.990 € Niille jotka haluavat erottua.

Elämä on täynnä mahdollisuuksia. Sitä varten on Kia Stonic, valmiina rikkomaan rutiineja ja viemään sinut kohti seuraavaa päämäärää. Valitse väripari, joka viimeistelee tyylisi.

Kompakti crossover erottuu joukosta, ja sen ratissa olet aina tapahtumien keskipisteessä.

Ja tietenkin se on Kia: kaikilla mausteilla ja seitsemän vuoden takuulla.

Käyttöetu alk. 305 €/kk, vapaa autoetu alk. 455 €/kk

Kia Stonic -mallisto alk. autoveroton hinta 14.944,93 € + arvioitu autovero 3.045,07 € + tk 600 € = kokonaishinta 18.590 €. Vapaa autoetu alk. 455 €/kk, käyttöetu alk. 305 €/kk. EU-yhd. kulutus 4,2–5,2 l/100 km, CO2-päästöt 109–118 g/km. Kia-huolenpitosopimus alk. 28 €/kk (sopimusaika 36 kk, 10 tkm/vuosi). Kia-takuu 7 vuotta tai 150 000 km, kolme ensimmäistä vuotta ilman kilometrirajaa. Kia 24h tiepalvelu vuodeksi veloituksetta. Kuvan auto erikoisvarustein.

Culture swap Destination inspiration

COMPILED BY LAURA IISALO

Norwegian comfort With classic design, natural materials, and a functional approach, Norwegians know how to make the most of the winter season.

FINNAIR FLIES TO Oslo

(OSL) four times a day.

Starting May 2018, Finnair opens routes to Bergen and Tromsø in cooperation with partner airline Wideroe.

6.

5.

7.

3.

4.

1.

2.

1 — WINTER WARMER The Setesdal blanket by Røros Tweed for Oleana is locally made from soft Norwegian wool. €355 2 — NOURISHING ACT Moisturising Face Cream by Sprekenhus promises to keep winter skin soft and supple. €46 3 — QUIET LIFE Silence: In the Age of Noise by Norwegian explorer Erling Kagge longs for the lost art of quietness. €11 4 — COOL CERAMICS Nature-inspired plates by Anette Krogstad for Norway Designs are handmade in Oslo. €169 5 — EASY HOLDALL The Kaos weekender bag is big enough for a mini-break yet fits in the cabin. €196 6 — TIMELESS TOUCH Kashmina’s turtleneck cashmere sweater for men defines everyday luxury. €264 7 — NORDIC SPIRIT Hellstrøm Aquavit is an old classic with a bright new twist. €43

22

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Kirkwall Portree Tobermory Greenock Belfast Dublin

Lontoo/ Tilbury

Amsterdam

St. Mary´s

Honfleur St. Peter Port

Kirkwall Portree Tobermory

Dublin

Lontoo/ Tilbury

St. Mary´s

Honfleur St. Peter Port

Kirkwall Portree

Invergordon Tobermory

Belfast Dublin

Lontoo/ Tilbury

Ringaskiddy St. Mary´s

Honfleur St. Peter Port

Amsterdam

Nicolas Prevot and Suska Karjalainen are the heart and soul of The Happy Hamlet.

24

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Passion project

Happy Hamlet

Finding the happy place How a Finnish-French couple came to start a most unusual retreat in southern France.

FINNAIR FLIES TO Paris

(CDG) five times a day from where you can take a connecting flight or train to Toulouse.

TEXT AMANDA SOILA PHOTOS HELI SORJONEN & AMANDA SOILA

T

heir story does not have a happy beginning. Nearly three years ago, Suska Karjalainen and Nicolas Prevot were a true long-distance couple – she working in marketing in New York and he in the travel business in the African country of Djibouti, when they got some bad news.

Prevot’s ex-wife, the mother of his teenage daughter, had passed away in France. He and Karjalainen had only one choice.

So, the couple packed up their lives and relocated to France, but it took a moment to figure out what to do. Karjalainen, who is halfFinnish and half-Czech, was only just learning to speak French while Prevot had not been back to his home country in more than 25 years.

“We had started a small guest house in Djibouti and we loved the process of renovating the place and running the business together,” says Karjalainen. “The trouble is that the French countryside is full of charming bed-andbreakfasts so that just wasn’t a viable option for us. We needed something more substantial.”

It was the couple’s friends who proved the best inspiration.

“We realised that we know so many people who have incredible talents,” says Karjalainen.

“What if there was a place where they could pass on their expertise to others in an inspiring surrounding? Painting, cooking, writing?”

The idea of a different kind of retreat started to take shape.

All the rooms boast a unique design.

> JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

25

PILATES MEETS BUSINESSCOACHING

Pilates and yoga are just some of the retreats that Happy Hamlet offers.

Evening at Happy Hamlet is the time for relaxed dinner on the veranda.

Two years later, a centuries-old farm in the southern French countryside is basking in evening sunshine as the residents and guests gather on the veranda for dinner. Smoked fish, local vegetables, and wine from the neighbouring vineyard form the delicious core of the meal and everybody tucks in with gusto. The first pilates retreat of the summer has started and the participants have just finished their evening workout by the pool.

While wellness is at the nucleus of The Happy Hamlet’s philosophy, not all the retreats cater to physical wellbeing.

Alongside pilates and yoga retreats there is a reading group, a wine-tasting week, and courses on business-coaching and entrepreneurship, all lead by visiting experts.

“It would have been easier to focus on just yoga or pilates, but it’s more interesting to keep the offering diverse and slightly unexpected,” says Karjalainen. Being good to yourself, loving what you do, and being kind to everybody around are the cornerstones of Happy Hamlet.

The name does not, as many assume, have a Shakespeare connection but rather refers to a small settlement of people, a happy village. The couple want to preserve the home-like feeling of the place. The retreats are all-inclusive and guests can help themselves to coffee, snacks, or a glass of wine whenever they feel like it. Schedules are flexible and the hosts and their friends join in for meals and a chat about the local history or future plans for the farm. >

THE HAPPY HAMLET What An alternative kind of retreat founded in 2016.

Where Located in southern France, 1 hour north of the Toulouse Blagnac Airport.

For whom Guests who want to create a healthy lifestyle both physically and mentally and who enjoy the peace and quiet of the French countryside.

Mantra “Be good to yourself. Do what you love and love what you do.”

26

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Suska Karjalainen wants guests to experience the charm of the local villages.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

27

COUNTRYSIDE CHARM

The southern French countryside boasts serene beauty.

Finding the perfect place for their new home and business wasn’t easy. It took three months, 25,000 kilometres, and 86 viewings to find the perfect spot.

“We wanted somewhere rural but not too excluded, close to interesting villages and a property with a certain charm,” says Karjalainen.

They also had a deadline since Prevot’s daughter could not move in with them before they had a permanent residence. The right dwelling was found in southern France, an hour’s drive from the Toulouse Blagnac Airport and amidst rolling hills of sunflower fields.

Today, The Happy Hamlet’s philosophy is intertwined with the surrounding countryside and its many small businesses. The retreat guests have a chance to visit local vineyards, a lavender farm, a soap maker, and attend village feasts. Every place welcomes guests like old friends.

The estate itself has gone through a thorough renovation. But while the farm today is neat and cosy, the place still projects a cottage-like feel of endless tasks.

“We like it that way,” says Karjalainen. “It’s part of our identity that things aren’t too finished. There’s always something waiting to be done around the corner. 

Inside track

India

Goa bites The pint-sized Indian state punches above its weight when it comes to cuisine. And there’s no better place than capital Panjim to tickle your taste buds.

TEXT AND PHOTOS DANIEL ALLEN

A TASTE OF THE PAST  With its marble topped tables and antique decor, The Verandah, which overlooks the pastel-hued Portuguese architecture of Panjin’s Fontainhas neighbourhood, has an Old World charm so tangible you can almost touch it.

Goan cuisine is the order of the day here – drink in the colonial atmosphere over a feni (cashew spirit) cocktail before tucking in to the mackerel recheado (deep fried mackerel marinated in a red paste of chilies, spices, ginger, garlic, and vinegar).

SWEET AND SPICY  Dine with a view at Café Azul, one of the restaurants of the Cidade de Goa Hotel in Panjim’s swanky Dona Paula neighbourhood. Look out over Vainguinim Beach and the tranquil waters of the Arabian Sea as you chow down on Goan specialities such as pork vindaloo (pork marinated in vinegar, ginger paste, and a host of aromatic spices) and bebinca, a sweet, high-calorie Goan dessert made from coconut milk, eggs, butter, and jaggery.

FIVE STAR FOOD  There aren’t many better places to stay in and around Panjim than the upmarket Taj Fort Aguada, situated at one end of the sweeping sandy crescent of CandolimCalangute-Baga beach.

The hotel’s elegant Morisco restaurant, overlooking the sand and sea, offers fresh seafood and a traditional Goan menu. The fragrant red snapper curry and crab xec xec (Goan crab curry) are both worth the short journey out from Panjim alone.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

>

29

GOA’S TOP TASTES 1. Prawn balchao 2. Chicken cafreal 3. Pork vindaloo 4. Mackerel recheado 5. Xacuti (a fiery coconut curry)

The market sells everything from cashew nuts and coconuts to dried chilies and Bombay duck.

MARKET MELEE  Before sampling the cuisine, it’s worth checking out the array of ingredients.

Situated next to the sluggish waters of the Mandovi River, the Panjim market, which kicks off just after 7 am every day, is a thriving hub of commerce, selling everything from cashew nuts and coconuts to dried chilies and Bombay duck.

ARRESTINGLY GOOD CUISINE  One of Goa’s signature dishes – chicken cafreal (chicken marinated with a paste of cinnamon, pepper, green chili, mace, and cloves) – was apparently first served up at O’Coqueiro, which has long garnered rave reviews for its authentic Goan cuisine. Notorious French criminal Charles Sobhraj was captured here (rather cruelly) mid-meal in 1986 while on the run from authorities.

SEAFOOD SMORGASBORD  A relatively new addition to Panjim’s culinary scene, Fisherman’s Wharf is a mecca for seafood lovers.

Housed in a beautifully restored colonial-era house, the restaurant’s signature dishes include prawn balchao (spicy pickled prawns) and rawa fried kingfish (pan fried kingfish with a semolina crust). Those who prefer their food on the mild side can ask the chef to dial down the heat. 

FINNAIR FLIES TO

Goa (GOI) twice a week.

30

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Explore

Think beyond the box

Read the whole story on page 42.

The call of the Arctic A growing number of adventurous souls feel the pull of the extreme cold.

Smart stuff

COMPILED BY MARK FLETCHER

Discoveries for a clever life

TESPACK JUSSI HELTTUNEN

SAMI TUORINIEMI

BEAUTY AND THE BIT

SCIENCE TO THE MASSES The University of Helsinki has opened a science-based events space, aptly named Think Corner, that aims to make academic research more accessible to the public. Located in downtown Helsinki, visitors can participate in a wide range of events or just relax in one of the lounge areas. “We offer hot topics in inspiring surroundings for those who like to know what’s what,” says programme manager Antti Asumaa.

SOLAR POWER ON-THE-GO Solar panels have come a long way, especially in the energy conversion to size ratio. Tespack, a Finnish wearable tech company, has developed high-tech solar panels small enough to fit on a backpack and powerful enough to charge a laptop and other devices.

PIONEERING SMART ROAD T

he Finnish Transport Agency has recently opened the Aurora Intelligent Road in Kolari, north-west Finland. The ten-kilometre smart road is designed to put new automated transport technologies through their paces, not only with standard testing procedures but with the added challenge of wintery driving conditions, making Aurora the first smart road of its kind in the world.

32

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

URBAN DESIGN AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE As an effort to adapt to increasing rainfall and fluctuation in temperatures, Copenhagen is set to witness an innovative climate adaptation venture that will transform the city’s Nørrebro district. The Soul of Nørrebro project, to be completed in 2022, has been designed to divert floodwater via a series of sunken basins and establish new ecosystems in the area.

Sukella menneen maailman lumoon!

3 nroa VAIN

19e

ETUSI

+ näköislehti

44 %

9/2017

Hinta 12,50 €

ANTI

ANTIIKKI & DESIGN 163 9/2017

• TAIDE • ANTIIKKI • DESIGN • VINTAGE KERÄILY • SISUSTUS

IKKI & DESI GN 164 10/20

PERINNEMAALIT KUNNIAAN!

• SI SU

ST U

Hinta 12,5

S•A N

0€

SUOukokoelma DE MEN HELSIGNMET

Suomalainen filigraanilasi Vierailulla

Rakkaudella vaalittu talo Raumalla

5

SUO

TI IK

KI • D

ES IG

N• V IN

V

11

DESI

GNIN

MES

SU

HELM

LÄÄKÄRI SAULI SIEKKINEN LÖYT aika kiehtoi.” ”Nuutajärven kartanon pysähtynyt ÖÄ!

ET

AUTO

TALO

VINT AGEK AME RAT

MUO ”Las TOIL ikuu IJA H tioni AR on Oi RI KO KERÄ va To SKIN ”Rak ILIJÄ ikan EN asta TARU lahja” n 19 50-lu JÄRVIK vun laukALLIO kuja .”

TA G

E • TA

Lapsiierailulla perh e klasssisustaa ikoil la

KALHAMA MUSEONJOHTAJA PILVI i jugendtuoli.” ”Aarteeni on itse verhoileman MEN

KUSTAVILAISUUS PERINNEMAALIT FILIGRAANILASI

Tee tilaus netissä: fokusmediatilaus.fi/tutustu-antiikkiin tai soita asiakaspalveluumme 020 7354 130

Ä IL Y

017

Huip p

Design

vinkkiä HOPEAN HOITOON

K ER

10/2

17

Teemana kunnostus

Vin

Mik tage ä arv v o kamanhalla erall a?

ID E

Escape Iceland

Hrjúft*

*The Icelandic word for rough (adjective) refers to uneven or irregular surfaces. It is also present in some of the country’s most surreal and beautiful scenery.

PHOTOS ÞÓRGUNNUR ÞÓRSDÓTTIR

34

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

HROSSATUNGUR Near the Laki volcano in

MORSÁRDALUR On the way to Kristínartindar

southern Iceland sits a peculiar-shaped hut perched in the middle of a horse’s grazing area.

Empty most of the year, the hut comes to life during the summer when scores of horseback riders on Icelandic horses arrive – filling the place with song, story, and laughter.

mountain in southern Iceland, visitors are greeted by magnificent views over Morsárdalur valley, along with its glacier, lagoon, and waterfalls. Hikers can walk the valley without bumping into another person and experience the feeling of being completely alone within the vast landscape.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

> 35

HÓLAR In south-east

Iceland, tall concrete houses constructed on mounds and hills are common scenery against the backdrop of glaciers and the North Atlantic Ocean.

Although most of the houses have been abandoned, this farmhouse still stands, and the same family has occupied it for generations.

FJALLSÁRJÖKULL

The rugged beauty of Fjallsárjökull, a glacier from the largest ice cap in Europe, is part of Vatnajökull National Park in the south-east. The famous volcano Öræfajökull looms above while below is an ice lagoon where one can see icebergs float by.

36

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

REYKJANESVITI

In the geothermal smoking fields of the Reykjanes Peninsula, home to the Blue Lagoon and Keflavík International Airport, one can encounter Iceland’s oldest lighthouse, Reykjanesviti. The lighthouses here in the south-west of the island are a cherished part of the local community.

SLÉTTALEITI

Amidst the jagged valleys of southeastern Iceland stands Sléttaleiti, a farm turned writers’ retreat. Owned by the Icelandic Writers Union, novelists and poets stay for a week at a time to focus on a current project or seek inspiration in the shadow of the towering mountains.

>

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

37

FJAÐRÁRGLJÚFUR Shaped like a feather when viewed

from above, Fjaðrárgljúfur is a magnificent canyon close to Kirkjubæjarklaustur in southern Iceland. Hollowed out over millions of years by the Fjaðrá River, the canyon is noted for its steep walls. A trek inside the canyon is a magical experience for avid hikers. Þórgunnur Þórsdóttir is a Reykjavík-based photographer who likes magic realism, nature, and her printer.

FINNAIR FLIES TO

Reykjavík (KEF) three times a week.

38

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Conversation Guest writer Sally Kohn

The spaces in between the moments T

he problem was I didn’t want to be We also went snowshoeing through the cold. When I was invited to visit the forest. At one point, we stopped to eat sau­Pyhätunturi ski resort in Lapland, that was sages that we roasted over a fire in a kota my first thought. I don’t like being cold as (Lappish hut) and added Turun sinappi doesn’t my partner, who would join me on ­mustard. I bought three tubes to bring home the trip along with our nine-year-old daughas a souvenir. ter and my brother-in-law Jacob.

Each night we tried to spot the ­Northern But I’ve wanted to see the Northern Lights, but to no avail. On our last night, Lights since forever when I first saw them a guide said he could take us to see the in a movie. Pyhä seemed to be the perfect Northern Lights. There were no promises, opportunity – the lower part of Finnish Lapof course. But if the lights were visible, he land being far north enough to optiknew where to take us. mise my chances, yet still reachAround 2:00 am I thought I able in a quick flight from saw green lights on the hori­Helsinki. But going in the zon. Jacob m ­ anaged to get dead of winter seemed like some pictures. Yes, the The lights it might kill us, so we went ­pictures are haunting and were there, we in April. ­ethereal, but also kind of I’d looked at all sorts sad. Turns out that on that just couldn’t of charts online and they night, the sun never actuseemed to suggest early ally set enough for us to see them.

April was a perfectly fine see the aurora borealis. The time to see the Northern Lights lights were there, technically, in Lapland, and we all know the we just couldn’t see them. Also, internet is never wrong. Thanks to I was freezing. Even then it felt like a ­Canada Goose, Kodiak, Arc’teryx, North ­metaphor. A frustrating metaphor.

Face, Fjällräven, and Polarn O. Pyret, we We spent the next few days in Rovaniemi. were a veritable United Nations of warm We saw Santa, visited the f­orestry museum, ­layers. So, I thought I’d get to see the and stayed in the Arctic Treehouse Hotel. We ­Northern Lights and not be cold. Turns out I wouldn’t have done any of this without the was wrong on both fronts. But the surprise Northern Lights. They were the excuse we discovery was a vacation that delighted with needed for what ended up being an extraorfun adventures and wonderment. dinary trip with or without the lights. And We went dogsledding. Or more accurately, also a very tangible reminder that the jourmy daughter sat on a tiny wooden sled as I ney matters more than the destination. I stood on its two thin metal sled rails holding can always go back. Especially because my on for dear life as a pack of dogs pulled our dog sledding skills need practice. And now I sled at a breath-taking pace. It was the best know that heated gloves are a thing.  thing ever.

Sally Kohn is a CNN political commentator and the author of the forthcoming book The Opposite Of Hate (April 2018).

You can find her at sallykohn.com

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

39

40

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Think again

Flipping the perspective

Bedding with attitude We meet the man who turned duvet covers into a message of tolerance.

TEXT AND PHOTO LAURA IISALO

IN 2014, the Finnish textile industry saw something unprecedented. The Tom of Finland collection by Finlayson rolled out to shops with black-and-white bedroom textiles inspired by the internationally celebrated works of iconic gay artist Touko Laaksonen. The reactions varied from delight to fury, but one thing was clear: Hardly anybody was left cold.

“People said that our customers would abandon us if we started making homoerotic bedding. I on the other hand saw it as an act of tolerance,” says Jukka Kurttila, a former advertising executive and now the managing director of Finlayson. Previously known as a very traditional textile company, Finlayson has reinvented itself in the past three years.

Kurttila and his business partners, Petri Pesonen and Risto Voutilainen, bought Finlayson in 2014 when it was an unprofitable brand that had been for sale for 14 years. “After having worked in advertising for 25 years I felt like I had come to the end of that path. I no longer felt inspired. It occurred to me that I could buy and save this old ­Finnish design treasure before it completely ­disappeared,” Kurttila explains.

Soon after the Tom of Finland campaign, Finlayson donated 5,000 sets of bed linen to Syrian refugees – and death threats followed. At that point K ­ urttila admits he grew frightened. “I have

always believed that marketing isn’t just saying but doing things, but I really had to justify to myself why we were doing what we were doing. People were angry and told us that we were supposed to just make bed linen and not do the things we were doing.”

Kurttila quotes the legendary American business magnate Henry Ford who once said that a business that makes nothing but money is a poor business.

“The climate of opinion is the same now as it was back in the 19th century. This is an era of responsibility, yet the t­extile business is still an insolent industry.

We had to start doing things differently because the world is rotten and we have an opportunity to make a difference.”

Several bold campaigns later, Finlayson’s turnover has doubled. With 170 employees on its payroll, the company makes an annual profit of over one million euros. To Kurttila this proves that the public mood has changed and people have started to accept that his company is one with opinions.

“The same ­people who used to think that our actions are just a publicity stunt now appreciate what we do. I strongly believe that design must make people’s lives better. And if design companies don’t speak out loud about the injustice that is going on around us, then who will?” 

JUKKA KURTTILA, 53

What I do Managing Director, Finlayson What I think “If you do a lot, a lot happens.

If you do nothing, nothing happens.”

What I have learned “I know it’s not worth being scared if I can answer ‘yes’ to two things: does this fall in line with my values and am I on the good side.”

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

41

Field trip

A gentoo penguin on the Antarctic Peninsula.

42

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

The urge to go polar drives growing numbers to the ends of the Earth.

TEXT AND PHOTOS DANIEL ALLEN

Cold rush

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

43

These experiences give a real sense of perspective on life and the awe-inspiring beauty of nature.

W

ith the jagged, mist-wrapped coast of Spitsbergen low on the horizon, the Polar Pioneer reaches the edge of the pack ice. The former research ship trembles as its reinforced bow strikes a massive ice sheet, shattered plates of frozen water tipping skyward to reveal underbellies corroded by salt. Here in Arctic Norway, less than 1,200 kilometres from the North Pole, the ocean is a jigsaw of pancake-flat floes, soupy brash, and dark, vein-like leads.

An hour into this dramatic assault, the Polar Pioneer’s Russian captain brings his ship to a stop.

A few hundred metres off the port bow, a creamy shape lumbers across the floe.

The polar bear circles the ship and approaches deliberately from downwind, the sandpaper-like pads on its giant feet gripping the surface slush.

There is no stealth here, only curiosity.

A few metres from the Polar Pioneer’s ruststreaked side, the bear raises its long, aquiline nose, sampling an array of foreign scents, surveying the passengers gathered on the foredeck.

“For polar travellers, an encounter with a bear is one of the ultimate experiences,” says Howard Whelan, an Arctic veteran and expedition leader for Aurora Expeditions aboard the Polar Pioneer.

“There’s probably no greater reminder that in these frozen realms, man is still largely at the mercy of nature.”

44

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

CALL OF THE WILD Ever since I was a small boy, hooked on the adventures of explorers Scott, Amundsen, and Shackleton, the polar regions have held a magnetic appeal.

Working on a farm on the sub-Antarctic Falkand Islands at the age of 17, colonies of elephant seals and rookeries of magellanic penguins were fine compensation for hours spent shovelling sheep dung.

Giant bergs in the Ilulissat Icefjord in western Greenland

Two decades on and I’ve been lucky enough to gaze in awe at many of the world’s most stunning polar environments. Vast tabular bergs in Greenland’s Ilulissat Icefjord, leopard seals on the Antarctic Peninsula, erupting geysers and pods of killer whales in Iceland. These are experiences that give a real sense of perspective on life and the intricate, awe-inspiring beauty of nature.

It’s little wonder that places such as the A ­ rctic

and Antarctic are today attracting numbers of intrepid travellers, drawn to some of the Earth’s most spectacular scenery and iconic wildlife, and the thrill of navigating author Jack London’s ­“savage, frozen-hearted wild.” Once the exclusive preserve of explorers, whalers, and nomadic huntergatherers, these final frontiers are now within easy (if expensive) reach.

“Technology is making more and more of the

>

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

45

“In the face of rising global temperature, many polar environments are now under severe pressure.”

Kayaking in the Antarctic

planet accessible, but the polar regions are still places where you can get lost in your own mind and find inner peace,” says Johan Skullman, a ­former major in the Swedish army and now a freelance consultant working for Swedish outdoor equipment manufacturer Fjällräven.

BALANCING ACT Polar travel has evolved dramatically since my time on the Falklands. Expedition-style cruises – involving small to medium-sized ships, inflatable boat

46

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

landings, and education programmes – are increasingly popular, and complemented by larger cruise ­liners and land-based tourism. Adventure junkies can choose from an ever wider range of pursuits, from kayaking, dog sledding, and overnight camping to scuba diving, cross-country skiing, and mountain climbing.

“We all have a responsibility to make sure that the environmental impact of such activities is minimised,” says Daniel Skjeldam, CEO of Norwegian Arctic and Antarctic cruise operator Hurtigruten.

“When you weigh things up, sustainable tourism in the fragile polar regions, which often supports protected areas, is a far better alternative than mining and drilling,” he says.

Today, nothing is challenging polar fragility more than climate challenge.

“In the face of rising global temperature, many polar environments are now under severe pressure,” says Aurora Expeditions’ Whelan. “Burgeoning tourism to these areas can play a role in the mitigation of such pressure, but only if it’s handled in the right way.”

ABOVE AND BEYOND TO SWEDEN Under a vast canopy of stars and the sporadic, shimmering glow of the aurora borealis, a dying fire sends flurries of sparks into the frigid air. Beside the birch-ringed expanse of Lake Ala Sevujärvi, my smoke-like breath coats the roof of the survival tent with a frosty skin. At -25˚Celsius, the tail end of a northern Swedish winter challenges man and equipment with its icy, insidious grip.

While I’m shivering the night away in a tent, there are people a few hundred metres away who don’t even have the luxury of a nylon roof. These hardy souls are taking part in the annual Fjällräven Polar, one of the world’s more extreme four-day journeys. Having crossed nearly 300 kilometres of snowbound Scandinavian wilderness already, sleeping under the stars is one of their final challenges.

At dawn the next day, as Finnish student Susanna Forsell melts ice on a primus stove, she tells me why she was desperate to put herself through such an extreme experience.

“You know, most of us in the developed world have pretty easy lives,” she says. “We turn on the tap, and there’s water. We’re cold, so we turn on the heating. I wanted to take part in an experience that took me way beyond my comfort zone.” >

Dog sledding with Inuit in western Greenland

Participants in the Fjällräven Polar approach the finishing line.

48

BLUE WINGS

FINNAIR FLIES TO Oslo

(OSL) four times a day and to Stockholm (STO) 14 times a day.

JANUARY 2018

For many people an encounter with a polar bear is the ultimate Arctic experience.

“You learn to put the dogs first.

Without a team of fit and happy dogs, a trip like this would be impossible.”

CANINE CAMARADERIE The Fjällräven Polar was initially a dog sled race competition that began in 1997 and took place each year until 2006. In 2012 it was resurrected in a new form; no longer a race, it still hugged the same course, taking teams along ancient trade routes that were once followed by indigenous Sámi and their herds of reindeer.

“The idea of the current Fjällräven Polar is to show that anyone can take part in an outdoor

adventure if they have the right gear, ability, and knowledge,” explains Skullman, who has trained participants for the last six years.

One thing that has remained constant in the Fjällräven Polar is the presence of dogs. Each participant carries everything they need to survive – food, shelter, and equipment – on a sled, pulled by a team of Alaskan huskies.

I wander over to where Giang Hoang Le, a Vietnamese participant from Ho Chi Minh City, is feeding one of his sled dogs with a hunk of frozen meat.

For Le, who had never even seen snow before, the entire trip has been a learning curve of precipitous proportions.

“You need to take the training in fast,” he says with a smile. “You learn what to wear and how much to drink, how to calculate wind chill, and how to look for signs of hypothermia and frostbite. And >

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

49

This is a journey through landscapes that are as beautiful as they are harsh.

Extreme essentials Polar clothing and equipment has been continually evolving since the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration in the early twentieth century.

Adventure gear companies like Fjällräven and Canada Goose are constantly coming up with new solutions for even safer and more enjoyable polar travel. Fjällräven’s patented G-1000 fabric, for example, which can be treated with Greenland wax, is well-suited to extreme conditions.

“One of the most important functions of clothing in cold climates is to protect the body from cooling down,” says Johan Skullman, who tests most of Fjällräven’s gear personally. “The multi-layer principle is crucial, with three to four easily adjustable layers providing protection from cold, wind, and rain. The base layer should never be cotton since it retains moisture.”

Tents from ­Fjällräven are rigorously tested to withstand Arctic conditions.

Daniel Allen is an award-winning writer and ­photographer based in London and Asia, who has journeyed numerous times to the ends of the Earth.

50

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

you learn to put the dogs first. Without a team of fit and happy dogs, a trip like this would be impossible.”

SURVIVAL SKILLS With the sun high in a cloudless sky, the 28 participants of the Fjällräven Polar are almost ready to break camp. Sleds are stowed and 150-plus howling, yapping, and barking dogs are engaged in a frenzied chorus of canine excitement. Only one training test remains – making fire.

Using a knife and flint, everyone is soon attempting to ignite miniature pyramids of branches and bark shavings.

Some catch straight away, others need more nurturing.

Skullman inspects everyone’s handiwork, offering praise and tips in equal measure. That nobody fails the challenge is testament to his expert instruction.

I’ve only experienced a fraction of what the participants of the Fjällräven Polar have gone through, but I can already understand the appeal. Teamwork, inner strength, a journey through landscapes that are as beautiful as they are harsh. These are things that all polar explorers, both amateur and professional, can really relate to. 

BEST SKI RESORT IN FINLAND 2017 www.syote.fi

Syรถte Booking Centre offers the best selection of holiday accommodation in Syรถte fell area.

Syรถte Booking Centre | Tel. +358 8 823 400 keskusvaraamo@syote.fi | Online reservations: www.syote.net

be rewarded. be one.

Earn and redeem miles and points across all member airlines.

be recognized Welcome to ONEworld, an alliance of the world’s leading airlines committed to providing the highest level of service and convenience across more than 1,000 destinations worldwide. Whenever Finnair can’t take you to your final destination, we encourage you to travel with our ONEworld partner airlines.

Enjoy an array of special privileges and rewards — which include earning and redeeming Finnair Plus points on all ONEworld airlines and, for Finnair Plus Platinum and Gold members, access to some 650 premium airport lounges.

*Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the ONEworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald level members. ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of ONEworld. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits.

oneworld member airlines

member of American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

Snapshot Lanzarote

TEXT AND PHOTOS VILLE PALONEN

Lunar Lanzarote L

anzarote, one of the seven main Canary Islands, is a favourite holiday destination for sun-starved Europeans – and for good reason. Besides offering beautiful beaches, harmonious architecture, and rugged volcanic landscapes, the main tourist hubs – Costa Teguise, Puerto del Carmen, and Playa Blanca – tick all the boxes for a relaxing holiday, offering services including seafood restaurants, deep sea fishing, and even a Wild West theme park for kids. But by far the best way to truly appreciate Lanzarote is to rent a car and hit the winding roads for a day or two of island exploration.

Road trip highlights include the remote Papagayo beaches in the south, the pockmarked hills of the La Geria wine growing area, the volcanic landscapes of Timanfaya National Park inland, and the unique architectural creations of César Manrique in the north.

PAPAGAYO BEACH Playa Papagayo must be Lanzarote’s prettiest beach: a round bay protected by steep cliffs, with turquoise water, and a small café overlooking golden sands.

The place is not exactly hidden, but so remote that you need a car to visit.

Just drive a few kilometres along a very bumpy road until you reach the south corner of the island.

54

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

TIMANFAYA NATIONAL PARK Timanfaya National Park is a breath-taking natural wonder. Even though it was almost 200 years since the last volcanic eruption, the 50-kilometre park is a vast expanse of petrified lava flows and sharp dark rocks, with only a handful of hardy bushes adding colour to the otherworldly landscape.

The surreal feeling grows stronger during a 30-minute drive in a tourist bus – an experience that feels like a cross between sitting inside a Mars rover and riding a roller coaster.

FINNAIR FLIES TO

­ anzarote (ACE) once L a week until April.

LA GERIA VINEYARDS The vineyards of La Geria are a peculiar sight, as the vines grow in “craters” dug into dark volcanic sand. This “black cloak” was formed following the Timanfaya volcanic eruptions between 1730 and 1736.

Even though the best time to visit La Geria is June and July when the vineyards are at their most verdant, the pockmarked hills are a sight to behold any time of the year.

The wineries are also open for a tasting off-season – be sure to buy a bottle or two for home. 

CÉSAR MANRIQUE Artist César Manrique (1919– 1992) is the creative mastermind behind Lanzarote’s harmonious architecture. There are no highrise hotels and practically all houses have a traditional exterior of whitewashed walls and dark lava stones.

Lanzarote’s main tourist attractions include Manrique’s more artsy creations such as Jardín de Cactus, a garden with more than 1,100 different varieties of cactus, and Jameos del Aqua, a huge concert venue built inside a cave. Another must-see is Mirador del Río, a panoramic restaurant carved inside a hillside. The bird’s-eye view over neighbouring La Graciosa Island is spectacular.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

55

NEW ROUTE TO CHARMING LISBON T H E N O R D I C WAY

FEEL THE PURE POETRY OF PORTUGAL NEXT SUMMER.

Experience the unforgettable mixture of traditional and modern in the capital of Portugal.

Listen to traditional Fado music in the streets of Alfama, hop on board an old-fashioned city tram and enjoy vivacious urban life and delicious food. Flights to Lisbon will be operated up to six times a week from June to October 2018. Book your summer flights at finnair.com

Create

Celebrate accomplishments

Read the whole story on page 58.

Fashion and Florence The capital of Tuscany sets the scene for the most exciting event in men’s fashion.

Rolf Ekroth takes a new kind of Finnish streetwear to the Pitti Uomo event in Florence.

58

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Creative corner Finnish fashion

The Finnish outfitters

FINNAIR FLIES TO

Rome (FCO) twice a day and to Milan (MXP) twice a day.

Pragmatic, anonymous, and inspired by the fashion vacuum of the ’80s, Finland is a strange new star in men’s fashion.

TEXT LISSU MOULTON PHOTOS GUILLAUME ROUJAS

W

hat’s the first place that pops into your mind when you think about fashion? Paris? Milan? Well, you might want to add Helsinki to that list.

Pitti Uomo is one of the biggest events on the global menswear calendar. A semiannual menswear trade show now in its 93rd edition, Pitti Uomo brings over 20,000 buyers, thousands of designers and media from all over the world to Florence's Fortezza da Basso, a sprawling medieval fortress right outside the city centre.

Each season, the Fondazione Pitti Discovery turns its spotlight on the brightest new stars in men’s fashion, and now it’s Finland’s time to shine. Eight Finnish labels are showing at Pitti from January 9 to 12 as part of the event’s Guest Nation programme.

There are collections from Aalto

University stars Rolf Ekroth and Julia Männistö, as well as more established labels like the urban workwear brand Formal Friday, the classic shoe brand Saint Vacant, and the ultraminimalistic Nomen Nescio. There are also collaborations between big-name Finnish labels and up-and-coming local designers. Turo is collaborating with London-based designer Ikla Wright, and R-Collection will show a capsule collection by the internationally renowned young designer Maria Korkeila. And Heikki Salonen will be at Pitti to launch his new menswear brand Vyner Articles.

We sat down with three of the designers to see what Finnish influences they’ll be bringing with them to Italy.

>

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

59

NIINA AND TIMO LESKELÄ

Who would you like to dress?

Banksy Dream collaboration

The minimalist sculptor Richard Serra.

Who do you design for?

You, me, and anyone who likes to keep it simple.

Silent strength This is definitely not your average clothing label. Founded in 2012 by Niina and Timo Leskelä, Nomen Nescio is a brand built largely around anonymity, which is pretty much the exact opposite of what most people think when they consider fashion. As the label’s name implies, the designs are made for – and in some ways by – an unknown and unspecified person.

“Our clothes don’t shout. They have a strong silence that’s very Finnish. But that silence really puts all of the focus on the person wearing them,” says Niina Leskelä.

Every piece in every collection is black, and their design concept can be summed up in one word: minimalism.

For the Leskeläs, that aesthetic isn’t just a style choice, it’s also a natural extension of who they are as people.

“We’re both introverts and we don’t enjoy being in the spotlight. That’s also a very Finnish thing,” Timo Leskelä says.

And they mean it.

For the first three years after launching the label, the couple was like the Bansky of fashion – no one actually even knew who was designing the clothes.

60

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Originally a menswear label, Nomen Nescio’s clothes are so minimalistic that they’ve always appealed to women, too.

The Leskeläs are pleased.

“Finland is super democratic, and it was the first country in Europe to give women the vote, so it’s natural for people here to see that the same piece can work just as well for a man or a woman,” says Niina Leskelä.

As Nomen Nescio takes its anonymous, unisex, and ultra-minimalist collection to Pitti, their goal is clear. “We’re not trying to woo anyone. Not everyone gets what we’re about. But the people who do will find us.”

While they acknowledge that it’s a lot easier to get attention at Pitti with “bells and whistles,” Nomen Nescio is hoping to make a strong, silent statement even without them. >

Niina and Timo Leskelä’s ultra-minimalistic clothes are made for men and women.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

61

Rolf Ekroth went from playing professional poker to designing clothes.

62

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

ROLF EKROTH

Who would you like to dress?

Jay-Z, Chance the Rapper, Kendrick Lamar, and A$Ap Rocky. Another designer wearing my clothes would be the ultimate compliment.

Dream collaboration

A sneaker line with Adidas, Nike, Reebok, or New Balance.

Who do you design for?

I think most designers design what they’d wear.

Sisu and style Rolf Ekroth’s life changed four years ago when he enrolled in a sewing class. After years struggling with jobs in sales, social work, and even professional poker, the Helsinki-based designer finally found his calling.

After Ekroth quit poker, one of his friends suggested that he try designing clothes. Until then, the thought hadn’t even crossed his mind. Ekroth bought a sewing kit and took the train from Helsinki to the class in a gritty part of neighbouring Vantaa. “For the first few months I had no idea who the teacher even was.

All of the other students were grannies, but they all taught me to sew.” The rest, as they say, is history.

Ekroth ultimately made his way to the Aalto University School of Arts, where he quickly started making a name for himself.

In 2016, he was a finalist in the prestigious Hyères Fashion Festival in France. That led to a capsule collection for Galeries Lafayette in Paris. And now, Pitti, where he’ll show an athletics-inspired collection created for the Finnish outdoor label, Halti.

You might think all that attention would go to a young designer’s head. But hey, this is Finland.

“Kids from the ’80s in Finland were

taught to never stand out and to always be a little ashamed. My mom’s family is from north Karelia and I always joke that the only emotions you’re allowed to show there are jealousy and bitterness,” he says.

Ekroth’s aesthetic has always been inspired by sports and streetwear. The inspiration for the Halti collection comes from a Helly Hansen jacket Ekroth borrowed from his father while sailing in the Finnish archipelago as a teenager.

“I saw the same exact jacket in a Wu Tang Clan video later and that came back to me when I was designing this collection,” says Ekroth.

While Finland doesn’t exactly have a reputation as a global fashion hub, especially when it comes to menswear, Finns do often refer to themselves as the “shellsuit nation” (tuulipukukansa). So, as he heads to Florence, Ekroth is set to take that title to the next level.

>

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

63

JOHANNA LAITANEN

64

Heikki Salonen’s Vyner Articles is about ArtWorkWear for 2018.

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

HEIKKI SALONEN

Who would you like to dress?

Sadly, Tove Jansson is no longer with us, but I would love to dress her. David Lynch would be nice, too.

Dream collaboration

I’d love to do a movie where I could create a whole world – like The Matrix, Blue Velvet, or Clockwork Orange.

Who do you design for?

People in creative industries. I really want to make clothing that foster their creativity.

Cultural misinterpretation Going to Pitti to show your first ever menswear collection is a little like getting to the FIFA World Cup after making a name for yourself in tennis. Not too many designers could pull this kind of move off. Heikki Salonen is definitely one of them.

Salonen is one of Finland’s most successful designers in recent years. He has been head designer at the womenswear powerhouses Erdem and Diesel Female, and he currently holds the same position at MM6 Maison Margiela. At Pitti, Salonen will be showing his first menswear collection under the label Vyner Articles. He calls it “ArtWorkWear for 2018.”

Salonen describes himself as a designer whose job is simple: solving problems. “Fashion isn’t just for fashion

people, especially in Finland.” Maybe it’s that pragmatism that helps keep Salonen so grounded. Or maybe it’s something else.

Finland was far from a hotbed of fashion in the ’80s and early ’90s, when Salonen was a teenager. If you wanted to know what people were wearing outside of Helsinki, you basically had two choices.

“You either went to the magazine section at Stockmann’s department store or you took the ferry to Stockholm.”

Salonen did both. But the geographical and cultural disconnect between Helsinki and fashion capitals like Paris, London, and New York also had its good side.

“There was a lot of misinterpretation of what was happening in fashion based on your imagination and what you’d seen in magazines. And that really was wonderful,” says Salonen.

As he heads to Pitti, Salonen is excited to show the Vyner Articles collection, which has been described as “workwear for creative and other child-minded people.” But he’s staying grounded.

“At the end of the day, it’s clothing and that’s it. If it makes you have more fun when you’re out dancing or if it makes you feel more creative, I’ve done my job.” 

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

65

Grapevine Insider tips

TEXT NARDIA PLUMRIDGE

Florence for fashionistas

1

2

4

3 GREEN DINING Vegetarian fare has taken Florence by storm in a city renowned for its meaty dishes.

And with the opening of L’OV, the plant-based dining options just became more exciting. With a greenhouse-style dining room, gluten-free and vegan options, and a seasonal menu, L’OV offers many reasons to return.

Piazza del Carmine 4r osteriavegetariana.it

66

BLUE WINGS

Nardia Plumridge is a travel and lifestyle journalist based in Florence and the author of the website: Lost in Florence.

PERFUME EMPORIUM Perfume master Lorenzo Villoresi has been working his magic since 1990 in a secluded bottega (workshop) surrounded by exotic scents from all over the world. Famed for his oneof-a-kind bottles made to order, you can visit his perfume emporium hidden in an old palazzo in the south side district of San Niccolo.

Via de’ Bardi 12 lorenzovilloresi.it

JANUARY 2018

EMERGING DESIGN Fly, the retail space of the Fashion and Accessories and Technology School (FAST) showcases one-off creations by emerging designers and students studying at this lauded design academy. Students create couture clothing, accessories, and shoes, then sell their unique pieces from the boutique in the school entrance.

Borgo Pinti 20r fashionlovesyou.it

ARTSY DREAMS Boutique hotel and gallery Milu has 22 rooms all decorated in a ’50s retro, yet contemporary style. Original artwork lines the walls of the grand central staircase as well as displays neatly in every room. There’s an upstairs library plus a cosy terrace offering rooftop views over Florence’s most fashionable street.

Via de Tornabuoni 8 hotelmilu.com

Promotion

WORRIED ABOUT THINNING AND GREYING HAIR? How smart food capsules developed by Oxford scientists can boost your hair and self-confidence Worried about thinning hair? Does looking in the mirror sometimes sap you of self-confidence? Thinning hair can be a nightmare for both men and women. It can lead to an emotional burden with low self-confidence and an impaired quality of life.

Scientists from Oxford offer a potential solution. Their TRX2® food supplement is one of Europe’s leading hair support regimens and has been sold in over 100 countries worldwide. TRX2 is based on natural compounds and compared to drug-based alternatives has no side effects.

Hair support regimens often promise a lot without delivering, but TRX2 is backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly reviewed. According to the company’s study TRX2 works for 87% of men and women experiencing early stages of hair thinning. The results can be impressive – the study shows that average hair thickness increases 22.5% after nine months and 38.7% after 18 months.

TRX2 tackles the problem on a molecular level. As a person experiences hair loss

the function of potassium channels in their hair follicles diminishes, resulting in shrinking follicles and thinning hair.

“Your hair becomes much heavier and thicker. Your confidence grows. You maintain your healthy hair.”

Dr. Thomas Whitfield, DPhil (Biochemistry); Oxford Scientist and founder of Oxford Biolabs

These potassium channels are small protein structures that control the transport of nutrients across the hair follicle’s cell membranes, and are essential for retaining the follicle’s full biological activity and function. TRX2 should be taken as early as possible in order to mitigate the risks of thinning hair from the onset.

For those experiencing premature greying, greying in general, or those who want to prevent greying before it starts, the company offers Melaniq®, a scientifically formulated food supplement supporting normal hair pigmentation.

Oxford Biolabs Ltd, The Oxford Science Park, Oxford, UK www.oxfordbiolabs.com Email support@oxfordbiolabs.com or call +44 800 808 5251 to book a FREE consultation with the company’s Hair Expert team.

TRX2 and Melaniq are suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in brown glass bottles and cost around €60 and €51, respectively. The manufacturer offers a limited money-back guarantee if ordered via Oxford Biolabs’s official website www.oxfordbiolabs.com and ships worldwide.

EXCLUSIVE DEAL FOR FINNAIR PASSENGERS Order via www.oxfordbiolabs.com and use the coupon code FINN to receive 5% discount This reader offer expires on 31st January 2018

TEXT WIF STENGER

HELSINKI’S VINYL ROMANCE

MAARIT KYTÖHARJU

From cosy shops in the “Five Corners” neighbourhood to indie labels and DJs, Helsinki is rediscovering the warm sound of vinyl.

Eero Löyttyjärvi of We Jazz DJs on the wheels of steel

68

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Sidesteps Helsinki

H

HENRI HÄMÄLÄINEN

elsinki is emerging as a hotbed of musical cool – including a vibrant vinyl scene. New labels and shops are popping up in the hip Kallio and Punavuori neighbourhoods, while clubs and festivals are spotlighting DJs. “I think Helsinki has a better profile of specialised stores than Stockholm,” says Anna Cadia, a former record store manager who DJs at Radio Helsinki and various clubs.

Tommi Kyyrä of the music industry association IFPI Finland notes that its members’ vinyl sales have multiplied more than twelve-fold in the past decade – and that doesn’t include private imports or used records.

“Virtually all major releases now come out on vinyl,” he says. “That wasn’t true five years ago. It was still more of a curiosity. A lot of people also stream; these complement

each other. They may find new artists on Spotify and then buy physical LPs.” Kyyrä adds, “LPs are part of the downshifting trend. They require a bit more effort and concentration. You can sit and enjoy the artwork and lyrics, which have otherwise almost disappeared.”

Vinyl fans value the tangible and timehonoured. Besides brick-and-mortar record stores, that includes vintage turntables. Young people who have never bought a CD are now dusting off their parents’ old turntables to hear vinyl-only releases by local bands. Older listeners may be motivated by nostalgia or even investment, with prices steadily rising for ’60s jazz, ’70s progressive rock, or underground punk.

>

Browsing local releases at Flow Festival’s Vinyl Market

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

69

The Nordic Concept turntable in Finnish birch

DONALD NORTH

TIMMION RECORDS

LABELLED WITH LOVE  When it comes to local

vinyl-oriented labels, DJ Anna Cadia recommends Timmion for vintagesounding soul and funk from artists such as Sharon Jones and Nicole Willis, as well as Sähkö, with acts ranging from electronic explorers Jimi Tenor and Mika Vainio to punk pioneer Martin Rev, plus reissues from Jukka Tolonen and Olli Ahvenlahti. Meanwhile Royal Mint Records presses limited-editions vinyl releases by artists from rappers Paleface and Baba Brinkman to the Ricky-Tick Big Band.

TURN, TURN, TURN  Retro-style portable

turntables complete with USB ports often appear in interior design articles – though purists dismiss them as flimsy and potentially harmful to records.

A better bet, and equally stylish, is the Nordic Concept Reference turntable made of Finnish birch, or a reconditioned vintage turntable from Classic Audio (Iso Roobertinkatu 35) or Kallion Retro (Neljäs linja 22). Both also offer a selection of hi-fi accessories and used LPs – and friendly expertise.

Nicole Willis was featured on Barack Obama’s Spotify playlist.

SHOP-CRAWLING

MAARIT KYTÖHARJU

The late Emu Laitinen at Digelius

70

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

 Vinyl fans share their crate-

digging finds on Discogs, VinylHub, Instagram, and Twitter accounts such as @vinylhel. The VinylHel (vinylhel.tumblr.com) team, which describes the city as “a paradise for the vinyl lover” offers guided tours of some of its 20-odd vinyl shops. Most are within easy walking distance of each other, especially in the Kallio, Punavuori, and Viiskulma neighbourhoods. “In Viiskulma, I recommend Digelius, Eronen, and Tritone,” says Antti Eerikäinen, “as well as Black & White in Hakaniemi and the newer Fresh Garbage Records and Mind Records.” The latter is an electronic goldmine, hidden in a courtyard near the Ateneum Art Museum, with in-store DJ gigs on Wednesdays.

Liam Large of London’s JazzMan Records DJs at Flow Festival

3x

TOP OF THE SHOPS

HENRI HÄMÄLÄINEN

Helsinki’s best record shops, as recommended

by DJ Anna Cadia.

We Jazz DJs spin a new funk compilation at El Fant café.

2. Good Crates (Iso Roobertinkatu 16) is “a small, hard-to-find place in the basement of a sneaker store that sells mostly second-hand and DJ stuff, including techno, hip-hop, and electronic.”

FROM THE FIVE CORNERS

PIETARI PUROVAARA

 One of the fathers of

the local revival is Antti Eerikäinen, founder of the Ricky-Tick and Grotto labels. In 2003, he and Flow Festival founder Tuomas Kallio released a 10” by the jazz band Five Corners Quintet – named after the Viiskulma neighbourhood where many record shops are clustered.

“There’s a certain mysticism of the black wax with the etched grooves,” says Eerikäinen. “And there are excellent reissues, so you can get your hands on rare LPs transferred from original master tapes with love and care.” That’s a relief for those who want to own vintage Finnish LPs without going broke – as collectors from Japan and elsewhere are paying up to 1,000 euros for late ’60s classics.

1. Digelius (Laivurinrinne 2) is the city’s premier shop, especially for world music and jazz.

Founder Emu Laitinen, who died recently, has been hailed by many local musicians for shaping their own styles through his recommendations.

DEEP SOUNDS  While streaming has largely replaced

the CD, music lovers are rediscovering the timeless joys of dropping a needle onto wax and soaking in warm analogue sound.

“The sound is so much deeper, especially on the ’60s or ’70s stuff. Once you buy your first LPs, there’s no turning back!

People get addicted to the sound, the way the covers look and even smell,” says Jyri Lipponen, founder of the Äx (Record Shop X) chain. Lipponen reports rapid growth in vinyl, rising to half of sales in 2017 from 40 per cent the previous year. 

3. Redhill Records (Albertinkatu 5) has “a super collection of old funk, soul, Asian, Turkish, and whatever,” says Cadia.

“Apparently, Kanye West’s producer went there when Kanye was at Flow Festival, and almost missed his plane because he got so into listening to Iranian jazz or something.”

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

71

72

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Investigation Design diplomacy

Discoveries through dialogue How design-thinking could challenge traditional business innovation or even spice up global negotiations.

TEXT ELLIOT SILVERBERG ILLUSTRATION CHRISTER NUUTINEN

W

hen considering design, most of us think of industrial design, ­architecture, or fashion. But the past few years have seen the principles of design-thinking adapted beyond the fields of traditional design.

The creative strategies designers use to resolve issues have proven highly beneficial outside of the professional design practice, such as in business and social contexts.

Understanding people’s needs and building trust into the human experience are areas where a designer’s sensibilities can help to shape our public spaces and interactions with strangers.

These principles are the basis for the “Design Diplomacy” concept advanced by the organisers of Nordic Europe’s ­largest design festival, Helsinki Design Week, which is aimed at fostering dialogue between disparate groups.

Design Diplomacy, conceived two years ago to promote Finnish design expertise globally through interactions between Finnish and international designers, is part of a wider push to incorporate design’s inclusivity into efforts to promote diversity of thought in business and society. In this sense, Design Diplomacy and other similar dialogue-building efforts fly in the face of recent unsettling developments in social media, which exploit human vulnerability, reinforcing unhealthy civil and political discourse globally.

In practice, Design Diplomacy is fairly straightforward. Two strangers, both designers from different walks of life, gather with spectators at an ­ambassador’s private residence – an unfamiliar ­setting – and take turns drawing from a deck of 52 cards. Most of the cards are inscribed with a question, a few are left blank for the audience to fill. Topics range from the >

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

73

The strength of design diplomacy is precisely that it is not focused purely on innovation.

philosophically abstruse to the stodgily domestic.

But no matter where the setting and who the speakers – and there have been more than several to date, with Design Diplomacies convened at 22 embassies in Helsinki – it is commonly noted that the organic, unpretentious nature of the conversations make them well-suited for building trust and consensus, and thereby for advancing constructive dialogues.

“The Design Diplomacy format’s ability to engage speakers and spectators alike through open dialogue is very powerful and underestimated,” says Kari Korkman, founder and CEO of Helsinki Design Week. “Its applications extend far beyond design, to business innovation and even political and social engineering.”

MOVING BEYOND INNOVATION Morten Grønning Nielsen, an innovation designer and producer of over a dozen urban and social projects in the UK and his native Denmark, can attest to Design Diplomacy’s soothing and connective atmosphere. Nielsen is a rising star in design circles, and a winner at last year’s Danish Design Awards for his creation of Happaratus, a “power-glove” allowing users to hand-sculpt hard materials such as stone and wood.

Nielsen shared his Design Diplomacy experience with Tauno Tarna, a Finnish design legend and lifetime achievement award-winner famous not only for his influence over everyday objects such as kitchen utensils, but also for his work in environmental culture combatting the nebulous effects of industrialisation. Speculating that he and Tarna were paired to foster an intergenerational dialogue rarely seen at other design conferences, Nielsen suggests that the unscripted nature of their exchanges – both he and Tarna came into the event without knowledge of what was to be explored – ultimately made the discussion a more intuitive and constructive experience.

74

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Though this unscripted format is by no means unique to the Design Diplomacy construct, L ­ ondon Somerset House residents Fran Gallardo and Audrey Samson, of artist-researcher duo FRAUD/, agree that the Helsinki Design Week dialogues do contribute a potentially replicable means for individuals with different perspectives to commune.

“The strength of Design Diplomacy is precisely that it is not focused purely on innovation, whose output-driven research models tend only to produce short-term results for problems that don’t exist or ignore the full complexity of personal, political, and environmental issues,” FRAUD/ observe.

“As Design Diplomacy’s desired output is dialogue, and the model is not conscripted to innovation, it is easier to achieve open-ended d ­ iscussion and experimentation.”

SECRET SAUCE FOR SUCCESS Open dialogue and experimentation are indeed critical to design-thinking, and in fact often provide the secret sauce for a successful design solution, according to Anastasios Maragiannis, principal lecturer and head of design at the University of Greenwich, London, and an active keynote speaker at design conferences in the United States, Germany, China, Turkey, Greece, and Australia.

“To design inclusively is to engage people deeply throughout the design process, regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, disability, vulnerability, or language,” says Maragiannis, who recently curated a London exhibition, called d+iD (“diversity + inclusivity by design”), exploring the ways design can assimilate people of diverse backgrounds.

“By uncritically re-examining social constructs be they physical spaces or ideas propagated by groups with agendas, through inclusive design analysis it is possible to rebuild the person-to-person exchanges that are the bedrock of longer-lasting civic harmony,” adds Maragiannis.

BETTER TOGETHER In parallel with design-thinking’s inclusive breadth, proper strategic design requires almost a polymath’s understanding of real-life problems, a holistic approach made easier by close collaboration between multiple individuals each with their own subject-matter expertise.

Gallardo and Samson of FRAUD/ exemplify this collaborative approach to design-thinking. Together, the two leverage multidisciplinary experience in systems engineering, technology, ecology, and anthropology. Building on this considerable scope of knowledge, the two spent a residency at the Helsinki International Artist Programme examining the effects of forestry economics in Finland, Europe’s largest carbon sink.

They produced a “genealogy” – or family tree – of carbon and its many organic derivatives, from the carbon stored in trees and lichens, to its distilled forms in pine tar and fossil fuels. They even explored carbon’s “financialisation” in the EU’s Emissions Trading System (ETS), and in partnership with Guido Rudolphi, pioneer of Switzerland’s largest bitcoin mining farm, conceptualised the “indulgence coin,” a cryptocurrency based on the transaction of carbon credits.

Juha Kronqvist, lead service designer and design director at Hellon, a Helsinki-based service design agency, concurs that a strategic design process demands coordination of deep subject-matter expertise that is difficult to achieve on an individual level.

Kronqvist, also a lecturer on public sector design methods at Aalto University, observes that Finland’s government ministries, used to working separately within the boundaries of their respective jurisdictions, are increasingly finding traditional practices problematic for tackling complex issues requiring a broad knowledge base.

“In my experience, our government ministries need to improve cross-ministerial workflows and develop a collaborative mindset that empowers participatory

decision-making,” says Kronqvist, who currently is working with a team of design-thinkers to prepare a list of policy recommendations for all Finnish ministries ahead of parliamentary elections in 2019.

Design Diplomacy participant Hilla Rudanko, an architect involved in designing educational buildings and sustainable urban housing in Finland and overseas, believes that the Helsinki Design Week’s participatory and trust-building dialogues will be part of a growing and potentially instrumental effort by likeminded design-thinkers worldwide, to fortify the bonds of community that our changing times have unsettled. 

BLUE WINGS • Classified services Book your advertisement Fokus Media Finland / Media Sales 044 523 2520

LUT eMBA

[ Yksilöllinen valinta ]

Tietojohtaminen – Hankintojen johtaminen – Innovaatiojohtaminen

Voit aloittaa opinnot työn ohessa heti Tutustu lut.fi/mba

LUT Täydennyskoulutus sari.valkeapaa@lut.fi

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

75

Showroom

COMPILED BY SILJA KUDEL

Celebrating creative outcomes

Temple of steam

BEAUTIFUL BEARDS Facial hair may be fashionable, but flaky skin is not. Here are three toiletry essentials for keeping beard-druff at bay.

THE ONLY RITUAL being performed

TONI YLI-SUVANTO ARCHITECTS

in this minimalistic sanctuary is the steam cleansing kind. The Wooden Sauna Pavilion in Lapland by Toni ­­ Yli-Suvanto Architects is an architectural experiment with local solid wood, fusing rigid geometry with the stunning organic forms of the arctic landscape. “Solid wood has not been fully explored yet.

We reinterpreted traditional log construction taking advantage of the latest technology and the health benefits of using local wood, which minimises carbon footprint,” says Toni Yli-Suvanto. The sauna is in private use, but the same concept is being applied in on-going projects such as a new arctic wooden hotel planned in Kemijärvi, Lapland.

in Finnish) is aptly named after its woodsy fragrance. Apply daily after washing for hydration and scruff control. €12.90

NORMANN COPENHAGEN

LOVE HANDLES

METSURI (“logger”

FINGERS JUST ITCH to grasp the

curvaceous mid-section of Obi cups from Normann Copenhagen. Besides providing a firm grip, the silicone belt shields hands from hot beverages and gives the cups a delightfully chubby silhouette. Obi porcelain cups come in three sizes in toneon-tone pastel shades. €9.25–€12 normann-copenhagen.com

RISU transforms beards into beacons of philanthropy with seascented Baltic Blue. One euro for every bottle sold helps prevent pollution of the Baltic Sea. €35.90

STYLE FOR CHOPAHOLICS NORDIC NATURE ventures into kitchens with

MIIKO

a Miiko chopping board. The birch plywood boards come in a range of graphic designs featuring black-and-white forests, arctic landscapes, and illustrated fauna. Matching coasters and trays are also available. €32 miiko.fi

N

DESIG

76

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

PARTAWA keeps beards

silky and itch-free with its vitamin E-rich Metsän Henki (“spirit of the forest”) beard oil made of 100% natural oils with fresh cedar notes. €29.90

STUDIO JOANNA LAAJISTO

Oh Jackie!

I

nternational design zines are raving about Jackie, a nostalgic Helsinki bar designed by Joanna Laajisto of Studio Joanna Laajisto.

Combining menacing green, tan leather, and stripy inlaid marble tops, the bar takes its cue from Italian lounge music and French Cosmic Disco from the 1970s.

“The owner Antti Eerikäinen gave us ’60s and ’70s soundtracks to help us understand the ambience

he wanted. But I wouldn’t call this a vintage decor. We wanted a contemporary space with a touch of 1970s Milan – as it exists in my imagination,” says Laajisto.

In addition to being a hot new drinks venue, Jackie serves North Italian-style pizza by renowned Finnish chef Antto Melasniemi.

Iso Roobertinkatu 21

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

77

Globetrotter

On the road with a travel blogger

Classic car ­spotting in the Kruununhaka neighbourhood

Suomenlinna sea fortress, a Unesco World Heritage Site

A winter day near ­Kanavaranta

The Finnish ­Museum of Natural History’s spiral staircase

Beauty in the details Henri Kallio is a master at finding Helsinki’s most photographable secrets.

How do you find the unexpected angles of Helsinki? Helsinki is one of the most walkable cities so slow down, look around, sneak into the courtyards, and search for the prettiest doorways or coolest façades – beauty is in the everyday details.

If you could time travel into historical Helsinki, what year would you choose and why? 1917. Helsinki is one of the finest Jugend style or art nouveau cities and I would love to spend an afternoon exploring the architectural details and city life at the turn of the last century.

78

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Katajanokka and Ullanlinna are my favourite areas for architectural time travelling today.

Which three adjectives would you use to describe Helsinki? My Helsinki is local, bold, and sincere. Just like us locals, Helsinki has the courage to maintain a unique personality.

What’s your favourite detail of the city?

The Finnish Museum of Natural History has the most spectacular spiral staircase in town, if not in the whole world. A true Helsinki secret.

Henri Kallio is a passionate photographer, Instagrammer, world traveller, architecture lover, and business school graduate from Helsinki. detailsofhelsinki

Fly

The world of Finnair

Be inspired The world is your playground with Finnair’s extensive network.

World of Finnair Destination of the month

STR

Stuttgart, Germany

RELAXING STUTTGART

The southern German city of Stuttgart is best known for its vine-clad hills and luxury automobile brands Mercedes-Benz and Porsche. A recent study also ranked Stuttgart as the least stressful city in the world. With a wealth of options from museums and nightlife, the city still maintains a small-town atmosphere. For those wishing to escape the urban hullabaloo, Esslingen (pictured), located some 14 kilometres from downtown Stuttgart, makes an atmospheric day trip in a cosy, historical setting. Finnair starts direct flights on April 23, 2018.

80

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

World of Finnair Highlights of the month

Moominmania A touch of Nordic Finnair celebrates its Nordic roots with a new Business Class service, offering customers a restaurant-like dining experience with more food and wine options served on-demand.

Business Class passengers will also receive more individualised service with dedicated cabin crew.

To round out the new concept, Business Class passengers on

long-haul flights departing in the morning from Asia will be treated to a kahvikutsut – which is a Finnish tradition of coffee accompanied by Karelian pies, cinnamon buns, or coffee cake.

The concept launches o ­n ­February 7 on flights to Seoul, Tokyo, and Shanghai. The remaining long-haul flights will follow in the spring and summer.

The beloved Finnish Moomins are the stars of Finnair’s new family travel concept.

Various characters, images, and material will accompany families throughout their journey, ranging from a Moomin-themed check-in counter to luggage tags and onboard giveaways, like a Moomin Finlayson towel. Children travelling in Business Class will receive an exclusive Moomin amenity kit. Young passengers will also be able to enjoy the popular Moomin animation series via the in-flight entertainment system. The concept takes off on Finnair flights during the first half of this year.

FINNAIR ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Finnair Saya Ito from Japan is our 2 millionth customer on our Asian routes this year. #growth #aviation

feelfinnair Every inch of the airplane is checked before technical acceptance is completed. #aviation #toulouse #a350

Finnair Finnair’s 11th A350 aircraft carries new, beautiful Kivet (stones) livery from Marimekko. Watch a video of the painting process.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

81

World of Finnair Services

STAY CONNECTED

Fly the Nordic way

FINNAIR CHAT Finnair Live chat is available on weekdays 7 am to 10 pm, on Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm, and on Sundays 10 am to 10 pm (Finnish time).

MEET FINN Finnair’s chatbot, affectionately known as Finn, is ready to help plan your journey via Finnair’s global Facebook Messenger account.

FINNAIR APP Tap your way through your journey. Log in with your last name and booking reference or your Finnair Plus username and password.

SKY HIGH WI-FI All Finnair

WITH A MODERN FLEET, extensive route network, and world-class service, Finnair offers a comfortable and convenient way to travel.

A330 and A350 aircraft offer Wi-Fi connections.

WECHAT

E

stablished in 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest airlines.

Since then, the company has grown from a small carrier to one that is a respected member of the international airline industry.

With over 100 destinations in Finland, Europe, Asia, and North America, Finnair’s route network includes 17 destinations in Asia, 4

in North America, and some 70 in Europe. In 2016, Finnair carried more than 10.8 million passengers, with more than 1.6 million passengers flying between Asia and Helsinki every year.

Finnair’s modern and ­ecofriendly fleet consists of over 60 aircraft, most of which are Airbuses.

Scan and follow Finnair’s official WeChat account.

SMART PACKING

TIPS FOR A SMOOTH TAKEOFF

Pack too much?

Automatic check-in

Self-service bag-drop

Off-peak lounging

Finnair can do the check-in for you and send your boarding pass to your mobile phone. Just add your phone number to your Finnair Plus profile.

Print your bag tag at the self-service kiosk, go to the self-service bag drop, scan your boarding pass, scan your bag tag, and send your bag through.

Use Finnair Plus points for a reduced price Finnair Lounge voucher at Helsinki Airport. Access is for flights departing during off-peak hours.

82

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Avoid excess baggage fees by paying in advance for extra allowance at special pre-paid prices directly from finnair.com.

Liquids rule Liquids are allowed through security in containers (max 100ml) packed in a transparent resealable 1-litre plastic bag.

World of Finnair Frequent flyer program

FI N LU T A /P M IN O JO R.C I A

N

S

Finnair Plus membership THE FINNAIR PLUS program allows you to earn both tier points and award points when travelling with Finnair or a oneworld airline and from services provided by Finnair Plus partners.

A WORLD OF BENEFITS

WHAT’S NEW THIS MONTH?

Cruising away

J

oin Finnair Plus for free by filling in the form attached to this magazine or online at finnair.com/plus.

As a Finnair Plus member, you get access to valuable benefits and rewards. Earn points for flights and services and use them both at home and abroad.

You can use your Finnair Plus award points for additional Finnair services such as seat selection, meals, and extra baggage payments. The number of points you pay depends on your flight and the chosen service. You can pay for travel extras at the time you book your reservation or later through the Manage Booking tab.

Go to finnairshop.com to find Finnair gift cards, partner services, and award vouchers.

BEST FROM PARTNERS

Earn or redeem points when booking a cruise from Risteilykeskus, a travel agency specialised in cruises. finnairshop.com

Coming soon! Finnair Plus will get some fantastic new improvements. Now’s the time to check that your profile is up-to-date and your contact details are current so you can be one of the first to hear the good news! Stay tuned! finnair.com/plus

Special offer Eager to spend your ­Finnair Plus award points, but don’t have quite enough for what you want? To quickly increase your point ­balance, buy points b ­ etween Jan 15 and Feb 11 and receive up to 40% more points! You can also buy award points for family ­members or friends. finnairshop.com

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

83

World of Finnair Deals of the month

7 reasons to love finnairshop.com

Sleeping mask 75 ml Available in pre-order shopping catalogue

€56

SA V

E

19

%

SHOPPING ALERT! The Finnair Shop is your one-stop shopping site to pre-order products before your flight, use your Finnair Plus points to buy Nordic design items delivered directly to your home, and use your Finnair Plus points for various Finnair Plus partner services.

LANCÔME ENERGIE DE VIE

EVE LOM Cleanser Available in pre-order shopping catalogue

BIOEFFECT EGF

€34

Serum 15+5 ml Travel retail exclusive!

Available in pre-order shopping catalogue

SA V

E

36

%

€129

RETAIL THERAPY

SHOPPING MADE EASY! ESTÉE LAUDER Advanced Night Repair 30 ml Available in pre-order shopping catalogue

€58

84

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

Now you can use your Finnair Plus points to pay for your pre-order products and ­onboard purchases!

Go to the complimentary Nordic Sky portal onboard – the ­pre-order webshop is always open on Wi-Fi connected Finnair flights. Find the best deals on ­tax-free products and enjoy special Finnair Plus offers.

World of Finnair Deals of the month

1, O 00 FF 0 ER P

JANUARY DEAL

FREE GIFT WITH PURCHASE

MARTTIINI

Fisherman set Available from the Finnair Shop for home delivery

This month buy 3 skin care products from finnairshop.com and get a free skin care gift with your purchase!

€45 + 1,000 p

4X WAYS TO SHOP ONBOARD Shop online via your own mobile device during the flight using the complimentary Nordic Sky portal.

HAPPY PLUGS

€69 + 1,000 p

1, O 00 FF 0 ER P

Sound piece mini Available from the Finnair Shop for home delivery

PRE-ORDER Pre-order online before any Finnair flight. finnairshop.com

P 0 0 R 0 E 2, FF O

HOME DELIVERY Use Finnair Plus points to shop for products delivered directly to your home.

HOTEL KÄMP VOUCHER A one-night accommodation in a deluxe room (available at finnairshop.com)

€145 + 2,000 p

VOUCHERS Use Finnair Plus points to redeem a voucher for restaurants, hotel stays, car rentals, and much more.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

85

World of Finnair Flying stories

Every seat has a story

3X #FEELFINNAIR Share your Finnair moments on Instagram using @feelfinnair. If you want to be featured, use #feelfinnair.

IT’S THE CUSTOMERS who make Finnair and that’s why we’ve dedicated this page to your travel stories.

MEET THE FREQUENT FLYER

sinimustonen Going away for the weekend to Copenhagen! #finnair #flight #wanderlust #travelblogger

sebt03 Snow shoeing was a good way to explore Lapland. #visitlapland #levilapland #suomi100 Kanang Chaturaphatranon Finnair Plus ­member Finnair Plus tier Silver Average flights per year Three to four flights Next destination Lapland

Which Finnair Plus benefit do you use most? I use points for a travel class upgrade or for a restaurant voucher.

What is your all-time favourite ­destination? Tokyo. The city is big, beautiful, and unique.

What is the most impressive airport? Helsinki Airport! The design is modern and clean. Signs are clear and the selection of shops are great. Plus it’s a short walk even to the farthest gates.

How do you stay busy onboard?

Inflight entertainment. I once bingewatched six movies on a long-haul.

86

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

What item could you never travel without? Comfortable clothes – especially on long-haul flights.

stardazzle Iceland you have been so wonderful, I will miss you very much! #iceland #reykjavik #colourfulhouses

World of Finnair Sky Food

Eat well FANCY A SNACK ONBOARD? Finnair offers a wide selection of seasonal and healthy options that combine the best of the Nordics, Europe, and Asia.

3 WAYS TO A TASTY MEAL

CHEF OF THE SEASON EAST MEETS WEST above the clouds with Finnair’s chef Steven Liu, whose three signature menu items embrace a palate of Asian flavours, garnished with a Nordic twist. These delicious dishes are available on selected flights from China to Finland.

SIGNATURE MENU. Business Class passengers on Finnair long-haul flights can enjoy Signature Menus prepared by chefs from top restaurants.

SKY BISTRO. Passengers on Finnair flights within Europe and the Middle East can mix and match favourite tastes from the onboard Sky Bistro menu.

Complimentary beverages Complimentary coffee, tea, water, and Finnair’s signature blueberry juice are always served on Finnair flights.

FINNA

SKY BISTRIR O

Pick of the month PRE-ORDER. Passengers on Finnair flights within Europe and the Middle East can choose sandwiches, salads, breakfast, or dinner in advance from the Nordic Bistro menu.

Passengers on selected European routes can now book a Seat and Meal package, that includes a meal, drink, seat, and boarding among the first customers.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

87

World of Finnair Wellness & comfort

3X TIPS FOR CABIN COMFORT

Onboard wellness

STAY HYDRATED It is recommended to drink 250 ml (8 oz.) of water every hour. If possible, minimise the amount of tea, coffee, and alcohol you drink.

HEALTHIER AIRCRAFT The Finnair A350 combines the latest technology with advanced passenger comfort features to help you rediscover the thrill of flying.

An advanced HEPA filtering system changes the cabin air every two to three minutes ensuring comfort and health for all passengers. Large

windows let natural light flow into the cabin and LED technology emits lighting and colours that are customised to fit the time of day, destination, or season. The noise level is 16 decibels below the standard requirement, so resting and relaxing while onboard is easy.

GET SOME SLEEP The best way to tune out is to wear an eye mask and ear plugs. Keep warm, too – have a jacket or blanket handy in case you need it.

2X COMFORTABLE UPGRADES NORDIC BUSINESS CLASS

ECONOMY COMFORT

GENERAL WELLBEING

Finnair’s Business Class seats let you fully recline on your intercontinental flight. The seats transform into a 200 cm (6’6”) horizontal bed, so you can enjoy a good night’s sleep.

Finnair’s Economy Comfort seating in the front of the Economy Class cabin makes intercontinental travel even more pleasurable with 8–13 cm (3–5 inches) more legroom.

Try to bring something to snack on.

Fruit and veggies are always a great healthy option. And remember to wear comfortable clothing.

88

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

World of Finnair Flight mode

Stay connected THE NORDIC SKY Wi-Fi portal is available on all intercontinental flights and gives you access to news, destination information, and Finnair services. You can use the portal to connect your own devices to the internet.

HOW TO GET STARTED

1

FINNAIR APP – YOUR TRAVEL COMPANION Get boarding passes, book flights and travel extras, view your Finnair Plus balance, and much more with the Finnair app. The app supports your Finnair journey all the way from home to your destination and back!

urn your T device to flight mode and ­enable Wi-Fi

2

Join the Wi-Fi ­network Nordic Sky

3

Open the browser of your choice

4

Start exploring at nordic-sky. finnair.com

1 HOUR

3 HOURS

12 HOURS

7.95€

11.95€

19.95€

You can purchase or redeem internet access directly from the portal.

WHAT’S PLAYING WIND RIVER An FBI agent teams up with a game tracker to investigate the murder of a local girl.

AMERICAN MADE Barry is a drug smuggler and pilot who is recruited by the CIA to carry out one of the largest covert operations in U.S. history.

KINGSMAN: THE GOLDEN CIRCLE When their headquarters are destroyed, the ­Kingsmans embark on a journey.

THE MIDDLE Sitcom starring Emmywinning actress Patricia Heaton as Frankie, the frazzled matriarch of the dysfunctional Heck clan.

STRONGER One man becomes a symbol of hope and determination for a wounded city.

NEW GIRL Quirky comedy focusing on the offbeat, adorable Jess Day, who moves in with three single guys following a bad break-up.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

89

World of Finnair Staff tips

The tropical sand and slate ­terrain of Monsoon Valley Vineyard

LOTTA POLVIANDER

Flying high for wine

Steep terraced vineyards of the Duoro Valley

SERVICE MOTIVATOR and flight attendant Tarja Mattsson shares three of her favourite wineries from across the globe.

Not many people think of Thailand as wine country, but the Monsoon Valley Vineyard actually produces several internationally awarded wines. A range of grape varietals are grown here – including Shiraz, Colombardi, Chenin Blanc, and Dornfelder. Visitors can tour the vineyards and learn how vines grow in such a tropical climate or attend a wine tasting experience where sommeliers explain the production process from vine to glass.

DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL

The wine estates that stretch along the Duoro River from Porto to Pinhâo are truly breathtaking with their steep terraces, which were built by hand hundreds of years ago and are so steep that all of the grape harvesting

90

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

must be done by hand. Although the Douro Valley is primarily famous for its Port, the sparkling white and red wines are definitely worth a mention. Many of the quintas (estates) offer tours as well as wine tastings. Comfortable walking shoes are a must here!

LOTTA POLVIANDER

HUA HIN, THAILAND

CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE

Did you know that the Champagne region is the world’s coldest wine growing area, with an average temperature of only 10.5 degrees Celsius? The cool climate makes for optimal ripening. The town of Reims is home to the famous champagne producers Krug and Taittinger; while just a 30-minute drive from Reims is the family-owned Champagne Joseph Perrier – whose champagne so happens to be Finnair’s chosen house champagne!

Tarja Mattsson is part of the tasting team that selects wines for ­Finnair flights.

World of Finnair Holiday sampler

STOP & BREATHE WHEN TRAVELLING via Helsinki, why not book a Finnair Stopover and stay in Finland for one or two days on your way between Europe and Asia?

EXPERIENCE MORE WITH THE NEW FINNAIR HOLIDAYS FINNAIR HOLIDAYS is a completely new way to travel. You’ll get flights, hotels, unique experieces, and triple the amount of Finnair Plus points – all from one place. Find your story at finnair.fi/holidays.

INTRIGUING DESTINATIONS

TRIPLE FINNAIR PLUS POINTS

Finnair Holidays opens the door to the most intriguing places in the world. Choose a theme for a unique holiday experience.

You can earn three Finnair Plus tier and award points for every euro used on your Finnair Holidays experience.

FLIGHTS, HOTEL, AND A HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE Finnair Holidays is an easy way to find flights, hotels, and unique experiences all in one place.

HOW TO BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS

1. Choose your departure city and your final destination.

2. Choose whether you want to stopover on the outbound or return journey.

3. Choose how long you wish to stopover in Finland – from 5 hours up to 5 days.

4. Proceed to booking and you will directly see the available flights and the final ticket price.

5. Purchase activities from Finnair’s stopover partner at finlandtours.fi

TOP 3 FINNAIR HOLIDAYS EXPERIENCES

Cebu. An island adventure awaits in the Philippines! Relax on a sandy beach or explore the urban charm of modern skyscrapers and tiny, colourful houses.

Los Angeles. This city offers something for everybody – from fascinating design and iconic Hollywood to trendy restaurants and bohemian beach life.

Lisbon. Be transported to a different world! Stroll the old-world quarter of Alfama while indulging in all the tempting cuisines of the Portuguese capital.

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

91

World of Finnair Sustainability

TIM BIRD

Magic of Madagascar F

or the past six years, Finnair has supported a forest restoration initiative in eastern Madagascar in cooperation with the Finnish Association for Nature Conservation (FANC).

The initiative, entitled Project Manondroala, aims to preserve the wealth of local flora and fauna in the area. Manondroala means “showing the forest” in the Malagasy language. Thus far, more than 180,000 tree seedlings have been planted and 150 hectares of forest restored to this biodiversity hotspot.

As Project Manondroala wraps up, FANC will carry on its work with the Torotorofotsy wetland, also located in eastern Madagascar.

Launched in 2015, Project Torotorofotsy aims to preserve the wetland and the various endangered species that inhabit the area.

“Retaining and fostering biodiversity is important to Finnair.

Therefore, we actively contribute to projects that conserve wildlife and the natural environment,” says Outi Merilä, Manager Environmental Management for Finnair.

Starting this month, Finnair supports Project Torotorofotsy through donations directed towards preserving the wetland and developing sustainable farming practices as well as environmental education for the locals.

BETTER PLANET Finnair’s sustainability strategy is built on three principles – cleaner, caring, collaborative.

DO GOOD Finnair Plus members can make point donations via finnairshop.com to • The Finnish Association for Nature Conservation • Crisis Management Initiative (CMI) • The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals • The Cancer Society of Finland • The Finnish Red Cross • UNICEF Finland • Hope • UN Women

90+ YEARS AND COUNTING 1923

1924

1947

1952

1968

1969

1980

1992

Finnair, known as Aero, was founded

Finnair receives its first aircraft: Junkers F 13

Finnair air hostesses take to the skies

Helsinki Airport opens

Finnair reveals its new logo and name change

First Finnair trans-Atlantic flight to New York City

Blue Wings launches

The Finnair Plus program is introduced

92

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

World of Finnair Fleet

AIRBUS A350-900 Number 11 + 8 on order Seating capacity 297 Length 66.8 m Wingspan 64.75 m Cruising speed 903 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 13,000 m AIRBUS A330-300 Number 8 Seating capacity 289/263 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 870 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,600 m AIRBUS A321 (ER) Number 15 Seating capacity 196–209 Length 44.5 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A320 Number 10 Seating capacity 165 Length 37.6 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A319 Number 8 Seating capacity 138 Length 33.8 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m EMBRAER 190 Operated by Norra Number 12 Seating capacity 100 Length 36.2 m Wingspan 28.7 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m

1995

1997

1999

2004

2013

2014

2015

2017

Finnair’s website launches

Finnair joins oneworld alliance

Arrival of ­ irbus A320 A

Online check-in opens

Launch of Marimekko for Finnair collection

Finnair celebrates its 90th anniversary

Arrival of ­ irbus A350 A

Finnair celebrates Finland’s centenary UNDER THE

NORT HER N SKIES – 100 STORIES CELEBRATING

FLYING –

| VIEW FROM THE COCKPIT | KING | STYLE IN THE CRAB FLIES CARGO SKIES | DISCOVERIES | WELCOME TO WITH | FINNISH SNOW-HOW NOBEL LAUREATE BENGT HOLMSTRÖM HEL | | BEHIND THE SCENES | LOVE IN THE AIR | AT THE AIRPORT |

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

93

U.S.

C AN ADA

U N I T E D

S TAT E S

Miami

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Plata

BR A ZIL Finnair Destinations New Finnair Destinations 2018

FLIGHTS WITHIN EUROPE Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km AMSTERDAM 1525 02:35 ALANYA/GAZIPASA 2722 03:45 ALICANTE 3034 04:25 ARRECIFE 4518 05:55 ATHENS 2490 03:40 BARCELONA 2632 03:55 BERGEN 1112 03:30 BERLIN 1123 02:00 BIARRITZ 2581 03:45 BILLUND 1060 01:50 BRUSSELS 1651 02:40 BUDAPEST 1481 02:20 CATANIA 2636 03:45 CHANIA 2756 03:50 COPENHAGEN 895 01:40 CORFU 2329 03:25 DALAMAN 2639 03:40 DUBLIN 2030 03:10 DUBROVNIK 2027 03:00 DÜSSELDORF 1512 02:25 EDINBURGH 1717 02:40 EILAT 3457 04:45 EKATERINBURG 2098 03:05 FRANKFURT 1543 02:35 FUERTEVENTURA 4578 06:05 FUNCHAL 4310 05:45 GDANSK 768 02:00

FROM HELSINKI

94

BLUE WINGS

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km GENEVA 1994 03:00 GOTHENBURG 785 01:25 HAMBURG 1172 02:00 HERAKLION 2777 03:55 IBIZA 2897 04:00 INNSBRUCK 1701 02:35 KAZAN 1521 02:30 KOS 2620 03:45 KRAKOW 1186 02:00 LAS PALMAS 4700 06:10 LISBON 3369 04:50 LJUBLJANA 1713 02:40 LONDON 1863 03:10 MADRID 2950 04:25 MALAGA 3357 04:35 MALTA 2822 04:15 MANCHESTER 1817 03:00 MENORCA 2688 04:05 MILAN 1953 03:05 MOSCOW 876 01:40 MUNICH 1577 02:30 MYTILENE 1471 03:35 NAPLES 2283 03:25 NICE 2202 03:25 OSLO 766 01:30 PALMA DE MALLORCA 2777 04:00 PAPHOS 2898 04:00

FROM HELSINKI

JANUARY 2018

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km PARIS 1900 03:05 PISA 2093 03:20 PRAGUE 1322 02:10 PREVEZA 2397 03:25 PULA 1865 02:55 REYKJAVIK 2429 03:50 RHODES 2668 03:45 RIGA 382 00:55 RIMINI 1993 03:00 ROME 2235 03:25 SALZBURG 1592 02:30 SAMARA 1698 02:35 SANTORINI 2660 03:40 SKIATHOS 2353 03:30 SPLIT 1956 02:55 STOCKHOLM 400 01:00 ST. PETERSBURG 301 01:00 STUTTGART 1637 02:45 TALLINN 101 00:30 TARTU 245 00:50 TEL AVIV 3230 04:25 TENERIFE NORTE 4691 06:10 TENERIFE SUR 4745 06:10 TROMSÖ 1078 01:55 VARNA 1911 02:55 VENICE 1847 02:55 VERONA 1903 02:55

FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km VIENNA 1462 02:30 VILNIUS 633 01:15 VISBY 481 01:25 WARSAW 940 01:40 ZAKYNTHOS 2526 03:55 ZÜRICH 1781 02:45

FROM HELSINKI

Stromsö Ivalo Kittilä Ivalo Rovaniemi Kittilä Kuusamo Kemi Rovaniemi Oulu Kuusamo Kajaani Kemi Kokkola Oulu Kuopio Kajaani Vaasa Kokkola Jyväskylä Joensuu Kuopio Tampere Vaasa Jyväskylä Joensuu Turku Tampere Mariehamn Bergen Turku Mariehamn Bergen Tartu Gothenburg Tartu Visby Billund Visby Gothenburg Edinburgh Billund Minsk Edinburgh Kazan Gdansk Manchester Hamburg Minsk Gdansk Manchester Hamburg Stromsö

RU S S I A RU S S I A Ekaterinburg Ekaterinburg Kazan

Düsseldorf Frankfurt Krakow Düsseldorf Stuttgart Frankfurt Krakow Salzburg Zürich Innsbruck Stuttgart Salzburg Ljubljana Zürich Geneve Innsbruck Venice Verona Pula Ljubljana Nice Rimini Geneve Biarritz Venice Pisa Split Verona Pula Dubrovnik Nice Rimini Biarritz Pisa Split Dubrovnik Naples Menorca Corfu Ibiza Skiathos Preveza NaplesPalma de Menorca Mytilene Alicante Zakynthos Mallorca Corfu Ibiza Skiathos Kos Dalaman Catania Preveza Palma de Mytilene Santorini Alicante Zakynthos Mallorca Rhodes Alanya Chania Heraklion Kos Dalaman Catania Santorini Paphos Rhodes Alanya Chania Heraklion Paphos Funchal

CH I N A Eilat

Xian

Nagoya Nanjing

Xian

Nanjing Chongqing

chal

Arrecife Tenerif Norte Tenerif Sur Fuerteventura Arrecife Las Palmas Norte f Sur Fuerteventura Las Palmas

Nagoya

CH I N A

Fukuoka

Fukuoka

Osaka

Osaka

Chongqing

Eilat

Xian

Dubai Xian

Dubai

Goa Goa Krabi Phuket

Krabi Phuket

AU STR ALIA AU S TR ALIA

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km IVALO 931 01:35 JOENSUU 360 01:00 JYVÄSKYLÄ 235 00:50 KAJAANI 464 01:20 MARIEHAMN 282 00:55 KEMI/TORNIO 609 01:35 KITTILÄ 823 01:25 KOKKOLA/PIETARSAARI 391 01:10 KUOPIO 335 01:00 KUUSAMO 667 01:15 OULU 514 01:05 ROVANIEMI 697 01:20 TAMPERE 143 00:35 TURKU 150 00:35 VAASA 348 00:55

FROM HELSINKI

INTERCONTINENTAL FLIGHTS WINTER SEASON 2017–2018: FINNAIR ADDS FLIGHTS TO POPULAR WINTER DESTINATIONS IN LAPLAND, INCLUDING NEW NON-STOP FLIGHTS FROM LONDON, PARIS, AND ZÜRICH LONDON GATWICK – IVALO 2 WEEKLY FLIGHTS LONDON GATWICK – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT PARIS – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT ZÜRICH – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km BANGKOK 7912 09:45 BEIJING 6325 07:55 CHICAGO 7139 09:15 CHONGQING 6736 08:40 DELHI 5229 06:50 DUBAI 4537 05:55 FUKUOKA 8060 09:30 GOA 6328 08:50 GUANGZHOU 7693 09:30 HAVANA 8703 11:15 HÔ CHI MINH CITY (Saigon) 8510 10:50 HONG KONG 7821 09:35 KRABI 8350 10:20 MIAMI 8342 11:10 NAGOYA 7780 09:40

FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km NANJING 7165 09:35 NEW YORK 6626 08:45 OSAKA 7751 09:30 PHUKET 8312 10:05 PUERTO VALLARTA 9960 12:30 PUERTO PLATA 8410 11:15 SAN FRANCISCO 8724 10:45 SEOUL 7050 08:40 SHANGHAI 7410 09:05 SINGAPORE 9272 11:30 TOKYO 7849 09:45 XIAN 6421 07:50

FROM HELSINKI

JANUARY 2018 BLUE WINGS

95

World of Finnair Airport info

55

53

54

52 SOUTH PIER GATES 54–55

2ND FLOOR

BUS GATES 51 A–D

NONSCHENGEN AREA

FINNAIR LOUNGE FINNAIR PREMIUM LOUNGE

34

HAPPY LANDINGS

33 GROUND FLOOR

BUS GATES 50 A–M

Security control

NONSCHENGEN AREA

32 32a

Welcome to Helsinki Airport

2ND FLOOR

31x 31

TRANSFER SERVICE 3

Border control

SCHENGEN AREA

Border control

Security check

CHECK YOUR GATE and departure time on the airport monitors. All Finnair and Nordic Regional Airlines (Norra) departures are located in the same terminal. If you do not have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desks in T2.

28

T2

CHECK-IN 240–270

27 GATE AREA

26 TRANSFER SERVICE 2

Security check

CHECK IN 101–114

GATE AREA

29

1ST FLOOR

FINNAIR CHECK IN/ SERVICE DESKS 201–229

2ND FLOOR

31a-e 30

TRANSFER SERVICE 1

HELSINKI AIRPORT has 35 automated border control gates for travellers flying to or from destinations outside of the Schengen area. Fifteen are located in the departure hall; 15 are located in the upstairs arrival hall; another five are available in the downstairs arrival hall (for EU/EEA/CH citizens only).

Passengers from the EU, EEA, CH, Japan, and South Korea with biometric passports can use the automated border control gates. Australian, Canadian, New Zealand, and U.S. citizens with biometric passports may use the automated border control upon departure only. All other nationalities must use the manned border control booths in the departure and arrival halls.

Those passengers travelling with infants, baggage trolleys, or wheelchairs must use the manual control lane.

25

Security check

11

24 12

13

14

15

16 17 18 19

20

21

22

23

PHARMACY

T1

TOURIST INFO BAGGAGE STORAGE

GROUND FLOOR

FINNAIR LOUNGE 3RD FLOOR

1ST FLOOR

WIRELESS INTERNET Helsinki Airport offers free Wi-Fi throughout the airport.

96

BLUE WINGS

JANUARY 2018

PLAYROOM Children’s playrooms offer toys, videos, and baby care facilities.

NON-SMOKING Smoking is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

THE FINNAIR CITY BUS to the Helsinki Railway Station leaves from T2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at T1.

Travel time is approx. 30 minutes. €6.30 THE RING RAIL LINE connects Helsinki Airport to downtown Helsinki via train. There is direct access from the corridor between T1 and T2.

AMAZING NANJING AWAITS YOU T H E N O R D I C WAY

EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE HISTORICAL CAPITALS OF CHINA.

Nanjing holds some breathtaking historical sites that should definitely be added on your travel bucket list. Enjoy Ming Dynasty artwork, admire the Gate of China and taste unique local delicacies. When the day is over, discover vibrant nightlife as this gorgeous city comes to life. Finnair flies several weekly direct flights from Helsinki to Nanjing from May to October 2018. Book your flights at finnair.com

FINLAND FACTS Nature

75%

land covered by forests

188,000 lakes

Government

1917

Sovereign parliamentary republic

1995 Monthly temperatures in Helsinki (2016):

area

390,908km2

Member of EU since January 1995

200 members

elected for four-year terms

Parliament

land used for agriculture

Population

Languages SÁ

5.5

million

SE

FI

whooper swan

Economy

elected every six years; current president is Sauli Niinistö who took office in March 2012

Education

Universities

GDP

(2016*)

€216 billion

the annual change in volume 1.9% *preliminary

88% speak Finnish 5.3% speak Swedish 0.04% speak Sámi

President

Currency

EURO

71% of students

who studied beyond basic ­education

Consumption of coffee per capita

Fun facts

9.9kg

12.3 l

356,000*

National food: rye bread 98

BLUE WINGS

15

Ice cream consumed per capita

JANUARY 2018

2,000,000* saunas *estimate

overnight stays by foreign travellers (Oct 2017) *preliminary

Source: Statistics Finland Illustration: Angelina Luzhina

7%

National bird:

LOMAHETKIÄ

SUOMALAISTEN KANSSA JO YLI 50 VUODEN AJAN

aurinkomatkat.fi

T H E SMART S PORT S WATCH

SUUNTO SPARTAN ULTRA

SUUNTO SPARTAN SPECIAL EDITIONS

SUUNTO SPARTAN SPORT WRIST HR

Oy Osk. Lindroos Ab Helsinki Airport Schengen, gate 27 | Helsinki Airport Non-Schengen, gate 33 | www.lindroos.fi