Blue Wings Food and wine issue November 2013

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF HELSINKI AIRPORT

SINGAPORE TEA

Food and wine issue

TOP 5 DINING IN COPENHAGEN

FINLAND’S LOCAL FOOD BOOM

November 2013

Your l na perso y cop

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE UNIQUE ASYMMETRIC STYLING OF THE AUDEMARS PIGUET MILLENARY COLLECTION HAS TRANSFORMED THE WAY DESIGN ENGINEERS DEVELOP CALIBRES. THIS TRI - DIMENSIONAL MOVEMENT COMBINES PERFORMANCE AND CHRONOMETRY WITH HAUTE HOROLOGY MICRO-DETAILING. IN THE TRANSVERSAL BALANCE - BRIDGE, OPTIMUM SHOCK RESISTANCE IS COMBINED WITH THE ELEGANCE OF THE CÔTES DE GENÈVE WAVE-FORM FINISHING. THE PERFECT SYMBIOSIS OF ENGINEERING, DESIGN AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, AND A CLASSIC EXPRESSION OF THE PHILOSOPHY OF LE BRASSUS.

MILLENARY 4101 IN PINK GOLD. SELFWINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT.

EDITORIAL

BY ARJA SUOMINEN SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS AND CORPORATE RESPONSIBILTY

WWW.FINNAIR.COM

DEPUTY EDITOR Laura Palotie laura.palotie@sanoma.com +358 9 120 5815

Marimekko textiles and tableware were introduced on Finnair flights this year.

ART DIRECTOR Miia Taskinen miia.taskinen@sanoma.com LAYOUT DESIGNER Peter Sade CONTENT MANAGER Kati Heikinheimo REPROGRAPHICS Anne Lindfors, Tuukka Palmio ENGLISH TRANSLATION Wif Stenger EDITORIAL OFFICES Lapinmäentie 1, 00350 Helsinki, Finland, Postal address P.O.Box 100, 00040 Sanoma Magazines, Finland, tel. +358 9 1201, fax +358 9 120 5988, e-mail firstname.lastname@sanoma.com ADVERTISING SALES Media Assistant Sirkka Pulkkinen tel. +358 9 120 5921 PUBLISHER Sanoma Magazines Finland Oy Custom Publishing PRINTED BY Hansaprint, Turku, Finland 2013 PAPER Nova Press 70g Cover paper Lumi Art Silk 200g CIRCULATION 60,000 ISSN-0358-7703

An uplifting

anniversary

D

id you know that Finnair is the fifth oldest airline in the world? We started from relatively humble origins on November 1, 1923, and mark our 90th anniversary in 2013. We’ve grown into an airline that connects Europe and Asia in a significant way.

Asian edition readers of TTG (Travel Trade Gazette) recently voted

Finnair the best airline in Europe (read more on page 8) citing factors such as punctuality, service quality and hassle-free transfers.

Over the years we’ve faced ups and downs, but have always taken off again thanks to all the folks at Finnair who have demonstrated tenacity, service-mindedness and a love for their company. Our anniversary videos on YouTube tell stories from customers and staff. I was touched by the story of a surgeon who, thanks to Finnair’s help and a lucky refuelling stop, was able to save a life.

We are 90 years young and renewing ourselves

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com FINNAIR HEAD OFFICE Tietotie 11 A, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 9 81881, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland CUSTOMER FEEDBACK www.finnair.com > Information and services > After the flight or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/08, FI-01053 FINNAIR. www.finnair.com www.finnair.fi www.finnairgroup.com

every day. This year we’ve introduced Marimekko tableware and textiles, new menus on European and Asian flights, and upgraded our inflight entertainment offerings. We’re the first airline in the world to fly the brand-new Airbus 321 Sharklet aircraft. Next year we will launch full-flat beds in Business­Class on almost all of our wide-body fleet, and open a new premium lounge at Helsinki Airport.

But without you, our passengers, none of this would be possible.

PS Finnair has just achieved a position of leadership in the Carbon Disclosure Project, the world’s only global climate change reporting system.

NOVEMBER 2013 24

14

18

TEA TIME IN SINGAPORE

24

MEET FINNAIR’S TRAVELLERS

30

TOP 5: COPENHAGEN DINING

32

LOCAL FOOD TAKES OFF IN HELSINKI

44

PRAGUE BY THE PINT

50

A RELIGIOUS SPECTACLE IN INDIA

60

NORTHERN FINLAND’S COOLEST HOTELS

68

MANNERHEIM’S SILK ROAD LEGACY

Varied tea cultures reflect the city’s diversity

We spend a day at Helsinki Airport

The Danish capital’s best affordable culinary finds

Creative chefs and food co-ops take inspiration from nature

Microbreweries uphold beer traditions in the Czech capital

Kumbh Mela is full of sounds, crowds and characters

Hotels lure travellers with igloos, snow saunas and more

The Finnish historical legend rode through Russia and China

30 XX

TRAVEL COLUMNS 8

10

12

14

16

NEWS

WELLBEING

OUTDOORS

DESTINATION

CULTURE

Award-winning Finnair

Vitamin D myths and facts

Floating on the icy sea

A comics tour of Brussels

Sofi Oksanen’s new play

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NOVEMBER 2013

IN THIS ISSUE

50

Istanbul, p. 6 Kemi, p. 12 Brussels, p. 14 Helsinki, p. 16, 32 Singapore, p. 18 Copenhagen, p. 30 Prague, p. 44 Allahabad, p. 50 Finnish Lapland, p. 60

REGULARS

60 6

TRAVEL MOMENT

22

ALEXANDER STUBB

42

SIXTEN KORKMAN

65

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

80

FINLAND IN FIGURES

18

32

FLYING FINNAIR

ON THE COVER: FINNAIR’S 90TH ANNIVERSARY POSTER BY ERIK BRUUN

New border crossings

82

Before and during the flight

83

In-flight entertainment

85

Helsinki Airport

86

Maps and destinations

88

Corporate responsibility

92

Fleet

94

Frequent flyer benefits

95

Chef & Sommelier NOVEMBER 2013

BLUE WINGS

5

TRAVEL MOMENT

BY TIMO SANTALA

THE ART OF DOUGH KARAKÖY GÜLLÜOĞLU has been producing Istanbul’s freshest baklava, a sweet traditional pastry, since 1949. The head of the factory, Nadir Güllü, keeps up the family tradition by supervising the production and making the finest pistachio baklava him-

self. The dough has to be thin enough to see through in order to fit 40 layers on a single piece.

“When you bite the crispy surface and hear that certain crunch, that’s when you know you’re eating proper baklava,” says Güllü.

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TRAVEL NEWS

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

TOPFLIGHT IN EUROPE

F

FINNAIR

innair was named Best European Airline at the 24th annual TTG Travel Awards in October.

Organised by TTG (Travel Trade Gazette) in the Asia-Pacific region, the award was given by readers of the Asian editions of the digital travel trade magazine. Several factors were considered, including punctuality, service and hasslefree transfers.

“We are extremely heartened by this recognition, and very grateful to receive this award,” says Finnair’s chief commercial officer Allister Paterson.

Finnair specialises in traffic between Asia and Europe, serving 13 cities in Asia and more than 60 European destinations via its Helsinki hub. The only carrier in Northern Europe with a four-star Skytrax rating, Finnair also routinely ranks in the top tier of global punctuality surveys.

NEW FINNAIR LOUNGE DESIGNED by Helsinki-based dSign Vertti Kivi & Co, the new Finnair Premium Lounge at Helsinki Airport will open in spring 2014 next to the Finnair Lounge near Gate 36 in the non-Schengen area. The Premium Lounge will be available to Finnair Plus Platinum and Gold members and their guests, as well as frequent flyer cardholders with equivalent status at a fellow oneworld airline.

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ALLIANCE EXPANDS

THE WORLD IN A GLASS

BRAZIL’S leading carrier TAM Airlines joins the oneworld alliance on March 31, 2014. Latin America’s biggest economy, Brazil also represents the largest market for air travel in the region.

LAN Colombia becomes an affiliate member of oneworld offering the alliance’s full range of services and benefits from the start of operations on October 1.

Malaysia Airlines joined the alliance earlier this year and Qatar Airways joins later this month.

With its new members, oneworld will soon serve almost 1,000 airports in more than 150 countries.

“WE HAVE AN UPDATED selection of wines from around the world that has been chosen for our customers around the world,” says Mika Vanne, Finnair’s retail sales manager, Wine & Spirits.

Vanne is responsible for Finnair’s onboard tipples as well as the wine and spirits sold via the Pre-order In-flight Shop, the Finnair lounges and the Finnair Tax-Free Shop at Helsinki Airport.

“Our award-winning selection of reds, whites, Champagnes and spirits include a range of choices from prestige brands such as Châteaux Margaux and Dom Pérignon to less expensive but good-quality-for-money wines,” says Vanne. New additions to the list include Ulysse Collin Champagne, one of the best champagnes you’ve never heard of.

ISTOCKPHOTO

FINNAIR.COM

TRAVEL HEALTH

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY KATJA PANTZAR

THE VITAMIN

S

DEBATE

ISTOCKPHOTO

unlight, a natural source of vitamin D, is a precious commodity in regions with long, dark winters.

People living in the Nordic countries do not get enough vitamin D during the winter, which is also when the peak of the influenza period is at its highest. Studies have shown that Finns, for example, have the lowest level of vitamin D in their blood during the coldest months.

The majority of medical research currently supports the benefits of taking vitamin D supplements. However, in Finland there has been some confusion about MUCH DEBATE the efficacy of vitamin surrounds this so-called D supplements followsuper vitamin. How much is ing a series of news enough and can too much stories earlier this year be dangerous? that questioned their strength.

Internationally, a 2012 Danish Vitamin D Study based on 247,582 Copenhageners found a link between mortality and too little or too much vitamin D. Though the study did THE FACTS not examine other factors - for examVitamin D is necessary for many essenple, it’s possible that all of those who died tial functions and its deficiency can cause were terminally ill patients who were on rickets in children and osteomalacia, a a high vitamin supplement regime – it softening of the bones. In adults, it can opened the door for debate.

OFFICIAL RECOMMENDED DAILY INTAKE OF VITAMIN D 10 micrograms year-round for under two-year-olds 7.5 micrograms year-round for two to 18-year-olds 10 micrograms year-round for pregnant and breastfeeding women 7.5 micrograms for adults during the winter months if their diet doesn’t contain enough fish and dairy products that are vitamin D fortified 20 micrograms year-round for over 60-year-olds SOURCE: NATIONAL INSTITUTE FOR HEALTH AND WELFARE, THE NATIONAL NUTRITION COUNCIL AND THE FINNISH PAEDIATRIC SOCIETY

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cause bone pain and fragility and in the elderly it has been linked to osteoporosis.

“People may be unaware that the need for vitamin D can be quite individual,” says Professor Ilari Paakari from the Faculty of Medicine, University of Helsinki. It depends on many factors including age, weight and skin pigmentation.

According to Paakari, studies have shown that vitamin D participates actively in the maintenance of the immune system and thus can help prevent common colds and even influenza.

Vitamin D deficiencies have also been connected to cancer, diabetes, and degenerative diseases and infections.

“It’s possible that we’ll get clinical proof of these impacts on health in the future, since vitamin D controls the activity of about a thousand genes. However, proving the protective impact against cancer is difficult and can include ethical issues,” says Paakkari.

Research has shown that vitamin D receptors are not only in bones, but also in the intestines, kidneys and the body’s immune system.

“All grown-ups in Finland can safely take a vitamin D supplement year-round that contains the daily intake of 20 micrograms,” Paakkari adds.

NATURAL SOURCES OF VITAMIN D Rainbow trout and salmon Baltic herring Tuna Eggs Many Finnish milks and margarines are vitamin D fortified

A L L E K U S

Pohdintaa kahdella kielellä!

suomalaisuuteen!

Kuka on Alexander Stubbin suurin idoli? Mitä yhteistä on lasten kasvattamisella ja kansainvälisellä politiikalla?

Mitä on hopeapotentiaali?

Alexander Stubb pohtii uudessa, sekä suomeksi että englanniksi kirjoitetussa kolumnikokoelmassaan Suomea ja suomalaisuutta niin lapsiperheen isän, eurooppa- ja ulkomaankauppaministerin, urheilufanaatikon kuin maastaan ylpeän kansalaisenkin näkökulmasta. Osansa saavat niin Lapin lumo, suomalainen arkkitehtuuri kuin ruokakulttuurikin.

Sh. 29,90 €, 144 s.

Nyt saatavana kirjakaupoista!

TRAVEL OUTDOORS

TEXT BY RIITTA AHONEN PHOTOS BY TIMO LINDHOLM

FLOATING ON ICE

B

eyond its famed SnowCastle snow fort hotel, the northern Finnish town of Kemi should perhaps be best known for its Sampo icebreaker cruise, which was among the first of its kind in the world when it launched 25 years ago.

In the late 1980s, the city of Kemi purchased a 28-year-old retired icebreaker from the Finnish Maritime Administration and turned into a cruiser at the Turku Repair Yard. Teak, brass and light fixtures were added to bring a touch of luxury to its industrial interior, and a restaurant was constructed on the upper deck. The Sampo embarked on its first cruise in April of 1988.

The cruise, organised several times weekly, takes off from the port of Ajos roughly 11 kilometres from Kemi’s centre and heads into the Gulf of Bothnia. Throughout the journey on Europe’s largest ice field, one can listen to the thick ice hitting

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the hull of the vessel and splitting. And when the ship pauses amidst the silent sea, the most memorable part of the trip begins: guests have the opportunity to zip on impermeable survival suits and float amidst the ice blocks in the silent, frozen sea. A lunch of hot soup is included, and a three-course menu is available at an additional charge.

The cruise season begins before Christmas and ends in April. The landscape changes daily: from December to January there are just a few hours of daylight in the polar night. Sometimes the cruise travels through flurry snowfalls or piercing strong winds, and sometimes the temperature drops to minus 20 to 30 degrees Celsius. On a clear and cold night a few times a month, the northern lights appear. In springtime, the ice can be as thick as 75 to 95 centimetres.

To date, about 200,000 people from dozens of countries have boarded the cruise. The town of Kemi is less famous than the Santa Claus-oriented Rovaniemi and entrepreneurship centre of Oulu, but active promotion is helping spread the message. Local tourism representatives participate in international workshops and expos, and virtual word-of-mouth has had an impact as well.

“Clients are finding us more and more online and via social media,” says Kemi Tourism PR officer Titta Vuorinen.

In addition to regularly scheduled cruises, charter cruises are available upon request and can be paired with a snowmobile or husky safari, snowshoeing, ice fishing or an overnight stay at the SnowCastle, which opens in January (snowcastle.net).

The price of a four-hour cruise is 270 euros. Reservations can be made at: WWW.VISITKEMI.FI

Journalist Riitta Ahonen is the author of Cruise Icebreaker Sampo’s 25 Years on Arctic Waters, published by Kemi Tourism in 2013.

FINNAIR’S partner Flybe flies to Kemi up to three times daily.

UUDISTUNEET COLA-MAUT NYT KAUPOISSA!

TRAVEL DESTINATION

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY NADJA SAYEJ PHOTOS BY OLIVIER VAN DE KERCHOVE AND ERIC DANHIER NAN

TRACING COMICS IN BRUSSELS

N

o other country has produced more comic artists than Belgium, where millions of comic strip albums are printed each year and the art form is held in high regard. There are roughly ten comic schools pumping out new artists each year, not to mention the

annual festivals, art galleries, comic book shops and themed restaurants. While New York is the birthplace of comics, Brussels is referred to as the official comic capital.

Characters like Tintin and the Smurfs have stepped off the page and onto the walls of Brussels, in what began as collaboration between the city and the Belgian Comic Strip Center: the comic strip walk. The first ten murals of characters were splashed onto buildings in the central district in 1991. The project has grown to include 43 murals with more being added annually.

The walk traverses through the

19 districts of Brussels, from Saint-Gilles to the Grand Sablon.

The mural on Rue du Marché au Charbon­is a symbol of the entire route, depicting the Belgian comic character Broussaille walking on air, surrounded by birds, with his friend Catherine.

“It’s my favourite comic mural,” says Willem De Graeve, director of the Belgian Comic Strip Center. “They invite ­people on a walk through the city.”

Belgian cartoonist Hergé was known to sneak in scenes of Brussels within the pages of Tintin. Here you can recognize the surrounding city in the murals. In the neighbourhood of Saint-Géry, the local comic character Nero balances on a treetop in a composition by Marc Sleen. On the bank robbery mural, Lucky Luke takes on his villains in the art district (you can spot the national Belgian monument, the Atomium, in the background).

A celebration is up near the famous fireworks shop, the Van Cleemput house.

In the Olivier Rameau comic mural, colourful fireworks explode as Rameau and his love touch fingertips.

“Some could say its disrespectful touching fingers like Michelangelo, but in comics, everything is allowed,” says Marc Marghem, a cultural journalist based in Brussels.

For a map of the comics walk, see: BRUSSELSCOMICS.COM/EN/ ROUTE_PARCOURS.CFM

FINNAIR flies nonstop to Brussels up to four times daily.

The annual Brussels Comics Festival happens every September.

MUST-SEES IN THE COMICS CAPITAL EAT The Comics Café (Place du Grand Sablon 8) offers local flavours from artisan beer to pommes and chocolate-drenched waffles with ice cream. They also have a superb collection of comic art on the second floor and a multilingual comics collection.

COMICSCAFE.BE

The Blake and Mortimer comic strip mural by Edgar P. Jacobs is found on Rue du Houblon.

SLEEP The Hotel Saint-Géry (Place Saint- Géry 29), close to the core of the city, offers 24 rooms all designed by a different artist. The deep bathtubs and brunch waffles are also irresistible.

HOTELSTGERY.COM

EXPLORE The Belgian Comic Strip Center (Rue des Sables 20) has been the home to all things comics since first opening its art nouveau doors in 1989. They offer rotating exhibitions and a library with thousands of titles.

COMICSCENTER.NET

DIRECTLY ACROSS the street is the Marc Sleen Museum (Rue des Sables 33) which pays homage to one of the country’s most beloved comic artists, best known for the infamous Nero.

MARC-SLEEN.BE

THE MOOF Museum of Original Figurines (Rue du Marché aux Herbes 116) shows the transformation from comic strips to silver screen. Among the treats on display are thousands of comic figurines from over 15 countries and old animation cells. A Smurf store is located next door.

MOOF-MUSEUM.BE

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TRAVEL CULTURE

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY LAURA PALOTIE

TONI HÄRKÖNEN

DOVES TAKE THE STAGE

F

inland’s best-known contemporary author Sofi Oksanen has explored Estonia’s 20th-century history in 2003’s Stalin’s Cows and 2007’s Purge, which has been translated into 38 languages and won several literary awards.

The stage version of her most recent novel, When the Doves Disappeared, premieres at the Finnish National Theatre this month.

HELSINKI HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH ETNOSOI (November 6–10) is a festival devoted to musical diversity. This year’s highlights include a concert by UK folk musician Sam Lee, whose sound is drawn from the musical heritage of travelling gypsy communities, and a show paying tribute to Sami artist NilsAslak Valkeapää (1943−2001).

ETNOSOI.FI

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The work will be performed in Finnish and surtitled in English and Estonian.

Theatre isn’t a new realm for Oksanen.

She studied dramaturgy at Helsinki’s Theatre Academy and wrote the stage version of Purge, which was a play before Oksanen turned it into a novel. We spoke with Oksanen about adapting When the Doves Disappeared onto the stage.

BW: Did you face any particular challenges in writing the stage version?

Oksanen: The main character, Edgar Parts, has a problematic profession: he’s an author, or an anti-author in the sense that he writes propaganda based on instructions from the KGB. The written language of propaganda is difficult to show onstage, so in the play I made him a photographer and director. Text and images were both essential elements of propaganda in the Soviet Union and in national socialist Germany, both of which occupied Estonia.

BW: How would you describe the Finnish theatrical tradition?

Oksanen: Finland is a young country in terms of theatre and literature, so we aren’t weighed down by the traditions of large language areas. There are plenty of female authors, directors and playwrights. Many of the cornerstones of Finnish theatre are written by women including Minna Canth, Maria Jotuni and Hella Wuolijoki. Finland

A PHOTO EXHIBITION entitled Rasvaletti (Brylcreem) takes a peek at 1950s Helsinki. The decade saw the dawn of suburbia, industrial growth and an improved standard of living. The 1952 summer Olympics were held here, and words like Coca-Cola and rock 'n' roll entered the lexicon. Opens November 13.

WWW.HEL.FI/HKI/MUSEO/ EN/ETUSIVU

is also democratic in this realm – going to the theatre is a popular pastime, and not tied to socioeconomic status.

BW: How close has your involvement been in the production of Doves?

Oksanen: Set designer Karmo Mende staged one of my favourite versions of Purge in the town of Seinäjoki. Video designer Mikko Ijäs worked on one of my previous productions, Too Short Skirt – Tales from the Kitchen. Director Raila Leppäkoski gave me feedback while I was still writing, and composer Maija Kaunismaa, whom I have worked with several times before, was one of the first people to read the novel. I’ve given the team the opportunity to work in peace; I don’t want to be constantly looking over their shoulders.

BW: Doves is set in Tallinn, and a map to its central locations is available.

What are your essential Tallinn spots?

Oksanen: Patarei prison, which has witnessed Estonia’s stormy history, is open to the public. Everything has been left the way it was when the prison ceased operations. Because of a lack of funds, restoration has been minimal. Another key location is Freedom Square, whose name has changed through various ruling regiments.

KANSALLISTEATTERI.FI/ WHEN-THE-DOVES-DISAPPEARED

THOUSANDS OF tech entrepreneurs from northern Europe and Russia rub shoulders with investors at Slush startup conference (November 13−14).

Speakers include Skype co-founder Niklas Zennström, former Nokia CEO Jorma Ollila and Supercell CEO Ilkka Paananen.

SLUSH.ORG

Elämässä pitää olla...

glooriaa! www.gloria.fi/tilaa

A MELTING POT OF

TEA

DIVERSE SINGAPORE PROVIDES AMPLE OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING THE WORLD’S TEA CULTURES. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY PETER WELD

High tea at TWG Tea Salon, Marina Bay Sands

A

mix of Chinese, Indian, Malay, and Western people harmoniously resides and hurries past one another in Singapore. The city’s cultural diversity is also reflected in the soothing ritual of afternoon tea. And the trendiness of tea is on the rise: here “tea is the new coffee,” declared a recent Wall Street Journal headline on the popularity of tea in Singapore.

ENJOY AS THE ENGLISH Singapore was established as an East India Company trading post in 1819, so an English-style high tea is an appropriate reminder of the city’s British influences. High tea is served at elegant establishments all around town, from the Tiffin Room at the venerable Raffles Hotel to the Equinox Restaurant, perched on the 70th floor of Swissôtel The Stamford. Generally it’s available from 3:30 to 5 pm in the afternoon, but on busy weekends some restaurants start as early as 11:30 am.

And it’s a whole lot more than just tea. The Rose Veranda at the Shangri-La Hotel, for example, offers a buffet that includes sushi, dim sum, laksa (spicy noodle soup), and plenty more.

After you’ve sampled a little of everything, it’s time to move on to dessert: tiramisu, fruit tarts, cheesecake, fruit dipped in a fountain of chocolate – there won’t be much room for dinner after tea.

TEA CULTURE HERE IS AS DIVERSE AS THE CITY ITSELF.

A mug of teh tarik is a great way to cool down.

ASIAN AROMAS The Chinese, who make up nearly three-fourths of Singapore’s population, have long enjoyed their tea in a much simpler fashion, and one with far fewer calories. At the edge of Singapore’s Chinatown district, two establishments, Tea Chapter and Yixing Xuan Teahouse, provide a splendid introduction to Chinese-style tea-drinking. At Yixing Xuan Teahouse, proprietor Vincent Low gives visitors a scholarly overview of the four major varieties of tea. He is quick to note, though, that all four come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis; the differences arise from the ways in which the plants are picked and processed.

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ADDRESSES TIFFIN ROOM Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road RAFFLES.COM/SINGAPORE/ DINING/TIFFIN-ROOM

EQUINOX RESTAURANT Swissôtel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Rd SWISSOTEL.COM/HOTELS/ SINGAPORE-STAMFORD

THE ROSE VERANDA Shangri-La Hotel, 22 Orange Grove Road SHANGRI-LA.COM/SINGAPORE/SHANGRILA/DINING/ BARS-LOUNGES/ ROSE-VERANDA

TEA CHAPTER 9 Neil Road TEACHAPTER.COM

YIXING XUAN TEAHOUSE 30 Tanjong Pagar Road YIXINGXUAN-TEAHOUSE. COM

CHAI TIME AXA Tower, 8 Shenton Way CHAITIME.COM, FACEBOOK. COM/CHAIHOLICS

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Low boils water and uses it to sterilize several tiny cups, each no bigger than a shot glass. Into these he pours a pale yellow Oolong tea. The cups are made so small, he explains, to encourage people to enjoy it slowly; after all, the real point here is not to guzzle large quantities of tea but to relax and chat with your companions, be they relatives, friends, or strangers. Or even royalty: around the corner at Tea Chapter, the elegantlyfurnished rooms feature a framed photo of Queen Elizabeth II, who drank a tea called Imperial Golden Cassia when she and Prince Philip visited Singapore.

as “Railway Platform Chai” and “Punjabi Dhaba Chai,” but there are also less traditional items on the menu, including iced chocolate chai.

The last of Singapore’s four major kinds of tea is teh tarik. The Malay name literally translates to “pulled tea,” a reference to the way it’s made. Straight tea is put into a tin cup, together with liberal amounts of condensed milk and sugar.

All of that is poured into a second tin cup and then back into the first.

This process is repeated several times, the mixture being poured from a greater height each time; by the end, one cup might be a metre or more above the other, with the long stream of liquid between the two looking like it’s being pulled down through the air. Or that’s the usual explanation, at least.

Whatever the origin of the name, teh tarik can be found at tea stalls all over Singapore. It’s not a high-brow drink, just a frothy cup of refreshment. The repeated back-and-forth between the two cups creates a big head of foam on top, and it helps to cool the tea to a drinkable temperature.

Healthy? Maybe not. Cheap? Yes. Tasty?

Definitely.

Besides these four indigenous forms of tea, nowadays you can find many other kinds in Singapore: Moroccan mint tea, Japanese maccha, even that silly tapioca­ drink known as “bubble tea.” With such a wealth of options available, pretty soon “Singapore” might have to be spelled with a T. l

SMALL CUPS ENCOURAGE PATRONS TO SIP SLOWLY.

ADDICTIVE CHAI Low says that any form of tea is healthy − as long as you don’t add milk or sugar to it. But don’t tell that to Indians, who add plenty of both. To them, it’s chai, and it’s about as essential as water. Seemingly around every corner in India you can find a chai dhaba, a little stall where hundreds of cups of sweet, milky tea are brewed every day.

According to entrepreneur Jerry Singh, Singapore’s chai lovers are not so well catered to. That’s why last year he opened Chai Time, a café dedicated to chai, in the city’s financial district.

A lawyer by training, Singh was wrapping up a business trip to Mumbai when he decided to spend his last few rupees on some chai in the airport. Soon he was hooked. Now he describes himself as a “chaiholic” and waxes eloquent about the spices with which chai can be infused: cardamom, ginger, fennel, saffron, cumin; the list goes on. Chai Time’s menu has a range of offerings with such intriguing names

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop daily to Singapore.

An elegant oolong is served at Tea Chapter.

At the Shangri-La Hotel’s Rose Veranda, high tea includes sushi.

Yixing Xuan Teahouse sells a fine selection of teapots.

Equinox Restaurant. offers scrumptious desserts.

Some tea comes in loose leaf form, but these teas are sold as bricks.

EUROPEAN VOICES

BY ALEXANDER STUBB

PHOTO BY SUSANNA KEKKONEN

No sweat!

T

his might sound a bit odd coming from an exercise freak like me, but I don’t think you need to sweat to stay in shape or feel good.

This summer I read Arto Pesola’s book, Luomuliikunnan Vallankumous, “The Revolution of Everyday Exercise.”

His thesis is simple: we need to get our butts off the chair if we want to live a more healthy life. Disclamer: don’t take this literally when the “fasten your seatbelt” -sign is on.

In today’s world we exercise more and eat less than ever before. Yet we seem to put on weight and end up with a whole bunch of self-inflicted diseases, often related to an unhealthy lifestyle.

The reason is that we do not move about enough in our day-to-day lives. Our ancestors walked more, did more physical labour and consequently spent much less time sitting. Nowadays we end up being rather passive − driving even the shortest of distances and taking the elevator and escalator whenever possible.

Pesola argues that we have three basic enemies: the chair, the computer and the TV. Studies show that, on average, we spend about nine hours each day in a sitting position, and seven hours lying down.

A horizontal sleeping position is of course not bad, but when we sit, virtually no muscle needs activation. Our spine becomes passive and our shoulders slouch. There is no need to use your feet.

Sitting and writing, chair and bottom, go hand in hand. Yes, I am writing this column sitting down. I would love to simultaneously walk and write, but I have yet to find a gadget that

would attach my iPad and key pad comfortably around my neck. Any tips?

Worst of all, your average Scandinavian spends a whooping three hours on the couch in front of the TV each day.

Talk about a passive body and mind!

WHAT SHOULD WE DO to tackle the problem? In his book Pesola gives many practical and sensible tips. First of all, try to walk or bike to work when you get a chance. Make an effort. It’s worth it. You know how good it feels to arrive at work refreshed after a morning oxygen rush.

Secondly, use the stairs instead of an elevator or escalator. And this is not a statement against Finnish elevator giant Kone. It is simply common sense. It’s useful to get your heart rate up, lungs pumping some air and legs moving.

Thirdly, stand up! Try having some meetings standing up, or even while walking outside. It makes even the most boring meeting at least marginally fun.

These three simple tips should get you going. The long-term benefits are self-evident: our bodies need to keep moving and stay active. In the short term, you will find yourself much more energetic than ever before.

You do not have to be a Lycrawearing triathlete like yours truly in order to feel good. You can get a lot more out of life with a little bit of effort. All it takes is a step in the right direction. I mean that literally. And there’s no better time of the year to start moving than the autumn. Enjoy the crisp, fresh air and nature. l Alexander Stubb is Finland’s minister for European Affairs and Foreign Trade. His Blue Wings columns from 2009 to 2013 have been compiled into a book: The Power of Sisu − Stories About Finland. It is available at Helsinki Airport and bookstores in town.

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NOVEMBER 2013

HANDMADE

IN FINLAND

WITH STYLE & SMILE.

Since the 1960’s cheerful colours have brought forward the unique frame shape and character of the jopo. Today we have it in red, blue, violet, fuchsia, army green, turquoise, lime and black – all made in Finland. So what’s Your favourite? www.jopobikes.com

A DAY AT HELSINKI AIRPORT TRAVELLERS ARE A CRUCIAL PART OF FINNAIR’S 90YEAR STORY. AS PART OF OUR BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION, WE TURNED THE SPOTLIGHT ON PASSENGERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD DURING AN ORDINARY DAY AT HELSINKI AIRPORT. TEXT BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

24 BLUE WINGS

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PHOTOS BY TUOMAS KOLEHMAINEN

F

innair is celebrating a big birthday this year.

With 8.8 million passengers flying with blue and white wings in 2012, and 2013 starting off with five per cent growth, the airline seems to be surging in its mature age. Asian traffic accounts for about one-fifth of Finnair’s customer base today.

On the busiest days of the week, up to 30,000 people travel with Finnair via Helsinki to various corners of the world. In fact, the airline’s customers make up the bulk of the 40,000 people that pass through Finnair’s hub every day.

Yet Finland’s biggest airport is still pleasantly spacious. It only gets busy in the morning from 6 am to 9 am, and then again during the afternoon flight wave, from 2 pm to 6 pm. That’s when Finnair’s long-haul Asian flights arrive from places like Tokyo and Chongqing.

In honour of Finnair’s 90th anniversary, Blue Wings descended upon the Helsinki Airport on a sunny Tuesday to chat with some of these passengers. After all, without them − whether newbies or frequent flyers − there would be no anniversary festivities.

R: ASSENGE FINNAIR P 5 2 , rg e zb ert Stefanie H t a d e Time spott port: Helsinki Air

6:30 AM

WHERE: rminal chengen te The Non-S : M FRO FLYING IN Singapore) ia (v y e Sydn en : Copenhag FLYING TO at 7:35 am

SURPRISING MUM For Stefanie Hertzberg, today is a day of firsts: the first time flying with Finnair and the first time making a surprise visit back home to Sweden. The recent accounting and marketing graduate lives in Australia.

Hertzberg says she is mostly looking forward to seeing her family’s reactions at home in Gothenburg. “Nobody knows I’m coming,” she tells us.

Hertzberg has flown from Sydney to Singapore with British Airways and from Singapore to Helsinki with Finland’s national airline (she complimented Finnair’s inflight meal: beef with rice and a frittata). Next she has a flight to catch for Copenhagen, Denmark, from where she is going to head to Gothenburg by land. Hertzberg plans to spend two weeks in Sweden and one in Croatia before returning Down Under.

Though she has no particular reason for keeping her visit a secret until her arrival, “I’ve always wanted to do this,” she says with a smile.

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FINNAIR PASSEN GERS: Imre Eikevoll Lin d, 13 Sivert Eikevoll Lin d, 11 Robert Lind, 54 Henriette Eikevol l, 40 Time spotted at Helsinki Airport:

6:45 AM

WHERE: The Non-Schengen terminal FLYING IN FROM : Bali (via Singapore) FLYING TO: Gothen burg at 9:30 am

WINDING DOWN FROM A BALI VACATION When the Eikevoll-Lind family disembarks from their Singapore flight, the parents and their two children seem to be gleaming like the sun outside. With tans on their faces and a bongo drum in tow, the Norwegians are clearly coming back from a relaxing holiday.

“We spent 24 days in Bali,” explains father Robert Lind. The four are now on their way back home to Norway’s Porsgrunn via Gothenburg, Sweden.

The highlights of the all-inclusive stay in Nusa Dua included snorkelling and elephant spotting. The boys Imre and Sivert say they enjoyed swimming and drinking unlimited banana juice.

Activities are important when travelling with teenagers, says Robert Eikevoll-Lind. To avoid fights, “the most important thing is that things are happening.”

The family flew with Finnair to and from Indonesia, aside from the Bali-Singapore leg that was operated by Garuda Indonesia.

The long flights went quickly and smoothly on Finnair’s new Airbus fleet.

The beginning of the trip was slightly stressful, however, as there was a one-hour delay on the Gothenburg-Helsinki leg.

Luckily the small aircraft made it to Helsinki in time for the Eikevoll-Linds to catch their onward flight.

YET ANOTHER HELSINKI TRANSFER It’s just 7 am in Helsinki, but Anson Chan is looking well rested as he glances at the departures screen through his black-rimmed eyeglasses.

The real estate investor has flown in overnight from his hometown of Hong Kong, in Business Class as usual, and will be continuing to Manchester, UK at 8:25 am for a four-day trip.

Aside from meetings in Manchester and London, Chan plans to attend a football match in Edinburgh. Flying in and out of Asia every month, the busy man is no stranger to the Helsinki Airport. “It’s a convenient transit point to cities in Europe that have no direct flights [to Asia],” he says.

Chan particularly enjoys Finnair’s Business Class, ranking it as competi-

tive price-wise. “Everything works,” he says. While in the air, he likes to pass the time by watching movies.

Last autumn he got to know the airline’s home base a bit better during a one-night layover in Helsinki. “I went to a Michelin-rated restaurant and did a little Christmas shopping,” he says.

Chan says he hopes to return another time to take his nephew and niece to Lapland to visit Santa Claus.

As for his best travel tips, Chan has two recommendations: he says he always has a second set of toiletries readily packed for travelling, and that he usually enjoys an inflight cocktail.

“You’ll get to sleep more GER: easily,” he says with a laugh FINNAIR PASSEN 49 as he heads to his next flight.

Anson Chan, Time spotted at Helsinki Airport:

7:10 AM 26 BLUE WINGS

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WHERE: terminal The Non-Schengen : OM FR FLYING IN Hong Kong ster FLYING TO: Manche at 8.25 am

FINNAIR P ASSENGER : Justus Luo kkanen, 1 8 Time spott ed at Helsinki Air port:

3 PM

WHERE: Arrivals Hal l ARRIVING FROM: Nagoya

HOME AFTER A YEAR IN JAPAN

Time spotted at Helsinki Airport: FINNAIR PASSENGERS: Iiro Ruuskanen, 11 Patrik Jääskeläinen, 11 Aki Ruuskanen, 44 Teemu Jääskeläinen, 56

7:45 AM WHERE: Schengen terminal, Café Tori.

FLYING TO: Prague at 9:35 am

SEEKING VICTORY IN PRAGUE Sitting in Café Tori at the Schengen departures area are four guys in identical blue T-shirts: two young ones and two slightly older chaps. A quick inquiry reveals them to be 11-year-old floorball players Patrik Jääskeläinen and Iiro Ruuskanen and their “fan club:” the boys’ fathers Teemu Jääskeläinen and Aki Ruuskanen.

The shirts are the official jerseys of their floorball team, the SC Urbans from Turenki, Finland.

Travelling in a group of about 50 players and parents, the foursome is on their way to Prague for the tenth International Youth Floorball Tournament.

Iiro explains that SC Urbans have already been crowned regional champions in Finland. In Prague they will face contestants from the Czech Republic, Russia and Singapore, among other countries.

Aki says he feels confident flying with Finnair. “It’s good that it’s reliable, especially since we’re traveling with children.”

Iiro explains that the boys have prepared for the 14 international tournaments in a simple way: “by playing.”

Should the team have time for sightseeing, on the list are at least the Prague Castle and the zoo, and possibly a water park.

“It all depends on how well we do in the game,” says Teemu.

(We later find out that the SC Urbans placed first in the 12-year-old boys’ series at the tournament. Patrik Jääskeläinen was named best goalkeeper.)

It would have been hard to miss Justus Luokkanen in the Arrivals Hall. The enthusiastic high school student donning a blue blazer covered in pins, flags and signs has just returned from spending a year as a Rotary exchange student in Japan.

“It was an incredible experience. I made new friends and learned Japanese,” Luokkanen says, speaking his first words of Finnish with a slightly Japanese intonation.

The teenager says that he was a bundle of nerves when flying with Finnair to Nagoya last year: it was his first time going to Asia and his longest flight ever. Once he landed, the biggest shock was the sheer number of people everywhere.

In the end “everything went great,” he says. The fact that Luokkanen was the only non-Asian in his school helped him become fluent in Japanese quickly, although he had also studied the language in Finland beforehand.

He also got to visit Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto several times during his exchange year.

“If you travel to Japan, go with an empty bag. You’ll do a lot of shopping there,” he advises, grabbing his two big suitcases off the conveyer belt before heading off to hug his family members for the first time in a year.

FINNAIR PASS ENGERS: Shibuya Kazun ari, 41 Yae Kazunari, 38 Time spotted at Helsinki Airpor t:

FIFTH 3:20 PM HOLIDAY IN FINLAND That Shibuya and Yae are big fans of Finland becomes obvious from a quick glance. Yae is sporting a Marimekko purse with the popular Unikko (“Poppy”) design and a Moomin luggage tag. Her pink suitcase also has a Marimekko sticker glued on it.

The couple has flown in from Tokyo on a Finnair flight. The ten hours went by quickly, they say. “I was very sleepy,” says Shibuya with a chuckle.

While Yae and Shibuya apologise for their limited English, the couple quickly mention just

WHERE: Arrivals Hall ARRIVING FR OM: Tokyo

how much they enjoy spending time in Finland: this is their fifth visit. So far they have visited the country twice in September and twice in July, staying a bit less than a week each time.

“It’s a very beautiful country,” says Shibuya.

“Last year we were in Naantali and Tampere,” Yae adds.

This year the idyllic small town of Fiskars, a forest trekking trip and a couple of days in Helsinki are on the agenda. The couple is also looking to stock up on some new Iittala glassware and more Marimekko designs.

ENGERS: FINNAIR PASS isto, 13, Aurora Tuom isto, 15 Heather Tuom at d te Time spot t: Helsinki Airpor

WHERE: Arrivals Hall OM: ARRIVING FR Toronto

3:30 PM

FIRST TIME FLYING Canadian teenagers Aurora, 13, and Heather, 15, dressed in hoodies and sneakers as they wait for their luggage, look just like your everyday North American youth. But the girls’ last name, Tuomisto, reveals their Finnish roots.

It’s exactly that last name, inherited from their travel companion and father Antti, that has brought the sisters to the Far North: they will be exploring their second homeland for 15 days. This is the teens’ first trip to Finland, and the Finnair flight from Toronto to Helsinki was the first flight of Aurora’s life. But she seems unfazed.

“Flying is definitely really simple,” she says, adding that she thought she would forget something essential.

Heather is equally impressed with how well the trip went.

“I was expecting a lot bumpier of a ride,” she notes. “I didn’t even notice when we lifted off.”

The Tuomisto family’s plans for the coming two weeks will include touring Helsinki and sailing in the archipelago, as well as spending time in Antti’s old hometown of Karijoki.

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FROM CHINA TO NORWAY In the late afternoon the crowds have temporarily disappeared from the Helsinki Airport Arrivals Hall. One person remains, however: 37-year-old Xinyan Zhao of China sits on the bench next to the conveyer belt, hunched over his laptop.

Zhao is waiting for an email to arrive from his hotel in Vantaa with instructions on how to enter the non-staffed facility, his home for the night. The next day he will continue to Norway, where he is a Ph.D researcher in the city of Tønsberg. He has just spent two weeks in Hubei, China, visiting family.

Finnair has been Zhao’s airline of choice ever since the new route from Chongqing to Helsinki opened last year.

Chongqing is located about 900 kilometres from Hubei. The scholar says he has flown “several times” with Finnair during his biannual visits home. “Finnair is good: it’s a very short trip on the airplane,” he says.

“I think it’s the efficiency,” he adds in explaining why he often chooses Finnair. Between China and Norway, “it’s maybe the shortest way.”

This time his one-night layover in Finland will increase his total travel time, but Zhao doesn’t mind. He plans to spend the day roaming around the woods of Vantaa, and says that easy access to nature is his favourite thing about living in Scandinavia.

“I’m enjoying life in FINNAIR PASSEN Norway. It has lots of GER: Xinyan Z WHERE: hao, 37 forests and friendly Time spo Arrivals H tted at all people,” he adds.

Helsinki A FLYING IN irport: FROM: Chongqin g FLYING T O: Norwa y the following day at no on

4 PM

SERVICE ON AND OFF THE GROUND Finnair’s customer base continues to diversify, thanks to the airline’s focus on its Asian connections and Helsinki’s status as a gateway airport between the East and West. The airline offers direct connections to more than 70 cities around the world, including central business hubs and a number of leisure destinations. In catering to its growing transit population, Finnair is focusing on timeliness, customer service in the air and collaboration with Finland’s airport operators.

“In our marketing efforts we focus on our large route network, short distances from Helsinki, high-quality service – and our fresh, Nordic brand identity,” says Finnair’s CEO Pekka Vauramo. Asian traffic currently makes up more than 40 per cent of Finnair’s passenger traffic revenue, and part of Finnair’s personalised service is hiring cabin staff members who speak Chinese or Japanese in addition to English and Finnish.

On the ground, the airline is focusing on achieving high operational efficiency that ensures punctual arrivals and departures and smooth delivery of luggage. Finnair’s service development involves close coordination with Finavia, which operates Finland’s airports, and the Finnish Border Guard.

“We have increased Japanese service and signage in recent years, for example,” Vauramo says. “Finavia is also investing in big developments at the airport; the most visible new improvements on Finnair’s part will be the new tax-free shop and revamped lounges.”

-Laura Palotie

NOVEMBER 2013

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COPENHAGEN DINING

1

AAMANNS ETABLISSEMENT This rustic-meets-urban gem has revolutionised the Danish smørrebrod (rye bread open sandwich) with unique uses of free-range meat and produce from Danish farmers. Though technically lacking a Bib Gourmand, everything is priced right. Kids love the bite-sized morsels, and adults enjoy the home-brewed snaps flavoured with sea buckthorn and mugwort.

They’ve already opened a sister restaurant in Tribeca, NYC. At Øster Farimagsgade 12, Five courses 375 Danish Krone (50 euros).

AAMANNS.DK

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Copenhagen up to four times daily.

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TOP

COPENHAGEN DINING

COPENHAGEN’S FAMED NOMA HAS THE PLANET’S LONGEST WAITING LIST AND POSSIBLY ITS STEEPEST PRICES. BUT THE DANISH CAPITAL ISN’T ALL ABOUT HAUTE CUISINE, AS THESE FIVE OTHER HERALDED SPOTS PROVE. MICHELIN HAS AWARDED ALL BUT ONE A BIB GOURMAND, DENOTING VALUE FOR MONEY. TEXT BY ROGER NORUM

2

KØDBYENS FISKEBAR Opened by former Noma sommelier Anders Selmer, this butchery-chic spot (at Flæsketorvet 100) is the only fishbar in the post-industrial meat packing district of Kødbyen. Dishes such as Jutland trout tartare and langoustine are adorned with pearl barley, pickled onion, mustard or seaweed. The changing menu includes local caviar and oysters – either from Normandy, Cornwall or nearby Limfjord. The place turns into a dance party after hours. Mains from 100 Danish krone (13 euros) to 485 krone (65 euros).

3

MARV & BEN “Marrow and Bone” (Snaregade 4) invokes the North at every turn – scallops marinated with juniper berries, apples and artichokes, or lobster with roast pear, carrot and dill, for example.

The dishes tend towards the minimalist, but locavorism is everywhere: the chef even tends a garden in northern Zealand to stock the restaurant’s herb and veggie cupboard. The excellent prices mean this gem is almost always filled to the brim. Five courses 425 Danish krone (about 53 euros).

MARVOGBEN.DK

FISKEBAREN.DK

4

ENOMANIA The husband and wife team running this Frederiksberg wine bar (at Vesterbrogade 187) concocts Copenhagen’s best Italian dishes. The homey menu includes risotto with artichokes, Italian sausage and pecorino (also try the risotto with pumpkin and balsamico). The decor features packed bookshelves and specials written on chalkboards. The great wines start from an unheardof 35 Danish krone (about five euros) per glass. Four courses 365 Danish krone (49 euros).

ENOMANIA.DK

5

RETOUR This minimalist French-Italian bistro (at Tordenskjoldsgade 11) was opened by legendary steakhouse chef Rasmus Oubæk. There are white walls and white tablecloths here, but zero snobbism – just great food like lumpfish roe with smoked cheese and dill and ravioli with snails, parmesan and sage.

The bearnaise sauce is famous, and the steak frites are divine. Five courses 495 Danish krone (66 euros).

RETOUR.DK

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LIKE NUMEROUS CITIES IN EUROPE AND NORTH AMERICA, HELSINKI TOO, HAS BECOME PART OF THE LOCAL FOOD CRAZE. RESTAURANTEURS, SHOPS, MEAT PRODUCERS AND A CITYDWELLERS’ CO-UP FARM HAVE TEAMED UP ON BEHALF OF GOOD FOOD. FARMING HAS BECOME COOL. TEXT BY MINNA TAKKUNEN

PHOTOS BY VILLE PALONEN

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Chef Sasu Laukkonen picks flowers to garnish his culinary creations.

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B

etween March and November, Sasu Laukkonen’s working day often begins in a rocky patch of woods behind his apartment building in Helsinki.

“These guys here are fireweed.

You can use its shoots like asparagus, and the flowers are edible, too,” he says, holding up an herb.

Laukkonen is the founder of Chef & Sommelier, a Helsinki eatery devoted to organic and local food, which won the 2013 Finnish Restaurant of the Year award. To begin his work on the day’s menu, Laukkonen collects wild plants such as evergreen shoots, flowers, roots and berries.

Whether it’s meat, fish or plants, Laukkonen is particularly interested in utilising all of the raw material he collects or buys. Sometimes the boot of his sports car is packed with as much as 130 kilos of beef or pork that he has picked up from a local producer.

The strong flavours of wild greens have opened new worlds for Laukkonen. How many know that common polypody fern tastes like liquorice, that delicate spruce shoots taste lemony, or that the first buds of rowan trees are reminiscent of almond liqueur?

Laukkonen, who has worked as a chef for 15 years, says he is baffled by culinary professionals who say they want to serve the best food possible and then order wholesale vegetables grown far away. Chef & Sommelier does not use ingredients that are flown into Finland.

“I want to be a responsible chef,” he says, “and as a diner, I want to know what’s on my plate.” In the restaurant’s dining room, Laukkonen lets the customers know about the background of each dish – and finds receptive ears.

About 80 per cent of food consumed in Finland is already made within the country’s boundaries. Consumers’ idea of “local” varies widely, but the most commonly accepted definition is food that is grown and consumed within the same province. In the US, for example, the typical definition is produce consumed within 100 to 600 kilometres of its origin and bought directly from a farmer. In the UK, the generally accepted definition is by county.

Laukkonen says that people in Finland are increasingly interested in where their food comes from and how it is prepared. Statistics support his observation: according to a study published by the Finnish Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, the number of consumers taking local production into account when grocery shopping rose from 43 per cent to 59 per cent between 2005 and 2011. As evidenced by the rise of co-operative farms and locally oriented chefs, modern Finnish gourmet is synonymous with local nature and climate.

Puréed nettle, watercress, horseradish, chervil and wood sorrel at Chef & Sommelier restaurant.

Pine sprouts add flavour to desserts, fish dishes and drinks.

Helsinki’s historical restaurant Savoy has its own herb garden.

Healthy Finncattle cows reside at Bovik Farm.

MENUS BY SEASON When it comes to raw materials, Chef & Sommelier follows a two-season principle fitting for the long winters and short, lush summers of Finland. There’s the growth season, during which menus are designed based on what is being harvested at the moment, and the non-growth season, when dishes are based around root vegetables and preserved or dried raw materials from the harvest season. For three years, Chef & Sommelier has had its own field in nearby Sipoo as well as a test field on city-owned land.

Before discovering wild greens, Laukkonen didn’t even own a pair of rubber boots. He says he was led into the wilds by Finnish wild food specialist Sami Tallberg and British foraging guru Miles Irving. He learned what, where and when to pick, and found that even Nordic pine trees could be useful in the kitchen: in early summer, their shoots shed yellow clouds of pollen, which is suitable for eating for a few days.

Wild greens are just one element of local food.

Laukkonen hopes that students on the agriculture and restaurant sectors can begin to learn together. Chefs could start growing their own ingredients, or at least better understand the life cycle and qualities of raw materials. Growing their own greens can provide a marketing advantage for restaurants: famed Helsinki establishments such as Savoy and summer restaurant NJK have treated guests to offerings from their own

GROWING THEIR OWN GREENS CAN PROVIDE A MARKETING ADVANTAGE FOR RESTAURANTS. herb gardens. While organic and locally produced food are at the heart of a few other restaurants such as Juuri and Ask, restaurant-grown food is still a rarity.

As a sign of the growing interest in the “field-totable” principle, there are already ten urban co-operative farm projects set up by residents of various Finnish cities. One of the oldest is in Helsinki’s Herttoniemi district.

VEGGIES WITHOUT MIDDLEMENT Herttoniemi’s urban farm co-op of some 140 families has rented a one-hectare field from a private owner in Vantaa, about 30 kilometres north of central Helsinki.

The co-op is run by experts of organic production.

Having just completed its third harvest season, the project is an adapted version of the international Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) concept, which dates back several decades. The idea is that residents support a certain farmer with advance payments. They share in the risk of the harvest and get fresh, local agricultural products in return.

Membership in the Herttoniemi Food Co-operative requires an annual harvest fee of 400 euros, additional membership fees, and ten hours of monthly volunteer work. Members contribute according to their own skills, with tasks ranging from weeding and packing to communications and bookkeeping. Every Thursday there’s an evening work session. Those who are too busy to take part can financially compensate for their hours.

One of the co-op’s founders, Galina Kallio, is an Aalto University researcher who has studied various types of local food marketing models.

“In defining local food, the fact that food comes from within a certain number of kilometres is not the only relevant factor. It’s important to know how NOVEMBER 2013

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the food is produced and that the consumer has an opportunity to visit the farm. The ideal situation is that the food is ethically and ecologically produced by a small farmer, not a contract farmer tied to subsidies,” Kallio says.

The food co-op’s activities are very close to this model. It aims to practice farming that is environmentally, economically and humanly sustainable, and does not have any external funding such as farm subsidies.

“The goal is for the famers to be able to live from their work,” says Kallio.

Together with the farmers, co-op members plan the year’s crops. The harvest is divvied out once a week at several locations where members can pick up their share. Transport and packaging costs are kept to a minimum.

This year the ground was turned and fertilised by midMay. The first edibles of the year arrived in June, when lettuce and herbs popped out of the ground.

This year’s new additions were cucumbers, black salsify, chard and celery root. A recreational garden was also set up near the field, which housed berry plants and herbs. A greenhouse was built for cucumbers.

HOMEGROWN ANIMALS Preserving traditional landscapes is also a motive for organic farmers Ülle and Sebastian Nurmi, who raise native species known as Finnsheep and Eastern Finncattle in the southern coastal town of Tammisaari.

Early each summer they transport about 800 sheep and 60 cows to summer pastures on various islands off Finland’s south coast.

On the island, the sheep help to maintain the landscape. They also absorb flavours from eating a variety of plants and herbs. After the winter, the animals are thin, but during the summer they fatten up to more than 40 kilos and become ready for slaughter. Beyond the meat, their skins and wool are in demand. Most of the Nurmis’ Finncattle cows are also ferried to the archipelago for the season.

Protecting native breeds is just as important to the Nurmis as rural landscapes.

“This kind of untampered genetic resource is a national treasure,” says Sebastian.

The endangered eastern Finncattle breed, with just a few hundred surviving, are sturdy, healthy and have long lifespans: while in standard factory farming each cow is only milked for about three years, eastern Finncattle can produce milk for a decade.

Eastern Finncattle also have a distinctive flavour – as many top chefs such as Ari Ruoho of Restaurant Nokka and Marko Palovaara of Bistro O mat have noticed. Because the animal is allowed to grow up peacefully with organic methods, its meat has a higher density. Quickly-raised beef produces a lot of liquid when it is cooked, in effect boiling rather than roasting or frying. All of the beef that the Nurmis offer for sale is quickly snapped up; this has been a pleasant surprise for them.

The Nurmis plan together with chefs when and how their meat will be processed. “I’m glad that all parts of their carcasses are used,” Sebastian says.

When Sebastian arrived on the southwestern coast of Finland in the early 1990s, he was working as a fashion photographer. He bought an old farm to use as a studio, and watched as the forest began to encroach on the surrounding fields. That felt like an injustice to the generations before him who had cultivated these fields.

A budding interest in environmental management took Nurmi to an organic farming course. When he found a spouse who was ready to give up on her office job in the financial industry, the pieces of a new career and lifestyle began to fall into place.

One of the Nurmis’ customers is Eat&Joy Farmers Market, based in the Helsinki metropolitan area.

“We know exactly where the meat comes from.

The product is as good as it could be, the flavour is good and it’s from an organic, family-run farm where

PROTECTING NATIVE BREEDS AND RURAL LANDSCAPES IS IMPORTANT.

TOWN AND COUNTRY The co-op’s field is cultivated according to the biodynamic tradition, one of the oldest methods of modern organic cultivation. Its principles include crop rotation and recycling of nutrients, says horticulturist Heidi Hovi, who is responsible for planning the farm and has nearly a decade of experience in organic agriculture.

No artificial fertilisers are used at the Herttoniemi farm. The field is treated with lime and compost that includes horse manure. Hovi calculates how many nutrients the plants need to avoid burdening the surrounding waterways and air.

There are uninvited guests, of course: moths and butterflies like cabbages, while the beans have to be fenced off from hungry hares. And there is the eternal problem of taming weeds. Most of the farm work is done by hand, sometimes with help from agronomy students and international youth camp workers.

“Our key goals are to bring back quality and flavour and to preserve the landscape,” says Tuomas Heinämäki, who runs the farm along with Hovi. “It brings the city, countryside and farmers together.”

According to Hovi, politicians and researchers in Finland have recently woken up to the importance of protecting field landscapes. Recent agricultural EU policies regarding the preservation and development of local farming have spurred research on the subject.

Sustainable farming has been shown to not only preserve landscapes, but also benefit human health and social wellbeing.

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Herttoniemi’s urban co-op farm provided cucumbers for 140 member families this year.

Finnsheep help to maintain the landscapes of various islands on Finland’s southern coast.

Bovikin karjatila

MORE INFORMATION HERTTONIEMI’S URBAN CO-OPERATIVE RUOKAOSUUSKUNTA.FI/ENGLISH

RESTAURANT CHEF & SOMMELIER Huvilakatu 28, for reservations go to: CHEFETSOMMELIER.FI/EN

EAT & JOY Shop at Helsinki Airport WWW.EATANDJOY.FI/MYYMALAT

ARMAS PIKARUOKALA (“Fast food restaurant”) at Kluuvi shopping centre, Aleksanterinkatu 9

the animals have a good diet,” says shopkeeper Aki Arjola. But both shopkeeper and farmer agree that operating as a small producer in an economy controlled by gigantic retail chains and strict official supervision is difficult.

Eat&Joy sells items from more than 500 producers. While it has sales points inside several large grocery stores around the capital region, the backbone of the business is a shop at Helsinki Airport where game, reindeer, fish and jams are bestsellers. Their shop in the city centre closed recently: although local food is a rising trend, the shaky economy undermined sales.

However the popular “fast food” lunch restaurant will carry on in the same location. Beyond Helsinki Airport, Eat & Joy has three other locations in the capital region.

The biggest challenge, says Arjola, is making consumers a more involved part of the food industry.

Co-op founder Kallio agrees: “People don’t have much opportunity to influence how the food we eat is produced, or by whom.” The urban food co-op offers a chance to do just that.

WWW.ARMASPERHE.COM (in Finnish)

ÜLLE AND SEBASTIAN NURMI’S FARM, BOVIK BOVIK.FI/EN

The co-op farm inspires a love for homegrown veggies.

40 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

OPERATING AS A SMALL PRODUCER AMIDST GIGANTIC RETAIL CHAINS IS DIFFICULT. NATURE PLANS THE MENU It’s mid-August and a pile of co-op vegetables waits to be cooked in the Kallio family’s kitchen. This week’s food share box includes onions, potatoes, tomatoes, summer squash, beets, kohlrabi, cucumbers, green beans and dill. Kallio plans to make a pie with the beets and a casserole with the kohlrabi.

As a mother of two small kids, Galina Kallio appreciates the ease of the system. The ingredients that she picks up every week spark ideas for family dinners. Kallio looks for recipes online and shares ideas with other co-op members through avenues such as Facebook. The family’s two-year-old is particularly fond of creamy soups and vegetable pies.

“I hope that the kids will also learn about the origins of our food,” she says.

Eating according to the seasons feels natural. For instance carrots ripened later than usual this year due to dry weather, so they were enjoyed later in the summer. Kallio also says that organic eating has provided her with access to unusual vegetables such as kohlrabi, which is hard to find at regular grocery stores.

The harvest season is at its best in September, with about a dozen types of plants ready to be picked. The root vegetables in particular will hold the co-op’s families over until late winter, when they’ll begin preparing for next season. l

Galina Kallio prepares a pie from beetroots acquired at the co-op farm.

”Suosittelen

Vantaan Energiaa sähkön myyjänä*).

Tarpeisiimme suunniteltu hajautettu sähkönhankintasalkku mahdollistaa pitkäaikaiset toimitussopimukset.

Tämä antaa vakautta asiakassuhteillemme.”

Toimitusjohtaja Harri Laaksonen, Europak Oy on johtavia puhallettujen muovipakkausten valmistajia Suomessa.

*) Vantaan Energian asiakastyytyväisyystutkimuksen mukaan 89 % suosittelisi Vantaan Energiaa mielellään tai erittäin mielellään.

EUROPEAN VOICES

BY SIXTEN KORKMAN

The financial Leviathan

T

he financial system is at sidered “too big to fail.” Central banks may the heart of the market provide unlimited credit to weak banks, economy. It is also the and governments protect depositors and brains of the capitalist stand ready to guarantee funding and system, which helps allorecapitalise banks. cate resources efficiently As is now well understood, all of this over time and space. gives rise to what economists call “moral It provides us with the hazard.” Public subsidies and the collecpayments system, without which a modtivisation of risks encourage banks to take ern economy would be inconceivable. It excessive risks from a societal point of allows risk diversification – but also risk view. concentration.

Regulators and supervisors are tryThe financial system is huge, sophistiing to rectify the situation. New rules cated and strongly interconnected. Finanrequire banks to hold more equity capital cial market reactions are rapid, and the and liquidity buffers. There are attempts markets are volatile. to build “fire walls” The pricing of assets between highly risky is based on expectaactivities and ordiPUBLIC SUBSIDIES AND tions of the future, nary retail banking.

THE COLLECTIVISATION which – as BritThere are plans to “bail OF RISKS ENCOURAGE ish economist John in” owners and cerMaynard Keynes tain creditors of banks BANKS TO TAKE observed – is “a to cover bank losses if EXCESSIVE RISKS. flighty bird” and needed. amenable to herd Is it possible to stabehaviour. bilise banks and the Banks aim at maximising the rate of financial system more broadly? In 2009 return for their equity holders. In doing two Harvard professors, Kenneth Rogoff so they take large risks, not least by and Carmen Reinhart, published a survey being highly leveraged (in other words, of the history of financial crises in their having little equity on their balance book, This time is Different: Eight Centusheets). This makes banks vulnerable ries of Financial Folly. to credit losses and asset valuations.

Taming the financial monster is no For the owners, the potential upside small undertaking, as history illustrates. is unlimited. The downside, meanHowever, it is a precondition for overall while, is capped by the value of the macroeconomic stability, something we all equity invested. For the management, should wish for. l the upside is a big bonus, while the downside is the risk of having to look Aalto University professor Sixten for a new job.

Korkman, former director general at the The downside is also influenced Council of the EU’s Directorate for Economic by how willing the authorities are to and Social Affairs, is the author of Talous ja use all available means to help banks, Utopia (“Economy and Utopia”). because many of these banks are con-

42 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

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GETTYIMAGES

The Charles Bridge is Prague’s most famous landmark.

PRAGUE ON TAP TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SILJA KUDEL

Barbora Bohdanecka enjoys enviable fringe benefits at U Rudolfina.

Street performers run the gamut from Dixieland bands to fire-eaters in the Old Town Square.

Zlatý Klas is the well-kept secret of office workers in the Smíchov district.

A GROUP OF BREWERIES AND PUBS IN THE BOHEMIAN CAPITAL SAFEGUARD THE INTRICACIES OF CZECH BEER WHILE RESISTING SELLING OUT.

W

ho can blame the Czechs for loving their pivo (beer)? With world-famous brews such as Pilsner Urquell, Kozel, Budvar and Staropramen on tap in over 800 pubs squeezed into Prague’s city centre – often costing less than bottled water – it’s no wonder the Czechs are the world’s top beer-guzzlers, consistently topping per-capita consumption statistics.

Cheap, ubiquitous beer may sound like a godsend, but not everyone is applauding the “McDonaldisation” of Czech beer culture. Many small producers have been swallowed up by large corporations, resulting in a loss of nuance and variety that is lamented by beer connoisseurs.

But fresh flavours are now returning with the emergence independent microbreweries and “tank pubs” (tankovna) springing up all around Prague.

That’s not Soviet tanks rolling into the city as in 1968,

but giant vertical storage tanks containing something bound to delight all pilsner aficionados: unpasteurised beer.

IT’S ALIVE! Most commercial beers are pasteurised, which means they are sterilised at high temperatures to kill any traces of live yeast and other micro-organisms to extend the product’s shelf life. The downside of pasteurisation, however, is that it also kills flavour.

Prague’s tank pubs tackle this problem by serving fresh, aromatic beer straight from steel tanks rather than traditional kegs.

The difference in flavour is unmistakable from the very first sip at U Medvídků, a popular downtown tank pub that serves unpasteurised Budvar. The beer is unusually fresh, well-rounded and bursting with complex aromas not found in industrial lagers.

Unpasteurised beer is “alive” with yeast and microorganisms, yet it is safe to drink because the alcohol destroys any harmful bacteria. The live yeast is said to be a rich source of vitamin B complexes, but – who are we kidding – the reason people drink it is not for the health benefits, but for the wonderful nuances of hops and spices.

PILSNER WITH PUNCH “Beer buffs prefer tank lager because it is unadulterated by industrial processes,” says Vladimir Oliva, manager of the U Medvídků pub-restaurant and NOVEMBER 2013

BLUE WINGS

45

Ladies, savour the goodness of Pilsner Urquell.

The Lennon Peace Wall played a symbolic role in the Velvet Revolution of 1989.

U Pinkasů was one of Prague’s first tank pubs.

St Norbert’s beer acquires rich hops aromas in copper kettles at the Strahov microbrewery.

Never too early in Prague: U Pinkasů at 11 in the morning.

The six-point star is the traditional symbol of the brewer’s guild.

adjoining decade-old microbrewery, which creates its own line of specialty craft brews. These include the world’s strongest beer, X-BEER 33, a semi-dark lager packing a punch of 12.6 per cent alcohol by volume, recommended by Oliva for “slow sipping” as a digestive.

“Our goal is not to produce as much beer as possible, but to revive time-honoured recipes and Bohemian beer brewing traditions. Our beers have a fuller, stronger flavour than shop-bought beer. Patrons who appreciate quality are willing to pay extra for their pint,” says Oliva.

Judging by the hysterical laughter ringing through the beer hall, most are happily paying extra also for their seconds and thirds.

Many are tucking into generous portions of roast pork knuckle and other Bohemian grub. This time no-one is ordering the “dessert special:” beer-flavoured icecream served in tankards with a realistic frothy head.

MONKS WERE BREWING BEER HERE IN THE 1400S.

SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES Other must-see tank pubs in Prague include U Pinkasů, an oasis of rustic charm tucked around the corner of busy Wenceslas Square. U Pinkasů was among the first pubs to begin serving Pilsner Urquell 46 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

from tanks. Many others followed suit, and now tankovna pubs are scattered across the city – but you need to know where to look for them.

U Rudolfina, an old-town tank pub where few tourists venture, offers the ultimate pivnice (ale house) experience. The décor is endearingly shabby, and the cigarette smoke leaves you smelling like an ashtray, but the atmosphere and flavours are Prague at its purest.

“Tank beer has a clean flavour, and it’s not too sweet like many other Czech beers. It’s also not too alcoholic and it’s easier to digest,” says waitress Barbora Bohdanecka, downing a swig from her stein before pulling pilsners for a line of thirsty customers seated at the bar.

KEEPING THE MONKS SMILING The local resurgence in craft beers is reflected in the growing popularity of microbreweries that use ancestral recipes and locally grown malts and hops.

Inarguably the finest among them is the Strahov Monastic Brewery, voted Microbrewery of the Year for four years running by the Czech beer appreciation society. Well worth a visit if only for the fairy tale view of the Prague skyline, the brewery lures in beer lovers with a delightful malty aroma wafting enticingly across the monastery courtyard.

“Our brewery is the oldest and smallest in Prague.

There were monks brewing beer here in the 1400s. We

PRAGUE’S TOP TANK PUBS renewed the brewery and reopened in 2001,” explains manager Lukas Bakule. These days the monks from the neighbouring monastery are no longer involved in brewing, but gladly offer their services in the capacity of “quality control experts.”

The house beer – named St Norbert after the founder of the monastery – comes in 12 varieties, the most popular of which is a bottom-fermented, medium-bitter amber beer inspired by Bavarian Märzen, or “March beer.” The seasonal selection includes a smoky winter porter and a Munich-style dark lager with caramel and roast malt flavours.

“All our beers are non-filtrated, unpasteurised and made according to traditional recipes using locally grown malt from Moravia. The kick comes from the hops – it’s the herb that adds the special flavour,” says Bakule.

ALWAYS BEER TIME “We Czechs have venerable brewing traditions dating back centuries, but our heritage suffered especially during the Communist era, when most microbreweries were closed down and big beer producers began replacing malt with added sugar,” Bakule says. He adds that in 1830 there were 1,100 breweries in the Czech Republic, brewing two million hectolitres a year. By 1930 there were only 500 breweries brewing 12 million hectolitres. “The emphasis shifted from quality to quantity,” he says.

“But now locals are returning to the old microbreweries, and they are willing to pay more for a great beer and a tasty meal. The pork served in our restaurant is fed on the same malt as we use for making our beer, so the flavours complement each other.”

All 1,500 hectolitres produced annually at the Strahov brewery are consumed by its patrons. To sample it, you have to trudge up to the monastery – you can’t get it anywhere else. According to Bakule, Strahov has gotten requests to expand and export from around the world, but that the brewery wants to keep things small for quality-assurance purposes.

When asked to name the perfect occasion for enjoying a Czech beer, Bakule bursts into spontaneous laughter. “Anytime! Beer is our national drink – we drink when we’re happy or sad; any excuse will do.”

But when asked to name his favourite beer, his expression becomes solemn. “Impossible to say. I’m still hunting for it.”

And the hunt could certainly take a lifetime in the countless pubs of Prague. But who’s complaining? The fun is in the search. l FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Prague twice daily.

U PINKASŮ Allegedly Prague’s oldest pilsner pub, this quaint tankovna founded in 1843 is where the tank beer boom began. If the lamppost outside looks wonky, don’t blame the beer – it’s a Cubist design classic.

Jungmannovo náměstí 15/16 UPINKASU.COM

STRAHOV MONASTIC BREWERY Reviving ancient monastic brewing traditions, this award-winning microbrewery is the choice of pivo connoisseurs. It gets crowded by breakfast, so advance booking is recommended.

Strahovské nádvoří 301 KLASTERNI-PIVOVAR.CZ

U MEDVÍDKŮ Founded in 1466, this former medieval brewery comprises a traditional Prague pivnice, hotel, microbrewery and adjoining beer museum. Try the pork knuckle and, if you dare, beer-flavoured ice-cream.

Na Perštýně 7 UMEDVIDKU.CZ

U RUDOLFINA Loud, smoky, but undeniably authentic, this traditional old-town alehouse has escaped the gentrification of downtown Prague. Sample Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank.

Krizovnicka 10 U ZLATÉHO TYGRA A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square, “The Golder Tiger” is where former Czech president Václav Havel took Bill Clinton to see a “real Prague pub” in 1994. As the story goes, Clinton cancelled his daily jog the next morning.

Husova 228/17 UZLATEHOTYGRA.CZ

ZLATÝ KLAS Hidden away in the Smíchov industrial area, this affordable pub serves beer, goulash and pork ribs to lunching office workers. One could imagine it to be a culprit for desk napping too.

Plzeňská 9 ZLATYKLAS.CZ

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INDIA’S LARGEST RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL IS FULL OF SIGHTS, SOUNDS AND SMELLS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. TEXT BY VILLE PALONEN AND YAROSLAVA TROYNICH

PHOTOS BY VILLE PALONEN

COME TOGETHER

50 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

The massive Maha Kumbh Mela festival, held every 12 years, covers a 22-squarekilometre area on the banks of the Ganges.

This holy man, a former government clerk, has not uttered a word for more than four years.

The missing persons’ office helps tens of thousands of lost people reunite with their family members.

A

n army of naked men - there has to be at least 2,000 of them - charges towards the water at sunrise, armed with swords, spears and tridents and calling out mantras. They are wildeyed, dreadlocked, and wearing nothing but garlands around their necks and white ash rubbed on their bare skin.

They are sadhus, holy men, and behind them billows a tsunami of hollering devotees. Today is the most auspicious time to wash away sins in the holy Ganges river in northern India, and everybody wants to take a dip at the same time.

Holy men have the right of way. The hectare-sized bathing area is fenced off by a chain of whistle-blowing policemen, who try to keep the millions-strong crowd at bay. Cops push and poke foreign journalists with long bamboo sticks like cattle, and one foolhardy photographer almost gets run over by a mounted officer.

In the mayhem the police line breaks and photographers sneak into the off-limits opening. After we’ve dodged the cops, the mass of pilgrims swallows us.

The crowd squeezes and pushes from all directions like hard-core fans at a rock concert. The humid air smells of sweat. The ground, despite being covered with straws, turns into mud.

At this very moment, this remote river bank is the holiest spot in India.

A FESTIVAL OF SUPERLATIVES Kumbh Mela is India’s most legendary festival. Every three years tens of millions of Hindu pilgrims congregate in four rotating locations − Nasik, Ujjain, Haridwar and Allahabad, where it was held early this year − to celebrate, listen to religious teachings, consult holy men, and bathe. It’s believed that during the most auspicious days, when planets are perfectly aligned, the holy Ganges river can wash away sins.

Once in 12 years the massive gathering becomes colossal. The Maha Kumbh Mela festival doesn’t lack superlatives. It’s the longest running religious festival in the world and the biggest gathering of people in the history of humankind. Officials estimate that in January-February 2013 the festival area in Allahabad was

visited by 120 million people. That’s roughly the population of France and the United Kingdom combined.

Mela’s grounds cover the intersection of India’s two holiest rivers, Ganges and Yamuna. Usually the 22-square-kilometre area is nothing but wasteland, covered with floods in monsoon season. But during a festival - even the annual Magh Mela, much smaller than Maha Kumbh Mela - this makeshift town has a population of millions.

Organising such an event requires months of time and thousands of people. Roads and bridges have to be built. Visitors need electricity, firewood, toilets and drinking water. The festival area also has its own hospitals, police stations, newspapers, and courts of law.

SEA OF HUMANITY A stroll through Kumbh Mela is a baffling experience.

Colossal pontoon bridges, made of metal plates and steel containers, cross the Ganges. On the east bank a pot-holed dirt road continues towards the horizon without a single curve. Roadsides are occupied by camps with corrugated iron fences. Some look like travelling circuses with their Christmas light decorations; others have bamboo gates decorated with large swastikas (originally an ancient Hindu symbol). A cluster of stained tents under a railway bridge forms a shantytown.

At an intersection, a tiny kiosk sells soap, cookies, water, toys, bags, saris, beads and religious knickknacks. Electricity poles and fences are plastered with posters advertising gurus and swamis. On the shoulder of a road a naked sadhu lies on a bed made of thorns. Nearby, a group of leper beggars display their abscessed wounds to passers-by.

Next to an open “squatting field,” a pond spreads urine stench into the vicinity. In winter it hardly ever rains here, so the air is blurred with fine dust that blackens one’s nostrils and tickles the throat. Most visitors get respiratory symptoms, so cough syrup is a popular remedy at roadside clinics.

There’s deafening noise everywhere. Music echoes, cars and motorbikes honk, police whistle, and mobile phones ring. Thousands of loudspeakers hang from electricity poles, blasting nonstop announcements from the missing persons’ office.

LOST AND FOUND A frantic crowd swarms around the clerk’s desk. People from all directions are pushing small pieces of paper towards him. The slips contain names of wives, husbands, children and other relatives: loved ones who have gone missing.

NOVEMBER 2013

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Kumbh Mela provides a rare opportunity to meet sadhus, holy men, from all over India.

“Over the past three weeks we have helped 17, 000 people find their families”, says Umesh Chand Tiwari, the president of an NGO that runs lost people’s office. “We provide food and shelter, and let them make loudspeaker announcements in their own languages. Usually it takes a maximum of a couple of days before relatives come and pick up their lost family members.”

Prembas Baba claims he hasn’t cut his hair in 21 years.

EVERY DAY 1,000 PILGRIMS GET SEPARATED FROM THEIR FAMILIES AND RELATIVES. Many of the pilgrims don’t have cell phones or money − they might not know how to speak Hindi or even read. Travelling alone to a village on the other side of India can be an overwhelming challenge for the elderly people squatting at the lost and found office.

Suddenly a gray-haired lady rushes towards the gate and wraps her arms around a seemingly baffled man who has just walked in. She begins to weep. Onlookers smile at the reunion, but the husband appears embarrassed. He tries to explain that the couple has been separated for only half an hour: they had just arrived and got lost on their way to the main bathing area.

MELA FESTIVALS KUMBH MELA is celebrated every three years.

The location rotates between four towns: Nashik, Ujjain, Haridwar and Allahabad. The next Kumbh Mela will be held in Nashik in 2015.

EVERY 12 YEARS the festival grows into an even larger Maha Kumbh Mela. It’s always in Allahabad (the next one will happen in 2025).

SEVERAL MILLION PILGRIMS FLOOD to Allahabad during the annual Magh Mela. The festival is smaller than Kumbh Mela, but otherwise very similar. It’s held every year from mid-January until the end of February.

54 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

HOLY WATER There’s a simple trick to finding Sangam, the most auspicious bathing spot: just follow the empty water canisters. They’re sold in every street corner, and each pilgrim carries a container or two.

“We drink river water during the festival and carry it back home with a big jug,” explains Rajasingh Phakur, who has just filled ten bottles with his brother Hanuman. “If a neighbour asks, we share with him. We would never sell holy water.”

The Ganges is one of the most polluted rivers in India. Toxicity levels are sky-high, and the ancient practice of dumping half-cremated corpses into the river makes the situation even worse. Many environmental organisations and religious leaders have brought up the problem, to little effect.

“The water is not dirty,” the brothers say. “It’s only dusty.”

Around us, thousands of pilgrims seem to agree. They strip to their underwear, wade into the knee-deep water, and dip under the surface.

Mohammad Samir (left) and other stunt riders amaze crowds at Maha Kumbh Mela’s funfair.

Rajasingh and Hanuman Phakur plan to take home holy water from the Ganges river.

When the planets are perfectly aligned, the Ganges can wash away one’s sins.

On the most sacred days, the holiest men bathe first: thousands of naga (naked) sadhus rush to bathe in the Ganges.

DELHI

ALLAHABAD VARANASI

Then they slurp water from their palms and pray towards the setting sun.

Sangam means confluence. This section of the river bank (or actually a spot further from the shore) is considered divine. It’s the meeting point of three holy rivers: Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Sarasvati. Bathing here will wash away one’s sins.

EXTREME RITUALS A naked man with ash smeared on his body stands beside a roadside altar, carefully winding his genitals around a wooden stick. Some stop to watch but many move on, thinking there’s nothing unusual to see.

If bathing in the Ganges is the heart of Kumbh Mela, then the sadhus are its soul. India has millions of these men and women who are believed to be holy. Some gurus, babas or swamis have thousands of followers and resemble American TV preachers and other cult leaders.

But the majority of holy men lead a much simpler life: they meditate in remote caves or roam around the country visiting holy places.

Kumbh Mela provides a rare opportunity to meet sadhus. Many of them resemble shamans with their dreadlocks, long beards, three-prong tridents and hashish pipes. Devotees think they have a broadband connection to the spirit world.

This man is a naga (naked) sadhu. Instead of wearing clothes, Shiva-worshipping nagas apply their bodies with ash that symbolises death and reincarnation. They smoke hashish and chastise their genitals, which represent sexuality and impurity. This practice is believed to transform sexual energy into spiritual energy, and demonstrate how the spirit can overcome pain.

There are even more extreme rituals. Some sadhus vow to hold their arm in the air for years, never cut their hair, or utter a word for years.

INDIA HAS MILLIONS OF HOLY MEN AND WOMEN.

SILENT SADHU “I haven’t spoken since December 27, 2008,” a man with sparse teeth explains. “My guru will probably scold me for giving this interview.”

Communicating with a man who doesn’t speak is challenging. Fortunately he knows how to write, but forgets to scribble down his name in the notepad.

“I used to work as a clerk in the Ministry of Health,” the man writes. “But my boss didn’t like me because I was praying aloud all the time. I had to choose between a career and my faith. I quit my job and became a sadhu when I was 36. Now I live in a cave.”

He hasn’t forgotten about public service, however.

“Even though I couldn’t work as a public servant, I can help India by praying. Many problems prevail in society, but because of divine mantras India is moving on.”

Near the gate of the naga sadhu camp we pass an old man who’s holding his right hand up. The arm is nothing

GOOD TO KNOW ALLAHABAD AIRPORT serves a limited number of domestic flights.

A better connected airport is in Varanasi, 150 kilometres away.

The train from Delhi to Allahabad takes between seven and ten hours and costs 15−20 euros.

CLEARTRIP.COM IRCTC.CO.IN

MELA GROUNDS are located several kilometres outside of Allahabad town. There are no permanent buildings, so visitors sleep at tent camps.

A TYPICAL CAMP has dozens of large tents (with attached or shared bathrooms) and a canteen that serves buffet meals. All food is vegetarian, and alcohol is strictly prohibited in Mela grounds.

MANY CAMPS have their own website with a reservation system. One of the easiest accommodation options is a camp run by the Uttar Pradesh Tourism office. The cost in 2013 was roughly 50 euros per person.

UP-TOURISM.COM WWW.KUMBHMELAALLAHABAD. GOV.IN

WEATHER IN JANUARY and February is dry and dusty. Temperature in the afternoon can be up to 30 degrees Celsius and at night down to ten Celsius.

NOVEMBER 2013

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57

An annual religious festival, Magh Mela, is held every winter at the intersection of two holy rivers, Ganges and Yamuna.

Every 12 years the festival becomes Maha Kumbh Mela.

but skin and bone, and his long fingernails spiral like long apple peels.

The man’s name is Amar Bharti Baba, and he has kept his arm raised for 39 years. “It’s a flag that is raised to honour Shiva,” he told us when we interviewed him during a previous Kumbh Mela three years ago. “Once you raise it, you must keep it up.”

Now the man can’t be bothered with questions.

He’s too busy puffing away with his hashish pipe.

THE MAN HAS KEPT HIS ARM RAISED FOR 39 YEARS.

FUNFAIR CITY A wooden cauldron, ten metres deep and 20 in diametre, is trembling. Three battered Maruti cars and four ancient motorbikes chase each other around a near-vertical wall in a dizzying speed. Noise from their motors is deafening.

A rider in a beige shirt loosens his grip from handlebar. He stands up and begins to collect tips from the spectators as he zips by. After securing a handful of ten-rupee notes between his lips he defies the laws of gravity by lounging sideways on the saddle.

Welcome to Maha Kumbh Mela’s funfair.

Just a couple of kilometres from bathing areas and sadhu camps the material world unfolds. Triveni Road is lined with up-market camps with hot showers and à la carte menus, temporary shopping centres loaded with saris and jewellery, and even a couple of ATMs. Beside them a loud expo ground displays tractors and excavators. There’s a ferris wheel and a magic show, and cotton candy is served.

The rider in the beige shirt is Mohammad Samir, who has been riding a motorbike since he was 12.

It’s a family business: Samir’s uncle works at the funfair and his younger brother is a stunt rider, too. They have been at Allahabad for two months.

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This is an opportunity for the family to make some serious money. “During the busiest days we’ve had 50 five-minute shows. I haven’t even had time to bathe in the Ganges yet,” Samir says.

ONCE IN A LIFETIME The main bathing day, Mauni Amavasya Snan, is an overwhelming experience. In early hours, thousands of sadhus and devotees begin to march to Sangam, and at sunrise the place resembles a riot. The police tries to control the noisy crowds, and cleaners pile up muddy shoes that pilgrims have lost while bathing.

Half-naked, sweaty bodies push into the water from every direction.

The holy river turns murky as everybody scrubs their sins and bad karma off simultaneously. A promise of salvation is so alluring that participants are willing to risk their lives.

A chubby woman in a green sari falls, and three men manage to pull her back on her feet. She is crying, her eyes wide from panic.

India’s religious festivals are infamous for deadly stampedes. The worst accident in Kumbh Mela’s history occured in 1954, when 800 people were trampled to death. Fortunately nothing of the sort happens at the bathing area this time around, but in the evening we hear sad news: 36 people have perished in a stampede at Allahabad train station.

Officials estimate that 30 million people − more than the population of the Nordic countries combined − visit on main bathing day. It’s impossible to say how accurate the staggering number is, but standing on a fence one can see a limitless sea of people expanding out in all directions. Millions of individuals, wandering to the same place in search of salvation, become one mass. It’s humbling to be part of such a herd. l

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IN THE WILD BEYOND UNSPOILT SILENCE AND THE NORTHERN LIGHTS, LAPLAND’S HOTELS ATTRACT TRAVELLERS WITH UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS FROM SNOW SAUNAS TO GLASS IGLOOS. TEXT BY EEVA PUHAKAINEN

60 BLUE WINGS

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KIM ÖHMAN

B

eyond reindeer and Santa Claus, the northern lights are Lapland’s most famed attraction – and their most notable fan base seems to be coming from Japan.

When the Finnish Tourist Board posted an aurora borealis video on YouTube in 2012, a majority of the two million hits it generated were by Japanese users. And the number of Japanese tourists visiting Finland rose sharply in the months that followed.

The Finnish Tourism Board reports that Finnish Lapland is a popular destination for honeymoons, even weddings, among Japanese travellers. Many opt to spend the night in an ice igloo or another building with panoramic windows to observe the northern lights. According to some legends, the aurora borealis is linked to fertility; whether this provides an actual motivation for making the trip is unclear.

Beyond the northern lights, tourists from abroad are also enjoying Finnish ski resorts in increasing numbers. Particularly the number of Russian travellers continues to grow.

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A need for authentic, one-of-a-kind experiences among travellers has been reported by industry experts worldwide in recent years, and Lapland is no exception: offbeat lodgings beyond the chain hotel beat have become an essential part of enjoying Finland’s mostly uninhabited, wild north.

PRESIDENTIAL VISITS The tradition of tourism in the Finnish fells – which are baretopped, rounded hills between 400 and 1,300 metres high – is relatively young compared to that in the European Alps. With the advent of more user-friendly tents and other outdoor equipment in the 1930s, opportunities for wilderness trekking and camping brought major-scale tourism to Lapland.

The first trekking route between Hetta and Pallas in western Lapland led to the establishment of the first hotel in the fells, the Pallas Hotel, in the 1940s. The Pallas was a favourite of Urho Kekkonen, avid outdoorsman and Finland’s president from 1956 to 1982. Kekkonen’s love for Lapland is commemorated by a vast national park named after him, and tales of his visits to the region’s salmon rivers are well known among Finns. At a secluded hideaway near Rovaniemi, Kekkonen hosted heads of state such as former US president Lyndon B. Johnson and former Israeli prime minister Golda Meir.

The roots of Finnish Alpine skiing can be traced to Salla, a municipality of about 4,000 people in northeastern Finland, where the first Finnish Championships in downhill ski and slalom were held more than 70 years ago. Today it offers both racing slopes and 160 kilometres of cross-country trails, and proudly markets itself with the slogan “In the Middle of Nowhere.”

Despite their wide variety of activities, nature continues to be the main selling point for northern Finland’s resorts. Here are the region’s most unconventional accommodations.

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Kotkanpesä (“Eagle’s View”) at Iso-Syöte provides dream-like accommodations.

1

UNDER A BRANCH AND THE NORTHERN LIGHTS The Iso-Syöte Hotel ­(www. hotelli-isosyote.fi) on Finland’s southernmost fell has set itself apart with a two-storey suite that gives one the illusion of sleeping under the open sky, on a tree limb. The hotel, which opened in 1984, is located at the top of the fell, above the treeline. Syöte fell is technically not a part of Lapland because of its location below the Arctic Circle, but here too, guests can watch the northern lights from their beds.

Iso-Syöte (“Big Syöte”), and its neighbour, Pikku-Syöte (“Little Syöte”), were named Finland’s best ski resort in 2012. They are within easy driving distance from the airports of Kuusamo (about 105 kilometres), Oulu (about 160 kilometres) and Rovaniemi (about 170 kilometres). Syöte is a particular favourite among snowboarders. You can also drive a husky team or earn a reindeer-driving license here. Both Syöte resorts are built with respect for nature: the Syöte National Park has been named a Charter Area for EUROPARC’s Sustainable Tourism in Protected Areas, and has developed its own Syöte Green DQN programme to develop eco-friendly operations.

“Compared to Lapland, Syöte has a lot of trees and is very green in the summer.

ISO-SYÖTE HOTEL

KIM ÖHMAN

Syöte is Finland’s southernmost fell.

Inside a snow sauna, the temperature quickly springs from freezing to 70 degrees Celsius.

PEKKA HUOVINEN

2

WALLS OF SNOW Another arctic anomaly is the snow hotel: The Snow Castle (snowcastle.net) in the town of Kemi was built in 1996, and the Arctic SnowHotel (arcticsnowhotel.fi) near Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland, in 2009.

The owners of the Snowhotel, Heidi and Ville Haavikko, saw an ice chapel in 2007 in Jukkasjärvi, northern Sweden, and were married in a chapel of their own two years later.

“Even though we’re located close to the city, we’re far enough so that there’s no light pollution and you can see the northern lights against the dark sky,” says Ville.

Rovaniemi itself has more than ten hotels. Though many offer their own surprises and experiences, none of them have a snow sauna like the Snowhotel. The current sauna model is the product of many years of experimentation. Everything is made of snow besides the electric stove and the wooden seats.

“The temperature inside is the same as outside when the bathers step inside wearing swimsuits,” Ville explains. “When we close the door and open the lid on the

ARCTIC SNOWHOTEL

Picking berries and mushrooms is popular here,” says Juha Schroderus, head of the local booking agency. In winter, Syöte is famous for its crown snow-load landscapes.

The Eagle’s View suite puts this winter wonderland on majestic display. An old deadwood protrudes up through the living room on the lower level and into the bedroom upstairs, its branches reaching over a round bed with a panoramic view of the valley that surrounds Iso-Syöte Fell.

“WE’RE LOCATED CLOSE TO THE CITY, BUT FAR ENOUGH SO THAT THERE’S NO LIGHT POLLUTION.”

Arctic SnowHotel opened in 2009.

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KAKSLAUTTANEN

Kakslauttanen offers accommodation at dozens of glass igloos.

OTHER ACCOMMODATION TIPS TRY A KAMMI OR KOTA: Many northern hotels offer the experience of a night in a traditional home of the Sàmi, Lapland’s indigenous people. A kota is a teepee-shaped wooden hut, while a kammi is a wood-framed cabin built into the ground and covered with a combination of stones, turf or earth. At Ruka, Levi and Suomu fell, some kammis and kotas double as restaurants.

HISTORICAL HOTEL PALLAS: Located within a conservation area, the 65-year-old Lapland Hotel Pallas is protected from mass tourism. The number of beds has remained at 130. In comparison, the Levi resort has about 25,000 beds.

Visitors to Pallas can enjoy profound silence, as the nearest neighbouring building is 13 kilometres away.

LAPLANDHOTELS.COM

pre-heated stove, the temperature can easily rise within a minute to more than 70 degrees Celsius. Since the interior melts at a rate of three to five millimetres each time we use it, the inside quickly steams up so that you can only see as far as your own hand.” A snow sauna can be heated between 70 and 100 times.

Although most of the couples who marry at the ice chapel are Finns, 99 per cent of the Snowhotel’s guests are foreign – apparently Finns aren’t impressed by the idea of sleeping in a room where the temperature drops to about minus five degrees Celsius. Yet a night at the hotel is cosy enough when one dons a knit cap and nestles into a sleeping bag with a stomach full of local delicacies from the ice restaurant.

A nightcap served in an ice glass at the

ON A CLEAR DAY YOU CAN SEE 100 KILOMETRES AWAY.

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ice bar provides extra warmth. The Arctic Snowhotel opens on December 26 and closes around the end of March.

3

NICE AND ICY Igloos, too, both authentic and offering state-of-the-art comforts, are available in Lapland. At Kakslauttanen resort in Saariselkä, you can stay at one of eight igloos made of snow and ice, or one of 53 glass igloos. The place is also renowned for its sauna bathing options: Kakslauttanen boasts five old-fashioned smoke saunas, including the world’s largest of its kind, which seats up to 100 bathers.

Saariselkä Fell Village is one of Finland’s oldest ski resorts. It spreads over three municipalities, and is partly within Urho Kekkonen National Park, which is part of the EU’s Natura 2000 conservation network. The Kakslauttanen Hotel (kakslauttanen.fi) is 35 kilometres from Ivalo airport and just over ten kilometres from the Saariselkä ski resort. A nearby Christmas village offers winter visits with Santa Claus – and in summer a chance to pan for gold.

Glass igloo accommodations are also offered at Levi igloos (leviniglut.fi), located ten kilometres away from the Finland’s biggest ski resort, Levi. They are built on top of Utsuvaara, 340 metres above sea

level. The inside temperature does not drop, so sleeping bags are not necessary.

Although the four igloos are surrounded by wild nature and complete peace and quiet, it may be hard to get to sleep as there is so much to see out of the windows – sometimes the northern lights at night, and on a clear day as far as 100 kilometres away.

According to Kristiina Kylmälahti, managing director of Levi Igloos, most visitors come from Britain, Germany and different parts of Asia. Her father Tauno Mäkelä originally had the dream of bringing igloos here in order to share his favourite landscape with others.

The dream is expanding, with eight new igloos being built for this season. And although there is no restaurant atop Utsuvaara fell, you can order food or stock the refrigerator yourself. Kittilä Airport is 15 kilometres away.

Kakslauttanen’s snow igloos are open from December to the end of April, depending on the weather conditions.

Glass igloos are in use between late August and late April. Lodging in log cabins and queen suites is on offer year-round. l FINNAIR FLIES to northern Finland’s airports several times daily.

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND SEE COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

A FEAST FOR THAI MONKEYS Attracting hundreds of spectators since it started in 1989, the annual Monkey Buffet Festival serves 4,000 kilos of fruits, vegetables, cakes and egg-yolk desserts to 3,000 long-tailed macaques.

The breakfast is served on long tables at the monkeys’ residence, the temple area of Phra Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, 150 kilometres from Bangkok.

ISTOCKPHOTO

November 25 FESTIVALASIA.NET/FESTIVALS/ MONKEY-BUFFET-FESTIVAL-2013.HTML

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THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

Nordic cool in London

Taiwan on two wheels

Drama from Russia

Nights of Lights

UK-based Ja Ja Ja organises a monthly Nordic night at London’s Lexington club and puts on a two-day festival at Camden’s Roundhouse. The line-up of Scandinavian stars includes the Danish rock band Mew and Iceland’s Múm collective. Cool Nordic vibes will also be transmitted through cuisine, art exhibits and music documentaries.

The 3rd Taiwan Cycling Festival utilises Taiwan’s 3,800 kilometres of scenic bike routes. The pros compete in the King of the Mountain (KOM) Challenge on November 9, and leisure riders embark on a nine-day Formosa 900 tour.

Families go for a spin around Sun Moon Lake on Come Bike Day, November 10. A costume party is planned for November 17.

The first Winter International St Petersburg Theatre Festival brings the best contemporary plays of six European theatres, including Milan’s Piccolo Teatro, to St Petersburg. The works are performed in original languages with Russian subtitle projections.

Directed by Russian theatre heavyweight Lev Dodin, the festival also includes discussions and film screenings.

When the town of St Augustine, Florida, turns “Lights On!” in the central plaza on November 23, it’s no small feat: this is the 20th year that millions of white lights brighten up the holiday season.

Founded in 1565 by the Spaniards, St Augustine is the oldest continually occupied settlement in the US. Events include tours on a vintage car replica and a drivein movie on November 29.

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GETTYIMAGES

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

F1 finale

Athens Biennale

Finnish-Italian art

Nordic lines in Seoul

The 64th Formula One season finishes in Sao Paulo, a megalopolis that hosted its first official F1 championships 40 years ago.

The Brazilian Grand Prix is the 19th race of the season. This will be Finnish F1 hero Kimi Räikkönen’s last chance to make an impressive exit from the Lotus team before returning to Ferrari in 2014.

With 2013 hailed as the year Greece rises from the economic ashes, the 4th Athens Biennale asks “Now what?” Fittingly, its main venue is the empty former Athens Stock Exchange building.

Some answers are provided by the video installation Reaching Re-birth by British DashnDem collective and Finnish art curator Aura Seikkula.

“Intersezioni/Intersections” is a dialogue between Italian artist Claudia Peill and Finnish Kaisu Koivisto in Rome. Peill investigates the duality of identity; Koivisto explores nature, culture and technology. Their art interacts with that of sculptor Hendrik Christian Andersen, whose museum houses the exhibit.

Organised as a collaboration between institutions such as Aalto University and Korea-based Sonoann cultural organisation, “Nordic Passion: Architecture & Design from the Nordic Countries” at the Seoul Museum of Art promotes social equality, clean nature and the innovations of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland and Iceland.

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NOVEMBER 2013

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ONE OF FINLAND’S MOST MYTHOLOGIZED FIGURES IS SOLDIER, STATESMAN AND STRATEGIST CARL GUSTAV EMIL MANNERHEIM, WHO JOURNEYED THROUGH RUSSIA AND CHINA IN THE EARLY 1900S.

MAD ABOUT MANNERHEIM TEXT BY KATJA PANTZAR

PHOTO BY KIMMO VON LÜDERS / PICTORIUM

T

he life of Finnish historical legend­ Carl Gustav Emil Mannerheim (1867−1951) continues to fascinate writers around the world.

“Mannerheim was an enigmatic figure,” says Eric Enno Tamm, a Canadian journalist, writer and analyst with Estonian roots. He is the author of The Horse that Leaps Through Clouds: A Tale of Espionage, the Silk Road and the Rise of Modern China, in which Tamm retraces Mannerheim’s 1906−1908 journey from St Petersburg to Beijing.

“He was very private and a bit removed from contemporary society. He was an aristocrat at heart. Someone once called him the ‘last knight in Europe.’ His life was

HISTORICAL PAGE-TURNER The Hundred Day Winter War: Finland’s Gallant Stand Against the Soviet Army (University Press of Kansas) by American writer Gordon F. Sander brings to life the years from 1939 to 1940 with reportage from the frontlines of the Russian assault on Finland. Legendary war reporters including American Martha Gellhorn camped out at the Kämp Hotel in Helsinki to cover the Winter War in which Marshall Mannerheim played a central role. Sander has been reporting on Finland for publications including The New York Times for several decades.

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full of adventures and contradictions that people find fascinating,” adds Tamm.

Mannerheim was the commander-inchief of Finland’s defence forces during the Second World War and the sixth president of Finland (1944−46). He has been nicknamed “the father of modern Finland” for his role in keeping Finland independent during the Second World War. The thoroughfare of central Helsinki, Mannerheimintie, is named after him, and a statue of Mannerheim, which depicts him on horseback, is an iconic landmark.

Decades before his political and military achievements, Mannerheim embarked on a Silk Road trek in 1906 through Russia and China, posing as an explorer. He was actually on a fact-finding mission for the last Tsar of Russia, Nicholas II: Finland was still a Grand Principality in the Russian Empire, and Mannerheim was a colonel in the Russian Army.

“The biggest difference between our trips is speed: he travelled mostly by horse

and it took him two years,” says Tamm, who rode on horseback for five days and completed the journey by train, bus or car. “The other change is cultural. Many of the small ethnic groups that Mannerheim studied no longer exist or are on the brink of linguistic or cultural extinction. The Chinese have colonized large parts of territories that are traditionally the home of Muslims, Mongols and Tibetans,” he adds.

“Mannerheim chronicled almost every facet of Chinese modernization, including reform of the military, foreign investment, coal mining and industry, railways, education, local administration and the colonization of Tibetan, Muslim and Mongolian borderlands,” Tamm says. “The same challenges faced by the Qing Dynasty are facing the Communist Party of China today.”

At a time when the Middle Kingdom was in a state of social and economic transformation, the Imperial Court was reluctant to implement political reforms despite protest from students, journalists and other groups. Reform gave way to revolution in 1911.

According to Tamm, a similar scenario is being played out in present-day China. “The Communist Party has radically transformed the country, but continues to stonewall political reform. The party is going to find it increasingly difficult to control a society that is becoming more technologically savvy, worldly, better educated and pluralistic,” he says. l

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Uusissa lomakodeissa on tilavat parvekkeet, osassa asunnoista poreamme, takka ja viihtyisä saunaosasto. Kelotähdessä nautit oman loma-asunnon yksityisyydestä Lapin puhtaan luonnon kämmenellä, keskellä tunturikylän iltamenoja ja palveluja.

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Kiinnostuitko? Lisätietoja saat asuntomyynnistämme puh. 0800 140 150 (maksuton) • Maarit Nevalainen puh. 040 828 0063 • maarit.nevalainen@skanska.fi

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Kainuu region – one card

Все предприятия Каинуу на одной бонусной карте

SeamChip Made In Kainuu -kortilla voit liittyä kaikkien palvelua käyttävien yritysten asiakkaaksi oman valintasi mukaan. Et siis tarvitse enää erillisiä kanta-asiakaskortteja tai leimakuponkeja, vaan kaikki yrityskohtaiset edut ja palvelut ovat käytettävissä yhdellä ja samalla kortilla.

By using the SeamChip-card you are able to join as a customer of all the companies using the SeamChip-technology. There is anymore no need for separate loyalty cards, as all the benefits and services are available through the SeamChip-card.

При помощи карты «SeamChip» Вы можете стать клиентом любой участвующей в программе компании на Ваше усмотрение. Вам больше не понадобятся отдельные бонусные карты или купоны, поскольку все преимущества и услуги компаний собраны в одну карту.

Joko sinulla on kirjahylly mukanasi?

Elisa Kirja on Suomen suurin sähköisen kirjallisuuden palvelu. Yli 10 000 ääni- ja e-kirjan valikoimasta nautit helpoiten lataamalla maksuttoman Elisa Kirja -sovelluksen Android- tai Apple-laitteellesi. Saat koko on kokonaisen kirjahyllyn mukaasi yhden kirjan koossa.

Tutustumiset una -5 € valitsemastasi kirjasta Kood i: BLUEWINGS

Toimi näin: Syötä koodi BLUEWINGS valitsemasi kirjan oston vahvistussivulle kenttään Alennus- ja lahjakoodi ja klikkaa Käytä -nappia.

Lue lisää: elisa.fi/kirja Voit käyttää tutustumisedun vain kerran ja sitä ei voi yhdistää toiseen etuun tai tarjoukseen. Edun lunastaminen edellyttää palveluun rekisteröitymistä.

Kampanja voimassa toistaiseksi.

2510_EL_Kirja_BlueWings_215x140.indd 1

J Ä N N I T TÄVÄ AVA R U U S N ÄY T T E LY

16.9.2013 15.31

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E XC I T I N G S PA C E E X H I B I T I O N

5 .1 0. 2 01 3 – 23.3. 2014

M Ä Ä R Ä N PÄ Ä N Ä | FA C I N G

WWW.HE U R E KA .FI

ilmoitus

ilmoitus

Competitive advantage is not just about cutting costs It’s not just what you do but how you do it. that is what determines the outcome of any complex process. Many companies today measure their efficiency by calculating the costs of their manufacturing operations and personnel. this simple accounting often forgets quality, overall efficiency and customer satisfaction.

Cost of labor is not the only determining factor in calculating competitive advantage. In an industrial environment, the cost of labor should not be the measure of efficiency. Rather, efficiency stems from focusing on customer satisfaction while making production more intelligent. seeing the big picture with full details of the manufacturing process helps you see the problem areas, bottlenecks and their effect on production. full transparency of the manufacturing process enables better quality and traceability.this creates added value and turns the focus on quality instead of pricing.

There are many factors affecting production efficiency. few companies still trust their accounting and procurement to Excel spreadsheets. In a manufacturing environment papers and Excels are still the norm in many companies. this creates extra work, causes slowness and prevents flexibility of the manufacturing process.

–Today, flexibility, high quality and traceability are the most important competitive assets of a manufacturing company. Manufacturing operations have to become more intelligent. as a result there is an emerging trend of moving production back from low cost countries (lCC) to regions more expensive but closer to their markets, says Antti Varis,Vice President and Coo of Delta-Enterprise ltd.

Intelligent production is the key to successful manufacturing.

Delta-Enterprise is a company of committed professionals. Delta’s core is a team of engineers, proficient in manufacturing operations, making the best use of

their skills at the cutting edge of technology. they have a passion to make their clients’ business thrive.

–the common goal of our solutions is to optimize production and thus generate a competitive advantage for our customer, says antti.

Delta-Enterprise offers solutions to make their customers’ manufacturing operations more intelligent. Delta provides comprehensive technological solutions and services to improve the quality and output of manufacturing. the solutions include Industrial It systems, Manufacturing Execution systems, Machine Vision and advanced automation solutions. their customers include Metso, HKscan, Valmet automotive and outotec.

Agile methods and partnerships –Every project starts with a roadmap. this roadmap is written together with the customer. It records the goals, objectives and phases of the future project. this kind of systematic approach helps in implementing

the actual design work once both parties are clear on the goals and checkpoints of the project, antti Varis says.

Keeping clients up to date during a project is our priority. We are in constant contact with our customers throughout the project.this is a key part of DeltaEnterprise’s way of delivering projects in an agile fashion. the projects are delivered in increments, each of which are tested and improved in a real setting. this agility enables new ideas and necessary variations to be introduced to the project with minimum disruption. the customer will receive a functional system within the agreed schedule, and the business benefits can already be seen after the introduction of the first part, thus shortening the repayment time of investments.

Antti Varis Vice President, Coo oy Delta-Enterprise ltd antti.varis@d-e.fi

ilmoitus

ilmoitus

Quo vadis, johtaja? joukkojaan eteenpäin. Erityisesti tuen tarve korostuu muutostilanteissa. Esimies tarvitsee tukea omalta esimieheltään, mutta myös vertaistuki on arvokasta.

Huipulla tuulee Johtajan työtä sanotaan tuuliseksi paikaksi. Usein käy kovakin puhuri. Johtamisoppien kentällä liikkuu ja puhaltaa hyvinkin erilaisia tuulia. Ismit tulevat ja menevät. Yleensä vielä aaltoliikkeenä, sykleissä. Ne eivät kuitenkaan ole tärkeintä johtamisen kehittämisessä.

Tärkeintä on kuunnella. Ja ennen kaikkea kuulla.

Johtamistyötä on tehtävä ihmisenä ihmiselle. Kiireen ja päivittäisten tehtävien keskellä on aika ajoin syytä hetkeksi pysähtyä ja kysyä: ”Mitä sinulle kuuluu?

Kuinka voit? Miten voin auttaa sinua?”

Jokainen työntekijä on oman työnsä käytännön kysymysten ja kehittämiskohtien sekä mahdollisuuksien paras tuntija. Löytyisikö työn arjesta kysymysten lisäksi myös vastauksia ja ratkaisuja hiertäviin tai solmuun menneisiin asioihin? Tai pieniä, mutta tarpeellisia muutoksia, jotka lisäävät työn mielekkyyttä?

Ui johtamisen aallonharjalla

SuomeSSa menetetään vuosittain satoja tuhansia työvuosia ennenaikaisen eläköitymisen, sairauspoissaolojen, työtapaturmien ja alentuneen työkyvyn takia.

Tämän menetyksen suuruudeksi on arvioitu jopa 41 miljardia euroa vuodessa (lähde: Työ ja Terveys Suomessa 2012). Tämä on huikea summa.

Menetykset ovat suuria, mutta samalla niissä piilee myös suuri mahdollisuus. Millä muulla yhteiskunnan alueella on yhtä selvästi nähtävissä näin suuri kehittämispotentiaali? Prosentinkin parannus nykyiseen tilanteeseen lisäisi kansantalouden kokonaistuotantoa 400 miljoonalla eurolla.

Menetyksistä menestymiseen Osataanko Suomessa johtaa? Kyllä osataan. Suomessa on tehty johtamisen tutkimusta akateemisella tasolla noin 100 vuotta. Monet suomalaiset johtamisen tutkimuslaitokset ovat kansainvälistä huippua. Haasteena on: Miten saada työtä ja terveyttä koskeva tutkimus ja tietämys osaksi arkipäivän johtamista?

Työyhteisön hyvinvointi on sen kaikkien jäsenten vastuulla. Johtajan tehtävä on luoda jokaiselle mahdollisuudet kehittyä työssään ja käyttää osaamistaan työyhteisönsä tavoitetta edistävästi.

Epäkohtien esiin nostamisen ja niihin tarttumisen voi tehdä taitavasti tai taitamattomasti. Tällä on selkeä yhteys lopputuloksen onnistuneisuuteen. Onko otteena syytteleminen ja kyräily vai mahdollisuuksien ja uusien vuorovaikutuksen ja yhdessä tekemisen tapojen etsiminen? Tämä vaikuttaa suoraan siihen, lisääntyykö työpaikalla hyvinvointi.

Puun ja kuoren välissä Johtamistyön arkeen kuuluu myös kipeästi pistäviä piikkejä. Keskijohto jää usein ahtaalle puun ja kuoren väliin: vaatimuksia ja toiveita tulee sekä ylhäältä että alhaalta. Kuka silloin tukee esimiestä työssään?

Esimiehen oma hyvinvointi ja jaksaminen heijastuvat koko työyhteisöön. Väsynyt, ilman tukea jäävä esimies ei jaksa innostaa ja tukea alaisiaan eikä luotsata

Työelämän laadun kehittäminen, työurien pidentäminen ja tuottavuuden parantaminen vaativat niin yksityisissä yrityksissä kuin julkisella sektorillakin hyvää johtamista.

Esimiehet ja kaikki johtamisesta kiinnostuneet voivat jakaa hyvän johtamisen ja esimiestyön käytäntöjä valtakunnallisessa Johtamisverkostossa. Verkosto on virtuaalisen ja fyysisen kokoontumisen paikka, jossa voi oppia muilta ja oppia yhdessä. Meidät löydät osoitteesta www.johtamisverkosto.fi.

Johtamiseen tarvitaan lisää vuorovaikutteisuutta ja uteliaisuutta sekä meininkiä, jossa kaveria ei jätetä. Piirteitä, jotka liitämme erääseen sympaattiseen merien älykköön: delfiiniin. Siksi se on valittu Johtamisverkoston symboliksi. Liity joukkoomme, ota kaikuluotaimesi käyttöön ja ui johtamisen aallonharjalla.

Paula Risikko Sosiaali- ja terveysministeri

ECONOMIC STRUCTURE Employed persons by industry, 2nd quarter 2013

FINLAND IN FIGURES

MANUFACTURING Food prod. and textiles 13%

Construction and energy Miscellaneous services

FOREIGN TRADE 2012 EXPORTS BY PRODUCTS

BY ACTIVITY: 56,777 MEUR (per cent of total)

14%

34%

19%

Forest industry prod

Other manufactured goods 24%

8%

23%

Chemical ind prod

13%

Electric and electronics

Agriculture

5%

16%

Other industries

IMPORTS BY USE IN 2012: 59,158 MEUR (per cent of total)

Energy Capital goods

Metal and engineering products 47%

Trade and hotel

Transport and communications

MONTHLY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL IN HELSINKI 2012 MEAN MAX MIN RAINFALL AVERAGE 1971-2000

Intermediate goods

Financial and business services

16%

10%

14%

Machinery and equipment

Forest products 15%

13%

15%

Metals and metal products

Manufacturing

C C C mm

I

II

III

IV

V

VI

VII VIII

IX

X

XI

XII

52

36

38

32

37

57

63

56

76

70

58

-3,4 -6,8 0,8 4,1 10,9 13,7 17,7 16,0 12,5 6,7 4,2 -5,3 4,6 3,9 9,3 14,8 22,5 24,5 26,6 24,2 19,8 14,0 8,9 2,5 -15,9 -26,2 -14,3 -5,5 3,5 5,6 10,2 8,0 5,3 -6,2 -7,5 -16,2 80

Non-durable goods Durable consumer goods 0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%

EXPORTS AND IMPORTS (MEUR) TOTAL 2012 SWEDEN GERMANY RUSSIA USA NETHERLANDS CHINA GREAT BRITTAIN FRANCE

EXPORTS

56,777 6,283 5,238 5,688 3,580 3,561 2,961 2,885 1,689

IMPORTS

59,158 6,220 7,282 10,579 1,970 3,327 4,642 1,752 1,808

POPULATION 5.4 mil­lion, giv­ing an av­er­age den­sity of 18 people per sq. km of land area; an­nu­al ­growth ­rate 0.5%­ Life ex­pec­tan­cy: men 77.5 and women 83.4 years. As in most oth­er in­dus­tri­al coun­tries, t­ he middle-aged ­groups predominate.

Av­er­age house­hold s­ ize: 2.1 persons. 54% of the households ­live in single-family hous­es; 44% in apart­ment b ­ locks. 84.4% are urban-dwellers, ­with 1 mil­lion in the Hel­sin­ki Area, which includes Es­poo and Vantaa.

Oth­er ma­jor cit­ies in Finland in­clude Tam­pere, Tur­ku, Ou­lu and Jyväskylä.

Languages: 90% ­speak Finn­ish; 5.4% Swedish.

Religion: 78% are Lu­ther­an; 1% Orthodox.

Education: 81% of the pop­ul­a­ tion aged 25 to 64 ­have com­ plet­ed upper secondary or tertiary ed­u­ca­tion and 37% (the highest percentage in the EU countries) ­have uni­ver­sity or other tertiary qualifications.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CURRENT TRENDS IN FINLAND, SEE:

80 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

AREA 390,920 sq. kil­o­me­tres or 150,900 sq. m ­ iles, of ­which 9% is fresh water; land area is 303, 909 ­sq. kil­o­me­tres or 117,337 sq. miles. There are 188,000 lakes.

6% of the l­and is ­under cul­ti­va­tion, ­with bar­ley and ­oats the ­main crops. Fo­rests (main­ly ­pine and ­spruce) cov­er 68% of the country.

GOVERNMENT Sove­reign par­lia­men­tary re­pub­lic ­since 1917. From 1809– 1917, au­ton­om ­ ous G ­ rand D ­ uchy with­in the Rus­sian Em­pire; be­fore ­that ­part of the King­dom of Swe­den for centuries.

The pres­i­dent is elect­ed eve­r y six years. The new president of Finland, Sauli Niinistö took office in March 2012. The 200 mem­bers of Par­lia­ment are elect­ed for fouryear terms.

Finland has been a member of the European Union since January 1995.

WORKING LIFE 80% of wom­en aged 25–54 are employed outside the home.

Av­er­age month­ly earn­ings, 2nd

quarter 2013: men 3,555 euros; women 2,948 euros. Un­em­ploy­ment ­rate 7.1%, in August 2013 according to Labour Force Survey.

ECONOMY GDP 2012: 193 billion euros, the annual change in volume -0.8%.

Annual inflation rate as of August 2013: 1.2%.

Currency: Euro.

GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT PER CAPITA 2012* (EUR)

Nominal

Adjusted for Purchasing Power Standard

NORWAY 77,500 49,900 DENMARK 43,800 32,000 SWEDEN 43,000 32,800 USA 38,800 37,900 FINLAND 35,900 29,400 GERMANY 32,300 31,100 FRANCE 31,100 27,500 UK 30,500 28,400 EU27 25,600 25,600

Eurostat

Source: Statistics Finland

This is Finland at WWW.FINLAND.FI (English, Russian, Chinese, French, German, Spanish and Portuguese) News by Finnfacts at WWW.GOODNEWSFROMFINLAND.COM Findicator: WWW.FINDICATOR.FI

Tervetuloa / Välkommen/ Welcome / Bienvenue / Willkommen / Добро пожаловать / Tere tulemast / ようこそ / Bienvenido / 欢迎 / Benvenuti / Velkommen / 환영 / Witamy /

www.finnair.fi www.finnair.se www.finnair.com

www.finnair.fr

www.finnair.de

www.finnair.com/ru

www.finnair.ee www.finnair.com/jp

www.finnair.es

www.finnair.dk

www.finnair.com/cn

www.finnair.kr

www.finnair.it

www.finnair.fi/pl

Flying Finnair AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL

82

BEFORE AND DURING THE FLIGHT

83

IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

85

HELSINKI AIRPORT

86

MAPS

88

CORPORATE AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

92

FLEET

94

FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

95

NOVEMBER 2013

BLUE WINGS

81

FINNAIR INFO HOW TO USE THE AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL GATES

Place your passport with the info page face down on the reader. Please wait while your passport is being read for biographical and biometric data. When the scan is complete, the gate will open.

Enter through the gate and turn right.

Remove your glasses and hat. Look directly at the screen keeping your face visible. The camera will compare your facial image with the biometric feature scanned from your passport.

Wait until the second gate opens.

The border check for EU, EEA, and Swiss nationals is completed when the gate opens. Third country nationals must now move towards the border guard, who will check your entry stamp and mark your passport with an exit stamp.

Smooth crossings ARRIVING AND DEPARTING PASSENGERS at Helsinki Airport can use the 25 automated border control gates. Ten of these are located in the departure hall; the rest are located at arrivals. The Finnish Border Guard’s automated border control helps serve growing passenger volumes at Helsinki Airport.

EU, EEA and Swiss nationals with biometric passports can take advantage of the automated border control gates. Third country nationals, who are exempt from the visa requirement and hold a biometric passport, may also use the automated border control upon departure.

The service is available for Japanese and South Korean citizens. The automated border control is monitored by a border guard ensuring secure border crossings.

Please note that passengers travelling with an infant or wheelchair must use the manual border control line.

Have a nice journey!

Finnair in a nutshell

日本人で、ICパスポート（※）をお持ちの方 は、2012年5月から試験的に、出入国審査場におい て自動化ゲートをご利用頂けます。 ヘルシンキ空港のシェンゲンエリアから、日本に 向けて出国される際にお使い頂くことが可能です。

• Finnair is Number One in air traffic between Northern Europe and Asia.

まず、パスポートの顔写真ページを読み取りま す。該当ページを開き、読み取り機に向けて置い てください。

• In 2012, Finnair carried 8.8 million passengers.

こちらで個人情報と生体認証データを読み取りま す。

• Close to one and a half million passengers fly between Asia and Europe via Helsinki each year.

ゲートが開いたら中に入り、右を向いてくださ い。カメラで顔認証を行い、パスポートの顔写真 と照合します。

• In 2012, the number of passengers on scheduled flights totalled 8 million. Domestic travel accounted for 1.6 million passengers.

Passenger total on leisure flights was nearly 813,600.

二番目のゲートが開いたら、出入国審査官のカウ ンターにお進み下さい。パスポートの入国スタン プを確認した後、出国スタンプを押印致します。 ご協力頂きまして有難うございます。

• In 2012, Finnair transported more than 148,000 tonnes of cargo.

※ ICパスポートとは、2006年3月20日から申請受 付を開始したIC旅券、つまり冊子中央にICチップ 及び通信を行うための

• Established in 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest operating airlines.

• Finnair’s route network includes more than 50 international destinations.

アンテナを格納したカードが組み込まれているバ イオメトリック・パスポートのことです。

www.finnair.com/jp

FINNAIR INFO BEFORE THE FLIGHT

BEFORE DEPARTURE

Speed up your takeoff!

Feeling hungry?

Checking in to your Finnair flight is quick and easy.

You can save time and reduce hassle by checking in at a self-service kiosk at the airport, online or by text message.

Find out more about our check-in services at WWW.FINNAIR.COM.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Check in over the internet at your convenience, 24 hours a day, for all scheduled Finnair departures from Finland or destinations abroad (except from Ljubljana, where check-in can be completed on the airport’s own website), as well as connecting flights. Online check-in is also available for leisure flights departing from Finland. The service opens 36 hours before departure.

AUTOMATIC CHECK-IN Save time before departure and leave the check-in to us: if you haven’t completed online check-in, we will automatically take care of it for you and send your boarding pass to your mobile phone. If your flight departs in the morning, you will receive a check-in confirmation between 5 pm and 7 pm the previous evening. If your flight departs in the afternoon, you will get a confirmation approximately three hours before the flight takes off.

This service is available for Finnairoperated flights and Flybe-operated AY2000-series flights departing from most airports in Finnair network.

CHECK-IN VIA A SELF-SERVICE KIOSK To check in at an airport selfservice kiosk, all you need is your passport or your Finnair Plus membership card or credit card. Finnair check-in kiosks are available at the following airports: Helsinki, Amsterdam, Beijing, Brussels, Budapest, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Munich, Oulu, Prague, St Petersburg, Stockholm-Arlanda, Tallinn, Vienna, Warsaw and Zurich.

The kiosks at Helsinki Airport can also be used when departing on a leisure flight.

BAG DROP SERVICE If you only have carry-on baggage, proceed directly to security control. After selfservice check-in, checked baggage should be left at the Bag Drop desk within the normal check-in times.

ONLINE CHECK-IN is available for leisure flights departing from Finland, and at check-in kiosks for departures from Helsinki.

IN CASE A FLIGHT IS DELAYED OR CANCELLED, Finnair will inform you about the situation via SMS. Please make sure that you have provided Finnair with your mobile phone number. Find out more information on flight disruptions at FINNAIR.COM/FLIGHTINFO.

AS OF OCTOBER 1, 2013 Finnair will offer Economy Class customers on European scheduled flights the option to select and preorder a meal to enjoy onboard. Choose between five delicious options: a fresh salad with smoked salmon, an all-day breakfast enchilada, beef burgundy, pasta bolognese and chicken korma with rice. The price of each meal is ten euros.

We will also offer a few meals for purchase onboard at a price of 12 euros, but the availability is very limited.

Go to WWW.FINNAIR.COM and select “My Booking” 72 hours before your flight or earlier. Choose a meal, and pay using a credit card. You will get a confirmation email and an EMD receipt.

The preorder meal is an optional, chargeable service available for Economy Class customers travelling on all scheduled European flights operated by AY and on AY2000-series flights operated by BE (Flybe), with the following exceptions: flights within Finland, to/ from Baltic countries, to/from Stockholm, to/from St Petersburg and Madrid-Helsinki return flights.

NOVEMBER 2013

BLUE WINGS

83

FINNAIR INFO DURING THE FLIGHT

IN THE AIR

Welcome aboard!

SAFETY

PERKS FOR KIDS

• Safety information is presented by the cabin crew at the start of each flight. This information is also listed on the safety instruction card in your seat pocket.

• Children are offered puzzles or colouring books on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights.

• Safety belts must remain fastened when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is on. For safety reasons we recommend keeping them fastened even when the sign has been switched off.

• Passengers may use MP3, CD or DVD players as well as laptop computers when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is off.

• Music and video entertainment is available on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights.

• On the Airbus A340-300 and Airbus A330-300 aircraft, games are available as part of the personal entertainment system.

MEALS • Meals or snacks are served on most international flights. Pre-order meals are available for Economy Class passengers on most European flights.

• Complimentary non-alcoholic beverages are available on scheduled flights.

ENTERTAINMENT • Inflight entertainment on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights includes music, movies and an Airshow programme, which allows passengers to track their flight on a map.

• On scheduled flights, headphones are available free of charge. On leisure flights, the entertainment fee includes headphones.

• Alcoholic drinks are for sale in Economy Class on European scheduled flights, except on routes to and from Riga, St. Petersburg, Stockholm and Tallinn.

• In Economy Class on intercontinental scheduled flights we serve a hot meal with complimentary wine and beer.

• On European and intercontinental scheduled flights, coffee, tea, juice and soft drinks are complimentary.

• In Business Class all drinks are free of charge. On leisure flights, there is a charge for all beverages.

• On flights to and from northern Finland, alcoholic beverages are sold after 9 am.

84 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2013

Inflight shopping • You may order products in advance from our large and affordable pre-order assortment at www.finnairshop.com. On most flights we also have onboard sales items. The selection varies by route.

• Tax-free products, alcohol and tobacco are sold on aircraft flying to and from destinations outside the European Union. These include all intercontinental flights, as well as Ekaterinburg, Geneva, Moscow and Zurich. On flights within the EU, products are affordable but not tax-free.

• Due to limited space onboard, alcohol and tobacco products are not for sale on flights operated with Embraer aircraft, but these products may be ordered through the pre-order service.

• Gift items, cosmetics, fragrances and confectionary are sold on scheduled flights to and from the following destinations: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Budapest, Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf, Ekaterinburg, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Ljubljana, London, Madrid, Manchester, Malaga, Milan, Moscow, Munich, Nice, Paris, Prague, Rome, Venice, Vienna and Zurich.

• SHOP WITH POINTS Pamper yourself with Finnair Plus points at www.finnairplusshop.com

FINNAIR INFO INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

THIS MONTH ’ S INFLIGHT PICKS Movies, TV, music and games onboard

S Man of Steel In this Superman reboot, a young boy (Henry Cavill) learns that he has extraordinary powers and journeys to discover where he came from. He is soon called upon to save the world. (Content may not be suitable for younger passengers.) (Rating PG-13)

The Descendants A land baron (George Clooney) tries to re-connect with his daughters after his wife is seriously injured.

Alexander Payne’s film won the 2011 Oscar for adapted screenplay. (Content may not be suitable for younger passengers.) (Swedish Subtitles, Rating R)

NEWS UPDATES DAILY NEWS ROUNDUPS from the BBC, RT, FINNISH YLE and JAPANESE NHK are now available on your personal inflight entertainment system.

Turbo A freak accident might just help an everyday garden snail achieve his biggest dream: winning the Indy 500. Turbo is DearmWorks Animation’s latest movie adventure. (Rating PG) BW P

ICK

OF T

HE M

ONT

H

Blue Jasmine Woody Allen’s satirical tale tells the story of Jasmine (Cate Blanchett) who heads to San Francisco to reconnect with her sister after a marital crisis turns her life upside down. (Chinese Subtitles, Finnish Rating S; suitable for all ages)

Nameless Gangster: Rules of the Time In this South Korean film, a corrupt customs officer is on the verge of being fired, and decides to go out with a bang by selling a haul of seized drugs. (Content may not be suitable for younger passengers.)

(English Subtitles, Rating N/R)

it back, relax and enjoy your flight with your personal entertainment system. Use your handset or touchscreen to choose from 72 movies, 150 TV shows, 24 music channels, up to 200 CD albums and 15 games.

From films to news and sports, there’s always something for you to enjoy, including programs from Hollywood, Asia and around the globe.

Available language tracks include English, Japanese, Korean, Thai, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Swedish and Finnish, depending on the program, as well as Finnish and Chinese subtitles. We also offer family films and cartoons on all international and leisure flights. Selection may vary by aircraft type.

You can also create a music playlist from up to 200 CDs (on select aircraft).

Most entertainment systems also include a satellite phone for texting and emails, and a power outlet so you can use your own laptop computer or personal entertainment device. The system also offers an Airshow moving map that displays the progress of your flight.

Personal entertainment systems are available on Airbus A330 and Airbus A340 aircraft.

Headphones are free of charge on intercontinental scheduled flights. On leisure flights (AY1000 series) there is an entertainment fee including headphone rental (on Boeing 757, €5.00 per person including return flight; on Airbus A330 and A340 aircraft, €8.00 per person per flight). Most Airbus A340 aircraft and all Airbus A330 aircraft are equipped with an electricity socket, telephone and the option to send SMS & email messages via the Inflight Entertainment System (not available for inbound SMS to the US or Canada). Messages cost $2.00 each. Calls cost $7.00/first minute and $3.50/every 30 secs thereafter.

Entertainment/communication systems may vary by aircraft.

FINNAIR INFO BEFORE AND AFTER THE FLIGHT HELSINKI AIRPORT

TRANSFER SERVICE

34

33

32

32a

31x 31

31a-e 30

HOW TO TRANSFER • Check your gate and departure time on the airport monitors.

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• If your baggage has not been checked through to your final destination, collect it from the baggage claim area and go to check-in and security control.

SHOP

Security control

Finnair Tax-Free Shop

FINNAIR LOUNGE

AIRPORT SHOPPING

Finnair Plus members receive special discounts at the Finnair Tax-Free Shop when presenting their membership card.

37

2ND FLOOR

37a-d

GROUND FLOOR

AUTOMATED BORDER CHECKS are available to passengers with biometric EU, EEA or Swiss passports.

Place your passport on the reader with the photo page down, then pass through the first gate, turn towards the monitor, and wait for the second gate to open.

NON-SMOKING Smoking at Helsinki Airport is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

SHOPPING Receive special offers for airport services when you show your Finnair Plus card. You will recognise our partners by the Finnair Plus symbol.

Helsinki Airport features more than 30 shops and boutiques and various restaurants and cafés.

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Borde contro

36

Border control

SHOP

SHOP

2ND FLOOR

38

CHILDREN Children’s playrooms offer videos, microwave ovens and baby care facilities.

SHOP

Transfer Service 3

• All Finnair and Flybe departures are located in the same terminal.

WIRELESS INTERNET is available free of charge. An eService Bar is located across from gate 21.

Border control

LONG-HAUL AREA NON-SCHENGEN

• If you don’t have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desk.

• Most passengers transferring from nonEU countries to EU countries have to go through security and passport control.

Please note that liquids are restricted in carry-on baggage.

SHOP

LOST AND FOUND INQUIRIES, Lentäjäntie 1 (next to terminal T2, street level) Open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 and Sat 08:00-15:00.

Tel 0600 41006 (1,97€/min +local network charge) WWW.LOYTOTAVARA.NET

SHOP

WALKING TIME GATE 24-30: 7 MIN

CHECK OUT

T2 29

28

Restaurant & Deli Fly Inn

27

FINNAIR LOUNGE 26

Finnair Tax-Free Shop

23

GATE AREA

Security check

er ol

CHECK-IN 240–270

CHECK-IN 201–232 SHOP

SHOP

24

25 Transfer Service 2

SHOP

Security check

22

Finnair Service Desk

GROCERY

21

20

SH

OP

SCHENGEN AREA

THE LATEST FINNAIR PLUS TAX-FREE OFFERS ON PAGE 97.

LOUNGE 2

SHOP

1ST FLOOR

19

Tourist info

18

Pharmacy

17 16

Transfer Service 1

15

CHECK-IN 101–114

14

Security check

Baggage storage

T1

GROUND FLOOR

13

GATE AREA 12

2ND FLOOR

11

FINAVIA

SHOP BUS CONNECTIONS The Finnair City Bus to the Helsinki railway station leaves from Terminal 2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at Terminal 1. Travel time is about 30 minutes. Price: €6.30

1ST FLOOR

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INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times

ALGHERO 2473 03:35

AMSTERDAM 1525 02:35 ANTALYA 2637 03:40 AQABA 3494 05:05 ARRECIFE 4518 05:55 BANGKOK 7912 09:45 BARCELONA 2632 03:55 BEIJING 6325 07:55 BERGEN 1112 03:30 BERLIN 1123 02:00 BILLUND 1060 01:50 BODRUM 2572 03:55 BRUSSELS 1651 02:40 BUDAPEST 1481 02:20 BURGAS 1982 03:00 CANCUN via Scandinavia 9127 13:40 non-stop 12:05 CATANIA 2636 03:45 CHANIA 2756 03:50 CHONGQING 6736 08:40 COPENHAGEN 895 01:40 DALAMAN 2639 03:40 DELHI 5229 06:50 DUBAI 4537 05:55 DUBROVNIK 2027 03:00 DÜSSELDORF 1512 02:25 EKATERINBURG 2098 03:05 FARO 3480 04:45 FRANKFURT 1543 02:35 FUERTEVENTURA 4578 06:05 FUNCHAL 4310 05:45 GENEVA 1994 03:00 GOA via Sharjah 6739 10:15 GOTHENBURG 785 01:25 HAMBURG 1172 02:00 HANOI 7478 10:10 HÔ CHI MINH CITY (Saigon) 8510 10:50 HONG KONG 7821 09:35 HURGHADA 3743 05:05 INNSBRUCK 1701 02:35 IRÁKLION 2777 03:55 KAVALA 2159 03:15 KERKYRA 2331 03:25 KIEV 1171 01:55 KOS 2620 03:45 KRABI 8350 10:20 KRAKOW 1186 02:00 LANGKAWI 8560 10:25 LAS PALMAS 4700 06:10 LISBON 3369 04:50 LJUBLJANA 1713 02:40 LONDON 1863 03:10 MADRID 2950 04:25 MALAGA 3357 04:35 MANCHESTER 1817 03:00 MARSA ALAM 3932 05:10 MILAN 1953 03:05 MINSK 740 01:25 MOSCOW 876 01:40 MUNICH 1577 02:30 NAGOYA 7780 09:40 NEW YORK 6626 08:45 NICE 2202 03:25 NORRKÖPING 530 01:30 OSAKA 7751 09:30 OSLO 766 01:30 OVDA 3457 04:30 PALMA DE MALLORCA 2777 04:00 PAPHOS 2898 04:00 PARIS 1900 03:05 PHUKET 8312 10:05 PONTA DELGADA 4316 05:50

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Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times PRAGUE 1322 02:10 PREVEZA 2397 03:25 PUERTO PLATA via Scandinavia 8417 12:40 RHODES 2668 03:45 RIGA 382 00:55 RIMINI 1993 03:00 ROME 2235 03:25 SANTORINI 2660 03:40 SEOUL 7050 08:40 SHANGHAI 7410 09:05 SHARM EL SHEIKH 3664 05:00 SINGAPORE 9272 11:30 SKIATHOS 2353 03:30 SPLIT 1956 02:55 ST. PETERSBURG 301 01:00 STOCKHOLM 400 01:00 TALLINN 101 00:30 TARTU 245 00:50 TEL AVIV 3230 04:25 TENERIFE NORTE 4691 06:10 TENERIFE SUR 4745 06:10 TOKYO 7849 09:45 TORONTO 6619 08:50 TROMSØ 1081 02:00 VARADERO via Scandinavia 8665 12:55 VARNA 1911 02:55 VENICE 1847 02:55 VERONA 1903 02:55 VIENNA 1462 02:30 VILNIUS 633 01:15 WARSAW 940 01:40 XIAN 6421 07:50 ZAKYNTHOS 2526 03:55 ZÜRICH 1781 02:45

SCHEDULED DESTINATIONS LEISURE DESTINATIONS PARTNER-OPERATED CODE-SHARE OR MARKETING DESTINATIONS SEASONAL ROUTE EW SCHEDULED DESTINATION N IN 2014

Atl Oc antic ean

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI ENONTEKIÖ IVALO JOENSUU JYVÄSKYLÄ KAJAANI MARIEHAMN KEMI/TORNIO KITTILÄ KOKKOLA/PIETARSAARI KUOPIO KUUSAMO OULU PORI ROVANIEMI SAVONLINNA TAMPERE TURKU VAASA VARKAUS

900 02:15 931 01:35 360 01:00 235 00:45

464 01:00 282 00:55 609 01:30 823 01:25 391 01:05 335 01:00 667 01:15 514 01:05 214 00:40 697 01:20 281 00:55 143 00:35 150 00:35 348 00:55 259 00:50

Bay of B isca ya

Arct ic

Ocea n

Nor weg ian S ea

Nort

h Sea

Black Sea

Medit erranea n Sea NOVEMBER 2013

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Arctic Ocean FINNAIR-INFO WORLD MAP

Finnair Plus members earn Plus points from travelling on any scheduled flight with a oneworld airline.

Atlantic Ocean

Cartagena

Pacific Ocean

Ocea n Atlantic Ocean

oneworld: more than 800 destinations

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Arctic Ocean

Taiwan

Pacific Ocean

Indian Ocean

NOVEMBER 2013

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FINNAIR INFO CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY

Society and the environment Finnair wants to be the number one choice for quality- and environmentally-conscious travellers.

The airline collaborates with many environmental and humanitarian organisations, and invites its frequent flyers to participate in these efforts by donating Finnair Plus points.

Here are a few other examples of Finnair’s societal involvement in a changing world:

• From 1999 to 2009, Finnair cut its carbon dioxide emissions per seat by 22 per cent.

By 2017, it intends to reduce this number by another 24 per cent; total reductions per seat from 1999 to 2017 will equal as much as 41 per cent.

Finnair supports the International Air Transport Association’s (IATA) goal of zeroemissions air travel by 2050, as well as a global emissions trading scheme.

• Finnair flies one of the youngest fleets in the business. The average aircraft age is 8.4 years. Operating with new aircraft cuts back on fuel consumption and emissions by 20 to 30 per cent. The airline also flies the shortest routes between Europe and Asia via Helsinki, reducing fuel consumption. Passengers and cargo are carried on the same flights.

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• As part of the Aircraft Meteorological Data Relay (AMDAR) program, Finnair provides weather measurements to the Finnish National Weather Service and to a number of meteorological institutes globally.

• Through its collaboration with Nordic Offset, a Finnish company, AREA travel agency offers companies the opportunity to offset their carbon emissions from business travel by donating to renewable energy projects in growing markets such as China and India.

• Finnair employees are offered continuous training and development opportunities.

The company also conducts an annual employee wellbeing survey, participates in campaigns promoting equal treatment at the workplace, and places a strong focus on occupational safety.

NOVEMBER 2013

GLOBAL RESPONSIBILITY FINNAIR HAS joined United Nations Global

Compact, a corporate responsibility initiative that comprises more than 8,000 businesses around the world. The project was proposed by Kofi Annan, then Secretary General of the UN, in 1999 and launched the following year.

Participating businesses agree to make human rights, fair labour standards, environmental responsibility and anti-corruption core parts of their operations, and communicate with stakeholders on their efforts to implement the Global Compact’s ten principles. These principles include the elimination of discrimination at the workplace and promoting the development of environmentally friendly technologies. ”Finnair has a long history of developing and reporting on corporate responsibility. Showing our support for internationally recognised Global Compact principles is a logical step for us,” says Kati Ihamäki, Finnair’s vice president of sustainable development. ”We were also the first company in Finland to sign the UN’s Women’s Empowerment Principles, for which this is in many ways a continuation,” she adds.

UNGLOBALCOMPACT.ORG

FINNAIR INFO ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

DID YOU KNOW? For the second year in a row, Finnair has been included in the Carbon Disclosure Project’s (CDP) Climate Disclosure Leadership Index. The index recognises large companies that carefully monitor and report their emissions data.

Finnair’s score of 96 was four points higher than in 2012.

HOW YOU CAN HELP At pointshop.finnair.com, members of Finnair’s frequent flyer programme can donate points to the following organisations: ☛ The Finnish Association for Nature Conservation ☛ The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals ☛ The Cancer Society of Finland

• Finnair supports groups such as the Finnish Association for Nature Conservation and UNICEF, and has provided humanitarian assistance during environmental crises including the 2011 earthquake and tsunami in Japan. The airline has also worked with smaller organisations including Tikau and ENO, an environmental education programme.

• Finnair prioritises recycling: for example, the airline has donated cabin crew uniforms, blankets and other textiles to Uusix and GlobeHope, companies that turn used materials into design items.

• Finnair serves 16,000 meals

onboard daily, with more than 55 per cent of the waste going to recycling or re-use.

• Plastic wine bottles, mugs, packages and utensils, as well as cardboard cups and paper napkins are burned to produce energy. Aluminium cans and clear plastic bottles are recycled. The recycling process begins during the flight.

• Plastic trays are washed and reused. In Business Class, washable dishes and utensils are used.

F

· innair’s emissions calculator (at www.finnair.com/emissionscalculator) allows travellers to check their personal fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by plugging in their departure and destination cities. Data assurance is done

by PricewaterhouseCoopers and updated on a quarterly basis.

☛ The Finnish Red Cross ☛ UNICEF ☛ The Baltic Sea Action Group ☛ Hope

FIND OUT MORE Finnair has published an annual overview of its sustainability efforts since 1997. The 2012 Sustainability Report, available online, offers information on Finnair’s efforts in four areas: customers, personnel, operations and safety.

Visit www.finnairgroup.com/

responsibility/index.html to access the report.

BLOGS.FINNAIR.COM

NOVEMBER 2013

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FINNAIR-INFO FLEET

AIRBUS A340-300 Number 7 Seating capacity 270/269 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 890 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,500 m AIRBUS A330-300 Number 8 Seating capacity 297/271/263 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 890 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,600 m AIRBUS A321 (ER) Number 7 Seating capacity 196 (209) Length 44.5 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A320 Number 10 Seating capacity 165 Length 37.6 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A319 Number 9 Seating capacity 138 Length 33.8 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m EMBRAER 190 Operated by Flybe Number 12 Seating capacity 100 Length 36.2 m Wingspan 28.7 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m BOEING 757 Number 3 Seating capacity 227 Length 47.3 m Wingspan 41.4 m Cruising speed 860 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,800 m

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Join Finnair Plus & enjoy countless benefits FINNAIR PLUS IS a frequent flyer program open to all Finnair passengers. Children between the ages of two and 17 can join the Finnair Plus Junior program. Enter your Finnair Plus membership number upon booking or show your card at check-in to earn Plus points on Finnair and oneworld flights.

POINTS can be collected from more than 300 Finnair Plus partners around the world, including car rental companies, restaurants, hotels, airport shops and more.

with a set amount of points, or a flight on a oneworld airline. An Any Seat flight award can be purchased at www.finnair.com/plus and used when booking a Finnair flight.

MEMBERS can use points to buy services from Finnair Plus partners or make purchases from the online Finnair Plus­Shop, which stocks more than 3,500 items from More benefits gadgets to design classics.

Shop with points, money or a & offers for combination of both. members!

Join now!

FINNAIR OFFERS its frequent flyers a variety of benefits and flight award options. Purchase an Any Seat flight award with a flexible combination of points and money, a Classic flight award

JOIN FINNAIR PLUS at www. finnair.com/plus or by filling out an application in your seat pocket.

The Finnair Plus site includes information on the program and allows you to check your points balance, book flight awards, and browse special offers.

Finnair Plus

oneworld

BASIC SILVER GOLD PLATINUM

--RUBY SAPPHIRE EMERALD

THERE ARE FOUR FINNAIR PLUS TIERS: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum. Move up to higher tiers by collecting qualifying tier points on Finnair or oneworld flights.

See more information at www.finnair.com/plus.

BASIC BENEFITS:

+ C lassic and Any Seat flight awards

+ T ext message check-in for + + + + +

Finnair flights P ayment for excess baggage charges with points W aiting list priority based on tier P lusShop and partner service purchases with points D iscounts and points for partner services P oints for credit card purchases

ADDITIONAL SILVER BENEFITS:

+ B usiness Class check-in with + + + + +

Finnair Priority Lane* security checks O ne extra piece of baggage free of charge F innair lounge access when flying with Finnair 1 0% points bonus on Finnair flights 1 0% discount on purchases made in Finnair Shops and on flights outside of the EU

ADDITIONAL GOLD BENEFITS:

+ C onfirmed seat 48 hours before

+ + + + + +

Finnair flights (European or intercontinental for Business Class, intercontinental for Economy Class) P riority Lane* security checks t ravel class upgrades for Finnair flights U se of a service phone number S pecial baggage free of charge on Finnair flights O neworld Business Class and Frequent Flyer lounge access + 1 guest 1 5% points bonus on Finnair flights

ADDITIONAL PLATINUM BENEFITS:

+ N o expiration of points during tracking period

+ Oneworld First Class checkin and lounge access

+ 25% points bonus on Finnair flights

* For example: Helsinki, Stockholm-Arlanda

NOVEMBER 2013

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FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

Q A

CAN I GIVE FINNAIR PLUS POINTS TO SOMEONE ELSE, OR BUY EXTRA POINTS FOR MYSELF?

Yes you can. You can purchase award points for yourself or give them as gifts to another Finnair Plus member. Log in to your account at www.finnair.com/plus.

Q A

I AM MISSING POINTS FROM A PAST FINNAIR FLIGHT. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

ou can request points from past Finnair flights or Y flights on Finnair Plus partner airlines via your online Finnair Plus user profile: remember to do so no earlier than two weeks and no later than six months after your flight. Please note that you must have been a Finnair Plus member at the time of your flight to qualify. See www.finnair.com/plus for more information.

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Q A

WHAT KINDS OF AWARD VOUCHERS CAN I BUY WITH FINNAIR PLUS POINTS?

T he most popular perks our members can purchase with points are Finnair lounge access, excess baggage charges or shopping vouchers of 20 or 50 euros at the Finnair Tax Free Shop at Helsinki Airport. You can also buy award vouchers with points or a combination of points and money to pay for services at select restaurants, hotels and car rental companies.

Did you know?

YOU CAN enjoy a pre-flight coffee and pastry or meal using Finnair Plus points at several of Helsinki Airport's restaurants (excluding O'Leary's, Starbucks and Picnic). Present your Finnair Plus card when paying, and the points will be automatically deducted from your account; one euro equals 400 points.

FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS PARTNERS

Offers fOr finnair Plus members in

november

The Finnair Tax-free shop at the Helsinki Airport welcomes Finnair Plus members with monthly offers and benefits. Just show your Finnair Plus card and save 20% or more on our regular tax-free prices on certain items.

Offers fOr finnair Plus members in

november

The Finnair Tax-free shop at the Helsinki Airport welcomes Finnair Plus members with monthly offers and benefits. Just show your Finnair Plus card and save 20% or more on our regular tax-free prices on certain items.

TAX-FREE SHOP

GATe 28

TAX-FREE SHOP

GATe 28 NEW & IMPROVED!

Wolford Soft Opaque 70 den, black

€20

Normal ta x-free price €25 Wolford Men Long Distance Knee

€26

Normal tax-free price €32

WINE WORLD & 2ND FLOOR LIFESTYLE WORLD DESIGN ITEMS • EXCLUSIVE BRANDS FROM FINLAND NEW & IMPROVED! LUXURy COSMETICS • TOp FRAGRANCES • GIFT ITEMS WINE WORLD & 2ND FLOOR LIFESTYLE WORLD JEwELLERy • qUALITy wINES • SwEETS AND TOyS…

Gerard Bertrand Domaine de Cigalus Red Bio

€22,90

Normal tax-free price €27 Castello di Monsanto Fabrizio Bianchi Chardonnay

€17.90

Normal tax-free price €21 Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut

€32.90

Normal tax-free price €37

DESIGN ITEMS • EXCLUSIVE BRANDS FROM FINLAND LUXURy COSMETICS • TOp FRAGRANCES • GIFT ITEMS JEwELLERy • qUALITy wINES • SwEETS AND TOyS…

WIN A TRIP TO neW WIN AYorK TRIP TO neW YorK

VISIT OUR RENEWED GATEVISIT 28 STORE AND WIN OUR RENEWED TWOGATE RETURN TICKETS 28 STORE AND WIN TO THE APPLE! TWOBIG RETURN TICKETS TO THE BIG APPLE!

Collect points daily You can earn Finnair Plus points on your everyday purchases: just apply for the Finnair Plus Diners Club or MasterCard credit card. Both credit cards also double as your Finnair Plus membership card − all of your benefits are available on this one card. The Finnair Plus Diners Club and Mastercard are available for Finnair Plus members in Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

Find out more and apply at WWW.FINNAIR.FI/PLUS.

Selected Biotherm products -20% from normal tax-free prices

FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

Shop online with Finnair Plus points HOME DELIVERY

Riedel Vinum Riesling buy 4, pay for 3 These glasses by historical Austrian company Riedel are recommended especially for light red wines. Their shape helps bring out the aromas of Chianti and Zinfandel, for example. They are also well suited for aromatic white wines such as riesling ja grüner veltliner.

Regular price €119 Member offer €80 + 1,000 Finnair Plus points

THE ONLINE FINNAIR PLUSSHOP stocks over 3,000 items and delivers around the world. Pay with Finnair Plus points, money or a combination of both. Items will be shipped to your home or to your nearest post office.

FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

More PlusShop offers

TEFAL JAMIE OLIVER PROFESSIONAL HARD ANOD. PAN, 28 CM €82.90 Member offer €69 + 1,000 points

SAGAFORM HEART BOWL AND SERVING SPOON €49.90 Member offer €35 + 1,000 points

ARTIK CUTLERY SET, 24 PARTS €254.9 Member offer €219 + 1,000 points

KITCHENAID ARTISAN STAND MIXER, €629, several colors Member offer €549 + 1,000 points

MARTTIINI ROAST SET LUXUS €74.9 Member offer €59 + 1,000 points

KÜCHENPROFI CREME BRULEE SET €40.9, red and white Member offer €30 + 1,000 points

SWISSMAR WASABI MORTAR €31.9 Member offer €25 + 1,000 points

MARIMEKKO IN GOOD COMPANY SIIRTOLAPUUTARHA TEA POT 0,7 L €72 Member offer €50 + 1,000 points

SAMSUNG RW33EBSS1/XEE WINE CABINET FOR 33 BOTTLES €499 Member offer €299 + 1,000 points

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

WWW.FINNAIRPLUSSHOP.COM

petrifun.fi