Anton’s farewell

BY RONEL LEHMANN

Costeau

How To Be A Sommelier

It has happened to me so many times, that awful greeting by a bouncer when approaching a restaurant, attempting to dine with a host or fulfil my own table reservation. Their brutal visage, fierce outdoor clothing and earpiece always gives it away and can be very off putting. This is not the concierge welcome that you receive when approaching the stable of Corbin & King fine dining establishments. It is more bowler hats, Savile Row suits and overcoats with a Good Evening Sir and Welcome Madame.

Which brings me to the farewell dinner for the giant of cuisine, Anton Mosimann OBE DL, a Swiss chef who achieved notoriety at the Dorchester Hotel for obtaining two Michelin stars, the first time such an accolade had been given to a hotel restaurant, outside of France.

There were no bouncers outside his club, founded in October 1988, just the great man himself, trademark moustache and bow tie. It was a traditional Swiss welcome right in the heart of Belgravia. I was guest of Liz Brewer, the world-renowned eventsorganiser and expert on social behaviour and etiquette, which in my world of employability resonates with the younger generation. In her company, I always find myself sitting up straight, holding my cutlery correctly and making sure that I speak to the person on my left until the main course.

That really wasn’t difficult because who else regaled me with his international tales but our very own travel editor and supersonic food taster, Fred Finn, Guinness Book of Record, Most Travelled man. He was responsible for me being able to introduce Anton to cater for a Japanese Airlines event attended by Her Royal Highness The Princess of Wales in her capacity as Patron of the Malcolm Sargent Cancer Fund for Children in 1992. At the time, his Japanese themed canapés caused quite a stir and have never been forgotten.

After a glass or two of Mosimann’s Grand Cru Brut Verzenay NV to the sounds of a quartet band, we were seated and the banquet began. Well not quite. Just as our palates were salivating at the prospect of the six-course menu, Anton addressed us and took us on a trip down memory lane, including his many accomplishments, messages from some of those 3,000 friends unable to be invited and a funny story about how chefs in the past used to deal with requests for vegetarian food.

I don’t wish to spoil the starter, Trio of Seafood, Hand-Dived Scottish Scallop Carpaccio, Prawn Cocktail Belfry and Marinated Salmon and Dorset Crab. Warm bread was served, not those rolls which sometimes are heated up and taste like gloop. A white wine from Mâconnais, Bourgogne, Saint-Véran ‘Au Clos du Chateau Domain des Poncetys France 2018 had me enthralled by the pairing.

It never ceases to irritate me today that whenever you accept an invitation to attend a function, your inbox is suddenly full of requests to learn whether you have a food allergy or special requirements. I always reply that I eat what I am given!

The plates were cleared in readiness for one of Anton’s signature dishes, Risotto ai Funghi. Now having told you that I am a model guest, I don’t really go out of my way to eat mushrooms. It only goes to show you that this dish was in a class of its own. I could have devoured this as a main course.

The main course arrived, Seared Fillet of British Beef, Black Bean and Coriander Dressing, Sautéed New Potatoes and Market Vegetables served with a red wine from Libournais, Château Faugères 2009, St Emilion. My knife glided softly through the meat. We discussed at the table whether our own fillets cooked at home came anywhere close to tasting like this. It was exquisite and nothing was left on my plate by the time service arrived to clear.

Vacherin Mont D’Or and bread followed. This cheese originates from the Mont d’Or in France. As the summer comes to an end and the air gets cooler, the cows come down the mountain and their milk becomes fattier and reduces in quantity. The taste is hedonistic, powerful and rich.

By the time the Assiette of Desserts arrived, I found myself marvelling at the variety of tastes we had just experienced and a glass of Peter Lehmann (no relation) Botrytis Semillon Barossa Valley Australia, 2016, which was both lush and honeyed.

The petit fours containing crafted macarons, chocolates and raspberry jellies served with black coffee were the perfect finale. I always like an encore. I thought that the presentations made to all the staff showed the loyalty, trust and heritage at its best.

When dining at Mosimann’s in future, I will always look up to a legend with great affection. The likeness of the sculpture by Professor Nadey Hakim, the world renowned British-Lebanese transplant surgeon, is so real, it will always be as if he is still there cooking whilst wearing his famous-coloured bow tie.

Before I left, I did wish both Philipp and Mark Mosimann every continued success in ensuring that Anton’s legacy will live on. My next degustation awaits.

Ylegendary sommelier Georgios Kassianos, the so-called Godfather of Cyprus Wine. He took me through all the things you must do when gauging a vintage: how to swill the glass, how to check for sugar and salt content, and then how to taste it properly.

Then came the coup. “Now, once you’ve done all that,” he said, “nobody can tell you whether you’re right or wrong.” I found that liberating, feeling that it effectively meant that my ignorance in the matter of wine didn’t matter at all.

And yet, Kassianos’ assessment, if it’s true, hasn’t stopped the profession of the sommelier from growing up over the years. It’s both an interesting, and reasonably lucrative profession with the median salary in the US being $62,000. Gabriel Veissaire is the head sommelier at the Le Meurice in Paris and couldn’t be more enthusiastic about the route he’s taken. So how did it begin? “I interned to a supervisor who was awarded the title of “Meilleur ouvrier de France”,” he tells me, “I had the chance to travel all over the French vineyards with him. It’s a profession that is above all one of humility and curiosity.”

So what attracts him to it? “It’s a passion above all, which brings together a certain history of the vineyard, the mystical character of the vine which is the oldest plant in the world, the complexity of the soil and the geology fermentation and the microbial world and above all the pleasures that can be derived from the wine and food match.”

That sounds like more than enough to keep you going for a very interesting career.

I decide to talk to other sommeliers, and ask James Shaw, the sommelier at the Conrad St James in London, how a typical day goes: “It often starts by checking in with social media and seeing what everyone has been drinking the night before – always good to keep a finger on the pulse. Once I’m in the building, I will prepare our ‘wine of the day’ for our team briefing – it’s something we do each day to share the stories and styles of each of the wines on our list.” Then people arrive. “Once we are in service, it is full theatre time where we look to share the great stories behind the bottles, pour tasters for our guests to try and explain the thought behind our pairing recommendations.”

It can sometimes be a hard road being a sommelier. Shaw recalls: “I left a background of Chemistry and Physics to work with food and wine. My parents thought I was nuts, but now that they have seen how far I have gone in my career they’re glad they supported my change in direction. I don’t think I was really aware what it entails, but I wouldn’t change a thing.”

So what’s Shaw’s advice to young people some more. Taste with others, discuss and don’t be afraid to follow your instincts over what feels right to you.”

Nadia Khan, the head sommelier of the Adam Handling Restaurant Group, notes the importance of setting aside time to think ahead: “Between the two services (lunch and dinner) I will dedicate some time meeting with suppliers and producers, tasting and talking about new wines and projects. This keeps me constantly informed and engaged with the wines from around the world, always training my palate and developing my knowledge.”

So what talent is required to make it as a sommelier? Khan recalls: "I think I have always had a discerning taste and smell. And, with time, experience and constant training, I have developed an analytical consideration, which now enables me to judge a wine after just two or three sips. I would say it’s a natural flair that I’ve applied to experience and knowledge.”

So what would Khan recommend to young people thinking of becoming a sommelier. “I can advise that it will take time and a lot of hard work but nothing is more rewarding than making your passion what you do every day,” he explains. “Being a sommelier means that you can constantly learn and develop your expertise, whilst still having that incredible interaction with guests that often makes it all worthwhile.” Costeau will drink to that.