FFD December 2023

December 2023 Volume 24 Issue 10 gff.co.uk

They are the champions Meet the team behind the Norwegian blue crowned at the World Cheese Awards

ALSO INSIDE Ludlow’s Broad Bean deli Britain’s cider renaissance Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show preview

S TA N D I N G P R O U D

Two Super Gold Winners at the World Cheese Awards (proudly sponsored by The Fine Cheese Co.)

Sinodun Hill 12th place and Wigmore 16th place out of 4502 entries.

First in fine for 30 years: fine cheese, fine charcuterie, fine crackers, fine condiments, fine chocolates...

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

WELCOME CONTENTS 4

NEWS

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VIEWPOINTS

FSA food fraud hotline, chasing the Grey Pound, and the sale of Seggiano

Where do all those people disappear to? Do they not want to eat well in January too?

Opening Laura’s Larder in Bromley, TfL’s advertising rules, and shoplifting

15 CHEESE

The Cheese Merchant closes, King Stone doubles dairy capacity

22 WORLD CHEESE AWARDS ROUND-UP 35 FOODSERVICE

Recipe for cheese, ale & onion soup

39 SHOW PREVIEW Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show

41 DRINKS

The emergence of fine cider

45 CATEGORY FOCUS

Low-no drinks, free-from & organic

By Michael Lane, editor

If you’re anything like me, you’ll already be fatigued by the usual collection of talking vegetables, varnished buffet food and celebrity endorsements blaring out of the TV. We’ve had a month of festive adverts and I’m reliably informed that a certain soft drink multinational’s season-heralding truck procession has done a few laps.

If the “holidays are coming”, then it feels a bit late for a retail journalist to be pondering the festive trading season. Like you, we at FFD have been doing that since April but I’m not sure you can think about it too much.

This time of year is vital to independent food retailers. Footfall and (hopefully) basket spend goes through the roof. You should be breathlessly busy, as the shopfloors teem with consumers all looking to upgrade to genuinely “fine” food.

Spending confidence should be boosted by the Government’s recent self-congratulatory announcement

53 MEET THE PRODUCER Pentire Drinks

54 PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING 58 DELI OF THE MONTH

EDITOR’S CHOICE Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, deputy editor

Brunost Eleftheria

Broad Bean Deli

63 ADVICE Embracing TikTok, making charcuterie in-house editorial@gff.co.uk Editor: Michael Lane Deputy editor: Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox Art director: Mark Windsor Contributors: Joseph Ackerman, Nick Baines, Patrick McGuigan, Greg Pitcher, Lynda Searby Cover photo: Håkon Borgen opportunities@gff.co.uk Sales director: Sally Coley Senior sales account managers: Becky Haskett Jenny Homeshaw

about inflation too.

But once it’s all over, most of you will have time to sit down and count up those sales, because you’ll barely have any customers. Where do all those people disappear to? Do they not want to eat well in January too? Who will buy that whole tray of panettone bread & butter pudding you’ve just made for the café?

In the same way that many in the industry wondered how independents could retain customers post-lockdown, I’m mooting what you might do to turn a few of those December shoppers into regulars.

So, the last few times I’ve been out to a food business (as a customer), I’ve tried to analyse whether I would come back - and my experiences recently have all ended in a resounding “no”.

There was the “first day” barista in an empty coffee shop flailing at the controls of an espresso machine, while his boss sat on a wall outside sipping on a latte.

The Norwegians’ whey based cheese, Brunost, is a recent discovery for me. Its fudgey texture and toffee-like notes are quite unlike the Continental and British styles I’m used to, and really quite arresting. One that triumphed at the World Cheese Awards drew gasps from the (mostly Norwegian) crowd, as it was actually made in India. And that’s the best thing about cheese, and food &drink in general: it never ceases to surprise you. More on p.22

Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Finance director: Ashley Warden

Marketing & PR officer: Jenna Morice Data strategy & insight manager: Lindsay Farrar Engagement & sales support assistant: Nick Rose

support@gff.co.uk Managing director: John Farrand Special projects director: Tortie Farrand Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns

Operations manager: Claire Powell Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand, Sepi Rowshanaei Operations & events coordinator: Zara Williams Customer services assistant: Chloë Warren-Wood

Chairman: Bob Farrand

Then there was a pub where I think staff were working in fear of having their wages docked for daring to smile.

Finally, I was told by the manager in another restaurant that I hadn’t been served coleslaw because “the chef wasn’t happy with it”. Yes, I’m still trying to work this out too.

Notice that none of these irritations feature the supposedly key metrics of price (something retailers can’t do much about) or quality (something that any good business should have in hand). What made the difference, and what can make the difference for you when serving the Christmas hordes, is the experience.

So, dish out the mulled wine and mince pies, smile at them as they stress about how much Stilton to buy and – please – tell them to come back again soon.

If none of that works, I’ve got an idea for an ad campaign in January: A deli is for life, not just for Christmas

Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £50 p.a. inc P&P. © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2023. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher.

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gff.co.uk +44 (0)1747 825200 Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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NEWS

CYBER CRIME

FSA launches whistleblower hotline to tackle food fraud

IN BRIEF

By Greg Pitcher

Food standards chiefs have launched a whistleblower hotline in a bid to root out crime, which is thought to be costing the country up to £2 billion a year.

The Food Standards Agency (FSA) created the dedicated phone number after carrying out detailed research into illegal behaviour in the industry.

It opened a probe earlier this year into potential food fraud while a media investigation uncovered separate allegations of rotten meat being sold to retailers.

It has now published a series of reports showing the massive cost of criminal behaviour in the sector, with the hotline introduced as a means of tackling it.

Chief executive Emily Miles said: “Strong and clear whistleblowing arrangements are an important part of the protections against food

fraud.

“All members of The Food Fraud Working Group have agreed to help support this new hotline within the food industry in England, Wales and Northern Ireland.”

David Lishman, founder of Yorkshire butcher’s Lishman’s said it was “disheartening” to spend time sourcing high quality local meat only to be undercut by companies blurring the truth about their products’ provenance.

“It drags prices down and affects the farming world,” he said. “Big multiple retailers want the cheapest prices and unscrupulous operators will take the easy option.

Suppliers are so tied down on price some will buy the cheapest thing available.”

Lishman urged fine food retailers to have faith in their own processes.

“The integrity of indies is trusted over and above the supermarkets,” he said.

It is hoped that the new number will make it easier to share concerns about food-related crime, from theft and unlawful processing to food adulteration, substitution and misrepresentation.

“We have to stick to our guns.”

Paul Hargreaves, CEO of wholesaler Cotswold Fayre, said interest in speciality food had grown in recent years.

“Supermarkets are all trying to look like they sell farm-made products now,” he said. “You can have two items, one genuinely artisan and the other 40% cheaper yet it can be hard for consumers to tell them apart. Anything to create more transparency

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James said: “This is a proud moment for Wales as we make another stride forward in eradicating plastic from our beaches,

streets and landfill.

“If we all take a Team Wales approach and look to reuse, recycle and repair more, it will help create a greener future for generations to come.

In England, single-use

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

on supply chains and ingredients through onpack display would be very helpful.”

Hargreaves questioned how useful the whistleblower hotline would be, suggesting it could create a forum for unscrupulous individuals to “stitch up their competitors” Lishman added: “We welcome any move to tackle food fraud, but this is likely to create issues with disgruntled employees.”

The Source trade show will take place on 7th-8th February 2024 at the Westpoint Arena, near Exeter.

Trade buyers in retail, hospitality and catering can register to attend at thesourcetradeshow. co.uk.

Brookvale Farm Shop in Ireland is closing its doors, citing the falling price of milk and rising costs. The 100-year-old family farm said diversification wasn’t enough to justify keeping its herd of cows.

Taste of the West celebrates 2023 winners at awards ceremony

Wales introduces single use plastic ban in shops and restaurants Wales has become the latest country to ban single-use plastic items in shops and restaurants.

Since 30 October, it has been illegal for retailers to sell or give away disposable plates, cutlery, cups, stirrers, straws and other specified synthetic-polymer products.

Councils in Wales now have the power to enforce the offence.

It follows England banning a range of single-use plastic products at the start of October.

Welsh minister for climate change Julie

With grocery sales up 10% Sainsbury’s has regained a share of the market share from other supermarkets, including Aldi and Lidl.

It credits growth to its Nectar Prices, the Aldi Price Match scheme and the introduction of 300+ new products.

plastic plates, trays and bowls can no longer be supplied to the public.

Food and drink can only be placed in polystyrene if it needs further preparation.

Notpla, which sells seaweed-based packaging, said the ban was “a step in the right direction” but called for food service businesses to “go further”.

“Are you sure the packaging you are eating with does not contain any polyfluoroalkyl, or isn’t actually lined with aqueous coating, which contains micro-plastics?” asked the company.

Taste of Sidmouth, Sea Sisters Cannery and Westaway Sausages were among the producers to emerge victorious at the Taste of the West 2023 awards, In its 30th edition, the event promoting food & drink businesses from the South West of England elected the winners in 12 hospitality and retail categories, as well as champion products in 26 categories. All in all, 1,200 products and 350 hospitality and retail establishments entered this year.

Taste of Sidmouth won the Supreme Champion Product Award for its Pear & Ricotta Ice-Cream, and the Devonbased Sea Sisters Cannery was awarded the Reserve Supreme Champion Product. Westaway Sausages, meanwhile, was given the Sustainability Award 2023 for introducing home compostable packaging across its range.

Tim Potter, Son & Daughter, Rumwell Farm Shop & Café, Ashburton Delicatessen and Jurassic Coast Meats were recognised as the best independent retailers in the UK.

Retailers should do more to appeal to elderly customers, says ILC

By Greg Pitcher

Industry leaders have spoken of the importance of appealing to older customers after a report set out the heavy cost of ignoring this demographic.

The International Longevity Centre (ILC) said longer lives and economic trends meant over-55s would account for almost two-thirds of consumer expenditure in the UK by 2040. The body warned that not being accessible and welcoming to all groups of people was costing high street firms hundreds of millions of pounds.

Ailsa Forbes, retail impact fellow at the ILC, said: “It makes commercial sense for independent retailers such as delis and farm shops to really tap into these forgotten markets by being even more inclusive.”

Samantha Green, manager at Groombridge Farm Shop, said the Kent business had made certain

physical adjustments for older customers, but beyond this tried to offer a friendly face.

“My background is in mental health nursing and I think it transfers to this job,” she said. “People

Booths reports £4m pre-tax loss Premium grocer Booths has plunged to a £4 million pre-tax loss after a “challenging trading year”.

The firm, which has 27 stores across the north of England, blamed inflation and rising interest rates for its drop into the red in the year to 1 April 2023.

Revenue was down 3% to £287 million, of which Booths said half was due to a “noncomparable 53rd trading week” in the prior period.

Executive chairman Edwin Booth said: “The continued focus of the team to adapt, improvise and overcome the uncertainties of a challenging market has delivered a solid and sustainable platform for

growth.

“This was achieved by staying true to our purpose, inspiring and nourishing our customers’ desire for great food and drink.”

Booths said its net promoter score had edged up to 72%, representing “world class” customer satisfaction. Bank debt increased to £17.6 million but this was above prepandemic levels.

Meanwhile Marks and Spencer revealed pre-tax profit of £360 million in the six months to the end of September this year, up 75% on the same period in 2022. The firm said food sales were up almost 15% per cent in that time.

want to feel a sense of community and support.

We go out of our way to find out about people and ask how they are– often they want that human contact.”

Simon Warren, owner of

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...

The East Street Deli, said it had adjusted its marketing to appeal to its ageing customer base.

“We generally use a lot of social media to tell people we are here but I spoke to my mum about how she would know about our shop and she told me she reads a lot of the local free publications that come through her door,” he explained. “So we have advertised quite heavily in those.

“Over 65 is the most important demographic for us, especially on weekdays.”

Andrew Goodacre, chief executive of the British Independent Retailers Association, backed the ILC’s inclusion drive.

“Older people are not always considered as an opportunity but they should be.

“Retailers have to ask themselves if there are ways they could make it easier for older people to use their shop. If they can, they are likely to be well rewarded.”

What can retailers to do attract the so-called Grey Pound?

The ILC has published a series of guides full of tips for retailers to appeal to older customers.

Suggestions across these documents include installing a ramp as an alternative to steps; keeping aisles clutter-free; and not washing floors during opening hours.

Limiting the volume of music; keeping printfont legible; and using bright lighting and clear wayfinding tools are further tips.

Other advice includes making sure staple products are in easy reach; providing toilets and seating areas; and removing distractions

such as mirrors or patterned surfaces.

Beyond practical measures, considering the customer experience and asking people what they would like to change in an environment are key ways of making a positive impact, the ILC says.

Visit the I nt e r n at i o n a l Longevity C e n t r e ’ s website to download extensive retailing guides ilcuk.org.uk/

...HOW THEY APPEAL TO OLDER CUSTOMERS SAMANTHA

GREEN, GROOMBRIDGE FARM SHOP

“We have just brought in small trolleys basically baskets on wheels. We have double doors for wheelchair access and wide aisles.If someone needs help, we will offer it. If someone has a hip operation coming up, we will deliver to them. We are a community hub.

SIMON WARREN, THE EAST STREET DELI

“We keep the door open so no-one has to push it, make sure there are nice coffee or food smells and it is warm and inviting. I consider the type of music we play; the right atmosphere brings people back.

We will cut a small piece of cheese for people living on their own who don’t want waste or excess cost.”

ANDREW GOODACRE, BRITISH INDEPENDENT RETAILERS ASSOCIATION

“How high are your shelves? How clear is your pricing information? Are there stairs? I despair of large retailers who have online-only offers or app-only payment.

Why would you turn cash away? Hearing and sight may not be as good so it is about giving people a little bit more time.”

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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NEWS

CYBER CRIME

Seggiano’s new ownership will keep the brand exactly as it is

IN BRIEF

By Michael Lane

Italian food brand Seggiano has said it will maintain its focus on independent retailers in the UK – as well as its rigorous approach to NPD – under the stewardship of its new owners Certified Origins.

In October, co-founders David Harrison and Peri Eagleton sold their business to the company, which specialises in olive oil and tomato products, with both parties adamant that no changes will be made to either Seggiano’s target customer base or its sourcing arrangements.

The Certified Origins Group, which is headquartered in Tuscany, is now the owner of the brand – and its 200 products sourced from some 40 different suppliers across Italy.

David Harrison told FFD: “We are very happy to have sold it back to Italy.

In many ways, we’ve done

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Seggiano was founded by Harrison and Eagleton 28 years ago, now supplying hundreds of speciality retailers around the world

something that the Italians couldn’t do. You talk about campanilismo, regionalism.

Italians are so regional, we all know that. What I’ve realised, over time, is that it actually took passionate outsiders to pull together the best of Italy.”

Gerard Jara, the president of Certified Origins Group, said that the most important thing for the UK trade to know was that the management team at Seggiano would remain

the same – apart from the gradual departure of Harrison and Eagleton.

He added there was potential for the brand to continuing growing in the UK independent market but that he had no plans to deviate from the current plan.

“The opportunity for Seggiano comes from different markets,” he told FFD. “Obviously there’s space in the UK because of the good work that has been

Second pitch for nursery at Minskip

The latest from farm shops across the country

Minskip Farm Shop owners Emma and Ben Mosey have resubmitted a planning application to set up a nursery on the farm.

They claim the 74-place day care will encourage learning through outdoor activities, while helping to meet “an acute need” in the local area.

The application comes after a first was turned down by the North Yorkshire Council, namely on the grounds that it could result in a “visually intrusive” development.

The new proposal features a scaled back design, the addition of parking and hardstanding, as well as arguing that the nursery will meet a local need.

The Black Farmer is bringing his effervescent cultural mix to Brixton with an expansive farm shop, welcoming artisan producers from around the UK. Opening in December in Market Row, described as “the dynamic epicentre of London’s culinary diversity”, the bright space will offer highquality produce, ready-to-eat meals, food on-the-go, gifts, and a café/bar. theblackfarmer.com/ brixton-market

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

done; new accounts keep coming in and they become part of the family.

“From a corporate point of view, we’re going to be focusing on more of a planned growth in the US and in international markets. That shows our level of satisfaction in the UK business today, so we don’t have the pressure or the need to double or triple sales in the UK.” Independent retail customers in the UK can now look forward to a steady stream of new launches over the coming months.

“I think we’ve launched three new products since Gerard bought the business,” said Harrison, citing the new chocolate grissini, chocolate almond maraschino and three new soups.

Jara added: “David and Peri have handed me a list of items that is four pages long. There’s so much in the pipeline.” seggiano.com

Nottingham deli Delilah Fine Foods is introducing a cheese subscription service.

For £40 a month, customers will receive three artisan cheeses, accompaniments and notes on the cheeses.

The Welsh Wine Awards 2023 celebrated a record number of entries this year – 50 wines from 12 vineyards were judged, resulting in 3 Gold medals, 20 Silvers and 26 Bronzes.

The UK Government has admitted that delaying HFSS volume promotions is likely to set the aims of the obesity strategy back by years. Responding to the EFRA committee inquiry on food security, it said it still expects the policy to “have a significant impact” on obesity in the long term.

DOWN ON THE FARM The pandemic was the catalyst to this new farm shop that has opened in Woodford, Northamptonshire.

In 2020, the Greedy Gordon’s group set up a home delivery business which gave lieu to a bricks and mortar farm shop alongside the Buttery Café.

Open daily, the shop has an in-house butchery, cheese counter, fresh fruit and vegetables and home-cooked pies, pasties and cakes. ggexpresswoodford. co.uk

At the end of the summer, a new farm shop and café opened at Black Barn Farm. Salhouse Farm Shop has an extensive deli, a large butchery counter and a strong affiliation with the best producers in Norfolk.

Suffolk Council has granted planning permission to convert the barns at High House Farm in Bawdsey into a farm shop and café, with four holiday lets attached.

Authorisation was granted on the basis of new access roads, associated parking and electric vehicle charging points.

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

WWW.HAWKSHEADRELISH.COM

Chocolate Oaties

Part of the Hebridean Baker biscuit range www.stagbakeries.co.uk

2024

Embellish with Relish this Christmas!

Speciality Food & Drink Show

21-23 January SEC Glasgow

Chilled & Frozen Confectionery Biscuits & Snacks Condiments & Preserves Drinks

Register now at www.scotlandstradefairs.com SFDS Fine Food half pg 204 x 141.5mm.indd 1

03/11/2023 2023 10:42 Vol.24 Issue 10 | December

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@Californiaraisinsuk Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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VIEWPOINTS IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW...

LAURA ROBERTS, owner, Laura’s Larder, Petts Wood, Bromley, London

I always knew I would end up working in food but the path to get here wasn’t straight. After university I got a job at Capital Radio and then worked in various media roles for 21 years. It was only when my brother was diagnosed with leukemia that I reconsidered my life choices.

I handed in my notice and took six months out, visiting delis, taking photos, asking questions, looking for premises. It sounds like a long time but I don’t think you can plan enough. I had a very clear idea of how I wanted the front of house to look but hadn’t given enough thought to the back of house. With hindsight I could have worked in a deli during this time to gain knowledge and learn to plan my stock better as the ratio of fridges to shelves wasn’t quite right (too much fridge space and they are expensive to run).

We opened on 26th February 2020, just three weeks before the pandemic hit. I became known as a bit of a ‘fine food dealer’, sourcing everything from eggs to pasta for people locally.

The positive of this was that I got to know my customers really well.

My deli is loosely inspired by Picnic Fayre, a Norfolk deli I visited in my twenties. I wanted hams hanging from the ceiling, fresh bread, lovely samples for people to try and a packed cheese counter. Because of Covid we sell more pre-packaged food than I would have liked.

We also sell less fresh bread that I thought we would, but I have got the order down to the loaf, minimising food waste. Anything that can’t be sold in the shop we try and use in the kitchen, or we sell via the Toogoodtogo app.

Initially I was resistant to having a coffee machine. I bought one but it was stressful as no-one was barista trained. Since then, I’ve come round and it has become our fourth biggest source of revenue, after deli lines, cheese and bakery. My coffee supplier, 80 Stone, has trained every member of staff – I am fanatical about making sure our coffee matches the quality of our food.

The biggest challenge for me has been the retailing side of the business, whereas the part I am good at is the marketing. I knew how to get going on social media. Annoyingly, I don’t have time to do it anymore, so I am likely going to have to pass it onto someone else. If you aren’t spending half a day a week on your social media, you are not spending enough time.

I think people perceive running a deli as a ‘fun’ profession. It is rewarding but there is no let-up. And even everyday tasks like popping for a coffee with friends become a fact-finding mission. You’re always on it.

Interview Lynda Searby Photography Joseph Ackerman

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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View from HQ FFD’s publisher and Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand has his say

IT’S BAD MANNERS to brag but our very own World Cheese Awards (WCA) 2023 was a huge success. A success created by the cheesemakers, judges and the global press and media. Like nothing else, it reminds the world that artisan cheese is a wonderful, worthy and delicious thing. And it wasn’t just our World Champion, Nidelven Blå from Gangstad Gårdsysteri, a cows’ milk blue, that demonstrated this. Of the Final 16 cheesemakers, twelve declared that they employ between 1-20 employees. Small can be beautiful and tasty.

Not according to Transport for London (TfL), the body responsible

GREAT TASTE 2024 ENTRY

Members’ entry fortnight will run from 8-22 January followed by general admissions from 22 January to 6 February.

For more information, visit gff. co.uk/greattaste

CHEESE TRAINING IN 2024

Retail Cheese Training dates for 2024 have been announced.

One day courses will be taking place in London, Dorset, Wakefield, and Scotland.

Head to gff.co.uk/training to book.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

for delivering Mayor Sadiq Khan’s strategy and commitments on transport in London. In a stroke of nutritional naivety back in September, they banned an ad from Workspace, a commercial landlord, appearing on their network because it contained a picture of a Stithians cheese (and a pretty good, artisan cheese at that).

According to TfL, the picture could in some way entice children to consume food high in fat, sugar and salt. In their (slight) defence, they base their rulings on the model defined by the Food Standards Agency, and as we have mulled in this column previously, that definition is blunt, misleading and in my humble opinion, unfair and misinformed.

Stithians, from Lynher Dairies, is described as ‘naked Yarg’ and is a cows’ milk cheese, without the distinctive leaves, often matured for a little longer to achieve a more robust flavour and a flinty texture. It wasn’t entered in WCA this year but achieved a 2-star in

Great Taste back in August. It is therefore very good. Lyhner has a comprehensive environmental policy on its website, contributes to the local economy, employing local people and making cheese, simply and slowly from its own herd on its own ground in Cornwall.

I mustn’t be exposed to that as I sit on the Jubilee Line between Waterloo and London Bridge. But I can, of course, be tempted by

I can assure you, eaten little and often [cheese] will be good for your palate, body, soul, and planet.

UBER Eats.

I am tempted. A quick search on the website tells me that based on my SE1 postcode, I can make an order and get fast food fast from McDonalds on Tooley Street or KFC on Borough High Street.

I could also order a 10 pack of Budweiser on special offer, to wash away my concerns about ultraprocessed foods.

Edward Hancock, Cheesegeek and tenant of Workspace, runs a very tidy online subscription model, and was at the centre of this artisan cheese-gate. His team wasted quite a lot of time because of the ruling. Thankfully his time wasn’t wasted in Norway, judging, and then witnessing the crowning of Nidelven Blå.

You can read more about the virtues of artisan cheese and the World Champion on pages 22-31.

I can assure you, eaten little and often it will be good for your palate, body, soul, and planet.

Meanwhile, TfL will be serving you up a Big Mac.

The Word on Westminster

By Edward Woodall Association of Convenience Stores

THE DRAMATIC CABINET reshuffle resulting in the departure of Suella Braverman from the Home Office and the surprise return of former PM David Cameron has changed the Cabinet’s political alignment. This may further disrupt the Prime Minister’s run-in to the General Election, with more disunity from the right of the Conservative party.

The Supreme Court judgement on the plan to divert asylum seekers to Rwanda is also a blow to Rishi Sunak, on an issue he has made a priority on his electoral scorecard.

Nevertheless, the Government has made progress on its key objective to halve inflation. The Chancellor will be keen to capitalise on this and other positive economic indicators that suggest he may have more fiscal headroom at the Autumn Financial Statement.

By the time you read this column the Statement will be published, and the frenzied analysis of the new policies and economic forecast will be underway. I won’t attempt to make any predictions on what’s in it, instead I offer three tests to measure the Chancellor’s success based on the priorities of small grocery retailers.

The first test is action on business rates. There are two areas of importance: an extension to the retail and hospitality rate relief providing many businesses with a 75% discount in rates and a freeze on the multiplier that increases rates by inflation indexes.

Expect disquiet from the business community if no action is taken here.

The second test is a measured approach to rising cost of employment. We expect to see another large jump in the National Living Wage for the Government to meet its two-thirds of median earnings target, but this will

squeeze many retailers’ wage bills in an already tight labour market.

There needs to be support for businesses through changes to employ NICs thresholds, or an acknowledgement that future uprating’s of NLW will not go beyond existing targets.

The final test is the facilitation of business investment. Businesses will want some extension to the full expensing policy beyond the date of the next election. Full expensing of investments is only effective if it extends over longer periods to give businesses the confidence to invest in new expensive machinery like refrigeration units or vehicles. These are tough tests for the Chancellor to meet, but if he wants positive economic headwinds by the time the next election rolls round, these policy interventions will be important.

Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

VIEWPOINTS

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER

What do you reckon a typical shoplifter looks like? Not quite what you’d expect.

A farm shop owner I know told me their biggest thief (that they had caught, at least) was the wife of the local GP. Whole sides of smoked salmon, beef wellington for six, and bottles of wine were her favourites.

All packed into one of those nice green cloth bags and left near the exit. She picked it up on her way out after paying for the rest of her shopping. The thing is, once they suspected her, it was really easy to work out how she did it. They had full CCTV throughout and they meticulously tracked her around 5,000 square feet of farm shop.

The owner called the police.

They said they couldn’t prosecute without further evidence and suggested that they catch her in the act. So, the lady’s picture was distributed at the staff meeting and a secret code chosen for the intercom when she was spotted

entering the shop. It was all very dramatic. The owner took his van and blocked the exit to the car park and any chance of a smooth getaway in her Mercedes.

The farm shop team were ecstatic. There were whoops and high fives as the police car arrived.

The stolen goods were in the back of her car, they had full CCTV, and yet Old Bill still wouldn’t prosecute.

Our industry colleague was told to pursue a private prosecution. He

What will you do this Christmas if the shoplifting epidemic comes to your doors?

Eye on supply MARCUS CARTER OF THE ARTISAN FOOD CLUB SUGGESTS THAT YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE BIG TO BE SUCCESSFUL Plenty of producers out there will have heard me talk about putting a glass ceiling on your business.

I am a huge fan of low-volume, high-margin food businesses – operating with turnover of £80,000£120,000 a year. With one owner-operator (and part time help from a partner or friend), that business generates one income and stays at the same size indefinitely.

Provided the numbers stack up, there is no pressure for an owner to grow the business any more than they feel comfortable with.

But issues emerge, I find, when independent producers start talking about supplying supermarkets or, more likely, other people suggest they should supply the supermarkets. In these conversations, much of the focus is on the product – how much better it is than anything else currently on multiples’ shelves – and very little emphasis is put on the big changes it will require of the producer and its owner.

Upscaling and finding a facility to house production and a bigger team of 5, 10, or 20-plus

didn’t.

Now, this friend of mind brings all the no-nonsense and 24-7 commitment of a dirty-nailed farmer to running the shop. So, he was angry and was left feeling like he should have made the kind of off-the-books intervention he might make if he discovered hare coursing in his back fields.

What would you have done?

What will you do this Christmas if the warned-of shoplifting epidemic comes to your doors? It’s probably not a rough sleeper or a career criminal feeling up your Christmas multi-pack pack of premium chutneys or that case of Château Miraval. It’s much more likely a representative of the middle class.

And the police will do nothing.

If the theft is worth £200 or less, you have to have a guilty plea, too.

I’m not saying it can’t be done. But, if my tough farming friend can’t make it stick, then what hope is there for the rest of us?

Always keep your high-value items out of arms’ reach and the alcohol in your sightline. Train up your team, and make it personal for them as if stealing from you is stealing from them. And get some decent CCTV. Paint it red, make it flash and hang an elf on it. Like retail in general, subtlety is not the name of the game.

people takes an immense amount of skill and effort. The there are HR policies, recruitment, training and company handbooks to think about as well as managing pay roll, holidays and sick days.

What about the physical changes from handmade product to something that hits the retail price point the supermarket will demand?

Even once you’ve cracked this, you’ll have to come up with more. Launching with five products and thinking they will stay on the shelf indefinitely is a bit like starting a fire and never putting any more wood on.

I have seen first-hand how this can take its toll on the mental health of small business owners.

Burnout is a very real threat in this situation.

Yes, there’s a culture in the food industry that puts very successful brands on a pedestal and encourages everybody to be as successful as them.

But you are not a failure if you choose not to go into the supermarkets, or even if you choose not to go beyond your own postcode.

Please do not think for one minute I am saying your company cannot be listed with six distributors, supply five supermarket chains, have a strong international arm and a D2C website generating serious sales. You can aim for that if that is your dream.

Just stop for a second and think about whether any kind of expansion is really for you – personally or professionally. Not all successes are about scale.

4.6%

was the official UK inflation rate in the year to

October This was down from

6.7% the month before

and from a peak of

11.1%

in October 2022.

Source: Office for National Statistics

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR MORE?

Whether it’s staff training, business advice, event space, making industry connections or opportunities to meet trade buyers and food lovers, the Guild of Fine Food does far more than publish FFD. The Guild has been championing independent food & drink for over 30 years. Join us today and find out what we can do for your business.

Support & ideas: support@gff.co.uk Training & venue hire: bookings@gff.co.uk Exhibition stands: opportunities@gff.co.uk MyGuild assistance: myguild@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk/join

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

11

This is Food and Drink.

This is Wales.

Wales has a long and proud tradition of producing outstanding food and drink, shaped by the Welsh landscape and honed by Wales’s culture, language and people.

Now, that is comfort food for thought… gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

f FoodDrinkWales 12

@FoodDrinkWales

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

F&DW_DPS_Fine Food Digest_Dec_PRINT.indd 1

Food_Drink_Wales

l Bwyd a Diod Cymru | Food and Drink Wales

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

13

08/11/2023 14:50

Handmade on our family farm in West Cork Ireland.

Durrus Óg www.durruscheese.com

14

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

email: office@durruscheese.com

CHEESE

The Cheese Merchant appoints administrators following closure

By Patrick McGuigan

Wholesaler The Cheese Merchant has gone into administration due to cashflow issues as the hospitality sector continues to struggle in the cost-of-living crisis.

The company, which was founded by former chef George Lang in 2017 and supplied restaurants in London and the South East, was forced to close in October. In a heartfelt message sent to customers, Lang blamed cashflow problems linked to a decline in sales during Covid, bad debts caused by customers closing and big increases in energy and wage costs.

Attempts to secure new investment or a buyer

were unsuccessful, before administrator KRE Corporate Recovery was appointed. The Cheese Merchant moved from Somerset to new premises at Laverstoke Park Farm in Hampshire last year and employed around 15 people.

The closure highlights how difficult trading conditions are for many cheese businesses, especially those that supply the hospitality sector, which is under severe pressure because of the cost-of-living crisis.

Figures from UKHospitality in November showed that 38% of hospitality venues failed to make a profit in the fourth quarter of 2023 as people eat out less and inflation continues to impact businesses.

One cheese wholesaler,

which supplies restaurants, told FFD he had seen a sharp rise in late payments in the foodservice sector, forcing him to introduce new payment terms.

“Chasing payments from restaurants has always been an issue, but things have got worse this year,” he said.

“We were hit when one of our customers went into liquidation earlier this year owing us £9k, so we’re much stricter about payment now.

I’m having to spend more time chasing payments and keeping on top of the books to make sure cashflow is okay. It’s very stressful.”

Another cheese wholesaler told FFD that sales to restaurants were flat this year, but when inflation was taken into account, there had been a fall in volumes. “Some restaurants don’t offer a cheese course at all anymore because cheese seems expensive compared to flour, eggs and sugar for making a dessert.”

He added that he refused to supply restaurants that demanded 60-day payment terms. “We are very strict with our bookkeeping and one of our requirements is payment within 30 days. We simply don’t supply businesses that expect longer payment terms.”

Online cheesemonger The Cheese Geek has launched a crowdfunding campaign on Crowdcube to raise £350k for projects including new digital technology, increased fulfilment capacities and new packaging.

Wholesaler Rowcliffe has launched a new French cheese from Isigny Sainte-Mère.

Tomme de Normandie is an uncooked pressed cheese with a mild, fruity flavour, matured for three to five months.

L’Etivaz Named after after a small town in the Swiss Alps, L’Etivaz AOP is a taste of how Gruyère used to be made. It is made using raw summer milk in copper cauldrons hung over open fires. The 1535kg wheels are aged for around a year and the flavours are complex with intense sweet, smoky and savoury notes.

Fondue Fondue is a staple of chalet life, but Etivaz cheesemakers have their own unique recipe, according to an excellent article

by US magazine, Saveur. Instead of using garlic and wine, they melt the grated cheese in double cream over a low heat, stirring regularly to stop it splitting. Chunks of crusty bread are then stirred into the molten cheese so they are part of the dish.

Chasselas A classic pairing for fondue, but also with Etivaz on a cheeseboard, Chasselas (the name of the grape and the wine) is a relatively low-acid white wine from Switzerland with a creamy texture and a refreshing minerality. Look for aged Chasselas, which takes on nutty and honey notes after five years.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Sixty firefighters tackled a large blaze at Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses’ office and packing site in Longridge, Lancashire, last month. Nobody was injured in the fire and the company continues to make cheese at its dairy in Inglewhite.

THREE WAYS WITH...

Welsh sheep’s cheese producer Cosyn Cymru has been named Best Food Producer in the UK at the BBC Food and Farming Awards.

Cheesemaker Carrie Rimes, who has recently moved to a new dairy in Llaethdy Gwyn, is best known for the soft, wrinkly rinded Brefu Bach (Little Bleat). She was presented with the award, which “honours those who have done most to promote the cause of good food”, by broadcaster Sheila Dillon and restaurateur Thomasina Miers at a ceremony in Newport.

Charcuterie There are intense fruity and umami flavours to Etivaz, which veer into smokiness (perhaps from the open fires), so smoked charcuterie is a fail-safe match.

Try Speck Alto Adige – a lightly spiced, gently smoked ham from the mountains of the South Tyrol. The thinly sliced, elastic charcuterie has a delicate flavour that in with the complex notes of the cheese.

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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CHEESE

King Stone expands Manor Farm dairy and introduces new cheeses

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE Leo Wirtz, L’Affinage du Fromage, Westbury Park, Bristol

By Patrick McGuigan

King Stone Dairy has doubled its production capacity and is launching new hard cheeses after opening a second dairy at Manor Farm in Chedworth, Gloucestershire.

Cheesemaker David Jowett has taken over a second site on the farm, which is dedicated to making hard cheese using two vats previously used by Jasper Hill in the US where Jowett once trained. The original dairy will focus on soft cheeses, including Rollright and Yarlington.

The expansion will increase production space to 5,000 sq ft and will double capacity from the current 50 tonnes a year, enabling the business to take 100% of the farm’s milk. A new 3,000sq ft maturation space is also being constructed.

Two new cheeses are being launched, including Burford – a semi-hard washed rind Appenzeller-style cheese, which comes in 6kg wheels and is aged for six months. It is named after a nearby village.

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Harbourne Blue What’s the story?

Harbourne Blue is one of very few goats’ milk blue cheeses in the UK and is made by Ben Harris and his team at Ticklemore Dairy in Devon. Originally set up in the 1970s, when UK blue cheese was mostly associated with Stilton, British cheese pioneer Robin Congdon developed three blue cheeses. He focused his efforts on a Roquefortstyle cheese, building “caves” like the ones used to mature blue 16

One of two new cheeses by David Jowett at King Stone Dairy, Burford is named after a medieval village in the Cotwolds

“Manor Farm is one of the oldest organic farms in the UK with herbal leys and complex pastures rich in flowers, herbs and grasses,” said brand ambassador Sam Wilkin. “We deliberately wanted to capture that summer milk in the cheese.”

Jowett is also developing an Ossau-Iraty-style sheep’s milk cheese called Bibury, using milk from the flock previously owned by Berkswell producer

cheese in France. Using a similar recipe and technique to Roquefort, Robin created Beenleigh Blue, before doing the same, only using goats’ milk for Harbourne Blue and cows’ milk for Devon Blue. In 2002, Ben took over as head cheesemaker at Ticklemore and now runs the business.

Harbourne Blue is named after a tributary of the River Dart that runs through the village of Beenleigh, uses pasteurised milk from a mix of Toggenburg, Saanen and Alpine goats, sourced from the Lewis’ family farm in Wellington, Somerset.

Milk: Goats’, pasteurised.

How is it made?

After adding vegetarian rennet and cutting the curd to 2cm, it is stirred in the whey, which stops the

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

Ram Hall Dairy. As reported in FFD last month, Ram Hall has now closed and Berkswell is no longer being made. The sheep have been sold to BlackLion Vodka in the Cotswolds, which will use whey left over from Jowett’s new cheese to make vodka.

King Stone has also developed new branding for its labels, packaging and website. The new designs were developed by Saltwood Studio.

L’Affinage has only been open a year, but owners Leo and Louise Wirtz have hit the ground running after running a cheese stall at Whiteladies Road Farmers’ Market for 10 years.

“We learned a lot from the market and it’s helped us grow organically,” he says.

“We could test products and get a feel for what works. When we opened the shop, we didn’t advertise but a lot of regular customers found us.”

For several years, the couple have also run an online cheese business at a unit they use for tastings. “They were so popular, we realised we had to open a shop. And we knew we needed space for tastings, so we built our counter on wheels so it can be moved.”

Advertising for their online business also helped the couple choose the site.

“Data on who responds to online ads showed we were popular with women with iPhones who loved books. The new premises was previously a book shop, which had outgrown the space, so that was a good sign. People who like books like cheese.” laffinage.co.uk cheeses are spicier and more powerful.

Variations: None. A whole Harbourne Blue weighs approximately 3kg.

curd from sticking together and during maturation allows the Penicillium roqueforti moulds to grow in the cavities. The curds are then transferred to a draining table, where they are moulded by hand. The young cheeses are dry salted over two days and on day six spiked, top and bottom. After three weeks, they are wrapped in foil to prevent rind growth, and matured slowly at low temperatures for anywhere from three to 12 months.

Appearance & texture: This low and slow maturation process helps to develop the complex flavours of the cheese, which can be quite variable in taste and texture depending on the season.

Young cheeses are sweet and mild with a crumbly texture, pale paste and light blue veining, while older

Cheesemonger tip: This is a great gateway cheese; its subtle goat flavours are perfect for anyone unsure about either goat or blue cheeses. Wonderful crumbled over a pear salad with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

Chef’s recommendation: Pair Harbourne Blue with a sparking elderflower juice or a sweet dessert wine like Sauternes or Oloroso and figs in syrup.

Harbourne Blue is one of the 200 cheeses studied as part of the Academy of Cheese Level Three certification. For more information on this and all of their courses, visit academyofcheese.org

GRUYERE.COM

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CHEESE We were making milk that was so creamy.

We had to add value.

Switching to organic growth The Lee family’s decision to try out chemical-free farming gave birth to the Torpenhow cheese operation

By Patrick McGuigan

IT WAS A fault with a sprayer that convinced Mark and Jenny Lee to embrace organic farming, and eventually led to them making award-winning cheeses.

The couple had sprayed one of the fields at their 350-acre family farm in Torpenhow, Cumbria with weed killer. Except the nozzle was clogged and only certain stretches were sprayed. “When the cows went out, we noticed they were grazing in straight lines,” explains Mark Lee. “They were stepping over the strips that had been sprayed to get to the bits we’d missed. It was a lightbulb moment.”

After much soul searching, the couple decided to stop using chemicals and go fully organic. After a tricky first year when grass yields plunged, they bounced back as the soil began to regenerate. “The soil had gone into cold turkey, but we planted herbal lays with white clover, legumes, plantain, and it started to heal itself. We’re now producing more grass than we did before and we’re not using tonnes of expensive fertiliser.”

It was a bold decision considering their backgrounds. Jenny had worked as a teacher for much of her life, while Lee had no farming experience at all, having previously played professional rugby, before joining the army and training as a solicitor. They moved to Jenny’s family farm in 2011 and decided that they wanted to change the existing model of highyielding Holsteins, which were kept indoors for much of the year, switching instead to a less intensive, outdoor grazing system. “We had to change our mindset,” says Lee. After “difficult conversations” with Jenny’s

father, who had spent his life building up the 400-strong herd, the Holsteins were sold at auction and were replaced with 170 hardier Jersey-Friesian cows. These are outside for 300 days a year and are mob-grazed from paddock to paddock giving the soil time to recover. The business is the only Pasture for Life registered farm in the county.

The move to organic was eventually completed in 2019 with the intention of getting a higher price for the milk. Except organic dairy cooperative Omsco wasn’t taking on new suppliers at the time. That’s when cheese became the obvious answer. “We were making milk that was so good and creamy, but it was just going to the tanker with everyone else’s. We had to add value.”

Experienced cheese teacher Cathy Biss helped them get started, before the Torpenhow Farmhouse Dairy was set up, making cheddar and a blue, before softer cheeses were added, including the brie-style Darling Howe, which won three stars at this year’s Great Taste.

“Our milk is so class we’ve won awards almost in spite of us,” he laughs. “We have so much to learn when it comes to cheesemaking.

That’s what we love about it. We’re looking at raw milk and have been getting advice from cheesemaker Thornby Moor (near Carlisle), who are so passionate about raw milk.”

Almost half of Torpenhow’s cheeses are sold at farmer’s markets, with the rest going to local retailers, such as Cranstons, Cartmel Cheeses and Tebay Services. Discussions are also taking place with national wholesalers and the couple recently welcomed 15 staff from the three-Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume, where their cheese is served.

“Having them championing us is pretty amazing. And winning three stars at Great Taste is huge for us. They’re an affirmation of quality and that we’re on the right track.”

CROSS

SECTION

Darling Howe 1 Torpenhow currently produces around

25 tonnes across six cheeses: Binsey Red, Trusmadoor (a crumbly style), Darling Howe, The Monarch blue, Park House Cheddar and an oak-smoked cheddar.

2

3

Darling Howe, which is named after one of the fields of the farm, was first launched in 2021.

Made with pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet in 230g rounds, the cheese has a pristine white rind and buttery interior which becomes softer and more vegetal with age.

The cheese is matured for at least three weeks.

Park House Farm does not produce milk all year round. The cows are dried off in late December and don’t start producing milk again until March, so production focuses on hard cheeses in the early spring and summer, and softer cheeses in the late summer and autumn when the milk is particularly creamy.

torpenhoworganic.co.uk

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

19

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese,

with its delicious flavour and unique characteristics, is still produced in Italy today as it was almost 1000 years ago using only three ingredients; milk, salt and rennet.

This Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O) cheese is 100% natural, additive and preservative free, with a long ageing period that develops its aromas and complexity over time.

100% NATURAL, ADDITIVE AND PRESERVATIVE FREE

NATURALLY LACTOSE FREE

RICH IN CALCIUM AND SOURCE OF PHOSPHORUS* *A 25g serving contains respectively 36% and 24% of the daily requirement of calcium and phosphorus for an adult following a healthy and balanced diet of 2,000 kcal.

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WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2023-24

Northern highlights

PRINCIPAL GLOBAL PARTNERS

On 27th October, The Trondheim Spektrum arena in Norway was host to the 35th edition of the World Cheese Awards. The event received a record number of entries, with cheeses arriving from 43 countries. Find out about the major winners, including the Academy of Cheese’s Young Cheesemonger of the Year, and read our interview with the makers of the World Champion Cheese in this special report.

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox Photos by Håkon Borgen

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

This year’s World Champion Cheese drew rapturous applause and even tears from the crowd at the World Cheese Awards, and that was because the soft blue cheese is made just two hours from Trondheim – by the first family to apply to make farmhouse cheese in Norway 25 years ago.

Named after the Trøndelag county river, Nidelven Blå is made by fourth generation farmers, husband and wife Maren and Ole Gangstad at Gangstad Gårdsysteri.

The handmade, cows’ milk blue cheese is aged for six to nine months, and is already their best-selling cheese, in part thanks to its successes at previous World Cheese Awards: it won the Best Norwegian cheese and a Super Gold in 2019.

The 35th edition of the unique cheese-only competition – organised by the Guild of Fine Food and first held in 1988 – took place in Trondheim, Norway, on Friday, 27th October.

This year saw a record number of entries –

4,502 cheeses from 43 countries – which were judged by an international panel of 264 judges from 38 nations. These included some of the most knowledgeable professionals in the cheese industry, as well as food journalists, retail buyers and experts in other food categories, to make sure the cheeses were rigourously assessed.

During the first part of the judging process, the cheeses were given scores on the basis of taste, aroma, flavour and texture, and attributed a score out of 100, determining whether they were worthy of a bronze, silver or gold medal.

This year’s super jury of 16 experts – including longstanding WCA judge Cathy Strange of Whole Foods Market and newcomers such as Ana Belén of González Pinõs in Spain; Aki Sakagami of The Cheese Association in Japan, and Georgina Yescas, CEO at artisanal Mexican retail & wholesale operation Lactography – then tasted the 100 Super Gold cheeses, each selecting their favourite for a

final round of judging.

Among these 16 cheeses, there were two from the UK, three from Italy, two from the Netherlands, two from Switzerland, two – incidentally, by the same maker – from Germany, and single cheeses from India, Austria, Belgium and host country, Norway.

Finbar Deery of Sheridans Cheesemongers in Ireland, who was on the super jury for the first time this year and selected the winning cheese as his favourite – said he “absolutely loved” it, namely for the interplay between milk and blue flavours.

“It’s not getting barrelled over by the penicillin, there’s something else going on,” he said.

“The texture was the first thing that hit home. It has this short creaminess and a real dense fudginess.”

He added that a strong point in its favour was that it has a slight bitterness. “We don’t appreciate bitterness in cheese – but when you

WCA IN NUMBERS The 35TH WORLD CHEESE AWARDS saw record-breaking entries 4,502, from 43 countries.

90 tables filled one of the halls at the

Spektrum in Trondheim, Norway, in partnership with Norsk Gardsost, Oi! and Hanan.

The entries were then judged in a two and a half hour session by an international panel of 264 judges from 38 nations, to determine whether they were worthy of a World Cheese Award medal.

2121 entries achieved an award this year, including 90 Super Golds, 344 Golds, 731 Silvers and 935 Bronzes.

Full results at gff.co.uk/wca

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

23

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2023-24 have such a rich texture, the bitterness comes through and it keeps the whole show on the road.”

Meanwhile, Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand said it made him “incredibly proud” to have a Norwegian winner for the third time, after the country’s success in 2016 and 2018, calling it “a testament to the care and effort that has been invested by the Norwegian artisan cheese trade”.

The World Champion Cheese was announced at 5pm on the day, with the Bronze, Silver and Gold medals revealed on Saturday, and trophies celebrating the best in region and style announced on the following Monday.

Among them, Norton and Yarrow’s lactic Sinodun Hill took the top trophy for Britain, while a soft pasteurised sheep’s cheese – Goustal la Bergère from Société des Caves – was named Best French cheese. The Best Cheddar was Ireland’s Mount Leinster Clothbound from Coolattin Cheddar, which was also given the title of Best Irish Cheese. The Best New Cheese award was a Norwegian-style Brunost made by Cheese Store in Japan.

The event was held alongside the Oste-VM festival – a trade conference and consumer event all about cheese. The public were given access to the venue, allowing them to see the judging arena, and visit exhibitors at the World Cheese Market.

HOW THE JUDGING WORKS Judges work in teams of two or three, identifying any cheeses worthy of a Bronze, Silver or Gold award. They assess the look, feel, smell and taste of each entry, scoring aspects such as the appearance of the rind and paste as well as the cheese’s aroma, body and texture, with the majority of points awarded for flavour and mouthfeel.

Each team then nominates one exceptional cheese as the Super Gold from their table.

These cheeses are the best in the world and are judged a second time by the Super Jury of 16 internationally recognised experts, who each select a cheese to champion in the final round of judging.

The Super Jury, representing all four corners of the globe, then debates the final 16 in front of a live consumer and trade audience, before choosing the World Champion Cheese live on WCA TV.

You can rewatch the World Cheese Awards on WCA TV at gff.co.uk/ awards/world-cheeseawards alongside highlights, results and key information about the competition.

BEST AMERICAN CHEESE Harbison Jasper Hill jasperhillfarm.com

24

BEST AUSTRALIAN CHEESE

C2 Bruny Island Cheese Co. brunyislandcheese.com. au

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

BEST AUSTRIAN CHEESE

Kärntnermilch Mölltaler Almkäse Selektion 50% F.i.T. Kärntnermilch kaerntnermilch.at

BEST BRITISH CHEESE

Sinodun Hill Norton and Yarrow Cheese nortonandyarrow.co.uk

BEST IRISH CHEESE Mount Leinster Clothbound Coolattin Cheddar coolattincheddar.ie

GOLD AWARD

GREAT TASTING CHEESE FROM FIFE “utterly delicious”… “very moreish cheese’’ …“deeply satisfying’’… “outstanding’’

FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO PLACE AN ORDER, PLEASE E-MAIL TODAY!

01333 312580 info@standrewscheese.co.uk

Pasture fed, single herd organic cheese from our farmhouse dairy in Cumbria

www.torpenhoworganic.co.uk Smoked Park House

Park House Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

25

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO: TRADITION BECOMES INNOVATION From the heart of the Reggio Emilia Apennines comes a product of the finest quality. At our mountain cheese dairies we follow the artisan method to offer a complete range in all its different ageing properties. In doing this, we always push ourselves one step further, seeking innovation in tradition, especially when it comes to animal welfare, which is why our entire supply chain is sustainable and certified according to the Classyfarm protocol.

TERRITO

RY PROJ

ECT

IN MOUNTA CT PRODU

Find out more at dalterfood.com 26

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

TERRITO

RY PROJ

ECT

IN MOUNTA CT PRODU

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2023-24 WCA 2016 WINNER CELEBRATED FOR HIS EXCEPTIONAL CONTRIBUTION TO CHEESE Gunnar Waagen from Tingvollost was honoured with the Exceptional Contribution to Cheese trophy for 2023, for his efforts to raise the profile of Norwegian artisan cheeses.

Waagen’s Kraftkar blue won the title of World Champion Cheese at the awards in San Sebastiàn in 2016, as well as the Champion of Champions trophy, triumphing over 21 former winners.

Waagen tells FFD this led to “fantastic coverage and widespread enthusiasm in Norway”.

“Then the Norwegian cheese revolution started!”

Tingvollost was established in 2003 in the Tingvoll municipality, two hours south of Trondheim.

The Waagens started

making cheese in 2006, then won a Gold medal at WCA in 2011. They expanded to their current capacity in 2019, and now produce about 32 tonnes a year.

They were the only Norwegian entrants in WCA until 2015 (in contrast, in 2023, 296 cheeses were submitted by 71 cheesemakers).

Tingvollost’s three other pasteurised cows’ milk cheeses - Mild Mester (a white mould, semi-soft); Edel Frue (a Camembertstyle) and Vismann (a mild blue) – have all won multiple medals at the WCA in previous years.

They have also received other accolades at the Nordiske Ostefestival and the Norwegian Cheese

Championship – organised

by Norsk Gardsost, which represents the country’s artisan cheese sector, and partnered with the Guild of Fine Food to help organise this year’s World Cheese Awards.

Waagen says Norsk Gardost, of which he is now a chairman, “has preserved Norwegian cheese traditions and raised the bar of professional production by increasing knowledge sharing”.

He is also full of praise for competitions like the WCA for giving the Norwegian cheese industry visibility. The key to the sector’s success has been “to work together to show the world how good Norwegian cheese is”. tingvollost.no

NORTON AND YARROW’S SINODUN HILL NAMED 2023’S BEST BRITISH CHEESE

BRITISH SUPER GOLDS • Wigmore, Village Maid Cheese • Devon Blue, Ticklemore Cheese • Allerdale, Thornby Moor Dairy • Cornish Kern, Lynher Dairies Cheese Company • Sinodun Hill, Norton and Yarrow

BEST ITALIAN CHEESE

Parmigiano Reggiano 3039 Months Nazionale Parmigiano Reggiano Rastelli Fratelli caseificiorastelli.it

Norton and Yarrow’s iconic pyramid cheese, Sinodun Hill, was crowned Best British Cheese at the World Cheese Awards 2023.

The soft, mould-ripened pasteurised goats’ milk cheese, with a Geotrichum rind is made with “a minimum” of cultures and vegetarian rennet to give centre stage to the milk, and matured for 1 to 3 weeks.

Named after the Wittenham Clumps, a pair of wooded chalk hills in Oxfordshire, it isn’t the first time the cheese is celebrated at the World Cheese Awards, as it won Best Artisan Cheese in the World Cheese Awards in 2022.

A total of 99 British cheeses won an award this year – including five Super Golds, 19 Golds, 35 Silvers and 40 Bronzes.

Just two made it into the final 16, however: Sinodun Hill, and Village Maid’s soft ewes’ milk cheese, Wigmore.

BEST JAPANESE CHEESE

Tokyo Brown Cheese Cheese Stand cheese-stand.com

BEST LATIN AMERICAN CHEESE Morro Azul Pomerode Alimentos pomerodealimentos. com.br

BEST NORWEGIAN CHEESE Nidelven Blå Gangstad Gårdsysteri ysteri.no

BEST SOUTH AFRICAN CHEESE Simonsberg Gouda 6 Months Lactalis South Africa lactalis.co.za

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2023-24 21-YEAR-OLD LILY MORRIS WINS YOUNG CHEESEMONGER OF THE YEAR This year marked the second time the finals of the Academy of Cheese’s Young Cheesemonger of the Year took place on the same day as the World Cheese Awards.

The winner was Lily Morris from Morris’s of Usk Garden Centre and Nurseries. She was one of six finalists invited to take part and undertake four rounds – a presentation of a cheeseboard selection, a demonstration of ‘cut & wrap’ skills, a cheese identification round using the Strategic Approach to Tasting Cheese, and a quiz.

The judging panel was made up of Keith Kendrick of BBC Good Food & Olive magazine; Hero Hirsh, head of retail at Paxton & Whitfield, Galina Danard, cheese educator and member of the Guilde Internationale des Fromagers and Andy Swinscoe, owner of The Courtyard Dairy.

As part of winning the competition, Morris was invited to

the Judges Dinner on the Friday evening, earned a spot to judge at the WCA in 2024, and the opportunity to take on an Academy of Cheese course – level 3, in her case, as she has already completed her level 2.

Morris, who has been selling cheese at her family’s shop for six years, said she was “honoured” to have won the award, adding: “It was the best day, surrounded by thousands of tasty cheeses and lots of lovely people.

“The award has inspired me to continue my cheese career, selling and educating others about artisan cheese, and most importantly, it has reminded me to keep spreading the message that it doesn’t matter who you are, if you have a passion for something, go and do it.

“You never know what doors it will open for you, and that’s so exciting.” academyofcheese.org

THE TOP 16 SUPER GOLD CHEESES Gangstad Gårdsysteri, Nidelven Blå, Norway (Score: 102) ysteri.no

5 Käserei Müller-Thurgau Müller-Thurgau Rezent Switzerland (Score: 95) mueller-thurgau.ch

9 Westland Kaasexport Old Amsterdam Goat Netherlands (Score: 91) westlandkaas.nl

2 Baliehof Kaas en Zuivelboerderij Jabbeke, Baliehof Houtlandse Asche kaas, Belgium (Score: 100) baliehof.be

6 Kärntnermilch Kärntnermilch Mölltaler Almkäse Selektion 50% FiT Austria (Score: 94) kaerntnermilch.at

10 Nazionale Parmigiano Reggiano Rastelli Fratelli Parmigiano Reggiano 30-39 Months Italy (Score: 90) caseificiorastelli.it

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3 Dorfkäserei Muolen Eberle würzig seit 5 Generationen Switzerland (Score: 97) kaeserei-muolen.ch

8 Van der Heiden Kaas Holland Delta, 1 Year Old Netherlands (Score: 93) vanderheidenkaas.nl

4 Vivanda Gourmet Eleftheria Brunost India (Score: 95) eleftheriacheese.com

BEST SPANISH CHEESE

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BEST SWISS CHEESE

Soft cheese Capricho Homenaje Formatgeria Granja Rinya granjarinya.com 28

7 Rohmilchkäserei Backensholz Michel Germany (Score: 94) backensholz.de

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

Eberle würzig seit 5 Generationen Dorfkäserei Muolen kaeserei-muolen.ch

Одноколірний логотип

13 Société des Caves Goustal La Bergère France (Score: 85) 14 La Bufalara Pirano Italy (Score: 85) barlotti.it

15 Romagna Terre Lamucca di Castagno Italy (Score: 81) 11 Rohmilchkäserei Backensholz romagnaterre.it Deichkäse Gold Germany (Score: 89) 16 Village Maid Cheese backensholz.de Wigmore United Kingdom (Score: 77) 12 Norton and Yarrow Cheese villagemaidcheese.co.uk Sinodun Hill United Kingdom (Score: 88) nortonandyarrow.co.uk

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Exclusive to Rowcliffe Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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Congratulation to the winners of the World Cheese Awards!

Super Gold - Eberle würzig (No. 1409) Gold - Aletsch Raclette (No. 1789) Silver - Eberle Junior (No. 1853) Silver - Nachtwächter würzig (No. 2597) Silver - Langenegger Dorfkäse (No. 2647) The award is a symbol that hard work and passion that cheesemakers put in every day pays off.

For further informations please contact. +49 731 962420 verkauf@jaeckle-ulm.de www.jaeckle-kaese.de

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

cheese ripening and wholesaler

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2023-24

Meet the winners: Gangstad Gårdsysteri FOR SPECTATORS AND the organisers of events like the World Cheese Awards, there is always a hope that the winners might be in the crowd – but with entries coming in from the far reaches of the world, it’s not worth betting on.

The Gangstad Gårdsysteri team was, however, attending the awards at the Spektrum indoor arena in Trondheim this year – as the owners, second generation cheesemakers and fourth generation farmers Maren and Ole Gangstad tell FFD. Their farm is a mere two-hour drive away,

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and it seemed like a good opportunity for them to witness the event.

“It was a work trip to get some experience, talk to other dairies and cheese producers in Norway and just to experience it. And did we!” says Maren.

Although their winning cheese, Nidelven Blå, was awarded a Super Gold and named Best Norwegian Cheese in 2019, and Norwegian cheeses had already taken the top title twice in recent years – Tingvollost’s Kraftkar in 2016, and Ostegården’s Fanaost in 2018 – they never would

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have guessed theirs would claim the winning spot this year.

“We haven’t really had the time to let it sink in,” Maren says, as sales for all of their cheeses have gone through the roof. “We’re all just still looking at each other and smiling and shaking our heads over what’s going on.”

Luckily, they had already been in the process of growing their output capacity before this victory. They recently built a new cowshed which will allow them to almost double the number of milking cows they own from 40 to 70, and to make cheese solely with their own milk, as they currently buy a proportion from the Tine dairy consortium.

The new cowshed also improves on the welfare conditions for the cows, giving them more space and keeping calves with them, “but also for the welfare of the team,” says Maren. Having the World Champion Cheese is significant for the crew of 12, which Maren describes as tightly knit.

When the farm dairy was set up by Ole’s mother, Astrid Gangstad, 25 years ago, it was the first in Norway to seek authorisation to produce cheese from their own cows’ milk, and Astrid was instrumental in defining health and safety laws relating to cheesemaking in Norway. This has earned her some fame within the cheese community – helping to explain the rapturous response when Nidelven Blå was crowned the winner.

“Gunnar [Waagen, the maker of 2016 World Champion, Kraftkar] shed some tears for us.

There is a big community that are happy for us, who understand that this is a good thing for all of us making cheese in Norway.

“We are colleagues, not competitors. We share experiences and we visit each other and if have trouble we talk to each other. It’s not like we keep secrets from each other - we work together.”

The couple hope their success will help improve Norwegian cheese’s status on the world stage, as well as serving to encourage Norwegians to eat more local cheese.

“Norwegians import a lot of cheese,” says Ole. “A lot of people still think that Italian, French, Swiss, have higher quality than Norwegian cheese - it’s kind of an old hang-up.”

Once the dust has settled, they might consider exporting their cheese, but for the time being, they’re prioritising existing customers.

“We are getting a lot of exciting requests from Barcelona, Italy, from England, from all around the world. It’s something that we were considering already before this, but now, if we’re able to increase our production, we will look back into it.” ysteri.no

THE ANN-MARIE DYAS AWARD FOR BEST ARTISAN CHEESE Lamucca di Castagno Romagna Terre romagnaterre.it

BEST FEMALE CHEESEMAKERS

The cheesemakers of Gangstad Gårdsysteri led by Maren Gangstad and Astrid Aasen ysteri.no

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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S: 4 SE 02 LO 2 C Y Y AR TR RU EN EB F

6

Award-winning food and drink for independent retailers OPEN FOR ENTRY Members’ fortnight

8-22 January

General entry

22 January-6 February

For more information visit gff.co.uk/ greattaste or scan the QR code to sign up for entry alerts

Do you work with brilliant producers? Make sure they enter this year. gff.co.uk/greattaste | greattasteawards.co.uk | #greattasteawards #ISpyGreatTaste

DEVON BLUE WINS SUPER GOLD SECOND YEAR IN A ROW Along with Beenleigh Blue receiving Silver and Blue Bay Bronze!

Ticklemore Cheese Ltd did superbly well at the World Cheese Awards.

Please see our website for Suppliers and Stockists

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Cheese from the rolling hills of West Wicklow For over 20 years we’ve been producing our fresh Raw Milk Cheddar. Made from creamy morning milk, from our own grass-fed cows. And crafted to an artisan recipe. Pasture to cheddar the same day. Enjoy our Mature, Leinster or Smoked cheddars aged to perfection.

For information on all our products log on to:

coolattincheddar.ie Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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Little bag.

Lots of cake.

For homemade cakes just add water, a little oil and your imagination.

For great ideas why not join the Wright’s Home Baking Club Or visit our website www.wrightsflour.co.uk

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Manufacturers of depositors & filling machines for the food production industry Tel: 01282 440040 info@riggsautopack.co.uk www.riggsautopack.co.uk 34

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

FOODSERVICE INGREDIENTS & EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN ONION & ALE SOUP WITH CHEDDAR TOASTS Makes 2 portions, multiply as required Ingredients: 2 large onions 40g unsalted butter 150ml brown ale 600ml chicken stock 6 diagonal slices of baguette 100g grated mature Cheddar 1 garlic clove, peeled Salt and pepper Method: • Peel and finely slice the onions.

Melt the butter in a heavy based pan, add the onions, a generous pinch of salt and pepper and sweat, covered, over a low heat, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes – until well softened.

Remove the lid and

cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring frequently until golden and caramelised.

• Add the ale and cook until almost all has evaporated. Add the chicken stock, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Set aside to infuse for 30 minutes. Toast the baguette slices, rub each with the garlic clove and top generously with cheese. Place under a hot grill until melted. Heat up the soup, transfer to a bowl and add the Cheddar toasts.

Recipe by Phil Howard www.elystanstreet.com www.unionmontalbert.com Photography by Romas Foord for The Times

Cocoa Canopy’s 900g foodservice pouches have been given a refresh. The hot chocolate beads, which are also available in 1.35kg catering packs and 10kg reusable tubs, now come in plastic free, resealable bags, with a brand new design. Each of the Rich Dark, single origin Ecuador Dark, Milk & Dark, Smooth Milk and Salted Caramel products range in cocoa percentage from 35-70%. cocoacanopy.co.uk Specialist ingredients supplier Henley Bridge is now the exclusive distributor for Prova Gourmet in the UK. A French company, Prova Gourmet imports, makes and sells a range of vanilla beans, extracts, powders and pastes, along with a selection of coffee extracts and caramel flavours – for makers of ice cream, chocolate and baked goods. hbingredients.co.uk Duke Manufacturing’s new Ready Flex hot holding cabinets are now available in the UK via Jestic. The manufacturer says the stainless steel cabinets were designed so as to transition and keep different items at the right temperature, maintaining serving texture and minimising moisture loss. The cabinets come with two separate heat functions on each of the shelves, and pan sizes in ½, 1/3 and full-sized. dukemfg.com

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Castile and León

Gold rush

It was another bumper year for cheesemakers from Castile and Léon at this year’s World Cheese Awards with an impressive haul of medals, but what does it take to win gold?

CHEESES FROM 43 countries were entered into this year’s World Cheese Awards in Trondheim, Norway, but there was one nation that won more awards than any other. While France is seen by many as the spiritual home of cheese, it was actually Spanish cheeses that took home the most medals - 564 of them to be precise, with a remarkable 17 Super Golds – again more than any other country.

Castile and Léon in the North West of the country was a big part of the success, bringing back dozens of awards for its cheeses, including two Super Golds. Speaking to the winning producers about what makes their cheeses so special, it’s clear that passion, skill and high quality milk are all essential. But there are other less obvious ingredients that are equally important when it comes to making a champion

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

cheese. Family, place and history are all part of the recipe for success.

Take Caprino del Esla, which trades as as Quesos Hircus in Palacios del Pan, Zamora. It won SuperGold for its Hircus Mega cheese – an ashed goat’s log, weighing 1.2kg. The cheese is made with raw milk from a herd of 800 MurcianGranada goats, which gives it a wonderfully complex flavour. But success wouldn’t be possible without a close-knit family team, who tend the goats and make the cheese.

“Both my husband and I come from farming families,” explains Maribel Prieto. “Little by little and due to the crises and ups and downs in the livestock sector and encouraged by our children, we decided to set up the small cheese factory, in which my son and I work. My husband, along with two others, look after the goats. For a small

company like us, winning this award is a great reward for all that work and effort.”

Strong family ties are also at the heart of another SuperGold winner from Léon. Pata de Mulo from Quesería Los Payuelos in Saelices del Payuelo is made by three members of the same family. “The award represents a special motivation for a cheese factory as small as ours and to continue doing our work with all the love and care,” says co-owner Francisco Vázquez. “We are very proud of our results since throughout our history we have accumulated five Super Gold medals and a total of 22 World Cheese Awards.”

As well as family values, Quesería Los Payuelos’ success is also rooted in tradition – something that links many of Castile and Léon’s cheesemakers. Pata de Mulo, which translates as ‘leg of the mule’, is a traditional cheese with a fascinating back story, as Francisco explains.

“Pata de Mulo was formerly made by shepherds, collecting the curd in ‘encella’ moulds.

These were made from wicker in a tubular shape - closed at the bottom and progressively widening like a trumpet. The shepherds poured the curd they made at dawn into these moulds and hung them from their carts pulled by mules so that they were drained and pressed on the way to the markets. When arriving and removing the cheese from the moulds for sale, it took on an appearance similar to the legs of their animals, hence its name ‘Pata de Mulo’.

At La Moldera Real in Santiago Millas, León, founder Pedro Quiñones has dedicated his life to reviving the fortunes of Pata de Mulo cheese, which had nearly died out when he set up the company in 2000. The business uses raw sheep’s milk to make a traditional version of the cheese, but in 2020 production was expanded to include a goat’s milk version, which won Gold at this year’s awards.

“We tried to make a cheese different from what is made in our area,” explains Nuria Alonso López from the company. “It has a taste of fresh milk and you eat everything, rind included. It leaves freshness on the nose.”

Cañarejal also makes Queso Castellano, a hard, sheep’s milk cheese, which is covered by a Protected Geographical Indication. It’s a traditional cheese from the region, which is also made by Quesos El Pastor - a larger producer, which has had plenty of awards success itself.

The company’s 350 employees produce 160,000 tonnes of cheese a year, led by its flagship cheese factory in Santa Cristina de la Polvorosa, Zamora.

But family bonds and a sense of place are no less important.

Founded in 1967 by brothers Lorenzo, Salvador and Domingo, its general director Marco Rodríguez is the second generation of the family.

sheep breeds of Castile and Léon were key ambitions of vet Juan Uña when he set up Lácteas Zamoro in Santibáñez de Vidriales, Zamora in 1997. Uña was working as a vet with farms that kept Churra and Castilian sheep breeds, but decided to move into cheesemaking to make the most of the fabulous milk, selling the cheese in his van throughout Spain. Today the business is run by Uña’s children and has 35 employees, producing about a 1,000 tonnes of cheese a year. One of its most popular is Ciudad de Sansueña – a hard pressed raw sheep’s milk cheese aged for at least 11 months, which won Gold at the World Cheese Awards.

“The milk comes from a livestock cooperative that we have near Santibáñez and it is the milk of the same sheep throughout the year,” says export manager Eduardo Hernández.

“These sheep graze, they are not given feed.

“Goat’s milk was a way to expand and vary the product offered to the customer,” explains MD Daniel Quiñones. “We’re a small company with just three employees, making three tonnes of goat’s cheese and 26 tonnes of of sheep’s cheese every year.”

It’s a similar story at Quesos Cañarejal, near Valladolid, which is run by four members of the same family, who work across their own farm and creamery, producing around 80 tonnes a year. The company’s Mantecoso (buttery) cheese, which won Gold this year, is made with raw sheep’s milk, but is quite different to the traditional hard cheeses of the area. Small and round, it has a semi-soft texture and white, bloomy rind.

The company’s Brebis D’or Trufa – a hard, truffled sheep’s cheese, which won Gold at the awards – is made with milk from farms located close to the creamery.

“This proximity allows all the differentiating characteristics of the milk to be kept intact, since the sheep feed on local pastures rich in wild plants such as thyme,” says export manager César Fraile. “This environment gives the milk a very special flavour that is transferred to the cheeses. The area has a long tradition of grazing and cheese production that dates back to the 10th century, a know-how that has been maintained to this day.”

Protecting and preserving the traditional

They live in the countryside. It is a traditional Zamorano artisan cheese in which the goodness of raw milk is appreciated and fermentation is carried out with the milk’s own natural bacteria, without the addition of preservatives or ferments.”

Juan Uña sadly passed away a few years ago, but the strength of the family bonds means the company’s future is assured, adds Hernández.

Family, place and tradition. It’s a winning combination.

SIX OF THE BEST AWARD-WINNING CHEESES Hircus Mega – Super Gold This large unpasteurised goat’s log is matured for a minimum of three weeks and has a meltingly soft texture and citrussy flavour.

Pato de Mulo Semi Curado – Super Gold Made by Quesería Los Payuelos with raw sheep’s milk and matured for 35-40 days in an underground maturing room, this traditional cheese is coated in natural moulds and yeasts and has a buttery, sweet flavour.

Pata de Mulo Curado de Cabra - Gold Matured for at least two months, this goat’s milk take on the region’s traditional Pato de Mulo cheeses is mad by La Moldera Real and has a sweet and floral flavour.

Cañarejal Mantecoso - Gold This raw sheep’s milk, made in 500g rounds with lamb’s rennet, has a semi-soft texture and a bloomy coat. Mantecoso means ‘buttery’ in Spanish and a good way to describe the flavour.

For more information, contact: promocion.ice@jcyl.es hircus.es queserialospayuelos.com lamolderareal.com canarejal.es elpastor.com quesosansuena.com

Brebis Do’r Trufa - Gold Small pieces of black truffle are added to milk before curdling and imbue this sheep’s cheese with a perfumed flavour and aroma during maturation. The texture is compact and slightly crumbly with a lactic flavour rich with notes of truffle.

Ciudad de Sansueña - Gold A compact, hard raw sheep’s milk cheese, which is aged for at least 11 months. It has an intense flavour without becoming spicy.

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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SCOTTISH WILD VENISON CHARCUTERIE salami - chorizo - pepperoni - smoked venison - bresaola

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

SHOW PREVIEW

Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show is coming to the SEC in Glasgow from 21st-23rd January 2024, showcasing the best the country has to offer delis and farm shop owners.

Six reasons to visit… Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show

1 It’s the only fine food and drink trade event in Scotland Scottish food & drink is known for its quality and taste. As most of the producers at the show are from Scotland, it’s an opportunity for buyers to meet longstanding suppliers and find new ones, to stock up after a busy summer season.

4 Sharpen up your business skills The Talking Shop has a busy timetable of discussions and masterclasses: refine your digital skills; how to make the most of tourist trade; get to grips with sustainability and learn about the latest trends. Plus, Nessie’s Den will give emerging suppliers the opportunity to pitch their products to respected retailers.

2

3

Discover new gems…

… and regional specialities

New exhibitors this year will include Arrochar Alps Gin, Holleys Fine Foods, Highland Moon, Isle of Mull Coffee, Select Drams, and Tchai-Ovna Fine Teas. Start-ups will take centre stage in The Launch Gallery, with exhibitors like Cruice, MYXD Cocktails, D!P Club, Kinnaird Kitchen, Three Robins Oat Milk and Pochle.

Representing the breadth and variety of produce from around Scotland, this year’s show will host three large regional stands: Orkney, Food from Argyll and East Lothian Food & Drink.

5

6

Snap up the best products

Visit the Trade Fair Spring

The Best Product Awards will be judged by a line-up of experts including Linda McLean from the Kintyre Larder in Campeltown, Catherine Cameron, the Cobbs Group’s food buyer and Jonathan Macdonald, chef and owner of Ka Pao and Ox & Finch restaurants. The winning products will be on display for the duration of the Show.

Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show runs alongside Scotland’s Trade Fair Spring, where about 450 suppliers will showcase their products, making the show a one stop shop for food & drink as well as gifts, textiles, homeware, jewellery and crafts. scotlandstradefairs.com Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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WHERE GREAT DRINKS MEET THEIR MATCH @THEDRINKSBAKERY THEDRINKSBAKERY.COM

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

DRINKS

Cider, but not as you know it

Forget everything you think you know about cider, and start afresh. You might just discover a product that’s closer to fine wine than it is to the sickly drinks that hog the mainstream

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

packaged in the right format to be on a shelf in a bottle shop. Makers don’t necessarily have the desire or knowledge of how to get them into distribution.”

By contrast, when James and his wife Susanna Matt Hinkman

Most of us, including you, savvy retailer, champion of provenance and craft food & drink production, have a certain idea of what to expect from cider: it’s carbonated, sickly sweet and made with the concentrated juice of intensely farmed apples. It’s cheap and it’s cheerful.

But few have tried what the UK’s best makers of cider – and perry, apple cider’s pear-based comrade – have been creating under the radar for centuries, a product more like fine wine than commercially-available cider.

Theirs are made with freshly pressed fruit, and speak to the ideas of tradition, seasonality and terroir, from the West Country to the Three Counties (and more recently, all the way up to Scotland).

The historical reason for craft cidermakers’ lack of a public profile isn’t coyness, but a lack of marketing and presentation skills, explains James Forbes, co-founder of Herefordshire cider company Little Pomona, and host of the first Artisan Cider & Cheese Summit earlier this year.

“The liquids might be great but they’re never

Founder of Oliver’s Fine Cider, Tom Oliver.

Forbes – he, an ex-wine buyer, and she a drinks writer, and the former director of the Guild of Beer Writers – founded Little Pomona Orchard & Cidery in 2017, they knew they wanted to work at a certain scale.

“The idea was always to build a business beyond 7,000 litres [the tax threshold], to employ people, and eventually there was the idea of having a tasting room, and all of that has come to pass,” says Forbes.

Now producing between 90-100,000 litres of their low-intervention, wine production method inspired cider a year, things are ticking along nicely. Many of their sales are driven by high-end restaurants and retail, though, because the most obvious outlet for cider in the UK – pubs – won’t stock it.

“There’s a lot of habit in their decisions.

These sweet fizzy ciders made by Bulmers and Westons, that is what cider is to most people.

“The gatekeepers who may be really interested in beer are yet to be interested in cider, and they don’t necessarily see any value in stocking other ciders.”

The Forbes are hopeful, however, that as a new generation of fellow-minded cider professionals create more of an appealing and diverse offering, the high-end, on and off trade, CONTINUED ON PAGE 42

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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DRINKS Olivia Estebanez

Felix Nash, Fine Cider Company founder.

When you’re having drink or two in the afternoon, may it be on Christmas day or whenever, [cider is] a great fit. I love thinking of these bottles as like half-alcohol wine.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

CIDER STYLES Cider can be made with single or multiple varieties of apples, using wild or inoculated yeasts, and aged in barrels or stainless-steel vessels.

It can have a short shelf life, or improve with time spent in bottle.

It can be any combination of sweet, sharp and tannic (or bitter), and it can be still or sparkling.

Still There are many types of still cider, and the best are an expression of the fruit, a product similar to wine in its characteristics and production. Fine still cider is often barrel-aged.

Keeved Keeved, or Normandy method cider, is made by interrupting the fermentation process so as to retain some of the sugar from the apples. Because these sugars would usually turn into alcohol, keeved cider typically has a lower ABV than most.

Pét nat Unlike most commercial cider, pét’ nat is naturally sparkling as a result of being bottled before the end of fermentation.

Because the yeast is left in the bottle, it is usually cloudy. Good versions are vibrant, fruity, lightly acidic and ever so slightly funky.

Champagne method Champagne method, or traditional method cider involves a second fermentation in the bottle. This gives it a higher ABV than pét’ nat or carbonated ciders, meaning it has more potential to develop complex flavours in the bottle.

It also makes it more labour-intensive – ergo, more expensive.

Gerry Matthews

are starting to wave the flag for Britain’s fine cider.

“It’s this happy coincidence of people who had this same thought processes as we were having and we’ve all managed to come together a little bit to create a bit of a noise,” he says.

“My belief is that if we begin to get a little snowball effect, it will be much easier in a few years’ time.”

Enter Felix Nash. The 33 year-old cider expert co-founded craft cider wholesale company, Fine Cider Company, in 2014, and has played a major role in the industry’s modernisation – for example, arguing the case for tall, 75cl bottles to replace pint-sized ones.

He tells FFD that demand for quality cider is steadily growing across the UK, and independent retailers’ engagement is keeping pace.

“Indies have got such a unique place because they’re more accessible as an entry point – you’re not talking the high margins of restaurants.”

The industry’s current focus is making sure that retailers know how to sell cider, he says, “because if you get it right, it will sell wonderfully.”

“But if people put it on a shelf and expect it to sell itself, it will only go so far.”

He cites the example of Josh Page, cheesemonger and pommelier, who last year sold more of producer Find & Foster’s Champagne method cider at La Fromagerie than all of the London retailer’s Champagne combined, “because

he was just a good person, getting a good message out there about being like a grower Champagne, but way better value.”

Another titan of the cider industry is producer and cider advocate Tom Oliver, of Oliver’s Fine Cider. Oliver has jointly hosted the Cider Salon in Bristol for the past five years (of which Fine Cider Company recently hosted one at the Tate), and together with Nash, Mary Topp of New Forest Cider and Ted Dwane of Two Orchards, founded the London Cider House in Borough Market.

Oliver also speaks of the importance of helping consumers (and indeed, retailers) identify the right contexts for drinking cider.

Together with cheese expert Sam Wilkin, (AKA Cellarman Sam), Oliver has made two consecutive vintages of a hazy, sparkling cider called Cheddar On My Mind to pair with farmhouse cheddar, which Nash says he sold “tonnes” of last year.

Although the idea was slightly tonguein-cheek, Oliver says: “what it’s done is that it’s given the conversation a starting point.

Everybody could find a cider that works better, but it’s got the conversation going.”

Fundamentally, the key to selling cider is to create associations and occasions for cider, says Nash, like when low-alcohol drinks are more suitable.

“When you’re having drink or two in the afternoon, may it be on Christmas day or whenever, [cider is] a great fit. I love thinking of these bottles as like half-alcohol wine.”

For Oliver, the success of efforts to bring fine cider into the mainstream, which are mirrored by the multiplication of cider clubs around the country, as well as growing sales – are just the beginning.

“We feel that there’s still a lot to do - but there’s also a lot to go at.”

“We just need to open up the reality of supporting independent drinks makers - there’s this professed love of the apple and of orchards.

The reality is that most people will say that they support the countryside and hedgerows, but they don’t necessarily eat and drink it.”

And in the meantime, he adds, “what we as makers need to do is concentrate on making better, and getting better at what we do.”

(L-R) Susanna Forbes, Joshua Page and James Forbes

Ice cider Ice cider is made by freezing apples (or picking them in the winter, when they are naturally frozen) and isolating the concentrated apple must from the frozen water crystals, resulting in a sweeter cider with more concentrated apple flavours. Ice cider typically has an ABV between 9-13%.

Co-ferments et al.

Co-fermented, infused and blended ciders have emerged as some makers with a background in other drinks, like beer, or wine, have entred the scene, trialling out different ways of creating cider that replicate and merge processes. Things like co-fermenting cider with berries or grape skins to lend colour and a fresh fruit flavour, or taking a leaf from the craft beer book and infusing cider with hops to give it floral, bitter notes.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

CATEGORY FOCUS

When less means more

low- & no-alcohol

>>

Danish producer ISH says Château del ISH uses a proprietary process that enriches the dealcoholised wine with flavour extracted directly from wine. Available to the UK trade via DrinksOne, this dry white is inspired by a classic French Chardonnay with notes of citrus, green apples and pears combined with minerality and a slight oak finish. RRP £9.99. ishspirits.com

Stout, the third edition in Small Beer’s Small Batch series, is said to set a new standard in dark beer, delivering the essence of a traditional stout at a sociable strength (2.5%).

The London brewery is also donating 5% of every sale to In The Drink to help tackle plastic pollution in waterways. RRP £2.50 for 330ml; trade price £32 for a case of 24. theoriginalsmallbeer. com

Northern Monk predicts that hop waters are going to be the “next big thing” and is setting out its stall in this space with the release of Holy Hop Water.

Available in Original, Citra & Mango and Sabro varieties, the hop-infused sparkling waters deliver a hop hit without the alcohol. The brewery’s other offering in the low/ no category is Holy Faith, a 0.5% Hazy Pale Ale. northernmonk.com

Cocktails At Home has moved into the mocktail space with the launch of a nine-strong premixed range that takes in classics such as Amaretto Sour, Espresso Martini, Mojito, Negroni, Passionstar Martini, Pina Colada and Strawberry Daquiri. Each non-alcoholic cocktail is available in 250ml and 1L bottles, with respective RRPs of £11.99 and £39.99. Trade prices start from £1.79 per cocktail. cocktailsathomeuk.com

Cornish producer Wavelength says its 30-day fermentation process produces herb and botanical infusions that are “alive with depth”. Ruby Aperitif combines hibiscus, lavender, wormwood, pink peppercorn, orange zest, and pink grapefruit zest, whilst Amber Aperitif blends lapsang, ginger, clove, vanilla, cacao nibs, gentian root and oak. RRP £19.99 for 70cl. wavelengthdrinks.com

Beesou is a bitter-sweet aperitif with a natural ingredient list, born out of its creator’s frustration with the opacity of mainstream spirit ingredient labels.

Made from British honey and coloured with safflower extract, Beesou offers an all natural, low alcohol (11% ABV) alternative from a B Corp certified producer. RRP is £29.99 for 70cl and 10% of profits go to Bees for Development. beesou.london

Somerset’s Drinks Kitchen has made its Grapefruit Piquante a permanent fixture in its range of botanical distillates.The blend of grapefruit, mint, rosemary and chilli joins non-alcoholic peers, Spiced Rhubarb, Herb Verde & Orange Cinchona.

RRP £30 for 950ml. drinkskitchen.online

Highball Cocktails has combined agave with citrus to convey authentic tequila character in its latest alcoholfree cocktail. The new Margarita will form the basis of a US expansion for the Hampshirebased brand, which now exports its seven-strong range to 18 markets worldwide. highballcocktails.com

This summer saw the launch of an alcohol-free rosé wine from Wednesday’s Domaine. Summer Cuvée joined the producer’s range as a limited edition, alongside its core Sanguine (red) and Piquant (white) which are available year-round with an RRP of £70 for case of six. wednesdaysdomaine.com

Let’s face it, low and noalcohol drinks can be a bit daunting, as can vegan, freefrom and organic products.

But fear not, we’ve compiled the latest NPD in these categories to help you find the good stuff.

Compiled by Lynda Searby

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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low- & no-alcohol

vegan, free-from and organic

>>

Coastal Spritz, the latest addition to Pentire’s nonalcoholic spirit portfolio, blends the Cornish brand’s signature distillation of coastal botanicals with blood orange, sea rosemary and oakwood.

The aperitif, which is said to strike a balance of “natural bitter flavours and refreshing coastal tones”, has launched in 200 Waitrose stores - its first national listing. RRP is £27.80 for 70cl. pentiredrinks.com

This month sees Biona launch three organic lines that fill a gap in the chiller for plant-based options.

Ethiopian-inspired Cashew & Red Lentil Deli Corners (RRP £4.49) are a source of protein and fibre; soya-protein-based Tofu & Herbs Deli Corners (RRP £4.49) are rich in Mediterranean flavours; and Spinach Cashew Rolls (RRP £4.59) are a plant-powered take on the classic spinach feta roll. windmillorganics.com

Better Nature’s Mediterranean Tempeh Pieces are designed to make it easier for home cooks to experiment with plant-based meals. The cultured soybean pieces are seasoned with paprika, cumin, tomato and onion, so they can be heated in minutes to add a source of protein to dishes such as pasta and salads. RRP £2.70. betternaturetempeh.co

Spirits of Virtue says its new Seven Giants brand captures the spirit of Scotland and the soul of Mexico to offer a non-alcoholic tequila alternative that is “playful yet sophisticated”. There are three styles - Blanco, Añejo and Reposado - all of which combine organic blue Mexican agave with Highland spring water that has percolated through the Cairngorm mountains for over 50 years. spiritsofvirtue.com

Mr Organic continues its campaign to highlight the versatility of legumes with the launch of an ambient Antipasti Dip range that “showcases the power of beans”. Made in Italy, the home of antipasti, the Butter Bean & Yellow Pepper, Chickpea & Tomato and Black Bean & Red Pepper dips blend cooked beans with vegetables and spices.

RRP £3.49 for 230g. mr-organic.com

Valsoia, an Italian brand championing plant-based food and healthy eating, is bringing dairy-free gelato to UK freezers. Soya Ice Cream Sandwiches (RRP £3.75 for eight minis) marry plant-based ice cream with biscuits enriched with calcium and vitamin D2, and Oat Based Gelato Cookies (RRP £4.50 for three) sandwich a scoop of oat gelato between two chocolate chip cookies. The brand is listed with Ocado. valsoia.it

Rich’s Cider has launched a low alcohol cider that is said to have all the bite and taste of its alcoholic equivalent.

The 0.5% ABV medium sparkling cloudy cider is pressed from apples grown within a 30-mile radius of the Somerset farm. RRP £2.10 for 500ml. richscider.co.uk

Retailers looking to tap into the fermented food trend should check out Miyoung Finch who makes authentic Korean kimchi from napa cabbage in her home kitchen. Trade price is £5 for a 250g jar (RRP £8) and she makes sauces such as Ssamjang, Bulgogi and Dak Galbi. miyoungfinch.com

The newest introduction under the French Sojade brand gives consumers a vegan, organic alternative to regular crème fraîche. La Fraîche can be substituted for dairy cream in recipes such as sauces, pasta dishes, quiche fillings and gratins. Trade price £9.60 per case of six; RRP £2.15. olga.fr

Toast Brewing, the London social enterprise that makes beer from surplus bread, has launched its first low alcohol brew.

Described as a “great-tasting, low-alcohol lager with a refreshing mix of citrus and spice”, Changing Tides 0.5% Lager is made with bread, malted barley and English hops. Toast buys excess bakery bread and uses it to replace 25% of the malted barley in all of its beers.

The enzymes in the malt get to work changing starches in the bread to simple sugars, ready for yeast to convert them to alcohol and carbon dioxide. Since 2016, the brewery claims to have saved so many slices of bread that stacked up together, they’d be over four times the height of Mount Everest. 100% of its profits go to environmental charities. RRP, £2 for a 330ml can. toastbrewing.com

Following a £750,000 fundraiser, Nirvana Brewery has brought back one of its most successful limited edition brews, a 0.5% ABV London porter.

Last seen in 2021, the porter celebrates the brewery’s roots in the capital. The rich, dark, beer features multiple roasted malt varieties and the classic British hop variety, Fuggles. With notes of caramel, coffee and a touch of chocolate, it is described as “warming, complex and indulgent”.

The brewery is also predicting further growth in the low-no beer category courtesy of the sustained trend of “mixing” – beer drinkers alternating their rounds between full-strength and no-low beers.

Founder Becky Kean says: “We were ahead of the no/ low curve when we started and now we’re riding the wave that’s come along. People aren’t just switching to no-low occasionally - or exclusively for Dry January they’re genuinely embracing them.”

RRP £2.50/330ml bottle. nirvanabrewery.com 46

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

www.acvdrink.com ‘Finally you can have your cake and eat it.’

Lightly sparkling Apple Cider Vinegar drink to help minimise glucose spikes.

The glucose revolution is upon us. Influencers and alternative health gurus are endorsing one of our most prescient revelations — the glucose hack. How the body breaks down glucose is apparently a concern for us all, not just diabetics and those with insulin resistance. With a regulated diet, we can all benefit from monitoring our glucose levels. Put simply, taking acetic acid (ACV) before starchy or carb heavy meals can prevent spikes and crashes we all feel but fail to understand. Those mid-afternoon fogs that send you into the spirit world, barely able to return to earth before the day is over. Now Apeal Wörld ACV has hit the market and nailed a great tasting and affordable way to take your daily dose on the go. This drink has all the glucose benefits to take before your meals and maintain energy throughout the day.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

vegan, free-from and organic

>>

Collagen is trending as a supplement, and Hunter & Gather has come up with a way of incorporating this structural protein into real food. Made with naturally sweet organic coconut milk and collagen peptides, its dairy-free Vanilla and Creamy Cacao Collagen Creamers can be stirred into coffee for a health kick. RRP £30 for a recyclable pouch. hunterandgatherfoods. com

Winchester-based Pod & Briar has boxed up its Sloe Lane sloe gin flavoured truffles in a plastic-free, nine-piece gift tray for Christmas.

Dairy-free white chocolate ganache flavoured with foraged sloes and Conker Spirit Gin is rolled in 55% dark chocolate, resulting in a rich and fruity treat that is vegan, gluten-free and soya-free. Trade price £7.80; RRP £11. podandbriar.co.uk

Trendspotters may have clocked haskap berries, an edible blue honeysuckle that is touted as the next superfood due to to its high vitamin C and antioxidant content.

Croatian company Demetra Alfa has bottled these benefits in an organic, not-fromconcentrate, no added sugar juice by pressing fresh berries from its own orchard. RRP £15 for 500ml. haskap.life

Newcomer RIDDIM is championing an inclusive approach to snacking with a Caribbean inspired vegan range that is free from 13 of the 14 major allergens.

Its current line-up takes in Coconut Punch Caramel Popcorn, Cocoa Tea Popcorn, Scotch Bonnet Chedduh Plantain Chips and Jerk BBQ Plantain Chips, with Lime & Sea Salt Plantain Chips planned for 2024. Trade price £1.50 for 60g; RRP £2.50. riddimsnacks.co.uk

Roots & Wings has crafted a new cracker collection from organic, vegan, gluten-free ingredients. MultiSeed Brittles feature pumpkin, sunflower, chia, flax and sesame seeds, which adds to their flavour and means they are full of nutrients.

There are three varieties: Original, with Dates & Black Olives, and with Black Olives & Sun Dried Tomatoes. RRP £2.99 for 100g. rootsandwingsorganic. com

Decomposing coffee grounds give off harmful methane gas, which is why Grounds For Good is exploring ways of diverting spent coffee grounds from landfill. The social enterprise’s latest project is the creation of an infused oil that can be used for dipping, dressing, baking and roasting.

Coffee Infused Rapeseed Oil has an RRP of £4.99 for 250ml. groundsforgood.co.uk

Following the success of its inaugural vegan mayos, BeSaucy has released two new flavours. Smoked Chipotle Mayo is a rich, spicy, smokey condiment made with oak smoke infused rapeseed oil and chipotles in adobo, whilst Dill & Gherkin Mayo is dominated by sweet and pickled flavours. Both are carried by Cress Co, Suma, CLF, Essential and Infinity, priced at £2.66 per 180g jar. RRP £3.95. besaucy.co.uk

The Cotswold Pudding Company has introduced a Gluten-Free Sticky Chocolate Pudding The producer uses blended dates to give the pudding its rich stickiness, along with 100% cocoa powder, 70% dark Belgian chocolate, salted butter, Dove’s Farm gluten-free flour, eggs, double cream, unrefined dark sugar and rapeseed oil. cotswoldpudding company.co.uk

Marinated King Oyster Antipasti from My Gourmet Mushrooms offers an easy antipasti option for vegans. It combines sliced mushrooms with extra virgin olive oil, lemon and oregano.

RRP £6.80 for 300ml. The Kendal producer also makes Mushroom Chutney and Spicy Mushroom Curry Pickle. mygourmetmushrooms.uk

D*mn Good cookies tick lots of boxes - not only are they plant-based, gluten-free, high in fibre and clean label, they are also said to provide “the perfect balance of crunch and melt”, clocking just 27 calories per cookie. RRP £1.60 for a 38g bag. dmngood.co.uk

Verenas Kitchen claims its new Cashew Cookie Nut Butter is “like dessert but without the sugar”. It is made with just three ingredients - organic cashews, coconut and pink Himalayan salt - which stand up on their own without sugar, according to the London producer. RRP £6.89. verenaskitchen.com

Pots & Co has added a new vegan-friendly flavour, Chocolate & Orange Ganache, range of desserts. Fino de aroma cocoa is the star ingredient, while rice starch and single origin Colombian chocolate produce a creamy texture that belies the light calorie load (79 per pot). potsandco.com

Plantpowered dips that are consciously made Do Goodly Dips has added two new lines to its plant-based dip range. Inspired by the Spanish classic romesco, Roasted Red Pepper dip has a 25% roasted pepper content, whilst Nacho Cheeze uses cannellini beans, giving it a high protein content.

Both dips are free from added sugar, gluten and dairy and are high in fibre. They have a naturally long shelf life of six months. Do Goodly donates 10% of its profits to mental health charity Mind. dogoodlydips.com

Tabúcha is on a mission to spread the word about tartary buckwheat - a flavonoid-rich fruit seed that has been billed as a nutritional powerhouse.

To this end, the producer has created Organic Tartary Buckwheat Tea, a caffeine-free brew with a nutty flavour profile. RRP £11.95 for 100g. tabucha.co.uk

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vegan, free-from and organic To ensure no one misses out on Christmas Day, THIS has unveiled a plantbased chicken crown that mimics the real thing.

THIS Isn’t Roast Chicken is made from a blend of soya and pea protein, with stuffing in the middle and a garlic melt and sage sprinkle topping. It is listed with Tesco and Sainsbury’s, where it retails at £5.95 (for three portions). this.co

Rhythm 108 has launched a gifting tube format for its best-selling Hazelnut Chocolate Praline biscuits.

Handmade by Swiss pâtissiers in a bakery nestled at the foot of the Swiss Alps, the organic, gluten-free, vegan sables are baked slowly and filled with a rich, palm-oil free hazelnut praline made with 30% hazelnuts. Each 195g plastic-free tube contains 13 individually wrapped biscuits. RRP £9. rhythm108.com

Sunny & Luna is giving traditional Italian pasta a modern, healthy twist by replacing half of the heavy carbs with fresh vegetables and legumes.

Launching this month, the Spinach Gnocchi is made from over 50% spinach and cauliflower, the gnocchi counts as 1 of your 5 a day, and is gluten-free, egg-free, vegan and free from preservatives. RRP £5.99 for 350g.

Spinach Gnocchi joins Cauliflower Gnocchi (made from 50% cauliflower) and Lentil Tagliatelle (made from 50% lentils, chickpeas, peas and cauliflower) in the range.

All three products are made in Italy using pasta-making techniques, and have an RRP of £5.99 for a two-serving pack. Sunny & Luna works with Suma, CLF, JDS and Ticco Foods to supply the trade. sunnyandluna.co.uk

Seggiano has introduced a low GI organic pasta range that will appeal to those looking for healthier carb options. The pasta is made from a 10,000 year-old ancient grain durum wheat variety that is indigenous to Sicily. This variety has a significantly lower GI than regular wheat, which is thought to be beneficial for controlling blood sugar levels. The pasta is also produced from the whole grain, to maximise the fibre content, and is free from emulsifiers, binding agents, preservatives and pesticides. According to Seggiano, the pasta is not just nutritious but sustainable, as the grains are grown via traditional methods that preserve biodiversity and soil fertility, and the milling and pasta production are powered by clean energy from renewable sources. There are there varieties - Busiate, Lumaconi and Orzo, with respective trade prices of £1.85, £1.85 and £2.20 for 250g; RRPs £3.10, £3.10 and £3.70. seggiano.com 50

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

A beneficiary of this year’s Great Taste Bursary programme for emerging micro-producers, The Whole Bowl’s Lentil & Mushroom Bolognese is a rich, savoury sauce made with mushrooms, green lentils and miso. Filling a gap in the market for plant-based chilled meals, it serves as a convenient accompaniment for pasta and jacket potatoes. Trade price £4 for a two-portion (475g) pot; RRP £5.956.25. thewholebowl.co.uk

Cocoa Jones Chocolate’s new Raspberry, Meringue, Cocoa Nibs bar was created for customers at its local farmers’ and artisan market asking for vegan chocolate that was “more than simply dark”.

With a trade price of £4.50 for 85g (RRP £7), the “flamboyant” bar contrasts raspberry with mellow fino de aroma cacao and ripples of vegan meringue. cocoajoneschocolate. com

ió fibrewater is targeting health-conscious consumers with what it claims is the UK’s first prebiotic fibre-infused water. Delivering 20% of the recommended daily fibre intake in one 500ml bottle.

Trade price of £0.98 per unit; RRP £1.89-2.50. iofibrewater.co.uk

The sweet, rich, deep nutty flavour of Cornwall Pasta Co’s new Organic Chestnut Gnocchi is matched by a charming back story. It is made from chestnut flour that is produced using regenerative and organic methods, then transported by sail boat from Portugal to Falmouth. RRP £16. cornwallpasta.com

Vegan variant of low sugar granola Following the success of its original recipe, Richmond-based startup Goody Granola has launched a vegan variant of its low sugar granola. Founder Beth Salem uses her mum’s recipe as the basis for her granola, which is made with glutenfree oats, almonds, cashews, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, extra virgin olive oil and honey.

The vegan recipe swaps honey for agave. Goody Granola is currently stocked by 11 shops and sold online direct to consumers. RRPs £6-6.50 for 400g; trade price £4-4.50. goodygranola.square. site

Booja-Booja is now selling two 25-piece gifting collections: Gourmet Selection No. 1 has Cherry Bakewell and Gingered Toffee Apple and flavours; Gourmet Selection No. 2 includes Fine de Champagne, Cherry Cognac, Rhubarb & Ginger Gin. RRP £23.99. boojabooja.com

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

Coffee alchemists since 2021. We transform used coffee grounds, which have been collected from Welsh coffee houses, into luxury sustainable products for home and lifestyle. By doing this, we divert coffee grounds from landfill where they contribute to global warming.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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MEET THE PRODUCER Small Things Wine co-founders Cleve Robinson (left) and Ian Batt (right)

The spirit of Cornwall To create his range of alcohol-free spirits, Pentire founder Alistair Frost foraged for botanicals along the Cornish coast. The result emulates the complexity and depth of flavour of alcohol, without the physical effects.

Interview by Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

What were you doing before founding Pentire, and how did it come about?

I used to work at a surf school in North Cornwall, which I loved because I’m super into the outdoors, health and sports.

Then I moved to London to work in bars and restaurants, eventually I became general manager at Amuse Bouche [Champagne & Cocktail Bar] in Parsons Green. Then I set up a small marketing company, representing exciting drinks brands - and I thought it would be great to create one of my own.

I stopped drinking a year-and-a-half ago, after drinking gradually less and less over the years. Working in bars, people had this idea of what “good” looked like – buying loads of cocktails and then probably regretting it, being hungover and feeling rubbish. I saw that as a disconnect in the sector. I asked myself, “how can you make cocktails for people to have a great experience and feel awesome?”

What was your development process?

Pentire is the name of our local coastline, which it turns out has a massive botanical range and has particularly amazing sea herbs, like rock samphire, ice lettuce and sea purslane. Distilling those down delivered an amazing profile, and I knew that it would be the perfect base to the spirit, totally unlike anything I’d tried before – and also super healthy. The result is a collaboration between all the creators, growers and makers down here, where a lot of people are into seasonality and resourceful at using local ingredients. Chefs,

like Nathan Outlaw and Paul Ainsworth, were also really helpful in the process.

How did you get it off the ground?

When we started, I just wanted 10-20 hero accounts to list it and then some really good

Independent retailers are hugely important, because they have the best ingredients, the best suppliers, and they pioneer the selection of British brands that succeed in the UK. indie retailers, so year one was all about getting into fine dining venues, some of the iconic harbour and beachside drinking places, Daylesford and the likes, and then to flagship accounts like Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges.

We’ve had to be an omni-channel business.

Direct to consumer is important as well, as is export. Our ads on social media will hopefully feed into people recognising Pentire when they see it elsewhere.

We export to 14-15 countries now, but we’re laser-focused on the UK and the US. We do a bunch of other stuff in Europe and New Zealand, but it’s really targeted, because our brand needs to be nurtured.

Can you talk us through your products?

Our core range is made up of Pentire Drift, Pentire Seawood and Coastal Spritz, which are great with a light tonic but really come to life in cocktails.

Pentire Drift has the key botanicals – some

citrus, then the plant blend of rock samphire, ice lettuce and sage – all over green tones. It’s great in a Martini or a Margarita.

Pentire Seawood is grapefruit, sea rosemary, wild seaweed and sea buckthorn.

It has really light, invigorating flavours. It’s incredible in a Paloma.

Pentire Coastal Spritz is a bitter aperitif with blood orange, sea rosemary, amazing in a Spritz, and also works in an Americano.

We also make a pre-mixed Spicy Margarita to make it easier for people at home, and we have our core range of canned outdoorsinspired canned drinks. You have a Pentire Adrift & Tonic, Pentire Seawood & Tonic and Pentire Coastal Spritz, in 330ml cans.

Why did you want to be B-Corp accredited, and what have the benefits been?

We were doing all the requisite anyway, so it was a really obvious decision. Lots of businesses we admire are B-Corps, and the advantage of being a small business and getting it done early is that it locks it in and means that whatever happens you’ll keep looking at it and keep going.

What’s your plan for the next couple of years?

We want to continue to grow our healthy drinking message and our active outdoor community, and where that ends up taking us gives us clarity on our channels and locations.

We have some good NPD in the works at the moment, and we want to continue growing in healthy retail, healthy on-trade, and work with the right partners.

How significant are independent retailers for you in your growth plans?

They’re hugely important, because they have the best ingredients, the best suppliers, and they pioneer the selection of British brands that succeed in the UK. They tell you what’s working, what’s not, who’s buying it, which really helps you to reach customers and grow your business. pentiredrinks.com Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

53

PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING Fieldfare and ready meal producer ByRuby sign distribution deal

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Loose frozen food company Fieldfare has penned a distribution deal with ready meal brand ByRuby, which it says will allow it to to offer independents a complete selection of high-end frozen food.

The companies will continue to operate independently, but Fieldfare will oversee distribution and sales within the independent market..

The frozen meals will make for a “complementary” offer for Fieldfare’s existing or prospective customers, managing director Matt Whelan told FFD. “The opportunity will be that we’ve got this broader range - the delivery that we have could arrive with both products, so it would be a simple receipt of goods.”

A relative newcomer to the sector, ByRuby launched in 2018 with its range of freshly cooked ready meals, using ingredients from suppliers to the restaurant industry and independent retail.

Direct-to-consumer sales made up the bulk of its turnover while it built up trade within the independent sector. It began supplying Booths in 2021, was bought by premium ready meal giant Charlie Bigham’s in September last year and struck a deal to sell in selected Waitrose stores in December.

The decision for Fieldfare to partner with ByRuby, Whelan said, reflects a shared ethos of selling frozen food driven by quality rather than price.

“That’s the parallel between both businesses – with any new products, we always ask whether

Managing director of Fieldfare Matt Whelan and ByRuby co-founder Milly Bagot

it is truly delicious, and we don’t want to launch it if it isn’t.”

Fieldfare briefly sold its own frozen ready meals in 2020, but chose to focus on its ‘by the item’, minimal waste concept.

“We became very purposeful around delicious, loose, frozen food, where customers can have as much as they want but no more than they need - and meals, from our brand perspective, didn’t fit with that.”

The focus will initially be to sell ByRuby to existing Fieldfare customers who don’t have a ready meal offer, before looking further afield at customers that have neither.

“I see lots of opportunity for delicious frozen in independents. We’re not in every single farm shop, fine food hall or garden centre by any stretch and I think that’s an exciting opportunity – and I think the same for ByRuby.” field-fare.com byruby.co.uk

WHAT’S NEW Don Miguel has introduced a range of Venezuelan Arabica roast coffee to the UK with its ‘KiGi Carib’ blend. Grown in rainforest shade along the Caribbean coast, the Typica and Bourbon Microlots are said to produce a “smooth, low acid taste” with a long finish.

The beans are devoid of so-called forever chemicals, key to the brand’s messaging. RRP is £8 per 250g. donmiguelsfood.com Cotton Barons is seeking stockists for its customisable fabric products. Offering everything from drawstring bread bags to bottle bags and staff aprons, the company says its items are durable and sustainable, made to spec, offering tradefriendly pricing and short lead times. cottonbarons.co.uk The Lake District’s oldest coffee roaster, John Farrer & Co, has teamed up with Cheshire’s Beartown Brewery to create a craft stout made with Farrer’s Classic Espresso. Lakeland Nightfall Coffee Stout is a 4.9% ABV beer, which the producers say is rich, complex and full bodied, with hints of bitterseweet chocolate, caramel and dark fruits. It is available off-trade in crates of 12 x 500ml bottles for £21.45. RRP £38. beartownbrewery.co.uk/ farrerscoffee

WHAT’S TRENDING By Nick Baines processed than meat-based convenience products. Brands like Actual Veggies in the US and Ireland’s Strong Roots are putting the veggies back into veggie burgers.

1

2 Co-Fermented wine

3

To mark its 10th anniversary, Elephant Gin has created a limited edition ‘African Explorer’ gin celebrating ingredients from the continent: buchu leaves from South Africa, which the producer says taste similar to blackcurrant; African nutmeg; white ginger from Cameroon; Sumbala seeds from Burkina Faso; Baobab, and Lion’s Tail, which it says gives the drink a sharp floral note. 15% of profits will be donated to charity to help protect the critically endangered African Forest Elephant. RRP, £45. elephant-gin.com 54

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

2 1 Putting plants back into plant-based At the top of

Whole Foods’ food trend predictions list this year is the notion of plant based brands pulling back from complex faux meat ingredients. There has been widespread cynicism towards some plant-based options as of late, often more

Experimental winemakers are blurring the lines between wine and cider. The New York Times recently published an article about California’s Scar of The Sea, who produce wines blended with Newton Pippin apples. In Spain, punk cider brand Serps collaborates with natural winemaker Finca Parera to make another ciderwine-fusion called Lo Temps es Breu, with xarello grapes and Crimson Crisp apples. This approach tells a deeper, more complex story of terroir, but leaves some buyers unsure of

how to categorise the result.

As wine culture continues to take itself less seriously, the guard-rail to experimentation is coming down, too.

3 Clean caffeine Improving consumers’ source of caffeine seems to be the new thing.

Dirtea, a brand built on mushroom tea, is now moving into matcha, and with US competitor Mud/Wtr now available on British soil, it’s clear that consumers have an interest in drinks that deliver energy and focus. As we wade through adaptogens, CBD and L-Theanine, we don’t want our pick-me-up to come with the crash and burn disclaimer.

With an approach to improving performance, interwoven with the current wellness culture, our caffeine hit now comes in a variety of different shapes and sizes.

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Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING WHAT’S NEW

The Great British Porridge Co. products are now entirely glutenfree again, two years after switching to regular oats when the company encountered supply chain issues. The change will apply across the whole range of sugar-free, plant based porridge. greatbritishporridgeco.uk GingerBeard’s Preserves has got a new look, as the Bristol-based business seeks to modernise the brand and broaden its customer base. Labels now feature bold, orange lettering, to make the products stand out and be consistent across the whole range of jams, chutneys, sauces, pickles, mustards, rubs and seasonings. gingerbeardspreserves.co.uk As it continues to drive sales to cafés, Glynn Valley’s Trewithen Dairy is also looking to home speciality coffee brewers to buy its Cornish Barista Milk. High protein content and 4% butterfat gives it the right composition to emulsify in hot drinks – perfect for foam retention and coffee art. RRP is £2 per litre. trewithendairy.co.uk

My magic ingredient Monkeyboard Coffee Brazil – Fazenda Mio NICOLA KAMI, Kami’s West Derby, Liverpool Before opening our deli, I knew nothing about coffee. I was happy with anything – even instant. When we opened, we wanted to support as many local independent businesses as possible. We found Monkeyboard and fell in love with them. Their coffee tastes amazing, it’s ethically sourced, single origin and roasted in Liverpool.

The owners, Dale and Tristan, couldn’t be more helpful. From basic knowledge to full barista training, they go above and beyond to help their stockists. Plus our customers love that they can buy coffees from different regions and taste the difference in the beans.

My personal favourite is their Brazillian Fazenda Mio blend. We also use Monkeyboard at home – it’s surprising how many things you make with fresh coffee. The obvious one is for your morning brew, but I also use it to make espresso martinis and to bake the best coffee & walnut cakes. In the summer, I make iced lattes and affogatos – always with Monkeyboard beans.

Gadsby introduces new display and refreshed gifting collections

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Retailers looking for new retail displays, hampers and sustainable packaging should turn their attention to Gadsby.

The Somerset-based company recently introduced two collections of crates, risers and signage, with retail, catering and buffet displays in mind. Both the Faba and the Stak collection can be used as is for general merchandising in shops, but also fit gastro tubs for hot and cold food.

The Faba collection is made from solid Acacia wood, which is both water and stain resistant, and coated with a water-based varnish, which the company says makes it easy to clean. The intent here was to create a sleek and modern look which director Will Gadsby told FFD is “an excellent choice for both food display and general merchandising”.

In a more homely style, “perfect for farm shops, delis and stores that want that kind of ‘rustic charm’ look”, he added, the Stak collection is made from durable pine wood, designed for commercial applications. The olive grey colour

and contrast with the metal work, Gadbsy said, has the potential to create “an engaging and eye-catching display”. Lending to the name of the collection, the crates are stackable, doubling up as extra storage.

In the gifting range, the company has redesigned its handmade split willow hampers, which Gadsby said are perfect for eco-conscious retailers whose customers increasingly value lifetime objects.

As well as a full willow lid and split willow base, the baskets have long straps (which incidentally, are vegan) to allow space for liners.

Customers can personalise these with their logos.

The design is simple and unassuming, allowing it to fit in traditional and modern settings, said Gadsby, adding that, as trends in retail come and go, “we don’t see wicker going anywhere”.

Crate prices in the Stak collection start from £11.50 plus VAT, and £9.80 plus VAT in the Faba collection. The Split willow hampers, which vary in size from 14-20 inch, start at £6.80 plus VAT. gadsby.co.uk

It’s surprising how many things you make with fresh coffee. Your morning brew, espresso martinis, coffee & walnut cake...

Steenbergs has introduced a trio of spice blends developed in partnership with chef Sabrina Ghayour following the release of her latest cookbook, FLAVOUR. The Flavour blend is a mix of cumin, coriander, cinnamon, turmeric, garlic powder, paprika, cayenne, lime powder and cracked black pepper, to use when roasting meat, root vegetables, or squashes, as well as for kebabs.

The Persiana Blend, created for one of the dishes in Ghayour’s 2014 book of the same name, blends rose petals with sumac, lime powder, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, garlic and cayenne. It too is said to go well with roasted meat and veg, as well as game, poultry, oily fish and seafood.

Finally, the Bazaar blend mixes oregano, paprika, citrus, pepper, ginger and garlic, which is versatile enough to be used as a rub, for roasting or pan frying meat or fish, or to be added to salads, rice dishes, hummus and flatbreads.

RRP £2.75-£3 per 40g. steenbergs.co.uk

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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In 2016, Broad Bean owner Ian Evans set out to open a traditional delicatessen in the market town of Ludlow. Here’s the story of how he turned the former wholefood shop’s fortunes around, and his plans to keep the local food culture going strong.

Interview & photography by Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Playing the long game IT’S BEEN SEVEN years since Ian Evans took on the challenge of opening a shop in Ludlow, Shropshire – but he’s showing no signs of being jaded.

While many shopkeepers can be worn down by serving customers day in day out, he seems to relish it more than ever.

“It’s exhausting at times, but I love it,” he tells FFD. “I love coming to work.”

Enjoy it as he may, becoming an independent retailer wasn’t always his plan.

Evans originally trained as a marine biologist and completed a masters in fish farming, only to realise that this didn’t leave him with very many job prospects.

VITAL STATISTICS

Number of employees: 2 full time, 3 part time Average basket: £12 Average margin: 35% Annual turnover: £425,000 Retail Space: 48 m2 58

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

“It turns out there aren’t really any fish farms in the UK,” he laughs, “so I retrained to become a butcher.”

He got a job managing the Sandringham Estate’s butchers and eventually decided he wanted his own business, so in 2016, he looked for a place within driving distance of his family in South Wales, and the site at 60 Broad Street cropped up.

Broad Bean originally opened in 1977, and for the six years before Evans’ arrival had been run as a health and wholefoods store, but this isn’t what the new owner wanted to do with it.

“They sold lots of supplements, refills,

laundry liquid. I was thinking of an old school delicatessen like the ones I remember seeing on high streets in the 1980s and 1990s.

So we made the choice to box up all the supplements.”

Given that he has more than doubled turnover since taking the reins, there’s clearly more to his strategy than just changing the product range, but his approach to sourcing has certainly played its part.

With 140 suppliers and counting, Evans is always on the lookout for more. The sprawling fridges full of cheese, charcuterie and drinks; the shelves stacked to the ceiling with ambient items from around the world;

DELI OF THE MONTH

and the silos of tea, coffee and dry goods all attest to that.

“If it’s worth eating, I’ll stock it”, he says, “and the bonus is I never need to go to the supermarket, because I’ve got the best larder in Shropshire.”

While Evans concedes it can be complicated to shop around suppliers for the best prices on individual lines, this method allows for the flexibility to find the right prices and keep rotating stock.

He says that EPoS supplier CSY Retail Systems really helps him stay on top of things. He uses his system for stock management and figuring out average sales but also for the daily processing of transactions. “It has really allowed me to grow our business.”

Given the current economic environment, he wouldn’t be the only retailer safeguarding his business by inflating his margins, but keeping them as tight as possible and focusing on turnover is how he keeps the competition at bay.

“It doesn’t matter if you’re making 80% or 30% on it, you still need to sell your product. And if you’re at 80% and you’re not selling it, then there’s no point.”

With average basket spend at £12, he knows he could drive it a few pounds higher, but fears that would risk alienating customers.

“I’m of the economic view that if a bus is going somewhere, it’d better be full and for everyone to be paying a fiver than having two people on there paying £25.”

Despite being in a market town, just a few doors away from Harp Lane Deli, and within five minutes’ driving distance from The Ludlow Farm Shop, Evans has learned what Broad Bean’s strengths are and how to play to them.

With growth up 46% year-on-year in the year leading up to April, he says, “that’s got to

come from somewhere”.

Keeping abreast of what makes a delicatessen work in 2023 can’t remain in the realms of nostalgia for the 1990s, however, and Evans is a keen observer of other independent businesses.

He talks about the ones he admires, and his plans to visit the capital’s best-known delicatessens next month, “to have a look at what they’re doing and find out if any of it is transferrable from London to Ludlow.

“I think you can grow so much as a business by doing that regularly enough.”

Given his drive to be a model retailer, it’s little surprise that Broad Bean has earned its share of awards over the years. As well as scooping the title of Delicatessen of the Year at the Farm Shop & Deli Awards in 2019, it was named Best Small Retailer in the Midlands in 2023, as well as being shortlisted for the top spot several times since.

It was a finalist in the Guild of Fine Foods’ Shop of the Year award in 2018, and a runnerup in the Observer Food Monthly Awards of the same year.

But to invest so much of himself in the business did take its toll on Evans, whose mental health suffered to the point of breakdown at the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic.

“The not knowing was too hard,” he says, leading to the decision to shut the doors and just take phone and email orders until business could resume.

“All I saw at that time was trying to get through unscathed. If we could reopen the doors afterwards, then we’d survived it and we’d won. But it wasn’t fun.”

Though at the time he questioned whether it would bounce back, he managed to turn things around, treating the temporary closure as an opportunity to reset.

MUST-STOCKS Aberffraw Biscuit Co., Bara Brith Shortbread La Tourangelle Classic Mayonnaise Peter Cooks’ Malvern Sourdough Marmite XO SY8 Rhubarb Ketchup Shropshire Salumi Fennel Salami (and Venison in season!)

Bold Bean beans Aagrah curry bases What a Pickle chutneys Two Farmers Crisps Belazu Apricot Harissa Perello Gordal Picante Olives

CONTINUED ON PAGE 60

Vol.24 Issue 10 | December 2023

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DELI OF THE MONTH He reconfigured the shop - the long room’s previous layout had too many customer service points, whereas now, customers can be served by one or two people.

The redesign was so efficient that it brought the staff count down from seven to two (without having to make anyone redundant, as some were students and others retired, he stresses), and ever since, the business’ earnings have doubled year-on-year.

“So we came out of it relatively unscathed and probably in a better position as a result of having the ability to get the floor shop better.”

Evans does still keep a close eye on his mental health, partly by delegating more of the day-to-day responsibilities of the shop, having also hired a bookkeeper and someone to look after marketing.

“I have managed to shut off a lot more,” he says. “I like my job, but it’s not going to define me and I can’t sacrifice myself for the business.”

In many ways, Evans knows that he is

lucky to be where he is. 80% of his customers are local regulars, “a lot of early retirees, people who live locally, in their 60s”, in a town with a historical reputation for being “a foodie spot”, where business doesn’t fluctuate too much with the seasons.

“Most people will buy from local shops in town. That’s what’s kept Ludlow’s independent scene going”, he says, even though others aren’t necessarily thriving.

“Last week we lost one of our two greengrocers, which had been around for 28 years. It was a family-owned business which was seemingly doing okay.”

Even successful businesses are under pressure, so this has emphasised to Evans that being able to justify prices and a selection of products is what makes an independent business work.

“Customers are going to ask that question of, ‘why should I give you £20 for three bits of cheese’. You have to have those answers, you have to do the homework and due dilligence to say, ‘this is why my business exists’.”

Given his enthusiasm for the food industry, it’s hard to imagine Evans stopping here. Would he consider owning a second business?

He’s not sure, but he has ideas: he knows there’s a market for quality, fresh veg in Ludlow, “showcasing good quality seasonal produce, working with as many local farmers and different growers as possible”.

He could also open another deli with a heavier emphasis on foodservice. “Like a café deli where you solely use the products you’ve got in, so you don’t buy things in, you have somebody who’s cheffing, and then you can use that to upsell.”

“I think there’s some great concepts you can take from that, not just being a deli or a sandwich bar or a coffee shop, but being a shop with a sticking area. I think that’s a totally different entity.”

Whatever he decides to do, one thing is for sure – Evans has plenty more enthusiasm to spare. broad-bean.com

I'm of the economic view that if a bus is going somewhere, it'd better be full and for everyone to be paying a fiver than having two people on there paying £25.

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December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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www.jameswhelanbutchers.com | info@jameswhelanbutchers.com 62

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

ADVICE

Expert View AJ SHARP OF SHARP RELATIONS ON WHY TIKTOK LEADS WHERE INSTAGRAM FOLLOWS The editor asked me to write a column focusing on the best ways to leverage Instagram for a fine food retailer. However, nearly everything that works well on Instagram started on TikTok. So, if I’m doing my job well, I need to advise you to start with TikTok. Mention TikTok to most people over the age of 30 and they groan, but I want to assure you that dancing teenagers make up only about 2% of the content on the platform, and the rest can really benefit your bottom line.

TikTok is the fastest growing social media platform in the UK. Users spend four times longer on TikTok than Instagram on average.

For a fine food retailer, the big difference is that Instagram is still selling awareness, where TikTok is selling actual product too.

TikTok has an excellent shop function, which is described as a frictionless e-commerce experience, meaning it’s similar to Amazon’s one-click buy, but even easier and faster for the consumer. The hashtag #TikTokMadeMeBuyIt is part of the success behind the generation of £1.2 billion in sales in 2022, and half of those sales (£600m) were food and drink.

The demographic is not to be sniffed at either. Whilst 60% of the users are aged 13-29, older demographics are rising fast, as business owners are realising its commercial potential.

MODEL RETAILING

It offers a more level playing field, as the algorithm will push content to customers based on their location, search results as well as a randomisation function; this means that no matter the size of your account or followers, everyone has the same chance of going viral.

So, even though we’re in December, you could get an account set up and running before Christmas and still benefit from increased festive footfall.

Creating video content is easier than you think. Try not to overthink it. Record a simple video on your phone and choose an audio to accompany it. The platform will recommend audios, or you can save them from other videos you’ve been inspired by. Choosing a trending audio will dramatically improve your success rates. As for the video content, keep it simple when you’re starting, recording some walking videos around your shop, from roadside to front door, scanning a display, or staff arriving.

When it comes to trending and viral content, TikTok leads, and Instagram follows. sharprelations.com

I want to assure you that dancing teenagers make up only about 2% of the content on TikTok, and the rest can really benefit your bottom line.

For retailers cooking their own meats, it is essential the core temperature of the meats reaches at least 70°C for 2 minutes or equivalent.

If cooling joints, the ham should be placed in a food grade watertight bag and completely covered with clean, iced water.

For retailers who wish to make jarred ambient pâtés, the products must reach a temperature of 121˚C for 3 minutes or equivalent or have a pH of 4.5 or below throughout the entire product for the duration of its shelf life. Before starting to produce this type of product advice should be sought from a specialist food safety body.

When producing chilled pâtés in a kitchen for sale in the retailer’s own establishment, it is essential the thickest part of the livers reach at least 70˚C for 2 minutes or equivalent. If a shelf life longer than five days is to be given to the pâté, it must be determined using the proper process with advice sought from the retailer’s Environmental Health Department and/or a UKASS accredited laboratory.

This advice is an excerpt from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing. The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild members, £250+VAT for nonmembers). To request a copy, email support@gff.co.uk

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.

What’s your returns policy?

Mr Deli. Great to be here. How long has it been?

Cooking meat and pâtés inhouse

Gee, I wonder.

Must be last December.

Hey man, where’s the caviar?

Oi, mate.

Got anything cheaper?

Yep. Tis the season

Toys!

Toys, toys, toys…

Chocolate!

FFD says: Christmas may not be the most wonderful time of year for you personally but it is the most profitable time for your shop. Yes, you’ll have to put up with more customers and even more annoying questions but just hang in there. If you can keep everyone happy, they might well come back – even if it’s only for the odd blow-out.

With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10

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Ready to bake

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Perfect for sharing as a rich and creamy dip, Snowdonia Cheese Company’s new hot cheese bakes are crafted using the finest natural ingredients and ready to serve in less than 30 minutes.

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www.snowdoniacheese.co.uk December 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 10