Issuu

OS 689 M2 M84

1903

...

In Old ManiLa. IlZustf'ated .J!..

A Sef'ies of Pen Pietuf'es

the PhiUppines ' tures by

Capitat b31 Don Ca",los1Jl).M:usser

Ro~

COPJ' rig"l1f '90; b1'

l1flt~st' r

1- 1907fi

W. Squires.

mid Squirt's .

Aft nJrhts r e-s erveti.

$- $- $-

~(j)NTE)NTS .

L ~tWas Nig,Jt~ . _________ . ____ . _____ . ___ . _____ His 1Vfot·he1.ds Only SOI.l______ _ _ __ __ _____ _ ~he Sun CaUle Up . _________ .. .. _____ , ___ __ _ A Beautifu1 1\oI0f'oing . _______ _______ . ____ .. _ ,$ ChrJstialll Frame ef i\'Iind _. _._ , ', _______ . _.

®fficia:l! !Rol)l.)eEs _________ _ . ___._____ ... ___

____

7 S 8 1,0 10

We BDteFed ~b e 'Pasig. __ __ __ __ __ _ _. _. _ ~. . II A:n Er,rat·ie Beast .,_____ __________ __.,. _________ Il2

~h~oTi~:~l~'ll~~~a~~~- R~~el;~' ~:: ~: _~ ~ ~ =~ =~ : ~ ~ ;~

He GoE au iIdeal .. "_____ _______ . __~. __ _-<

~~~ti~~~r~_e_I~~~ol~t~oI....--

:::::::: \ ::::

TI. Soule Features . __ ______ __. _ Mailila is QOSltl0p0i,itan in bb e West ________ ._____ __ _. __ Occicle·ut ___ __ . __ . . . ______ . __ . A 'View at Night . . . ____ . __ . ___ e>riient ________ .. _______ . __ __ ____ The 'Dar.kest COToner. . _. ________ . _. ,\'~l h_ell Kn.ights \Vere Bolel __ __ _____ _0_. _____

.Iilt. Mawer.to Sa.l1t.ia'go ____ . ________ __ _____ •• _ .___________ Her l\1etheF _____________ __ __ __ ____ _________ . n!IaweFto's H ouse _____ __ ____ . ___ ___ __ _______ A Distrie..t. __ _ __ _• . __________ _____ __ ___ A iFa·i~ ~'ype ___ . __ __ __ __ __ __ _ S Ulld ay iFastim es ___ ._ . __ _ __ __ . _____

Isabe l

N~pa

20 20

2! 22

V\,1 e Wen t! ___ . ____ ___ _.

43 44 45 46 48 49 49 50

__ •

·0 _______

53 56 $6

!23

6~·nNi:~~i~~]!n~v~tt~~ ~: ~- ~ ~~: ~ ~~ ~~ ~: ~: ~ - - -.- ~g

36 37 40 40 4r

kt tbe Cock/Pit _____ . __ _ ____ . ___ " ____ -. ___ The First Bveut. __ .. __ . _. . _________ . _______ The Fight _______ . . . ___ . __ . __ . A Brutalizi ng Sport____ . _ ____ ._._ An Unfair ~on:1parisol1 ___ _ . __ ._____ ___ _ On an Iutel1ectual PaT . __ . -_ . _ . -- . _. _ .~ Ser.iol1s muestiol1 . __ . A Suggestion . . ____ .. __ . _ _ _. _ IV. A>'f '\~' ar \:V-itll Natur.e .. -- ___ SelJ1e Manilla Pests ____ __________ __ . _,, ___ . _ Baby Alligators ___ . ___ . . . ____ ____ _______ . A Me:w Incubator . ____ __ ____ __ . Greeel ___ .. ___ . ___ _ A 'fa!e Mo,e Abo ut A: llls .------- . . ___ .. ___ . __ . 0

J7 1!8

35 36

.M ani'la 's Gr.eatesl 'Ye nem e nt . _______ __ . 63 !Dependent a ll Friends __ . __ ._. _. __ . ___ ___ 63

PI. Snake StOFY _. __ . ______ _____ . ... __ . ___ . __ .6

iReceive No

i~sp~~:~~t:!le _~~~~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~ ~: ~:: _~ ~~ : =:: =~ ~~ the Sun Sets .. ___ ... ____ ______ __ _ . . __ 311:

A S~ral1ge Wl ace . _. . .. ___ . ___ . ___ 66 T b e BOlle File __ . ____ . __ _____ ______ . _____ .68 A Pipe iIllreaUl. _______ " __ .. ----- . ---- .-. 69

~Vhere

\~r e l coUle

__ _.. _. ___ __ .o_....

SUN F ill ed t he Rude Sa il s of I?iclnresqne Fishin g Craft ____ ________ . ____ _ A lA g hth ouse G uards the Pasig __ __ . _______ . __ Pas t th e F row nin g "'-aIl s o( Santiag0 ____ _._ __ Tih eBillol1do 0lturc b ______ _.___ _ y _ _ ___ _ The Altar of SRIl rguae-io __ __________ ___ __ ____ The !Erooad.way of l\jf an i la __ __ ___________ No Broader than Som e Folks' R!e li g ious Vi ews 'fhe Isabel Ga te.. .. .. . . . ... ... \Vben Knights \ \Tere Hold ___ _____ __ ________\- _ A Bit ef Old n'fanil a.___ ___ __ _ ___ ___ _ __ _ T h e Pasig and its \\-i1derness of Sh ipping ____ . 'fhe L un et.'l ________ ____ . ________________ ___ ..t_

r:r T2

'5 18 T9 2 [

23 24-

(25 27

Homeward '.fIhey S low ly W-end 1' h eir \Vay _, __ 3T ,"Vhereth e SUI1 Sets . _____________ __ __________ 32 The King 0f H is 'f"ibe .... . _.......... ... .... Mamel'1teSanbiago . ________________ _. __ __ _ A Banca wit!h Outriggers . ______ . _______ . Isabel. . .... ...... .. . . . ..... ....... ... . ... . A lFilipino ts " Pf 0J11e, Sweet HOlJle." ____ . . _ A Nipa ID i ~tr i ct .. . ___ . _____ . _____ __.. _______

35 35 36 37 38 39

PICTU~ES.

O ur Li ttle Br own Brothers ______ . __ __ ___ . ____ l ' h e Man ila Cathedral __ . ________ '~'e Bought P lowe rs ____ _____ __. __. __ __. ______ S he ' Vas a V ill age Bell e ___ ________ . _________ _ Fringed wibb Cocoanut Palms ____________ _. __ Th e J!n s ul aJi I ce Plau t _____________ __ __ . ____ ___ A

40 42 43 4446 47

'fo.iters of Hle F ie ld . ...... . .... .. .. . ........ . 48 On the Banks of th e P asig_ 49 1\'fangos ._____________ __ 51 One of the City 's Double Ga tes_ ____ ___ Lookin g for a ll th e world Like Baby All igato.r s 'Pwo \Vays of J.. o0 kin g at I t. _______ .Ii Pleasant Dri've ___ _____ ___ __ .. __ __________ :!\!Ian·ila Ca nal Li fe __ __ ______ ___ ______ __ ____ . lVfa nil a isa Center for H e mp . -. ______ __. Eadl ROOUl R e nted for Fi ve Years __________ " Donde?'! __ .. _____ __ ____ _. ____ ____ _ This istb e \'Vay \\it! ,,\V ash OUf ClOlhes_ . ______ i\1onarchs o f th e ~·aste. _______ __ ___ . ____ __ __ Afternoou ___ ___ ______ ____ T:h eyCoulc1 notPay tb e R en t _. ___ ___ ____ ._ A

•

••

_____

..1,)

57 59 60 6t 64 6S 66 67 69 70 72

_~[~ I _ __

CHAPTER I.

E left our ill-smellin g, aerobatic, old tub of a H ong kong stea mer out in the bay with a fervent prayer that she would sink. I am afraid thi s is anotl eT of my pMyers that is doomed to go un answered . [t was n ~g h~ when, we got here, jus t too late to land , and so t~e Doctor, and nhe lady from Yokohama, anGI the ,rest of li S were [c;)rced to rema in} on board . The rest of lI S were m ad , hut t1'\e Doctor and the lad y from Yokohama did not seem to mind it ill the least. I happen to be a more sensibl e man tha n th e Doctor, a nd therefore threw myself iuto a chair abaft th e pil ot house , and watched a flirtation hetween the lig hts of Cavite and th ose of 1\'Lanila. 1fT' WAS NIGHT.

The mool) ~"as )n the sky. This sta tem ent may be do ubted by some, thou g h it is none tbe less .a fact, for I saw it there myself; it lit up the wbole 路bay and plated tbe cburches and houses, and trees, and walls of :Mauila wit b silver, or nicke l, or alLtminum . At least it seemed so to me f,r001 w heFe I ,"vas sjtting, on deck, watchin g . T he moo n ,vas fu ll and pr.esMma,bly happy.

HIS

M(!)11H~R'S

QNlY SON .

'1'heu earue the man Wh 0 had :fo ught wJth IDewey on that mem0Famle l'l'lay fa llin g in to a eh ai,r by my siae, EemallRed: " C0u[ouna it'"

anel,

" \;Vhat? " ill e Hql1i re~l J\ m"t fGr sevenal m~lI,utes be ll:.eja h is peace; and bhen, Iind1ill g rue 0cenpi ed witb my OWl! refle",~i0:ns, a na no in fi!ne anmor to IDe distmll@d , he c0B,ti'1lHea: " I never can fOFge t t hat i:uoFlliJll g." "'t011 h ad bebter try ," ~ sa ia, for I knew w!bat "vas <l0mi ng, anrll ltnowin,g him ~o me the 01,Jy SOil of his mother , I h ad a mind 'it0 give him another chau0e. li)~lt it wa$ B0 Hse, the pG0F fe1l0w haa to tell aga,in how it a.Jl aa ppe1'\ed, a<l1 ~l :r ldstenea tjlll he g0t to tae ll'oint wl!J.er.e 'Dewey stoppea for coffee, and I eoulrll tand 1b 11 0 jOHgerr. I g ot Hp>, [0und a ma'l"li.n spil&e and with it cracked bis sKull ; a'n~l th.en , w i ~h a sofit clulckle 0f deligilt, ] 0a"ght him geLltl y in my awms a nd h eaveol bi,m 路ov'erb0",rd. Next morning tb e S UI' ca me up. Again I m ay be dOLllbted mltt ~t is wel1 tG Femember tbat appeara nces aFe of.times c;feee pti~re, and tuat a fa e.t t0101 in Jillain homely language, CAME is just as mueh a fact as a fact a.11 vaFdlis h ed 0ver wiN), high-sch00! aaj~ctives. For UP. i nstan ce, jf [ had sa id: "'~'h e ~lay ll>roke il1 spl enc;f0r . '!'be gFealt, golden s un SpF'.l.11g lightly from his co 1'1en Jilebi~~rll tbe Mi0rong hiNs a:nd fl.00~led the ,vide worM \v~th ~be li gbtt ana g l0ry of his presence, so thalt fi.el <!1 a nd 11l.eatft0w and .0!'ling u.plaQld , aml now", all~l hamlet all ~l city aW0ke. as i,t were , Dr0m a ekearoless sleep to a nelV, life of bea.J"thf,~l l a nd j OYG US aetivity. TH~

SUN

Birds tllilJel!! i,n tb e t;ree (eps: ~ he ir sweet s0ngs of praise, waftea 0n the gentle breezes thal came from shore, fi lled the ai,r . And as the god of li g ht rose h igh er in beaven's dome , ch urch spines and r usty walls caught fl y ing sll n1:Jeams a nd twisting them in to all tbe gorgeous colors or Vhe ra inbow, threw them broadcast over land and sea. A passing breeze, freighted w itb tbe . ieh spices of the mystic ' East, ti llea t be Fude sails 01: pieturesq lle fishing craft and sen ti tbenl SeUFryillg 0n th ei r se"e ra l ways 'oven Hie fua y ",b0se be'''itcbing rip ples da nced an.d as thoug h Crtls te!\ over witb diamonds . shi ps of war a nd co mm erce, fl yi ng th e flags of a dezell d ifferent Ila tions, added great ly. to th e . ent ranci ug pictnre, as cl:id alls0 the many little lal1llebes th at we,nt jil'lo!v in g a t1 â‚Ź1 jillliffi n g tb ei,r ~,'ays f[i'etll sh0re to sbore; a,nl!! w hat with ~l\e g ray walls pahch e<l with moss, cl ntllps of bamboo, ave nnes of palms and, and, er ," tb",t i~ to say , if I bad made t his state men t it wo uld have bee!! no more th.e tmth tb an the sim ple 0ue already ru at:1.e, namely, liTh e sun ca'tll e up ." In ned t'h e rud e SILI.I 'S of ni cttll'csql1 C fi sh i n g emit.

But as a matter of fa ot, ,tlie morning was a very beallti:f,ul oBe . Mau'ila , this old ciLy of magn ificent churches a nd iflying shint tails, is 110t as impress;'Je from ship-boaFcl as o ll e mi g ht imag ine ; it is too low, au(i\ its coast line is too s traig ht and monotonous to MO~NING. be in spirin g . But the sky was clear a ud the a ir wa fresh and eool, a nd all nature seemed to be at peace. As for myself, I felt tba I could more th au ever reali7.e the fatherl;ood of God a nd the brotherhood ef mall . My hea rt swel'led with lo\'e for my fellows ; the bea uty of ea r th ,~ee m ed mi xed and I)lended with tbe g lories of beaven, H,ml I fe lt that I ~new what it mea n t \'0 be born aga in. Hallelu ia h! was saved! the d a,r k spots j'n my life weFe gene neve r to return. T h e past, dead ; tbe dawning futur-e, iIlHJ1l.in e~l witb the love 06 tbe Di,v ine :Master. [ louged >to take tbe poor, th e c1own-troddeu, ~h e wretcbed outcast a ud all who were weak a nd heavy -burdened A in m)' arms and wb is peI' lo,-e auel peace into their weary ears. And while in this CHRISTIAN beautiful. tbis di vine , thi Cbristian frame of mind , the Doctor, ready for tbe shore, p oked F~AME me in the ribs and a~kec\ 1 " What shall I gi" e the Steward?" " H ell ," I repli ed, and OF MIND. went below to fini sb pa cking. OFFICI)!"L '['hen came a la unch "HIll o'fi Uncle Sa m's offiGial FoblDers_ '~bey wel'e cus toms i.ns peetors; ~0BBERS . a t ouce uni fo rmed an d uninformed. 'l'IIey were energetic and began theic diaboli ea l work without cl elay. If t here is one tbling I a~ll11i re in a customs officer, a ud I do u' t tbink there is, it is his ability to mak e trouble. rr I co uld make a mu ch troulDle as he cau, I wou ld go aud hire out as a Hoodoo or a J ona h. I would mak e typhoous s ick witb euvy; I would ma ke eal'1!h quakes bide themselves w ith sh ame ; I would d ri ve cholera to self- destruction. r would fe r ' a fact . But I b appen to be handicapped with a co nscience; I ea n '~ make trouhlle like tbe custom hOllse A

BEAUTIFUL

~~n. M¥ <?a'Pa~ity i,1I this ~espeCltl is l,h n,item i it dees n0~ ex<!eem tha,t e6 a tima'1 w~ve OF a \'01c~ne . , ;Vhen I get right d0WII to business I ea n ca use as much suffeFing as pe s~i1e n ce and fa-mille, but J

ange11<! d,ream oompa.r em with ~be <?nstl;)m h0Hse in ManHa. R ut faT the sa me FeaS011 that 11 0 aile calamity Clall endn,re forever, the cnston1 honse sce urge, j,n S0 fa,r as we were ceuoeFne€!., finalby ~arne to am e ll ~1, aum we entered a lanneb: tbe lanu Gh ellteued ~he 'Fasig j list whe,.e th e Fasig ent~Fs ~he 'ba~', an ~l sh",ieked i,ts way 1hp past ~he 1\. n ~la am

~11

rere<!l "" ' ma,11 eage 011 tW0 wabb'ly wheels at%e th.e most fiend ish spe0iiIlleu ~)~ h erse flesh I ever saw. .Me was all er,rat ic seast, t ic4l y elHfte~ved with a eearse bmml e£ herse hurn er i a 11 d bbo~lgh he m·id 11 et seem large e11englr te CFeate a resp.ectable nag h trn a,re, he beastem a 'IDa.i," eF tL\.e lU est ter-riifi<?, semi-retache~l

IAght'h(luse glllll'<lS Ilhe P I1!'ig.

ve rsible hi nd fee t th at ever ca me AN ER.R.Al'IC Ol'er the pike . If Cha in L ig ht BEAST. 1Iing could ha ppen aro Hn I so me time wh e n Ih is ho rse w as awa ke , he m igh t gather so me good poi nters. We g-ot seated a ud cl osed th e li h le cl om beh ind w it hout fi rs ~ lerurn in g i,ts ('0 1'],] 1)111 a tiOIl, [be clr iver thFew a way ], is ciga,rette a 1ld sa id ug h ! T he h orse feig ned s l ep: th e driver rested a mome nt, a nd t b n, g iving" the reius a sa\'age jerk , be Tepeqled. ugh! ! T he horse s howed fa int s ig ns of l ife hUb refused to budge, h e was lU ed itat in g . Ugh ! 'lIg-li.' {' cHI tseh ! tsch ! tse b ! tsch! tscb ! !sch i UGT, ! UG H JI! LOCO!! ! \Ve had not moved a s tep ; so a rter a nother brier rest th e Elr i\'er climbed clow ll , took t be h andle of bis wbip and proceeded to \' igoro nsly t ickle tbe li ttle beas t on b is stomacb , whi ch eemed to be j ust w bat h e was wa itin g for , as the circns bega n w i.tllOut a ny further delay . III t be fi rst act th e horse sh olyed us h ow m uch hi gh er t ban the clash boa rd he coul d p ut hi s feet, a fter which he acted like all old fas hi oned THE w b ir li g ig, t UTl1ed arou l)cl amI a ro unel , nH\ch to the a mu sement 06 a jew of his fo urfooted rell ows athacl\ed to s imil ar m an cag'es, who n ow a nd th en gave expression bo rude . CIRCUS BEGAN. L1n cn l ~u'recl h orse lau g h ter \'Ithile his m aster tried h ard to di ss uade l\im from s ueh unseemly

conduct. Fi nally he bolted fOFward at a go-get-the-doctor gait, but as it h appened, in tbe w rong diFection. The dri ver was some,"v hat of all acrobat. He managed to rega iu bis sea t, then 'ivitb a jawbreaking jerk, h e' br6ug ht the ho~se back on fiis baunches. Tbe beast was d isa ppointed but far from cl'iscouFaged er baffled; be liad started for the &iver a nd had 11 0 intention 06 g iving up over so tr.ifl.in g a cJ:Jeck. iFor tbe F iU pil1 e herse ther-e is more Ibau one way of wi.n llin g a point. ancI so, with a suc1'c1enness Ihat was con tFary to a,11 ~eaSOll, cli mate cel1sidered, he wllirled around and began te ba0k. New there are a uum ber of bhin gs a urutive h e r;se we ul d rather do than ge fO Fward , and one of them is te ge bac路l tward ; a nd ,,\ibile tihe d,ri ver c\;d every thing possible to ttrge o ur fie ry teed on, and while we eudeavored Fra nticall y to open tb erazy li ttle door th at helel us prisoners , the wide sbretch of the ri ve r got so uu com fbrtahly nea r th at it seemed no power under the s un cou1(1 A save us. An Amer ican policeman saw our predicament, h owever, a nd just as the Doctor POLICEMAN was a bout to fall upon my neck in a last embrace, he ca ug bt the little pony in his arms TO and carried him to a place of safety ; w bere.upon the beast kicked him three times on THE RESCUE. the revolver pocket before be could say scat. Our horse got an idea, a nd got it all tbFou gh bim at once. 'Witbout s loppin g for explanations, be dashed off 'It a Ol ad gallop up Sa il FeTllando street, anel th at we m ig ht HEA~~~EA. u et miss au y ef the sig hts of tbis orient",1 bodge-]!loc1ge, he ca nterecL from one siele of the thorotlghfa"e to ti be otber Uilte " loc0ed Letter ca rri er. It was an excitin g ride ; more

excit ing eve n th.an pillg \Do ng, and 'luJ,te as ~m i otic. ~Fash ! We cel'I:ic1em agai.nst a,nether maJll -tFap attache€! to auother erraH<>: b ouse 1hat was moing ~h e ti0Wll in 1;he same interesti ng ma nner that our horse bad chos·eN. Someh ow or oth er tbe ckivers of t hese enraJtie !horses seemed to 10se thei r self-rou tFol; the monoto ll )' o:li the . ituwtioH "fa begillni.ng 10 jilall Oil Hhei,u neuves, an.d to make matters LOST THEIR worse, the Doctor gnew ')Deevisl, a'nd wa,uted to get ou t a'n.m wa lk. And ~het> wben t he Cg~;':~ll. c011is i01J came Ol,r horse Iosti hi . imea a ll d €!eeided to stay th e·roe anm 1'I~st a wl1i'le, wbjol:J, I myself thought was a little j'lO col,simenate. The two ~lFiveFs were trying , to oll tswear ea~h other iH a lDtlxtMFe 0f thnee la ngmages, all ~1 ~ was try in g to get a bet Ol1t of t h'~ Doc;tor as to the oll,teome, w hell a lOofh eF poli eemam hal"pel,edi O il the sce ne an~1 ordered llS 0ff. By tl,~s ti me th e borse n am to be a1WaJl<en.em ag'a i,u, amI th e'll he was mad beyoll(1 a ll reaSOll; me h0ltec1 with 0ut wamill,g after a Cni>11ese eoolie wh o s t aggered al0ng 11 1lcLer a loa€! no self-resjileet in g !lllille wO llie1 eaFfY, auc1 Win o escali'e~l tll" lluFeaseniug fury eJ om remar kable _honse OJ' t he meFesti ac;;cic1"n t. QU'F nell'!' wll.ee~ €al~g IH e", e ne e~ the 1aefd1s 01 a 1"a·ssiug eanabao, a nd when we get .. m aUers n ntalLg<led aga,i n t he !hors,e was a,s !eew. So me on e swe.re ,an d sa i<!l the ~hrt;y ti'ttle l~e.ast was Ill> rna€! as t he eulst011l hOHse, auelL OUR ough t to go to t he same plaq; ",n ell i t d·ies. Bu t Dust tth ell we ga,j.nem the General HOTEL. lBianGo Brim,ge an~l saw tile p iotiH,resqne, eM Ej'u o ll~lo ' Cihl~FGh loom 1!l;W hef,;)];e us. ,],be hobel was not a great way farth er, a nd b ~' m,i,ntl of m u ~'1!J Jjlens,Basie ll ;we ueaehetii it J,n ti me to ekess for minner; rn~l t as our IDaggage hacil only left th e water ,fir-ent t hat lll orIlsing jileJ; caral~ao cart, ~'\\e had 110 ~!othes to dress ilL

'jIbe .lliuo uc1o e bul'ch.

)

路t'

CHAPTER II. H[S Git,y has featu,res that can not be described ; its smells for instance. S in ce tbe IllOlllelltous evellts so graphicall y chronicled in the preceding chapter, we, the doctor and '1, have I!leen ove Man il a from Malate to Tondo. \Ve h ave pnrehased hats and mats and pina clotb , and sheLl buttons, an d carabao horns; we have bought SOME nipa houses a,nd banc0s in milliatuFe, and no end FEATU~. of uleadaches and sour s tomachs ill 拢nll life size. '"lie have vis ited church and tbeater, market ]Dlace and palace, court-house and jail and hospital; but to clescribe Manila, wbere should one begin? In tbe first place Manila is a city of bare legs and orooke~1 streets; gmud oM chl!lrohes, s ll,m p路t;.u ous ]Da laces and tba'tche~1 b uts; sC3!bs and sores, hi gb rents 3!nd brai'n less customs and tramitions; dogs and dhobe itch and low salaries; doctors and lawyers and beggars; wealth and poverty; health and filth; h igh ideals and poor hotels; and morals all out of re]Dair. L ike all orient",l cities it is beautifnl and ugly, a ll cjent and modern,

2-J90i5

grand, mea" ,

an ~1

miserable at th e sa me t ime.

,II'AN ILA ' Manila is cosmopolitac, . Ameri ca, IS E urope, Asia, an d Afri ca mb elbows COSMOP@Li . on her narrow streets e\7er y day . TAN. If you care to live iu t he ,Vest,

'\ in the twentieth century. go do wn t he Esco ltath e l;lroadway of Ma uilla . H er e Hie sh ops, t he Bo ise, and b ustle , are purely 0ceimeuta.1. IN If Y0 11 aFe a S pa ni ard , Y011 can get a If HE d inn er fl avoreâ‚Źl with garli c ill, a dozen WEST. differ ent rest aura nts that will trans port Y0ll to Mad ric! , Mexico, Son t h A merica, or a ny other place ),011 lU ay h ave k u ow n a nd loved in th e past. H ere in Ma.u ih you l11ay d rin k yo ur Spa nish drinks, be p rescribe~l fo r hy Spanis h phys ician s, c0ufess to S11>anish p riests, buy you< coffi n of Spa nish u ndertakers. aud passin g on down th e liue , be b nried in true Span ish sqr 1e, wiuh !Damp a nd t insel, i n a S pa nish cemetery . A nd it ,matters lJ 0t to ,,' h at nation 0 T peopl e Y0 U belong; in

I'ho

]~sco ltll-Tbc ,B r o(\.dwf\~路

of lll\uila.

thjs city you may be accomUJodated wilh almost everythin g' t ha,! m a~es the songs ancl traditions or your own c('ll1ntr), t he dearest to yo u O il earth. 'Did I sa)' everythin g? Fresh cow's mi lk , a nd eggs th at , lik e Cresar's wife, are beY<!l lld s l1 sp.i Gion , you c~nuot get i,n Ma nil a. Not oakes and sy rup, however, are just as mu ch a part of tb i city to-day a. garli c, cacoanut ail , and red wine. The East Indian is at h ome here; so is th e Cbinama-n , t he Frenchman , the German , the Britisher; ancl so is the man from fre,ze\l, m ~n era l Fibbed Montana, or sun blistered Florida. An d by s tanding on one of the bri~lges' th a t SFlVl,l the l?asi g, yo u may see aud study every phase OCCIDENT. of life k llown to h l!1 ~ a lility. Eiene \~e see tbe b\1stling Yan.kee, bis teel!l1 pFoJlpecl open with a g reen cigar; the belted, s purred and, at times, scaorred YeterlVlI af the late war; the Chin e e merchant prin ce; the Spa nish grandee; the business a nd profess ional man; the civil sen' ice clerk; t be dnde, empty o f head a nd purse; the pedcllar: the flower g ir1 ; t he tramp; and on down to tb e diseased beggar in hi s fi lth y r ags. All day long two streams of huma ni ty pour over these connecting links be~ween tbe al GI anel Ij ew eities. Taken all in all Man i,\a is a quai,nt, i u~eres ti'lI g "ity , am!] ta fHlm), ajilpFeciate its tll) writITble pecH1iar ities, it is n ecessary ta t ake a t umble throHgb it at nig ht. '1Ve ha~'e had man)' of them . Only a few evelli11gs ago, we turtled from co nteJll1llati ll g a full JUoon as it rase in a ll A VIEW its glory between the towers af th e old Binondo church , a nd elbowed Ollor way down a AT narrow sid e stree t na broader th a ll some folks' religious views. One caltld hop acros~ NIGHT. that street w ithout h a lf a ll effor t, altd it boasted as g reat a variety of smells as olel J erusalem. It is prin cipall y a Cbi llese street. Rep LijD , Sh ill 'Fla't , O . F u,n, S ing Lo ng, ana onh en

gentlemen of t h e same g uil d have t he ir s ta.lls 0)1 it. w h e r e t h ey se ll a n y thin g fro m a stuffed rat t o a n elastie co nscienoe. At Jillaces the eave~ of ~h e lll usty ami

indeed is the most orien ta I corner of tbe Oriellt, with its fi lth and physical deformities, its ga u dy silk and j ewelry Dill y part ially re,'ealed by l itt l e oil bow ls containing floati ng wicks. The bllik of tb is street's business is centered iu its little dingy cho,,; houses, where most e\'ery th i ng v i le a n d uneatable is d i 5p layecl in open w in dows. Half

inoss g n iJwn h Ollses-

a ll but meet OR.IENl'. and fo r m a

harbor fo r s moke . and ~lisease, and a t other li' raees o n e ca ll ju st ca t c h g.l impses of a moonli.t h ea,;'e n , \y ith liere and lher.e a blillk i'l1g stau. fi[er.e

No b:ronder tlll1ul s ome folks' religious views.

d"esseci Chi,n os b linked a nd g ri,u,ne<11 a 'l<!l s mokled in clark CC;HH,ens; W0ille n willlli bFow1I , baFe legs and s illoell o a i,r , bla.;:k as. night , shuffled 0ver th e ll'llEwen pavement; n aked eB,ircl.en H).l!lem a nd J:0ugbt a ud ba wled a nd laugb ed in llae fl'lotb ~lIldeF [00t with flea-bitten CU'l'S, dogs tha t sn arl a nci snap a nd scra,t eh tilll tiley aJre 0J1e mass 0] Qres. \~Te well t i;(] fQ a n 0]Dill l1l clen, a li t,tIe 16 b ' 2 0 h 01e i... the wall, S0 ÂŁull l 0f t he [.uilles Qf t1'le dTll.g t1'la,t we h aa., to tunnel 0elT way . Eight Ch in)ailleJ1 and fW0 iFililii<pinl)S lieelin ed THE 0n 100)g co u~h ar rang elllell!S a llld puffed their wa~' in t0 a;(]otber wQrld at A\7e ceAts DARKESli . . . CORNER. a s mok e. S0111e Qf pem were a lFeaay 0 f1j, and as th ey 1ay t meFe F01ted ln a Rn0t, barely h alf clad, with th e i,r chullsy d0]jle jDipes c~nteb ed ill toeir b0ny fin gers, th e~r mQuths Q]>en aud their e~'e s rQl1 d ba~k till Il0tlfi<i u g but the yel[0w s were vis illile; a nd j,n tha,t fQ ul , sillQke-fiHed r00Tl1 , li g h ted 0 , Ill' by the lamps used i;(] pTepar~ng the pois0u, t uey Gomp0sed a p ict ure SQ frig,h t full y hide0 N.s as n 0t 50QA to be forgo tte,:] . If their sDJ,o'Ke-ind'N.,ced s leep we"e a s weet blJss not tQ be h a~1 iN. a.ny oth er w ay , the eXjDr.e'5s10ns on th eir. mark rend sa,ifuon fames were 11 0 indicatio.!l of t he fae t. A li artis t. wi sh ing to l~a i " t the i'l1 ter i0r 0f He.III' s ma,r kest @0T11 er. @0uM n ot fiad a m0re s uggestive ill o~l e l Uh aH ~h a t 0pim m de" . ! a la th work sa t t lH~ IPl'Qpr iet0r oJ trhis place, a "caDby Gtevil weighi;(]g Qut the I n a comer behin G d ntg tQ his v ictims . 1'ris teeth wer.e yell ow, h is nai'ls were IQng and p0 i ,~ted Nke t h e t aiJ.0lJ s 0! a v ulhue, a nd h is bro nze bam)' was n ll Gle iir-om tl1e waist Ii)jD . The Wood -w0rk 'Was black with s m0ke an c! the rock f1 00T waS â‚Źlank aij)d foul. "Seni or O'pioltHll s U1 0kee?" en 'l!Hi,rec1 a kim1'ly chisp0SeG 1 hea then, pr0ffer ill'g h,i s l0Hg lijSea pip-e a.na ,

in accordance with a n iub0fU instinct of taking anything and everythin g that i offered and mnch th at is not, the doctor carne pvecious uear accept ing w ith thanks. I nudged him in time, bowever, aud he declined with all the g race af a Cbesterfield . ,Vollid you like to li ve before the earth was rOll.nel, in the age of the thumb screw a nd rack, I'When Knighthood was iu Bo\"v er," and at a time whe n maidens \\'onderollsl y sill y and surpassingly fa'i,r pined in t1)ej,r castle prisons for brainless knights bO 00IUe and Fescue them j:F011l vee.ir irasei'ble g na"dia路us or tbe famil y skeleton ? " rauW yall like to ]i,'e at a ti~me when pirates Foamed th e seas, wh en witches and ra iries, a,net gia nts, and g uol1les a nd ather iltull'0ssible mons lrosities carne a nd went without let or hiudrance? Then co me, cross tbe ri ver and sit i", the shade of yonder wall. 1'hi5 <Ieep, wid e, romantic moat was a n efficient WilEN protectian at one time agains t the savages KN IGH'fS of the iuteriar; to-clay, i~ is the breeding WER,E plaee a nel h a rbor fo r mOlie mkrobes th a n B@LD. wou.ld stock a na t ion, 1' h.o5 ol<l drawbFidge, t'h0se heavy, iron b0llOd and boltec1 <loors,

IJlbe Tsubc.l Gllte.

" Wh e n .J(1I1A'illS Were 801<1."

these m 0SS gr 0wI.1 walls h aye wirh sllood the wear and tiear, th e ear thquakes ",nd ty!"h @0 ns @f eemtmies; "'li d iill t hese sto nes we'e lll,*en t@1J.glles, wh at intenesting tales th@~' CQlIlld tell. '1'a le' of siege a'ne! of gore, of defeat au'el viet@FY, of 101"e aud treaso n; anc! @f JONg seaS011,S of peace ana pFosperily , Bll! e0Ille! let ll S pass ell,n0l1gh "'Bel v is it d llllgeOl]S FR:\~~I NG in to which the SlIU'S mys never en te r. Y0n [rowll p l!.~ . iog 'J!)i'le is a C011'Vell lt, aUG.l herell overlo0kiug the Nl alM011 atod hay, is a JiliNll'resque mm,asferr, ql1ile ta e @ll!ies1! bu ildi ug ill the eity , LO@K at its hea "y b uttresses, its fnowB iug eaves all ,l pec ulia" a ng les a lld curves, its little w indows, i ron ba rmd, a,ll so sl1ggesti,'e of dark, f0\11 cells a n d , ' ..rmin il,fested C@Tners that @lI e call alm ost hear tbe shrieks a.tHli grmans an<!l QHLFSeS wl~dc h h e fee l's \.\7ere wrung fr @llJ. the hE}altlien in this bui ld ing i'll the JO l1g ag路o . It is a gloomy pilei a fe'lie 0f the dark ages , a mile st0ne stalldiug way black <i n hist0ry a nd marKiu g tile tin]e wh@l1 kjn.gs were C11jvinely ~'0 mlni ss i 0netJ.l whe n to thi,n k a new though-b l or to express a new idea FegaFGJi.ng cll llrc b or s,t afe meant the whipping !"osf or ibe fagg0 t.

0'.-\

bit. Of oldl Mmd'l li.

But Thrin g YOl1r kOEla k s and we ,wiH' explore this old wall. O,'er here 00 the five,r side we ca Jl get a IllOs t magn i :fiee ll~ ;view of the Pasig aod its w il~leJ;tless of shipplJlg w b ich w>Ll tell o'f 1I<La,n ila's 'gr.eatn ess, anEl: amgne h er c1'aims to t be eODlmerGial gatew~y Wi\ LL. of the Far ]i)ast i Jl a language rar I,llOre e10G[uen t t han words, Th is wall was 1nl,i1t a1:>ol1t L59 Q , u.n ~leF the Governor @0mez Perez Dasmar inas. It is over two Illiles long a Jl El is pr0te'C ted 0 'three siGle, by t be moat. Though l1seless against modem engines 0f de tFUct ion, ill the siX'teepth century it w~s all ~1't at i ~ \~as in cenaea for; arua u'p to t he time of the Allleri@aIl ad ven t it was @be\~sllec1 b y the iE l!Ir0.pea'l1 colony as a preUty safe Fe£ttge i~l t he e ve n!\: or a ser ious revolt by the natives 01' GbliHese . The n oaot S0 TU],[ of aij sease a n <!i death, lDea ll ti.full~' h'itilden tHid eI' its ju,ng le 0 f tr0 pic , 'ercl'l!Iue" is !li>aved at N!te bottom w i'til, e ul stone as we see h er.e i" the walL, a·n et is a beal1'bi.£nll [;li ec~ of work f0T the age i'B wb;icTh it was bu,ill~. @N

iIIAN l t A' S

Snakes? yes there m (lY be some i,n therei i>1 faet a g reat D1aHY ha~'e @0Il;te out 0:if the 11J0at, a,I"eI it is ha,n lly to IDe ~lo n Mei;\ tlhat th ere a'Toe sotiln a few re mai,n ing. SNA K ~ As we "wa lk a,rouuel ' the "w"aI'1 w;e ", illl fi nd, at th e "",UHer w,b ich m'eul00jts the I"egasvi STORY. 11l0l1tlmel1lt a nd Lune ta , au OIEI Ro use b"el0Jlging to th e go~'e rnmel1t. Am the Vl'ese'llt writing two ch a rming A me ri caH fa'Blillies, @ouilechld wi,t o the gQ;Ve mIllellu seFvice, awe tilomicileiil he re, a nd iot has bee n t he writer' s g00d for tun e to s lDe na HllDlerOllS bappr eViellings in th ei'r lange alld SWaC i(l) U5 <llravli.Ng rooms. @ne ni.g li1t. a few ,,,reeks ag(i)~ \,,~hi!le pl ayoi ng pi,n g lD@ng ill tne Cili,ning r 00m of this ·h o use, a eFas l" was he ard j,n on e 0t the beel f001llS. an€l, ~"li'0H inV'esboig a tioJl., it was fOUllG l to h ave IDeell callseEl by tile fal'li n g 0 r a verfl>J.Joe boutle forom the iliesser to ~ he fl00r. The A

'1.7

'l'h c I'nsig lIucI It s wild_u rness oj s billping.

ca use of the bottle' s falling was no more nor less tha n a snake, measurjng over six feet ill len g~h , and fnlly twelve inches ill c ircnmferell ce. The snake was fo n lld stretched froUl th e dresser to the back I!)f a

ro ck in g

cb a ir, and for a few I1lCilllleH<tis th ere wa" sCilmetbi ng d Cil1n g ill tha.t llOllse deal more exciting than ping pong. In the yea r 1570, Mignel Lopez de Legasp i, wbl!)se lI am e is SI!) ineffaceal!>ly stalllped Oil Span,sh

colonial history, and whose monument sta nds down all the Luneta, declared 1l'I a niia the capita l city of the Philippines. W ork on Fort Santiago had already been commenced wben he landed, and his first order was to tbe natives to hnr.ry n p tlie walls, so tha,t he co nld mount his Majesty' s cannon thereon for the defense of the poit and towu. He also commanded them to build a large nouse for bimself "' ithiu the battlement walls, "')ld another bouse and a churcb fo r tbe priests and about one hundred aQd fifty s waller houses for the r ema inder of the Spaniards. All of this the na~i ves r>romised to do and as promptly forO'ot their pFomise. It is i,n teFestillg, though, when we consider ~he " maflana" Ulalb its a the a(.e路r age. F'l~pino , not at aU surprising to learn that the lal, or employed in the bui\c1iug of Fort Santiago as weJi as the moat anld wa ll was Cbinese. Long before ~bat May mOrIliug when Dewe electrified tbe world, tbe S pa ni ard s discussTO ed means of doing away "itb the morut . :Af Olle time tbere was talk of cleani n O' it out TH~~:;i\.T. and one commission recomm ended that this be done; but th e thou g ht of seriou: couse: quences that seemed sure to follow the stirring up of tbe vegetable put rid mat ter of long ages, kept them from the undertakiug. Since American occupation the question bas forced itself to the front a number of times, aud under the Otis regime it was serious ly recommeuded tbat tbe moat be flu shed, hy cutting a cbannel from the ri ver above the Bridge of Spail1, and tbereby tUrIling in a part of the Pasig, letti1lg it cireulate around the wall and agai n j oin the river at Fort Santiago. The commission that favored tbis plan pointed ont tb at ill this manner the filth of eelltn ri es could me washed away, and that the old moat filled witb fresh, constantly fl owi ng water, and meariug \.bpon its e.uest goudolas and domesticated water birds, would become a thing of beanty, and would at the same time be entirel y sanitary.

1 a ll' look olf there toward the Luneta, see the golden 0.r.own the setling S un has placed upon th a t stone sentry bm" aud let your eye penetrate that dense, wild growth that fill. the moa t a nd climbs the wall itself. See tbe plumes of that pampas grass noddillg in the sweet bFeeze that comes from the bay. On one s ide of the wall is the surge and t路mOl oil of a restless, money chasing, city popul ation, on the other, a ,'ast, g'ra s grow n co mmon in which the slow ploddi ng carabao h as hi s wa llo w . YOllder the 1Dal~d, s tands a nd fashionable promenade o~ a gFeat metropolis, a nel heFe at a m feet, a quiet, s il van dell where lHltaLllea birds, into1X jeated w,th ltife's j oys, si,u.g Vheiu Jo\'e-erazed songs.

Look at tha.t buffal o ill hi hmd ~ nddle, and forget ),0 LHselves. F0rget tbe impulses that drh'e a nd u rge you o n y011r mad c~p race Jar p0pulaF favor; forget the appaFent necessity for the consta nt grindin g a nd corrod ing toil. See bow he rolls and splashes in the warm, r-ich mud; is he no t the most satisfied creature you eve r saw? And 0an yo u 1I0t feel with the poet when he sang : I wish I

W~I!) II

clirullllO

A wllBern in th e mud;

INSP IRATIONS.

n oiu Ilot.hin 1111 dll)" i(Hlg Ollly chewing cnd. 1'd ros! tl hlll1 cLernilr

10 mud holo, pool Ull shlldo; l' tl (10 notllin e lse but llluT"l c On the b llln der~ 11Hlll hn s 1l1ftc1 e.

1 wO\lld'IlL wrhe, 1 wo u \(l'ut relld, it wuuld 'ut. think;

1 would'ill

I'd jU1i lny IIIl Toll lin swis h IUl s was h, <ll'e s~, I wonhl'nb till1,,\' e, I'd " hardly bn.!lllhe ; By gosh 1 J' 1'Il dlltll1 ert Ii w Oll\{l w/lsb.

$].

I II tbe bay as fa.r we. t as a can non can shoot, is where t be SlIn sets. The exact spot can be seen from the LUBeta , the place where t he hard worki ng and hard drinking people of thi s city and nature tries her SUN SETS. goofeve.nhand at ky paintings to b a\'e tbei r ing . Here olle meets bra in s swept clea r of the upper crust of cobwebs by the inManila society j n toxica~i.ng b.. eezes s n mptuous tu rnouts, th a~ C0U1e fFOUl ovef with li"eried ser"a nts ; and here also t he ocean . do we find the midT beMalecon d rive di e a nd under layers, is an eKtel1sio n of th e for it is th e one deL un eta; it skirts lig btful dri ye and along t be bay to t be wa lk of tbe place. river, and .i s a most beautiful place, and A few evenings , especial1y so a th e since , I strol1ed out be t days d ie 0 ut , Uf)ln cw{lt'{l tllUY Slo wly wend Ilwir \\"lI'y. te the Lllneta, and sit ting <!lawn a ll an old belloh, looked oft' to w here ~be westeFl1 sky stoo ped to kiss the placid oce.,n. Tlhe SUll was a h and Thigh and fir-oJlJ sbot e to U0F1Z011 ~beFe b1azed a pu rple pa>t h of g lory, in WHERE 'THE

Wh en.! Lh e sun sets.

the wake of .v }ji ch, clozed more than a scor.e of gleaJll>ing sliips ef war anll commerce. 'rhe cjjay was cjjyi Ll g ellt and F13t l1re seemed to h,a:ve €o n ce u t'l'anecl a ll h en po'wers for. e<&ql1isite

sank lower and lowe., the hght, fleeey douds shifted and toek on new fonms, amI the coloring became heig htened and moce wilaLy g'T-and. But the sttelle cal!.not be descuilmed. T he lights eoi@riog., in ~a,ill1t,i'ng a of the far IlOF th , the blood of mattle fields, last token 0 f respect, the snows a,n a the eedars until the bea uty of sky and earth ",,as s iiUJ'p ly of hoa'r y lLeba,u0u, the r.a,yishillg . As M\.e SUB U1!le ~<ilig OJ biS ~, ;~e. <Ii res and smoke and moiten gFa nae lJol' 0.£ ten thousands \'otcaB'oes, tile pea.rls a na agates and saF'hi1ies and caT-muncies 0f a dOl,en wo., I<;\s, the teFro~s of hell and the s u mJj.m~ti es of heaven mag,nified , intensified, 'll1 d multiF'l iea a thousand times, w'eFe comlDrned <ril e! mlen~led i", th at sanset. Jl)a:nte' s Infer"o , $aint 'Jobu's visio)1 of tThe New J erusalem, Mahomet's d,eams of Paradise and the seveu hea'vens would not stancl a compa,rison , amI ",11 the formen g lory of deaa EgYF't, ancl 133m),1011, a·n d GFeece, a,nel R0me, ",II Hie wonders of L11dia ana China, DamasclIs, Cai,r o a nd

a·19U7~

AYALA LIBRARY

Constan till eple in thei'r paltn i es~ days were .eftectred with tn 0st lavish e..'<agger.atieH II.l tbe sillk411'\g te !I1est of ih at â‚Źlay's sun . . Ana wh en t he great 1.all eF fire <il'i ppea i,n tb ~he 0â‚Źean, llhe water riv pled my a passing bueeze teak on a CFest of d>iarn0nds. The c1 0uds t nrnea ~lJcte fo rtresse a na castles a m.c1 cburches and de mes a nel minarets, a nd then sh ~fting again Vhey hecal!!lJe armies, such as F0'1'1 0~,'ed AlexMlaeF, eEl,gaged 1n strife, and hecame e n ,'e10~ea in the Gj(fst and sm0Re a nd b \00cl ;End ca'1111age of cruJ11 mling empires.

CHAPTER HI. ©i\VN j" T(1)ndo, along the be'aeh where the waves have MAMERTO tried iln vain for SANifIAGO. thoosan ds 0f yea,r s t(1) 'fueep the shoFe Glean, liMes MameFto lila11~i ag"(1).

Mamerto :has a family. 'lJt @(1)11shts of a,is w,ife, (1)lle d'a!uglbteF,

alDGlI a J;(i)oster;

his rjg, wh0se waller is immediately tnildeF l\·is brum1l00 £I0(1)r, is not G(1)llntem as One (1)[ ~be family. . Mamer-b(1) Js a fisherman, apiil 'fuesiGles bis niirJa shagk which eost l\,i m t:l\i,rby·:;:eve11 li'es(1)s, he o.w ns ~ (1)Be-fuCl.rfih ~Il'tefest 1B a banca w\\1h ontfigge'Fs, 81"1,1 a fishi.ng net. Som.e £nnd~y morni'ng if Y(1)ll 'g(1) d0Wn to 'Donmo, Y(1)U wHQ fi Bd :Miamert(1) S~ntiag(1) e.i tber llleud.i.11g his net (1)F f<!>ncilil,iBg ~he yon,n ger membeF 06 his fami,!),, his ;)'O(1)ster.. ¥(1)U wi'll alsQ sse hi·s m~l1gJ1ter v,ith her Ta've·n l\a.i.r liangi'ng 10(1)sel~y

;\l u:m artQ StUftingo.

dewn her baek, uer shapely sheldders and neck ba,r e, for ber eJJ iy ga.r ment is fastened j,ust below I:!he a,rms: ber ample IDesem keeps it ftom fall J.j;ng oil Yell wjlM s~y: "j\llamerte Sanotiage1s claugJi>fer would be beautiful were it uot f0i: !'ier faGe." Her Hese is t00 flat aHd her eheek IDenes too h1gb,. Her eyes >we beautiifl1u; they are ~a.rge. and [iql1 id, wiEh jnst a troc1(;:h e:fi sometrb,lng aID011t them that s llggests what? Ah yes! a hnge of e hinese Moelll . Her mother's He owns I,l. onc-fourth interest ill II father was a Ch i"aman . 1)6 nc~ wi lib out rIggers. ISABIiL. Mamert0's dallghter.'s name is Ji a.beL FreEty nam e is it not? In faet from a Fi-liJ?ino shwd'poi'l1t, Lsaobe~ is a prett)' gi<c]. HeF month and teeth are peFfec a nd her h a;~, tlliol1gl1 >"ticky with rancid COC0an,l1t oi,l, is as ThlaGk as med~e\' a l h\~ tory and bangs iII a grea路t bush [ar helow her ~,' aist. In a picbl1re Isabel wonM ID@ a dream. habel's mother is a hag. S he is a good WGmam in Mil HfjR, t hings but 100ks, aHd there she. i路s positively si'n ful. [Ilf it MOTHER,. were trne that beanty is 0111y skin deep, I wou ld adv ise Mamerto to sk in his wife.

Isabel' s mother is Gnly sixteen yeaFs elder than 1saThel, b,It te see them toget):!er is a jDiciure thaJt suggests at onee wi.nter and

spring, orr ~udding life and 1iugerin,g deatb, To see tbem s.thng at tire door of tbeir casa, while tbe golden S~H1 is falling beh,i,nd M",merto is olaer th"'n his COF,regiao);, Isabel s1ig'h,tly raisea wife; she looks like his m"ther, rulDo:ve her mother, picking vermin for the years have been less kind fl'om he, thilll gray hair, is a to ber than ~hey have to him pictu,re ,that suggests someth ing and this, 'JHltwithstandiug he has else. Isabel's mother cbews beebeen as te.nder ana eOl1siaerate as Ule 11U'~ with her h ",rd shntnken Filipino hnsba,nds always are. gul\lts; :her teeth, with the eKIf you look in Maception of " few rotting snags, MAMER.;J;(i)'S metto's casa you wiU aFe aU' gone, and s]li!.s the blood HOUSE, find it c(;lTIsists of but lI'ed s",liva througb the open aIle room , a nGl that this room "',inc!1.ow, OF turo',gTh the cr.acks cOllta,illls somethin g, perhaps beddoths, rolled in a mat; a chest ,i n the ~am~oo floor. Her mouth is iUDt sweet. W:er hanas aFe Thalfi the si~e of au ordinary truuk; withered anel K!lotted; her na,ils two earthen ,'essels, one of them are [oug "'11a twisted; the sbu , I, lDlael{ with smok~, theyeoc;)k their Q\'er her neck and face as tanned t ice and fish iu it; and several ' and coruugated, iIAllbel, kitchen Htensils maae from cocoa"Jut shells, '.0his hOllse of l\IIamerto's GOntai,ns also a frametfl! print of the Vir,gin, lDelore ",hieh

a floating wick ill an oil bowl burns incessa nt ly. .Ma merto and his h ouseh old are Ch risti a ns. Now then if YOll take Ma.me rto Santiago's househ 0ld, his net and h is 1)oat, hi s pig an ~l his r ooster . hi s w ife a nd hi s da ug hter, a nd lD ultimly them by about t hree hund red, add fi ftee n hundred

.A It'il'lpinollS j' I1om e, swee t hom e."

sevell ty-Ji ve bLigh t eyed cb>ilG lFel1 , a na eleven hundreEl lD all gy clogs of assorted c010Fs , sizes, a nd ages ; a lJd if yo u ju mble th e sh aggy h ou ses all! togetl, er , GarrY ,tl\em llll ill t h e ai r, whirl the m aFo lrna a nd d rop them so that they ",.iI:I fal'l ,.i,ght si (l\'e -Elp. bll t in sueb loose an d fa mi li a~ relafi01l -

1l1pn district.

ship that the passage ways between them aTe seldom mOre than a y ard wide, a nd so tortu ous tb at to follow them is all,most enoug h to A NIPA break a snak e's baek ; pl ace a little DISTR ICT. chapel h ere and a marke t t here a nd a jewelry sh op yond er; put a pu,J;,l ic . hydra nt dow n th ere a nd around ~t g T0lo1p some Chinese, bare leggea a nd nude ftom th e waist up , a nd some scan t ily clad F ilipinos, male and female , y ou wi ll b ave on e of tbe n 'pa dis tricts of t his g rea,t city. !vlalll erto Santi a,g0 15 a fa k represenfatjve (!) f o li t' lHble h.l:own br(I Lh el',s . h is people. H e s ta nds about fi ve feet jn his plush slippers, llis bon es are s ma lU and his bro'w n kin covers them ti ghtly . His nose is heavy and fl aJt. T a lk to him ; tel l him t h at his l,uck is a bout to cb ange, tha t fortun e wiM smi,le On ili.m CLom t hi s tim e a ll , tha t b e wi]l! h a ve p lell>by of money a n d n othing to do but at ten a church a nd the cock pit; or tell bim t h a t a dark s ha A FAIR dow is h a ng ing over bis bead , a nd th at before a lw ther moon h e w ill be cFuell y b acked TYPE. to deat h with a bolo, and h e w ill 1I0t betray by one Illuscle of his bronze face t ha t h e is otherwise t ha)l ;mJi.jfenent. His face i a mask !hat hides â‚Źo mpletely tha t whi ch

-II

his heart feels; and you may study him a year and you will conclude a t the end of tha t time that you do not know him as well as you thought yo u did at first. You will find tbac he is hospitable, that be is genero us and kind to his neighbors and his fa ulily , that beyond his fighting ~ock be ll as few, i{ any, a mbitions, and that he reli giously adheres to the rule of doing notbing to-day that can Ol~ a n:( pretext be put off tiJl to-morrow. It has been ai~l that tbe Filip ino is afraid o'f work. This is' not true. On tbe con trary !'e is Oil tbe very best of terms ~-vit1.J all kinds 0f t0il. 'Filie average F il ipino a nd toil co uld dwell s id e by sid e as loug as life lasts al1d nei uber wo ld disfurb tbe other. He is indn trious when he sees the neeessity of being, but as nature bas hountifully s\lpplied all his wan ts, it is hard to make him see the necessity of a nything. .

But i f yon waut to see lYnamert0 when the feel,i,ngs 0f his heart break throu gh bis and in fact, a ll the passions of mortality. ee him at the cock pit.

SWNO;o." PASTIMES. mask and reveal 10ve and batreG l, rea r and jeal0 nsy,

Tbis is Sunday; a day in Manila of confessions, prayers, and cock fi g hts; 0f sacraments and 0f visjting,) da,ucilJ g , and h 0Fse Facillg. In fact , Snnday, j f 'we do not cauut the sa il1ts' days, is the only day in the week in which it is lawfnl to fight cocks , and so to-day we may go over to Cavite and min gle wit h t he garli c mob at the coc k pit, and see ou r fr iend engaged in the only sport be loves . exC'ur~iolls;

The Doctor and I went two Sundays ago. We first went to early mass. bought fl owers of seabby veuders on the Cathedra l's granite step, and gave c6ppers to the Pope's beggars. For ten cents (Mex. ) I purchased the privilege of kissi ng a print of tbe Virgin , pasted on a box with a bandle Hl<;e a frying pa.n. amI th en let a ]Door fellow wi t b a club [00t who could ill afford sncb blessedness do the kissing. 'I 'e bougbt cand les and offered tbeJ;tl on the s'hritleS of gi ld ed saints, a ncl then 'w e went forth rrom that g):a:nd place with its inspi riHg ml1 sic, its dark. beautiCul arcbes, its sta~'lJed glass, its g01d ancl si lver Refresbed in body and spirit we sought the pu blic ferry. and WE WENT.

We buught flowers 0\1 th e Cuthc:dru,l's granite steps.

a nd pre@ious sto nes, new men. were soon n tlder way. A sbaggy nipa Foof tbat sbades four tiers of bamboo seats tbat rise in terraces AT THE frem a sq,ua路re a.mpbitl'teater, perhaps twenty feet eacb "'ay. is wbere tbe mob assemC0CK PilL blecl. Tbere see med to be bundreds 0f 'r e0sters tbeee, all crowing and tuying to get at each otber. In the cuowd of interested spectators, were old g randfathers, men wbose leathery faces p0sibively gleamed with tb e ]Drospect before tbem; and there were women and ohildren 1be,e, wb0 had C0me to see the family pet that bad shared their f00d and liv-

-1'1

lug apartments for a year 01 more, do baH le witb the pet of som e otber house bold , uutil one or both were killed_ 'th ere V\'ere young, s trong, shock beaded , cruel featured, bare footed country QO),s, just such as hand led the g l1Il S an~ bo105 in the ins urge nt en~re ll cb颅 meuts; tbere with their CO lmtry bred fowls intent upo n ca rry in g home ome of tbe winnings; effeminate, neatly a ttired merchants, idlers and clerks were th ere to wi Il or lose as l011g as therre were souml r00sters to be p itted agains t each otber; there were soldiers, sailors, a nd marines there, eager for the excitement and anxions to muHiply their scant stores of pesos, a ud there was a 'well k nown lawyer

She was Il \'11l1\ge bel le.

Cr0l11 ]\1[a,ni la t here w h0 afteFw,wds t01d me be bad won a doll ar. 'There were America n and Eu r opean ch' ilians anel professiona l men there, a路n d Chin os, th ick as flies around a SyFtl P jug. H orse racing, orr p ug ilistic t0U,ft)Wments in the States are not m0re pO!,1lI 1aF t ban cock figh ting is h ere. After a great deal THE of excited talk ing, two FIRST EVENJ . hombres, each carrying an enra.ged cockJ en tered HIe avella and we.re i.n stan tly grreeted with a sho,,'er 0f Mexican do ll ar,s, accompanied hy fr antic yells in Englis h , Spanish, Ta galog, and Ch inese. How 0n earth they ever kept track of t hose bets, is a mysteFY.

•• The men stroked their figbters a few times while the excitement increased, tben placing them all tbe ground, beld tbem apart by their taiL feathers wbile they tried their best to get at each e ther. Then tbe betting grew w ild and furious, and gray headed vetera ns in piiia sbirts, white tuousers, and plush slippers, €lapped their bands and gesticulated madly. Pandemonium reigned . 1'hell aile roester's head was held whi le the orner rooster made a savage g rab at it, pulling out so me of its neck feathers, a na then the 0tber rooster was held w hil e the first Ol1e got some fea~b~rs, a lld then the whele crowd! seemed fa kllow that these cocks weue ell emies, an.,[ that tbey would fight to tbe biner end. At length the bets were ala in , an€l a g reat silence eame 0ve r the crowd; a si lenee so husbed tbat tbe deep ricb tones of rheir g~rlic breatbs be<;ame moue tban eyer oppressive. In the meanl,ime the seconds were taking olf tbe leath,er shields tbat cove red the spurs with one of which each fighte, was armed. These spurs a<re little sbarp blades of steel, in sbape like a M00rish sword, a nd a,bout two illcbes long; they are as sharp as razors and are fastened on with tbongs. The fight is all . With neck feathers stand in g stra ig ht out, the thoroughly enraged l'H~ roosters face each other a few seconds . They spring, one ducks and the other one FIGH'f. goes clean over it, and qnick as a flash 0f sun light on tbeir brigbt spurs, they turn a nd face each other ag&in . They stand with their llieaks t0getber and raise and lower their heads each seeki ng a n ad'v antage; 110W they spring again , ~brow Oltt tbeir reet and C0me toge.ther ,n aile death deali,~g eml,race. One of them, a fine specimen that has for more tba n a

,. yeaif FeceiYea all toe leilder care a fClll1d fat4er ca ll mestow on This ciliild, is ,-ipped open, iii dead, whiLe ~be other, slashed and Th"leectl~n g h as stren gth !eft for a feeble erow. Tile bets are paid, a ncl almost mefove the cv0wcl nas tinl'e to get ils breath, two fresh r00ster-s are ill trocil ueed a nd th e fi rst eveu[ is rep<'ll.fed. Cock fighting ;s a cruel a n ~l bnlita;lil<路 ing way of ga mblliug ~halt nativ es Ca!lIlI1Gt easily resist. ~early e"ery eve nt is ceFta'n cleath to o ll e or moth of tIle (j,l1<1ID m, lH~A B~Ui[ALIZ. r easoni ng conte路stants, and fil.1a<llcial ING loss to those "'n.ror~ltllate &l10 I1g..h SP,@RT. to IDaGIt the 'Iosing liO'l"1. A COl!)m O il , every S uu Glay spectade is tha,t of h eav楼 hearle,l nali"es, who h ave lost their srov;,n gs at the eock pit, J'etmnill g to H\,ei<r homes widl their pe ts, killed i," ' gory IDattle, lwder their arms. There is n ot one felWu<re almol1t a GO k fight th at is civili,dllg 0r humanizin g j,n nhe

mba hlike WtlS If rillged witrll cocolluub pfLlms.

The In su la-r

Ic ~

P.1llnt.

faintest degree; and in conseqn euce the future welfare of the race demands that it be stampe~l out. How tbis is to be clone is a q uestion fOf some fu,tnre eongress to (h~ei<ile . Fo)' over a hundred years tbe Spanish g0ver~lme nt h as encouFaged this ba路r barity by dignifying it with a long code of r egulations and, by taxing it, making it c011~ribl1te to the revenue of the islands. Nearly e\'ery Filipiuo household possesses its fighting cock that is !eat;ed with a ll the tendernes possible, and with ;free a.ccess to tbe living rooms of tbe fllm ,i ly. AN Cock fighting ill Matlila bas been <;.ompa red with pFil!:e fighting in the States, UNFAIR. btlt the co mpariso n is tH!I,fair. iR00sber.s l~ave b.aiFcl'ly as UH1ch i.nte.]iligen"e as pugj],ists COMPARI路 have and, natu.raNy, they are ~ess SON. brutally iuclined. If a r/Doster had the power to stop a nd think that the pagilist has, he would run before he would fight. 'When men enter the ring tbey h aye sl!lfficient sen e to know that they do so on a@count of their lack of sense, a nd still ti>ei.r se nse is insufficient to cause them to desist from s uch a n utterly senseless way of telling the world: "Here is a pair of prime foo ls." It is different witb roosters; they really do 110t know better.

'l'oilers of tbe FicUL

-tl'

W'llen a rooster is brougllt inno ~he ,jng he feels gC;)Qd. Like pugilist, he feels like a fi g ht-i ng c0ck, an..d in this respect, man aud the rooster are equals. 'I'hey are on a n intelleetual but when we fo llow the 00mparisbn fa rther the mau fall s the rooster does 110t seem to rise much. The man permits himself to he hattered to jelly that ON AN INTEllEC. the wo dd may kno, "" hat a consumm ate two-legged ass -FI!JAl he is; the n00sten nghts be€ause he imagin es, in the exg,6;R. citemenn of the moment, that the other r00 ter h as an unqnenchable thirst (or his blood, and b>ecause be bas Qat been s ufficiently Christianized to turn the other eheek. B avin g been raised a pet, he becomes a victim of mispl aced confidence when placed in the rin g, and as a geneFal thing, he is discussed tbe fol~0w1Dg clay with Fiee and ga.rJic l!Jy tbe sorro",.in g family. the the par; and

1" Cavite, when we left the galler.a, we v is~ted the 01d €hurcb and bef0re th.e alta·r we fo und a mal', frosty hairec;l aug poorly clad, A at his devotions. In his arms was a wo unded rooster, SERI0US One that bad triumpbed in tbe ring an hour before. QUESTION. A nd as we watched this old man in his rags, with bare feet, soilecl a nd worn , I c0 uld not heLp but rem ark

' ·] 9076

01; the. bilnk.s of the. "Pusig.

that the qHesti';)Il oj cock figh.tong is one of the most se.r ious our to deal willi.

~ llsu1a·r

Gevernmel1~

will lhwe

Here was au 01G! grrauc;lfatlleu ["etu'fning to his t,upa snac:.)r. a,f,er ga'nlbliug en ~he life 0f the dearest pet, aud 011 a Suuday, lia\Viortg a few werds ef prayer i ll the big, SQ"leml1 ehuFeh. 1'0 t~l1 SUGh as he that G0ck fi,g.l't'i~lg 08 a·B imm0ral ancill uIIlawfui practi €e rb)1at would have te @ease, would be useless; his I,ife's e'd,l1~atiou has tra.ug>ht him otheFwise. FH.s (atllerr bef0Fe him aHd his father's fatlher had their fi.g hti'E1g co@~, al1~l "'0U and lost thei,r mouey at the galletas wi·th the regulauity 06 ~he sabbath's dawn. It is as natural

hene in small commu.n ities 'for neighbo.rs to gathe.r at .file cock pit aJf,ter mass, there to bet a nd gossip anel €l:iSOU5S the uews ef the past week, and even, A speen late Oil the futt,.re,as it is fOF ' pe0,ple at home \0 attend church. A,nd 50\ w.hile StJGGES· aOGk fighting is low alld bntta! a'Hel s]]ould be sUPl9Fessed, i,t is weU to make speed TION. ill this mattel' by going slow. AHu be,Fe is a sH'g gesti0B: ilif C.(')]~gFess ~\'ants to w-in this whole people over and make them satisfied with OLd G I'o ry a nd 0UE FCilober tatil/fs OJl imperts, and stifle [0rever. the Cilt)' Qf PhiliIDpime iBde.JiIel.1C;lell~e, let it deer.ee that hell€efel'th alnd forever. ceck fighting ill these is)ands shaH be a free aHd l'toneralble spert, alOe;! til",t ill the ftl'~1;\re thel'e sh alI be two Sundays ill each week, amI a ht,ncked new saints' Glays 's halll be added to tlle calen da.r .

~ri\n gos .

CHAPTER LV.

HA VE just waged a success rul war on a colony or Phil ippine ants. It was a war of extermination, a nd after a b eavy engagement of one bour, I put aside the hlroom and waterjllall a e0mplete viet0r. On our back pOFoh , e h ave so me potted plants a nd h ave noti ced of late that the largest aud most WITH val uab le specimen was s urely dying in spite of NATU~E. all we could do for it. This morning I determi ned @II beroi c measures . I h1rn ed the plant over on its side , and in d@in g so , broke the ea rthen vessel tbat co nta ined it Wh e)l instantl y a thousand mimo u ants rush ea @ut to do hlattle. Battalions, regiments, brigades, divisions. wbole armi es issued out of that broken pot and ch arged with fanafic zea l in all d irections. I planted one foot, encased in a nuwber nine shoe , on their fortress, and it fell as un der exposing their great stores of eggs. Tb0usands of the litHe red Ali WA~

warFiers sei>,;ecl U·P01JJ thei.r co mmissaries a nd begau a ha.sty. netreat to some [Dla@e 0f sa fety , white other tiliousau~ls flressed f0rwaucl te iIlhe i1Iefense of their GFu<illbl.ifig emF'i'Fe. As I st0e~1 surveyi ng f he ruin, a €.0mpany of sRi!l1mishens, indeeili t here seemec;l -to be f0Fty co mpanies of them , caled the b eights of my sb0es, eutenecl the feFesti 0fi' bai'r on m~' jDe.dal e:l!Ctremities atHi under C0'veF 0f m y d,llek tre nsers, ij;)ega n to iUVllde sa€Fed d0ma.i,/i. ]louner autill !l'lJ'itze.u! what a w ild a.nd TnteFesbi ng chrurge they made! 'I [0Ulld it eXjDe<'l:ie.n,t to with(ika." f0r 3J few momeuts a nd cha nge clothes, but;. r S00,\ rebmrned to tl'le fight, and being armecl wim gl'~lVes,. water-pail aud br00m, it was U0t 10Hg Ihef0r.e t lla~1 bhe r.ebels "geing s0hlltU.." '[]j'hey: went d0.w n rt0 death iu my ri acls; w itb eac;:h I~Fea€ls[cle 0f wa ter tl'lo'U~allds were swept a,,"a~r, 'iL'he wl\~te 1D'a~1'listeFs became red wifh the excited figThlt~s 0f lPbtd'0m, bat as ] cha.l'ged reF'ea.tecl ly the newy little fieri~ls went dowu l'u aesjDai.r . It was a n ex€it ing :!i.gUt fr0m staFt to oo,is)., a ncl th0ngJl. r keF't Hie ne1cl aTh0ut me as <Dtear as possible, t'he e·nem y succeeded ' a numlDer of ti'mes on 0utfiankiug me, a.na j" savagely at~acking my rea·r F'Oslt1 0n. '['his, howe,'er, 0u·lly sen'e<i to l'1101'e tll.eu0ugll.ly a'FOflse UliY tr~sh 341a, in C011S"queu @e, uhe ba,ttle waxea wa,rl11eF. FEeSel'1 tly Cet<eFa!l @ueata.nt sllGfceeclea im fOFe~n.g hris wa,y th~oRgh, 0r over the <iebris 011 t he ep,pesite si~le a f t h e s 'natterec1 walEs ef !l?eta0ln" a,fid I d1SQ0VeFed him Jeac1~ng a vast aHn), by a eireu it0us Fowte wvVh the eviclent h,tenti0l'1 0f sln~t~j'l1 g 0ff 0ti1J); \vater S'tlPJWly. But alas fer the gaUa ut Jead'e r aud his hl1aVe [01>l0w:@rs, 0ne weill -a.i mea bhlcKet-f.uq~ ca.F.ujeFI tll.em all away .

-,--',

0nc or Ih e Oity'!; Doubl e Gatc!'".

" itbout doubt ants are Manila's gl'eatest p.e s·t. 1'bey invade every 1I00k and cornel' MANILA in tbe house tbat is not constantly wat~bea. Tuunks, warclrollies, drawers, oupboaTds , PESTS. refri geraters, are' all i.n danger of i;m'asiel1 by ~be.se lDes1q j,ittle inseots, ana it is a "eli)'

SOME

ce mmon tbing upon entering a bouse , te fi ll d tbe d.i ning taMe witb its feet i.n little vessels of ",a te r to k eep the a n ts o:ff. T heir o llsl au th~ are 5e sndden and fierce tbat u nless s Hcb means of pFeteotie n are taken, life becomes bu Fdenseme. After a nts comes the ,oustom Rouse a nd tben coc'kroaQhes. Cockroaches bave l1G more COl cien<?e tb a:11 a'nt5, Umt tbey are 1I0t nearl~' so Ilrave. Yen ca n 't scare a ll a nt. H e won' t be bluffed . [n fa 0t, i·f yeu a·r e as big as a heTse a n a bap.pen te get I-n the way of a n a nt YO ll ba~,e got te fight. Ants konGw ne fear. No matter if it is a deaa spider, a side of beef, or a man that gets in their way, t bey immediatel~. p ro~eed te lug him OF it , as the case mi g bt be, off to their bom.e, aUGl tbey are so aU-£.Fea f,\111 of zeal ana lov e of wack , tbat tbey will lug tbeir burdens, no maUer what thew are, the ,long way ar.e Hl1d to get ~bem home. I h ave k ,HilWll a nt to w ade d ea r throll gb a jug ef sy rulD te get a aeaa fly e ll the ether side, .aml tbey a re IIOt very parti3!1 to flies ei t ber. BABY

But te the l1ew-cemeT of tihe femi nin e gem\er, the most s tattl;i l1.g tJ1ing in Manila is .. . . b 111 sea·m of prey, leeking fOT all the wodel like baby all igatGrs. One lost his held the e ther night

ALLlGA:rORS. the l1ttle b ouse IIzarcl tbat E ves on ellr walls, and waddles a~ross the ceiling

and dr0pped down my back while I was writing . They are harmless li ttle oreatu.res, and ratb er a ble~sing than 0therw ise as the)' wage an l1tl CO.l11PfOmisillg wa r on mosquitoes a nd fl ies. A few weeks ag0\ 1J1,y muA NEW ch a~ho, wbile clea nin g 0ut a INOUBA;r0R.. b00k case, f0un GI IW0 of tbe sma llest eggs I ever saw. 'i' bey wer" pure whi te a nd so ,e y sma ll and ronnd that I th0ng.ht my 0)' h a~l f0una an ad ulb ~lose 0f comp0u.HI LU'ukll'lg lor :LlI vile ",odd lI'k c bllUy !\lligfllorS. catharties which, for some reasou 0r 0ther , h e wanted to palm off as eggs. I placed the little spheres in an emply perfume bottle a nd th0ug;ht 11 0 more of it HlI a weel<: hiter wh en a feiend ca lled to borrow five dollars. He said he had a headache a,nd ,,'as all run down ana I noticea from bis bFeath that his tongue was plated, a nd th0 ught 1!he Hm.e to exper.iment had arFivea. [knew he woul,l not refuse to ta.].i:e the pil,ls for fear I would refuse to lend him the m0uey, and I felt that if he did ta'ke them, he would never ask for anotheF loan, a nd tb at, ill consequence, I wonlel be out simplY one dose of medicine t hat cost me nothing , and one friend thaot h ad cost me a good dea l.

Yes, b e said b e weu1d Be wiHju g te tr y t be rued,i eiue, a,ud w Th en :r wen t to feteb it, ae a.nd bebeld! my perfume 1lottle b ad! fueeo me an ill<l~11Ifua t0" . 'ill'b e lili'1ls n,ad b a:td ..ed ea<11, a,n m j,n the 'r ll,i,n of sb ells were ~he deaJ;es-f J,jttle lii0a rc;\s, @oFke€1 up t iglli.teF th an l&:erveFa was llJt $ant~a, ge, 'Th ey were li ,rely 1,i ti~l e fe1l0ws with eyes as e-Ia~k at"c;\ 1lright as th e smilIe 0f llJll !B:tbielili,a.n q ueen , anm tb.e~' seem em 110t. in the least lil llt e ut 1ly t heir lack 0f fnest! ..,i); a nm f0ed . I p1aeed seme mosqui toes in tb e bettIe ID,H~ th y diCln't seem tie eare fe'); Haem . I then Jila fi ~WO l,it~.le Eec;\ aHts ill, and nOW J.isten to t h.is 'ta'l e eE avalJ;"ieiellS gr ee<il. 'iJi'he ants nO soouer p;t tb e 1l~tuo lll of elnat ID0tfJJe tb a.l1 they pouw!:em t1lilQn th e inD<l1>Fecill A TALE llle"Sqaitoes and pr eceed!id fi0 ~u g tll:eru t'tlil ~,fue SU)00th sides of tl'lf~ir g lass priis0u . jit OF didn't o€€ur to thetn t at the~' tbetnselves we,r e lilr·ison ers a.nd iH grea:t , lileril; ne, G~E " D. Clitillama:n like, they h ad fallen I1JleTl seJ1letln jtl g ra ey 1lTho~tgh t €e ald 1le Ht i,I ~"ed seme time ill the futute a nc;\ :they set l ab.~,ie~,sly . te~ INeTK to get theior JiHC].S 110me. \IVhe,\ patt way ulil the bettIe they slipJDed an~1 fell. T h ey t~j ed -it a:gain , a ll d bhen 'rug.rui,n a:Lld again feF seme s ioe e1' eight t imes. and after makiLlg a~ ·l1l,a H"y failillres) they w,is,?!,)' dec'ded te deu fule "'1" a,n d truk£e e He mosq uito hetween them. Ag.a,ill' they t l1gge~l ",nift 1l0estre~1 allGl twistecill a,b0 l1t Jilatkmtl-y !fer seNenaD weary ru in ates a.nd fi nall:!y reaGhing the ~0lil t.b ey i<ilun m it €e,kecl ., '!l'ib.eil: bll,riilen cillf,eppecl te t he bettom, th e air iu tb at 1lettle beca:llle Mue a'l1 cl slIljDhl<toreHs. an d Ie say these a,nons ,veFe maa would 1le lilutting it very m ild ly iu deed , 1I'b,ey we~e ilnsa'He, t1ley were liilion (!]'eif w it h ~he,i:" leu g ga:Fmetrecl 1"age. rund witb demo n ferocity, t hey d'FeJDpe<il oJoJ el1e eii the 1laID,y liozal\ids. . A rol1nd and a,r ol1 n ~l the bot:tle it sc00ted witb its Mlttle lDlacl< eyes n ea~l'y pOlilPing ma t w it h fen,.

and pain \\Ih;le the red del/Us beld g leef.ully on to e iiher side of its te n ~l er neek. tr,age~ly was being enacted and so hastened to the r escne. After some trouble I got t he a nts ou t of the bottle a ud killed them, and for a week our baby alli ga tors, as we call1ed! ~l\em , lived un molested in ~heir g lass h ome with ou t food OF a ir. Then we turn ed them loose. They have taken up thei. a bode on the waH behind a J a pan ese taopestry, a,nd of evenings they ascend to the great ocean of ceilin g and silently prowl aoout in sea rch of [00(1. But about a nts; I h ate th e wbole accursed race of th em. Not long sin ce, m y doctor IDwo WArS o[ l ooki ng

Ilrt

it.

saw that a

r,o

prescribed a piece of bacon for a troubleso me sty. He said, " Just tie a pieee of fat baGon 0 -er your eye to-nigbt and by mornin g you wi ll find it very much betteF." I did so aond about midnight MORE I was awakeued by a sensabion that 1 i magined eauld anly be Jilreducea by a bath.In ABOUT nitric acid. I got up and tumed ou bhe l,ight, a nd his salauie m ajes~y is a saint if 'I ANTS. was not literally covered with red a Its aN fightin g far a pasitioll uear that bacau. ACT-oSS the polished floor was a line of thetl~ pushin g ove each other in t heiF hum), t o get to the ' bed, and! r don 't CHe to live any louger i ~ thab liB e ~li an't e>etena 1I1Jil bh e wall! ba Irh e wiuaaw and ~la"'n ~ he ol1ts ide. I never told a li e in l1\Y Jife a n d <!1on 't bel,ieve 1 wil1 be stFetchi,ng the trut]] very much when I say every provi nce a nd townsh ip in ~lZOJI was rep resented ,ill th at a.ggFega,ti.a ll aF a,nls.

.s GiHAP'J:' ER V.

has uo sky scrap;,ug 1111ilcliings, bnb she ca,ll boast 0ne t enement that eonta ius over ' ,700 Mft;N ILA'S apartments, ,vhich a re most a lways oC0upied . (l~J;ift;'I'fiST The stmcture is ciIc~ll a r i,n form, three stories TfiNfiMENIf hig b, enelosing a large;, well shacled COlll;t ya,rd w hieh .is said by some to be the m0st beautiful Sp@l the eity. Notwitl;lsttancHllg tbJs beaut ifu,l c,mrt yarcl, the Foams @E tbe te ~me nt are all small ancli clark a,nd stuffy, aud t1ie i~ @ectlpan~s ""h0 are invariafu1)' aejDenaent on fFie ncls ana r~l ati ves, are as retiFed and unsociable as it is p0ssible 10 be. They ne\'er @jDen their clo@rs t o admit " isit0~s; the eh a'liter and pIa)' of cli~14.en' is never beard in this "ast plaee; w.eddin gs antI feasts DfiPfiNDENIf 'have 11 0 Foam beFe. W Ilel1 0ne moves in to t bis place he never again eourts the ligh t aN F~JENDS of clay, fuu t so 10ng' as ,b is friends pay the ,rent he keeps wi~bin bis li ttle r00m a~parent1y 00ntent to let Ib e w@.rlcl w;ag 011. j.n ll,Uter igl1o.rance of his existence . Both sympath eliic a llcl emi0ns pe@p le COJ]1e here to visit ' fu u t they reeeive n0 wetc0llle. Even

a nd grass l\ll(lerneath , moa n a nd

RECEIVE a nd creak. a s thoug h they were NO WELC0ME t ired of heing unap preci a t-

ed; a nd tboug h the little.flowers wear gay Qolors a nd try to s mile in their bed~ in th e g nl!sS,

an eye Gan see that t heir lot is not as pleasant as it shonld be. 'l'ois is a strange olm plaQe. Many a sOGiety belle has snddewly broke,n down and been l~ rol1ght here and shnt out of tbe g'ay world; ma ny' a ),oll路ngster has been Eaken a,way

(,1 907:;

years an d j' ea rs a nd years! But ,,"h eu their friends fo rget th.em , or mov e to ot h er l a llCl s without fiFst a Hanging with the la ndl orm regar.din g the Fent, t heir ~loors alle fOl;oib1y openecl &.., ~l they &Fe ejecte~l. N0 one ever comes here of his ow u w il"l: n o. oue is ever forced to co me h ere un til his health is h opelessly brokeu up, and then it does uot matter w bether he is rieh or poor; educ路atecl a l1m refiued OF igIJoFa nt a ncl

froUl his toys a nel play fe l lows a nd A STRANGE brou a h there PLACE <> to grow 01d and be forgotten, a nd mauy a n old ma n, who has spe nt a life tim e in va in &ttempts to wield fame and fortu ne, is shut up here in o l~livioll . It is a melallcholy place. l\1e1l \""i' o mel1 \ a nd children are never known to s mile or sing or laugh after t akin g up their abode here , a nd I am s ure they never cry or co mplain. So long as their rent is paid they remai n unmolested 1

ID00]7li sHi yO tlD g. jU1l0eeHt

and tellderrorold, @oa<Tse, "Donde?" 路

and ro ugb ; b e or s be, as the case Ill ay 1>e, is broug ht here wbere all aue neig bbors, and where all neceive ~b e same treatment as lo ng as ~I'te Fell t i paicl . No ~ nmale , no matter how ci'c h he m",y be, eau. oecu1'1' mOFe tba n one Foam . The societ~' is Il ot seTeet ; eaen room is rented f OF fi" e yea rs to:t thkty-fi ,;e doll a rs mex ican mon ey whieb must in every ease 1>e pald ill ad vance. AfteF t be first fi'le yea,r s the ren,t is fi", e dollars a ~'ear, a lld tb ou g b 1ihis is 1l0t a large Sll m it is m(,!l'e tb an thefFiemds of ma,n), of them @an pay, a,na so it is that a fter many years of pea@eiu) possession S0 me Mel ej ectea ill the 'most @ruel oIll al1'ner. T here is a littl e eh a'p el in tbe @0urt yard of this temerRent, and over it is a eF0SS a-a d ~be Spa ll is b c0ali-0f-a rms . B uf tb e te na" ts ne er a ttend servioes. Tbe chime 0f 1>ells OF. peat oJ." or g>a n n eve~ seem to awaken a thr.illl w itbin t bem, a nd tb0 UgtlL thei r llJbod.e lie iu tbe wake o r one 06 the bat.les of tbe la te reh>elli0u'; t houg m he~' are surT0unded tJ)' cO II,tending foes ; t boHg,]" t bei," found'ations were 'sh.ak en time a nd aga in by the t lHNlder of aFllil'lery ","m the ir walls were s p",tter.ed by fi 짜ing rifle tJaHs; tbey were a l)sol'lIteIW UnCO ll aew ea a nd ill(ii,ffe rellt rega~di'll g trh e 0utcom,e . No ll ati011 rul or rel,ig i0us a ies stif nheiF b ea~ts . T hey are aJ.i.ke im:p er viol1s to rain ami gn,111e, sonro!W a llitl mi'Ftih , s milles a ll l!! tea!~s .. I n a word . nh ey a ce deai!l: their a b0de is to e Paco C:Je rueteFY.

fllh i$ is bhe WAy we wash our

c-lo l~l es.

" What become of the occu pauts after tbey h aye been tnrfled out ,for uot paying the re nt ?" PILE "/VO mas ",ollig, vamoose bone pile. Yo n ~Qme sinor." Ktld so r fo ll owed my gnid e, one o f tbe old keepers of the place, aro nn d behind tbe littl e chapel, up a few weed g!FOWU step.s, a nd alon g tbe top of a wall !i ll we came tQ an unguarded, unsheltered pit4 where the bones Qf generations lay exposed to the s u路n a nd weathe r. It was a gri.m piotnre. ~t my feet was w h at was left of peQple, whQse 10"ed ones either co ulGl JlQt cDr h a ~l forgotte n to pay the , ent. r f s peecb were given those bleach ed bcmes wha t a lot of s tories they oen ld teJI. Yonder sknl1, with th e dead golden h air c1 in glnl" to it, was tha,t Qf a woman passing fair in ber day; th e l.ife of ma ny a gral1d ball given in honcDr of mi1~tary and naval heFQes. Those empty sockets we,e once fill ed with life tha.t bubbled over and made men crazy. The lOwer jaw a nd teeth we gone; they wonld h aye been kissed away in l ife had she perm itt ed it. That hair, fade d and dead now, was once a g rea ter charm than real gold ; it wove nets aronnd men 's hearts a nd made them eith er fight or drink to madness . There is a sk ull over there that cou ld tell an entirely different story. Perh aps of hardsh ips a nd suffe ring , of poverty , toil, and d isappoi ntments. J sa t d own th ere afte r the g ar dener had gO:Je back to his wcDrk , l,ig h ted my b ria r, and IQoked off across a field in 'Iyb.ich a buffalo cow a nd calf were pastured. Yonder was a u Qld convent, thene a g reat tobacco factory, and 0 11 thi. side th e Pace :Iii):e station ; a nd here at my feet was death al1d corru plioll :

THE

BONE

~ I on(\rchs

of t he Wil sie.

"He l'c /llre Lh e pr,Llde sev e re , th e g lly coqne t.-t e, 'l'h c SQ bCT wi (low IInel th e ~'Otlllg. grecn vi rgin C oppctl likc n. rose be iorc ' tis full~' bl own 0 1' hull it s wor th disc lo:ic<l. S L q~ n gc medlcy he re ! llere gill'I1U!OU"S a iel ngc winds up hi s Il.Ile; Ana j O \' iu ~ YOl1 th of li ghtso m e, \fllCnnt IHmr t. Whose every dRS wa s mnd e o f m c lod y, Heil l's J10 t o f mir th ; th e !'ihrill t o ng1H.~d s hrew, )Tce k AS the IIlrUC do \'c fo rgets he r c hi d in g-. He l'e nrc Lll e wi sc , Lh e ge ne ro us itUd t.he brt\\'c; trile ~I\ l, the good , tht! worthless, the profnll c ; 'l'hc dowl:\ri g-h t clow n, th e peTfce~ l y wc ll . lm!d ; Th e ,fool, the c hu rl. th e scoll nd re ll\llel th e 11101\1\."

'CBuenas tardes, sefion. "

A P.IPE I was startled fo r the UJ@mellt, th ough the \'oice was s weeter tha n a silvery chime, On DREAM lookin g up I he held such a \'ision as kiugs have been said to give their kiu gdoms for. A

w@man in white draperies with nude arms, wonclerfully round , and regal head crowned hy a wea lth ef ba,ir that mi ght bave heen ealled g@lde ll , though in it the sun hae! bidden a bewi ldering nu mber @f shades, The faintest suspicio~l of a hlush suffused her pure, almost transparen t face ane! lIeck , wb路ile her [@wing draperies only partially coucealed a form not anything if not divine, "\'V@IHLering at ber s lI Eldeu appea,Fanee in this abode of (leath, b er chaste and surpass in g hea uty, a nd abo\'e all, tb e costu me she wore, I 1Uanaged to sta mmer some kind of response in E nglisb, "When she spoke aga in ber clear soft vo ice set me thorough ly at ease though I foulld it almost im pos~ili>l e I@ s bo,," by my words ancl ma nn er of speech that I was otherwise tha n b opelessly

icliotic. I cannot write as sbe spoke lim! tb i is the gist of what sbe said: . S b e was a,n America,n g irl boltn tbi.rty years age i'H A1ba·n y, N. Y. She was t h e o.oly daiughfer of a ba nker whe stiU l>i~es at A lbany, a nd had, at the age of tweli!ty, maHied a Spani ard. S be €3!lled bim P~dre, saicl be was 3!ll offi eer jm the aFm y, ~hat sbe met bim in Cuba wbile I'1:raveling wi1h ber fatber , a.nd th a t a few menths ·a fter the.i.e meeti.a g ~hey were married, a.ud he was ol'derect I."e the l"hil,ip>p>ines. 111 Mau il a she became a leader in soci ~' drc1es as she lJja~\ been a t lJOme. H er wealt h of geld and bea uty, and Ped.ro' s hi gh rank, gave ber secial prestige an,d tOI fwe s hert years the ' v ery eartb seemed to revolve f0r tbeir s peei al hapli!iness. 'l'hen the baby came, a li,ttle pi nk spu, it i'H wbose bJ.'le eyes angels ba~l kissed life and 1ight, a nd for a sluort tim e all tbe bi~ds in the 0 riell'u tHned tbeir tibtea:ts tio one sweet, raptnre us Jove song; a"Jd the fl owers awl trees aHel S>111 and moon and stars g rew grander and 10\' elier for tbese balPJl>Y people in tb e'i r beautifu.I h 0me Oil Gra!. 5elal1e. The rough ,

old P asig that rolled and whirled a nd foa med past their gard en , h encefor th flowed in little that la u g bed alld dancea all the way to the sea .

r~pp l es

B ll t a ch a nge came. 'l'he new GO" e rnor Gelleral arri ,' e<1 with his h onsehold a nd t00k up his a bode ill the iVIalacafian . Hi s dang h ter, born ill the sunny so ntb o f S pai n w here the so ft breeze o f the E ast a re wafted a"r oss the Nlediterra llean , h ad blossomed and ripened into wo ma nhood wh ile still yo u ng . S he was a splendid type of Castilian beauty a nd it was not lon \( before mallY a decora ted Tetera n was a t he r fee ~. Peare w as amou g the rest. One da y th e S IlU weil l ou t oÂŁ the gilciled h alls of Gra!. Sola no, for tbe ba by died ; he was broug ht he Fe a nd plaoed in 63. T I e birds ceased their love chora l, the ri pples of the P asig tllrned in to treachef0us wDl rJpools; lh e merhe r w ith a broken heart visited the g reat conven t yonder a nd took to Caoriollg fur th e siâ‚Źk. ]Il a few wee ks s ma l1 -pex h ad fini s hed t be wreck , a nd th e bea utiful g irl fr0111 A lban y, w as pl aced w ith. milch pomp a ud cere mOJJ Y in 604- P",dro mOllrued tb e regnla tion period , a nd tb el) ma rried t he Govemor's d a ug hter, a nd , aft er live yea rs took her with his war b0ll ers, back to Spai n . Th uee yea rs la ter the ma ll w ith a boe broke tbe ma rble slabs on num bers 6;, a mI 60'1-. " 'Fhat skull ' wi tb tb e hair On is m ine, baby's wa ca rFied off by all Am erica n seldi er as a relic of this cellutry," tbe v is ion added , a ud a I tn.rn ed to tbe skull , a li za rd ca me ou t of it a nd sea mpered a way amo ng the bones. Rrom the com'e nt cam e tbe cbimes of ves pers; I started ; th e vis ion h acJ gon e, a nd I sa t alo ne w ith peop le w bo co n ld tJ 0 t pay tb e rent.