Mark Nicholls takes a

CURRYING FAVOUR Countryside IN THE

MARK NICHOLLS HEADS INTO THE NORFOLK COUNTRYSIDE IN SEARCH OF A GOOD CURRY AND INVESTIGATES THE RISE OF INDIAN DINING IN RURAL AREAS

YOU MAY, ON THE FACE OF IT, think the search for an authentic Indian restaurant tucked away in the depths of the Norfolk countryside may be a fruitless one.

Not so.

While Norwich, and the county’s market towns, are very well-served with a range of curry houses - from the traditional flock-wallpapered eateries to those that aim for more of an up-market touch - there is another dimension to eating an Indian meal in Norfolk.

And that is the village curry house - surprisingly, you don’t have to look that far to find a good one.

What is also reassuring is that these restaurants that have sprung up in recent years have often moved into former village pubs, meaning that while the old-style drinking establishment may have been lost, the bricks and mortar have been retained for communal benefit rather than converted into housing or left to decay.

What is more, these restaurants fully recognise how hard they have to work to lure diners from the towns and the big city, to venture out into the countryside for a firstclass curry.

Indeed, this is something they have actually become quite adept at.

To do that, they offer a customer-focused blend of individuality in their menus, combined with deliciously tasty dishes, plus plenty of parking and bar areas for predinner or after dinner drinks. And that hits the spot for me.

Here, I have highlighted four such rural curry houses – and all are surviving and thriving by offering something a little different.

Tamarind, established in 2013, is in the Broads at Blofield Heath and was converted from the former Two Friend pubs into an Indian restaurant.

Already renowned, it has a unique ethos, combining traditional with innovative dishes from the Indian sub-continent.

Alongside kormas, baltis, byrianis, vindaloo and onion bhajis, expect to see appealing specials on the menu such as shahi raan (slow-cooked lamb shanks) or beguni sea bass, and the hot sweet and sour prawn pathia, plus a great selection of side dishes.

Owner Giyash Miah has a clear philosophy on the key to a successful village curry house: innovative menus and a community spirit.

‘Being successful in this location,’ he explains, ‘is about creating a good ambience, using great ingredients and very much being part of the community that we are in. It is also about personality, too.’

Passionate and enthusiastic, he also points to distinct taste, subtle aromas and ingredients and using new methods and techniques to make dishes, and being bold in trying out combinations that may not necessarily work in an inner-city location.

‘We can try the dishes with our regular customers and see what works with them before adding them to our menu,’ he adds.

‘It is important that we have that good rapport with our local community. I like to work very closely with our customers and I would say that 70-80 per cent of them have my number. It is important to integrate with the community and that is why we have this fantastic relationship and success in the village.’

Tamarind has a large dining area with Indian artefacts adding to the atmosphere and a food ethos that sees Bangladeshi cuisine blended with a touch of innovation and individuality.

From the heart of the Broads, to Breckland, rural curry houses are on the up and the concept has been successfully repeated in the village of Yaxham between Dereham and Mattishall, with Rani’s.

Again occupying a former pub, the restaurant is in what was once the Windmill and has seen the licensed premises retained and revived as a community asset serving fine Indian cuisine.

The interior is stylish, cosy and welcoming with a friendly bar and a restaurant area that is bright and spacious.

Of course, food is the key element and once again Rani’s seeks to attract customers with a varied menu that combines tradition with innovation and variety.

Feast recently enjoyed a mid-week meal at Rani’s with the restaurant buzzing and busy on a Tuesday night. Our choice included prawn puris to start – with a lively spicy kick to match – and then ranging from the mild and creamy chicken Malaya main through to a sizzling lamb tikka bahari, hot and tasty with the flavours of the spices oozing through. The menu also includes rasoi (in a coriander sauce) or rangpuri (with minty spinach) dishes.

Indian cuisine has taken on a new sophistication; it has seen dishes become more subtle, diversified and embrace the whole subcontinent from Nepal in the north and Pakistan and Bangladesh through India, down to the hot curries of Goa and Tamil Nadu to Ceylon.

While these two restaurants have embraced this and paved the way for the rural curry in Norfolk, they are not alone.

Just outside Watton at Carbrooke, off the main road towards Norwich, is Unique Spice.

This time occupying a space in a row of shops at Blenheim Grange on Norwich Road, Unique Spice endeavours to offer a unique dining experience with décor and service.

While under the banner of Indian cuisine, the dishes are of Bangladeshi origin with fish a speciality, such as the Bengal fish bhuna. Also look out for the xacuti chicken and the king prawn hariali.

Not far out of Norwich, the Duke of Delhi continues the theme, here again occupying a village pub at Saxlingham Thorpe to good effect and with a menu to match including Goan salmon curry and lamb shank bhuna.

All of these countryside curry houses survive by offering something a little different to their city centre counterparts with plenty of individuality and acutely aware of their place in their own rural communities. Factbox TAMARIND Woodbastwick Road, Blofield Heath Tel. 01603 716622 www.tamarindblofield.co.uk RANI’S Norwich Road, Yaxham Tel. 01362 692515 www.ranisindiandining.co.uk UNIQUE SPICE Carbrooke Tel. 01953 884231 www.facebook.com/Unique. Spice.OfficialPage DUKE OF DELHI Saxlingham Thorpe Tel. 01508 470086 www.dukedelhi.co.uk

COUPLES THAT COOK TOGETHER...

Many of us go out for dinner to celebrate Valentine’s but you can stay in and cook - together. Here are three recipes designed just for two!

RETURN OF THE MAC

HERE’S A SUPER EASY FISH DISH FROM ROCKY BOTTOMS IN NORTH NORFOLK -PERFECT FOR A STRESS FREE VALENTINE’S DINNER

RECIPE Lobster Crab Mac & Cheese

150g of macaroni; 75g of cheese; 1 large crab; 1 lobster, halved; ¼ cup of Atlantic prawns FOR THE WHITE SAUCE Half a 330ml can of Moon Gazer Jackalope Ginger Lager; 250ml of milk; 65g of butter; 30g of plain flour; ½ onion, finely chopped; salt and pepper; smoked paprika FOR THE TOPPING 25g of breadcrumbs; zest of half a lime; 10g of cheese; freshly chopped chives

S E R V E S 2 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Cook your macaroni according to packet instructions – make sure to leave it a little al dente as it will later go in the oven. FOR THE TOPPING Mix the breadcrumbs, lime zest and cheese together.

FOR THE WHITE SAUCE Melt the butter and the chopped onion together, slowly adding the flour until a paste forms, then add the milk and Jackalope lager slowly, bit by bit.

Then add the crabs and prawns along with the cheese. Mix this through with the cooked macaroni, adding the salt and pepper and a pinch of smoked paprika. Place into two individual bowls, and top with the chopped lobster and breadcrumb mix. Bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes or until the top is golden. Top with the chopped chives.

w w w . r o c k y b o t t o m s . c o . u k

THE ULTIMATE STEAK NIGHT

REBECCA MAYHEW OF OLD HALL FARM AT WOODTON, NEAR BUNGAY, PLAYS IT STRAIGHT DOWN THE LINE WITH THIS STEAK SUPPER FOR TWO

www.oldhallfarm.co.uk

steak supper RECIPE

2S E R V E S

The most important thing when choosing your steak, regardless of which type (sirloin, ribeye, fillet), is of course making sure that you’re buying top quality meat, and your local butcher is undoubtedly the best place to do so. The main factors affecting flavour are hanging time (don’t accept anything under 21 days - preferably 28 and above), and what the animal has been fed. Purely pasture fed rare breed beef is simply the most delicious, and in terms of nutrition, is way above the rest.

2 x sirloin steaks, each 2cm thick and around 200g; rapeseed oil; raw Jersey butter; 1 garlic clove, peeled and bashed; a sprig of rosemary or thyme Leave your steaks out to come to room temperature for at least an hour and a half before cooking – it makes a huge difference. Pat them dry with kitchen roll and season well with sea salt and pepper on both sides. Take a heavy based frying pan, add around 1tbsp of oil and start to heat the pan – when the oil is shimmering turn the heat down and add a really good knob of Jersey butter (about 50g or to taste). When the butter has melted, add the steaks, herbs and garlic. I like to turn the steaks every 30 seconds or so to ensure they get an even colour.

Don’t be afraid to take them quite dark as it’ll add to the flavour. For rare steaks, cook each one for 3-4 minutes, 5-6 minutes for medium and 7-8 minutes for well done. Serve with Yare Valley horseradish sauce, roasted seasonal vegetables, and sautéed potatoes.

OLD HALL FARM has a café, a butchery counter and a well stocked farm shop. Also look out for special evening events and more!