The Correspondent, April 1998

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Indonesia in turmoil Chinese caught irr the crossfire The Month of Living Comfortably

Emotional return to Ktre Sanh The gteat Internet free-forall

Canoil THD CORRXSPONDDNT

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April

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THE FOREIGN CORRESPO¡IDENTS'

Albet

Indonesia's ongoing crßis bas caused. aflutry in tbe region's media ønd. aþPrebension ín tbe country's Chinese community

uflrb

fu.

CLIIB 2 Lower

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199E

Road, Hong Kong

Telephone: 2521 l51l Fax:28ß4092 E-mail: fcc@fcchk.org

Presldent Keith Richburg Diane Slormont Flßt Vlce Presldent Second Vlce Pr€sldett - Karin Malmström

t

Ð

-

Corespondent Member Goverrrors Mike Gonzalez, Andrew Higgins, Robin Lynam, Christopher Slaughter, Hubert van Es, Stephen Vines

A ueteran of ø landmark Vietnam'lYar conflict - the siege ofKbe Sanb - reuisits tbe battlefield JO years later

JoüfTrâllet Membef Govefnos Andrew Lynch, Fmncis Moriarty

Assoclate Membea Govefnoß 'Villiam H. Areson CorbenJr Jr., John Mike Smith, Jrrlian rValsh

,

Prcfesslonâl comñltte€ Conænor Keith Richburg

Multl-medla CÆmmlttee

þ'

Conúenor: Diane

SÌofroît

Itts not quite a. reciprocal uaüering bole

Flnance & Plannlng Conmlttee Conuenor JulianWalsh and Diane Stomont

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but tbe Hanoi Press Club bøs ø certain for uisiting media

sometlóing

Membershlp Comnlttee ConLenor Hxberl v^n Es Trcan t re r J tlian'il/ al sh F

& B and Entertaft¡meflt CoDmlttee Co-coflrenoß : Robin Lynam and Karin Malmst¡öm

Wall Comñlttee

Conænor: }{tben van Es

SourDAy you wANT T0 BE IUST rrKE EVERvoNTE ErsE

Conueno r:

F

Pffis Commlttee runcis Moriarly

FCC General Mariager Robert Sanders

Ihe Correspondent

Billions of d.ollars baue uanisbed and. entire nations are uerging on bankntþtcy, but tbe

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...

FoR Youn Bnsr SHor

April 1998 TEE

GORRXSPOITDDIIT

-T

modern age. The staff right now is busy inputting the membership list into the new system, and you should

in place, and we'll have a solid

soon begin to see the resnlts in faster,

some bad news?

If I were to really "pull a Clinton," I might leave the bad news for others to explain, and just exit stage leftwhile the audience is still clapping. But,

mole efficient service.

And just one final thought on the subject of bills and accounts; I'd iike to appeal to allmembers to payyourbills on time, at the end of the month, when

your invoice is received.

Back in the black

Many

black.

right. It's no April Fool's After years of financial 1oke. haemorrhaging, the Club is at the moment making a modest profit That's

liveliest professional and social venue

in town.

There are of course other factors accounting for our financía| position today. First, our membership drive has succeeded in allowing us to keep pace with the numbers of people who

isn't over. 'SØe still need rnembers.

And now that the huge number of departures has tapered off, lhose new members you sign up will count for even more, boosting our membership

and putting us into an even stronger

about HK$90,000 through the February

colonial rule. The pastl2 months has

financial position. Take an application form with you from the reception area the next time you visit the Club, and

accounts, and HK$600,000 up [o

seen a huge turnover in Hong Kong,

pass

March. The amount is small, but marks

and the deparlure of many of our long-time members, as well as some newcomers who only joined us for The Big Event. 'We've lost a couple hundred members by -y colÌnt sometimes leaving in groups of 30

a

dramatic turnaround from the $3 loss we rackedup forthe same period last year.

As Club President, I'd love to be able to take credit for the financial

million

- but then I might be of "doing a Clinton," which doesn't mean indulging in any Oval

pulled up stakes with the end of

it along to a friend or office colleague. And give us your ideas for new groups we might target, just as in February we opened our doors for two weeks to local journalists to come and have a look (and, yes, even flight attendants are welcome here, Nury!)

Of course there are other reasons the Club is in better shape financially

turnaround

each month, up through March

accused

in our informal survey, conducted by the front office, almost all said they

Office indiscretions with the staff, but rather taking credit for favourable events as theyunfold. Bill Clinton may

were leaving the Club simply because

inherited by the lastboard

they were transferring from Hong

And the previons board made the

Kong to new locations abroad. Almost all said they would miss the FCC. \ùØhat's miraculous about that huge drop in membership is that we have stayed steady, atabout L,450 members.

And we have stayed steady because

necessary decision

not be directly responsible for America's booming stock market or low unemployment, just like George Bush didn't single-handedly end the Cold \X/ar. And like them, I seem to be in the right chat at the right time.

Forus, the "righttime," of course,

was the Handover, which added handsomely to Club coffers by generating tremendous new business

in our dining rooms and main bar.

Largely accounting for our new

-

and

our concerted membership drive has brought in a couple hundred new members to replace those who have pulled up stakes. 'ùØe are still far lower than I had wanted us to be - and some of you faithful readers of this column mayrecall I setagoalof I,500 members

financial position is the fact that food

for the beginning of this year. But

and beverage sales this year are higher

given the large number of departures, the fact that we have stayed even is, I think, I testament to the hard work of our front office staff andall those who

than last. And anyone who tried to squeeze in around the jam-packed bar lastJune, or who attended one of our

successful Handover

press

conferences upstairs, will remember how the Club became, for a while, the

helped out

in our

Members Get

Members Campaign.

And, by the way

-

the campaign

now. The

seriously, we are lacing a malor

last minute, taking advantage of our

financial problem over the long term, whichis goingto have to be addressed rvith some tough, big and very painful

generolls "gtace" period before the postings list is made. This is simply

decisions. !7hat's the problem? Our current

it's unfair to members

profit, though real, is a bit illusory, helped, as I said, by the increased Handover revenue. Next year, our payroll costs will rise, 6 pel cent or so if we follow the Hong Kong average , and for us, that increase can virtually

members habituallywait until the very

unacceptable

-

who pay on tirne, it disrlrpts our front irst, the good news; almost one year since the current board was elected to office, the FCC is in the

membership base.

Oh, yes. And did I say there was

office staff that must take endiess time chasing the late-payers, and itviolates the spi'it of the Club.

For members who use Hong Kong as a regional base and travel frequently outside, we urge you to Llse the autopay system, so yollr bills are settled even when you are olrt of town. For others, please, pay up and pay on time - it helps the Club all around.

Now the next board, to be led by incoming President and current vice-

president Diane Stormont, and incoming First Vice-President Mike Gonzalez (both running unopposed) will take over a Club in vastly better shape. 'S(/'e have a small financial margin to work with, we'll have a new front office and bill-of-sales computer

here or there by taking one thing off the menu, or raising the prices for a Club lunch. Unfortunately, we may have squeezed the margins on the savings and streamlining, and will now be forced to make real choices

- like, how to make the often-unused downstairs area more of a revenueearner, how to maximise our available space, how to make this magazine self-sustaining, orwhetherwe stillwant

to offer the level of

services we currently provide. Diane and Mike will need all of your ideas, help and suppolt over the next year to make these painful choices that will very much alter the nature of our Club. 'ùØe're in good shape now. But hard decisions are ahead. Membership has kept'pace with departures. But we need a whole lot more. Fortunately,

wipe out our precarious profit margin.

Also, as much as we'd like to assume a successful membership drive that

we have a new board already

bolsters our ranks, we cannot, for

position being contested) which

accounting purposes, count on a growing number of new members payingthe monthly fees, 'SØe have to

guarantees continuity with some fresh blood and fresh ideas.

To borrow a phrase from another

look at a way to reduce operating costs - and that will likely require a large decision that could change one or several of the serwices we are now able to provide.

Let's be straight - we can't nickel and dime our way out of the long-term financial problem, saving a few dollars

outgoing president, Fidel Ramos of the Philippines, "The best is yet to come!"

costly renovation work is

complete.

to increase the

monthly subscription fees to their current level, pulling us back from the

brink of insolvency.

One other item of note: olrr healthier capital account has allowed

us to rnake one long-overdue purchase that will make Club

operations smoother and lesult in even more savings ovel the years.

After years of debate and hesitation, we've finally upgraded oLÌr compLtter system for the front office, This will allow us more flexibility and creativity

in our accounting and billing procedures, will let us stt'eamline some of the old ways of getting bills to you, and will eventually lead to a mole sophisticated "stnart card" type of system for you to use around the bar, whichwill bringus rnore into the

We all know about

press junkets, now the FCC brings you your very owfr itlnket...

Junk actually. All 45 leet of it, hot and cold running water, crew and all bells and whistles available for hire to members. For a three-month trial period the FCC has acquired joint rights to use the

EAC company junk, which can be booked on weekdays or evenings for $500 or daytime at weekends for $1000 - a small fraction of commercial rates for a first class vessel.Club catering services are also available. Please contact the office tel. 2521

rn

position to take over (with only one

15 1 1

or fax. 2868 4092.

April 1998 THD GoRRxSPol{DElIl

watched 16 years of l-ris life burn away. Unlike some of the q,ealthier Cliinese fan'iilies in tou'n, this man czrn't leave beczruse he has clebts to pay. For weeks, rulnolrrs harre been swirling in the open markets of another liot.

In the centre of tou,.n the closed stores are boarded up with yel1ow painted woocl. About 100 Chinese families lan businesses here before rising plices sparked the slow simmel of resentment against the ethnic gl'oLlp most apparentl¡' linked with mercantile slrccess. The food markets were consistent targets, like the one on the corner u'here Muslim residents used to clo business alongside their Chinese neighbouls. Agoosh says he sort of misses his affluentneighbours, not least becanse his soda and snack

to attract clÌstomel's coming fi'om the Chinese stole with stand used

small change at the ready. "The rioting -well, outsiders came in from Sulabaya, other places like that. They

came

in and

spread bad ntmours

about the Chinese. " Did anyone fi'on Parnanr-rncan get involved? "\Øe11," said Agoosh aftet a long pause, "the outsiclers carne ancl we here just got

s sè

totut't, 150 lem eas[ o.f Jal<arta, sit in riots. Tbe outer of tbe store has of their"family's closed sbop after anti-Cbinese front Luri.tten "Islam Aku" - we are Muslinl. - ott tbe boarded-up building

Ittbabitants of Pamanurtcan, a small coastal

the lesidence of another

window a small sign penned in unsure Arabic reads "The only God is Allah, and Mohammed is his messenger". A

prayet rug lies awkwardly folded underneath. The young brothers

jeweilery store has been destroyed,

far side ofJalan H. Kertadibr:ata stands

what's left of the old place - just two fragmented walls and rubble.

ofvagueness on questions about the leadership. Did you believe Suharto

carriecl away.

"

A young boy weaving thror-rgh

ñ I he streel rtrns [hrough the centre I of Pamanuncan, and thror.rgh

back alleys on

l-ris

bicycle leads

r-rs

to

won't leveal even their last namés.

They answer questions in Indonesian, although the occasional

the lives of a Chinese family who watched their neighbours turn against them in December. On the

As cirzil Lrnrest in Indonesia sirrrrrrers, tl-re rìation's etl-rnic Cl-rinese t>reatl-re a collectirze sigkl of relief. I-isa Vzeanrer e><arrrines their pligl-rt

'"go ahead; you tell them," "no, yon tell them," can be heard in hushed Cantonese. The more confident of the pair says he had just rettuned home from Jakarla to be with his younger brother, The family's and the brothers take no comfolt from the fact that since the rioting ar-mecl police have regularly patrolled the town's main streets. "They're not here to protect us, " explains the older brother, sweating in the noon sLrn. The brothers visibly flinch the moment they hear "Suhalto" in the next question. They shift geals, reflecting a broad Indonesian habit

Sold.iers on aleft for st

Caught in the crossfire

Chínese

family, where two brothels can barely be coaxed oLrt onto the porch. In one

when he recently said in his acceplance speech that people

Two Muslim workers lay new bricks slowly in the sun. This will be storage for the new store, where a man who won't give his name helps hired workers paint the walls where the new store will stand. A nameless friend of the family, aiso Chinese,

should stop looking for scapegoats in this economic crisis? "Of, course, he's our leader. \Øe're all part of one

nation,

holds a bucket and brushes.

Yesterday, from France, from Chinese - the reporters come here, I no say anything." The pale, tense man will only speak to our translator.

come fi'om memolies of the night he

mean one multination. I

we live with one Ìeader. Of coulse theywill take care of us." Doyou feel the Chinese have a plecarious status here?This was met onlywith neruous laughter. "There may be more riots,"

Confronted with a microphone, she tries to shrink away even as her eyes reveal she'Il be the one to speak. "I not say anything, no - no comment.

He still suffers the headaches that

I

mean the Chinese and all the others,

r lweg6tu6tti SulectnToþutri a chrring a recent rally meeting ctt ber botne íl't Jntkctúa Roy, Stapletott J.

he answered.

On the road further out of town in tlre lesidential area, the layers of culture and money take on a more dlstinct edge. People have their hair

cut in modest alleys, side by side April 1998 THE

CORRf,SP0IIDEIIT

-T

with satellite dishes. The

Chinese

homes are taller and newer, well appointed. The comfortable Musiim

- instead reserved for small

homes are less ostentatious

the flash is

mosques dotting the countryside in odd colours. "The Only God is Allah"

is cut from mirrored glass which reflects a pearlescent sky, Out at a rice co-operative 10 minutes drive from Pamanuncan the riots seem furthel from peoples' memories than in town. But Husseini, the co-op managen, offers his views whiie he watches the workers shovel sun dried rice into large bags. "The Chinese people are also Indonesian, there's no need to be hostile to them.'$Øe are all human beings."

It's an aitruistic sentiment shared by many in a country where

at the same time others are often unguarded - to the right ears - about howthey truly feel. A ethnic Chinese

pharmacist who sells traditional medicine inJakarta won't go on the record because there are lots of "agents" around, but he will tell a reporter bluntly that the Muslims are Iazy and have to be taught how to work. An educated 2S-year-old former journalist who aspires to world culture by wearing baggy jeans and a baseball cap on backwards says bluntly in the back of a faxi, "Kill the motherf*****s off. They own everything."

Back in Jakarta the rhythms of survival in the big city supersede divisions, or at least among the "little

people", which is how manY refer to themselves. Every day at noon near

the stock exchange white collar workers tuck their ties into their shilts, wash their hands and feet and enter tiny prayer rooms, side by side with

A 28-year-old salesman leaving a mosque after prayer maintains the

people have a responsibility to remain united in facing the crisis.

Indeed this unity can exist, he says, even in the face of accusations that

hallways. There is a story in the industrial town of Tangerang, where factories sit idle because they can't afford imported parts and where workers linger outside gates

crisis, the lack of any leal "story" in the capital was tlatched by the frustrations

The buses and taxis were still lunning, the streets were still jammed at rush hours, even the shopping centers still seemed crowded - with many stores packed with bargainhunters taking advz'ntage of the cheap prices brought on by the

of trying to follow the rapidly-moving

dlamatic plunge of the local currency,

inJakarta's main hospital, where the

confined to the campr-rses, following a strict government edict.

For reporters trying to cover the

subtleties and complexities of Indonesia's economic and political

security guards and ianitors. Most have to rush back to their offices or to lunch,

in some places, like Lomboc, security forces essentially refereed controlled

a

riots against the Chinese in order to

selies of violent anti-Chinese

economic problem- Suharto. "I don't pay much attention to the scapegoat

outbreaks in the far-flung towns and provinces. Beginning eadierthis year, as the economy went into a tailsPin, Indonesia was experiencing near daily

and can't be bothered with

conversation. But one man takes his time putting his shoes and socks back on, and is amused by the sight of a reporter hanging around outside the men's' prayer roomwith a microphone.

Arris,

J 1,

is a

security guard atabakery

.

His wife and three younger brothers are depending on his income, which is fast losing its value.

President Suharto earlier that day had asked his country to unite in the task of equaliy sharing the burden of the economic crisis. Did he think that could happen in a country where the

little people are so much

more vulnerable than the wealthy? "If you look in Jakafi.a, everyone seems huppy," says Arris. "Every little slum is being taken care of, the officials come to pass out free food." He went on to explain most of his family lives in a small vill age in cenrralJava, where finding basic goods is not easy and no one is giving anything awaY. "Yes, this crisis is affecting my family. But if

things get really bad and I loose mY job in Jakarta I'll just go back home and become a farmer again. I don't care who rules - Suharto or anyone else - so long as they are honest and can help the people of Indonesia."

divert attention frorn the main issue - but a crisis is a crisis. 'll'e shouldn't let it escalate to the point thatwe hurt each other. \Øe shouldn't treat each other based on what has happened recently to the economy, because as a nation if we blame others, in the end we will only hurt ourselves."

How mole riots are averted - if they are - will likely depend not on Indonesia's thinly spread security forces but instead on how prices are controlled,

flare-ups across Java and Sttmatla,

but as far away as Bali in the East.

pianning coverage was that the riots,

usually over by the time the cameras

Suharto, now re-

of international finance. But at what

colrntry of several thousand scattered

the rage to the one man very few Indonesians will criticise in public - the manwho, and ironicallywith the help

corlespondent of the Zos Angeles Tin'tes, tells of combing central s Java looking for J? unrest, when she and Indonesian

based

in.lakana.

@

President

appointed until 2003, has said he

arrived.

point will the fiscal free fall stop playing itself out in the form of long-standing r acial and economic tension among the Indonesian population and instead shift

r

or simply too expensive to

and sporadic,

a

ø fre e I a n c e reQ o rte

pians to stand before the nation's

assembly in five years wíth ^ pfogress fepoft on his term. His new

islands?

cabinet, initially

Club member

feared by the markets, is in

Maggy Farley,

reporter/fixer

Dini Jalai decicled to stop for lunch.

place and has re-

negotíated the terms of a bailout deal with the IMF.

And the politicai stringerforTl'te $üashington Post and Dermot Tatlow, FCC member ancl pbotojountalist, dance the nigbt cuuø! at tbe Tanamur Disco

'ùØhen they finished, they discoveled

that during their lunch break, a riot

'The Month of

Living Comfortably'

'Tn.u I oi

went looking for The Year r-iuing Dangeiously. But ior

the scores of reporters, photographers

andcamera crews that descended on Jakafia in March, it turned out to be

Club President I(eittr Rictrburg skra-res thre frustrations of corzering tkre rer.oh-rtion tll.at failed to rnaterialise

had occurred just a few miles away and of colÌrse they had missed it.

-

The other problem, of cottrse, is

that Indonesia's crisis is primalily econornic, and, as has proven the case around SoutheastAsia since last

more like The Month Of Living

sumrrer, coveling an econotnic

Comfortably.

meltdown

The expected "People Power" revolution never materialised. Thele was no middle class revolt, few open signs of the regime unravelling. Even the students, the forefront of political dissent, remained remarkably calm during President Suharto's scripted re-anointment; most protests were

complain that their badly-needed medicines are no longer avallable afford.

happens in

Lis a We auer is

director described how doctors are having to use old milk bottles to hold blood, and how surgeons are switching to cheaper cat gut instead of thread for suturing. Or in the sidestreet pharmacies, where Patients

were often short

Suharto may concede to the communily

a

continue to be paid. The¡e is a story

though violent,

How do you find a riot before it

a nation of 200 million people like family busíness.

orchestrated was the process beforehand. The only possible element of suspense, Suharto's choice of a vice-president, was

The problem in

and how prominently those price controls figure in whatever reforms

of the ethnic Chinese communily, tuns

the lupiah.

Even the presidential selection itself was without drama, so calefully

wondering how long they will

is often more

difficult than

reporting on political ttnrest or violence in the streets. More than one reporter remarked to me, upon

defused weeks earlier when all the major societal factions, including the powerful almed forces, orAbri, threw

their support behind the only candidate for the job, Suharto's

longtime friend B.J. Habibie.

Thus, many reporters covering Indonesia were reduced to waiting outside hotei rooms and meeting rooms for snippets of comments from fast-moving International Monetary Fund officials, or from Steve Hanke, the American academic who was

landing in Jakarta in FebruarY or March, how strangely normal the

advising Suharto on plans for a "currency board" to stabilise the

capital city looked, despite all of our dispatches depicting a country on the economic and political precipice.

rupiah.

There is, of course, a story

"opposition," which seemed briefly to have

found its voice, back into slipped again has once obscurity. The expected "PeoPle Power" revolt in Indonesia never materialised, and the consensus thinking now is that if change does come, it will be a change from within the system, not forced by pressttres from the outside.

Indonesia is now looking at the end of the Suharto era - his age and mortality will see to that. That the countrywill change is inevitable. But after the events of March, many Indonesians - and the joulnalists who cover the country - are resigned to the reality that change may come Iater rather than sooner.

@

beyond the meeting rooms and hotel April 1998 IHE

CORRxSPOlIIlEtrT

THE FCC BOOK 1997 . EYEWITNESS ON ASIA . UP TO 1997 AND BEYOND . 248 PAGES .614 IMAGES . A COLLECTORS' ITEM

-¡l

.CHRIS PATTEN BEARWITNESSTOTHE INTEGRITYOFPROMISES FOREWORD.BARRYGRINDROD FROM CHUNGKINGTOHONG KONG FORD REPRESENTING A PBOFESSION, A CAPSULE HISTORYOFTHE FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS'CLUB.ALBERTRAVENHOLT/ASHLEY NOT A MOB THE LAST SURVIVOR OFTHE FCC FOUNDERS RECOUNTS THE CLUB S EARLY YEARS. KEVIN SINCLAIR EDDIE TSENG: ONE oF THE FTBST TELEGRAMS FRoM THE FRoNT LtNE. DEREK DAVrs MEMoRTES oF JoHN le caRRÉ THE Fcc AND THE HoNoURABLE SCHOOLBOY. SAUL LOCKHART THE FCC'S FINEST HOUR RESCUING A VIETNAMESE JOURNALIST FROM HONG KONG'S REFUGEE CAI\,1PS. WALTER LOGAN MY EVENING WITH ZHOU ENLAI MAO TAI WITH THE REVOLUTIONARIES. AL KAFF PING-PONG DIPLOMACY WHEN CHINA OPENED ITS DOORS.JAMES IMILES WHERE WEWERE WRONG COVERING TIANANMEN SQUARE. KEITH B. RICHBURG EMBRACING FOREIGN BABES CHINAWARY OFCROSS.CULTURALDATING, BUT DELIGHTS IN TVSHOW. PETER SEIDTITZNO FUTURE, BUT QUITE HAPPY CHINA FEPORTING. KARÍN MALMSTROM FORKED LOGIC, TWISTED TONGUE ESSENTIAL JOURNO-SPEAK FOF GREATER CHINA HACKS . KARL WILSON JUNK BAY THE KUOMINTANG WERE HERE. PHILIP BOWRING TIMES OF TRANSITION FACING A RED-CHIP FUTURE . AFTHUR HACKER TAKING POSSESSION OF POSSESSION STREET THE CHALTENGE TO FIND POLIÏICALLY CORRECT STREET-NAMES . HANS VRIENS A TALE OF TWO HONGS HONG KONG'S FIRST OPIUIV-TRADERS ARE HOSTAGES TO THE FUTUREAND PRISONERSOFTHE PAST.STEPHENVINESJOUHNALISM IN HONG KONG COLONIALPRESS FREEDOMSTHOUGH LIMITED WILLBE LOST. EMILY LAU 1997.AQUESTION OF HONOUR HOW BRITAIN IS CHEATING HONG KONG.VAUDINE ENGLAND HONG KONG'S GANG OF FOUB WOMEN IN THE COLONY'S POLITCS.ANDREA KOPPELHONG KONG JOUBNALISTSAFTEB'9T INTEBVIEWWITH LU PING, DIRECTOR OF HONG KONG AND MACAU AFFAIRS OFFICE. MARTIN C.M. LEE SELF-CENSOBSHIP IS THE SILENT ENEMY AND ANOTHER WORD FOR FEAR. CLARE HOLLINGWORTH FRONT LINE MY BAPTISI\¡ OF FIRE: OUTBREAK OF WORLD WAR II . ANTHONY LAWRENCE FBOM OUR OWN COREBSPONDENT THE LONELINESS OF A LONG DISTANCE RADIO REPORTER . PETER ARNETT ENROUTE TO ASIA HOW I WALKED INTO JOURNALISM . TIZIANO TERZANI A DEAFENING SILENCE SAIGON'S LAST DAY . JON SWAIN RIVER OF TIME CAI\¡BODIAN DREAMS AND NIGHTIV]ARES.JONATHAN SHARP DOTS, DASHESANDTHE DAWN DIP SOMEOFTHE MODESAND WOES OF COMMUNICATIONS IN THE PRE-COTV]PUTER AGE. SANDRA BURTON WATCHING MARCOS FALL THE GRAVITY OF HISTOBY'RODNEY TASKER BR¡NGING DOWN A DICTATOBSHIPWATCHINGfHE GENERALS.TONYCLIFTON TODAY'S YOUNG JOURNALISTABE SO DAÍVIN SERIOUSTHE LEGACY OFWOODWARD AND BERNSTEIN. PETER CHARLESWOBTH IN SEABCH OFTHE BIG PICTURE BEWARE OF PHOTO EDITORS WITH VISIONS. ERICH FOLLATH NOW IT IS OUB TUBN INTERVIEW WITH IVALAYSIA'S PRIIVE MINISTER MAHATHIR MOHAMAD . PHILIP BOWBING PBESS FREEDOM PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS. RICHABD HORNIK THE LIMITS OF CONFUCIANISM WHAT ARE THESE ASIAN VALUES? . STUABI WOLFENDALE ASIA'S THBIVING MONARCHICAL BUSINESS WHERE FAITH IS MOBE THAN

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Marines take couer as tbe ammunition dump at Khe Sanb is sbelled by Nortb Vietnamese artillery; Lee Webber (inset) standing on tbe Quang Tri air strip JO years larer US

Return to Khe Sanh Tlre bloody siege 30 yea-rs ago q/as a tLrrning point in tkre Vietnam \Çzar.

Forrrrer corrrt>atant I-ee V¡ebber returned to tkre scene IrecalloullanclinginDaNang, OnJanuary 19,7968ourplatoon Jtisaltsofarbehindme,butthe I vivid mernories make it seem like looking at the countryside as we was selected to move to the Khe Sanh only yesterday, For many years I've descended, wondering where the combatbaseinanefforttoreinforcethe talked with people about my enemy was - not knowing the leal recon unit there. Unknowingly, we experiences duling my time in question was: 'W'ho was the enemy? were moving from the frying pan into Vietnam.

Astheplanedooropened,thehot the fire. \Øe were to become centreSome of those experiences were muggy air of Vietnam filled the cabin field players in U.S. military history. full of joy, while many others were with an unforgettable pungent scent OnJantary2l,thebasecameunder filled with pain. that was to be part of my life as a siege. As the first rounds landed we Now on the 30th anniversary of United States Navy medic for the next sclambled into the makeshift trenches the siege at Khe Sanh the time had 12 months. that we had been digging so halfcome for me to return and face the During that first night I met a US heartedly. \Øe huddled together and people and the land with whom I did Marine who was heading home and crouched as low as pogsible ìn the battle so many years ago - the people who fought so tenaciously for their homeland, and, the land, which I made

my personal responsibility.

I have come back to Vietnam to face the ghosts of my past. Those same

ghosts that have corne together, with the balance of my life experience, to form the man I am today.

asked him for advice because he obviously survived his tour. He told me to volunteer for reconnaissance

shallow trenches we had dug. In the days that foliowed, I rummaged through whatwas left of ourbattalionaid station

duty. I did and was sent to Phu Bai and attached to Delta Company, 3rd ReCon Battalion, 3rd Marine Division. At Phu

trying to salvage medicine and supplies.

I could see planes bringing in what I thought were reinforcements. Instead,

Bai we ran eight-man patrols from Septembel to December 1967, then

down the street came people with

we were moved north to Quang Tri.

pictures, video and asking the proverbial

cameras and tape recorders shooting

April 1998 TIX G0RRf,SPONllllfI

stupid question, "How're you doing?"

I

recall looking at one leporter and telling him something like "'!7e need guns and they send us yor.r guys with cameras."

As the days wore on theyblew our

ammunition dump - we battled the nightly procession of rats as they searched for food and safe haven from

the battle. The North Vietnamese cut off our only water supply creating the need to air drop water. Near the end of the siege I was evacuated to Da Nang hospital for an appendectomy and on to the USS Sanctuary. \Øhen I relurned to myunit, the siege had ended andwe were located at Dong Ha. In 1968, I was stationed at the U.S. Naval Hospital in Guam. I had found rny new home and have lived on Guam

evef

Minh mausoleum.'ùØhile I didn't tour the mausoleum, I found the endless line of thousands of pilgrims from the countryside an odd curiosity as they stood quietly, without hats, and hands dangling at theil sides. Foreign visitors were lined up, given strict condttct instructions, and lead to the front the of the line ahead of the Vietnamese who had been waiting so patiently.

Later that morning we moved on to Da Nang. My landing in Da Nang reminded me of my arrival more than 30 years before. The door to the plane opened and the muggy air filled the cabin. They only thing missing was

The group of more than 50 departed from New York, Los Angeles, Singapore and Guam meeting in Hong Kong for the final afternoon, treated to dinner with

size and mine. The dedication ceremony was

av

ery appropriate way

to begin my return given the

circumstances that existed when I left

the country in 1968.

The next daywe went to the Ho Chi Tf,E CORRXSP0I|DENT April 1998

attention and sang the Marine Corps Hymn for her. She stood plor.rdly at lhe front of the restaurant. As I looked

around the room I wondered what thoughts were passing through the minds of the Vietnamese staff who

the smell of jetfuel. \Øe boardedbuses

rneal in the city that consisted of C rations ancl tepid water. The next morning we visited the Cathedral where w'e met Father Joseph Phuc, who was also at the church tn7967. At

The next day we headed for the

Vinh Moc tunnel cornplex.

These

tunnels were constructed in 1.965-66

by the people of Vinh Linh village.

They conslst of 68 kilornetres of tunnels that go down three levels, the deepest of which is 23 metres below the surface. There are 13 entrances (seven facing the ocean and six facing the hills). They contain

living facilities including a birthing room where 17 children were born.

The following daywe visited the old Dong Ha combat base that is now a residential area containing only one of the original buildings.

This appears to be an old theatre

approximate our old location. Again, the pulging of anyAmelican remnant of the war was very obvions.

be described as a disjointed coffee plantation.

Earlier, Khe Sanh resiclents tried to find locations of an old base based

'ùØe arrivecl in Hue around 5 p.m. to a beautiful sunset dinner on the Perfr-rme River - a far cry fiom my last

site.

following the end of the siege, has

fishing village. The countryside has not changed as people contintte to live off the land on an almost day-to

of the people.

the fact that "the ImpelialistArnerican

forces and their Saigon puppet

that, while horribly run down and dirty, is still in use today for videos and laundry.

Then it was on to Quang Tli airstrip. 'üØe couldn't find the base where I lived. I was able to

br-rlldozed by the Americans

day basis. The most obviotts changes

monlrments noting the location and

combat base that was once oLlr home. Bernie and I found what we believed to be the location of our old bunker, Charlie Med and the ammo dump. The base,

and headed to Rolrte 1 for the trip to Hue. Along the waywe made stops at Red Beach, lHaiBan Pass and Lan Co

were the sporadic cellular phones, endless karaoke bars and the more colourful, slightly western-style dress

rnost of o1d base locations, there were

regime" had been defeated at this wewere

the afternoon wandering the

leg of our journey to Hanoi. \ùØe arrived in Hanoi late in the

curious comparisons between their

was as sulprised to find us thele as we were to find her. \Øe all rose, stood at

told him to stop as he rolled his foot for-wards and backwards - we all cringed in hopes it would not explode. Had it exploded, it would have been a horrible way to end oLrrtolÌr and possiblythe life of this young calneraman, After lunch we morred on to Khe Sanh urhere we were spent

our plans to make our relurn on the 30th anniversary.

good feeling to be around the children

volunteer who worked in Da Nang lromMarch 1966to October 1967. She

'ùØe

of Arlington, Virginia, and began

listening to their singing, laughter and paying attention to their endless

One obvious thing during the entire toLlr was the fi'iendliness of the Vietnamese people. It was a good feeling lo come back to snch a warm welcome given the circumstances under which we 1eft.

At each base location, roads had been changed ancl most American strlìctures had been destroyed. At

littered with old munitions and ror-rnds. One of the cameramen following us stepped on a mortar.

Two years ago fellow team member Ken "Bernie" Burnett and I decided we were going back. 'ùØe found Military Historical Tours out

children's school.

The school, which was paid for through Gannett Foundation grants, was built for pre-schooiers. It was a

Hymns ancl Taps played.

in Lang Vei where we spent hor.rrs walking through what was left of the base that had been overrun by the NVA in 1968. The afea was

qlradrennial reunions of our Marine unit there were always discussions with like-minded comrades.

dedication of the Hong Phong

while men wept. You could almost hear our tears hitting the cold tile floor.

At h-rnch that day, we accidentally meetJudith Hansen, a former Red Cross

A couple of days later',

Returning to Vietnam was always a desire of mine. At the

the Marine Security detachment of the US Embassy. It was a good evening of laughter photos and fun. On day two, as the group moved through Hanoi, I went to Ninh Binh province for the

grouncl. There was not a dry eye while the Marine Corps and Navy

were watching.

s1nce.

those who fought on this hallowed

¡he time, he hacl brought his childlen's choir to pelform for the troops. As he led us in prayer, the room fell silent

since been turned into what can best

on the photos we had. The most prominent localion was Hill 1015 directly across the valleyfrom our o1d bunker site. As the clouds and rnist rolled away in late afternoonwewere

able to see the mountain and

strrrotrnding hills - the same view we had while under siege 30 years ago. '!Øe brought a large wreath and conducted

a

ceremony

as

General Carl

Mundy spoke of valor-rr, heroism and the bond of brotherhood shared by

At Phu Bai we found the old air control tower and building slightly renovated but essentially intact. It is one of the few American structures still standing. \X/hile in Da Nang I visited the Ho Chi Minh war mlrseum conl-aining historical items from 1925 until the American occlÌpation. There was a photo showing pieces of B-52s noting that "this was the 4,000th B-52 shot down" since the beginning of the war. Othels noted the nr-rmber of Americans killed with the particular weapon on display.

Clockuise frotn top, tbe reunion of former ueterans at Kbe Sanb; Bernie Burnett ttying to locate tbe site of tbeir bunker fr"om .old pbotos in Life uitb

from a Khe Sanb resident; part of tbe Vinb ilIoc tunnel complex; a. liue grertacle that farmers su.rrounded uitb rocles ancl continued to plltnt around.; Webber and Burnett pose at [he tunnel entralxce; '\X/ebber, rigbt, uíth comrad.es belp

in

196B.

Photos by Lee Vebber April 1998 THD

GORRf,SPONI!ËNT

-T

'$øe spent

an afternoon at the new China Beach resort and Marble mountain areas, much different than I remember. It is ironic how pictures in ourminds canaffectour lives and the lives of those around us. This trip back to Vietnam was filled with those pictures, memories of smells, tastes and sounds of the past.

Change was extremely obvious everywhere we looked. I believe

Fallen comrades

in

W/r.'"" it ooened a few months W ugo, thË elegant new Hanoi

our

Press Club made a serious attempt to

minds where we hide the pain of the past. \X/hen memory was reconciled with today's reality, there seemed to be a release of these ghosts. They were replaced by tourists, new roads, different buildings and scenes of rice fields and playing children.

SØhile some of this was a relief, there also was a sense of loss.

play a more serious role in the

journalistic heart of Vietnam.

Management of the stunning premises proposed a monthly

It was good to

see Vietnam slowly growing and improving. In spite of the damage inflicted upon the people

and the Iand by that horrible war, nature had saw fit to replace the destruction with a new coat of paint.

The people were friendly, spoke of growth and peace, and how important bothwere to them. However, beneath

the surface memories of the war lingered. At the museums, displays recounted the atrocities inflicted upon the people by the Americans and the puppet Saigon government. These museums were always filledwith guides

, you entered the dining room tonight, you may have noticed

[ -,,(.

a

\ "ingle table set in a place of honour, It is a table set for each armed services.

member of our Allow me to explain. Military tradition

filled with pride, customs and symbolism. This table is our way of symbolising the fact that members of our profession of arms are missing from our midst. They are often called PO\Øs/MIA and KIAs. You remember them as your buddies. \X/e call them fallen comrades.

.

is

The table setting is small, symbolising the frailty of a prisoner alone

against his oppressors.

.

The table cloth is black, symbolising the uncefiainty of our comrades'

farc.

. The place setting is white, this symbolises the purity of our comrades' intentions to respond to his country's call to arms.

getwhen these tour groups would pass by, knowing that we were Americans who had fought in this war.

. The single rose you

mixed

emotions having made this journey with other warriors. Laughing, crying and sharing our lives together as we did so many years ago. It was a very moving experience but on e that can ied with it a much different maybe older and wiser view of the land and the people. I am walking away with a better, kinderview of this country and her people.

Iee Webber

is

publisber ofPaclfic

Daily News, based in Agana, Guam.

I@

TSE CORRDSPOilDEIIT April 1998

see displayed reminds us of the families and the loved ones of our comrades in-arms. Those who kept the faith, awaiting for their

retufn.

. The red ribbon tied so prominently on the vase is reminiscent of the red ribbon worn upon the lapel and breasts of thousands and their unyielding determination to demand a proper accounting of our missing.

.

The slice of lemon on the bread piace is to remind us of their bitter fate.

. There

is salt upon the plate, symbolic of the families' tears as they wait.

.

The glass is inverted, they cannot toast with us tonight.

.

The chairs are empty, they cannot be with us tonight.

@

draught Tiger beer and French wines by the glass.

"It's a club without the restrictions and a hotel without rooms," explains

Trenga. It's an extraordinary

luncheon behind closed doors where foreign repofiers based in the capitai

undertaking bemveen a pair ofFrench businessmen and the Association of Vietnamese Journalists. Opened last November, it aims to link media with

and Vietnamese journalists could swap notes, have a decent glass of wine and chat. In its usual car-ttious mannerwhen

businessvia food, drink and relaxation.

It has a full business centre.with cubicles and offices to rent (starting at

dealing with any initiative not

of its own making,

the

cumbersome Hanoi official media cadres hurriedly made

it plain they were not interested. Naturally, Old Hanoi Hands say; whywould they endorse anything they could not control?

Despite this, the new Press Club is a success, and

taking children and tourists around explaining the war crimes. It was interesting to see the looks we would

I am now home with

LanKwaiFong Tkre Vietnarrrese ca-pital noq¡ hras its oszn Press Ch;b. rüúthrile n<)t a recil>rocal club in tkre trr-re sense, I(erzin Sinclair fínds son-re a"ffinity

many q/ere expecting to see things as they were when they had left Vietnam.

There were looks of loss on many faces as the endless searches were

conducted for those places

Hanoi's link with

The food and entertainment package - oú a cashbasis - is equal to anyfive-star Hanoi hotel and the club atmosphere attracts the livelierforeign business communityinthe city; it's the place to make contacts.

Management hopes the package

of communications and leisure attractions will make The Press Club

' the centre of media activities inHanoi, despite the low-key attitude of the official journalistic watchdogs. A large conference room is kitted out for press briefings.

At night, there's

a

sophisticated atmosphere; the French heritage is alive andvibrant. A six-man group made up of students from the Hanoi Conseryatory play up-

market jazz. Itlstruments include a keyboard, g:uitar, bongo drums and a violin and the music - without electronic amplilication - is terrific. So is the wine list which Trenga aims to make

not only for the media. Set in stunning premises in the heart of Hanoi, in a side street next to the Sofitel the mostimpressive in Hanoi.

Metropole Hotel and a block You can get a decent away lrom the landmark Former Hong Kong Regct.l resta.ura.nt mana.ger, Ia.urent Australian red or a Chilean Opera House, it is a triumph Trenga, nout food ønd beuerage rnanoger of Tbe Press Club white for US$25 which is of design. Itextends awarm Hønoi, and general manager Riaz Mahmood, claims tbe best positively generous by the welcome to FCC members usual cripplingwine charges although it is not strictly a wine list in Hanoi øt tbeirfasbionable premßes in Hanoi hotels.

US$10 an hour for a working space or reciprocal club.

There's no restriction on who eats the same for an eight-person meeting There's a lamlliar face in the bar, gives to e-mail, drinks at The Press Club, but any room) and access or the food and lounge and restaurant; who is in Hanoi merely FCC member telephones, service andafree is Laurent Trenga managet message beverage local courier service anywhere within needs to ask for Laurent Trenga atthe who used to run Papillon restaurant 20 kilomètres of the heart of the ciry. bar to getintroductions to anyone they offLan Kwai Fong.

It will do visitors' business cards need to find in the foreign business In a self-contained seven-storey building, the Press Club is a self on the spot and provides a full range community. of conference and business meeting Address: 591',Ly That To, Hanoi. contained culinary empire. There's a facilities. For US$100 a month, the TeI (84-4) 934-0888 pastry shop and delicatessen on the journalists Club provides in Fax(84-4) 934-0899 room and Press ground floor, a fine dining with mailing and email: Press-Club@netnam. org.vn third, Hanoi an office terrace on the casual outdoor faxaddress. along with a friendly bar featuring I@ April 1998 TEX GORRxSPOlmEilT

I I

On the wall Photographs by Edward Stokes Across tbe Island, abookon the countryside of Hong Kong Island, will be launched at Pacific Place by MTR Corporation on

I

Clockuise front top left. Tbe h"ack.from Vic¡let Hill tct Pat"leuiew,'Wong Nai Chrmg Gap; Beþre claul., lookitlg front. Mount Parker to Tung lutlg Cbau Abercleen. Uþper Reseruoir, ølm.ost full during stnnmer;Shele () seett at cltLsle,

May 7 - in conjunction with a conseryation photography exhibition, running from then until May 5.

The project was sponsored by the MTR Corporation, in association with the Hong Kong Conselation Photography Foundation, which was established last year.

Across tbe Island, first released as a corporate edition, will be republished by the Foundation for general release later in

I

Hill,

-l]n. photographs in this exhibition come from L tsland, by FCC member Edward Stokes.

Across tbe

enueloped in natnral "blue light"; Winter sedges on Vír¡let aboue Reþtlse Bay;A t'uggecl headland jtLst nortb of Cape D'AgrLilar; The waterjhll alot'tg Harlech Roa¿L, belotu Victoria Peak

the year.

Prints by: ColorSix Latroratories Ltd. TEE C0RRESPONIIEI|T

April

1998

Apr.il 1998 THE C0RRXSPONI¡INI

T_

This isn't a recession a lot of losers arnid tl-re regional econolTric turrnoil. lflrere ^re IJnlike previous douzrrtrlrÍLs, krou.errer, I)avid O'[Lear can't see an¡r uzinn-ers in this one avid Copperfield couldn't have

done it better. Never mind vanishing elephants and walking through the Great \X¡a11. The greatest magic act- of all is the Disappearing Asian Miracle. Not even Harry Houdini could match this one! Hundreds of billions of dollars and years of work gone, just like that.

A.year ago, South Korea ,Thatland and Malaysia were among the fastest growing economies on earth. Korea andThatlandeach grew an average of more than 8o/o ayear in the two de

c

respectable

7o/o

a

a year.

Then, the Grinch stole Christmas, andaII the toys the Little Dragons had accumulated for so long. As a result, the

pre-dawn uiew front Mount Kellett Mount Cameron; Deep Water Bay at'r.d its islands, seen from Blacle's link; Paþerbark trees beside a Tai Taru strea.m; Uncbangit'rg bills and tbe euer-cbanging city skyline; Maturing wood.land a.long o. Mount Parker patb

THE CORRf,SP0ilDEI{I April 1998

effort, gone. And forget those purchasing power parity (PPP) calculations (which mostly said the

currencies that collapsed were undervalued last year!). I've never met

the same conditions will apply, and

thát the .major tasks ahead

are

rebuilding what was destroyed or dislocated. NØhat they cannot see is that the world changed. Many

1 9 9 6 ; Malay sra nearly pa for a decade and even

Indonesia was pushing

Clockwise fi"om top left: A

for the largest number of people at any time in human history. In 18 months of exchange rate down-sizing, Thailand's GDP per capita will fall back to 7994 levels, Korea to 1997 andlndonesia to 1989, Between four and nine years of

Europe, and people still understand profits and losses (especially losses!).

So, pity the poor sod who's trying to rebuildhis business. It's like picking up the pieces after a war: where to start? That's what many business people in Asia are Tacing today. like an army preparing to win the last war, rather than the next, they assume that

of the fu ndamental assumptions

ades to

8.50/o

ro

high growth rates. In fact, it was the fastest increase in standards of living

-

about how the system works don't hold up any longer.

In depth and bleadth, the Asian Currency Crisis is the single wolst event to affect East Asia since the Japanese \Øar.

Subsequent crises

-

oil shocks, - had

economies of Malaysia,

wars and revolutions

Thailand and South Korea will Iose more than one-third of their respective 1996 vaI¿es by the

winners, Iosers and bystanders.

lndongsia and Malaysia, for

example, earned a lot of money from higher oil prices; Hong end of this year. By December, Kong benefited from Vietnam Indonesia's economy will be aS \Øar soldiers' off-duty spending; less than half its previous size. ñ and many countries felt no real About US$ 100 billion worth s impact from the Chinese of national income vanished in s o Cultural Revolution.

I99J, and, by our estimates, an I This is different. There are additional US$290 bíllion will bøsic þerceptions of a financial crisß really cbønged? no winners, and few bystanders. disappear this year. And that It isn't a recession. The only phrase doesn't even include all those a salesman who would take a PPP that comes close to defining it is the dollars swapped for rupiah at 3,000, or dollar over a real one for anything. over-used management gurus' the baht at30 or the won at 1,000. All The gone.

Oh, they'll be back. favourite: " paradigm shift.'l So, next time we interview oK, it ìsn't the half trillion dollars infrastructure is still there (and it was pretty inadèquate for 8% growth rates; someone who used to be the ofvaluethatEastEurope andtheformer Soviet Union managed to very good time for a breather), and people chairman's fair-haired boy, let's have a efficiently subtract from their haven't forgotten how to read and little pity. write. Literacy in Asia is far ahead of Dauid O'Reør is regional economies in 1989-90, but nobody ever econoftt ist a,t tb e Economßt Infelligence thought much of them anyway. The other less developed regions, ancl the high value placed on education is very Little Dragons, however, were different Unit, and makes a þrettJ) good. liuing hard to instil. The work ethic doesn't - they were the world's best. telling people bow bad tbings are, And, OK, the "milacle" wasn't just have to be reinstalled. as in East @ April 1998 THE

CORRISPONIID¡{I

-[

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New Media Communications offers professional guidance to help businesses plan and implement Internet initiatives from strategy through execution. More importantly, we ensure your on-line marketing integrates with existing promotional activities and meets your corporate objectives.

Staffed by marketing, publishing and Internet experts, NMC does not build cookie-cutter solutions. Listening and learning about your business and turning this into tailored on-line campaigns is one of our greatest assets. And yours.

Think carefully. Think NMC.

IT PAYS TO

THINKAGAIN

The great Internet publishing free for an Ho.rlø an:e tracTitionzll print publisl-rers farir-rg in tl-re erzer¡rt1-ring-for-notl-ring q'orld of tl-re Interrret? l\Iigel Arrrrstrofrg files frorn c;zt>erspa.ce. ogically. rhe days oltlaclitionrl publishers rllowing totally lree access to their publications on the Internet are nr-rmbered, but there is no great rush to be first to tackle the issue and - without exception publishers are still sclatching their heads trying to find a business model

f I-r

that makes sense.

I offer the following sobering observation to the professional

Communications Ltd StLategic Marketing In

A Neu'

ELa

Tel: (852) 28381240 Fax: (852) 2838 5325 E-mail: kalunto@mail.com Web site: http://www.newmediacommunications.com

expect as a free service.

Unless what you'r'e offering is a "must-have" they plobably w.on't even give you the 30 seconcls or so il

provide infoimation to a \Øeb site, and 40 per cent have given fake inforn'iation.

The ma jol publishers are swimming in an online sea of red ink, with Th e lVall Street Journal so f ar the

only one that looks remotely like making a buck online, US tlade magazine Eclitor E Pub li s b e r recently gave LÌs a roundup. Knight-Riclder's

32 wel¡ sites have cost them US$27 million while

publishers amongLrs

generating only

on the subject of making money on the Internet: You may not be doing it al1

wrong, and

US$11

alÈl*l4lfrlo I h I

NlhqÞsl

fr

oDct

I

r

Fre

Asia Pacific

i.dile¡rtllLynch

won't go away, embrace

it

crrtrhcre

*ûsh&¡r, ::rÈ"1Ë¡''ó.E!i rnu ¡t9¡^i-:

or:

t/i

houm of

vklæ

at Tlibune Interactive), while Tbe New York Times

:l:'mï"'o'"''o"on'

between US$12 and

Viêw the 1eÅ!:!ûlylClstþ1 0f the SCI\,IP lntemet Editlon

US$15 million. Tirne \(/arner's Pathfinder

site - grouping

whole-

logether titles

sr,rch as

liofiune and Asiaueek - Iost ar least US$30 million in its First two years of operation, but justified the Time, Peoþle,

In the realworlcl,

have been thrown at start-up ventLues in the hope of cornerìng a market and br-rilding clÌstoûrer loyalty and blancl

Co

lost somewhere

Subscribô

heartedly. if you wanl anything that has value you have to pay fol that

expenses

last year (and heads l-rave begun to roll

lo the pr¡nt edil¡on of lhe Soulh China Morning Post orSundåy l\lorning Posl. Lore!

r:r'EI' Vísit our sister s¡le, Chsnnel Home and lêam more aboul home compuling in Chinese

?

oughly US$30

million in

florr¡ J(ol.q ! lrndinn J9il*lÀf .fu¡rRr¡ ¿ß¡ ¡'ßr¡,odJtr ,Sir¡.r JgdJ

the Internet is going to cost you plenty,

whether yori tleat it like a bad smell that

.

revenLle against

may not be complete farce^ strong possibility that it is). BLrt one thing is for sure

ac1

got only US $ 12 rnillion in online

yor-rr'

(althor-rgh there is a

rnillion in

sales, The Tñbune Co

ao

"Internet stl'ategy"

value. Until now the Intelnet has managed to get arolrnd that because of the obscene amolrnts of cash that

New Media

alticles tl'rey want knowing that the publisher is giving it a1l away in the hope that t1-rey'll show sorle loyalty later on. Fat chance. Internet Lrsers ale notof iously fickle and will cL'op you the instant you hint at chalging for something that they've grown to

takes to fill out an online registration form that allows them free access to

your information in retllrn for a rninimal amolrnt of informalion about thehselves that yorÌ can wave at potential aclvertisers. A recent report in The New York Times confirmed that'Web Llsers just want

cost as a necessaly part ofthe learning

cnrwe of

wolking out how to make

money from online pr-rblishing.

to be left alone.

more than a couple of weeks) can sit

Researchels at Nashville's Vandelbilt University told

Business'W'eek.com is still free online, despite at least one, and perhaps several, attempts to begin charging a subscription fee. Neq.'

smugly at their compltters glabbing all the free newspaper and nagaztne

the paper that 94 per cent of \ùØeb Lrsers slrrveyed have refnsecl to

York's Media Central was going to start chalging for their Media Daily news aftelApril 1, butyou can still get

awareness. Savr.J¡ ttsers (and that's

anyone who's used the Internet for'

April 1998 THE

G0RRXSPONDDNT

Ele Edlt Vew q9 ggoloark gpüoN qlÞctdy lundow

ç"1"+lôl AlÈl*lglfr lh | lkìqes I I Pril I

6..r lMl

ODù

Êdod

year to rtrn. The Los Angeles Times leported in January that the cost of mainlaining a content site hacl lisen

Llolp

ñd

by 300 per cent in the past t$.o years.

W -Âlt

rtLu

@belftUlflork@Ìurer

ñru. T[rt r F,t

situationw'orse. For example, forevery 100 people who stop buyingthe Soutb China l,Iorning Postbecar-rse they can

can't agree on the numbers, itappears).

it free online, the papel

loses

The Intelnet is beginning to hrut tladitional advertising revenLtes.

Neu,.spapers ale forecast to lose 40 per cent oftheir leal estate advertising and Ho

30 per cent of their help-u,'anted ad

l€ars Shed as Pol Pot !E Crßftaled

in fì-ee. (Some of us remembel u,'hen tuIedia Dailywantecl to char ge in 1994 but backed down q,.hen users threatened to leave in dloves) Neutsweele mag zine is only just taking its first tentative Internet steps.

The u'eb acldress \\'\\¡w.neu'sweek. com annoLÌnces an online velsion will

arrive by summel'. Newsweek

Interacti\¡e editor Michael Rogers, explaining the magazines reticence in getting online, told the Nern'York Døil.y Neu,s: "I've spent a 1ot of time on the'ùØeb, and know tliere's still a lot of

lnoney to lose on it." !íhi1e the big names ale having

a

revenue by 2001 to the Internet, clairns Forrester Research

enjoyed only a tenth of Allazon's sales, but still managed to lose about the san'ie amollnt.

While pLr blishers ale seeing increasing eviclence that the Internet is hr-rrting new-spaper and ntagazine sales they also see the cost of their

ently ticket to tlie Internet rising sleeply. Establishing ancl maintaining a site is not as cheap as was once

thor:ght. Accorcling to Forrester

Research, a high-profile content site costs an aveî^ge of US$3.1n-iillion a Elê Edlt Visw qo EgokmarÌ qrdoN qlÞctory Undow I'qasr

Oeùr

its online arm, ancl has twice

postponed a plannecl IIrO. A mr-rch-touted Internel success is the online bookstore Amazon.com, br-rt it has NEVER rnade a profit since

the day it opened its doors for business. It turned over US$150 rnillion in sales and adr.ertising revenlre last year - but still lost about US$9 million. Rival Barnes fHE

CORRXSP0IIIDENT

& Noble

Apr.il 199ii

that Amer-ican newspapers earned last

year in advertising re\¡enue, cll' the US$188 billion advertisers spent in all US media in1997. And once you take

into accolrnt that almost l'ialf

adveltising business plan crashing

and internationally.

Let's think about vr'hat potential zrdverrising dollals the Internet n'iight

also about

I

CoVEil ST0RY

ililS

makes gathering meaningful infolmation on an audience and its dernographics \rel'y difficult. Tq'o

in the field of web

Êtd

WEEI(

hitter Nielsen Media Research

I

DÄIIYBRIEF¡Tû

I

to annolrnce a tlacking

LreiiÊr c.r''J,ûrÊÊ, YJ¡li po f¿r be't'1rc rt: r'eir turrettcl

SPEHÄI t{oTtCr. e !:or

l

r +E¡ gle t i:';F, ar:cl

caRFrR

;rnÉcririll

r z ¡3ar çì,r

n b

ì

cEHTEa

?'iì

Ðnl 41e CarÈer (.,.rÈ.et

T

YflUB HOilET

H'rberi lJ¿ri(Êr tàlks r/iih Dick Cc'¡ld en r,,¡e:.etlie

clinp Ðsc

shitcp,' mNrtu\Kdhrrrc c\FLn!\ù/lr:{7,.rilf chclkùtrLour l!r:,:r Cnhd¡ úlcôd lhe!r4Þ]]W! nrrdß$ Lr b LcJmrt ul lhcolh.r \rnNr\,rilJ r!tú

a

uÇ*

lll lcl.!

system. But rnore is not always better, since each ûreasLrrelnent firm slices and dices'$l'eb audiences differently and inconsistently - and is, for now at

rp

g:tly :t-11 sig Ê't s

I corwurrn ernxû crlrDE

¿.r e

I,rró1,!

TnavEL cEtrrEn

El. Ed[

Yl.H q9 ggola¡rrk 9püoú

el"olal u lffilh

|

QlÈlå;lSlfr lorü lh |

rulrr.¡5

tu

t'*rlniel ru*rl**l gurla"reml rc$-Þ-

capitalisation of almost US$5 billion, yet managed to scrape up a surph-rs of little rnore than US$4 million last qr-tarter'. At a

this rate investors onlyhave 3I2years to ¡r,'ait for their money back.

FCC member, editor and

IEEO GOOD HEIPI

L:rplolers c.r* f rnd gienhy oi icp i'n4F€cIs ¿t thÉ

Lrr3fre

lcÍ

i¡i¡r¡

is

it's only publishels who at'e lost in the world of cyber-business. Fact: not one of tl-re top 10 New Yorklisted Internet companies is in the b1ack. Yahoo, the cttrrent clarling of

fiicds: Pret'are +É\,,, icr t*e ì:ardÉr iilnes.li1Éåd

T¡IE EURO

['le¿a¿ .iÊ¿C tor

audience

measLlrement, and old-rneclia hear,y

Of conrse, don't get the idea that

I

I I

@ffi@w

@w

companies, Meclia Metlix and Relevant Knowledge, are ha\.ing mixecl success

market.

l-ìo¡dlllaÍì Sãchs ri'l r",:uitl¿t

ri

Mlré:!!lÞlhld

leasl, completely focusecl on the US Eolp

ihe f 1iÍltron aôôk rE ¡D'/l r]Èar{ertelit!'. úut tlìel "r éa,e:n i lieen it'll vi +fk ilìÉ rerolLÍioll

@lÈ¡låålglfr

The anonymous natr-rre of the'ùØeb

Intet'net investors, has

I

the

Internet aclveltising money came fi'om computer firms - u'ith Intel, Microsoft and IBM contlibutlng the lion's share - it doesn't take an expelt to work oLlt that one blip in the PC rnarket in the nextyear cor.rldbring n'rany an Internet

to databases of thor-rsands of classified job advertisements, locally, regionally

offer a general publisher. Separate

Standard TIGERNEI

billion

expected to jump in soon. NetRatings, backed by electronics giant Hitachi, is

medium are also sufferin g. Worcl, one of the first and hippest of the online fi)agazines, closed in March, along

Internet generation, recently shed 20 per cent of the staff of \ùØired Digital,

It's tiny compared to the US$40+

down.

grown olganically out of the ne¡l'

with its sistel publicatton, Cbarged. 'ùØired Ventr-rres, whose print n^a.g zine has been the bible of the

respectively (even the industry itself

Most of that money is forecast to go to the sites with either a very large or ve1-y specialist audience. The "search" and "stalt" pages, such as Yahoo, Netscape, Microsoft, AOL and Excite get more visits in an hour that many publications get in a month.

Specialist job sites like Monstel'Boat'd offel a raft of services to job-hunters including free CV display and access

Ètl#lelfrl I I Èh. I

hard time establishing tliemselves on the Intelnet, the content sites that have

Internet advertising tn1997 at US$907

Ancl, naturally, the rules of the conlent-for-fi'ee game make the

mole than a qLrarter of a million Hong Kong clollars a year in neu,'sstand sales.

Bleak enough? Let's make it worse.

.flEilsntÊ¡1F0081¿A,REiE¡arñftÈSsr,liLrftì,¡iÉ.r¡.À!'ù.¡riilre'J¿r¡!-..,!rrin¡sF.ni!r,=ìnrr"lilL1,ìi:|,e.:rr{¡1Pr3r .l'n'$i¡kr¡.{it,-L:¿'Pr.l;tí,!.1Ùrl nk.!ì,..!"FoFltür.5E¡¡{t F,rìIr*lit,rrlâ.?ñhrìri,'"1ri(rl*'s!l':tlilrr!¡þ\(^

Bureau and Intelnet research firrn Cowles,/Sirnba put the total value of

million and US$597 n'iiilion

read

r¿

research by the Intefnet Adveftising

fecb

nologt writer, Nigel Amtsh"ong is a

Inten'tet c onsu ltancy New Media Communicalions. He wou.ld rather play bass guitar full tinr,e .for tbe FCC bønd Tbe Bloody Amøtews. co

-fotr.nder of

tb e

@

,***a"or,,**"raa

)i. - Iì

LIVE LIFE IN TITE FÄST tÂ,NE.þuhlisbei"s cu"e swint,ming it1. a. sect o/'red. i.nk becctuse oJ tlteir uebsites btLt the bectdlon,g t"ttsh lo ct?d.te ntore cotttinues rntabctted

Majc,n"

April 1998 THD C0RRXSP0llfilHfT

CanOn

Canon Hongkong Company Limited

10/F., Mirror Tower, 61 Mody Rd., Kowloon, Hong Kong

TeI. 2884 77BB Fax; 2568 8505

Services/Products: Sole Distributor: JOS Consumer Electronìcs Address:21lF., Cornwall House, Taikoo Place,979 King's Rd , Quarry Bay, Hong Kong

N/anager

N/lr

Assistant Product l\¡arket¡ng

emttil KrolkLsia@ atttnail.cont

Director Managing Director (Operations) Marketing Co-ordinator Senior Managing

Canon cameras and video camcorders

Senior

KROLL ASSOCIATES (ASIA) LIMITED 906-91I Mount Parker House, Illl King's Road, Taikoo Shin.g

lvlanager

Albert

Chan

Ms Louise

Wong

Services:

Stephen G Vickers David W Holloway Yasmin R Shaker

Interncúional Risk Managentent ConsuLtants

2565 2008

I n.t e r nati.onctL C o rp

25652007

Wo

rldtv ide

o

rat e Inv e st i gato rs

B us ine s s I nt

elli g enc e

Bnlr ARrwoRr<s Hong Kong Trade Development Council 38/F , Off¡ce Tower, Convention Plaza. 1 Harbour Boad, Wanchai, Hong Kong.

Tel: 2584-4333 Fax. 2824-0249 E-mail: hktdc@tdc org hk Web Site: http://www tdc org hk

Unique, personally-selected quality furniture and furnishings representing the best of Bali , Java, Lombok & Kalimantan.

OPEN HOUSE SrrarrN

For Hong Kong trade statistics, information and

F.^¡Lto.

72

2/F, Hutchison House, Central, Hong Kong Tel:2524 5031 Fax: 2810 6586 lnternet: http!/www.shriro,com

Director Manager

Managing Senior

P.L. Poon Jimmy Wan

Sole agent of Nikon cameras, Hasselblad cameras, Linhof cameras, Elinchrom

studio flash system, Epson LCD portables TV Agent of Epson multi-media projector

JOANNE BUNKER - STRINGERS MEDIA SERVICES: Business, Finance, Banking & Forex / Writing / Editing / Research / Speeches.

Tel: 2575 1339 Fax: 2893 3486 E-mail: jbunker@netvigator.com LYNNE CURRY -Writer/Researcher specialising in business,

FRANCOIS BISSON - Film, Video - 10 years in Asia. NTSC - PAL Video Equipment Hire Lighting, Sound, etc...

Tel/Fax: (852) 2570 9722 Mobile: 9097 2766

finance,Hong Kong China Trade Tel:2813 1559 Fax: 2813 0302 E-mail: lcurry@hkstar.com ROBIN LYNAM leatures on travel, food, wine and spirits, music and literature. Speeches and corporate copy writing also undertaken.

Tel: (852) 2827 2873 Fax: (852) 2194 4551 EDWARD PETERS - Features, Travel, Profiles, Research Many Asia Pacific photos. Tel: 2328 2553 Fax:2328 2554 E-mai I :edpeters @ netvigator.com ANN WILLIAMS -Specialist in fashion. Press releases, brochures,

FREELANCE ARTISTS

newsletters etc. Tel: 2815 9789 Fax:2545 02O2 E-mail: williamsann

@

hotmail,com

\T

Rodak (Far East) Limited

+Egrxnla¡naa

JENNIFER BOWSKILL - Specialising in portra¡ts,fashion,events,

DAVID THURSTON - People, events, travel,wacky digital portraits.

Tel: 2524 4381 Fax: 2525 077 4 E-mail : thu rston @ asiaonl i ne.net HUBERT VAN ES - News, people, travel, commercial & movie stills Tel: 2559 3504 Fax: 2858 1721 E-mail: vanes@asiaonline.net KEES PHOTOGRAPHY -- News. Features . Online Tel:2547 9671 Fax: 2547 8812 E-mail: kees@hk.super.net

Kodak House 1, 321 Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong

Public Relations Marketing

Manager

Communications

Commer-

cial & Coporate photography Tel/Fax.2547 6678 Pager:71168968 #8&ì8

Neil Farrin Photography Ltd.

Jessica Chan Enquiry : 2564 9333

t/F Tien Chu Commercial Building, 173-174 Gloucester Road, Wanchai, HK

Direct

Neil Famin Photography

Fax

: 2564 9309 : 2856 5004

has been established in Hong Kong since 1977 ,having travelled worldwide on major advertising campaigns, hotel and colporâte assignments. MoLeover, we have overseasproductioncontacts for allworldwide

proJects.

Please call

CIara Chung Realty Ltd. 2881 -1 866 / 9043-2807 Tai Hang - Causeway Bay

570 sq.ft., mid - hi / floors, options of 1 bed studio, 1 bed with study or, 2 beds. Fullyipartly f urnished or unfurnished Panorama view. Close to MTR, buses and trams. 6 - 12 months lease.

Tel:25747878

.

Color Enlargement Digital Retouching & Output

April

1998

Contact Andrew Lynch at2554 6034 or fax 28L4 0633

CARDINAL ASSOCIATES LIMITED FINANCIAL & CORPORATE SERVICES

\Øe provide qualified and éxperienced advice on how to form yolrr own company, handle accollnting and auditin g aîdminimise your tax liabilities.

Contact: Irene Davidson, Telz 283469s9 pax: 2834 4989 Mobile: 9454 2298

Faxz2892l727

Public Relations Manager Phillip Bruce 28247700 282477Os Media Relations Manager Terri Lai 28247152 Media Enquiries (24 hours)

u I-=

rq/ cranboLnTìe photograpl-ry åTäåi[.'"ïïåîËåffi

ffi;,Î:Jff[:"1

S.E. Hsra ano rne Pacnc

Terry Duckham/Asiapix Tel.25729544 Fax.2575 8600

Function:

EDITORIAL . CORPORATE . INDUSTRIAL

e-mail: asiapix@ hk.linkage.net

Developing Hong Kong's new airport at Chek Lap Kok

Ray Cranbourne Photography Ltd.

The region's premieI adventllre travel

96 Pokfulam Road, 1 l/F, Flat B-2 YY Mansion, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 25248482 Fax: (852) 25261630

and action spol'ts publication, welcomes contnbutions. Fleelance

THE

ARTHUR HACKER

eclitols, sub-edítors & designers also lequired.

Tel:2521.

63ff

Fax, 2868

Welcomes his new clients to

FCC L997 T-SHIRT

HK$ L20. 0 0 This classic piece of Hacker memorabilia now available directly from the FCC

4hr4

1799 E-rnail: aaedit@asiaonline net

RICHARD

tE|l

F.

ONES

Tnn

HRrnpn¡ssnns

Video Cameraman / Editor News Documentary, corporate

Tel. 2982 0508 Mobile: 9104 5358 Fax. 2982 1758 e-mail: theaqe@hk.net

THE GORRf,SPOIVDEI{T

The Correspondent requires freelance writers to cover the Club's lunches and

A¡nPORT AUTHORIIY

)"

Services: Film Processing

FREE LUNCH

E-mail: cardinal@netviqator.com

r¡

Ground Floor, 184 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong.

Tel : 2526-0123 . Fax : 2524-9598 Managing Director Johnny Lee Lam Yan Hung Shop Manager

COATES ON

if you have any photographic requirements

HK$9,000.- to HK$1 2,000.- exclusive

COLOR SIX LABORATORIES LTD.

GAVIN COATES - "SAY IT WITH A CARTOON!'CAII GAViN Tel: 2984 2783 E-mail: gavincoa@netvigator.com

speakers.

FREELANCE PHOTOGRAPHERS

Kau To Village, Shatin, Hong Kong (neru' Cltinese Uníver:i¡' & Rucecourse ) Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays: lOam - 7pm Saturday: 10¿m - 5 pm or by appointment Tel:26O6 7093 Fax: 2601 4485

lnternational Section at2584-+333 Ext 7+89,

snnro

FREELANCE CAMERAMEN

6 Yucca Villas, Yung Ping Path off Lai Ping Rd.

analys¡s, fast, call TDC's Media Communications

f r*onl

FREELANCE WRITERS

Street TeI:2973 0512 Formerly from Codq Plazn

9 Stounton

Aplil 1998

THD C0RRxSPOlulDìlr

INNIER CIRCLE DAN RYAN'S

The Rickshaw Club 22 Robinson Road, Mid Levels Hong Kong Tel:2525 39'11 Fax:2521 3599

CHICAGO GRILL

Re¿l

,r4ø¿en'¿caø

Place Queensway, Hong Kong Phone: 2845 4600 114 Pacific 88

Tood d.^¿ Ð,r1t4¿

200 Ocean Terminal

Harboul City, Kowloon Hong Kong Phone: 2735

LIVE MUSIC MOST NIGHTS GREAT PARTY VENUE A GYM AND SWINIMING POOL

BY FAR THE BEST PIZZA IN TOWN SHOW YOUR FCC CARD WHEN ORDERING TO ENJOY A SPECIAL DISCOUNT

6l I I

PROFESSIONAL CONTACTS The Professional Contacts page appeffs every month in The Correspondent and on the FCC Correspondent web site at >http://www.fcchk.org < . Let the world know who you are, what you do and how to reach you. There has never been a better time. Listings start at just $100 per month,

with a minimum of a six month listing, and are billed monthly to your FCC account.

n

! 2lines@$100 E 3lines@$150 n 4lines@$200 E

small box @ $300x6mths / $250x1

E

I

mths E

n

copy attached

5tnes@$250

Large box @ $600x6mths / $550x1lmths

Large box w/ spot colour @ $700x6mths / $600xllmths

Members at

work

ared

play

You never know what might be inside the Club's cameÍa. Among the many scenes captured last month include atleft, Steve Vickers on a call to his office: "Yes, Mr Kroll. No, Mr Kroll. Of course, Mr K¡oll."

Above is outgoing Club President and amateur

illusionist Keith Richburg doing his rendition of FCC Membership No

At top left is Mr Action Asia himself, RTHK's Keith Jay, in action at the Main Bar.

Company Name: Address: Signature: For more information telephone 2512 9544 or fax 2575 8600

THE CORRf,SPONIIEI{T

a

David Copperfield act.

April

1998

Apr.il 1998 THE CORRf,sPOlfIlEl{T

John Giannini's farewell bash o Immecliate past presiclent.John famor_rsly dressed_doq.n lu minary

noni. Giannini will be le¿rving the

Table for two Bob Davis lines up a shot on the old FCC pool table, controversially clonated to the now-deftlnct Press Club some years

ago and now residing at the tùØaterfiont Restaurant in Yung Shue Wan, Lattnta.

Giannini Dauid Higgins A Jond

fareuell ft'om Neua

Sb

atu

Ricbbutg prcsents cr Mttt't'cr-y, Zcr.t'tot'ti þrint to Giarmini

lctstþie¿eof;@I

The Presidents' club Confi'onted by the rare sight of three past l"CC presidents - John Giannini, Htt van Es ar-rclPaul Bayfielcl - Keith Statharn, a plesident

in his own light at his KSA consultancy, clecided a toast was the older of the day.

Joh

t¡tattttittí and

n Giarut itti sa.ys.faretuell

/erty Richarrison, Jeff Heseltuootl Mitch Dauiclsott

m

cttt¿l

tbe ltalirnt

Getteral, Afturo Conte

Birthday gal Babi Fernanclo, the youl-ìg lacly who pttts of Tbe Cort'espondent, and "friend.s" recently celebratecl l-rer bithday at tl're Club wl-rile Russell Cawthorne ancl Lisa \Øeaver look on.

togetlrer tlre pages

lX/eauer

and Mil¿e Du.tttt

Yoiót1tct

Sbarnta cntcl Cla.ire Hollinguortb Ray and ùrida Ctøttbott nte Apr.il 19

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