The Correspondent, September 1995

THE

GOTSPOIIDDNT

Tbe Official Publication of the Foreign Corcespondents'Club of Hong Kong

EYEWITNESS REPORT ON

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ADAYTO REMEMBER The FCC is there for the big release

A fond farewell to Penny Byrne

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Gor-nxc F,tx.tncs

Club to have two new categories

I

this book!

An in-depìh profile of the top I 18 courses

ifhe ch-rb building is going to need $ 1O rniltion lrzorttr of rna-ilaterramce arrd repair lrrork. To trelp co\zer th,ese and otkrer costs, tkre l>oard is setting up tqzo rìes/ ca-tegories of rrrerrrl>ers: Corporate arrd Diplornatic -

in

Asio

Developed with the ossisfonce

of

Peter Thomson ond

Gory Ployer, this øltroclive hardbock publicolion conloins comprehensive course reports on the region's best

golf

clubs. From

4,300

courses, 11.8 were chosen

by o ponel of golfíng professionols for their meril in design,

ployobility, club focili¡ies, internotional oppeol, toumomenß ho.s/ed ond occess ibility lo visilors. Contoining

250 colour phologrophs, this high-quolity publicotion will groce the bookshelves of every golfer.

he FCC welcomes its new first vice-president, John Giannini.

John took over from Nury Vittachi, who asked the Board of Governors to relieye him from his post. Nury has

moved from th e Far E qste rn Economic Re u í e ut back to th:e S o utb C lc in a M o rn-

íng Post.

As a result, Nury requested to be reclassified from a correspondent to a joumalist member. Ergo, he no longer

qualifies for the first vic€-presidency.

The board unanimousþ asked Nury to retain his seat. This may rcad like legal nonsense, but, of coufse, it isn't. The board has had to deal with several cases of members who had to be reclassified lately for whatever reason.

On another

topic, the board has decided to set up another new subcommittee . It has effectively split the work of the Professional Committee in two. Mark Clifford and his Professional Committee will continue to organize luncheon speeches, the showing of documentaries and the other professional events that make the FCC the best speaking venue in town.

The new Workroom Committee will deal with the frrrther expansion of services

in the FCCIBM Intemational

Workcentre, better known as the workroom. John Giannini has become Press

its convenor.

Anybodywho feels strongly

about making the workroom even more professional is welcome to join the comrnittee. Just give John a call.

The workroom will no doubt also

become the centre of the InteffietTf,[

activities the FCC is currently setting

up

(see pøge 25

for detøíIs). Soon every subscriber to the Net will be able to see our home pages. These pages onthe Woddwide Webwillnot only explainwhat the FCC is, butwill feature upcoming events and the weekly menu, to give just two examples. The first pages made by Martin Merz and Stuart Becker are ready. I must say, they look quite impressive.

The FCC will be able to offer all its members a tøery attractive subscription to the Intemet. Furthermore, we will have our own dedicated sofrware.

You will be able to use Internet from

home, office or from the five PCs in the workroom for approxim ately hat[ the going rate. 'W'e will also set up a training program for those of us, like me, who have not been in a position to spend their Saturdays surfing the net.

Former president Simon Holberton stated in his President's

Report onJune 8 that the FCC is preparing itselffor a comprehensive renovation of its premises. That is not an

understatement. Eady next year a major refurbishment and renovation of the building will take place. This is the result of the new lease we signed recentþ until the end of 2001. One of the requirements is that we maintain our building properþ. This, however,

has not been done since the FCC movedin, according to a detailed Structural Survey prepared by building consultants Vigers. This survey has exposed many problems. Among them,

CoRRDSPOMIENT Seprember 1995

the place has to be rewired and the airconditioners need to be updated. The kitchen will be overhauled, according to the general manager. Mr. Lee-

Mahony is already very busy with the

renovation. Total costs: about $10 million.

No doubt these works will create some inconvenience to members. The club will, however, at no time during

the renoyation stop serving breakfast,

lunch, dinner and drinks.

The cost of the renoyation has broughtup aplanto puttheFCC on an erren more sound financial footing.

And I don't mean raising fees and prices. The board is extending the membership by creating two special

golf

Each

o o o

course

Corporate membership (article 6, sub Articles ofAssociation) on the books.

But it wasn't rzery successftrl, despite the many requests from companies.

That is why the board is introducing transferable Corporate and Diplomatic g,

memberships.

'Why a separate membership for diplomats? Because bymaking it transferable, they tell us, it will be much easier for their goveffrments to foot the entrance fee bill. Salaries at some diplomatic representations - espeare lower than in cially Asian ones the corporate wodd. The board believes diplomats could be an import^nt category, particulady with regard to the future of the club after 1997.

-Hans

Yriens

trü-¡õ

includes informo¡ion on:

The cost of ploying eoch course.

Key people ot eoch club, including nomes of designer

ond resident pro.

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Locotion ond occessibility of the club.

ORDER YOUR COPY NOW AND GET 25% OFF THE RETA¡L PRICE OF HI(S390 Pleqse send

associate memberships : Corporate and

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repoi

The club history ond surroundings.

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copies

Contoct Detoils

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Kong.

FCC-l

Gathering for the big moment pfess s/ere on hand to lfhe illtefllational greet .{ung San Suu I{¡zi on trer release frorrr house arrest. t'r not often that military regimes fI actualJy welcome the foreignpress.

sweating bnrtes of cameramen and twitching ageîcy hacks, all trying to

But the State Law and Order Restora-

behave and make polite conversation, balancing bare feet and dainty tea-cups all at once. Only one of the multitude

tion Council

which maintains a grip on Burma seemed to c1o just that. Having released Aung San Suu Kyi on July 10, SLORC took its time telling its own people about it, (SLORC)

but they did want the wodd to know.

Reporters known to SLORC were not given visas to attend including

Burma specialist Bertil- Lintner of collrse, and Relrters' Robert Birsel in Bangkok. The rest of us wele piocessed fast, and not even asked to buy the usual Foreign Exchange Certificates on arival at the airport. A few days ol the hack-pack swarming over Rangoon - hiring cars, changing money with the drivers, dining at the Strand or buying soft drinks at The Lady's gate

-

must have made a sig-

nificant contribution to the capital's economy an)'way.

Some journalists hacl stories about direct encounters with the ever-present security apparatlrs - calls with strange echoes or sudden stops, mysterious knobs in the lamps. Never mind the paranoia, it certainly felt unwise to let one's words flow freely in the back of a cab or on a crowdecl street corner. Try walking into a crowded market with a microphone, in search ofnatural sotnd,

and you'll discover that iust as you get close enough to a noise of con-

versation or music or

house,

in a startling

transgression of

Burmese manners.

The FCC was represented of course.

Simon Long (ex-BBC Hong Kong) says he doesn't miss microphones at all and clisplayed a more languid elegance than hitheto noted. He is now southeast Asia correspondent for the Economist based in Bangkok. Current BBC people, Fergall Keane and the inimitable D.C. were there, as was former bar stalwart Bill Barnes in his SCM Post incarnation. Sandra Burton of TIME

ll;ad akeady got her scoop and left, while photographer Robin Moyerwas askecl to organise the rabble to make the photo-call worthwhile.

Itwas indeed time to put an end to the rrgby scrums. Moyer drew a line in the dirt, everyone lined up behind it and helcl their breath (wouldthatJapanese TV crew be the first to rush in?), while Aung San Suu Kyi walked once

up and down the driveway and away.

The shLltters snapped, the line held jtrst and the tea party could begin.

-In the midst of wonying if She was saying something un-missable, some of uswere olrtragedto discover "orrf" party being crashed by mere tourists. Ïrey too had heard the Iady was free and some, who had written letters on her

moving money, it will mys-

behalf for Amnesty lnternational for

teriously fade away. But we wel€ spoiled. In the

years, couldn't resist the chance of a meeting. One tourist went so far as to claim he worked for an airlin e magazine, to which this canny, classy woman replied: "You're not really a joumalist at all, ate you? You're here under false pretences! Do, have some more tea!"

rnanner of an English gen-

tlewoman, Aung San Suu Kyi invited the foreign media to her house for a photo-call followed by afternoon tea. Delightful!

There were hulking, Tf,D CORRXSP0Iì|DDNÌ Seprember 1995

refused to take his shoes offto enterthe

-Vaudine

England

September 1995 THI

@ CORRXSPoI\IDH{T

Not much to lavgh about

GOLF SOCIETY

2. The full amount of the account immediately becomes due

Julian Walsh has taken over as secre-

for payment.

3. Use of the club premises is denied until the account is settled.

tary of the FCC Golf Society. He can be contacted directly by fax on252l l97a

or by mail to the club.

The Entertainment Committee

riod, then that member will be

nt andktthrc club some-

what nearer the time.

'W'r'"'lîåî'+'.';:il"'ï?:5'?: mous, Larry Feign, the creator of the rùØodd of Lily Wong, was introduced

by Nury Vittachi. It's ironic rhar rhese two funnymen, who have co-authored several successful books, should be speaking to rhe FCC and in August.

Ironic because, despite being the traditional silly season, neither man, and especially Larry Feign, could offer any real cheer.

Larry Feign's speech basically cov-

of Lily \ùØong was that "it provided an otttlet for the clandestine feelings of a large segment of the populafiofl" .

Feignnoted a chill started in 1988, with adjectives being changed. Interestingly, this happened at the time that the then owner, Rupert Murdoch, was considering business deals ín China.

For all that, the next few years were like a golden age, "Lily \Xzong was one of the most outspoken fea-

ered the short history of political cartooning in Hong Kong. No ancient art this. Concerns have more traditionally been the good old "culture clash and the minutiae of daily life," said Feign. "The prevailing dogma of 'let,s all shut up and make money' was a state religion."

SØhat changecl everything was DayaBay, which galvanised a lot of

Ttre I)aya, Bay rruclea-r planl^t ga"h.a-nised Ctrinese

cartoonists i11to

cartoonists, particulady in the Chi nese press, into doing more

political

work.

doing fiiore

ìØith a slight hint of nostalgia in his voice, he admitted: "I miss the good old days of such easy targets." The other big difference to thepresent daywas an

editorial decision at ttre Soutlt Cbino Morning Postin 1988 to turn the strip into a much more political beast.

"Make it meaner, make it nastier,"

was how Feign reported the instruction. It was one hell of an editorial mandate - but it was a very difficult thing to do. "I couldn't get a rise out of people . . . it was like screaming in the

Political x'ork-

Because Feign had spoken so well arrd at some length, what questions

there were tended to be of the factual

type. Francine Brevetti asked about the possible market for a Lily Wong comic book, which got a polite No. Rex Ellis asked if political caftooning crossed the language boundary. Apparently it does, but Chinese cartoons are by and large much more metaphorical.

This, though, made them "Yery subtle, very powertil", said Feign, who added thatin orderto understandthem, a full comprehension of Chinese was

needed. Steve Vines, who even as an editor knows more about being sacked than sacking, later picked up on this, askingifthis meantthatpost-1997 thete could be a renaissance of cartooning.

Feign said he thought there would.

1997.

wind," he said.

But not totally so. The problem

For I¿rry Feign, these pressures got personal and nasty. À series of

was that "people don't express themselves politically, but they are a-w^re," said Feign, who believed the strength

anonymous phone calls one night concluded with a faxed message ,,Be Careful Mr Feign".

PAYS PâI g.ry TII4q

The Board of Govemors has decided to increase the penalty adminisrrationchargefrom $ 1o0to $200. Thus, if a member is posted for non-payment of his/her accolrnt, the following will automatically happen: 1. Apenalty administration charge of $200 is added tothe account.

out that there were no Chinese people present at the lunch, and suggested there was "alack of Chinese interest" in the issues Lily Wong raised.

Feign's response was that when

ttt

per cent positive".

Feign's concluding riposte in response to Tony Paul's assumptions was: "It's really rather insulting and not true," It was delivered in the slightly pained and upset tone of voice of a man dealing with bigger issues and more unsettling consequences than he had expected.

@

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Eo""l]..:rc., Llrc G, *,-rrr,,''

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A1l FCC .tr.*t."" .rr'" ..'.1.o-". S"Jl¡', ,,1.-,. lo t .lt of

spDrtrsÊs

"pr..,

".l.

anrVol gLrosts

cannot L. i,t.r"l o,l" J,

S125 '"ìll t" ì""i"J "Lu"g" "I agaìlst t}c ar:rounts oI [].u"" rcgìs1cr tìrnìr

,=\

^l1"r.Jirg, "],o "L,o'r.l,l

ñs soolr ¿rs 1ru""ì1r1" '.1tL t]," receplior stalL on 2521 I i;1 1,

ìronì.ì,,g

"1,'t r\r.¡,rrr,r"llotrorr r¡us1 lr",,.o,1" b"fo"",,,i 11do,* n,, lIn'Jo.', iS.-1r["'ìr"" 25,

1. rWhat did Paul Hogan tell Americans to put on the barbie?

r

tr

Another shrimp. tr Another prawn. E Another wichitty grub.

What is the essential ingredient lor aPavlova?

I

'') I Scott

Fuller of Ihe Tendeiloín Mea.t Cofltþan)).

Demonstrate yolu knowledge of Austratan food and win a supply of meat, fish and seafood from The

lt.

I I I I T

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ttttlttttttttrltrtttttttttttttttttt¡tr

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Lily Wong's baby had to be named, 65 per cent of those who responded to

On top of that, 90 per cent of the criticism came from expats, whereas he said the Chinese people were "99

"".]u,-,

Know your Oz fircker

The only real verbal exchange with Tony Paul, who pointed

the questionnaire in the Posf about

cials saying that laws guaranteeing freedom would not be valid post-

Members are reminded that rudestaffwill not be tolerated nnder any circumstances. In particular, the club will take stern action against any member who refuses to present his/her membership card when asked to do so.

It is ofno consequence how long people may have been members. Indeed, those members who have been with the club some time should be the first to appreciate that the Food and Beverage operation is based on entry of the card into the system. Staff have been asked to ensure this is respected.

In order to spare embarrassment all round, please play by the rules. ness to

IT

O,. \-\/".],.

27,.['"on 5"õ0 t" B, tL,..1..1, ì" Lol.ling n Cn"l.t*ìl Rcceptìo,. i,. tlt. ]\'f ti..

I)i.ìr.g Iìoo- fot

IIi"

PLAY BY THE RULES

came

what it should be called were Chinese.

tures in the posf, said Feign. "I enjoyed 99 per cent editorialfreedom."

I.ast year, though, the pressure really began to be felt, with Beijing offi-

Also in you diary should be the Indochina Party on Thursday, October 5 ancltheBollywoodEvening on Thursday, November 23. Full details will be published but please put these dates in your diary now.

I.q

RECEPTIOI{ 1995

re-

quired to settle by Autopa¡'.

5. Should an account remain unpaid by the end of the month in which the posting occurs, then the membership will cease and steps will be taken to recover the debt.

is

planning a rcal7y big attraction for this coming New Year's Eve. It's a Sundal' this year so make a note in your diary now. Full details will be advertised in Tb e C owe sp o n de

CORPS

4. Should a member be posted on two successive months, or on three occasions within any l2-month Pe-

NE'W'YEAR SPECIAL

Lartlr Feign ga\ze the club a learrr'ecl lunctreon a-ddress on the art and laistory of ttre l2olitical cartoollist' And tre rnade it <:rear it's a serious t>r-rsiness- l\¿fictra.el l\d^cke;. r1¡as in ttre audience.

DIPLOMATIC

tr

White of

egg. tr

Is a Moreton Bay Bug, tr Al insect?

tr

Egg yolk.

tr

Lemon juice.

Acrustacean?

tr

Aseaslug?

Name: Address:

I T

I I I I I I I I I I I

Tendedoin Meat Company.

T

Simply tick the coffect answer to the

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three questions below and fax the ¡ Tel: I completed form to fax no. 2865 2559. T Thepersonwho submits the first correct entry checked can select HK$500 of

meat, fish and seafood from the Tendedoin Meat Company's catalogue for delivery to his,/her home.

The Tendedoin Meat Company.

Home deliveries of meat, fish and seafood.

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T el: 2877 -27

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33 Fax: 2877 -1359

Tendernet: tmc@glink.net.hk ttt

r¡ttttttrrl¡ltlttttttttrrl¡l¡rttt

tltt September 7995 TÃE

CORRf,SPONIIEI{T

t I I

Will there be a 1997 exodus?

The \reat in feview

lfo sta;. of not to stay? It's a- dilernrna Hong I(ong ¡2r-rbliskrers are hanzing to face Lrp to a,s 1997 draqzs closerPeter Cordingle:. says tkrere a_re plent.y of reasolas not to go- But he thinks sorrae rvill-

'W';::*#J:t',,iäîJi::: Richard Gordon was going to iell us about the attractions of his born-

again city. It's a pity he coulcln't make it to Hong Kong and so had to cancel his luncheon speech at the club. Gordon has great ambitions for Subic and he would no doubt have made a plausible case for Hong Kongbased publications shifting their operations down there. Not that he

would have been the first to make the pitch. Singapore and Malaysia were first in line.

It is likely that proprietors of a

infrastructure, but, luckily for Hong

true over short-haul distances. It might be inexpensive to

Kong, Singaporehas

also got the Singapore government.

ptrblishinBombay if you can get some

If

Hong Kong can keep its freedoms, itwill

decent newsprint, that is but it cer-

always have anadvantage over

that rival and all the others.

But that, of course, is the big question. Will the Chinese authori ties behave themselves? I amindebted

to a recent issue of Med.ia magazine for news Lhat there is a growing confidence among publishers that things

will be fine. One unnamed proprie-

whole raft of publications have started measuring the pros and cons of staying in Hong Kong after 1997,It can't be an easy job. Few cities in the wodd are as blown around by market forces as Hong Kong is. Commercial rents

tor is quoted as saying it was "unfathomable " that China would jeopardise its heightened economic role on the wodd stage by interfering with Hong Kong's international media. Maybe.

have weakened over the past two years

an)'way. You don't have to have your

,

that shouldgo downonthepro side of the ledger - except that some people believe they are quite likely to soar back to their ridiculous heights of the eady Nineties. For the larger operations, a 10 per cent increase in the rent can add hundreds ofthousands of so

dollars to the monthly bills. Tot that up into ayear's worth, and it could make the difference between profit and loss.

At long last, the government seems to have caught up with the implications of changes in telecom-

munications. It may never understand the needs of STAR TV and \ùØharf Cable, but at least some helpful soul seems to have explained that cyberspace is not crown land. Singapore has got a head start in terms of

But, inthe end,

itmightnotmatter

editorial operation in the place you publish. Just look at Singaporc's Tbe Straíts Times and Business Times, which have an electronic sub-editing opefation in Sydney. Journalists there

work on pages on screens linkecl di rectly to the Singapore head office.

But, for publications that are distributed around the region and beyond, there are other considerations.

These include whether there are sufficient aidine flights to get the maga-

zines to the readers in a prompt fashion (if they are not printed by satellite), as well as how far the publications will have to travel. Bean-

counters normally say

it is still

cheaper to air-mail tens of thousands

of copies than to beam the product up to a satellite, but that only holds

THE CORRf,SPoI\IIIENI September 1995

WIPS:

-

tainly isn't cheap to fly palette-loads

of

magazines from there

to Kuala

Lumpur.

Take all these factors, put them in

n informative and thought-provoking schedule ofspeakers and workshops had the WIPS membership coming back for morc in 1994/ 1995. Tlre committee members will be kept busy again this year with the formulation of a whole new series of speakers and topics of interest to all in the industry.

Speakers: September 'P4: Legislative Councillor, Christine Loh talked about her fight for legislation to allow indigenous women of the New Territories to in-

the possibilities and freedom of speech

for journalists after 1997.

Workshops: December '94'. Freelancing in Hong Kong, Julia lØilkinson, freelancer, and Leslie Burt, Asian A&M publisher, looked at different aspects of the freelancer's role.

February 95: Choosing a Home Computer, Cathy Hillborn, Far Eastern Economic Reuíeut and Simon Piff, NewsNET Asia, discussed on-line systems and setting up a home office.

March : Freelance/W'orking Mothers panel, the logistics, the challenges

a blender, and what do you get? Hong Kong, of collrse. But I'm prepared to wagerthat, forall that, somepublishers will calculate that staying here to see

herit land.

nomic Reuieu.t

and the benefits of incorporating a child into a working life.

April: Self-Publishing, Rebecca

what the Chinese do is simpb'notworth the risk. Relocate at leisure, not with a closure order on your mat, is probably their attitude . Anybody got any thoughts on who will be the first to go?

November: Maggie Kwong, senior tax manager of Pannell Kerr Forster,

Baftlett and Jane ìùlzithey are all WIPS

aa.a

'With a bit of luck, next monrh's Tbe Corresþondent wlll have a report on the state of play at Asia Times, which is scheduled to be launched in Bangkok in November. Dummies have been spotted and the word is that it looks very smart. But, withollt pfejudging what may be said in next month's piece, you have to wonder if there is room for another region-wide business daily, even if the backers are saying that

tlre Times is not designed to go up against fll;e Asiøn Wall Street Journal.

At least there's reason to believe they will get the marketing right. After all, it's staffed by the team that gave us the Eøstern Exþress. Surely they clon't want to go through that toment again.

And, for many of them, theAsian Times must be the last stop before retuming to tlre Seøltle Post Intelligencer or Soutlc Slcielcls Gazelte or

whatever. g3

October 4th: BirthdayParty, guest speaker Nuri Y ittachi, F ar E ø s te rn E co -

Bradley, Debra Maynard, Frances

members who have published their own projects. They discussed the procedures from their own points of view.

June: Negotiating salaries and free-

lance rates. Panelists Brian Renwick, Hongkong Bank; David Armstrong,

Soutb Cbinø Morníng Post; Raka Dewan, Pace Interior Arcbítecturøl Magøzine gave useful tips on negotiating salaries and freelance rates.

COMING EYENTS: October tùñPS birthday party at the Ladies' Recrea-

tion Club, 6.30pm. Members

2526 0206. November: Portfolios from WIPS photographers and illustrators.

Elections to the WIPS committee and members' suggestions for the coming year. December, Techniques forlnter-

viewing in print journalism.

discussed accounting tips.

December: Kay Halsey, TIME Life Asia; Stefan Cucos, The Guidebook Corn-

pany; Shadow'Wong, OUP; and Flizabeth Redfem of Longman Asia Business and Professional (now Pearson Profes sional) talked about the differences in book publishing in Hong Kong.

February 95 : Sarah Fraser of CNBC Asia discussed how to deal with the press and how to be interviewed.

March: Kim Silver, writer andpublisher; Edward Summerson, MD ofAsia

Publishers Services, and Magnus Bartlett, publisher, The Guidebook Company discussed the intricacies of

$300,

non-members $330. Call Polly Yu on

sff

BY ARTHUR HACKER

TH E ZOO SINGAPORE CUSTOAAS r.ro >xÙOS

No GUN5-NO HAI R

I CAN,T WAIT TO GET TO THE BOTTOAA, Otr THIS ONE/

NO CHEWINO,OUT\A

IT,S ONLY ,/ GUA^ c.H UAA

book distribution in Hong Kong.

April: Frances Bartlett, Roundhouse Publications (Asia) Ltd, talked

about her experience marketing Maca.u on ø Pløte.

May: Ann Beatty, art director and illustrator, discussed aspects of illustration and illustrators.

July: Ron Knowles, political commetftatot fot E as te rn E xpr e s s discussed September 1995 TEE

CORRXSP0IIDDIì|T

(Yo - Yo)

World-famous classical cellist Yo Yo Ma probably spends more time on the road than at home. While on tour, he might stay in a converted monastry in Fïorence one day, and a HongKong hig'h

rise the next. Although he

can't take his grand piano with him, there are two things he never leaves home withoul One is his 2S0-yearold

Stradivarius cello. The other is his

IBM ThinkPad 755C. The cello gets its own seat on the plane. But it's the keys of his ThinkPad that keep his

fingers nimble on those long flights.

The IBM ThinkPad 755C:

. Intel 486 DX4/75 MHz nith integrated math co-processor

' 4MB standard memory expandable to 36 Mts ' VESA Local Bw and Windows Accelerator technologt . Remot,oble hard dish 340M8 to BL1MB . Utra large 10.4" Thin Film Transßtor (TFT) Actiue LCD Dßplay ' IBM unique "pop-up" keyboard design'IBM TrachPoint integratecl pressure-sensitiue pointing deuice ' 'fwo Type II or One Type III PCMCIA cards 'EPA Energlt Star clesignotion' Integroted Audio support

------

For more information, fax your business card to 2537 6601 and quote "ThinkPad 755C", or call 2825 7B7B

-I I

There is a difference

r I

-

" ---!--It-6

IBM ¡s a registered trademark and There ¡s a difference is lrademark of lnternational Busines Machines Corporalion O'1995 lBl\4 Corporation

-

il

--II IT-

-

_T

for tI (Hong 7T"r"

I(ong

w-....---r.)r

arr

FCCSEPT MCl

wines moy be ordered from the

Club, billed to your occount ond delivered lo on oddress of your choice. Only whole cqses/ of twelve

only.)

rritories

ion Mixed Cose ($995 per cose) of greoter-demondJhon-expected some substitury in which cose the volue will be mointoined or soid, the red selection is two eoch of Chionti

AC

moy be ordered

under this scheme.

Borbero del Monferrqto. The whites ore two eoch of 1993 Verdicchio ond Bionco di Pinot plus Chordonnoy

To ploce on order pleose send or

dell Umbrio 1994.

Fox (28óB 4092|rthis completed form to the Club

FCCSEPT

$AVE l'm beoring-in-mind thot when you octuolly

W

Vernoccio di Son Gimignono,l994.$ó0.($220 per cose) Vernoccio is the grope, Tuscony is the region. Just South West of Firenze to be exoct. Dry, fresh ond crisp; iolly good volue too.

get this offer the weother should hove turned into o series of beoutiful sunny doys

ond light evenings; os I write this, the

FCCSEPT RI

B

signol is hoisted ond it is precipitoting with o will, it's Augustl2th qnd there's nothing

glorious obout it. I om cheered however by the thought of this ltolion collection,

I

hope you enioy it. Cheers.

Wine

Ref.

Chiqnti Clossico, lsossi, 1992, $80. ($9ó0 per cose) Melini, Tuscony, ltoly.

The grope with the most influence on Chionti is the Songiovese, recent chonges in the low permit Cqbernel Souvignon to be odded, I think this is o greot benefit. There is olso q benefit in the foct thot lhe low now permits ond enforces the rule thot only wine produced in the originol oreq moy use the term 'Chionli Clossico'

Tel.No

FCCSEPT MCl

No of

Cases

Total Price $

FCCSEPT W1

No of

Cases

Total Price $

FCCSEPT

No of

Cases

Total Price $ Full order value: $

Full address for delivery:

Signature:

...Jl

I-l

u.ry now andagain,I f,ind myself in the company of teenagers

situation from which I try to extricate myself with what may truthfully be called indecent haste . It's not simply a generation gap. No, I am convinced that the young and me, we are from different wodds.

Since the publication of the previous The Corresþondent, I have been teased by some ever-growing andfartoocon-fi dent-for-my-liking offspring of contemporary acquaintances. My penchant for facialhatr is thought eccentric; my taste in headgear simplyweird.

I hold firm that, like a decent Vermouth, whiskers and a proper Panama are acceptable . . . any time, any place, The cause of thi.s recent onslaught

Strhy this one? And only this one?

Well, for one thing, they serve lager.

And another, they do a jolly good pizza. Not a lot of people know that.

On to other, adult, matters. During my time at sea (the Mercantile Marine, youknow), I experienced afair amount of inclement weather. Oh, yes, I've been through the Bay of Biscay in a rising Force 9 and across the English Channelwith a lumpy Force 11; you ask my

mate, Willy,

in

ket ice-fog; now that

endipity. Finding an exciting article in the July edition of tll,e Accounting Posl wasn't

among other things.

a

was creepy.

I

young, admit to visiting one of his Hong Kong outlets. Oh, I'm not without a sense of adventure, you know. I refer to the Fleet Arcade branch at

making of bird cages, incense, clogs, bean-

Discovering that exhitrition was surely

this, I expect some immediate sympathy from the bulk of FCC Membership.

Apparentþ no one, absolutely no one, refers to the group that was supposedly founded by a (whiskered and hat-wearing?) Colonel Saunders as Kentucþ Fried Chicken. It is, in keeping with its fast-food status, no doubt, sim-

I stand corrected; apþalled, but coffected. I am, as is well known, not a fan of clown Ronald's anaemic yersion of the hamburger, but I will, for the sake of credibility among the

seum staffls efforts.

If you're in Tsim Sha Tsui, do yourself a favour and go and see this remarkable and unique display of most of Hong Kong's traditionaltrades and crafts. Visitors will effortlessly leam of aratge of activities, including the

slow crawl into Cape Town on a Christmas Day moming in blan-

But this recent

rùt¡ell,

lating advertising. The boring ad in HK magazine is an insult to the mu-

curd and a guqin,

land-boundwindthing

McDonalds in th.e area. Not the measly 50 that I referred to.

because of the appalling lack of stimu-

mouth, he was there.

I also recall a:øery

their far-from-humble opinion, committed grievous errors in print. On

And another thing. Apparently everybody, absolutely everybody, knows that there's now over 80

wonderful display is not done justice

.W.ey-

of critical utterance is that I have, in

Fenwick Pier.

TtrD GoRRDSPoNI¡DNT September 1995

-

a

ply KFC.

FCC No

RI

Club rrraaaa:g,erJettrro I-ee-l\zfatrone)r is being rnocked b5. ttre ¡zoung- Elut he finds solace in sorne \zery old a-drzice-

an)'vvhere.

Wines by the case delivered to you Name

Whiskers, burgers ared abottle of wine

true example of ser-

serendipitous at all, be-

reallyhadmespooked. just didn'tknowwhatto expect. Oh,

cause

it was sent to me, by a wine

the FCC's old China Hands poohpoohedthe entire event, which didn't actuallyhelp, especiallywhenthe chef told me the Typhoon Menu was in

merchant. Tlre Accounting Post, you understand, is not on my regular reading list.

Two full pages are given over to

effect and Gilbert told me that all (well

the good news that wine is "man's oldest medicine". Hippocrates and

nearþ all) the staff were going home.

Now it's all behind us, thank goodI am greatly relieved that I still haven't experienced a Typhoon; a Severe Tropical Storm is quite enough, thankyou.

One daywhen itwas raining - no, I'm not still going on about a storm calledHelen- I got caught inKowloon Park. So I sought shelter in the Hong Kong Museum of History. I'ye mentioned this museum before. It's fascinating, addictive and painlessly timeconsuming.

'What a surprise. Even more to delight and inform us. Until the end of September, there is an extra attraction entitled, "Of Hearts & Hands". This ness.

Galen both prescdbed wine in various formulations and you don't get better references than that. They prescribed it to sterilise water (dangerous stuff, water), as an appetite stimulant and an anti-nauseant. It was also used as an

ingredient in poultices. 'Well, they couldn't get it right all the time.

This is fantastic news. Dri¡k wine and live longer. A major Danish medical study has found that it's beneficial to drink the equivalent of a bottle of

wine a day. lt is claimed that while increasing longevity, it can also reduce your weight.

I'm going on a diet.

September 1995 TEE

E@

CORRXSP0NDDNT

.

RKELLIIUG

Wl^lD

St

RFIIVG

-

PARASAILIIVG

'

JE-|-

Sr<lllvG

Bunkered? Try Guam

i

stretuL"J to the li-it,

If you're looking for nevz golfing and spectactt|]ar col.lrses ckrallenges tfien ckreck out lVIicronesia. iFkren ).ou can corne l>ack and tell e\zeryolte at ttre l>ar vrztrat arÍr e><pel:t )zou are o1a .Asia's latest golfing destination

t ÐIVIIOOHS

.

ÐNlOrlJfSuOH

.

J-lO5'

SrJlìOI

ufIdOCl-lfl{

Gtlur.r will tri.rg out the test in you, stretcLing your imagination u.rJ ,ld1lr. On a Paci{i" ItluttJ purtJir" yon'll {ittJ

the courage to try new sports, tLe Jeterrnination to improve at those yot

Lto-. Or

sitttply relax, enjoying the ,t.n unJ th"

o""rrr br""""r.

Fly Jit""t to Guarn in just {ort Lorrr, venturing t"yonJ A"ir to the Paci{ic. To a spolting anJ recreational playgrounJ. No visa req.rir"J {or Hong Kong passpo.t holJ"r.. Crll th" Guam Visitors Bureau Setbision Bisitan Guahan

ñ

6rÆl

1321 Central Bu¡lding 1 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong

Gua- Visitors Bure.u on25221386 or [u"2522 0772.

GT'AIVI AJ'.rt'..

A P"ci{ic I.l.rJ

'Tf ried all the decent courses in I m^ilunO'l Done Malaysia'l The Philippines too hot for golf, except at eight in the morning or when there's Cadsbergwagon on hand? Thenwhy not try Guam? The climate is excellent, the golf is good and it's not as far away as you think. a

Guam is just coming into its dry season, which runs from November to May. The skies are clear, the air is dry and

the average temperattre is 27 degrees.

Just pedect. They take their game fairly

Tee tinxe

in Mìcronesia.

seriouslydownthere, so you'll improve your chances of getting a game if you takeyourhandicap cardwithyou. Some clubs won't let you on without it.

But once you',fe on the first tee, you're all set for some of the most challenging golf anywhere. Not dispiritingly difficult, but awesome in terms of the scenery. It's hard to ttrink of anywhere

tents andpurposes, the militaryones are

that offers courses framed in such grandeur as Guam's.

There are three kinds of courses: public, pril¡ate and military. To all in-

Country Club and Talofofo Golf Resort.

Each course has its own special charac-

out of bounds,

as

you need to know

someone in uniform to get on them. The public ones include the IíindwardHills

Country Club, the Country Club of the Pacific and Guam Intemational Country Club. Among the private clubs are

Hatsuho Intemational Country Club, Mangilao Golf Club, teo Palace Resort

ter and appeal, allowing players to choose according to their tastes.

September 1995

TE.Ê CORRXSP0IIDDI{T

One of the attractions of golf in

wind. "Damn, I thought a nine would

Guam is that the corrrses are rarelybusy enough to cause back-ups on the fairways. But try to time your visit to avoid

have been enough " has been uttered so often onthe tee that it should be the club

Sundays;

like courses

everywhere,

Guam's are congested then - and more expensive.

Golfing holidays, as such, do not exist out of Hong Kong. But many Guam hotels make up for that by making teeoff reservations for you and providing a car to take you to the club. Particularþ recommended, say regular visitors, is the HyattRegency, which offers a special package for golf enthusiasts. Called "Fun in the Sun" - that was definitely coined by a non-golfer - it includes three nights of Deluxe-class ocean-front ac-

motto.

Strictly notfor beginners (or honeymooners anxious to get back to their hotel) is the Leo Palace Resort Country Club. It covers 5.2 million square metres, and occupies 100th of the island's landmass. OfßciallyopenedinJuly 1993,

commodation, with a da'Jy

buffet breakfast, 18 rounds of championship golf with roundtrip transfers.

Costs vary from club to club, but not bymuch. In the

high season, green fees are in the US$110 to US$130 range, usuallyincluding cart (caddies are very rare) and sometimes transfer. Clubs will cost betweenus$ 20 and US$30.

Everybody has his favourite

- meaning worst - hole in Guam. Respected even by profes sionals is the 13th at the Mangjlao

Golf Club. Thispar-five, 44&yatd sffetch of torment is built along the coast. It has a narrow farrway that, if your touch has gone, looks Tbere's lots nxore tban just golf. about as wide as a tennis colut.

Seven bunkers around the green ate the course has a total of 27 holes. A waiting to feduce you to teafs. further 45 holes, designed and built by The oceanweaves in and out of the Jack Nicklaus and Amold Palmer, are corrse, making some greens virfually planned. Palmer was also responsible islands. Make sure you have plenty of for the club's C and D courses. spare balls.

Particulady diffrctilt holes are the At the other end of the scale is the No. 3 on coruse C and No. 2 on D. In W.indwardHills Country Club, a munici- both cases, you have to play over gullies, pal course much favoured by beginners with a whimsical wind making things and, apparently, visiting Japanese hon- that little bit more interesting. eymoon couples.'Windward Hills is not The Talofofo Golf Resort took an short 6,425 yañs so the honey- unorthodox approach to design. Nine mooners should save some energy for of the wodd's top senior players were golf if they plan to play the full corrse. given two holes each. Construction costs The 59Gyard fifth is a favourite of long amounred to us$200, 000 which may hitters, as it is fairly generous in width. explain why membership will set you The par-three I 5th is only 100 yards and back US$180,000. Mind you, rhat's not Iooks like a g¡veaway. But it's not. Most expensive byFanling standards, andyou of the year, players are hitting into the do get three roundtrip airline tickets a TEE GORRESPOIII|¡DNT Septemtrer 1995

year, plus accommodation. Ifyou're go ing in as a visitor, green fees are $130

weekdays, US$ 170 weekends.

T}ire I56yarc1, par-three 16th is the most discussed hole in the 19th. The drops and climbs, an OB that threatens all the way and blusterywinds can break a strong man's will. As can the par-five, 531-yañ 18th. The five sand traps defending the green seem as broad as Wembleyfootballpitch. Special piquancy is given to this

hole by the fact that it's within fi.rll view of the barin the club house.

There's plentyto choose

from when planning a golf holidayin Guam. If there's a criticism, it's that some of the clubs tend to over-focus on Japanese visitors. Most course grrides are n Japanese only, whichhas resulted in some flights teeing offin completely the wrong direction. Slow play would be a problem if the corrrses were busier. Butyon don't have to limit your holiclay to golf. Guam offers superb outdoor activities.

Scuba diving sites are among the best inAsia, withwater as clear as Watson's. There's also excellent surfi ng, game fi shing, trekking and

S 6

I s

pony riding. The shopping isn't verygood,

that's one less thing to have to worqz about.

Use taxis as little as possible.

You could buy a small Toyota for the costof some ofthe trips. Tryto take in some ofthe historical sites, particularþ Plaza de Espana. This was the seat of the colonial Spanish goveffìment ftom1669. The structufes include the Spanish Walls, the Guam Museum, the Chocolate House and the exotically named Tool Shed.

Guam, like any self-respecting torrist destination, has its lovers'leap rock.

Puntan dos Amantes was, according to legend, where a Chamorro boy and girl leapt to their deaths after their families

crer¿ttc-c-l ;l tìc'\\. t1'pe of ti-¿ì\'e lle r-: sc)fl-rc'(¡nc lrtl:Ic> clc>csn'L \\.21r ìt t<> Édc) \"rst clist:rnce s. but lr-hcr cl<>es \ni"-ir-ì{ tcr errjcrl' Ll¡c ¡>[c'.rsurcs

so

refused to let them marry. It offers splendid views of the central coast and hillsides.

Guam is anAmerican possession, so

you getAmerican-sty'le amenities - and American-style visa requirements. Check with the Guam Visitors Burca\ on2522 1386,flax2522 0772.

E@

<rf crlrisirrp3. tnong tlre most þoþuktrseøcruises in Asiø is PtO's Bøli Sea zu hicb run s from tlre þort of Benoø to tlce føbled. spice islands. The Bali Sea Dancer ìs øbeau-

D ctncer,

tifully fiXed uessel, utitb roomfor 14O

patssengers All publíc øreqs a.re ctþ-

þointed tuitb tradítionøI Inclonesian decoratiue ttccents. Meaß øre memorable local and international - inbotlt tuood-trimmed a sþacious, food

-

restaurønL

Ihere øre h.uo bctsíc Sea Dancer cruíses: the Íiue days ønd four nigbts, and tbe four døys ønd tbree nights.

Botlt go to Badas, tbe ca.þítal of West

Sumbatuø,ønd

to

Komod.o National Park on Kontodo Island. For the sborter cruíse, tlce d.e-

þørture is on a Friday. Passengers

Islarnic cultures. It is ofien described as "Bali beþre the tourists".

Bad,as, tbe Íirst þort of cøllfor botlt cruises, utas once tbe seøtoføpotuerful sulta.nate from tbe Soutb Celebes.Tbe trip takes in tlJe fortner utooden pa.l.a.ce

&re nlet øt tbe Bali Hotel late morning and transferred directly to tbe Bali Sea Dancer for an afternoon sailing. In tbe euenìng, tbe sbíþ's caþtøin bosts ø tu elcoming cocktøil þarty.

The longer cruíse leaues on aMonday and offers øll tbe same luxuries, plus, cr.t tbe end, a uisit to Lembør, on Lombok. A uarieþt of tours are auøil-

or ø nearby þicturesque uillage ønd local bull røces. Ihere are fascinøting insigbts ínto trad.itional Indonesian culture. Also auailabl.e: excellent diuing and snorkelling. (Diuers sltould note tbat tbey need full certificøtion beþre beíng allouted to join in Sea Dancer scuba actiuities.) Ihe sbíþ leøues Badas in tbe afiernoon, and a

able øt Iembør, wbiclt is bome to ct. unique blend of Hind.u Buddl¡ist a.nd

søec¡a.l euening's enterta.¡nment is prouided on boørd.

September 1995 TÃj,

CORRXSPONIIDNT

Next stoP, Kornodo Islønd' tbe

septicaemia. These beasts can be found only in the Komodo National Park, which is comprised of three small islands: Komodo, Padar and Rinca.

In order to fulfil an ambition to photograph these "land crocodiles"yet anothe r name, although not completely accurate as they can and do swim - I sought the assistance of Frontieres 56Travel, who had organised adventures for FCC members in be shøred bY

the past. The director, Corinne Risacher, was not immediately en-

øll uisitors'

Its scientific name

is

aa'ra'nus

thusiastic about my plan, but she set about the task with greatçxpertise A flight to Denpasar wasthe first leg, followed next day by an internal

flight, via Mataram, to Bima

on

Sumbawa in the Lesser Sundas Islands.

Awarm, comfortable night spent overlooking Lawatabe ch gave time to repack and check on the hire of a fishing boat to make the six-hour trip across

the Sape Strait ço Komodo Island Komodo rises out of the Flores Sea

like a real-life "island that time forgot", withamantle ofmistycloudthatmakes

it

diffrcult not to think that Steven

Spielberg must halre come here before

filming Jurassic Park.

If the tide is

P&O SPice Island Cruises "Now there's a sPectacJar new way to complete yorr- Brli holiJuy. TuL" u fascinating 3 €f 4 Ã,"y cruise to tLe magical *otlá L"yo.tå Buli ott P8O's Buli S"" Dancer.

Visit the ancient Kot,,oJo Dragfons or enjoy th" B.tff"l" r:aces on $..-Lu*., t"{o." retutningf to Bnli {rrlly t"fr"th"J." Fot *ot" Jetails contact you travel agent or

PtO Tlr"t"l Ph"n", 29566888 Fax: 29562698 Lice-ce No, 350 299

right, one can simply step ashore; if not, it's an insecure perch in afartoonarrow dugout The park warden can organise walks up to afenced bluffovedooking a popular feeding-spot, which is a safe wayto see some dragons. The trouble withthis is thatthe onlyviewis of the tops of heads and is, to me, similar to the pointless exercise oflooking down into a snake-pit of photographing in a zoo. Take this option and it would be

.

Yietnam and I¿os

In order to experience the real situation and to view the beasts in their stark, natural, envfuonment, one has to trek into the hintedand. It's a safari back into the Pleistocene era, truly a walk on the wild side Dragons ambush theirprey. They

Thailand Domestic cruises between Bangkok and Ko Samui 2-3 nights.

ßurma Cruise on the Irrawaddy.

lie immobile in the rocks, under shrubs

and even

in the lower

branches of

Coast of China

trees. Itpays to keep one's eyes peeled

and remain alefi at all times This harsh, remote ateais an ideal habitat for the dragons, as there is a supply of wild horses, deer, pigs, feral buffaloes andrats. Poisonous snakes, of which there are many, are most helpful in killing numerous small animals, which are then eatenand/or finishedoffby the meandering reptiles.

30 PeoPle.

Diving can be arranged.

Cruise in the mouth of the Mekong Delta.

and steaming towards civilisation in about four hours

Coastal shipping overnight(s) to F¡rst-uorld luxury in tbe trad¡tional lreart

Xiamen, Shanghai, etc. Although not luxurious, the standard is

of Asia.

reasonable.

InÍormation prouided tbø.nhs to Concorde Tra.uel Tel: 2526-3391

It is recorded that they prey on morethan 13 species, butnothingpreys

DISTAI{T SHORES Panam;aCanal Ft. Lauderdale to LA via G¡and

on the dragon except the creature itself. The estimated population of 5,000 is reckoned to be fairly safe because, as well as being a protected

Cayman, Acapulco and more.

Holland .America Line. ìüestern and Chinese New Years, 14 days (from US$3,775)

species, there are hard plates under the skinwhichmakes itimpossible to cure.

Spending the night on the island is an experience that I canbest describe as "hopefullyunique". The absence of

water, power andwaste disposal makes for a less-than-restful slumber, particu-

larþ when one is ulrsure as to the

breeding season in July/,{ugust, with the female layrng a maximum of 30 eggs. The eggs are laid approximately 12 inches under ground and hatch the

following April.

the 9August L895 and disappeared on

this island the 18July t974".

A trip to this part of the wodd is a fabulous experience, but prior to any undertaking, do be absolutelysure that you carry the correct equipment and are prepared to exist for awhile without hot and cold running staff.

171,000 square hectares inits entirety, with the highest point just 735 metres

The newly-boÍr are immediately under pressure to suryive. They must seek food, sustenance and comfort while avoiding becoming cannibal fodder.

The question is always raised: Do they eat people? The answer is, most assuredly, probably. The local fishermen have lost children and old folk.

The reptiles obviousþ do not take kindly to humans in close proximity. There is

above sea level.

a simple plaque ori Komodo which

pick-up from major hotels in the Sanur, Kuta

reads "In Memory of Baron Rudolf von Reding Biberegg, bom in Switzedand

and Nusa Dua areas. P&O: Tel2956 6888

identity, nature or feeding habits of one's bed-fellows.

There is wonder in sharing the sunrise with the limited variety of flora (about 102 species) andfattna (about 185 species) which struggle for daily survival in this hot and ungenerous savanna. The National Park

January September 1995

LOCAL SHORES Palawanl, Philippines Discovery Cruises, 3/6 ntgþts,

possible to be back aboardyour vessel

is only

The (very) rainy season is from

T

Other Cruise Options

to April, and the dragons'

Eæ B¿li

Dancér cruises cost between US995 (Deluxe) and US$450 (Inside) for the threeSea

French Polynesla Starts Papeete. Windstar Cruises

Feb 17, Chinese NewYear, 7 days (from US$2,720)

Cartbbear¡ Camival Line. Starts Miami 31 March, Easter, 12 days

(from US$65o) Eastern Mediterr¿nean

to US$600 (Inside). These þrices are per per-

Holland America Line Athens to Rome visiting Turkish, Greek and Italian Ports, 22May, 12 days

son on a twin-share tlasis. The fare-coves the

(from US$ 4,3OO)

daycruise. Theflveday-llip goes fromUS$ 1,370

cost of the cn¡ise and all meals on boiird, plus

Frontie¡es

56

:Tel2í21 O57l I

InÍonnation þrouided tbanks to Traaelux Ltd. Tel: 2526 616J

Tf,E

CORRXSPOilIIDIIT

Slowly along the Yangzi Jatr.e trLa-rrr tra.s t>een crurising along one of China-'s grea-test lrzater:qza)¿s. And she recornrnends )rou try it too before the Ttrree Gorges darn ctra-nges erzerlrttring-

Ilraps a jacuzzi and a small gym will b e the extent of shipboard recreation.

But unlike an ocean cruise, where you need all the facilities of a floating resort to provide diversions while land is out of sight for long stretches of time, the Yangzi itself holds enough interest to satisfy all but the

most jaded souls.

Enjoy your floating observation post as you watch riverine life, the constantly changing foreground patch-

work of tiny "farms" clinging to the steep-sided banks and the all-absorbing grandeur of the majestic landscape

in the background.

Atypical cruise makes several stops at some of the most iriterestingvillages and towns along the way. 'Wherever the boat ties up, the river bank steps are usually lined with hawkers selling every'thing from embroidered baby's booties and hideous panda mats to local fruits and bottled water.

or the Daning river are the

\fru'r.

I when you travel

kilometres away.

along the Yangzi river.

Perhaps it's just as well that Richard Nixon neyer immorraUsed his

spending Yangzi tourists (many of whom are newly rich Chinese entre-

laden, brownwater of the Yangzi,tlJie tributaries are crystal clear. In the right

preneurs, by the way). There's a curiously royalist flavour to the deluxe

weather, it's an idyllic ride, drifting through a succession of small gorges, their rock faces alnost hidden by cur-

opinion o[ the Yangzi.

No doubt, just as he found the Great 'Wall

peaks and mist-swathed

valleys. The upp€r

"great", he would haye told the wodd that the Yangzi is "long". This

reaches of the riyer are steeped in tr aditioî, parf of China's cultural herit-

would have delighted

age since time immemorial. This is where the warriors of the Water Mar-

the Chinese , who usually refer to the

gin, the Three Kingdoms and other

Changjiang (literally, "long river").

epics fought their battles. Painters and

Stretching 6,300 kitometres from source to sea, it is China's longest river and third longest in the wodd, beaten

poets, even philosophers immortalised the Yangzi through the ages.

China has many natural wonders, but it's not hard to explain why the Y angzi capt;)res the imagination. Much more than a river, it is part of the fabric of Chinese heritage. Archaeologists tell us that people have been travelling along theYangzi for thousands of years, and the river is still one of China's major transport arteries for people and goods, which travel part or all of the 2,479 kilometres between Chongqing and

river simply and precisely

as

only by the Nile and the .lrmazon.

'Working cargo barges carryeyerything from coal to clothing on the river, although some say their days are numbered as road and rail provides cheaper transport alternatives. Some 50 working feny boats ply the Yangzi waters below Chongqing, their shabby paintwork making a poor show alongside the glamorous, new, deluxe vessels, which now total clos e to a dozen.

crops in China's grain basket in the vast

The idea of cruising tlre Yangzi for pleasure is recent, a71 part of China's post-Open Door tourism boom. Dur-

delta plain, which fans outward from

ingl994three companies emerged

Shanghai, where the river joins the ocean.

It's also a source of water to grow the

TEE coRRESPoNllDNr Septembe¡ 1995

as

riyer cruise business with Regal and Yictoria lines, recentþ joined by yet a third brand - East King and East Queen, managed by Holiday Inn. China Travel Service, companies likeAbercrombie and Kent, the Travel

Shop and others sell Yangzi cruises.

You can also contact the operators direct. The usual tourist route is between Chongqing and \ùf/uhan, although a few sailings may go as far as Shanghai. The trþ down-river takes four days, while it takes five days to go up-stream. Going against the current gives a far more vivid impression of the river's power - it's also sold at a discount as many tourists are short of time.

Forget all your received notions of cruising loueboat style: deluxe Yangzi boats carry fewer than 2OO passengers, and all have limited facilities because they must be small enough to negotiate rocks, whidpools, sandbanks, tricky currents and some \¡ery shallow water in the dry season. Night-time karaoke, maybe videos, a small plunge pool and per-

Yangzi remains largely inscrutable. Ifyou are going cruising, take algng a copy of IsabellaBird's book,

of the projected 200-metre rise in water level following completion of the Three Gorges Dam. Small wonder that eYeryone wants to know what lies ahead. The migration has alreadybegun andyou pass deserted villages along the way, every roof stripped of tiles, which have gone to be recycled in new homes as far away as Xinjiang.

Be sure to payyour respects to Qu

whichis still commemorated atDragon Boat time. Near the walled town of

stream

andonemythicalcharucters, inhabit the jagged

use to foretell the future, they have

never done such good business. The area is sparsely populated, but more than 1.3 million residents have been told that theywill be relocated ahe ad

Don't miss the opportunity to

usual options. By contrastwith the silt-

to mention a thousand

Even these dayswhen the river is in the news mor€ than ever, the

make a side excursiorl to one of the Yangzi's tributaries: the Shennong

contenders for the new wave of free-

Demons and heroes, not

The busiest people in every

Zigui there's a memorial hall ând

a

tains offerns andminiature asters. The

Ming dynastybronze statue ofthe hero.

Like everyone else in this stretch of the Yangzi, he's destined to be on the move before long.

As marketing managers ate ctaftily exploiting, Yangzi travel is gaining interestfrom the knowledge that

few

this landscape is slated for major

centimetres to a few metres, but every pebble is clearþvisible and so are the fish, for which sharp-eyed kingfishers

change oYer the next few decades.

The finance for the Three Gorges dam is reportedly still in doubt, but as your boat passes through the siteformation works on either side at Sandouping, the project akeady seems to have passed the point of no return. Higher water levels will presumably open new stretches of the river and its many tributaries to. new generatiolrs of tourists. But for the moment, the 193-kilometfe stfetch of the river between Fengjie and Yichang is undoubtedly the highlight of anyYangzi cruise . This is the section known as the Three Gorges: aeons ago, the river carved its way from the eastern Sichuan basin through the Wushan mountain. In the process it formed a steep-sided bed through which it still has to force its way in swift twists and turns.

The result forms one of the natLtral wonders of the world

water could be any depth from

a

skimanddive.

The boatman steers and mov€s the

tloat with

a

single oar. In calmstretches

of water lets his

he boat

drift on the current,while

he sings the songs his ancestorssangin timeimmemorial. The cliffs

provide natu-

d amplification as the melodiesecho

and fade in

time to the

A Bird's-eye vleur

Yangzi market town are the fortune tellers. No matter what method they

Yuatl^, a favourite patriotic poet, who drowned himself in 278B,C, an er¡ent

Hukou to the coast, 900

ncvcr alunc

creak of the oar and the occasional slurp of the bailer. Where will his descendants be singing, and what will the words be, in another 2O yearc?

Tbe Yøngzi Vølley and Beyond, published irr 1899. Your bed is cornfortable and dry, you live in air-conditioned comfort, dining three times a day on international food conjured out ofthe depths of the vessel.

You have no need to defy death with every breath. Your boat

is watertight and the captain is a veteran of more than 30 years of out-gue ssing the vagaries o ÎY angzi

sandbanks. \ùlhen it rains, you don't get wet unless you stand on

the observation deck. And at night yourboatis illuminated bya threestorey chandelier rather than a guttering oil lamp.

Without Mrs Bird's prompting, you might be tempted to over-

look the drama of Yangzi travel not

so long ago. Her experiences are as vivid on the page as though

they were penned only yesterday.

You need her to remind you that your four- or five-day jaunt took her 10 days down-stream and 3O or more up-stream, with teams of trackers pulling the boat and manoeuvring itaway from the rocþ

river banks and the mid-stream hazards. Still todayyou may occa-

sionally encounter the last of the trackers, but their perilous paths, carved high on the rock face above the water, remain as a lasting reminder of countless lives lost on the river over the centuries. 'W'ill they still be visible once the water level rises?

Eæ September

1995

THE G0RIXSPOIIII¡H|T

Electronic rights: the next frontier for writefs E><perts belierze tlaat online rnedia_ is .wzriters a-re onl¡r rareLy recei.rzing thei is jr-rst too difficr-rlt to kee¡2 track of o laarnes in the lpay roya1ties- l1-o rectifiz the situation, so111e of the "l>est-selling" l>usirress a-nd the teading qzriter's <>rgarrisations in ttre rrS trante bamded togettrer- lfkreir airtrr: to sirnp lify payrlre:ntp for online rneclia rights a-nd to l2rorride quick access to electrolic, filrn an'd f<>reign rigtrtskrolders' host of influential authors and agents have joined the Authors Guild, the American Society of Joumalists & Authors, Association of Authors'

R€presentatives, and the Dramatists Guild in forming an organisation that does for writers and copyright holders what ASCAP does for the music wodd.

The neworganisation, TheAuthors Registry, Inc , provides a central directory of authors and will provide a simple accounting system for paying royalties to registered authors.

"It's an ideawhose timehas come," saidAuthors Guild President Ma4' Pope Osbome. "If the tnformation Age is ro live up to its potential, then we have to provide a means to simplify and accurately reward authors for the use of their works, no mátterw.hatthe medium. The Regist4"s royaþ payment setvice does that, whle The Registry's directory allows prospective rights buyers reàdy access to authors and their agents."

asked Georges Borchardt' "There are so many things that can go wrong ' Agents have been long concemed that the process of tracking an agent for a work can be so burdensome."

The Registry's database will be

managed by Courier New Media, Inc',

a subsidiary of the Courier Corpora-

.

"Publishers are seeking to puttheir magazines on databases or otherwise re-use material from their magazines in electronic form have been telling us

that sharing the Proceeds on a Perretrieval basis isn'tpractical since they would have to pay hundreds ofwriters small amounts of moneY," said Au-

\úzriters disagree

thors Guild Vice President and bestselling novelist Scott Turow. "The

at>ourt jtrst

Registry's royalty accounting and payment service lifts that burden from the

erzerything, t>ut tlre¡z all agree tÏr:at ttreir

szork belongs

"Publishers have toldme theywant this service," said the ASJA's Janice

Hopkins Tanne . " It will solve their problem ofpayingwriters forelectfonic uses. " .We had to come up with a better way for foreign publishers, movie producers, and electronic media developefs to reach authors and their agents," Ms Osbome said. "Now, instead of calling a publisher and waiting for a response from an overburdened staff, The Registry's comprehensive directorywill provide callers with the name of an author's agent or a contact address." "\ühy should someone wanting to acquire film rights to a book have to be bounced from the paperback publisher to the hardcoverpublisherto the agent?"

the Dramatists Guild's 6,500 authors will be the first listed with Courier in the Registry's directory.

to therntion of

Lowell, Massachusetts' Indi-

vidual authors will be charged a registration fee, but agents and otganisa-

tions electronically registering 100 writers or artists will be able to enrol

their clients andmembers atno charge for the next 30 days Agencies reprethan 100 authors are submit their lists colbershiP in a founding not required for regis-

tration. The Authors Guild's 7,000 authors, the ASJA'S 1,000 authors, and

publisher" "This is a godsend for the freelance writer, " added the ASJA's Tanne.

"If on-line distribution ofwriters' works going to become a significantpaftof the publishing industry, then we're is

entitled to an equitable share of the revenue from that ttse of our work.

This allows magazines to do that."

CD-ROMpublishers, who oftenhave

many rightsholders to pay, will find the same advantages in The Registry's royalty payment system. "The model holds well with multimedia publishers," ex-

plained author George "Adam Smith" Goodman. "By permitting these putl Iishers to pay on an advance-and-royaþ basis, without the burden of detailed book-keeping, it allows them to lower their risk, which is the whole point of

collectiye licensing organization for photocopying, to ensrrre compatibility with the CC's system. "We view the creation of The Authors Registry as highly promising," said CC President Joseph

in

S.

Allen.

any way

"'W'e are

readyto assist it the

we can to promote

licensing ofphotocopy and other rights. " Adds the Authors Guild Osboume: "Un-

authorised photocopying of books and magazines seems harmless, until you reahze the scale of the infrìngement," said Osbome. "Reasonable estimates place the rerrenue lost to illegal photo copying at US$ 1 billion to US$2 billion a year in the US alone . At a time when an increasing number of freelance writers are finding that this caleet no longer pays a living wage, we carìnot afford to continue to ignore that lost income." "'W'e've all known for some time that the electronic wodd was creating new challenges and dangers for

those who care about intellectual property rights, " noted authorJames Gleick. "The Registry is our way of turning the power of new technologies to good use . I think it's going to show that it's possible, with some good will on all sides, to create new ways of not just guarding intellectual property rights, but putting them to work."

Adds best-seller Garison Keillor: "The Registry is the biggest thing since

the invention of the copyright. Writers disagree about eyerything else, but we all agree thatyourworkbelongs to you. Until you can programme com-

puters to write books and articles and stories, you haye to pay writers for the use of their work. That's what The Registry is for."

Dramatists Guild President Peter Stone belieyes "this is a tremendous opportunity for dramatists to protect their nondramatic work and to fi.rrther protect their rights in their dramatic productions." NoteswriterGaelGreene: "This is a move that will lift the burden from writers forced to waste precious

The Correspondent is happy to give space to photographer members looking for a forum for their work. So if you've got a portfolio that you think would interest other members,

why not give it an airing?

To start with, drop a note in The Correspondent's mail box, addressed to the editor. lf you make at least 50 per cent of your income from photography, we'll be happy to consider showcasing your finest.

I

è

\ñ' I

writing time pursuing royalties from

e

copyright use and abuse . Publishers and extra-rights users should appteciate a

è È

royalty-based payments from the putr lishers' perspective. The industryshottld

newtoolforeffrciency." s]l

sq

welcome it."

This a¡ticle was reprinted coultesy of the Ameri-

The Registry will also focus on Llnauthorised photocopying of copyrighted materials and plans to work with the Copyright Clearance Center, the US

È

can Society ofJoumalists

&Authors This

s o

ñ

is the

=

fìrst in an occasional series on the new publish-

è

ing industry.

R

gS

September

1995

THE CORRf,SPOI\IIIEIIT

FCC leaps

into

Press R.elations

cyberspace

CanOn 10/F.,

Canon Hongkong Tlading Co., Ltd.

Mirror Tower,6l Mody Rd., Kowloon, Hong Kong

7/E Swire House, 9 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong

Services/Products:

Address:2'1lF,, Cornwall House, Talkoo Place,979 King's Rd., Quarry Bay, Hong Kong

Manager

aa members will soon be of,f,ered a discount Internet corìnection package, thanks to moves by Presi-

the file to the electronic mail and press the send key. That's it. As sim-

dent Hans Vriens, with the support of the FCC's Professional Committee. The FCC has registered the domain name

will shortly offer members

a package

including installation disks that have the latest in e-mail, V7oddwide Web browsers, and News group reading features pre-con-fi.gured for ease of use.

FCC members

willhaye onlytofill

out a form, to receiye disks, a password and an e-mail address the following day. That will put them straight on the Net. Hans Vriens's e-mail address, for example, will be "Hvriens@fcc.org".

Members will be able to log on to

the Net using the computers in the workroom, or from their own computer and modem at home or office.

Search Capability The research capabilities of the Internet are remarkable. For example, television anchor and FCC Journalist MemberMarkDailey, of TVB, who got an Internet account following a story he did about the Net a few months ago, downloaded the full text of Governor Chris Patten's recent speeches from the GIS site on the Net, printed them out and took them along to an interview with the goYernor.

Dailey astonishing the governor's personal advisor, Edward Llewellyn, who had written the speech only 48 hours before. " Where didyou get that?" he asked in disbelief. "From the Net," replied Dailey with a smile . "Edward didn't even know that GIS was putting the governor's speeches on the net," says Dailey. "The governor had only delivered that speech the day before at the San Franscisco Press Club."

Kwan

2747 5214

Chan

2565 2008

Wong

2565 2007

Ms Louise

lnternational

Stoyle

2747 5393

Nadia

Servi ces/Products: Hong Kong-based internati0nal alrline

ware he has that he is sure the newspaper can read. Then he "attaches"

E I.

.FCC.ORG'with the appropriate USbased registration organisation, and

Mr Albert

Executive

C F.

Manager Corporate Commun jcation

Sole Distributor : J0S Consumer Electronics

Product lVarketing

Communicatlon

ManagerCorporate

Canon cameras and video camcorders

Senior

C.rrHnv Pncrnc

ple Club þresident Hans Vriens in tl:e utorkroom.

"The other way that I use the Net, " says Dailey, "is just to get basic research. We justfinished doing something on poYerty in Hong Kong, and

eating disorders. What it does is rea trip to the library, and you can do it late at night, and anytime you want it. It's actually better than a library. You're getting your information from around the wodd." place

Photographer Dayid Mclntyre used Netscape, the most popular Woddwide Web "browser", to search for information on the United Nations

FourthVodd Conference OnVomen, in Beijing. Using the Info Seek search engine, Mclntyre typed in the words "UN Women's Conference". In seconds, a numtrer of "hypertext" links appearcd, one of which was the one he wanted. He simply clicked on the appropriate one, and the "'Web Page" appearcd. If Mr Mclntyre had wanted to, he could have saved all the text in a file, and printed it out. "You can get all the information you need from the Net," he says. "You don't evenneed to use the phone."

Electronic Mail Of immediate interest to foreign correspondents is the speed and low cost of electronic mail. For example,

as that.

Another e-mail advantage for editors is to offer their correspondents around the region and the wodd an easy, inexpensive way to file stories.

Instead of re-typing in faxed and written feports, the recipient of e-mail simply saves the e-mail to the hard drive, and then imports it into a text editor for ammendments, and finally page layout.

38/F )ffice Tower, Convention Plaza,

News Groups

with the latest in conversation on any number of wodd topics, and gather opinions, quotes, and get a feel for what's going on by using the "news groups" function of the internet.

One interesting news group is FCC members can keep up

Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong

1

Cheung Nigel Lilburn

Local lnternational

William

2584 4294 2584 44Bg

Olfices in: Amsterdam, Athens, Bangkok, Barcelona, Buenos Aires, Chicago, Dallas, Dubai, Frankfurt, Guangzhou, Ho Chi Minh City, lstanbul, Jakada, London, Los Angeles, Mexico City, lVliami, Milan, lVìoscow, Nagoya, New York, 0saka, Panama City, Paris, Santiag0, Seoul, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Singapore, Stockholm, Sydney, Taipei, Tianjin, Tokyo, Toronto, Vancouver, Vienna, Warsaw, Zurich.

KROLL ASSOCIATES (ASIA) LIMITED 90 1 -91 1 Mount Parlcer House, I I

Tel 2884 77BB Fax. 2568 8505 Managing Director Associate Managing Director

Marketing

hotel to stay in when visiting Hanoi.

Readers and subscribers to these news

groups answer these bulletin boardstyle queries out ofa sense ofhelping, and since the field is global, the responses are better than those evoked by a classified ad in any newspaper, and best of all, they're free.

Another interesting news group is called "hk.politics" in which people discuss political topics of interest to Hong Kong. There's also "hk.forsale", "hk.seminars" and lots of other useful

InternationaL RislcManagement Consuhants Itúernationa I C orp orate Inves ti gat ors Wordwide B us iness Inte

I

li

the correspondent preparing to file his story simply needs the newspaper's e-mail address. That's it. He then

tions about getting on the Net, they

writes the story using either the email software or by Microsoft \Vord or -$Øord Perfect, or whatever soft-

may contact me

-

^t Stuart Becker

2530-9195.

Siemens Ltd.

Jessica Chan Enquiry : 2564 9333

Direct :2564 9309

Fax

:2856 5004

Pnovrsr0NÀL AtRponr AUTHoß¡rr HoHc Kouc

Manager

Phillip

Media Refations Manager Norma Media Enquiries (24 hours)

Bruce Fung

282477OO

28247705 28247152

Function: Developing Hong Kong's new airpod at Chek Lap Kok

shriro (H.K.) Lfd.

2/F Hutchison House, Central, Hong Kong

Poon

Director Manager

58/F., Central Plaza

PL. 25245031 Managing 2524 5031 Jimmy Senior Services/Produ cts: Sole agent of Nikon cameras, Hasselblad cameras, Linhof cameras and

8 Harbour Road

Wanchai Hong Kong Marketing Communications Manager Monika

Sturm

2583 3307

TFIE \T''HARF (HOLDINGS)LIMITED Rm 1 902-3, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong

Head of Corporate

Manager

Communicalions

f rircnl

SIEMENS 1

Kodak House 1, 321, Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong

Assistant Public Relations Marketing

Public Relations Stephen G Vickers Steven J Einsel Yasmin R Shaker

Co-ordinator

Services:

K0 i,"å1Häi;i;'À'-n"o

I I King's Road, Tailcoo Shing

"rec. travel. asia" in which people post messages asking, for example, which

news groups both for Hong Kong, and the rest of the wodd, on almost any subject.

If FCC members have any ques-

TEI cORRDSP0ilDElfT September 1995

Hong Kong Trade Development Council

Affairs

Nick

Thompson 2844-2139

Services/Products: Property investment and development in Hong Kong and China; terminals and transpotl systems, hotels in Asia and North America; Cable Television and Telecommunications.

Wan

Epson LCD portable TVs

For direct access to the people who can best answer your press questions, please use the contacts in this section.

Entries are free to advertisers making series bookings.

A paid entry is an economical pan of a company's press relation planning. Please contact2S2L 7993 for details.

@ September

1995

THE G0RRXSPONDIIIT

Penny burns with love

ql

q

66\Y/ÂĄen V)' vie. I

you ger ro a cerrarn you teno to say c est la "g., to admit I've been very have

lucky." So said 45-year-old Penny Byrne, summing up the whidwind romance that has swept her offher feet, out of the Hong Kong Tourist Association and off to London.

The man who gave Penny what

she calls "a second chance" is Tim Heald, a 5l-year-oldwriterwho came to town last April to research a book on Hong Kong. "I was told he was

coming, and the HKTA asked

TtrX C0RRf,SPONIIDNT September 1995

if

I

wanted to meet him," says Penny.

"So I said, 'Okay, if I have to'."

Club members tumed out in force to say farewell to lucĂž Penny, one of

the great stalwarts

- 18 years in Hong Kong and many of them as an FCC regular.

So what's so special about Tim Heald, she was asked? "He's very good looking," she replied. "And

he's got

a small, clrte nose . Not a big, professional one like mine."

The masterplan is for them to split their time between London,

where Tim lives, and Adelaide, whe re

Penny's family comes from. In the short term, Penny will be helping with the Hong Kong book, which she describes as "a lan Morris type of thing". It's built around the Governor, Chris Patten, with whom Tim s/ent to Balliol.

After that, there is the Adelaide Festival of Arts next March. That's when the couple plan to buy a house Down Under, so that they will have

two bases.

@ September

1995

THD CORR.ESPONIIEIIT

PLEASE

PATRO N I5 E

THESE

A,dtam of two

lQ' The Village (Indian) Restaurant

For Curry Lovers

A malt

whisky-tasting evening didn't attract the biggest crowd in the history of the

club. But

if it

was short on quantity, it didn't lack quality

-

eitherin tenns of the whisþ

on offer or the imbibers who selflessly volunteered their

A clean break for Mike

services. \ù7hat the camera does not record is if Nick Thompson, fonnerþ business editor of the Morning Post and now corporate affails boss atrü{harf (in blue shirt), actllally clrunkhis or spat

it out, wine-style. It's rumoured Nick has swom not to have another drink

57 Wpdham Street, Baæment, Hons Kons Tel: 2525

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Wines to Catlnay

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Come and.ioin us at one of Ccrrúr.alts favouritc pubs.

!THE ALL NEI'Y!

Ì{O. 1 DavidBell, the formerSwire Group PR, called in with some of the first cru of the wine he is now

rrALrAN RESTAURANT IN HOAIG KO|VG

Opcn¡ng [lout's: I ilD] till 2ant lloildat - S¿tlut'([a\, t\oon - rll¡dnigltl Sunda\.; IlaDp,t, uottt' i -8 pil]

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Hearty English Breadfast served till

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producing in Australia's Hunter Valley. David

Michael Becker and hiswife,Zorica,had

a

gathering athome

for Moscow. Mike, the managing director of !Øella (shampoos and all that), had been in Hong Kong for 14 yearc ancl was a club stalwaft. He and Zotica received a print of the painting of the club premises. to

say farewell to fi'iends before leaving

produces his wines with Peter Mieir, food critic fot tlne Sydnqt Telegrapb-Mír"ror. The verdict of those lucþ enough to get a glass? Absolute rubbish! Qust ioking.) Everybody thought David may, at last, have discovered a skill.

VOTED HONG KONG'S

Life's abeach 2 COURSE SET TUNCH rNcruDrNG coFFEE $r ro

Travellinginthe UK this summer,

David Thurston clropped infor afew pints with Derek and

Sumiko Davies and

son Ken. Living barely half a mile away in Brighton are

Gavin ancl Julie Greenwood and So they all met for a Brighton Beach Parry'.

Note the carefully composed picture, with the photographer's glass of Guinness in the foreground.

their two daughters.

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Michael Becker a.k.a. Mr 'Wella

transaction.

Member since:

1982.

Age:

Not too old to be transferred to Moscow.

Ex M.D.'Wella (Far East), New M.D. Wella (Russia).

The guy who put together the very first German-Chinese joint venture.

Profession

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Sherman.

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