The Correspondent, November 1979

Foreign Correspondentc' Club of Hong Kong

November'79

Round up COVER Former British Conseruative Prime Minister, Mr Harold Macmillan, at

the FCC.

ÐÕæËFì@

Mocmillon Looks of 20th Century.

The Officers: Vicky Wakefield

President:

First Vice Hugh Van Es

President:

Second VÌce

Tim

President:

Rossi

The Staff: Editor: Photogropher:

Advertislng: Designer:

ln

Bruce Maxwell Hugh Van Es Nida Cranbourne Bessie Lee Pui-ling

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n |,

ublished monthlv a¡ an o,g.n of the For;¡gn Cor-

respondents' Club

of

Hong

at 1Sth Floor, Sutherland House, 3 Chater Road, Hong Kong. Tel: 5Kong. Offices

237734 and

5-233003.

Cables: CORCLUB HONG KONG. Address all correspondence

to: Ed¡tor,

Foreign

Club of Hong Kong, 1sth Floor,

Correspondents'

Sutherland House,

3

Chater

Road, Hong Kong. Advertising: Nida Cranbourne, First Floor, 30 lce House St., Hong Kong. Tel: 5-248482.

ro us' vou're

"'"'ilïf,J;'riä:l:

III

Printed by Yee Tin Tong Printing Press, Ltd., South

Ctrina Morning Post Building 4th Floor, Tong Chong Street,

Ouarry Bay, Hong

Tel:

Kong.

5-620161.

ITT Asia Pacifìc, lnc., G.P.O. Box 5349, Hong Kong. Tel: 5-251251

--"---v

Former British Conservative

said somewhat sadly that "all the

Prime Minister, Mr

Harold Macmillan, was guest speaker at

dreams

a packed FCC dinner last month,

proved a delusion".

and the 85-year-old statesman

of his considerable capacity for

He warned of the potential disaster of nuclear war. "Little wars can go on, but still not the

oratory.

great ones, because

wide-ranging speech that philosophically dwelt on life and times in the 20th century, he

danger".

de-

monstrated that he.has lost none

ln a

Nations, the European Economic

in which I have been Community and ASEAN, suggestbrought up to have faith have ing that within them mankind's

it

is too big

a

future strength would lie.

Mr Macmillan, accompanied

by the

Sir

Murray

MacLehose, was visiting Hong Kong privately on his way to China on

behalf

And he praised the formation

Governor,

of his family publishing

company, Macmillan Ltd.

kindergarten headmistress and Albanian laundry lists instead of speech notes

-

Mr Forsyth outlined

part of the "The Devil's Alternative", which he wrote in 44 He stopped mid-way because

he didn't want "to spoil the fun"

of the

rest of his thriller. He

was

after all, on a world-wide trip to

to what was undoubtedly the highlight of his Mr Forsyth

moved

guest appearance

Forsyth ln Focus

ln

-

research

did he have

access

question time.

for his books to confidential

files?

"The short answer is I usually don't", said Mr Forsyth. For mechanical details, such as the power plant in a Soviet fighter, he goes to Jane's fighting books. He tries to back up that informatíon by talking to someone who's actually operated that bit of equipment.

For procedural details, such

Politburo

room, Mr Forsyth turns to an expert, usually a US professor, who's spent a lifetime studying such matters intimately.

Was there such

days.

promote its sales. ln his impeccable BBC voice,

of groupings like NATO, the United

as the decor of the

a thing as

an Odessa organisation? Does it still exist? Does Mr Forsyth ever feel threatened?

"Yes, it does exist", replied Mr Forsyth. "But it's extremely clandestine and denies its own

He spends two or three weeks collating these, reads and re-reads

them seven or eight times and then puts them in neat piles under paperweights spread around his office. "l know that wheat is over there, tankers are over here and the KGB is behind me", he said referring to "Devil's Alternative".

"Then I sit down and write

from 9 am every morning until

I've finished a12-page ration. This

existe nce.

normally takes

"No, l've never been threatened by them. But I got some pretty lousy reviews of "Odessa File" in certain organs not a 100 miles from Munich or Buenos

leave

out for

writing?

"l don't write a word't'il

jottings

technical documents,

and clippings ("one thing use is a tape recorder").

I

never

a

walk or something.

re-read the day's work, usually between 5 and 6 pm, then forget about it.

"The first draft is by

it's usually better than any re-

writes I can do".

Then came the

inevit¿ble

question.

How did Mr Forsyth turn from being a working journalist, gathering facts, to writing the first

Be noticed in Corneliani.

In Italy, men like to dress with flair. They like to be noticed. They know they have good taste, and they expect others to recognise the

fact.

Now, you can buy the best Italy has to offer, Corneliani, exclusively at Borsalino, high up D'Aguilar Street.

Exclusively ltalian.

Exclusively for men.

Frederick Forsyth got a markable non-reception when travelled to

re-

he Moscow researching his

latest thriller, the 175,000-word

Day

of the Jackal,

he's been

a

non-person in Moscow.

This certainly was not

the

with two fingers on his old portable typewriter came across as cool, precisioned and compelling, as

Neither the lntourist roses treatment, nor harassment. Total

case when Mr Forsyth addressed an FCC entertainment luncheon on October 9. The event was booked out within 24 hours and about 200

compellíng as his three internationbest-sellers "lackal", "The Odessa File" and "The Dogs of War".

apathy.

people crammed onto the 1sth

After detailing his fear of public speeches a recurring

"Devil's Alternative".

He later learnt that

since 1973, when a remote Soviet maga-

zine translated and serialized The 4

Floor.

The multi-millionaire author who taps out 4,000 words a day

al

nightmare featuring

his

former

and

large the one that's printed. I find

l've finished researching". By then

the author has noteboo'ks full of

I

"l

Aires".

How does Mr Forsyth do his

till 2 or 3 pm. it was and go

the office as

Central Store: 48-50, D'Aguilar Street, Central District, Hong Kong. '|el: 5-232141/2 New \Yorld Centre:

L-1,59-60 Salisbury Road, Kowloon.

Tel:3-696892 Also open Sundays ll:30 a.m.-7:00 p.m.

pages

Yongtse lncident Recolled

of a novel?

"l don't know. lt seems to be instinctive". Mr Forsyth replied.

"The Jackal was based on a

rumour I heard in Paris that an outside hít-man had been hired to

assassinate de Gaulle. I extrapolated. I followed a mental throw-

forward from what

1o Conlon

I

knew of French secu.rity systems to what I would imagine would be needed to beat them, and slotted various

Éxpedttïon

components together".

And so the questions went on, with Mr Forsyth dealing with them in a quick-thinking, rapidfire manher.

He insisted that he was not in Hong Kong to research anything

and isnlt working on any other book at the minute.

Does Mr Forsyth, ex-Reuters, ex-BBC, miss journalism?

"Yes, many times. But not the salary".

(Loud applause and shouts of "hear hear").

-

Sorah Monks

Policy Slotement

We never thought it could happen. But if it did, we resolved to describe our adventure in the Correspondenf. And it did.

Edie Lederer of the AP and yours truly of UPI were among the journalists invited to take the hovercraft up the Pearl River to Whampoa to see the arrival of the Velma Lykes, the first US-flagship to dock in southern China.

It was supposed to be up-and-back the same day.

had come down to Whampoa to see the ship. As we rode through

lush communes toward the city roads, we wondered whether we would be sleeping on

on potted

park benches that night.

With a great display of confidence (a bluff), we marched into

the trade fair liaison'office in the Tungfang Hotel and demanded rooms. A stone-faced Chinese comrade heard us out and then disappeared behind a screen to discuss his colleagues. lt looked bad, He was not impressed.

Then a second comrade emerged. Some comrades are more

But the day before the it with

junket, we discovered the

Chinese had given us all four-day passports.

Wheels began clicking.

The barriers seemed insurmountable. How do we get from Whampoa to Canton? How do we get hotel rooms in the middle of the Canton Trade Fair, the last

one of which featured

people

sleeping on the streets?

of

Bud Pratt and Mike Chinoy NBC, also aboard the hover-

equal that others. And Edie, who has been taking Mandarin lessons several times a week, tried and succeeded in striking a conversation in Chinese. (We were lucky the

comrade was a northerner.) Soon the atmosphere changed, Edie's

natural charm had worked

again.

couldn't be done.

We were given two rooms in a hotel we didn't think would have any

And they wagered us a meal to that

rooms. The paint was peeling off

craft, said

it

effect.

When we got

to

the walls, but we were grateful.

Coming back to Hong Kong

Hong Kong's Financial Secre-

Whampoa, the first task was separating ourselves from the rest of the group.

Much to our astonishment, when we announced our intention, no

tary, Mr Phillip Haddon-Cave used an FCC address last month to make a major review of Hong Kong's

one said, "No." 'Twas a reflection of the new liberalization in China, particularly in the southern nether

able to enter China through the

prospects.

regions.

from MESSERS. Pratt and Chinoy.

Dinner at Gaddi's.

The address was widely reported by both local media and foreign correspondents

6

p

resent.

Next problem was solved when we conned a ride into Canton with one of the dignitaries who

on the train several days later,

sat looking al the lush

we green

countryside rolling by and shaking our heads, incredulous that we were backdoor.

Now to collect our

-

meal

Bill Holstein

of AP were Americans and lan Moffitt of the South

reunion,

China Morning Post was an Austral-

The heroes of the Yangtse lncident - later the subject of a

book and a film

-

were the guests

of Welwyn Garden City Naval Club

on the 30th

anniversary

of

the

night they broke out from under the Communist guns which had held them captive for 1 00 days.

There to renew friendships among the 73 officers and men

he first met at their moment of glory was Frank Goldsworthy, who retired from the Daily Express in .f anuary, 1977 , after 42 years on

Donald

New

Zealanders,

volu

weekend Training cruise.

An urgent radio signal ordered that I be put ashore on the nearest beach to return to Hong Kong "reference Amethysf escape".

It was the first I knew of the big

Richardson

ian.

Amethyst began her 7/z hour 140 mile dash downriver at 10i12 pm Hong Kong time on aSaturday night. At 4 am on Sunday - only 8 pm in Fleet Street - Admiral Sir Patrick Brind, C-in-C Far East, decided

to

issue

a

Press announce-

ment although Amethyst was still 30 miles from the open sea.

When the Navy rang the three agency offices only Reuters had a night duty clerk. He refered the call, to Monty Parrot's home num-

ber. Monty was roused from his slumbers to be told That Amethyst He writes:Six reporters sailed in the had broken out under heavy fìre cruiser Jomoico to meet the and was racing down the river.

Amethyst off Formosa and we were This windfall scoop seemed too privileged to be on board the good to believe till he phoned back frigate when she received a great the Navy to make sure he had not emotional welcome in Hong Kong. dreamt it!

I think I am the only member At that moment I was fast of that Press party now in Britain. asleep on the deck of a naval Of the others Monty Parrot of tender off the coast of the New Reuters/AAP and Lachie Mac- Territories, having accepted an the paper.

invitation to join local defence nteers on a Ban k Holiday

of the Daily Mail were Vic Kendrick of UP and Wayne ("Pop")

The men who crewed HMS Amethyst when she made world headlines by escaping frofn a Communist trap in the Yangtse in 1949 recently held their first

story I had missed. Fortunately I was saved from total professional

disaster by getting back in time to

'

file copy and sail on

Sunday

afternoon on Jomoica.

We met Amethysf on Monday evening off Formosa and Lachie MacDonald and I made the first

direct contact with the

crew

by crossing over in the whaler taking ships' mail to them.

.

The two ships entered Hong

Kong on

Wednesday morning,

lomaico having cleared 25,000 words of press traffic, including 9,000 on the Monday evening. ln the absence of cameramen, Lachie and I had both been taking pictures and having them printed

on board the cruiser. There

were

then no picture transmission facilities in Hong Kong and there was no plane due to leave for Singapore

til

Friday.

I got a set away to 7

Manila on Wednesday only to learn that evening that the transmitter there had closed down.

Then from "Aircraft Movements" proofs in the South China Morning Post I learned that there was a BOAC plane going to Singapore on Thursday. At the airport I was told this was not

service plane, just an aircrew familiarisation trip, in preparation

a

for the new Argonaut service.

It took hours of early morning pleading before the freight manager agreed

to open a manifest and that

4Gseater airliner with no passengers

and no freight took off with one item on its manifest - my envelope

of four pictures

which cost,

if

I

remember rightly, three Hong Kong

dollars a

for the 1900 miles trip

to

world scoop.

I still

treasure the four ecstatic cables which interrupted

Whitely lnto

my sleep that night. And one of the pictures is the frontispiece of the book Yongtse lncident.

For those wondering

Absent Members By-Law No.4 AbĂŚnt members slrall pay a sub-

the Articles of Association, an absent member, if he so chooses, may pay HK$1000 to become an absent member for an indefinite period of time.

This will of course not affect

HK$150 per annum,

Members.

Starting December 1, 1979 the amended By-Laws Nos. 4 and 5 will go into effect and read as follows

-

scription

of

at the commencement of each twelve months or part of twelve months of their absence. payable

By-Law No. 5

Subject

to

articles 27 and 28 of

present Life Absent

Members who presently pay their

absent membership dues

at

the

start of each year, have the choice

change their status to Life Absent Member, or remain the

to

at the increased dues.

These meĂŚures have bcome necessary because of rising costs

same

over recent years. Present

to

what

former Hong Kong policeman and staunch FCC sup-

happened

fees

don't even cover half the mailing costs of "The Correspondent".

However, with the increase, from

December overseas copies of the Club magazine will be sent by airmail.

porter Graham Whitely, or why the 14th floor bar is generally quieter than it used to be at 1 am, the SCM Post's leading reporter Kevin Sinclair tracked down Graham in

Southern England recently and spent considerable time with him sampling the local brew.

It

seems Graham's original

pub project has been passed up, and he now operates in a security capacity for a holiday camp.

Exclusivel From ltaly.

Your little ones deserve well-tailored fashion just like grown-ups. And now yorlr little "Mastroianni" or "Loren" can wear the finest Italy has to offer. Available exclusively

The Governor, Sir

MurraY

MacLehose, wears an FCC tie at a reception marking the 30th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China on September 30 at the Hong

Kong Convention Centre.

of the Xinhua News

Li Yuhe (in light Xinhua, acting as

Agency, and Mr.

suit), also

of

interpreter. (Xinhua photo)

I

months to young adults

ol

eighteen.

And just arrived, a full range of

Italy's famous "Baby Look" fashion for children.

The

Governor is an Honorary Member of the Club. Seen with Sir MurraY is Mr. Wang Kuang (in dark suit), First Director of the Hong Kong

Branch

at Borsalino [unior.

Beautiful pantsuits, slacks, dresses and accessories. Baby sizes from six

58-62 D'Aguilar Strcet,

Central District. Tel: 5-263955 New World Centre: L-1, 59-60 Salisbury Road. Tel: 3-696892 Also open Sundays I l:30 a.m.-7:00 p '

SeymourJones Locoted \

j

Several members visiting

Colombo recentlY, including the editor, and board member Tim

Street, have tried finding the good doctor in his retirement abode with little success.

The problem basicallY is that

he's up in the hills at a Place called Nuwara EliYa (Pronounced Neuralia), which is not far from Kandy but a Pretty long hike from Colombo.

Derek can, however, occasionally be found, comPlete with local pets but without his trademark sPotted bow tie, as our picture shows.

Indorrcsian Baüfr

for rlomc Itnrríshingi e

High

$dtabl

l'rs'

tableclotlL

Batík

-cushiolls? arld. dresses.

Tel : 5-333378 36, Wyndham SL, G/F', Central' HJL

yoP'TT^t::y game fshing spoF, e ')er of businessmen a surpnsmg numt *stop . __^-, ^_ +L. on thelr over' *fro'ittta",í'to, er,

way to of from SYdneY or Brisbane or wherever.

,l )

r-s¡

AIßillAEt

n rju n pN nL At R Lt N E 0F PAPU 4

t',tEW

9U t N EA

Sydney Journolists'

Condid Comero

Club

Profits

Tim Rossi, Second Vice

Pre-

sident and Hon. Secretary, recentlY visited the Sydney Journalists' Club with a small grouP of Hong Kong press invited on a local airline's 87 47 " f amiliarisation ".

SYdneY, Tim sPent with the Club's time some extra officers studying their operation and comparing it with the FCC' Tim was aPParentlY most interested in the menu and the poker machines, and J ournalists' Club President lan Cox was able

While

in

to supply plenty of

revealing

background.

"The menu

is good and basic,

poker mochines' Tim Rossi tr¡es out one of the Sydney J ournolists' Club president_of Australian the Journaliotched by syd crosland, Federol ists' Associotion, and Tony Rafty, SJC Vice Presìdent'

lots of steaks and seafood", reports Tim. "Not cheaP mind You, but

hearty and reliable, and there

are

few fanciful dishes, unlike our own. The menu is seldom changed.

The wine selection is suPerb.

UnfortunatelY, Tim reckons, it almost imPossible to emulate the SJC's success' FCC would find

"Admittedly, their bar

and

restaurant operations run at a loss.

But the Club makes about

a Year bottom line Profit. SimPle when you can get A$75'000 A$38,000 (HK$213',000)

(HK$420,000) a Year clear Profit

irot

yout poker machines (Pokies) and when You own the building"' lncidentallY, the FCC hæ reciprocity with the Sydney Journalisis' Club (open 24 hours daily)'

I

The moment was historic, but

immediately realized

I

had

a

problem. Premier Hua Guofeng was shaking my hand, but the camera

of the official Xinhua Photographer was not clicking .'. . the

to get his hand

back,

but I

kePt

see?) fírm until the flash reverberated over both of us and I could let him free.

I was really glad to have been there, but two daYs later went Xinhua presented me with the

him firm (do you

flash was dead and recharging.

I had no choice - in mY Poor picture I real'tzed that my problems Mandarin, with Florentine accent, with the historic moment were I started telling him how glad I not over. " . . . . and who is the beardwas to be there in the Great Hall of the People, how glad I was of ed fellow behind? " keePs asking meeting him, how glad I was . . .

the point was not to let him

.

go.

Hua smiled, smiled and tried 12

anyone who has seen the Picture since.

Of course the fellow is Fritjof

Meyer, member of the Der Spiegel delegation headed by my publisher

whom premier Hua received for a private talk before his triP to Europe, but how can I share the h istoric moment with him?

Probably I should ask another

Xinhua photographer, exPert in making people didappear from historic pictures, how to solve the

To

Sydney Journolists' Ctub mnnoger Clem McDonoughan on. þentrã) with SJC President lan Cox (left) looking

lM"tirg tht

Sir Denis Homtlton, The Tlmes

London

choirmon, To victorio lllahefield,

Presldent, Foretgn Correspondents Club Hong'

kong

All members of the Foreign friends Club of Hoãg corrripónã.ntt' Y"ny thanks to Ty -r.r.ril' Corréspondents'Ctub heartily welcome thõ at the Foreign fã"g and of Ho.ngkong for manv happv ;Ñ;: ;;ä -"*â¡tÚ" totuæ vou memories and more to come. lt edition. first the E"g"ily was a close run thing but I had wishes.

Alîgood

problem.

Victoria wakefield, President,

-

Tiziono Terzoni

FCC.

never any doubt good senæ would prevail all round Denis Hamilton, The Time;, London

-

13

Reciprocol R¡ghts

Jazz Business

The FCC

has been checking out and updating its list of clubs around the world with which we have reciprocal agreements. The process is a somewhat lengthy one, but so that members know something at least is happening, here are a few of the letters that have been coming in during the past month.

Montreal Press Club Dear Sir,

This will acknowledge and thank you for your letter of August 29.

The Montreal Press Club will

be pleased to recognize members of The Foreign Correspondents'

are welcome any time - just make sure they present their membershipcard or press-identification.

Our opening hours are Monday thru'saturday from 11 am to

12 pm. (On special occasions

even

longer than midnight).

I might add that we already have friendly relationships with the J ournalist's Club of Sydney,

We have monthly programs have a regular monthly bulletin or newsletter.

However, we will put you on our mailing list for our newsletters as they are mailed to our members.

Our Club serves lunches only and the cocktail lounge is open until

but we do not

7 pm on weekdays.

lf

we can be of any further to you or assist you in any

Australia.

service

Club. As is our custom your members will be expected to have proof of membership and will be served

I hope this brief information will help and I'm looking forward to hearing from you again soon,

to call upon

on a cash basis.

and also will take great pleasure to welcome as many members of your club as possible here on famous

We look forward to playing host to your members and will inform our members of this re-

way in Reno,

please

don't hesitate

us.

The FCC last month organof jazz on a ferry,

James R. Brooke

ized an evening

Chairman of the Board

leaving from the Wanchai ferry pier.

A buffet dinner was prepared

Kurfurstendamm.

the music by Tony

urgen Graf) President (J

Dear Sir,

The door prize,two economy class return tickets to Manila on

Cathay Pacific, was won Club Berlin Dear Mr Sir,

Dear Sir,

privileges.

I

was happy to receive your letter dated August 29th.

We are definitely interested in exchanging privileges of our Clubs.

The Journalisten-club Berlin

e.V, is located at the very finest spot in the heart of Berlin (West), Our adress -242, Kurfurstendamm, 1000 Berlin 15.

room, TV etc.

fixe"

We have

a

monthly 'lour

every second Wednesday of the month and a number of other

social events, which are to be announced from time to time.

Your distinguished members 14

Thank you for your letter of August 27, 1979 regarding reciprocal privileges between our Clubs.

The Reno Press Club Board of Directors have unanimously approved the exchange of reciprocal privileges with your Club.

Mr. Fred Thompson, our current president, has requested that extend a warm invitation to you and the members to visit the Club al any time you are in town or to let us know prior to your arrival if we can be of any service to you I

We occupy one huge floor with a big club-room, a reslaurant, a typical Englísh pub, working

is

The National Press Club of Canada has approximately 800

members, of whom two-thirds are active members (working journal-

ists) and the rest public relations people.

We are located at

150

Wellington Street, across from the

Parliament Buildings and our facilities are open for lunch at noon and our bar is open for members until 1 am except Sunday.

We hold special events during

by

Mr.

J. Schlaepfer.

Although he formed his lazz

Business

only last

February,

Newstead is no newcomer to the jazz scene. Before coming to Hong

Kong his stylish, traditionally inspired yet highly sophisticated trumpet had brought him fame in his native,Australia in concerts, clubs and on records. He has played

with the finest

of

Australian jazz

talent.

Tony has also played in Britain, and in New York he has

shared band stands with such notables as Rex Stewart and Eddie Condon.

Our Club is located at 622 Sierra Street and is open on weekdays between the hours of 1 1

Ludovic Hudon,

His six piece Jazz Business, plus guests, plays on alternate Saturday nights in the members' bar of Hong Kong Arts Centre.

With Tony on the Foreign Correspondents' Club boat parfy

am and 7 pm.

President.

were

in finding accommodations.

N.

His warm and relaxed tenor sax

Newsteadts

J

This is to acknowledge receipt of your letter of August 28, 1979 concerning exchange

Reno Press Club

-

plays in television studios by day and likes to play jazz by nighf.

azz Business.

National Press Club Ottawa

Secretary

Journalisten

Nito Esquerra (tenor saxophone and clarinet). One of Hong Kong's businest professionals, Nito

by the Club and members enjoyed

ciprocal arrangement.

Dave E. Todd

John Schloepfer wins a return trip to Manila wÌth Cathoy Pqcific.

the year and any member of your

Club would be welcome, upon showing valid membership card.

ctown pac¡fic profess¡onal household packing conta¡ner¡zat¡on.docu mentat¡on door-to-door seruice.insurance free estimates

Tel: 5-778026

15

Wines for the Hol¡doy

by FCC Monager Mike Winslow With the holiday season most upon

TOI\IY NEIA/STEAEIS

time to start planning for those vast amounts of food soon to be consumed and what wines to drink.

Writing about what wines to serve with the holiday meals would be much simpler if all I had to worry about was "what wine with roast turkey". But tastes seem to be more eclectic and wide ranging these days and now I must consider

TAZZ BUSINESS is presented by Or¡ent Jazz PO BoÁ

20333 Hennessy Bd.Wan Tel: H-738686

Chai, HK

Tony Newsteod's Jozz Business.

strongly featured

in the TonY

Carpio Big Band, recently heard at the Excelsior Hotel.

Tim Mills (trombone). A frequent guest with Jazz Business, Tim's highly personal stYle ís heard regularly with the Victoria Jazz Band at the Go-Down Restaurant.

Freddy Abraham (piano). An elder statesman of Hong Kongjazz, Freddy is an eloquent piano soloist

alus, perhaps now is the

not only turkey but duck, and

a popular

mainstay

of

Jazz

Business.

Chris Hilton (bass). One of Hong Kong's most ralented jazz musicians and another Jazz Business regular, Chris' big-toned double bæs is in demand in Hong Kong jazz circles.

Keith Vitti (drums). A dependable and rhythmic drummer, Keith is also a regular with the Victoria Jazz Band of Go-Down fame.

goose

and chicken and roast loin of pork,

rack of lamb and prime ribs of beef as well, to mention a few.

Let's talk about some of the

general considerations involved in matching wine with food and then

and

move

whelmed and completely lost by

to

some specific recommendations. There are not many basic rules.

It

is not difficult to get any

number of charts from books and magazines that

will, in great detail

and with fine precision, list exactly the wine or wine type for each fish or meat dish. For example - rose

with ham, white burgundy with fish, red burgundy with beef, etc.

Some will even narrow it down to the variety or vineyard or vintage.

These lists would be absolute-

if you're ly correct except . serving a fish dish like sole a la

Bourguignonne, which means poaching the fish in red wine and coating the cooked filet with a sauce made by reducing the cooking liquor . . . . the best wine would be a red Burgundy, perhaps the same wine that was used in the poaching.

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16

Former FCC President

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Chambertin ôr Pommard, with sole poached in a light, fruity Moælle wine or with fish served with a delicate champagne sauce would mean that the delicacy of the sauce

of the fish

would be over-

the rich, full wine.

On the other hand, if you to serve the same fillet of sole "lndienne", that is, with a curry

were

sauce and you used your curry with a heavy hand so that the sauce vr'as

bitey . there might be no wine existing that could stand up to it and nothing could equal lots of very cold beer

very spicy and

or ale

as a

companion drink.

Where the charts and lists falter and are too dogmatic is mainly in the area of the foods that theY say must be served with white wines. Depending upon how they

are cooked, pork and veal are meats that can be enjoyed with almost any wine. Lamb is a meat

that usually is best served with red wine. ln our home, however, we have a dish, Noisettes Soubise,

which is the sauteed, boneless rounds of lamb loin served with a creamed-onion sauce. This is a dish that could be enjoyed with either a quite full red or rich, white

wine such as a Pinot Blanc of California or a Chablis of France.

The flesh of salmon has

of the Year Awqrd lqst

enough depth of flavor to handle many red wines and yet is not so coarse that a white wine would be lost. Lighter red wines (referring to flavor depth, not to amount of

alcohol) would go well such

as

Yugoslavian Red Cabernet, ltalian Barbaresco or Bardolino, French Beaujolais or California Pinot Noir.

Obviously the rules expressed

in the charts are not without validity. They represent an accumulation of experience of what normally goes well with what. The most usual way of preparing light, white-meated fish such as sole or pike is with light seasoning . . sauteed with butter and lemon . . .

. .

in a white wine court bouillon ... served with acream sauce so that a light white poached

wine makes sense.

Beef and lamb are usually cooked with more spiciness, the meat itself has more fat, a more pronounced flavor, is richer and heartier in itself. There a wine with a more pronounced, more lingering, heavier flavor is suggested. . . . fullbodied red wines. Red Burgundies from the Cote de Beaune; the full reds

of the

Rhone Valley; the rich 17

breed: Grignolino of Beaujolais

of

ltaly,

France or California'

The rose wines are all right, but select one that is not too sweet íuch as an Anjou.

Rack of Lamb: Calls

for

a heartY,

a Barbera full-bodied wine or California of Charbono or Italy; an ltalian Chianti; a Cabernet of California; BurgundY

Sauvignon

or Bordeaux of France' Particularly good are the Rhone ValleY wines Chateauneuf du PaPe, Cotes du

I 1

,

Rhone, Hermitage.

Roast Beef: Whether a sirloin or

a

prime rib, the red meat comPleFCCPresidentVickyWokefietddiscusseshowtheClubmonogedto

scoles over such ougust establishments ond Hugos.

tip the

Pomerols and St. Emilions and St. Estephes of Bordeaux; the Cabernet

Sauvignons of California all fit in.

Ham, veal and Pork each have flavor and texture characteristics

that allow them to fit with either red or white wines; for this reason they interact well with roses which are themselves "in-between"'

So an additional rule to that the type of food - the stYle or

of mode of cooking the food will often govern the choice of wine more than the food'stuff itself' lf the manner of cooking is

important to the selection of wines, it follows that what you're looking for is a balance in which neither the food or wine dominates; each element should enhance the other'

The wine should make the

dish taste better and vice versa. This can be done with a wine that is comPlementary (a slightlY sweet Moselle with a rich quíche) or that is in contrast (a comPletelY drY and

Meursalt that will richness of creani sauce)'

tart

cut the

Specific Recommendations Roast TurkeY: Here is a case in I go contrary to the charts of "White wine with PoultrY"' The reason is that when we make and

stuffed with a rich dressing, the whole holidaY dinner tends to be 18

bodied red wine Sauvignon

from

I

serve a fulla Cabernet California, a good

rich. ConsequentlY

.

chateau from Bordeaux or a red Burgundy such as Bonnes Mares or a Chambertin. Most stuffings are all rich enough to support a red wine.

anything good

in this categorY.

Perfect Finale

most lovelY waY to finish . . . or to Provide an interlude before the dessert is served . . . , is fresh fruit such as aPPles or either a pears with cheese "bleu" type (Stilton, Roquefort,

A

dinner .

Gorgonzola, Danableu or Wisconsin

Blue) or a soft, creamy one (Camembert, Brie). This is the perfect time to finish the wine left over from the main course, if a demand and the reciPe together red. white wine. The lemon juice with it is a red, or to introduce a much how amazed often I am the avocado slices and the orange drinking segments lighten the entire dish more the wine I have been a difwith reveals meal the with Sugone' rich is a even though it gested white wines are: First, ferent foil to show it off; at how

Cornish Game Hen: With avocado and orange slices this is an example of a bird where both the lightflesh

the Rieslings such

as Johannesberg,

or the fruitY Moselles or Rhine wines from GermanY' Second:

beautifully theY blend together; how well the cheese and fruit remain on the Palate as delicious

entities unsubmerged even bY the fullest of wines. When I Plan such Finally, a grouP of crisPer and a course I allow for more red wine condryer wines that include Chablis' than I would exPect to be entree. the with sumed of Fuisse PouillY or Meursault Whatever 'Your choices the France. A sPitted squab would are few - good sense is the rules do well with these choices. guide.

A good dish deserves best Pork Stuffed Pork or Roast Loin of Chop: This is a good examPle of a good wine regardless of the tYPe ¡eats that are comPatible with you select. Edouard Kressman,

Gewurztraminer or Traminer from either Alsace-Lorraine or California.

wine writer and merchant of Bordeaux says "l think it preferable wines white The well. as with rose "sole should be the fuller bodied whites to drink with a beautiful good red wine very a meuniere" such as the white Burgundies of the Since . . " . white. bad a than counterFrance or their California

either red or white, and therefore

which

our turkey, rubbed with herbs

at the Mondorin Grill

ments almost anY heartY red wine a full BurgundY or claret, or Chianti orZinfandel ...' almost

Pinot ChardonnaY or parts White Pinot. The reds I suggest aÍe among the lighter or their

holiday dinner is a festive time it is also a time to sPlurge on Your wines

and to enjoY every mouthful.

The

ttatians ProbablY sPend

more time eating, drinking and just generallY enjoYing life than any other EuroPean nationality. Once You've had a taste of authentic Italian food it's easy to see whY. Thanks to Vini e Salumi o o (delicatessen ltaliano) you don't T o have to go all the waY to ltaly to DAguilo.l find out. Because they have brought the real taste of Italy to Hong Kong.

QUæN,s Rd Forty-seven different wines and just about the largest selection of cËeese, salami, parma ham, olives and nuts this side of ñ;1.- ilp UV fòt fiee *ine tasting daily (during normal business hours) or take advantage C

of our special weekend take-away menu '

TheReallasteof ltalYD'Aguilar Street' Next to Borsalino Junior' p'm' Monday - Saturday: 9:00 a'm. to 7:00 p.m. Sundays: 8'30 a'm' - l:00

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